Camino de Santiago de Compostela

[LTfit]

Hi All,

Here is a personal review of muncipal/parish auberges I slept in this July. Only stayed in 1 private and that was in SJPdP. If someone wants to know km. per day would be glad to give details separately.

FYI my strategy along the Camino was what I now call "walk and see" (where/when to stop). I brought Walking the Camino de Santiago by Pili Pala Press and had information sheets given to me in St. Jean when I received my Pilgrim's Passport. The schedule I had made prior to leaving was thrown out on day 2 as I was able to walk farther/faster than anticipated.


SJPdP: Friday July 2 (night prior to starting)
L'Esprit du Chemin: Warm, charming 1600's Basque auberge run by 2 Dutch. They were on vacation but was well received by 2 other Dutch hospitaleros. Communal dinner, lodging and breakfast for E20,- . Most expensive of whole trip but well worth the money. Special atmosphere and a wonderful way to start the Camino.

July 3 Day 1 Roncesvalles E6,- HUGE, 1 room with bunk beds (120). No cooking facilities. Internet. If want to eat at one of 2 restaurants need to reserve (2 sittings). Went to Pilgrim's mass instead. Overflow housed in separate portocabins but not needed the night I was there. No stores/shopping.

July 4 Day 2 Pamplona Municipal Auberge Jose y Maria E6,- (incl sheet+pillow case). Very modern, free washing machine, dryer E1,-. 2 floors with bunkbeds (cubicles with 3 sets of bunkbeds) but not so overwhelming as in Roncesvalles. Modern kitchen facility.
Loved Pamplona- visited city with group of Irish "bunkmats" enjoying tapas and cider. Next day closed for San Fermín.

July 5 Day 3 Estella Municipal Auberge E6,- (incl breakfast). Liked auberge due to cozy, sunny courtyard. Washing facilities good, kitchen too. Internet. 2 rooms with bunkbeds. Bit crowded but was pleased to get last bed as walked all day. Stores/shopping available.

July 6 Day 4 Viana Parroquial Auberge*** Donativo - I gave E10,- because want to make sure such auberges stay in business. (Communal dinner/wine, lodging+breakfast) My first experience at a Parish Auberge and if I had my choice would ONLY stay at these auberges. Unfortunately too few along the Camino. Lovely town and auberge in church in the Plaza. Prepare dinner and eat together. Wonderful and much more intimate than municipal auberges. Francisco, the Italian hospitalero was great. Small, 2 rooms with thin mattresses on floor. Pilgrim's mass at 8 p.m. VERY PERSONAL - priest talked to each Pelegrino/a individually and 1 by 1 blessed us by sprinkling water on our heads then placed hand on head. Even if you are not religious, was quite a moving experience. Stores/shopping available.

July 7 Day 5 Nájera Municipal Donativo - gave only E2,-. Not very pleased with this auberge. Adequate but dirty. Lights out not enforced (Germany-Spain football game) - kind of crazy and loud. Kitchen and washing facilities small and cramped. Internet. Large town, good if need supplies or sports equipment.

July 8 Day 6 Grañon Parish Hospital de Pelegrinos Donativo***Gave E10,- for same reason as stated under Viana.(Communal dinner/wine, lodging+breakfast). What a FANTASTIC PLACE! 2 floors with thin mats on floor, cozy and intimate living/dining area with fireplace. Washing facility in bell tower! Due to heat, slept in 1st floor. Also option to sleep in church if too warm. 3 Hospitaleros and Luis, a Franciscan Monk took wonderful care of us. Also relearned how to use a Perron! Vesper/singing/prayer with candles before lights out. Cute little town.

July 9 Day 7 Villafranca Montes de Oca E6,- WORST MUNICPAL EXPERIENCED - AVOID!!!
Got lost this morning and added 1h45 min to walk so didn't make it to San Juan de Ortega. What an awful place! Situated on a very busy throughfare. You take your life in your own hands by crossing the street as trucks zoom by. VERY STERILE, very limited cooking/washing facilities. Internet. Had a feeling that place open for money only although few stopped here (I now know why). No store but limited supplies at 1 bar.

July 10 Day 8 Burgos Municipal E4,- Extremely modern/clean with elevators! Light sensors. Many different dormitories with separate sleeping areas. Internet. Washing and kitchen area. Surprised in the a.m. that door only opened at 6. Behind Cathedral so great location but...it was Saturday night and there were 3 weddings...people out in the streets partying ALL NIGHT/MORNING so slept poorly. Otherwise LOVED Burgos but TAKE THE RIO ROUTE INTO BURGOS!!! Those that didn't had a different opinion of Burgos.

July 11 Day 9 Castrojeriz Donativo San Esteban (incl breakfast) E2,50 as I had run out of money. One large room with bunkbeds and separate mattresses on the floor. Very simple but adequate. I am not a football fan but that evening I enjoyed watching Spain-Holland at the one and only open cafe with fellow pelegrinos/as and locals. Was a Sunday and nothing else was open. Ran out of supplies...

July 12 Day 10 Carrión de los Condes Iglesia de Santa Maria auberge run by nuns E4,-. Lovely, fairly large town with riverside and plazas. Auberge fine but was also suprised here that doors didn't open up in the a.m. until 6. Kitchen and washing facilities.

July 13 Day 11 Sahagún E4,- Cluny municipal. Large pleasant building. Internet. Washing and cooking basic but o.k. Lots of stores/shopping if needed.

July 14 Day 12 León Municipal E4,- 2nd Worst on my list! 8 to a room. Cold water showers. Must say that my opinion is also clowded by HORRIBLE entry into León. That in itself turned me off to Leon. Unlike Burgos, no alternative route. Municipal about 20 min walk from Cathedral, looked from the outside like a prison...adequate inside. Actually didn't go to the Monasterio de las Benedictinas as someone from the forum gave it the axe...later heard that it was nice. So you see opinions vary.

July 15 Day 13 Hospital de Orbigo Parish Karl Leisner but not donativo E5,- Quaint, small but lovely courtyard and backyard where you can sit out and rest/hang clothes. Little kitchen but cozy. Crazy Spanish hospitalero that the time.

Didn't stay in Astorga but what a lovely town/city!!!
July 16 Day 14 Foncebadón Parroquial Donativo Domus Dei (Communal dinner+breakfast). Left E6. Very friendly Spanish couple were Hospitaleros. Food was not fresh auberges - lots of canned goods due to mountain location I guess but warm and communal. Very basic, limited facilities and as no more beds available when arrived I slept in "chapel" on mat on floor. Luckily there were blankets as it became quite cold in the night up that high! Even given the above would stay here again because of friendly atmosphere and in the a.m. arrived at the Cruz de Ferro when the sun came up.

July 17 Day 15 Cacabelos MunicipaE5,- Cute town (Auberge on outskirts on the way out - thought that I would never reach it!). Internet free. Interesting construction: 2 person "rooms" around inside church. No kitchen, washing facilities outside. Slept alone and best night's sleep on entire Camino.

July 18 Day 16 O Cebreiro E0,- The circus began once entered Galicia. Was a Sunday and O Cebreiro packed. Muncipal full as of 2 p.m. and people slept outside whereever possible.
I slept with 8 others in entrance way Church on cardboard box and mat...Muncipal was charging E5,- to use shower facilities which I refused.
Red Cross available for blister care. Given no shower facility took advantage of this service to clean/care for feet.

July 19 Day 17 Sarria E0,- Long story but short version is that I was snuck into Muncipal by a group of Spanish and slept on their mat on floor...hot and crowded but it was that or sleep in a gym which I heard opened up later on. Could wash clothes and took a shower. Very small kitchen with cooking facilities. Internet free on a bizarre keyboard.
Red Cross also available here.

July 20 Day 18 Os Chacotes (1 km before Pallas de Rei) E5,- Municipal was full as were ALL auberges - municipal or private - within a 20 km radius. Got talking to a Spanish woman from Galicia and she managed to get us a mattress on the floor of a building across from the Municipal (her name was Maria...). Others not so fortunate slept outside, on the streets of Pallas de Rei,etc.
This day was probably the most busy/crowded of all the Camino. Many were walking with little backpacks or none at all. I also saw numerous taxis/buses with "pelegrinos". Red Cross personnel told me that they saw people being dropped off at 10 a.m. in taxi's to reserve a room and get a stamp!
Red Cross also here.

July 21 Day 19 Pedrouzo/Arca E2,- slept in a run-down gym on floor. I had no mat but a Frenchman who had one of the limited supply of mattresses gave me his mat. Emergency situation, probably no need to use this facility in the future. WORST NIGHT OF ALL, couldn't sleep on hard floor so got up in the middle of the night and walked to Santiago. Actually pretty amazing arriving alone, in peace, just when the sun was coming up. Downside was that I kept falling asleep during the Pilgrim's Mass!

July 22 Day 20 Santiago Seminario Menor E12,- Huge place with separate dormitorios but luckily separate beds with lockers (good for backpack when visiting Santiago). Used washing machine and dryer for the first time here. Decided to finally get everything really clean. Kitchen facility and "store" in the basement.

Soooooo glad walked on to Finisterre - what a wonderful (and peaceful) way to end the Camino, especially given the craziness in Galicia in the days before July 25th.

July 23 Day 21 Vilaserio Village bar with auberge will discourge you "oh, it's awful!" but stayed at abandoned old school house. No hospitalero or place to leave money. Slept on thin mats but hot shower! E0,- When arrived a young Brazilian woman was there and later a group of 8 German bikers came in otherwise had the place to ourselves. Splurged and had 2 glasses of local wine and a racion of queso at the local (and only) bar.

July 24 Day 22 Corcurbión Donativo San Roque (Communal dinner/wine+breakfast). Can't remember how much I left. It was a LONG uphill walk to get to the auberge-thought would never find it as it is actually out of town. Spanish hospitalero Simon said that few stop here as most have their mind set on reaching Finisterre. Enjoyed opportunity to make meal together for last time on the Camino. Washing outside, small room with bunkbeds. Only about 15 of us there that night.

July 25 Day 23 Finisterre Provisional Municipal Auberge in Port E5,- (and for those interested they give out own "compostela"(for those walking from Santiago-Finisterre). Bunkbeds, no kitchen facilities, showers outside in porto cabins but bathroom/toilets inside. Sheets/pillow case included.
Keep in mind can only stay one night but there are many private auberges in Finisterre. Took a walk up to the light house (and 0,00 km marker!!!) when I arrived and again later that evening to see the sunset and moon rise.

If I were to walk the Francés again I would most definately stay in all of the above EXCEPT for municipal in León and Villefranca Montes de Oca.

Review is based on my personal experience. Keep in mind that it was a Holy Year and in July so it was VERY BUSY from Sarria onwards.

Cheers,
LT

[Timid]

Thank you, thank you, thank you.
So very helpful and have written everything down!

[PilgrimChris]

Dear LT

TThank you for your very informative post.

The two points that interested me most were
.1 The donation albergues you described and
2 The time it took you to walk your route.

I would like to accept your kind offer of knowing the distances you walked each day though i can use google maps if you dont have the time

I am allowing myself approximately 40 days to walk from Lourdes in France to Finisterre so that i can stay longer in places that interest me if i wish. As i will be camping mainly so the one night rule and possible full house situations in the albergues wont apply however should i wish a change i would prefer to stay in donation only albergues.

Many thanks again for your post.
God bless you and my warmest regards.
Chris
O

[annakappa]

Dear LT

however should i wish a change i would prefer to stay in donation only albergues.
Chris
O

I''m going to open this can of worms again Chris! And I'm going to be sarcastic too! I did my 2 week service in a "donation" albergue this September and frankly speaking "donativo doesn't mean free". These places rely on the donations to keep them working (and I can assure you there are lots of overheads involved). If everyone went there and dropped an euro or two in the donation box, then the place would soon be in disrepair. Obviously MOST pilgrims are generous, thank goodness. I personally think that a donation should be at least 5 euro per person - if not more! Anne

[annakappa]

Sorry Chris - reading my message again, it seems that I'm directing this message you - not the case - what I was intending to mention is the fact that frankly the "donation places" need all the help that they can get as far as money is concerned! Anne

[RENSHAW]

I personally think that a donation should be at least 5 euro per person - if not more! Anne

Yup Anna , Albergues cost a fortune to run even with the Hospitalero Volunatario supplying free Caretaking , cooking and cleaning. But here is the thing , Should Chris stay at home( I'm not being sarcastic , promise) Or should he continue and give what he can.
Perhaps at a later stage Chris will be in a position to post some money to the Albergues that he felt deserved more than he could give at the time. We should have a link from this site where Pilgims can make donations to Albergues ; Like the 'Justgiving ' Charity site.
Just trying to stop those worms getting out of the can. I Know this is concern and not a direct go at Chris

[sillydoll]

The hardest lesson we learn when doing the hospitaleros training course is that the donation box is not our business and not our concern.
This is hard to accept when you clean up after pilgrims, scrubbing the toilets, mopping the floors, making the beds, cooking supper, preparing breakfast - adding flowers to the dining table, paying for incense, biscuits, extra odds and ends out of your own pocket. It is natural to want or expect something in return, if not gratitude, a few euro would be nice! But, we cannot measure our success by the amount left in the donation box!
HOSVOL says, "we work for nothing in places where pilgrims might pay nothing" and we must never judge pilgrims by the amount they leave in the box. And, we must NEVER set a price or suggest a donation amount - no matter what we think a suitable amount is.

[RENSHAW]

HOSVOL says, "we work for nothing in places where pilgrims might pay nothing" and we must never judge pilgrims by the amount they leave in the box. And, we must NEVER set a price or suggest a donation amount - no matter what we think a suitable amount is.

We must keep this value for all pilgrims to come , Just like 'Turning the other cheek' or 'Love thy Nieghbour'.
The concept of the donativo albergues is UNIQUE!! - my test will come when I volunteer to be Hospitalero next year and I'm sure I will be biting my lip from time to time.
Thanx for the reminder Sil - we should never judge , again I am having no go at you Anna.

[PilgrimChris]

Well!

Thank you all for you varied comments. I do so love my fellow brothers and sisters in this great pilgrimage of life
And i surely am not being sarcastic.

There was really no need to open a 'can of worms' at all unless you felt the need and that is ones right of course. I would only add that maybe it would be a wiser course to first seek my/ones intent for only using refugios that only ask for a donation to avoid 'second guessing' my/their intent. That is only my opinion and only made in light of comments made in response to my own post earlier.

To clarify the point and thus hopefully 'close' said can of worms lol. To set this in context, as i already mentioned i am mainly camping on my pilgrimage. As the underlying tone since my post has become financal let me add that this preference has nothing to do with money. I walk. I camp. Its what i like to do. Now to the crux so to speak.
I only wish to use donation only refugios (should i require a change as i mentioned) because i prefer to support purely charitable organisations wherever possible. The amount i give is between me and the charity i choose to support. The key word for those who maybe like to read their own interpratations into others posts is "support".
In an ideal world we would all be in a financial position to pay a fair wage for a fair commodity/service etc. However as there are many people in the world unable to do so (usually at no fault of their own) charities are set up to help those less fortunate than others so they too can experience at least some of the things others take for granted.

Those who might take advantage of charitable institutions should be prayed for not judged. Unless of course the one who judges is without any faults of their own.

God continue to bless those who so give and those who so receive and soften the hearts of those of us who sometimes set ourselves in judgement of our brothers and sisters.

I re-read my post and although could see nothing that would do so i offer my sincere and unreserved apologies for the negative feelings it seemed to have caused some to experience.

God bless and keep us all happy and in friendship.
Chris

[dutchpilgrim]

But, we cannot measure our success by the amount left in the donation box!
HOSVOL says, "we work for nothing in places where pilgrims might pay nothing" and we must never judge pilgrims by the amount they leave in the box. And, we must NEVER set a price or suggest a donation amount - no matter what we think a suitable amount is.

I was sincerely touched by the note at the donation-box in Granon: "Leave behind whatever you can afford, take however much you might need"
And seeing the donation-box being filled; the hug from the hospitalera on the moment of departure: "Thank you for your presence in the albergue in Granon", such sweet memories...

Ultreya,
Carli Di Bortolo

[LTfit]

The two points that interested me most were
.1 The donation albergues you described and
2 The time it took you to walk your route.

I would like to accept your kind offer of knowing the distances you walked each day though i can use google maps if you dont have the time

Dear Chris,

Sorry that I didn't answer sooner but I am trying to keep my forum addiction at bay haha!
It looks like your posting has sparked a discussion - that is positive. If I may, will sum up as follows:
1) Donativo does not mean free and
2) Give generously if you can so that others may enjoy wonderful parish auberges such as those in Viana and Grañon.

Back to your question. Here are my details:
Day 1: SJPdP - Roncevaux (Roncesvalles) 27 km
Day 2: Roncevalles- Pamplona 42,5
Day 3: Pamplona-Estella 46,2
Day 4: Estella-Viana 40,4
Day 5: Viana- Nájera 42,4
Day 6: Nájera-Grañon 27,3
Day 7: Grañon-Villafranca Montes de Oca 28,4 (got lost+9=37,4)
Day 8: Villafranca-Burgos 39,6 (=/- river route so may be different)
Day 9: Burgos-Castrojeriz 40,3
Day 10:Castrojeriz-Carrión de los Contes 44
Day 11:Carrión-Sahagún 37
Day 12:Sahagún-León 51
Day 13:León-Hospital de Orbigo 36,4
Day 14:Hospital-Foncebadón 42
Day 15:Foncebadón-Cacabelos 42,9
Day 16:Cacabelos-O Cebreiro 37,7
Day 17:O Cebreiro-Sarria 44,9
Day 18:Sarria-Os Chacotes 45,1
Day 19:Os Chacotes-Arca/Pedrouzo 48,5
Day 20:Pedrouzo-Santiago 20,3
Day 21:Santiago-Vilaserio 34
Day 22:Vilaserio-Corcubión 45
Day 23:Corcubión-Finisterre 12 (July 25th)

So there you have it. Given my limited vacation schedule I never expected to make it to Santiago. Before leaving I calculated that I would reach somewhere between León and Ponferrada but as you see things turned out differently and I am very grateful for that.

Most mornings I was up by 5 a.m. and out the door by 5.30 (no alarm needed). I stopped about 2 times to eat and/or drink before reaching the auberge by early to mid afternoon. Most nights I was in bed by 9.30/10.00.

Let me know if I can be of any further help.
Best of luck in your preparations.
Cheers,
LT

[RENSHAW]

Jeppers LT - those distances - Pheeeeww
Did you pull the drag-chute cord at Finesterre to stop you from tearing into the sea?
You must have been SUPERFIT?
I enjoy all reports and reviews , yours was great with plenty of info for both the novice and seasoned pilgrim.
Thanx for the effort - I had very similar experiences at the Albergues you mentionened.

[PilgrimChris]

Hi JT

Many thanks for posting the daily distances you walked. This helps those of us who are unfamiliar with the area gain some sense of timings and distances which we can compare our own walking abilities with.
As previously mentioned you must indeed be fit lol.

As for your summary of points i think i made it clear my position on donations now lol. True donation does not mean free, it does mean to offer what one can afford and if, for some that is nothing then that too is acceptable. It is for those people who cannot afford to give much if anything that i choose to stay in donation only refugios. It is the difference between a fully charitable organisation and those that make a charge (no matter how small). I would hope my own views on this were made clear in my last post lol. I like to stay in donation only refugios so i can SUPPORT these particular charitable accomodations. Please i personally need no more reminders what charity and donation means lol. To many of us it is a way of life.

Again my thanks for answering actual question and may God bless up all.

Chris

[LTfit]

To tell you the truth RENSHAW, I would have continued on after Finisterre if it weren't for a little problem

I must say that I surprised myself as I had not planned on walking those kinds of distances. But it worked for me and a handful of fellow pilgrims that I saw from time to time throughout the Camino. The advantage is that I spent the greater part of the day walking alone - in contemplation and in awe of my surroundings.

Was I super fit? Wouldn't say so. Determined? Yes. Maybe also a bit nuts. All and all not bad for a 54 year old woman!

PilgrimChris - I believe you misunderstood my comments - they were not addressed to you but to the general forum population. You made your position quite clear. It is/was not my intention to judge you or how you plan to complete your Camino. Sorry if you took my comments to heart!

I hope to return this July to walk the Via de la Plata. Anyone want to join me? Don't worry, I might take it slower
Cheers,
LT

[sillydoll]

LT - you are my hero! I walked the camino from Roncesvalles in 27 days in 2002 when I was 55. We were actually following Nancy Frey's 28 Camino stages in the Lonely Planet guide but on two days we walked much further so ended up in Santiago a day early. (In 2007 I walked it again in 37 days and that felt like cruising!)

[PilgrimChris]

Sorry Chris - reading my message again, it seems that I'm directing this message you - not the case Anne

Dear Anne

Certainly no apology is needed as i too didn't make my own position clear

However i AM humbled by your sentiment and believe me when i say i have no negative feelings towards anyone who has kindly responded to my posts

This is a wonderful forum and i am learning so much from everyone who contributes and am sincerly grateful to you all.

PilgrimChris - I believe you misunderstood my comments - they were not addressed to you but to the general forum population. You made your position quite clear. It is/was not my intention to judge you or how you plan to complete your Camino. Sorry if you took my comments to heart!
LT

Dear LT

As you addressed your post to "Dear Chris" in response to my own post to you i naturally assumed your comments WERE addressed to me

However please be assured i didnt take your comments "to heart", i merely replied to clarify your address.

Again many thanks for the information you have shared.

Gods peace be upon us all.

Chris

[falcon269]

Two German soldiers roared past me in Hontanas walking at least 12 hours a day intending to cover 50-60 km per day. They weren't my heroes, but I certainly was in awe of their physical accomplishment. If I were capable of such a feat, I might want to do it, too, so I certainly would not belittle it. I would just hope I did it for myself and not to impress someone else.

[LTfit]

Glad to supply the details.
For obvious reasons didn't originally quote the km. How one walked in the past is no guarantee for the future. And what works for one may be torture for another.
How far to walk per day? Rest days or not? It is all so personal and you never really know how your body will stand up to the rigors of the Camino until you do it.
Cheers,
LT

[RENSHAW]

Hey LT - were you being chased?

[Lydia Gillen]

I walked from Roncesvalles to Santiago spread over four trips from 2007 to2009. I loved staying in Parroquial alberge and would always choose one if possible. I loved the atmosphere of christian community, the shared meal and the prayertime afterwards for those of us who wanted it. I hope to walk the camino again in2011and look forward so much to staying at Granon and Tosantos.

[RENSHAW]

I loved staying in Parroquial alberge ........... I hope to walk the camino again in2011and look forward so much to staying at Granon and Tosantos.

It is amazing how different we all are and what levels of spirituality each Pilgim achieves , I have heard people say that they would NEVER overnight at one of these Albergues 'Because you have to sleep on a mat on the floor' ..... They have no idea what they are missing .... some people can walk whole Camino and yet never find 'The Way'

[Sojourner47]

Hi LT - I've just caught up with this thread - your itinerary was most informative, and your daily distances quite staggering ( I'd certainly be staggering if I attempted anything like that mileage!)
My question - what did you carry - how much weight, and what footwear did you use?
I have a theory, backed up by some practical walking, that an ultralight pack (less than 5 kg) plus light running/training shoes (plus plenty of practice) can allow one to cover 40 - 50 kms a day.
I haven't done the camino yet, so any comments from all you experienced pilgrims would be most welcome

[Caminando]

Hi LT - I've just caught up with this thread - your itinerary was most informative, and your daily distances quite staggering ( I'd certainly be staggering if I attempted anything like that mileage!)
My question - what did you carry - how much weight, and what footwear did you use?
I have a theory, backed up by some practical walking, that an ultralight pack (less than 5 kg) plus light running/training shoes (plus plenty of practice) can allow one to cover 40 - 50 kms a day.
I haven't done the camino yet, so any comments from all you experienced pilgrims would be most welcome

Hi S
I hope the camino isn't a race for you....

[falcon269]

Some have found a race very fulfilling. Have fun!

[LTfit]

Hi Sojourner47,

This is a first - I am going to quote myself:

For obvious reasons didn't originally quote the km. How one walked in the past is no guarantee for the future. And what works for one may be torture for another.
How far to walk per day? Rest days or not? It is all so personal and you never really know how your body will stand up to the rigors of the Camino until you do it.

This also applies to equipment. What worked for me is no guarantee for another. But that is not what you asked. I used an Osprey 35 L backpack (1200 gr.). Total weight was 6 kilos without water (used 2 0.75 L plastic bottles).



I started off with a pair of Merrill walking shoes. By the time I got to Lyon I sent them home and bought a new pair at El Corte Inglés 1 size larger. Due to the heat and long distances my feet would swell and I needed the extra room. I would never walk in running shoes as the bottom of my feet are very sensitive and I feel every pebble, stone and rock.

Again personal but I did not do much training. Over a period of a few week-ends I walked up to 7 hrs per day (without pack). After the first day's walk my hips are quite stiff but this subsides the following day. Due to this experience I made sure that I made a long walk of about 6 hours in the week before I left. That way I had no problems crossing the pyrenees the first day.

It was never a race. For me.

Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.

Cheers,
LT
p.s. sorry for the huge image - not sure how to adjust this!

[Sojourner47]

Thanks LT, as you say, everyone is different.
No, I'm certainly not thinking of racing anywhere, just recalling the old adge, "an ounce on the feet is equivalent to a pound on the back"....
And am currently testing out my theory that : heavy pack = heavy boots to support the weight, therefore (ultra) light pack = light shoes..... At present I have the packweight down to under 4 kg, including a litre of water but no food.Daily distance so far (I've only been training for a week) is 12km, rising each day.
S47

[Sojourner47]

Just been doing some calculations re boot/shoe weight.
I'm currently wearing Ecco goretex boots - comfortable but getting a bit worn now, so need new for the next long walk. These weigh in at 1100grms per pair - not bad compared with some...
Now, if I change to a lighter pair of Merrells/Salomon or similar, weighing around 600grms, that will be 500grm less on my feet. My pace is about 70cms, so around 1400 steps a kilometre.
1400 x 500grms is 700kg PER KILOMETRE!! So, on an "average" day of say 30kms, that's an extra 21 metric tonnes lifted!! (not counting the mud gathered along the way...)
This is probably of no practical use whatsoever, but it makes you think!
S47
PS I guess I really should have put this on the equipment forum - apologies for going off-thread...

[sillydoll]

And you'll walk about 1,000,000 steps to Santiago!!

[Sojourner47]

And you'll walk about 1,000,000 steps to Santiago!!

I'll resist the temptation to count them!!
On the VDLP (my plan for next year) it will be more like 1.4 million.....

[Portia1]

One caution is that if your shoes/boots are too lightweight, they won't give you good cushioning from asphalt/road walking abuse. A good cushioned sole is worth a lot! I was genuinely surprised by the amount of road walking. I've walked hundreds of miles on the AT and never experienced the foot pounding of the Camino--from asphalt to cobblestones mile after mile. I once took a detour on the Camino that took me miles out of the way just to avoid more road walking.