Thinking of starting in O' Cebreiro

[Dave Kingsella]

I'm still waffling between starting my trek in O' Cebreiro or Samos. I would really like to stay the night in the Samos Monastery, but O' Cebreiro looks beautiful and I don't think it necessarily makes sense to make Samos a stay over if I start in O' Cebreiro. Also, I'm a bit intimidated to start my with such a descent coming out of O' Cebreiro. Not sure I should take that on without first getting my legs.

I would love to hear the thoughts of others who are more familiar with the terrain. I've read differing descriptions...2,000 ft over 3 miles, 2,000 ft over 6 miles...not sure exactly though it looks like the steepest descent is near the end before Triacastela.

Would appreciate any feedback offered. Thanks!

-Dave

 

[Anniesantiago]

My opinion:

The Samos Monastery is cold and not that comfortable.
That said, the walk from Samos to Sarria is gorgeous and one of my favorite stretches.

The walk UP to O Cebreiro is not that difficult if you take it in two stages.
There are plenty of places to stay between Vega del Valcarce and O Cebreiro.
La Faba is a sweet place to stay and is a parochial.
Laguna has a lovely albergue, with good food and comfie beds.
It is a private, but is affordable. You could stay there and walk over the top of O Cebreiro next day and part way down.

It's also possible to rent a horse to take you up the hill.

I'm 62 and walked it several times.
The descent is not difficult at all, in my opinion.
To me, it was a very gentle descent, compared to the one into Roncesvalles.
I walked it last year and enjoyed every step.

 

[wayfarer]

We stayed in Las Herrerias in an albergue run by a guy from Chicago and his Spanish wife, basic but good, vegetarian dinner and a good breakfast. Its not that tough a walk up to O Cebreiro if you take your time. After a rest stop there we walked on down as far as Fonfria and stayed in an albergue run by a Brazilian family, big roomy and warm and with good food. This was the only albergue we stayed in where you had to pay for WIFI. This was approx a 20km day and coming down is not as steep as coming down from the Cruz de Ferro. All in all not a bad day.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I track vertical change (up only) with a FitBit. Herrerias to Fonfria was the most on the camino. From Fonfria it is down steadily, sometimes abruptly, to Triacastela. I did not find it as easy as Anniesantiago!!!

 

[scruffy1]

Neither O' Cebreiro nor Samos are exactly thriving centers of transportation you will spend many hours on trains/buses trying to get to either- if O'Cebreiro consider starting from Villafranca del Bierzo and yes do try the local wine there if Samos even more difficult-if you are really really interested -there are two ways back from Sarria to Samos - the opposite direction from Santiago!- take one there the other back. The monestary albergue is indeed freezing but there are several private ones the other side of the church-all nice.

 

[indyinmaine]

When there's a steep descent it's usually "up' AND "down". If you find the descent a problem take the road! It may be longer but it usually ONLY goes down. As for where to start I'd choose O Cebreiro over Samos, JUST for the church.

 

[mspath]

In the past years I have climbed O Cebreiro eight times stopping at Ruitelan the night before and then walking up 5 1/2 hours the next day via Laguna. It has never been easy but it was definitely possible even at 74. After a night in the O Cebreiro albergue it is down to Triacastela to spend the next night and on to Samos the following day. The views are always amazing, especially in snow.

MM

 

[Dave Kingsella]

My opinion:

The Samos Monastery is cold and not that comfortable.
That said, the walk from Samos to Sarria is gorgeous and one of my favorite stretches.

The walk UP to O Cebreiro is not that difficult if you take it in two stages.
There are plenty of places to stay between Vega del Valcarce and O Cebreiro.
La Faba is a sweet place to stay and is a parochial.
Laguna has a lovely albergue, with good food and comfie beds.
It is a private, but is affordable. You could stay there and walk over the top of O Cebreiro next day and part way down.

It's also possible to rent a horse to take you up the hill.

I'm 62 and walked it several times.
The descent is not difficult at all, in my opinion.
To me, it was a very gentle descent, compared to the one into Roncesvalles.
I walked it last year and enjoyed every step.

Thank you Ann for your quick response. I'm doing this pilgrimage for religious purposes. I'm Catholic and my spirituality is Benedictine with my Patron being St. Benedict so the Monastery has a special appeal for me. That said, I suppose I could spend time there, yet stay in a nearby albergue. I will arrive in Madrid around 7am and then plan to take a Ryanair flight to Santiago and then back track to Sarria via bus and then another bus on to Samos. I haven't looked at it too closely, but figured it would be reasonable to expect to arrive in Samos early afternoon?

With regards to a start in O' Cebreiro...I was thinking of starting there, not climbing up to it. Are you suggesting the town where I would stay the night before the start of my walk is actually before a climb that precedes the descent? Also, would it be easier, transportation wise, to start in Samos vs. O' Cebreiro?

Unfortunately, I do not have the perspective to compare the descent from O' Cebreiro to Roncesvalles as I've never walked either. I'm comparing it to hikes I've done here in the Pacific Northwest in places like the Mt. Hood National Forest and the Columbia River Gorge. I've done descents of anywhere from 600 - 1,000 ft and while doable with trekking poles, there were not over such short distances. Again, not the best knees/ankles although not that bad either. I'm only 46.

-Dave

 

[Dave Kingsella]

We stayed in Las Herrerias in an albergue run by a guy from Chicago and his Spanish wife, basic but good, vegetarian dinner and a good breakfast. Its not that tough a walk up to O Cebreiro if you take your time. After a rest stop there we walked on down as far as Fonfria and stayed in an albergue run by a Brazilian family, big roomy and warm and with good food. This was the only albergue we stayed in where you had to pay for WIFI. This was approx a 20km day and coming down is not as steep as coming down from the Cruz de Ferro. All in all not a bad day.

Thank you Wayfarer. Always looking for recommendations on good rest stops and albergues. Particularly in towns in between the popular stops in the Brielrey guide. If I start in Samos it seems that Sarria would be too soon to stop for the day and would put me on course to stop each day in between the stops suggested in the guide I just referenced.

 

[Dave Kingsella]

When there's a steep descent it's usually "up' AND "down". If you find the descent a problem take the road! It may be longer but it usually ONLY goes down. As for where to start I'd choose O Cebreiro over Samos, JUST for the church.

Not sure my knees would appreciate the pavement anymore than the descents, but I'll consider the tip and play by ear once I'm there.

 

[Dave Kingsella]

In the past years I have climbed O Cebreiro eight times stopping at Ruitelan the night before and then walking up 5 1/2 hours the next day via Laguna. It has never been easy but it was definitely possible even at 74. After a night in the O Cebreiro albergue it is down to Triacastela to spend the next night and on to Samos the following day. The views are always amazing, especially in snow.

MM

Mspath, at 74 you certainly are an inspiration! My father just turned 70 and I would love to do this with him, but don't know if he's up to it due to some health concerns (diabetes). Actually he'd love to do it, but my mother has sort of put the kibosh on it.

Won't be able to enjoy the views in the snow as I'll be making my Camino from 8/30 - 9/10. Which brings up another question. What should I expect with regards to weather. Looking at the averages, it does not appear that it will be too extreme. I would favor cooler temperatures to hotter ones. Daytime low to mid 70's are ideal for me. This time of year should I plan to pack a fleece and at least one long sleeve tech shirt? What about rain? I'm trying to hit it after the weather cools, but before the rain sets in.

-Dave

 

[mspath]

Dave,

At the beginning of September I doubt that you would need a fleece. However a long sleeve tech shirt is a GREAT idea. Be prepared for rain anytime in Galicia and when it rains it often pours.

Happy planning,

Margaret Meredith

 

[indyinmaine]

Mspath, at 74 you certainly are an inspiration! My father just turned 70 and I would love to do this with him, but don't know if he's up to it due to some health concerns (diabetes). Actually he'd love to do it, but my mother has sort of put the kibosh on it.

Won't be able to enjoy the views in the snow as I'll be making my Camino from 8/30 - 9/10. Which brings up another question. What should I expect with regards to weather. Looking at the averages, it does not appear that it will be too extreme. I would favor cooler temperatures to hotter ones. Daytime low to mid 70's are ideal for me. This time of year should I plan to pack a fleece and at least one long sleeve tech shirt? What about rain? I'm trying to hit it after the weather cools, but before the rain sets in.

-Dave

Dave,
It really depends on how limiting your father's diabetes is. I walked all but about 60 km from SJPP to Santiago last fall, including taking the road instead of the path to O Cebreiro and I'm in above average health at 82 (83 next week!).

 

[Anniesantiago]

Thank you Ann for your quick response. I'm doing this pilgrimage for religious purposes. I'm Catholic and my spirituality is Benedictine with my Patron being St. Benedict so the Monastery has a special appeal for me. That said, I suppose I could spend time there, yet stay in a nearby albergue. I will arrive in Madrid around 7am and then plan to take a Ryanair flight to Santiago and then back track to Sarria via bus and then another bus on to Samos. I haven't looked at it too closely, but figured it would be reasonable to expect to arrive in Samos early afternoon?

With regards to a start in O' Cebreiro...I was thinking of starting there, not climbing up to it. Are you suggesting the town where I would stay the night before the start of my walk is actually before a climb that precedes the descent? Also, would it be easier, transportation wise, to start in Samos vs. O' Cebreiro?

Unfortunately, I do not have the perspective to compare the descent from O' Cebreiro to Roncesvalles as I've never walked either. I'm comparing it to hikes I've done here in the Pacific Northwest in places like the Mt. Hood National Forest and the Columbia River Gorge. I've done descents of anywhere from 600 - 1,000 ft and while doable with trekking poles, there were not over such short distances. Again, not the best knees/ankles although not that bad either. I'm only 46.

-Dave

Dave. When do you leave? I am from Portland, also and will be home the last week of the month. I'm in CA right now. I would be happy to sit down over a cup of coffee and go through your guidebook with info and tips if you wish. Let me know.

If the Monastery has meaning for you, by all means stay there. There are also many other opportunities for lodging in Samos.

When do you leave?

 

[Dave Kingsella]

Dave. When do you leave? I am from Portland, also and will be home the last week of the month. I'm in CA right now. I would be happy to sit down over a cup of coffee and go through your guidebook with info and tips if you wish. Let me know.

If the Monastery has meaning for you, by all means stay there. There are also many other opportunities for lodging in Samos.

When do you leave?

Annie,

I am planning to fly out 8/30 and returning 9/10. I don't have tons of vacation time so I was thinking I'd take advantage of labor day. I'd love to grab a cup of coffee and get some tips from a veteran...thanks for the offer! If I can figure out how to do so I can PM you my email address.

-Dave

 

[Anniesantiago]

Annie,

I am planning to fly out 8/30 and returning 9/10. I don't have tons of vacation time so I was thinking I'd take advantage of labor day. I'd love to grab a cup of coffee and get some tips from a veteran...thanks for the offer! If I can figure out how to do so I can PM you my email address.

-Dave

I tried email you mine but I'm having a heck of a time with this website. I can't even post without choosing "reply," posting nothing, then going back and editing my post to write it. I was unable to post a PM. I'll keep trying.

 

[OLDBIKERIDER]

To send a private message, go to the top of the WEB PAGE (I am not using an app) and click on "Private Conversations", start typing Anniesantiago and it will find her, then type and send your message. I have used it a few times and as far as I can tell it is just between the two of you. Buen Camino!

 

[Dave Kingsella]

To send a private message, go to the top of the WEB PAGE (I am not using an app) and click on "Private Conversations", start typing Anniesantiago and it will find her, then type and send your message. I have used it a few times and as far as I can tell it is just between the two of you. Buen Camino!

Thank you!

 

[CISSA69]

Use extended walking poles and compression shin guards (as used by triathletes eg Skins, Compression Sports ..... ). O'Ceberrio is very steep and you are likely to pick up an injury such as tendonitis, sprained ankle, as it is your first day and are not likely to have the fitness and or the knowledge to deal effectively with the terrain .....

 

[titasanz]

I'm still waffling between starting my trek in O' Cebreiro or Samos. I would really like to stay the night in the Samos Monastery, but O' Cebreiro looks beautiful and I don't think it necessarily makes sense to make Samos a stay over if I start in O' Cebreiro. Also, I'm a bit intimidated to start my with such a descent coming out of O' Cebreiro. Not sure I should take that on without first getting my legs.

I would love to hear the thoughts of others who are more familiar with the terrain. I've read differing descriptions...2,000 ft over 3 miles, 2,000 ft over 6 miles...not sure exactly though it looks like the steepest descent is near the end before Triacastela.

Would appreciate any feedback offered. Thanks!

-Dave

Hi Dave! If I were you I'd start in Samos, it is such a beautiful place, it would be a shame to miss. Going up O Cebreiro is hard but I had done SJPP to Roncesvalles, so it didn't seem so hard, it's mostly boring and lonely but not that hard.
No doubt, Samos!

 

[jimtim]

I'm still waffling between starting my trek in O' Cebreiro or Samos. I would really like to stay the night in the Samos Monastery, but O' Cebreiro looks beautiful and I don't think it necessarily makes sense to make Samos a stay over if I start in O' Cebreiro. Also, I'm a bit intimidated to start my with such a descent coming out of O' Cebreiro. Not sure I should take that on without first getting my legs.

I would love to hear the thoughts of others who are more familiar with the terrain. I've read differing descriptions...2,000 ft over 3 miles, 2,000 ft over 6 miles...not sure exactly though it looks like the steepest descent is near the end before Triacastela.

Would appreciate any feedback offered. Thanks!

-Dave

greetings,

it's 8/18, the countdown is ticking... anticipation, nerves and excitement are fluttering the belly and mind!

of course one wants to be careful about imposing expectations, but if you feel a spiritual resonance with the benedictine monastery - that is where you should begin. period. hands down. your heart is already open to the place and embracing that sensibility is a good way to begin your pilgrimage.

o cebreiro - personally i'm not a fan. as you know it's "the highest point of the camino" and as such, a popular destination and a bit of a tourist trap. i've been there twice. it's a beautiful stone village but i spent most of my time (the night i stayed) with my back to it watching clouds, mist and sun play upon the mountains. this time of year the ferns turn russet and the grape leaves change making vineyards vibrant and there's no end to the beauty - but you will see that beauty in many places. it does not have to be there. my nicest memories of o cebreiro are from a couple years earlier stopping for coffee and snacks and chatting, then moving on.

a favor? some time deep in galicia would you pick up a handful of eucalyptus pods and inhale them deeply for me?

wishing you a meaningful journey,

jim

 

[indyinmaine]

Dave,

I see you're about to leave in less than two weeks. Let us know how it worked out. Buen Camino.

 

[Luka]

I agree with jimtim. Besides, you won't get a bed in the albergue if you start in O Cebreiro.