Salvador - Primitivo in May 2014

[daandownunder]

Hi,
I've been regularly checking this formum (especially the Salvador part) for a while now, it's not the busiest, but recently I have enjoyed some wonderful videos from Gunnar and I'm getting excited!

Flying to Madrid and taking the train to León on the 9th of May, I hope to walk to Santiago (by myself) on the camino del Salvador and then the Primitivo from Oviedo. I have some (practical) questions that maybe someone can help me with...

1) Snow: How likely is it I'll encounter A LOT? (Not expecting miraculous weather predictions, but generally..?).
I walked the Camino Frances from late april and wore short sleeves most of the time, had only one longsleeve other than my fleece, but maybe for these routes 2 long and 1 short...? I brought a summer sleepingbag and silk liner then and want to do the same now. Are there any blankets available in the albergues? I have a 3-season sleepingbag, but it weighs so much more and takes up so much space...
My plan B in case of too much snow is going up to the coast, somewhere 5/6 days walk from Oviedo on the Camino del Norte or going to Oviedo by train and then walking on to Muxia/Finisterre. Any suggestions on a starting point on the Norte that are relativly easy to reach from León are welcome!

2) Guidebooks/maps: I've downloaded/printed the CSJ Guide by Laurie Reynolds and Rebekah Scott for the Camino del Salvador. Do I need any additional maps (I think I would like to have something..?). I have Paco Nadal's book on the Camino del Norte and Primitivo, but I absolutely DON'T want to bring it (it's too heavy to take anywhere in my opinion... But lots of information). So I've also ordered the guide to the Camino Primitivo from CSJ. Never used one, so I don't know if it contains any maps? I guess I could copy the ones from Paco Nadal...

Thanks!
Buen camino to everybody,
Danielle

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Danielle, oh lucky you. I am pretty sure you will LOVE this camino.

About snow. Ender (if you don't know who he is, do a little checking, he is the leader of the Salvador Camino
Angels, having put in sturdy metal arrows, built a bridge, etc etc.). Anyway, Ender said the following on a Spanish forum a couple of weeks ago:

"Last year we had snow until May. This year we haven't had much snow, but a lot of rain, so I don't think that people will have trouble in the second half of April."

I would just add that it wouldn't be a bad idea to check in again a week or so before departure just to see what the situation is. People like jflavin who have walked the Salvador in a lot of snow will tell you it's dangerous and not a lot of fun.

About the guides: Ender also wrote a great guide, translated into English, to the Salvador http://es.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-ingles-del-camino-del-salvador It's a lot longer than Reb's and mine, has good explanatory pictures, and I think you can just bring one of the two, annotating the one you bring with notes from the other.

I have walked the Primitivo twice without a guidebook, but there is very good online info on mundicamino, eroski, and gronze. I don't think the CSJ guides have maps, and the online sources just have very schematic maps. Are you talking about accurate topological maps?

Buen camino to you! Laurie

 

[StuartM]

I found having both guides was very useful, they're pretty short so dont take much weight. The pictures in Ender's guide are really useful, just about every important point is shown. I'd also read some of the (very long) Salvador threads, particularly the one on Puerto de Pajares.

It's a lovely route, very solitary though.

 

[jayree]

From Ender's Facebook page

http://es.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-ingles-del-camino-del-salvador

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I was just up at Poladura de Tercia. Very muddy and wet, snow still up on the heights, but I think by May you will have nothing much to worry about. You should be fine with the layers of clothes you describe, but bring some light gloves. And I hope you use a staff or walking sticks, those are really handy on this trail.

There were blankets in the albergues I stayed in, but I cannot address the Poladura albergue -- when there´s such a nice B&B next door, I go for that!

 

[Dirkhj]

Snow in Cebreiro during May 2013.
Enjoy it.

 

[StuartM]

I was just up at Poladura de Tercia. Very muddy and wet, snow still up on the heights, but I think by May you will have nothing much to worry about. You should be fine with the layers of clothes you describe, but bring some light gloves. And I hope you use a staff or walking sticks, those are really handy on this trail.

There were blankets in the albergues I stayed in, but I cannot address the Poladura albergue -- when there´s such a nice B&B next door, I go for that!

I'm pretty sure there were blankets in the albergue. It's a bit scruffy but it's a donativo and cant see many guests over the year. I couldnt get hold of the people from the B&B so ended up in the albergue next door.

I'd agree... poles are really useful! I wouldnt normally carry them but glad I did here. It feels like you descend a heck of a lot more than you ascend!

 

[daandownunder]

Thanks a lot everyone for all the replies!

Unfortunately the link to Ender's guide does not seem to be working, but I'll keep trying!

Walking poles... I only have one... and I've only ever (bought and) used it a bit on a holiday in New Zealand with a 15-16 kg pack... Don't plan on taking more than 8! But maybe I'll get a pair, especially after watching Gunnar's movies. It reminded me of walking GR65 from Le Puy and on some parts wondering how on earth ALL those loose rocks ended up on one track at the same time... and then steeper...

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks a lot everyone for all the replies!

Unfortunately the link to Ender's guide does not seem to be working, but I'll keep trying!

Walking poles... I only have one... and I've only ever (bought and) used it a bit on a holiday in New Zealand with a 15-16 kg pack... Don't plan on taking more than 8! But maybe I'll get a pair, especially after watching Gunnar's movies. It reminded me of walking GR65 from Le Puy and on some parts wondering how on earth ALL those loose rocks ended up on one track at the same time... and then steeper...

Jayree gave the link to the guide on Ender's facebook page It's reply #4 on this thread. It's a great resource.

 

[JFidelL]

Hi,

My first post here. Just wanted to throw in my two cents since I did the Camino del Salvador - Primitivo - Muxia - Finisterre in late February/March this year.

1.) The snow was not hip-deep like I feared (at worst, knee deep in certain sections), but there are a few dangerous spots between the cross past Poladura de la Tercia and Puerto de Pajares. Dangerous meaning there were sheets of smooth snow stretching across the path, going all the way down the mountainside. One slip would have been very bad. I don't think they will be a problem in May, but I'm not the right person to ask.

2.) I too had that CSJ printable guide. Though I wish I had brought some sort of map, just to know where I was going. Their Camino Primitivo also does not have any maps, except for a general map of the whole Camino.

And the albergue in Poladura was a bit dirty and cold (the bathroom air vent is a hole in the ceiling, for example), but it did have blankets. It also was my only option since the B&B was closed for the season.

Buen Camino,
Fidel

 

[LTfit]

First of all thanks Laurie, Reb, Susanna, Gunnar and all others that have given us forum members great information! And sorry down under for posting in your thread - it seemed silly to start another.

Finally I am sitting down to investigate Camino alternatives for this summer. I keep wavering between the combo Salvador-Primitivo and the Levante (I know can't be compared) and am now actually looking into the stages, km, elevations changes etc. I am doing it with a Camino companion who is not as strong as I am and I don't want to do him in! Thinking of starting the last week of June and have 3 weeks to walk which means that I would only be able to do a part of the Levante but could complete the Salvador-Primitivo.

Questions:
1) I have a light-weight (15c) sleeping bag which I took this February on the Vía de la Plata. Would I need it in the mountains end June/beginning July? I also have a silk liner which I would rather use due to weight.
2) I would like to do the 5 day alternative: León-La Robla-Poladura de la Tercia-Campomanes-Mieres-Oviedo. That would give sufficient time to visit Oviedo as the last stage is 19 km. Anyone have specific comments on this alternative? I understand that we would need to stay in a few private albergues.
3) @peregrina2000 Laurie - I tried to open the link you mention in post #2 but it is indeed still off the air. Could you please post the link to the Spanish forum?
4) I was reading through the Ender's English guide (link on #4) but there were no pictures. Do I need to open a different section? Ender must also have a Spanish version. Does anyone know about that?

Thanks in advance and Buen Camino!

 

[peregrina2000]

LT, do you not see pictures here?

http://es.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-ingles-del-camino-del-salvador

Link to Spanish version: http://es.scribd.com/mobile/doc/91084807

The Spanish forum moved to a new site about a year ago, http://foroperegrinos.com

At that address, you have two choices, Foro peregrinos or Foro Peregrinos Historico. As far as I can tell, all of the old posts have been transferred to the new "foro peregrinos" site, so I don't know why you would need the historico site.

Hope this is what you were asking, LT

I think some would say that Poladura to Campomanes is a tough stage. Not only the mountains from Poladura to the pass at Pajares, but there are some parts on the way into Campomanes that can be dicey, narrow, overgrowth, etc I think that Susanna walked Poladura to Campomanes so she will have a clearer opinion. I found Pajares to Pola de Lena to be very manageable. You do not have to go into Pajares if you are not going to stop there, so that must knock off a few kms from the Poladura-Campomanes stage, and all options are very well marked thanks to Ender.

As far as your other questions, I know I would be cold with just a silk liner, but you may not be the "friolera" that I am.

The next time I walk the Salvador, I plan to stop in Poladura, that will give two days of mountain splendor rather than just one!

This is a great choice for a 3-week camino! Laurie

 

[CanPete]

Hi, Danielle, oh lucky you. I am pretty sure you will LOVE this camino.

About snow. Ender (if you don't know who he is, do a little checking, he is the leader of the Salvador Camino
Angels, having put in sturdy metal arrows, built a bridge, etc etc.). Anyway, Ender said the following on a Spanish forum a couple of weeks ago:

"Last year we had snow until May. This year we haven't had much snow, but a lot of rain, so I don't think that people will have trouble in the second half of April."

I would just add that it wouldn't be a bad idea to check in again a week or so before departure just to see what the situation is. People like jflavin who have walked the Salvador in a lot of snow will tell you it's dangerous and not a lot of fun.

About the guides: Ender also wrote a great guide, translated into English, to the Salvador http://caminodelsalvador.net/?cat=13 . For some reason I can't open the website today, but I'm assuming it's still there, and I highly recommend it. It's a lot longer than Reb's and mine, has good explanatory pictures, and I think you can just bring one of the two, annotating the one you bring with notes from the other.

I have walked the Primitivo twice without a guidebook, but there is very good online info on mundicamino, eroski, and gronze. I don't think the CSJ guides have maps, and the online sources just have very schematic maps. Are you talking about accurate topological maps?

Buen camino to you! Laurie

The Cicerone guide to the Northern Caminos has a complete route description on El Primitivo too . . .

Buen Camino !

 

[LTfit]

Thanks Laurie! I was reading the 'Document Transcript' below the logo rather than following the arrows!
Both versions of the guide look great!
I checked out the foro but unfortunately it is not as nicely organized as this one. You need to search through the topics as they are not per Camino as here.
I will pm Susanna about the stages although I remember that she walked all the way to Buiza on the first day. My walking companion would jump ship on day 1 if we did that. Is there a beter 5 day alternative?
It looks like I will use your 12 day Primitivo version should this combo be my final choice.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks Laurie! I was reading the 'Document Transcript' below the logo rather than following the arrows!
Both versions of the guide look great!
I checked out the foro but unfortunately it is not as nicely organized as this one. You need to search through the topics as they are not per Camino as here.
I will pm Susanna about the stages although I remember that she walked all the way to Buiza on the first day. My walking companion would jump ship on day 1 if we did that. Is there a beter 5 day alternative?
It looks like I will use your 12 day Primitivo version should this combo be my final choice.

I think it's hard to get a good five day equally balanced Salvador. Ender's guide has another suggestion, but it has a short Poladura to Pajares (14) with a long Pola de Lena to Oiedo (34).

I don't know what time you plan to arrive in Leon, but if you arrived in the morning, you could make a 16 km walk to Cabanillas, where there is now a small albergue. That would then give you more flexibility in setting up five days. Laurie

 

[jpflavin1]

Cabanillas (pop. 20) is a nice stop with a late start. There is a very nice clean Albergue but no food or bar. I was lucky one of the neighborhood women brought me to her house and fed me.

Poladura has a terrible Albergue. I recommend you stay at the Casa Rural noted in Enders guide. Another small town with no store or bar.

Poladura to Campomanes is a tough stage but Laurie is correct when she says you can take the San Miguel and skip Pajares. That said, the view from the Albergue in Pajares is one of the best, imo, on this Camino. It is also a nice full service Albergue.

Pola de Lena to Oviedo is much more doable. There is some pedestrian walkway. Mieres is a nice city to stop with lots of eating options then a few up and downs to Oviedo.

This is a wonderful Camino with the exception of the first 7 km's walking out of Leon. Buiza to Campomanes, imo, is the toughest section.

I used Enders guide and found the route well marked. It is very lightly traveled. Stop in the Leon Albergue to pick up the San Salvador credential.

Weather can be unpredictable. I walked early April last year and encountered very large drifts. I posted them on the San Salvador thread. I think in May you should be fine.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Rebekah Scott]

I cannot add a whole lot to the above except to tell you the mountains visible from here are now clear of snow!

 

[angulero]

Posiblemente eso cambie durante esta semana.

Maybe that will change this week.

 

[angulero]

Como podéis ver en el vídeo, las montañas vuelven a tener nieve.

As you can see in the video, the mountains have snow again.

http://www.rtpa.es/asturias:Oriente...intensa-de-lo-que-va-de-año_111395827273.html

 

[Stedds]

For the Camino Primitivo: Go to the Oficinia de Turismo in Oviedo and they will have the Camino guidebook for you. They contain a lot of information not included in the guidebooks you pay for and vice-versa. They are very small, give concise information and are free.


Ultreia!!

 

[StuartM]

I found the Pola de Lena to Oviedo (34km) stretch to be the worst of them all. The long stretch by the river to Mieres especially. Lots of tarmac walking, lots of civilisation. It's the one stage I'd happily skip.

 

[peregrina2000]

I agree with you completely, Stuart, about the uninspiring walk. From Mieres onward it was much nicer (though still a LOT of asphalt). BUT if you hate walking on asphalt-tarmac as I am, there is a well worth dirt path alongside most of the cement walkway along the river. It occasionally dead ends into bushes or trees but it is right next to the walkway and worth hopping over onto.

 

[stellasoave]

i think i start my slavador camino in 11 of may.....and then primitivo....i hope will be better time....

 

[econodan]

We had a fantastic time walking the Ruta del Salvador in June 2012. If you like mountain walking and scenery it can't be beat.
Echoing others' experiences, we found the albergue in Poladura a little run down (plus, there were three noisy pilgrims there), so we stayed in the B&B next door. Bear in mind that there are no stores for groceries or other places to eat in that village, so either bring provisions or plan on dinner in the B&B. If you opt for the latter, you need to call them a day ahead so that they'll have food to serve you. That said, we found the B&B very comfy, the hostess delightful, and the dinner was one of the best we've eaten anywhere in Spain.
Pajares is also a very nice stop, with a great albergue and very friendly locals.
More details (and a few pics) on the stages we walked in our blog here.
Buen Camino.
Dan

 

[Thomas1962]

Questions:
1) I have a light-weight (15c) sleeping bag which I took this February on the Vía de la Plata. Would I need it in the mountains end June/beginning July? I also have a silk liner which I would rather use due to weight.
2) I would like to do the 5 day alternative: León-La Robla-Poladura de la Tercia-Campomanes-Mieres-Oviedo. That would give sufficient time to visit Oviedo as the last stage is 19 km. Anyone have specific comments on this alternative? I understand that we would need to stay in a few private albergues.

Thanks in advance and Buen Camino!

Hi,
Last september I walked the salvador. It is different from other camino's, but I loved it a lot.
1. I had only a silk liner which was fine for me too. I haven't been in Mieres, but as far as I remember all the places you mention there were blankets.
2. I did nearly the exact stages as you planned, but off course, it depends a lot on your condition. The day till Campomanes can be a challenge but was fine for us. Because the last stretch from Puente de los Fierros on (I think that was the place were you pass the train station with the first bar since long) seems to go really up and down and extra km's, we decided to walk along the N-630 which was fine to me (at that moment tarmac felt even like a nice change ). That stretch has also yellow arrows. First, you actually walk on the N-630, later on you can walk on the old quit version of it, which still goes along it. There is no albergue, but the nice rooms we found felt like a nice treat after this long walk, and after the albergue in Poladura too...
We had started more then 2 weeks before in Madrid, by this time walking became very easy for me, as if I could walk the whole world in two days. When I arrived the next day in Mieres, I even decided it was too early for me to stop and continued straight away to Oviedo.
Wish you a wonderful camino!

 

[LTfit]

Hi Thomas,
Thanks for your reply. After much flipping back and forth between the combo Salvador/Primitivo and the Levante I have finally made up my mind and booked a flight to Valencia. Therefore my wish list of future Caminos continues to grow (Salvador/Primitivo, Mozárabe, Aragónes...).
So when/what is your next Camino?
Groetjes aan Ria (we met once for a coffee in Pied à Terre).