Experience and advice (first 400k, May 2013)

[Luka]

I just got back from Spain. Walked the first part of the VdlP (until the weather got so bad I fled back to Sevilla). These are some of my notes about stages and albergues (good and bad):

Stage 1: Sevilla - Guillena (22k)
- I walked there on the 28th of April. On the 29th another pilgrim got robbed by two men with knives just before Guillena (see somewhere else on this forum). I hope this was an incident.
- I stayed in the albergue municipal. Everything was fine there. Different rooms of about three bunks each (if I remember well), small kitchen, wifi.

Stage 2: Guillena - Castilblanco de los Arroyos (18k)
- Stayed in the donativo albergue near the gas station. Nice volunteers, but a bit of a cramped dormitory with ten bunks, only two bathrooms (toilet and shower combined, saw this a lot, unhandy) and I had a cold shower, kitchen with equipment to cook.
- The next morning I heard the bikes of two pilgrims were stolen that night. A few days later I heard that the complete backpack of another pilgrim was stolen from the dormitory in the same week.

Stage 3: Castilblanco de los Arroyos - El Real de la Jara (43k, 27k walking)
- The first 16k is roadwalk. Beautiful surroundings and not a lot of traffic, but I decided to take a taxi to the entrance of the natural park. We were with the three of us and paid 25 euros in total (so a little over 8 each). I was happy with my decision for two more reasons. First, before you reach Almadén de la Plata there is a long and steep climb. I would have found this very hard if I would have walked almost 29k already. Second, I walked on to El Real de la Jara, which makes it a total of 27k walking. Otherwise you have to choose between walking 14k or 34k on day 3 (after walking 29 on day 2).
- El Real de la Jara is quite a boring village. I stayed in the albergue municipal (7 euros) which I found a bit depressive. Very dark, low ceiling. The biggest dorm is on the second floor which you can only reach from outside. There is a private albergue just 100 meters further, this one might be better.

Stage 4: El Real de la Jara - Monesterio (20k)
- The albergue parroquial is wonderful. Twelve beds divided over three rooms, big kitchen, terrace, very nice hospitalero.

 

[Luka]

Stage 5: Monesterio - Fuente de Cantos (21k)
- As far as I know there is only one albergue in Fuente de Cantos. It is private and it is wonderful. No idea why the father of the owner is touting along the way. It costs 15 euros. For that you get a hotel experience. Bedrooms for two, swimming pool, terrace, big kitchen, breakfast. If you arrive late you might have to stay in the dorm downstairs, which is also still quite alright.

Stage 6: Fuente de Cantos - Zafra (25k)
- I had to do this part by bus, because I was afraid I was developing shin splints. There are a lot of bus options along the first part of the VdlP by the way.
- There are two albergues in Zafra. One at the beginning of town from the Amigos de Santiago and one albergue turístico, very close to the center. They are both good options I think. I chose the albergue turístico. The building is wonderful, the beds are nice (sheets!) and I like it to stay close to the center of this lovely town. The other one has only one bathroom for about 22 beds. I found the hospitalero a bit agressive, telling me I have to stay there, because this was a real pilgrims albergue (in the other one were also only pilgrims staying at that moment).

Stage 7: Zafra - Villafranco de los Barros (19k)
- The owner of the albergue in Zafra is probably the brother of the owner of the albergue in Villafranco (albergue Carmen, there is at least one other albergue as well). He made reservations for everyone for albergue Carmen. No regrets, albergue Carmen was nice.

Stage 8: Villafranco de los Barros - Torremejía (27k)
- There are two albergues in Torremejía. A very beautiful albergue turístico and albergue rojo plata (the one that is advertising all the way). The first one is way more beautiful than the second one, I would say. It is a at the edge of town, next to the church.
- Torremejía is a strange, ugly village. Looking mostly like some cheap western movie. One long road full of bars.

 

[grayland]

I am enjoying this Luka.
Look forward to the balance of your VdlP experience.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Ditto everything Luka has said. The route really is spectacular. I'm tempted to go back down. The danged rain, wind, and cold has followed me to the Grances and looks like it is here for at least a week. I am depressed today. Weary of the cold wind. Feeling whiny. Lol. Where is the sun? If I knew, I would fly there!

 

[Luka]

@Annie, the grass is always greener? :wink:
The weather for Cáceres looks very nice the coming days, but it is a long way back...

Two pictures of the albergue in Fuente de Cantos...

 

[KinkyOne]

Thanks Luka! That's very helpful. I'm already updating my infos on albergues on VDLP.

Keep on!

 

[Luka]

Stage 9: Torremejía - Mérida (16k)
- A short stage, but you would miss out if you would skip Mérida. It is full of roman remains. You can buy a ticket for 12 euro to see all the different sites (you don't have to do this in one day).
- I heard the albergue municipal (along the river) was fine. I didn't stay there. I stayed two nights in Mérida in a very luxurous apartment (my treat to myself).

Stage 10: Mérida - Alcuéscar (36k of which 21 walked)
- The stage out of Mérida (to Aljucén) is very short (15k), if you combine the two stages it will be about 36k together, which is too much for me. To avoid a very long day in the very little village of Aljucén, I took the bus from Mérida to Aljucén and started walking from there to Alcuéscar.
- The albergue in Aljucén is rather small (I forgot the number of beds) and I heard several reports of it being full or a bit cramped. Some said it was a nice albergue, others didn't really like it. I haven't seen it.
- In Alcuéscar pilgrims can find a bed at the convent. Very much of a pilgrims feeling. It is donativo, they have resting hours from 14.30 till 16.30 (no one gets in or out, if you are in you have to be quiet) and serve a communal dinner around 19.30. The doors close at 21.00. There is a bar with terrace in front of the convent which serves food as well. The village itself is pretty boring.

 

[Luka]

Stage 11: Alcuéscar - Cáceres (37k, of which 26k walked)
- There is a albergue municipal in Valdesalor after 26k (I guess about 16 beds, in one dormitory). It is allright, but Valdesalor seemed a bit of a boring place to me, so I decided to take the bus to Cáceres (11k) and spend the night there. Very nice town, with a well-preserved medieval center.
- In Cáceres I stayed in the albergue turístico Las Veletas. It was 15 euros and it is very close to the center of town. They charge the same for a bed in a single or double room as in a (small) dorm, so you have to be lucky (or make reservations).

Stage 12: Cáceres - Casar de Cáceres (12k)
- A very short stage, but Casar is a nice village. They even have a little cheese museum (open until 14.00 if I remember well).
- The albergue municipal in the middle of town is free. It is good for the fact that it is free, but don't expect any luxury. There are 10 bunks in a small dorm (more or less divided in two). The bunks are very close together, and very close to the toilets as well. There might be noise in the town during the evening and night, so wear earplugs.

 

[piogaw]

hello luka,

thank you for all the info on the albergues on the camino de la plata and your stages of the camino. i really enjoy your description of the pueblos and cities. it brought back many wonderful memories of my camino this past winter,

thank you for sharing your thoughts with us.

god bless. hope you will continue soon your via de la plata journey.

 

[Luka]

Stage 13: Casar de Cáceres - Embalse de Alcántara (23k)
- There are more or less two options on this stage. Staying in the albergue turístico at the embalse or walking on to Cañaveral. I strongly recommend the first option. The albergue is very spacious and modern and the surroundings are beautiful. In Cañaveral your only option is Hostal Málaga, a dark and a bit depressive place with a grumpy owner (in our case). Plus the fact that Cañaveral would give you at least 10 extra kilometres to walk.
- The only downside of the albergue at the embalse is that there is nothing there, just the albergue. Which means that for food and drinks you are dependent on them (there are no cooking facilities, just a microwave and a toaster). They have a simple menu with ready-made food. So you might want to carry some things with you from the supermarket in Cáceres.

 

[skilsaw]

I'm glad the VDLP is working out for you.
After being afraid of shin splints, how are your legs holding up?
I love your photos. They trigger very warm memories and feelings from my pilgrimages on the VdlP.

I wonder how Anniesantiago is doing?

Buen Camino,
David, Victoria, Canada.

 

[colinwkay]

Hi Luka, just wanted to say thanks very much for your fantastic posts.
Very helpful to me that joins VDLP on Friday 07th June.
Thanks again take care Colin Scotland

 

[Luka]

@skilsaw Just saw your post. I am back home since almost two weeks now. Fortunately I haven't developed shin splints. One day of rest was enough. Annie left the VdlP long time ago for the Francés.

@all My pleasure!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Camino de Santiago Forum mobile app

 

[peregrino_tom]

- Torremejía is a strange, ugly village. Looking mostly like some cheap western movie. One long road full of bars.

Yes, excellent description! you look down nearly any street and you can see all the way through the town and into the hills on the other side, with just the odd hombre shuffling across an intersection. But it's not every day you get to be in a cheap western movie, so I quite liked that about it.
Great feedback by the way
cheers, tom

 

[gittiharre]

Thank you for your amazing description and pics, I have been contemplating this route for some time, it looks superb, Gitti

 

[Luka]

@tom, in Torremejía I had a constant big smile on my face, keeping saying to other pilgrims: 'Have you ever thought we would spend a long and warm afternoon in a village like this?!' It was just as it should be. We walked on and endless road and then we arrived in nowhere!

 

[marthas]

You sound like good company, Luka. I am thinking of doing the VDLP next spring and hope I run into others like you. I appreciate all the good info, too.

 

[Cejanus]

My brother and I will commence about April 4 next year. We may run into one another. I completed the Camino Frances April/May of this year. Thus will be my brother's first Camino.

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hi Luka, just wanted to say thanks very much for your fantastic posts.
Very helpful to me that joins VDLP on Friday 07th June.
Thanks again take care Colin Scotland

Hola Luka - a very good, informative report. I stayed at the Embalse Albergue and whilst it does have a limited food menu it does serve cold beers and good vino tino and probably has one of the best views. Also you can get your washing done in their washing machine (I think it was 8 euros for the load). The manager was most helpful to me, she arranged transport to Canaveral when I injured my foot and could not walk.