Well, here we are home again. Not "en Camino". These are just bits from my notes but might be of use to others who follow this route. There are occasionally challenging hills, but only hills, lots of forest paths and some protracted asphalt sections that do get tedious. Some may find the frequent motorway encounters irritating, we didn't; the impact on the landscape is spectacular.
The Beloved and I walked from Ferrol to Cee. Sea to sea you might say. We didn't make it to Fisterra this time, that final descent into Cee finished the Beloved. Blisters that appeared day one, despite her fitness, well broken shoes and all the usual care, done for her. Though she was still willing to do the final K's: we've been there before and ...
We were blessed by dry, frequently sunny, weather with mornings great for walking and afternoons good for laundry and relaxing. We relied on John's guide but Way marking throughout was really good, the only navigational challenge was met by a Camino Angel. An elderly gentleman hurried to catch us one morning and asked if we were going to Santaigo, when I said yes he replied " not this way you aren't" and pointed back to a turning we had missed.
We arrived in Ferrol on the FEVE from Oviedo a little after 2pm and therefore just in time for Ferrol to close down for lunch and siesta. We obtained a sello from the FEVE station ticket office, pilgrim friendly and willing to help. The walk to NEDA and the xunta albergue was easy, well marked and memorable for the impressive array of stinks and stenches from the mud exposed at low tide. We had to "espera" for the hospitialero who arrived a bit after 7:30. We gave up on finding somewhere to eat a meal in Neda and subsisted on tinto and tapas. There is a tienda in Neda and the albergue kitchen wasn't completely devoid of facilities. Day two was Neda to Minho. Great walking with a couple of challenging but not savage climbs though having lunched in Pontedueme the climb out of town with a full belly was a bit of a b*gger. Phoning the Guardia Civil to ask for access to the albergue felt odd but the women who arrived, uniformed but un-armed were very friendly. Day three; a shorty to Betanzos, laundry day. The xunta Albergue was amazing - lovely building, well equipped, loads of pots and pans, just no cooker only microwaves. Parque Passtiempo is well worth the visit. Day four - Betanzos to Bruma; a really enjoyable days walking. Bar Julia closed when we got there but responsive to some vigorous door rattling! the 350 metre climb that follows was again a "challenge" but the fuente at the picnic spot at the top even if "no potable" provides lovely cool water for a wash down and shade to recover. The albergue at Bruma is wonderful and to have an evening meal delivered (and cervieca €1 in the vending machine) even better. Day five -Bruma to Sigueiro - well actually to the Hotel San Vicente. Neither of us really fancied the Hostal Miras in Sigueiro having stopped for a drink and a bite to eat. The San Vicente is no great shakes either - expensive for what it is and a menu that was shameful by most standards. On the plus side it makes for an even easier walk into Santiago in the morning.
The Beloved had the chance to attend Sunday mass and to see the botofumerio swung, courtesy of a Danish walking group so rumour has it, and to collect a compostella from the Pilgrim Office. We were really impressed by the constant queues at the office. so many happy pilgrims.
We walked on Sunday afternoon through to Lombao and the Casa Raimonte run by the "delightful" Julian and Rosa (says
Brierley). He's not wrong, they were truly delightful people and the albergue (private) is one of the better of its ilk. Day six to Vilarserio private albergue and associated bar both pleasant. Day seven to Olveiroa. My note book reads: ' A tiny stone-built farming community - with 3 albergues, a couple of Casa Rurales, a Posada and 4 bars!". The Beloved and I did not go to Dumbria, and regretted the decision. Olveiroa was full of "party-people" ready to get to Finisterre and really let rip but ready to practice the night the night before. Probably just bad timing but the first time ever I've been woken in a xunta albergue at one in the morning by drunken "pilgs" trying to find their bunks. The walk from Olveiroa to Cee was very enjoyable though more forest than moor that we had expected and the water from the fuente at the Capilla San Pedro the best on the whole route. The cafe at Hospital though friendly is frankly expensive at €4.50 for a bocadillo of no great merit.
Highlights? Galicia in the sunshine, Santiago and the smiling throngs, the wonderful Beatrice Karjalainen whom we met along the way.
Low points? The absence of reasonable pilgrim friendly accommodation between Bruma and Santiago.
For those who have expressed interest in the Dumbria to Fisterra question that I opened this thread with - sorry guys we didn't test it. But I have now visited both ends of the link. There is a road junction just outside Dumbria, a few hundred metres before the turn off to the Albergue that has a sign to Buxantes. This is the road that intersects the Camino Fisterra at the crucerio at Marco de Couto where the camino is very clearly way-marked. The un-tested element is whether this is pleasant walking or not.
