Camino de Santiago de Compostela

[peregrina2000]

Last year when I was unsuccessfully trying to heal my heel so I could continue walking on the Vdlp, I spent a few days exploring Zamora. I remember seeing a few posters of what looked like an incredible romanesque church/monastery (not sure), located 20-something km from the city. I haven't been able to find the name. I don't think it can be San Pedro de la Nave, because from the pictures I've seen, San Pedro seems to be pre-romanesque or visigothic. And these capitals were romanesque in all their glory. But maybe I've got things all mixed up in my mind.

If any of you have any suggestions (Reb, I'm hoping you know this one, and I'm sure it wasn't in Toro), I'd appreciate it -- now that it's getting near winter over here, I have entered my annual pre-Camino dreaming/planning stage, sort of like hibernation.

Thanks much, Laurie

And p.s., while I'm on the old church topic, has anyone visited the Visigothic 7th century Santa Lucia del Trampal? It's about 4 km from Alcuescar, and I've read that there's a marked path leaving from the ayuntamiento/town hall. That would make a nice add-on to the 20 km Aljucen to Alcuescar day, no?

[lovingkindness]

Hola, greetings from Salamanca. I have just strolled in and remembered your query. All going well, I should arrive in Zamora in a few days time. I will look arround and try to find the posters you mention. Regards, Lovingkindness.

[lovingkindness]

Hi again, ´ps. I forgot to look out for the path you mentioned to the visigoth church. I arrived in Aljucen on a Sunday just in time for mass. Although I didn´t take the time, every peregrino I´ve met since Aljucen has waxed lyrical about the Roman termes (hot baths) in Aljucen (only 5 euros for peregrinos), and the pleasure experienced in leisurely soaking and having a massage (extra). Perhaps you could add this plus the visigoth church to your plans. I wish I had! Regards, Lovingkindness.

[peregrina2000]

Hi lovingkindness, lucky you! Hope all continues to go well. By the way, do you have a blog so I could follow along from afar?

I received an email last week from the Zamora parador saying that the poster I was describing was indeed from San Pedro de la Nave (so much for my memory of romanesque capitals, because it is older than that). It's about 11 km outside Zamora, and I'm going to try my darndest to get there next spring when I attempt the Vdlp again -- the capital I must have been remembering is one showing Daniel fighting the lions, which you can see on many websites. http://www.flickr.com/photos/stavlokratz/1313781323/

Anyway, in case you're interested in visiting romanesque when you hit Zamora, let me put in a plug for two of my favorites which are kind of off the beaten path. They are both outside the walls (about a 5 minute walk down the hill from the cathedral), and both allow photographs of the capitals, which are pretty cool.

One of the churches is Santiago de los Caballeros (Santiago el Viejo), which is supposedly where El Cid went to pray most often. It's very tiny but very beautiful and a great place to sit and contemplate; there is a guide who eagerly awaits visitors, of which there are very few. And then a few blocks away is San Claudio, another (bigger) romanesque church with capitals in excellent shape. I have some pictures at the end of this set of photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.reyn ... terrupted#

Zamora has instituted a system that closes half of their visit-able romanesque churches on Monday and the other half is closed on Tuesday. The tourist office about two blocks from the albergue has all the information. So you'll always be able to visit something. But these two (closed on Tuesday, I believe, at least they were last May) are well worth the visit.

Buen camino, peregrina. Laurie

[peregrina2000]

Just a quick p.s. --

For anyone wanting to know where all the romanico is in Zamora, here is a good site, though it's not fancy or graphically stunning: http://www.telefonica.net/web2/zamoraup/romanico1.htm

I'm sure there are more sophisticated sites, but this one has a little blurb in Spanish and a few pictures of each major church.

And there's also a very clear city map with all the churches listed, here: http://www.telefonica.net/web2/zamoraup ... /plano.htm

I spent two days there and those days were very full. I didn't even get to the Semana Santa museum -- has anyone been there?

Laurie

[Rebekah Scott]

As you know, Zamora is a big favorite of mine... and as of November 1, the pilgrim hostel is open and staffed right through til March!

One other attraction in town that no one has touched on yet is the Museum of Ethnography, a block behind the parador. (a renaissance palace worth looking into.) "Ethnography" sounds terribly dull, but it really is a fascinating three stories of day--to-day doodads from the region -- the ethnic clothes, religious rites, carts and harnesses, etc. etc., all displayed in the most modern ways. There´s another ethnographic museum just opened last year in Mansilla de las Mulas, too. Check them out if you like local history and rural Spanish culture!

And don´t forget the long street that heads downhill from the Plaza Mayor. It´s almost entirely populated by tapas bars, and they really wind it up at about 11 p.m.

Reb.

[peregrina2000]

Well, since we're talking museums in Zamora, I'll throw out another one. I was able to visit this one and really enjoyed it. It's the Provincial Museum of Zamora, has some amazing archaeological section with old tombstones, carvings, etc. There's also a lot of painting (I didn't go through those sections for lack of time). I think it's located right on the Camino, you pass by it after you cross the bridge and are on your way up to the plaza mayor.

Reb, isn't there also a large museum in a very modern building? I agree with your high opinion of Zamora, it's really one of those "hidden jewels" like Caceres. Since I was resting and trying to heal my foot, I did a lot of sitting in plazas and enjoyed talking with a lot of different people -- the residents seem to love it just as much as we do! I fear it is hellishly hot in mid summer, though. Maybe things cool off down by the river, but the river doesn't really run through the town.

Dreaming of the Vdlp...... Laurie

[lovingkindness]

Greetings from Zamora-in the-all-day-bone-chilling-mind-numbing-freezing-fog. I have just visited the Tourist office and asked about Romanesque churches in a 20 km radius of Zamora. La Iglesia San Pedro, as you thought, is actually a visigothic Church. The tourist officer thought you might be referring to the church in the pueblo Toro. The church she indicated is called Colegiata Santa Maria la Mayor, and there are other romanesque buildings there as well.

*re do I have a blog? Sorry although I am gaining new IT skills every day, I still haven´t found time to craft a blog.

* I am having a rest day here and staying in the superb, brand new alberque. It has real hot water in the showers, radiators going most of the time, and a kitchen with more than just a microwave -there´s a fridge and hotplates and someone has lovingly filled a drawer with staples such as flour, sugar, oil , salt and vinegar. A lot of attention has been given to decor and I love the tulip red leather seats in the communal area.

Regards, Lovingkindness.

[peregrina2000]

Hi lovingkindness,

Your trip to the tourist office on my behalf is a good indication of why you chose your screen name -- thanks a lot. I am definitely going to make it out to San Pedro if I am so lucky as to make it to Zamora on my second attempt on the Vdlp. I have been to Toro and thought the church there was incredible.

The albergue sounds nice and welcoming, hope you enjoy your day off in that very pretty city.

Buen camino, Laurie

[Klaske]

I am leaving in april from Salamanca to continue my camino. I will not need a resting day yet, but I will definitely stay a day to visit Zamora. Thanks for all the information

[viajero]

I'm glad that Rebekah mentioned the street with all of the tapas bars. I don't know if it is still there but towards the end of the street on the right there is a tapas place that specializes in grilled corizo. It is delicious. I haven't been there for years but whenever I think of Zamora, I think of that place.