Top Tips for the Le Puy Route?

[irishgurrrl]

Hey folks - as most of you know I'm heading on my third camino in April to walk the Le Puy Route

I've already walked the Camino Frances and Finisterre but was wondering if there are many things different to the Camino Frances I need to watch out for on my upcoming French camino... such as shop opening hours etc., which stages lack shops/provisions, how much money to carry (i.e. are there many ATMs) etc....

Your top tips welcome please Hopefully this thread will be of use to all future Le Puy'ers!

Eilish

 

[Thornley]

*I need to watch out for*................. the beautiful scenery , its is really lovely.
No problems with ATM's
No problems with shops , there will always be something open in the bigger towns and in the smaller ones the gites take very good care of their walkers.
Try and organise the walk into towns having their market day....thus young Eilish ...take your time.
Expect to see many french and some only going to Conque , others on a week or two week walk.
No cyclists , water no problems .
Big chance of getting wet on the Aubrac in April [ we got drenched in May]
Take the Cele Valley if possible, beautiful UNESCO villages.
Very, very different than Frances.......alone on the Dales.......you will love it,
Bon Chemin,Bon Courage.
David

 

[ranthr]

Shops are very often closed Saturday afternoon, Sundays and Mondays. Lunchtime is 12-14, do not expect to get a meal at 13.30. not so many places to buy food in small towns, to be sure to get dinner, prebook demi- pension at the gites. Prices are higher than in Spain.
If it is bad weather, take the road instead of the camino. I did that sometimes last spring and most of the roads were quiet roads and sometimes you get a better view than on the camino too. Since I had walked there before i knew where the path could be bad.

 

[NadAmr]

The last week of May is very festive on the Aubrac hills (between St Alban/Limagnol and St Come d'Olt). Be carefull to have a bed : make a Reservation.
Last year it was snowing again on the Aubrac on May 28th and the festival was under the snow. It was the first time but...
In Figeac you can go to the Virgin Mary sanctuary of Rocamadour : a must!
You can go with the bus, or by walking (3 days) and then reach the way in Cahors (2 days).
The best book for the Way of Le Puy is called "Miam-miam dodo". You have all informations about accomodations, prices, atm, alberges, waterpoint, etc. You don't have to read french to understand it!
Last tip : in Monistrol d'Allier, there is a Restaurant with an ex-2 stars chef, so your pilgrim plate at 8€ is a 2 stars plate! ( the restaurant, Le Repos du pelerin is just before a good hard climbing so... )
Bon Chemin et Ultreia!

 

[irishgurrrl]

*I need to watch out for*................. the beautiful scenery , its is really lovely.
No problems with ATM's
No problems with shops , there will always be something open in the bigger towns and in the smaller ones the gites take very good care of their walkers.
Try and organise the walk into towns having their market day....thus young Eilish ...take your time.
Expect to see many french and some only going to Conque , others on a week or two week walk.
No cyclists , water no problems .
Big chance of getting wet on the Aubrac in April [ we got drenched in May]
Take the Cele Valley if possible, beautiful UNESCO villages.
Very, very different than Frances.......alone on the Dales.......you will love it,
Bon Chemin,Bon Courage.
David

Thanks David - Sounds amazing - one of the attractions of this camino is the beautiful scenery and being alone in the Dales as you put it Can't wait!

 

[irishgurrrl]

The last week of May is very festive on the Aubrac hills (between St Alban/Limagnol and St Come d'Olt). Be carefull to have a bed : make a Reservation.
Last year it was snowing again on the Aubrac on May 28th and the festival was under the snow. It was the first time but...
In Figeac you can go to the Virgin Mary sanctuary of Rocamadour : a must!
You can go with the bus, or by walking (3 days) and then reach the way in Cahors (2 days).
The best book for the Way of Le Puy is called "Miam-miam dodo". You have all informations about accomodations, prices, atm, alberges, waterpoint, etc. You don't have to read french to understand it!
Last tip : in Monistrol d'Allier, there is a Restaurant with an ex-2 stars chef, so your pilgrim plate at 8€ is a 2 stars plate! ( the restaurant, Le Repos du pelerin is just before a good hard climbing so... )
Bon Chemin et Ultreia!

Thanks NadAmr - will definitely keep an eye out for that restaurant!

 

[irishgurrrl]

Shops are very often closed Saturday afternoon, Sundays and Mondays. Lunchtime is 12-14, do not expect to get a meal at 13.30. not so many places to buy food in small towns, to be sure to get dinner, prebook demi- pension at the gites. Prices are higher than in Spain.
If it is bad weather, take the road instead of the camino. I did that sometimes last spring and most of the roads were quiet roads and sometimes you get a better view than on the camino too. Since I had walked there before i knew where the path could be bad.

Great - thanks ranthr - we'll mainly be booking our dinner in the gites alright especially in the smaller places Hopefully they can provide a packed lunch too if we can't get provisions... We expect to hit at least some snow in mid April so thanks for the tip.

 

[Kitsambler]

I'm glad someone else had no trouble finding open shops and supplies; that certainly wasn't my experience. I remember having a very thin evening meal twice, making do with the lunch leftovers. Shops seemed to close up the minute they see me coming! Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, sometimes Wednesday or Thursday afternoons. It really pays to pay attention to what day of the week you are. Always either reserve demi-pension, or ask about meals and resupply when you make your reservation. There are many details in our blogs; be sure to read them all.

 

[wendywalker]

In Sept/Oct 2013 on the Le Puy route, we booked our gites and evening meals ahead by 2-3 days, almost always a communal dinner. That was great fun, and (mostly) excellent food, and always very attentive hosts. Congenial hosts were a highlight for me! At that time of year at least - often there were no places to stop for coffee or bathrooms during the day. We stocked up for lunches at small grocery stores or markets. And as others have pointed out - this can be tricky on Sundays and Mondays (and sometimes other days too!).
I particularly enjoyed the last week or so coming to SJPP, approaching the Pyrenees - wonderful green rolling countryside with the mountains getting closer every day.

 

[newfydog]

Learn about the Bete of the Gevaudan. Collect pictures of him as you go and don't miss the Bete museum in Saugues

 

[Sabina Harpe]

Wonderful to read all these hints... snow at the end of May... maybe I should pack my skis!!
I am gathering my courage to walk on my own. I plan to walk to Conques and two or three days beyond that in order to take a train back to Lyon. Apparently there is no train from Conques. Can anyone enlighten me on a return to Lyon after Conques? Thanks.

 

[irishgurrrl]

I'm glad someone else had no trouble finding open shops and supplies; that certainly wasn't my experience. I remember having a very thin evening meal twice, making do with the lunch leftovers. Shops seemed to close up the minute they see me coming! Saturday, Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, sometimes Wednesday or Thursday afternoons. It really pays to pay attention to what day of the week you are. Always either reserve demi-pension, or ask about meals and resupply when you make your reservation. There are many details in our blogs; be sure to read them all.

Sounds almost impossible to plan food/shopping with opening hours and days so variable but like you we will mainly be doing the demipension option... Really need to start reading up on this route lol. I lived in France for a few months (La Clusaz, Haute Savoie - French Alps) about 18 years ago but I can't remember these kinds of details...

Was wondering if the gite owners would make lunch on the days you get 'stuck' for provisions? I assume most would as all you need really is some bread and cheese worst case scenario.. Cool sure better start reading up on the route - been so busy lately I hadn't gotten around to these kinds of details Thanks

 

[scruffy1]

Serge in Cahors at Relais de Jacobin behind the cathedral and just over the bridge look for the yellow arrows he is a must a gracious host and wonderful cook! Being of the Irish persuation you must also stay with Rom & Aideen Bates at the Ultreia Gite in Moissac 45 avenue Pierre Chabrié across the street from the train station-very kind very Irish (lots of potatos on the menu you should feel right at home).

 

[irishgurrrl]

Wonderful to read all these hints... snow at the end of May... maybe I should pack my skis!!
I am gathering my courage to walk on my own. I plan to walk to Conques and two or three days beyond that in order to take a train back to Lyon. Apparently there is no train from Conques. Can anyone enlighten me on a return to Lyon after Conques? Thanks.

Cahors seems to be one of the nearest to Conques (that I could find at least) but there could be others... Its on a different train line to Lyon so some of the trains will take a long time and you will invariably have to change somewhere - I did find one leaving at 9am (seems to be daily) which takes under 6 hours - Cahors to Toulouse Matabiau (about 1h25min journey) and from there to Lyon Part Dieu... check out www.sncf.com for the latest timetables for your specific dates - you can book your tickets online (sometimes much cheaper).

 

[irishgurrrl]

Serge in Cahors at Relais de Jacobin behind the cathedral and just over the bridge look for the yellow arrows he is a must a gracious host and wonderful cook! Being of the Irish persuation you must also stay with Rom & Aideen Bates at the Ultreia Gite in Moissac 45 avenue Pierre Chabrié across the street from the train station-very kind very Irish (lots of potatos on the menu you should feel right at home).

haha yes we love our spuds scruffy thanks for the tips!

 

[irishgurrrl]

In Sept/Oct 2013 on the Le Puy route, we booked our gites and evening meals ahead by 2-3 days, almost always a communal dinner. That was great fun, and (mostly) excellent food, and always very attentive hosts. Congenial hosts were a highlight for me! At that time of year at least - often there were no places to stop for coffee or bathrooms during the day. We stocked up for lunches at small grocery stores or markets. And as others have pointed out - this can be tricky on Sundays and Mondays (and sometimes other days too!).
I particularly enjoyed the last week or so coming to SJPP, approaching the Pyrenees - wonderful green rolling countryside with the mountains getting closer every day.

Thanks Wendy for all the great tips

 

[Kitsambler]

Wonderful to read all these hints... snow at the end of May... maybe I should pack my skis!!
I am gathering my courage to walk on my own. I plan to walk to Conques and two or three days beyond that in order to take a train back to Lyon. Apparently there is no train from Conques. Can anyone enlighten me on a return to Lyon after Conques? Thanks.

Figeac is the next good train connection after Conques.

 

[Kitsambler]

Was wondering if the gite owners would make lunch on the days you get 'stuck' for provisions? I assume most would as all you need really is some bread and cheese worst case scenario..

Bread from the breakfast table is generally available. Cheese and sausage keep several days without refrigeration. Carrots travel well. Some gite owners will pack a "pique-nique" if you request when you call ahead for reservation; others won't - it depends on their personal inclination and time/supply available.

 

[Thornley]

Wonderful to read all these hints... snow at the end of May... maybe I should pack my skis!!
I am gathering my courage to walk on my own. I plan to walk to Conques and two or three days beyond that in order to take a train back to Lyon. Apparently there is no train from Conques. Can anyone enlighten me on a return to Lyon after Conques? Thanks.

Hard question Sabina,
I was going to say walk two extra days past Conques to Figeac where there is a station.
However looking @ Bonjourlafrance under train you end up going to Cahors ....Toulouse and the a long trip back to Lyon.

Many left @ Conques especially for Paris , they were driven in taxis to a nearby town where there is transport .
Maybe send a question to the albergue Conques for an answer or one of the larger hotels in the city.

Take the extra week and end up in Cahors,
Bon Chemin , David

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Wonderful to read all these hints... snow at the end of May... maybe I should pack my skis!!
I am gathering my courage to walk on my own. I plan to walk to Conques and two or three days beyond that in order to take a train back to Lyon. Apparently there is no train from Conques. Can anyone enlighten me on a return to Lyon after Conques? Thanks.

There isn't a train from Conques, but it is possible to get out from there via taxi or sometimes bus, or pilgrim transport. This page on the Conques tourist site outlines various options.http://www.tourisme-conques.fr/en/venir-conques.php

I left from Conques in 2012 to head south to Moissac and the Tourist Office gave me two options. It was a school day I left on, so I was able to go earlyish in the morning via the school bus to get to Rodez which is a major hub. Another option is to go via taxi to St Christophe Vallon from where you could catch a train to Paris (not where you are aiming for I know.) There is also pilgrim transport back to Le Puy en Velay and from there you could get a train to Lyon. ( I presume this only runs in the main tourist season, but I saw lots of French people waiting for it when I was in Conques in May.)

I am not sure if this is any help for you Sabine, but it might help some others.
Margaret

 

[Sabina Harpe]

Figeac is the next good train connection after Conques.

There isn't a train from Conques, but it is possible to get out from there via taxi or sometimes bus, or pilgrim transport. This page on the Conques tourist site outlines various options.http://www.tourisme-conques.fr/en/venir-conques.php

I left from Conques in 2012 to head south to Moissac and the Tourist Office gave me two options. It was a school day I left on, so I was able to go earlyish in the morning via the school bus to get to Rodez which is a major hub. Another option is to go via taxi to St Christophe Vallon from where you could catch a train to Paris (not where you are aiming for I know.) There is also pilgrim transport back to Le Puy en Velay and from there you could get a train to Lyon. ( I presume this only runs in the main tourist season, but I saw lots of French people waiting for it when I was in Conques in May.)

I am not sure if this is any help for you Sabine, but it might help some others.
Margaret

 

[Sabina Harpe]

All of these replies help ... and illuminate the complications!! Thanks! Does anyone have the name of a good place to stay in Lyon that is central, friendly and not too expensive? I want to spend a couple of days there getting over jet lag and exploring. I would also like to leave some luggage there.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I stayed here: http://www.athena-hotel.fr/htgb/0001.htm

You can beat the price, but not the location!

Go to booking.com to see the options and locations. I usually sort on price, then look for a good customer recommendation score.

 

[irishgurrrl]

All of these replies help ... and illuminate the complications!! Thanks! Does anyone have the name of a good place to stay in Lyon that is central, friendly and not too expensive? I want to spend a couple of days there getting over jet lag and exploring. I would also like to leave some luggage there.

After much research we booked into Hotel Mercure right beside the train station where you need to get the train to Le Puy en Velay... As we can leave our luggage there while we sightsee on check out day but only need to walk a few metres with our luggage to the train station when we head to catch our train to Le Puy

It also has the added advantage that if you fly into Lyon Airport, you can get on a tram which has a stop beside the hotel (30min trip and much cheaper than a taxi). Triple glazed windows means you won't hear train noise (I've carefully checked the reviews and they are all glowingly positive). Its in the business district which is only about 10 mins from the City Centre.

http://www.mercure.com/gb/hotel-7360-mercure-lyon-la-part-dieu/index.shtml

 

[gapowell]

Hello there! It is a lovely route... I walked from Geneva to Santiago (joining the Le Puy route) a couple of years ago starting on April 30th. Not too much to add to what has already been said! Yes, the vast majority of people on the route will be French. Yes, it seemed to me that almost every other day was some sort of religious holiday there! So often shops were closed or there was a half day. Yes, it is a good idea to book ahead with accommodation (just for the next day). As far as cost goes... I felt that walking in France was about 50% more expensive than walking in Spain. Fewer municipal albergues than on the Camino Frances in Spain, so I often stayed in little 1 or 2 star hotels. I was permanently drenched for about a week at the end of May (well, it felt permanent!). I was wading along the Camino - water up to my knees at one point with no alternative path...! So be prepared for that. Lastly, it is much more physically demanding than the Camino Frances in Spain. Don't underestimate this.

But it is wonderful, wonderful, wonderful...

Enjoy. And bonne route!

 

[NadAmr]

One last tip : be confident and trust the Way. You will see that you will definitely got everything you need...at the most unexpected moment and by the most unexpected way!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

You will see that you will definitely got everything you need...at the most unexpected moment and by the most unexpected way!

That may include a lot of "you don't need it"!!!

 

[irishgurrrl]

That may include a lot of "you don't need it"!!!

lol - yes definitely!

 

[Anitam]

I loved the part from Le Puy en Velay till Cahors.. I'm thinking of finishing it this year to St. Jean Pied du Port.. But I'm afraid that there will be to few people speaking English there (and my French is not that good). I liked to stay in a place with Yourts Like tents in Mongolia in the Aubrac. The hospitaliero might not be the most friendly one, but I couldn't understand her French, zo I never knew if she was angry or just busy talking.
The other place I loved to stay was at La Maison Viala, the town? don't know, just after a nice town, the people have been walking with donkeys and are more then friendly!!! I slept in a big tent together with a pilgrim friend I met.. It was a very special and good place to be!!!

 

[Thornley]

Everyone place we stayed after Cahors spoke english very well
The people in the villages and the people running the gites

Once close to STJPdP i can assure you the Basque love speaking english.

 

[vicrev]

If you can manage it ,stay at the Carmelite refuge/gite at Figeac, it has the feel of what it was like years ago,very basic ,wonderful atmosphere, Ive stayed there twice,the evening grace I will always remember the first words " Thank you to the previous pilgrims for providing this meal ". Try & go off the designated track ,you will be amazed what a wonderful place France is for walking,do the Cele valley,not to be missed......be brave,try the food,talk to the locals with whatever French you have,they will love you for the effort.....most important,laugh along with them,contrary to popular misconceptions they do have a great sense of humour .............its up to you ,ENJOY........................keep smiling...... Vicrev

 

[irishgurrrl]

If you can manage it ,stay at the Carmelite refuge/gite at Figeac, it has the feel of what it was like years ago,very basic ,wonderful atmosphere, Ive stayed there twice,the evening grace I will always remember the first words " Thank you to the previous pilgrims for providing this meal ". Try & go off the designated track ,you will be amazed what a wonderful place France is for walking,do the Cele valley,not to be missed......be brave,try the food,talk to the locals with whatever French you have,they will love you for the effort.....most important,laugh along with them,contrary to popular misconceptions they do have a great sense of humour .............its up to you ,ENJOY........................keep smiling...... Vicrev

Thanks Vicrev - your enthusiasm is infectious

 

[Glen Eduardo Molto]

Here is my dilemma. I only have two weeks to walk from le Puy to St. Jean Pied de Port. I leave the former on Sunday, May 4 and I have to be in the later by Friday, May 16. I was hoping to visit Conques, Rocamadour, and Moissac and I will be spending a day there or at Lectoure with a friend who lives in the vicinity. Clearly I need access to some form of public transit, be it rail or bus, and was wondering what services are available that could get a pilgrim on a tight schedule to St. Jean and still live time for walking a good portion of this route.

 

[susiew]

In Sept/Oct 2013 on the Le Puy route, we booked our gites and evening meals ahead by 2-3 days, almost always a communal dinner. That was great fun, and (mostly) excellent food, and always very attentive hosts. Congenial hosts were a highlight for me! At that time of year at least - often there were no places to stop for coffee or bathrooms during the day. We stocked up for lunches at small grocery stores or markets. And as others have pointed out - this can be tricky on Sundays and Mondays (and sometimes other days too!).
I particularly enjoyed the last week or so coming to SJPP, approaching the Pyrenees - wonderful green rolling countryside with the mountains getting closer every day.

Hi Wendywalker...I am planning to walk Le Puy route end of Aug 2014.I would love to have a list of the gites you stayed in and recommend. And any special places gites not to miss like St Anton and Tosantos on Camino Frances. When you say there was no place for coffee or toilet ...why was that? Are there some days where you don't walk through villages/towns. Any advice or info will be appreciated...thank you

 

[Kanga]

French walking is very different to Spain. The GR routes ("Grande Randonee") form the basis of much of the Chermin. The GRs are geared to walking through lovely countryside, rather than getting from point A to point B. Consequently the track avoids any roads and often villages and towns. We now often deliberately wander off the route to take shortcuts and to visit villages, stop for coffee etc. We also find that accommodation two or three kilometres away from the route is much better value.
To do this we use a mini iPad or a smartphone with topographic maps downloaded and available offline - combined with having done some research beforehand on Google maps. We also have the Michelin maps on an App (it's geared to road travel but is very quick and easy to use off-line).

 

[KiwiNomad06]

Here is my dilemma. I only have two weeks to walk from le Puy to St. Jean Pied de Port. I leave the former on Sunday, May 4 and I have to be in the later by Friday, May 16. I was hoping to visit Conques, Rocamadour, and Moissac and I will be spending a day there or at Lectoure with a friend who lives in the vicinity. Clearly I need access to some form of public transit, be it rail or bus, and was wondering what services are available that could get a pilgrim on a tight schedule to St. Jean and still live time for walking a good portion of this route.

It takes most people double your timeframe at least to walk from Le Puy en Velay to SJPP- and there isn't a lot of public transport along the route.

Most people find Le Puy to Conques the most interesting part of the walk but there are also many very interesting towns and villages on the rest of the chemin. It would probably take you about ten days to walk from Le Puy to Conques, - though it took me a little longer my first time. Getting to Rocamadour could be done with public transport as a day trip from Figeac. It doesn't really leave much time to explore either Moissac or see your friend in Lectoure. I just wonder if you are trying to fit too much in to too short a time?
Margaret

 

[robertt]

If you get to Moissac, pat my very favourite cloister for me.

 

[Kanga]

Here is my dilemma. I only have two weeks to walk from le Puy to St. Jean Pied de Port. I leave the former on Sunday, May 4 and I have to be in the later by Friday, May 16. I was hoping to visit Conques, Rocamadour, and Moissac and I will be spending a day there or at Lectoure with a friend who lives in the vicinity. Clearly I need access to some form of public transit, be it rail or bus, and was wondering what services are available that could get a pilgrim on a tight schedule to St. Jean and still live time for walking a good portion of this route.

You are talking about walking 800 km in 2 weeks, and taking a day out to visit with a friend, and presumably another day out to visit Rocamadour (it is not on the Camino). So 800 km in 12 days.

Would it not make more sense instead to walk as far as you can, say to Conques or Figeac, and come back another year to do the rest? Most French pilgrims do just that. Or perhaps, if SJPDP on 16 May is your focus, don't start at Le Puy but with your friend at Lectoure? Or Aire Sur L'Adour?

I can't help with bus transport; many of the buses along the Le Puy are local and a mystery to me. They seem to only operate within a region and it's hard to find timetables. The train line shadows parts of the Le Puy only. If you are determined to get from Le Puy to SJPDP in two weeks, your best bet may be to contact one of the baggage carriers and book some rides with them. Details and phone numbers can be found in the current edition of Miam Miam Dodo.

 

[Thornley]

Well Glen Eduardo,
Its been two and a half weeks since you asked and the answers is ;
NOT possible whichever way you attempt.
4 days seeing selected villages, 1 day with a mate , thats 5 from your 14 leaving 9 days for 800km.
Stay at home Glen or do a small section and return

The paths across UK , France and Spain are made / directed to avoid public transport and roads.
This request is possible on the Norte

 

[susiew]

In Sept/Oct 2013 on the Le Puy route, we booked our gites and evening meals ahead by 2-3 days, almost always a communal dinner. That was great fun, and (mostly) excellent food, and always very attentive hosts. Congenial hosts were a highlight for me! At that time of year at least - often there were no places to stop for coffee or bathrooms during the day. We stocked up for lunches at small grocery stores or markets. And as others have pointed out - this can be tricky on Sundays and Mondays (and sometimes other days too!).
I particularly enjoyed the last week or so coming to SJPP, approaching the Pyrenees - wonderful green rolling countryside with the mountains getting closer every day.

Hi as I am also planning to walk in Sept/Oct 2014 Le Puy camino I would be very interested to see you itinerary, accommodation, cost and places with special and spiritual experiences [ not to be missed places] also routes to avoid or take. Warnings and advice. What temperature? Availability to fill up with water. Are the water fonts safe to drink from?Thank you
Susie

 

[Desota]

We also have the Michelin maps on an App

Hello Kanga,
I see a michelin app map of France for 10.99 (US$). Is that what you are referring to?

 

[Thornley]

Hi as I am also planning to walk in Sept/Oct 2014 Le Puy camino I would be very interested to see you itinerary, accommodation, cost and places with special and spiritual experiences [ not to be missed places] also routes to avoid or take. Warnings and advice. What temperature? Availability to fill up with water. Are the water fonts safe to drink from?Thank you
Susie

No routes to avoid or take Susiew on the Gr.
Just do YOUR thing.
The french are great paths , made for walking , completely different from the Portuguese.
Different from the frances because of numbers.
More in the first week and a bit to Conques from there on 20 people a day.
Easy to look up yearly averages for cities like Conques, Figeac and Cahors etc to get the weather trends from previous years.
Costs are three times the Frances
If it rains on the Aubrac [ you are safe in Sept] you won't wish for more.
Fonts for water not required.
Take it on mate,
Bon Chemin

 

[Kanga]

Hi as I am also planning to walk in Sept/Oct 2014 Le Puy camino I would be very interested to see you itinerary, accommodation, cost and places with special and spiritual experiences [ not to be missed places] also routes to avoid or take. Warnings and advice. What temperature? Availability to fill up with water. Are the water fonts safe to drink from?Thank you
Susie

Susie, it's a lovely route, you will enjoy it. Read the previous posts in the Le Puy section on the forum, you will find most of your questions answered. Bon Chermin!

 

[Kanga]

Hello Kanga,
I see a michelin app map of France for 10.99 (US$). Is that what you are referring to?

Yes, but check it the maps and not the food and accommodation guide.

 

[AMDG56]

In Sept/Oct 2013 on the Le Puy route, we booked our gites and evening meals ahead by 2-3 days, almost always a communal dinner. That was great fun, and (mostly) excellent food, and always very attentive hosts. Congenial hosts were a highlight for me! At that time of year at least - often there were no places to stop for coffee or bathrooms during the day. We stocked up for lunches at small grocery stores or markets. And as others have pointed out - this can be tricky on Sundays and Mondays (and sometimes other days too!).
I particularly enjoyed the last week or so coming to SJPP, approaching the Pyrenees - wonderful green rolling countryside with the mountains getting closer every day.

I am flying into Lyon and public transport to le puy en Velay on September 1st.
I would also love if you could share your " not to be missed" spots and list of albergues/ gites
I hope to take the El cele variant.
Anyone else starting that Tuesday morning 2nd of Sept? Hope to avoid a weekend peak of walkers!
Antoinette Gregan

 

[Thornley]

AMDG
When a young man many years ago I had to put this on top of every page I worked on in school
The nuns did drum it into us and look out if you forgot

 

[Abby]

French walking is very different to Spain. The GR routes ("Grande Randonee") form the basis of much of the Chermin. The GRs are geared to walking through lovely countryside, rather than getting from point A to point B. Consequently the track avoids any roads and often villages and towns. We now often deliberately wander off the route to take shortcuts and to visit villages, stop for coffee etc. We also find that accommodation two or three kilometres away from the route is much better value.
To do this we use a mini iPad or a smartphone with topographic maps downloaded and available offline - combined with having done some research beforehand on Google maps. We also have the Michelin maps on an App (it's geared to road travel but is very quick and easy to use off-line).

I am curious which maps you have downloaded and from where

 

[Kanga]

I am curious which maps you have downloaded and from where

The official French IGN topographic maps for the whole of France can be downloaded and cached for offline use on an iPad and iPhone via an app. The app I like best is IPhiGeNIe. It zooms down to incredibly detailed maps - every building, just about every tree. The manual is in French (with Google translate it is almost possible to understand) but I've managed to figure it out pretty much by trial and error. If you don't want as much detail Outdoors France IGN is in English. 12 month subscription to Outdoors France is $13 and IPhiGeNIe is about the same - a few $ more to get the gazetteer . Obviously there is a limit to what your cache can hold so I only save the maps I'll need.
Used on an iPad they are excellent and used with the GPS turned on you are never lost. You do have to watch the battery usage - GPS tends to eat it. IPhiGeNIe has a better system for saving the battery - once you have worked it out.

 

[Abby]

Thank you, Kanga!

 

[longwalker]

Don't forget in France you are walking on the Chemin de St. Jacques or the GR 65 and there they have red and white strips for trail markings. For local loops around villages etc.. they use yellow strips. So when in doubt whether to follow the red and white strips or the yellow ones pick the red and white ones.

 

[AMDG56]

AMDG
When a young man many years ago I had to put this on top of every page I worked on in school
The nuns did drum it into us and look out if you forgot

My father was thaught by the Jesuits and I think Loretta Nuns also have it as a motto. For the non Latin scholars it means " ad majoriam Dei gloriam" for the greater glory of God.
My dad couldn't resist giving me those initials Antoinette Maria Denise Gregan. He had it in the top left hand corner of every page also!

 

[Thornley]

Walking from Mont St Michel at the moment Antoinette,
Home in Carlton on 9-6
Wife has a good diary and notes in MMDD if required
Keep in touch
Bon Chemin,
David

 

[Diane08]

In Sept/Oct 2013 on the Le Puy route, we booked our gites and evening meals ahead by 2-3 days, almost always a communal dinner. That was great fun, and (mostly) excellent food, and always very attentive hosts. Congenial hosts were a highlight for me! At that time of year at least - often there were no places to stop for coffee or bathrooms during the day. We stocked up for lunches at small grocery stores or markets. And as others have pointed out - this can be tricky on Sundays and Mondays (and sometimes other days too!).
I particularly enjoyed the last week or so coming to SJPP, approaching the Pyrenees - wonderful green rolling countryside with the mountains getting closer every day.

Would you have a list of the places that you stayed on your trip. I am trying to get some suggestions.
Thank you
Diane

 

[Kitsambler]

Hi as I am also planning to walk in Sept/Oct 2014 Le Puy camino I would be very interested to see you itinerary, accommodation, cost and places with special and spiritual experiences [ not to be missed places] also routes to avoid or take. Warnings and advice. What temperature? Availability to fill up with water. Are the water fonts safe to drink from?Thank you
Susie

Several of us who have walked the Le Puy route have posted blogs with the details you are seeking. Check the Blogs section at the top of the Le Puy page here.

 

[marekiau]

Hi - what are the accommodation options? Not much money hoping to camp as much as possible..

 

[Kanga]

Hi - what are the accommodation options? Not much money hoping to camp as much as possible..

You will have to do some planning - Miam Miam Dodo for the GR65 is what you need. It contains all accommodation options, including camping grounds and gites, within 5km of the trail, with current prices.

You can buy the 2014 edition through Amazon.fr or download the app - available for iPads and iPhones through the App Store; I assume there is also an Android version.

I don't really think wild camping is an option along the Le Puy but I'm happy to be corrected if someone has personal experience.

 

[robertt]

I loved the whole Chemin, even those flat bits where you walk through the south end of Les Landes. Made a nice change from non-flat bits! The people of "France Profonde" are wonderful. Agree about Miam Miam Dodo, and buying latest edition.

Just be aware that the first word learnt by a French infant is "closed", so keep asking about what's open or not. (After "closed" they learn to say mummy and daddy like the rest of us.)

 

[susiew]

Walking from Mont St Michel at the moment Antoinette,
Home in Carlton on 9-6
Wife has a good diary and notes in MMDD if required
Keep in touch
Bon Chemin,
David

Hi David
I would love to see your notes on the Le Puy route as I am also planning to walk in Sept/Oct 2014 and I would be very interested to see you itinerary, accommodation, cost and places with special and spiritual experiences [ not to be missed places] also routes to avoid or take - which variants . Warnings and advice. Did you do the Cele Valley and Rocamadour? Availability to fill up with water. Are the water fonts safe to drink from?Thank you
Susie

 

[Diane08]

Hi David
I would love to see your notes on the Le Puy route as I am also planning to walk in Sept/Oct 2014 and I would be very interested to see you itinerary, accommodation, cost and places with special and spiritual experiences [ not to be missed places] also routes to avoid or take - which variants . Warnings and advice. Did you do the Cele Valley and Rocamadour? Availability to fill up with water. Are the water fonts safe to drink from?Thank you
Susie