Leon to Astorga

[jannh]

Thinking of walking from Leon to Astorga, or maybe a little farther, from Apr. 28--May 1 with my daughter. We only have 4 days between when my daughter gets out of school and an already planned family vacation with the rest of the family. We could fly into Madrid, take a train directly to Leon, and directly back from Astorga.
Wondering if that sounds like a good place to walk when there are only 4 days on the trail?
If we arrive in Leon at 4 or 5 pm, would that be a problem to find accommodations for the evening?
Thank you,
Jan

 

[RobertS26]

Any place along the Camino is a good place to walk. The distance between Leon and Astorga is approximately 54 kilometers (or a little over 30 miles). An easy three day walk. And both Leon and Astorga are beautiful towns filled with many sightseeing opportunities. If you choose to walk beyond Astorga, you should be able to taxi back to Astorga fairly easily. Buen Camino!

 

[mspath]

Jan,

As Robert said both Leon and Astorga are filled with many sightseeing possibilities! For your peace of mind when traveling to Leon you might book a room now. Also May 1 is a holiday in Spain with many people traveling as well as holiday timetables; be prepared.

Following the camino leaving Leon can be dreary. However, it is only 7 km to La Virgen del Camino and an extraordinary 20th century church. The town is named for a famous 15th century figure of the Virgin holding the dead body of Christ. Today the figure is in a splendid church designed in the 1960s by a Dominican monk, Francisco Coello, a follower of the Brutalist style of Le Corbusier. Located directly on the Camino Frances at Av Astorga, 87, in the midst of chaotic suburb the church is a superbly maintained architectural gem as well as a haven of peace. Be sure to enter it; the calm interior is splendidly lit with deep chrome yellow glass.

Opposite the church you can choose to either continue on the main camino which parallels the highway or pick up the peaceful alternative camino route going slightly southwest towards Villar de Mazarife. It is always very pleasant to escape the N120 highway noise and suburban sprawl while crossing wide flat plains up to V de M where there are several pilgrim albergues and regular accommodation. From V d M the alternative camino continues to Hospital de Órbigo to rejoin the main CF. You can read more about the alternative more rural route in this earlier Forum thread .

Hospital de Orbigo offers many accommodation options; my favorite is the Albergue Verde. They accept reservations and offer wonderful group meals each evening. Leaving HdO turn right to follow the camino towards Astorga via Santibanez de Valdeiglesias on a wonderful rolling rural path.

Happy planning and Buen Camino to both of you,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Kiwi-family]

Margaret, your replies are always so informative. Thank you.
We are heading up the Salvador from Leon, but now you have me wondering - should we spend a day wandering to La Virgen del Camino first? Googlemaps tells me it would be easy to find the Salvador route from LVdC without backtracking completely to Leon (or maybe we would just make a day of it)
Or are we going to see enough other wonderful churches that we can skip this one? ;-)

 

[mspath]

Rachael,

La Virgen del Camino is a VERY special place, do try to visit it! In no sense is this another example of 'seen one, seen them all'. Will you also be passing by Santa Maria de Eunate outside Puente La Reina? That is another extraordinary church.

Happy planning,

Margaret

 

[Kanga]

Or are we going to see enough other wonderful churches that we can skip this one? ;-)

I could spend a week in Leon itself; easily my favourite town on the Camino. As well as the Cathedral with the most beautiful windows in Christendom (IMO), don't miss the extraordinarily well preserved 12th century murals in the Royal Pantheon at the Basilica of San Isidoro. And the fantastic eat streets around the cathedral!
For the children - a few lessons in stain glass techniques and symbols - it's intriguing to try to work out which are the oldest windows, which the most modern.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

should we spend a day wandering to La Virgen del Camino first?

There is a city bus that goes to La Virgen to the airport hourly, then the referenced church. The "wander" to it is often described as a soulless urban trek along the highway and through industrial parks. The village itself has very little except the church and the airport. Seeing the church is worth the trip, but I suggest taking the bus to and from...

 

[StuartM]

Margaret, your replies are always so informative. Thank you.
We are heading up the Salvador from Leon, but now you have me wondering - should we spend a day wandering to La Virgen del Camino first? Googlemaps tells me it would be easy to find the Salvador route from LVdC without backtracking completely to Leon (or maybe we would just make a day of it)
Or are we going to see enough other wonderful churches that we can skip this one? ;-)

The walk north out of Leon is a bit dull on the Salvador so you arent missing much. On the other hand the Pre-Romanesque churches at Ujo, Santa Cristina de Lena, Naranco and San Julian de los Prados are jaw dropping beautiful if you think you may be missing some good churches.

 

[GunnarW]

Margaret, your replies are always so informative. Thank you.
We are heading up the Salvador from Leon, but now you have me wondering - should we spend a day wandering to La Virgen del Camino first? Googlemaps tells me it would be easy to find the Salvador route from LVdC without backtracking completely to Leon (or maybe we would just make a day of it)
Or are we going to see enough other wonderful churches that we can skip this one? ;-)

> Note that the tower of the church of Virgen del Camino can be seen on the Camino del Salvador during the first kilometers.

 

[jannh]

Any place along the Camino is a good place to walk. The distance between Leon and Astorga is approximately 54 kilometers (or a little over 30 miles). An easy three day walk. And both Leon and Astorga are beautiful towns filled with many sightseeing opportunities. If you choose to walk beyond Astorga, you should be able to taxi back to Astorga fairly easily. Buen Camino!

Robert, thank you, knowing the distance puts me at ease, and knowing about easily getting back to Astorga in case we do go farther answers my unasked question!

 

[jannh]

Margaret, your reply is so helpful, very much appreciate your info. I will plan our short 4-day walk around the info and highlights you've shared. I'll keep in mind about holiday schedules on May 1, thanks.
Kanga, you have me thinking we might spend the first day, or part of it, in Leon before heading out. Is there a way to find the closest albergue to Leon?
Thanks to all who posted. This is a wonderful site!
Blessings,
Jan

 

[mspath]

Jan,

Use this Eroski list for Etapa 19 onward to see the pilgrim albergues west of Leon on the Camino Frances. In La Virgen del Camino the municipal albergue Don Antonino y Dona Cinia is said to be very nice. I have not yet stayed there, however.

Margaret Meredith

 

[indyinmaine]

Jan,
If in fact you decide to walk a bit beyond Astorga there is a WONDERFUL meson in Murias de Rechivaldo called El Llar. It's about 5k from Astorga and worth the walk for the most delicious "Spanish toast" eaten, or anything else that suits your fancy. They play classical music and the proprietor treats you as if you were a long lost relative!
Buen Camino

 

[KentuckyJay]

I plan to start my Camino from Sahagun on April 29. After reading this thread, I am more pumped than ever! (Well at least as pumped as an old traveler can get.)

 

[Kiwi-family]

Rachael,

La Virgen del Camino is a VERY special place, do try to visit it! In no sense is this another example of 'seen one, seen them all'. Will you also be passing by Santa Maria de Eunate outside Puente La Reina? That is another extraordinary church.

Happy planning,

Margaret

We have a tentative plan to stop at Obanos - gentle 17km day for the little girls who will have just joined us in Pamplona and might still have a bit of jet lag. Santa Maria is calling for an afternoon visit. I hope she's open on Thursdays. Is there any way I can find out?

Kanga - great suggestion. Stained glass lessons coming up.

Gunnar - that pic would be looking back over your shoulder, wouldn't it?

Stuart - your enthusiasm for the more northern churches with their nature carvings has already been noted on my Spreadsheet of Important Information!

 

[mspath]

Rachael,

For the past years Santa Maria de Eunate has been open every day but Monday. The church is is part of the Parroquia de San Esteban (MURUZABAL (VALDIZARBE). Here is the town web It provides these telephone numbers for further info. 628-872835 / 948-341301. Why don't you call when you arrive in Pamplona ?

MM

 

[Anniesantiago]

We have a tentative plan to stop at Obanos - gentle 17km day for the little girls who will have just joined us in Pamplona and might still have a bit of jet lag. Santa Maria is calling for an afternoon visit. I hope she's open on Thursdays. Is there any way I can find out?

Kanga - great suggestion. Stained glass lessons coming up.

Gunnar - that pic would be looking back over your shoulder, wouldn't it?

Stuart - your enthusiasm for the more northern churches with their nature carvings has already been noted on my Spreadsheet of Important Information!

Hey Kiwi Family, if you're stopping at Obanos, be sure to have sleeping bags. That place is like a refrigerator and when I was there last year, the very mean hospitalero refused to turn on heat or give us blankets, saying, "Pilgrims should come prepared. Where's your saco de dormer?!" Many of us spent the afternoon shivering under all of our clothing. If we complained about the cold, he would tell us, "It's too cold? There's the door!" lol! He was a real piece of work! I think he was afraid we'd steal something. The doors to the kitchen were left closed and when I went in to use the microwave to make hot cocoa, he followed me in and made no excuses while he watched me like a hawk. I'll never stay there again. Too bad, because it could be a nice place if it were friendlier.

 

[jannh]

I started this thread Mar. 17, and today is Wed, Apr.23! I'm flying out Friday night, to arrive in Madrid Saturday morning. I used airbnb and found a room for $24 in San Bernardo Madrid! My daughter and I will arrive in Leon on Sunday evening. I'd like to book a place close to where we would start on Monday. Does anyone know where I can find a map online showing the start place, so I can book a clean, simple hotel room nearby?
Had a slight hiccup in plans. This morning I heard a snap in my calf muscle, turned out I tore one of the muscles, but the dr. said I could hike, he said it wouldn't make it worse as long as I used caution and common sense. I prayed for a miracle, and God bestowed one! We might not make it even to Astorga, but we will enjoy this time.

 

[mspath]

Jan,

There is no 'start place' as such in Leon, but you can follow the camino arrows quite easily from the cathedral . The tourist bureau faces the main entrance to the cathedral. Use this Google map which locates the cathedral and then search for a small hotel in that area. Here is a list of places to stay in Leon suggested by Forum members .

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[StuartM]

My daughter and I will arrive in Leon on Sunday evening. I'd like to book a place close to where we would start on Monday.

I stayed in the hotel attached to the Basilica of San Isidoro. It wasn't that expensive for such a nice location (maybe 50'ish euros) but a very impressive place and perfect location. It also included a fantastic breakfast and the best coffee I had in a long time.

It's a beautiful building and I believe it includes admission to the museum, although I never had time.

 

[jannh]

Thank you Margaret and Stuart. I booked at Hospederia Pax through booking.com. I saw you had mentioned it in another post, Margaret. It
includes breakfast. Price was very similar to hotel you mentioned Stuart. It almost looked like the same place!
Buen Camino,
Jan

 

[Alyssa]

There is a city bus that goes to La Virgen to the airport hourly, then the referenced church. The "wander" to it is often described as a soulless urban trek along the highway and through industrial parks. The village itself has very little except the church and the airport. Seeing the church is worth the trip, but I suggest taking the bus to and from...

At the good advice of fellow forum members, I took the city bus from León to La Virgen and was glad to have done it. (The "soulless urban trek" into León the day before on what for me was a 37km day had left me with a bad taste in my mouth." I visited the church in La Virgen and then started walking again.

 

[hampshire!tim]

If you're staying in Hospital de Orbigo, I highly recommend the private Casa Rural Central. I can dig out details if you want it. Lovely family, made me very welcome, and cured me of a chest cold I had been carrying for 2 weeks.

 

[hampshire!tim]

I agree the walk out of Leon is soul-less.
There's nothing interesting until you reach Hospital de Orbigo, after which it is more fun.
If your walking time is limited and you want the maximum enjoyment, I'd seriously consider taking a bus or taxi to Hospital de Orbigo and start from there.
Gives you more time to chat at Casa de los Dios up ahead !
Just my 2p