Combined Guide Info for Camino Primitivo

[ebrandt]

Hi All,

My husband and I are planning to walk the Camino Primitivo next June (2015). We like to average about 25k/day. It looks like this will require us to be pretty intentional on the Primitivo so we don't get "out of sync" with the albergues. We like to stay primarily in albergues because we love the fellowship and simplicity. Neither of us has great fluency in Spanish so calling for reservations can pose problems!. I also don't want to carry multiple guides with me and the available things on the web and in hard copy all seem different.

We really want to be electronic free for our walk. We will be carrying an iPad Mini so we can communicate with kids while walking but we don't want to be getting on the web, FB, etc. unless absolutely necessary. We did not carry electronics on our Camino Frances and we did not miss them. The problem is that the presence of wifi has meant that the internet cafes are becoming fewer and further between. They are often old, clunky and difficult to use. Some were using such an out of date version of Windows that I couldn't even access my gmail account. And I have a feeling the Primitivo will have fewer and less up to date cafes!

We wanted to have something similar to the Brierly guide for our a walk. I have been collecting info from this forum, the Confraternity of St. James Guide and the Cicerone Press Guide on the Northern Caminos. I've put together our own guide to carry on the walk that is divided into the stages we think are doable and that combines the info from the sources I mentioned. So I thought I would share. I'd love any comments correcting or updating info in my guide! Thanks to the Confraternity, Cicerone, Eroski and Gronze for all their information.

Finally this is a work in progress. I am trying to figure out whether we can walk from Lugo to Santiago via Sobrado without walking a couple of really long days and/or adding an extra day. Any info about this route would be appreciated. I'll try to update this as I get more info. Also, I would be happy to send a version in Word so you can add your own notes. I have noted historical things we are interested in. And I have noted info about the albergues that is important to us (ie a kitchen, and laundry facilities but not telephone ## since we won't have a phone).

Liz

 

[Old Hillwalker]

Dear Liz, What a wonderful piece of work you created. Thank you so very much. I am walking the Camino Aragones from Pau, and then jumping over to the Primitivo to finish. I begin on August 27th. When I return home I will let you know how your guide fared.
Tom

 

[ebrandt]

Thanks Tom, I would love to get your feedback. I hope you have a lovely walk!

 

[Rajy62]

Hi All,

My husband and I are planning to walk the Camino Primitivo next June (2015). We like to average about 25k/day. It looks like this will require us to be pretty intentional on the Primitivo so we don't get "out of sync" with the albergues. We like to stay primarily in albergues because we love the fellowship and simplicity. Neither of us has great fluency in Spanish so calling for reservations can pose problems!. I also don't want to carry multiple guides with me and the available things on the web and in hard copy all seem different.

We wanted to have something similar to the Brierly guide for our a walk. I have been collecting info from this forum, the Confraternity of St. James Guide and the Cicerone Press Guide on the Northern Caminos. I've put together our own guide to carry on the walk that is divided into the stages we think are doable and that combines the info from the sources I mentioned. So I thought I would share. I'd love any comments correcting or updating info in my guide! Thanks to the Confraternity, Cicerone, Eroski and Gronze for all their information.

Liz

I wish you had done this when i started my Norte/ Primitivo in June. I had to do similar staging for my walk to keep the distance under 25k. Depending on the timing, avoiding booking it difficult. Alberques were getting full already in June. You can take a look at my impressions and staging here....
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...mitivo-may-25-june-27-2014.27811/#post-228119

 

[ebrandt]

Thanks for the info on your staging. I'll share it with a friend who plans to walk the Norte next spring!

 

[jnoval]

Liz, thanks for the guide. It is very helpful to have all the info gathered in one spot. My wife, son, and myself will be going in June of 2015 as well. We plan to leave the US on June 11, 2015 and start walking on either Saturday or Sunday (13th and 14th respectively). I too have been switching between the different sites and forums that show the different stages to get a better idea of what's available as far as accommodations and food. I have been using a guide that I bought in Spain in 2010 (Guia del Camino Norte de Santiago para peregrinos-Anton Pombo) and it has been helpful but I imagine some of the details might be outdated. Again, your guide is very helpful.

One thing that does stand out is that everyone has the same opinion of the albergue in La Mesa (Stage 6). Basically, skip it. It is filthy, no services, moldy, etc. and the previous people that ran it did not really put much effort into it. I just read a comment on Eroski-http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-de-peregrinos-de-la-mesa#rc-comentarios, stating that the people that ran it have lost the license to run it and maybe the new care takers will do a better job. So, the advice is to stay in Berducedo. The albergue fills up quickly but is nice. Also there is a private albergue as well that is a bit expensive. Anything better than staying in La Mesa. Buen camino and maybe we'll meet along the way.

 

[ebrandt]

jnoval -- Thanks for the feedback. I too have read the comments about the albergue at La Mesa. The Eroski stages suggest going to La Mesa, but we plan to stop at Berducedo also. I have revised the guide to add a comment about the La Mesa Albergue (that is is rated badly and may even be closed). Once I get a bit more input I'll upload a new version of the guide for folks.

We are flying to London on June 5, 2015 and then to Santiago on June 7. We plan to take the bus to Oviedo on the 7th or the 8th depending on timing and start walking on the 8th or the 9th of June. So we will be a few days ahead of you on the Primitivo!

Liz

 

[ebrandt]

Actually, I decided to just upload a revised edition now with the new comments about the La Mesa Albergue. Also we plan to walk to Muxia and Finnisterre. We are not sure which order, so I have that route staged out going to Muxia first and to Finnisterre first. But the guide now includes our stages for that walk too. Can anyone tell how much I want to be walking??? The next 10 months will be torture!

 

[peregrina2013]

Hi Liz

Thank so much for posting your guide. I have been gathering similar information for the Primitivo, starting this August 30th in Oviedo, collecting both Spanish and English language information. Unfortunately, I was not able to make a consice guide yet! I appreciate your revised guide as I am also planning to walk to Muxia (unfortunately, the chapel has burned down last December) I have a bit less time than last year's Frances where I had 5 weeks- I only have 3 weeks. Enjoy the training until next year! Buen Camino!

 

[ivar]

This is great! Maybe you could also upload it to the Camino Resource section as well?
Here maybe?
http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/categories/other-guides.27/
Look for the "Add Resource" button top right to get started.

Thanks again!
Ivar

 

[ebrandt]

I'll be happy to upload this. Liz

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Hi All,

My husband and I are planning to walk the Camino Primitivo next June (2015). We like to average about 25k/day. It looks like this will require us to be pretty intentional on the Primitivo so we don't get "out of sync" with the albergues. We like to stay primarily in albergues because we love the fellowship and simplicity. Neither of us has great fluency in Spanish so calling for reservations can pose problems!. I also don't want to carry multiple guides with me and the available things on the web and in hard copy all seem different.

We really want to be electronic free for our walk. We will be carrying an iPad Mini so we can communicate with kids while walking but we don't want to be getting on the web, FB, etc. unless absolutely necessary. We did not carry electronics on our Camino Frances and we did not miss them. The problem is that the presence of wifi has meant that the internet cafes are becoming fewer and further between. They are often old, clunky and difficult to use. Some were using such an out of date version of Windows that I couldn't even access my gmail account. And I have a feeling the Primitivo will have fewer and less up to date cafes!

We wanted to have something similar to the Brierly guide for our a walk. I have been collecting info from this forum, the Confraternity of St. James Guide and the Cicerone Press Guide on the Northern Caminos. I've put together our own guide to carry on the walk that is divided into the stages we think are doable and that combines the info from the sources I mentioned. So I thought I would share. I'd love any comments correcting or updating info in my guide! Thanks to the Confraternity, Cicerone, Eroski and Gronze for all their information.

Finally this is a work in progress. I am trying to figure out whether we can walk from Lugo to Santiago via Sobrado without walking a couple of really long days and/or adding an extra day. Any info about this route would be appreciated. I'll try to update this as I get more info. Also, I would be happy to send a version in Word so you can add your own notes. I have noted historical things we are interested in. And I have noted info about the albergues that is important to us (ie a kitchen, and laundry facilities but not telephone ## since we won't have a phone).

Liz

You will be fine, lots of nationalities on camino and English the language of choice in most places. I never had any problems, I walked mid May this year. The mountain hospitales route from Campielo to Berducedo is 27 km. No place in between but it's most spectacular . Not hard but be prepared. Buen camino

 

[ebrandt]

Once more! I promise to not keep making changes. I have included more information primarily for the Camino Finisterre/Muxia. Liz

 

[OzAnnie]

Once more! I promise to not keep making changes. I have included more information primarily for the Camino Finisterre/Muxia. Liz

Wow ebrandt
This is wonderful. Thank you.

 

[annakappa]

Hello Liz.
This is really the best compiled guide/ information compiled for the Camino Primitivo that I have so far seen. Well done. You have managed to fit in a very confined space an incredible amount of information. For me, the only detail missing would be phone numbers, but if anyone is seriously interested, once they print out the pages, they could do their own research and add phone numbers, when necessary. ( this is what I usually do when making up my personal guide)! Kudos! Anne

 

[ebrandt]

Anne -- I started this just for our own use so I left the phone numbers out. When it grew and I decided to share it, I thought about going back and adding them, and I may do so at some point, but it was a bit too much at the moment. Working on this bit by bit is feeding my desire to get back to Spain and walk again!! Liz

 

[annakappa]

Liz, if someone is interested and prints out your guide, they can easily add phone numbers! No need to do all the work for us! Anne

 

[Juanma]

Nice job ebrandt! Very useful for many future pilgrims!

May I make some comments on the part I best know in the Camino, which is the one before and after my albergue?:

- Stage 10, 2.4: the name of the place is San Vicente do Burgo, not the opposite The bar there is called As Searas, and yes, you can have a consistent and yummy breakfast there! It is about 150m from the Camino, even though the sign says "50m".

- Stage 10, 4.2: the name of the "town" is San Pedro de Mera, not the opposite But most importantly: Taberna Rodrigo is most of the time closed; you should not trust on eating/drinking solely at this place between Lugo and Ferreira, as chances are you will find it closed. Also, I have been told by several pilgrims that in this place they inform every pilgrim that the Primitivo goes to Palas de Rei and not Melide, recommending them to take a detour from somewhere near San Roman towards Palas de Rei; the problem is that they quite often actually convince some pilgrims and make them walk to Palas, away from the Primitivo route, and 100% by narrow roads where drivers do not expect to find pilgrims at all (danger!).
The name of the "town" is not "Crescente" but "Crecente", and there is a nice restaurant there called Mesón de Crecente, where you can have lunch (you'll finish up very full, so be carefull at ordering!). Nice food and nice people working there. It is about 150 to 200m from the Camino, even though the sign says "100m".

- Stage 10, 4.1: Ponte Ferreira, our albergue The number of beds is now down to 26, and the price up to 11€. Washing machine and sandwhiches are available, yes, as also are lunch, dinner and breakfast, wifi, heating in the cold days, bar with terrace, fountain for washing your clothes by hand and/or dipping your feet if it's a hot day, etc...

- Stage 11, 2.1: public albergue in As Seixas is 6€, not 5€. And as far as I know, they don't have a bar. They do have a nice kitchen that the pilgrim can use though. Very nice albergue, and nice hospitaleras (Marifé and Ana).

- Stage 11: a new rural house should now be added here, about 1km afterthe public albergue in As Seixas. It is called Casa Camino and you can find info on their website: www.casacamino.es. The owners are a British couple, very nice and friendly, called Kim and Sue. As far as I know, they have especial prices for pilgrims, both in food and lodging.

- Stage 11, 4.7: as far as I know, most private albergues in Melide are these days priced at 10€. Don't take my word for granted here, though.

- Stage 11, 5.7: Albergue Boente has now increased the number of beds; I think they are somewhere around 40 or 50 now, but I can't remember exactly; for what I've just seen, they have not updated this information of the main Spanish online camino guides yet...


That was all! Again, great job, and thank you for it!

 

[peregrina2000]

I stayed at the albergue in Boente right after it opened a few years ago. In fact, we got the card for it at the Ponte Ferreira albergue (before you took over Juanma). I was walking through this June and thought I'd stop for a coffee. The owner recognized me and asked me if I wanted a tour. They have increased the number of beds by taking over the building next door, I think it's a total of 56, but he told me that they rarely use that side except in August.
But the other improvement is that they now have a swimming pool out back, small but surely very welcome on hot summer days!

 

[ebrandt]

Juanma -- Thank you so much for the corrections and new helpful info. I will make changes and incorporate in my guide and repost! Liz

 

[Juanma]

Yes peregrina2000, I forgot to mention the swimming pool! As far as I know, the building next door that they used to increase the albergue's capacity was already theirs; they just did not transform it into an albergue from the beginning, I guess, because of keeping the investment low at the beginning.

ebrandt, if I see anything else to help with in your guide, I will let you know! My pleasure!

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

Nice work. Regarding La Mesa, it is open. I stayed there last night. It was really dirty when I came. The pilgrims had left a lot of rubbish everywhere and as they had left the door open a lot of things from an outside trashcan had blown inside. Some pilgrims removed the rubbish and when the hospitaliera came at 1900 she cleaned the rest (I was just about to start to sweep the floors when she came). I think the problem is that the hospitaliera comes late and don't have time to clean between visiting groups. The albergue is open 24 h. It doesn't have any running water in the kitchen so a lot of people was doing the dishes in the same place as we washed our clothes. I had to remove spaghetti from there.

 

[jnoval]

Nice work. Regarding La Mesa, it is open. I stayed there last night. It was really dirty when I came. The pilgrims had left a lot of rubbish everywhere and as they had left the door open a lot of things from an outside trashcan had blown inside. Some pilgrims removed the rubbish and when the hospitaliera came at 1900 she cleaned the rest (I was just about to start to sweep the floors when she came). I think the problem is that the hospitaliera comes late and don't have time to clean between visiting groups. The albergue is open 24 h. It doesn't have any running water in the kitchen so a lot of people was doing the dishes in the same place as we washed our clothes. I had to remove spaghetti from there.

I had read that this is a good albergue to skip as it is notoriously dirty and unkempt. You have just confirmed my suspicions. Would it be better to stay at Berducedo and the next day have a longer walk to Grandas de Salime? Or does Buspol have any accommodations? Thx n buen camino, peregrina.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I had read that this is a good albergue to skip as it is notoriously dirty and unkempt. You have just confirmed my suspicions. Would it be better to stay at Berducedo and the next day have a longer walk to Grandas de Salime? Or does Buspol have any accommodations? Thx n buen camino, peregrina.

Berucedo go Grand as de Salime was an easy walk but with a lots of down down down. 20 km. There is a hotel in Embalse de Salime 5.6 km before Grandas de Salime if you need a shorter walk.

 

[ebrandt]

Beatrice -- thanks for the info about La Mesa -- I'll include it. Liz

 

[peregrina2000]

Looks like you're getting great recent info, Liz. I think staying in Berducedo is preferable to taking a risk in La Mesa, and if you're not against reservations, you can call the private place and reserve (though some have told me the private albergue option in Berducedo does not have a great price/value ratio -- the people who run it also have private rooms available, and I'm not sure if they are any better).

About the descent to the dam -- I've done it twice, once at the end of a very long day starting near Pola de Allande, which made it one of the longest days I've ever walked. On that camino, I thought the descent was interminable, hard, excruciating. But then a few years ago, I started in Berducedo and the descent seemed like a piece of cake in comparison to what I remembered. So I have no doubt that doing the descent at the start of the day makes it a lot more bearable.

And the hotel on the way up from the dam is a great stop, at least for a nice drink on the terrace. People who have stayed there give good reports, too.

I know that the albergue in Grandas has recently changed hands and has a new hospitalero -- if you've seen anything about the short film on the three hospitalero "personalities" on the Primitivo -- Alex at Bodenaya, the truck driver at San Juan whose first name I forget, and the hospitalero at Grandas, well the one at Grandas has been replaced, I've been told.

I have no idea why, but any recent reports on how the albergue is under new management would be appreciated!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[ebrandt]

Hi Laurie, Thanks for the updates and the video -- I hadn't seen it. Working on this guide has been fun. If not for family and work I would have been back in Spain walking this summer. I have had to satisfy myself with shorter walks that are closer to home. This past weekend we did a day hike into the Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness area in Idaho that was spectacular but oh so steep! Hopefully its helping get us in shape for the Primitivo in June. We also plan to walk three days between missions on the California Mission Trail at Thanksgiving (probably from Sonoma to San Rapheal) and then we will have to see after that. But working on this guide has been feeding my need to be back in Spain and kept me (and my dear husband) sane because it has given me a focus for my energy and need to plan! Liz

 

[Orafo]

Hi All,

My husband and I are planning to walk the Camino Primitivo next June (2015). We like to average about 25k/day. It looks like this will require us to be pretty intentional on the Primitivo so we don't get "out of sync" with the albergues. We like to stay primarily in albergues because we love the fellowship and simplicity. Neither of us has great fluency in Spanish so calling for reservations can pose problems!. I also don't want to carry multiple guides with me and the available things on the web and in hard copy all seem different.

We really want to be electronic free for our walk. We will be carrying an iPad Mini so we can communicate with kids while walking but we don't want to be getting on the web, FB, etc. unless absolutely necessary. We did not carry electronics on our Camino Frances and we did not miss them. The problem is that the presence of wifi has meant that the internet cafes are becoming fewer and further between. They are often old, clunky and difficult to use. Some were using such an out of date version of Windows that I couldn't even access my gmail account. And I have a feeling the Primitivo will have fewer and less up to date cafes!

We wanted to have something similar to the Brierly guide for our a walk. I have been collecting info from this forum, the Confraternity of St. James Guide and the Cicerone Press Guide on the Northern Caminos. I've put together our own guide to carry on the walk that is divided into the stages we think are doable and that combines the info from the sources I mentioned. So I thought I would share. I'd love any comments correcting or updating info in my guide! Thanks to the Confraternity, Cicerone, Eroski and Gronze for all their information.

Finally this is a work in progress. I am trying to figure out whether we can walk from Lugo to Santiago via Sobrado without walking a couple of really long days and/or adding an extra day. Any info about this route would be appreciated. I'll try to update this as I get more info. Also, I would be happy to send a version in Word so you can add your own notes. I have noted historical things we are interested in. And I have noted info about the albergues that is important to us (ie a kitchen, and laundry facilities but not telephone ## since we won't have a phone).

Liz

Liz, this looks great! What a wonderful contribution. I would love to have a Word version if you care to send on. Should I send you my e-mail address, or can you post it in that format? I am leaving on September 20 to walk the Salvador and Primitivo combination, thence on to Santiago and Finisterre/Muxía.

Best,

Frank

 

[ebrandt]

Hi Frank -- For some reason I had trouble uploading the Word document and I just tried to attach it to this post and couldn't. If you message me your email, I'll send you my latest Word draft. To message click my pic and then choose start a conversation from the little pop-up window. Liz

 

[Veronika_CZ]

Hi All,

My husband and I are planning to walk the Camino Primitivo next June (2015). We like to average about 25k/day. It looks like this will require us to be pretty intentional on the Primitivo so we don't get "out of sync" with the albergues. We like to stay primarily in albergues because we love the fellowship and simplicity. Neither of us has great fluency in Spanish so calling for reservations can pose problems!. I also don't want to carry multiple guides with me and the available things on the web and in hard copy all seem different.

We really want to be electronic free for our walk. We will be carrying an iPad Mini so we can communicate with kids while walking but we don't want to be getting on the web, FB, etc. unless absolutely necessary. We did not carry electronics on our Camino Frances and we did not miss them. The problem is that the presence of wifi has meant that the internet cafes are becoming fewer and further between. They are often old, clunky and difficult to use. Some were using such an out of date version of Windows that I couldn't even access my gmail account. And I have a feeling the Primitivo will have fewer and less up to date cafes!

We wanted to have something similar to the Brierly guide for our a walk. I have been collecting info from this forum, the Confraternity of St. James Guide and the Cicerone Press Guide on the Northern Caminos. I've put together our own guide to carry on the walk that is divided into the stages we think are doable and that combines the info from the sources I mentioned. So I thought I would share. I'd love any comments correcting or updating info in my guide! Thanks to the Confraternity, Cicerone, Eroski and Gronze for all their information.

Finally this is a work in progress. I am trying to figure out whether we can walk from Lugo to Santiago via Sobrado without walking a couple of really long days and/or adding an extra day. Any info about this route would be appreciated. I'll try to update this as I get more info. Also, I would be happy to send a version in Word so you can add your own notes. I have noted historical things we are interested in. And I have noted info about the albergues that is important to us (ie a kitchen, and laundry facilities but not telephone ## since we won't have a phone).

Liz

Dear Liz,

Last Friday me and my three friends finished our Camino Primitivo. We are from The Czech Republic and the information about Primitivo hardly exist in Czech. We found your guide and that was actually all we needed for our pilgrimage all the information was useful and it was also brief enough to carry it printed with us.

I was wondering that we could send you some improvements of the guide? Mainly concerning the equipment and quality of alberques. We also altered your stages a little bit.

Veronika

 

[ebrandt]

I was wondering that we could send you some improvements of the guide? Mainly concerning the equipment and quality of alberques. We also altered your stages a little bit.

Veronika

Veronika -- I would LOVE to get info -- I'll message you with my email or you can just post comments here! Thanks! Liz

 

[peregrina2013]

Liz's guide was my only resource as I walked and it was very good! I truly enjoyed being able to have one page to look at for the day, handy and accessible in a side pocket. A few items to add as you wish:
Albergues with kitchens: some more than others. Usually a full kitchen will not include a fridge or perhaps just a small one.
Sundays: limited services in the smaller towns. although there may be a bar, it could be closed. This was my experience. Grocery stores will close at 2pm also.
As Seixas public albergue, very new, kitchen. no grocery store but grocery truck comes at 4pm in front of the albergue and you can purchase enough to have a meal of pasta and wine! Restaurant charges are a bit generous compared to the average along the way.
Bodenaya and La Espina, only 1.2 km apart seem to all have donativo albergues. In La Espina, there is one located on the Camino as you almost exit town above Coviran grocery store (El Cruce). Very comfortable. Kitchen has microwave and pressure cooker. Carmen is a delight and will assist you to use the pressure cooker to make your meal, going into great details about the use, including the "beep beep" sound! You buy groceries in her store below!
Berducedo can get busy as there are limited accomodations with public at 10 places and private at 12. Additional space at the pension above the bar (shared 2 baths with about 6 rooms). All were full mid-September after the glorious mountain walk of the Hospitales.
Lugo: Roots and Boots private albergue- not a good experience for us. Private room with 2 beds and bath. No linens and very dirty, especially bath, which was continuously wet (I'll spare you more details!) On the Camino leaving the city so you either add mileage to go back to the old city or take a bus.

If this is useful, I can post more comments on our findings. We just returned in the last few days. We added the Finisterre, Muxia walk, returning by foot to Santiago (a bit more challenging for the first day out of Muxia- markings are less obvious in general but even less so when walking back!)

A beautiful experience, great views. Basic Spanish is essential as most speak only Castellano (the language learned as Spanish in North America) or Gallego in Galicia. The local folks are lovely and more than willing to help you in the right direction!

 

[ebrandt]

Peregrina2013 -- THANKS for the comments -- I will definately add to my guide and I may recontact you to get some specifics. Liz

 

[dorkings]

Hi All,

My husband and I are planning to walk the Camino Primitivo next June (2015). We like to average about 25k/day. It looks like this will require us to be pretty intentional on the Primitivo so we don't get "out of sync" with the albergues. We like to stay primarily in albergues because we love the fellowship and simplicity. Neither of us has great fluency in Spanish so calling for reservations can pose problems!. I also don't want to carry multiple guides with me and the available things on the web and in hard copy all seem different.

We really want to be electronic free for our walk. We will be carrying an iPad Mini so we can communicate with kids while walking but we don't want to be getting on the web, FB, etc. unless absolutely necessary. We did not carry electronics on our Camino Frances and we did not miss them. The problem is that the presence of wifi has meant that the internet cafes are becoming fewer and further between. They are often old, clunky and difficult to use. Some were using such an out of date version of Windows that I couldn't even access my gmail account. And I have a feeling the Primitivo will have fewer and less up to date cafes!

We wanted to have something similar to the Brierly guide for our a walk. I have been collecting info from this forum, the Confraternity of St. James Guide and the Cicerone Press Guide on the Northern Caminos. I've put together our own guide to carry on the walk that is divided into the stages we think are doable and that combines the info from the sources I mentioned. So I thought I would share. I'd love any comments correcting or updating info in my guide! Thanks to the Confraternity, Cicerone, Eroski and Gronze for all their information.

Finally this is a work in progress. I am trying to figure out whether we can walk from Lugo to Santiago via Sobrado without walking a couple of really long days and/or adding an extra day. Any info about this route would be appreciated. I'll try to update this as I get more info. Also, I would be happy to send a version in Word so you can add your own notes. I have noted historical things we are interested in. And I have noted info about the albergues that is important to us (ie a kitchen, and laundry facilities but not telephone ## since we won't have a phone).

Liz[/QUO
Dear liz, I am hoping to walk the Primitivo next May so your guide will be my guide!A work of many hours but very worthwhile best regards Robin Dorkings

 

[ebrandt]

HI Dorkings -- I thought I would let you know that the Guide is in the "Camino Resources" section of this forum where I have alco included updates. Liz

 

[ebrandt]

Berducedo can get busy as there are limited accomodations with public at 10 places and private at 12. Additional space at the pension above the bar (shared 2 baths with about 6 rooms). All were full mid-September after the glorious mountain walk of the Hospitales.

Peregrina2013, I have a question:

In Berducedo do you remember the name of the bar with the pension?

I'd love any other feedback you have!

Liz

 

[peregrina2013]

HI

The Pension/restaurant/bar is the Cafe Casa Marques. The rooms are quaint, a bit wonky and certainly not new but clean sheets and towels provided. Shared bath with washer available and laundry hanging outside. 25E for a double. I think a single was arournd 18E. After the day's walk, the accomodations were welcome! The serve a decent dinner too starting at 7pm.

I'll send more info as I review my journals!

 

[peregrina2000]

HI

The Pension/restaurant/bar is the Cafe Casa Marques. The rooms are quaint, a bit wonky and certainly not new but clean sheets and towels provided. Shared bath with washer available and laundry hanging outside. 25E for a double. I think a single was arournd 18E. After the day's walk, the accomodations were welcome! The serve a decent dinner too starting at 7pm.

I'll send more info as I review my journals!

Hi, peregrina,

Just wondering if this is the restaurant that used to be a fancy upscale place, now converted to a bar/restaurant that serves one plato del día for meals. I remember a bar area when you first walk in, then a seating area to the left. You can tell it used to be an upscale place because when the current owner got it, he got all of their fancy stemware, so there are rows and rows of pretty wine glasses behind the bar. Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2013]

I believe you are right. They do have a few Menu del Dia choices. The restaurant area does look slightly upscale compared to the rest!
Christine

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, this place has a nice story. The now owner is a fairly young guy, was unemployed and kind of desperate. His mom still lived in Berducedo, and she informed him that the fancy restaurant, which used to be called "La Culpa fue de María" (It´s Mary´s fault) (pictures still here on the web, though the place is closed). In Spain, apparently, you can take your entire unemployment payout in one lump sum, so long as you can convince the authorities that you have a valid business plan. So he was able to convince them and he bought the place. I was there the summer that he opened, and the arrangement was that his mom would cook the same thing every night for anyone who wanted it -- a typical plato del día with eggs, patatas fritas, maybe chorizo, etc. The fact that there are more items on the menu now suggest that he´s doing well.

I´ve seen some negative comments about the place on the internet on different forums -- my experience was totally positive, what about yours?

 

[Pelegrin]

I didn´t know that story, so he made a good investment, because the Primitivo is growing year by year. This summer he had a girl who helped him at the bar.
Same good investment made Mabel in her private albergue in Berducedo.

 

[JanaP]

Hi!

I would like to thank you very much for this guide you put together. I just got back from Spain, I've walked the Primitivo 14.-26.9. with my boyfriend.
We only printed your guide and it was really all we needed, although we were thinking about buying a guide in Spain. We altered the stages, but the information about albergues, shops etc. was very helpful! I promised myself I will make notes to our printed copy and offer you some updates from the personal experience when I get back.

Here comes, it will be a little longer I suppose

Stage 2
Grado - In the tourist information they told us that there are no longer any albergues in town. We stayed in a hotel Car-Bar (or Bar-Car?), which is on the main road that goes through the town )and the camino follows it also). 30 euro for double room.

Stage 3
Salas - Albergue La Campa - 8 euro for bunks, 10/person for private rooms. Friendly hospitalero and albergue with spirit in the center of Salas, which we probably liked most of the cities we have seen.

Stage 4
Tineo - The albergue is a little bit far from the city center if you want to visit it in the evening. Otherwise it was OK. There are washers, but no kitchen (coffee machine and microwave is available though).

Obona Monastery - We took the detour and it was quite close. But the bar and shop is probably in the village on the hill, so we only take a break at a picnic table in front of the monastery and got back to the camino

Campiello - We had a dinner in the first bar in the village - salad. The waitress asked us if we want one together and we did not understand why until she brought the plates. Hard to eat it all There is also the last shop before Hospitales route if you are planning on going there. No shop in Borres.

Stage 5
Borres - We stayed in the albergue as we wanted to go the Hospitales, but I had problems with my knees and wanted to have the shortest way possible. Not the brightest decision I made. Better stay in Campiello for night if possible, then have breakfast in the bar in Borres. The albergue is very simple, although I think the bathrooms were not that bad, probably renovated lately. 5 euro is the price. No kitchen, microwave only. Also cold water only. And very low number of beds. When we got there, one bed was free and two mattresses. So I took the bed and my BF took the mattress. Then we went to the bar (relatively far from the albergue, but very nice) to pay and get a stamp. When we got back, the mattress was taken by someone else, although my BF left his backpack on it. Our sole negative experience with other pilgrims

Berducedo - I will repeat what has already been said - all places taken when we got there. But we were lucky and other pilgrims stopped us and told us to go with them to Grandas de Salime by bus at 18.30 (then there is bus from Grandas to Berducedo at 6.30 in the morning). We did not see any shop in Berducedo, but it doesn't mean it isn't there We spend time waiting for the bus in the bar and it was nice.

Stage 6
Grandas de Salime - We stayed in the El Salvador Albergue and we liked it. There is kitchen, multiple bathrooms, washer (3e) and dryer (3e). The hospitalera was really nice, but only speaks spanish, so we had funny English-Spanish-Czech conversation about using the washer We were kind of lucky, because when we arrived, there were 4 beds left - in private 4-bed room for the same price (5e). Some pilgrims said that the big bedroom upstairs is not so pleasant with many beds very close to each other.
There is lot of private accommodation options in Grandas also. Also bars, cafés etc.

Stage 7
Cereixeira - The shop/bar is open from the morning. Don't miss it as there might be no other option to buy something up to A Fonsagrada.

Venta del Acebo - A lonely bar with friendly owner. You can get a stamp here. Also the guide says no food, but there was bread with ham and cheese and a cake when we arrived. Get there before 13, before the bar closes for siesta.

St. Barbara - Very nice picnic place by that little church. Get your break here before A Fonsagrada.

A Fonsagrada - Before the city, the camino splits to two ways (very visibly, but without explanation). Go right for Os Chaos albergue, go left for the city center and the other albergue (by the church).
Albergue Os Chaos - we stayed there as we were feeling reaaally tired that day. It is nice, with big kitchen, washer, dryer, bathrooms, everything new and clean. But very far from the city center and even more from the Dia supermarket - it is on the other side of town!

Stage 8
O Cadavo - I think all services needed are there. We stayed in the hotel that day as I had yet other health issues Very nice hotel on the main street, but you will pay 40 euro for double room.

Stage 9

Villabade - That picnic spot before the village is quite nice and has a water fountain.

Between Castroverde and Lugo - Not only Gondar, but also the two villages before have vending machines/coffee machines. But in Gondar they also have some tables and chair on the street, where you can sit with your can of Coca-Cola. Also, buy water from the machines if your supply is getting low. We have not seen any fountain we would be willing to drink from.

Lugo - The municipal albergue is well marked and inside the old city. There is no washer. Hostel Roots and Boots is way out of the city center, so I suggest to try the muni. first. Do your shopping in Lugo, as we did not met any stable shops all the way to Melide.

Stage 10
San Vincenzo - First pleasant stop point from Lugo. Picnic tables and water fountain at the beginning of the village. And the bar of course.

Santa Eulalia de Boveda - The detour is about 5 km total, there is tourist info point, but both the office and the church are closed on Mondays. The village is still worth the detour in my opinion. You can go past the church and follow brown arrows of the "Lugo agricultural route" for your way back. It connects nicely to the Camino at the church in Bacurín and is worth to try also.

San Roman - Try to get a place in the small, but lovely municipal albergue (the albergues are 50 metres from each other. The private one is not very nice, although it includes breakfast. No washer (the guide says it has one). Spare your money also by not going for private room - it is not much cleaner and our shower kind of leaked, so there was water on the bathroom floor all the time Don't be afraid to order a meal at the private albergue though (6 - 10 euro). But be prepared that the hospitalero goes for every order by car somewhere and gets back in 40 minutes or so. There is also a taberna when entering San Roman (a little bit far from the albergues), we have heard bad things about the food, but no self experience. Also there is NO shop in San Roman.

Stage 11
As Seixas - Very nice municipal albergue! If you come early, about 15-16, there is a shop-car that has surprisingly wide offer of goods that you can use to make yourself a dinner in the albergue's kitchen. There is also a private albergue + bar/restaurant. Other pilgrims said it is a bit pricey to eat there. We only had drinks at the bar.

Casa Camino - Offers rooms, meals and breakfasts - we only tried the last one.

Stage 12
Ribadiso da Baixo - This municipal albergue was probably the most atmospheric we have seen. If it is not cold (as the showers are "outside"), I would totally recommend it. Has kitchen (I have not studied how well equipped), washer, dryer. Also nice bar (there is computer with internet access and printer if you need to print out some tickets as we did).

Stage 13
O Pedrouzo - There was a huge problem with places in albergues and we did arrived abotu 15.00, so not so late. We stayed in the Penzion Pedrouzo in the end (30 euros for double room).

I hope you or others will find some of this at least a little bit helpful.

Buen camino,

Jana from Czech Republic

 

[Pelegrin]

Grado : hotel Auto Bar.
Berducedo: Yes, there is a shop/bar to buy food.
San Román: The Hospitalero goes to Lugo for the food , where he has a restaurant.

 

[Tia Valeria]

San Román:- the hospitalero took our washing into town in the afternoon and brought it back with the meal in the evening. Reasonable charge, but it would only work for those arriving early or who did not need their things back until next morning. It obviouslt depends on arrival time etc......if still available.
Great meal and good breakfast and we enjoyed our private room.
Is the wonderful old oven still in place upstairs? as well as the new wood burner downstairs.

 

[ebrandt]

Wow! Thanks Jana -- I have just gone through the Guide and made changes and included comments. Thanks to others also on bits of additional info!! Liz

 

[peregrina2013]

Hi
Laurie, my experience at the Café Casa Marques in Berducedo was very positive. The food was good, with options and the accommodations more than suitable for the price for a double. After the long walk, it seemed to be rather no nonsense and who ever complains about clean sheets and fresh towels! As Jana mentioned, the accommodations are limited there now as more walk the Primitivo and the Hospitales Route, which gets us to Berducedo after a fairly long day- absolutely amazing walking, views and some challenging bajadas (descents).

I´ve seen some negative comments about the place on the internet on different forums -- my experience was totally positive, what about yours

Grado...Hotel Auto Bar- nice private accommodations for a couple, reasonably priced at 30 E, small bath with coffin like shower(!!) but altogether welcoming with very good food if you choose to eat there. Our laundry was done without additional cost, by our host, and ready by 7ish in the morning in the basement. You go take it off the line - I assure you, it seems to be quite the system!
Negreira on the way to Finisterre- I enjoyed the Lua Albergue for its rather hippyish look but certainly for the steel door separating the dorm and common area. The dorm area was a respected quiet area. Hosts are very helpful. Not much of a kitchen but washer/dryer. On the way back and second time at the Albergue, (we did the loop from Santiago to Finisterre to Muxia and back to Santiago) we went to the Imperial Restaurant for a 8E menu del dia, great hosts, great food with substitutions (I had salad instead of fries). Certainly enough food to keep you going!
I cannot restate enough that the Roots and Boots Albergue in Lugo is almost out of town ( and poor according to me!). The pictures can be deceiving..you can read my earlier post about that one! I would stop at the Muni first- I heard from fellow Pilgrims it was OK but it also keeps you in the city centre if you wish to experience the architecture and the old city.
Enjoy the experience!