How crowded is the VdlP?

[Luka]

I will be on the Via de la Plata (the first part, Sevilla - Salamanca) in May this year. I am wondering how many other pilgrims I should expect. I found these numbers (people who completed the Via de la Plata):

2006: 3,523
2007: 4,193
2008: 5,104
2009: 6,254
2010: 14,206
2011: 8,068
2012: 8,164

But it depends of course on where those pilgrims started and when they walked. I expect that most people are walking somewhere in spring or autumn.

Why I would like to know? Well mostly to find out if there is a run for beds on this Camino already. Do people set off very early to arrive early at the albergue? Are there rows of backpacks in front of the door? Does everyone find a place to stay? Do people have to sleep on the floor? Is there a peak on certain days of the week? For example, because everyone arrives in Sevilla in the weekend and starts walking on Monday?

Other aspects of a more populair Camino? Like more commercial activity, more pilgrims' infrastructure (like fountains, shops that stay open during siesta...)?

Anyone who has recent information or went there the same time of the year?

 

[peregrino_tom]

I Do people set off very early to arrive early at the albergue? Are there rows of backpacks in front of the door? Does everyone find a place to stay? Do people have to sleep on the floor? Is there a peak on certain days of the week? For example, because everyone arrives in Sevilla in the weekend and starts walking on Monday?

Ha! I think you are in for a culture shock. I walked Oct/Nov in 2010 and there were very few people around, but I never had one night completely alone - always one, two or three others. Racing to the next place was completely unnecessary. Lots of people I met started with sleeping mats but all had discarded them after a couple of weeks. The most basic accommodation we experienced was at Valdesalor
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... 5592226184
I looked through a few guestbooks between Caceres and Fuenterroble and it appeared that March and early April was a 'busy' time (for the VDLP) but that then numbers started to fall into summer, only rising again in September after the worst of the heat was over.
I found the stretch before Merida was hard work, but after that it was great

 

[Luka]

Wonderful pictures! I am even looking more forward to it now!

Well, the culture shock will be the other way around I guess...
I have never been on the Camino Francés. Will be in the future, when I find the time to walk all the way from Le Puy. Until now I have walked from Amsterdam to Le Puy, so I was used to being on my own almost everywhere. I did two stages from Le Puy and was a bit shocked by the amount of people then. I think about 50 - 70 a day.

It still souns amazing that you hardly saw other pilgrims. According to the statistics 2010 should have been the most busy year so far on the VdlP. Maybe they all walked in spring? :wink:

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Luka,
One year I started in Sevilla in mid April, one year in early May. There was a healthy group, but never a huge crowd. I've been told that there is a big "bubble" of people starting in Sevilla around the Holy Week/Easter time.

Tom and I have compared pictures before,there is quite a difference between May and the fall season.
Here are mine from Sevilla to Caceres: https://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.rey ... ToCaceres#
And from Caceres to Zamora:
https://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.rey ... sToZamora#

When I started in early May, I never ran into the big crowds that were supposedly just a few days ahead of us. When in May are you starting? The later you start, the smaller the crowds, I'll bet.

Buen camino, you will love this camino. Laurie

 

[Luka]

And another series of beautiful pictures. thanks Laurie, spring does look different! Easter is very early this year, so I wonder what that will do with the crowds. I hope to leave Sevilla on the 28th of April.

It was this blog that made me start to worry (well, big word) a bit:
http://www.caminowalkaboutplata.blogspot.nl/
Stu and Joan started the 14th of April last year and are writing quite a bit about leaving very early to escape the crowds and be the first at the next albergue.

This doesn't sound very attractive to me, but Tom and you tell very different stories!

 

[peregrino_tom]

hmmm. I just checked Joan and Stuart's blog page. They certainly like to start quite early, but I think that was mainly for the heat and because they like to finish in time for lunch at their destination. I see there were a couple of times where there were a lot of people for a few beds. And it's true there are one or two pinch points. San Salvador only has four beds (and when I was there it seems there was a country dancing rehearsal on the floor above). So maybe this is the busy time - we'll see if others confirm this. But it's going to be quieter at the Sevilla end anyway.

 

[Sagalouts]

Hi
I walked Sep/Oct 2010 it was very hot to begin with-in some places there was just me or a couple more,thinking back I stayed in quite a few private places-tourist albergue's 10/12 euro-1* single bed hostels 14/17 euro -2* hostels 18/20 euro.
a lot of the early Albergue's in the small villages were unmanned,people either came in the evening for the money or you pick the keys up from a house -tourist office or bar nearby (notice on the door or phone number)
the only full places I stayed were Zamora and Salamanca - either small groups-or non walkers who had learned if they had a credencial they got a cheap bed in the big city.
more walkers later on but mostly staying in Private places which may account for the high numbers in the survey
only got stuck once( Albergue closed) and had to stay in 4* Hotel with another walker 60 euro for twin-bed room :cry:
Ian

 

[Donovan]

Luka,
My experience supports Laurie’s comment about Easter being a popular starting time. Last year I left Seville two weeks before Easter. There was plenty of space in all the albergues except Merida, but that was on Good Friday, and there were many cyclists. After A Gudina I took a two week break so, when I rejoined the camino,I entered the “bubble” who had left Seville at Easter. The numbers were a lot higher – probably double. Usually I arrived at albergues between 2 and 3 in the afternoons and had no trouble finding a bed. Closer to Santiago there were new starters and a few of the albergues were full (Xunqueira, Ourense, Castro Dozon, Outeiro) but they seemed to fill only very late in the day.

This is a great camino, I hope you enjoy it

 

[camino07]

I left Seville on 13th April last year and I believe that 40 pilgrims started that day. I had luckily prebooked Hostal Frances in Guillena as the whole town was completo by the end of the day. I chose to stay in private hostals at first but I do remember by the time I arrived in Fuente de Cantos and Zafra the municiple albergues were completo and the TO helped me find good accomodation.People began making advance reservations .I remember arriving at Albergue Carmen in Villafranca los Barros with a lovely German couple who had reservations and being turned away because I hadn't booked. I was so lucky to get the last room in Casa Perrin. Following this I too made reservations. After Merida it was quieter, we seemed to thin out.
I well remember dear Stu and Joan going off in the dark with their headlights on . I don't like walking in the dark so I waited until 7am still would arrive before 2pm.
I started missing all the English speaking pilgrims after Salamanca and lost my my last Swedish amiga after having to stay an extra night in Zamora due to blisters and pain.
If you are able to choose private places when necessary then you should be ok.
Hope this helps.
Buen Camino
Heather

 

[Luka]

hmmm. I just checked Joan and Stuart's blog page. They certainly like to start quite early, but I think that was mainly for the heat and because they like to finish in time for lunch at their destination.

This is a quote from their blog:
Our plan each day is to start early, before sunrise, and before the others in our group have started. Getting to the next destination first has many rewards. Choice of bottom bunks, easier to extricate yourself, and warm water showers (sometimes warm water can be minimal), best space on the laundry line, first to the microwave or hot plate to make a meal, and best location for your backpack so it is easily accessible.
This doesn't sound like it is just because of the heat or lunch. :? They sometimes arrived by 10 or 11 in the morning already, while a decent Spanish lunch is somewhere between 2 and 4 in the afternoon.

Thank all for sharing your experience! It seems to be a lot about luck. Since I'll start walking 4 weeks after Easter I hope to be lucky! I think I will have a great experience either way.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Luka,
Yes, you will have a great experience either way. This is a wonderful camino. And if you fall into a huge bubble you can always slow down or speed up a bit till it passes. Sometimes one day makes a huge difference. Although there aren't as many options for accommodations on the Vdlp as other Caminos, there are plenty of places with "off stage" albergues that are less popular. So don't worry and have a great time. Hope you'll keep in touch and let us know how it goes for you. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Luka]

Thanks! I will, for sure!

 

[Saint Mike II]

Hola Luka - I will be on the VDLP starting from Merida on 17th May so you will probably be a couple of days and kilos ahead. Leave me a greeting at one of the alberques or refugios. Bueno Camino

 

[bsewall]

For what it's worth, there is a "bubble" of 58 pilgrims leaving Guillena tomorrow for Castilblanco de los Arroyos.

 

[peregrina2000]

How strange is this -- yesterday a group of 58 school kids from Valencia walked from Poladura to Pajares on the Camino del Salvador. Maybe they got tired of the snow and took a bus down to Guillena.

 

[filly]

Hello, I walked from Seville to Caceres last October in searing heat and on one day I passed two people. the refugios were never full and there were few bicis. You need to be able to be on your own! I begin again this coming Thursday 11 April from Caceres - anyone else planning on walking then and on to Santiago. Philip

 

[mmm042]

Hi Luka.

You're right in that the numbers you'll hit on the route can be all about luck, but in general you should be fine and not have to worry. I've walked the VDLP 2.5 times, either in March or Sept.-Nov. In general I saw few to no people while I walked (although I start out later than most), and at nights I'd typically find a handful of pilgrims to have dinner with. I stay in private pensions, but I always grill the locals (innkeepers and restauranteurs) about how many pilgrims have been in town that week and are staying tonight. I never had anyone say they were overcrowded, and only once or twice did someone tell me the local albergue was filled.

HAVE FUN! I'm so jealous.

Melanie

 

[Luka]

Less than three weeks!!

I just hope the bubble was a bubble indeed. I hope not to have to run for beds...
Melanie, I assume March is quite early in the season, I will be walking mostly in May.

 

[bsewall]

The bubble has subsided to about 40 or 45. We're in El Real de la Jara right now. I decided to stay with the bubble based on advice from a veteran that people on the Camino will always find room for you, and so far that has been true. It has been a good lesson in trust.

 

[grayland]

The bubble has subsided to about 40 or 45. We're in El Real de la Jara right now. I decided to stay with the bubble based on advice from a veteran that people on the Camino will always find room for you, and so far that has been true. It has been a good lesson in trust.

Hope you will be able to continue to update your observations from the VdlP.
It is interesting to hear from someone actually on the way.

 

[Luka]

Yes, indeed!

Good to hear the part about trust. Something I still have to learn. I was wondering for example how you did this in Guillena with 58 people and only 20 beds in the albergue...

 

[bsewall]

To put it bluntly, the English VdlP guidebooks and other resources are limited despite the best efforts of many on this forum. Out of 5 nights on the VdlP, I've stayed at two excellent aubergues that I couldn't find on any of our resources. There are more aubergues available than I thought. You just have to be persistent and creative to find them.

When I entered Monesterio today I got completely lost looking for the new aubergue parochial (it turns out they have no sign outside), so I followed a German group of pilgrims who lead me to a new, spacious Auberge Las Moreras. I'm happy.

 

[Anniesantiago]

There is an excellent app by Eroski Consumer that covers ALL the Camino Routes.
It is FREE and shows the current albergues, monuments, and maps.
The only issue I have with it so far is that it pops me out of the app more than I'd like.
But when I can manage to keep in the app, the info is great.
It is in Spanish, but if you speak even a little, or even none, the Albergue info is pretty clear.

 

[pmw]

I've suddenly decided it's the VdlP for me, starting in 3 weeks! Having last walked the Camino Frances 9 years ago, and now hearing how crowded and popular it's become, the route from Seville sounds fabulous. Thanks to all of you who post here - what a great resource/forum. Buon Camino to all!

 

[Anniesantiago]

Pmw, I start May 12 in Zafra. Maybe I'll see you on the way. Buen Camino!

 

[Katakun]

The field is thinning out. I saw only 3 peregrinos on the trail from Real to Monesterio today. There is a small sign out front of Alburgue Parochial. But it is easy to miss. No Frances manic panic for a bed. This is one Tranquillo Camino.

 

[Luka]

Very pleased to hear, Katakun. Enjoy!

 

[Anniesantiago]

I wish there was a "thumbs-up" button!

 

[pmw]

Annasantiago....I arrive in Seville 7th April, will start walking 8th, so maybe our paths will cross...buon Camino!

 

[bsewall]

Just to close out my earlier post about the 58 pilgrim bubble that started out a week ago from Sevilla. We're now in Villafranca de Los Borros and down to 15 to 20 in number. Things are far more calm.

 

[Luka]

Nice! Just one question: where did all those people go??

 

[Katakun]

Some from injuries...hip strain, swollen knee, instep pain, and the usual blisters. They are staying at various friendly Albuerges to recover. In my case I camped out to let the crowd move ahead. And some just do longer stages or shorter stages due to fitness levels and time constraints. That's my best guess.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Kat, are you carrying a tent? Or did you sleep out under the stars?

 

[Katakun]

Used my poncho, held up with hiking poles, used like a tarp to keep the dew off. I used my 1m x 2m silnylon pic nic ground cloth to sleep on. It was a lovely starry night. Made a nice change. Albuerges have been plentiful and high quality so far up to Barros.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I'm so happy to hear you did this and didn't freeze!
Ok... I'm getting excited!!!

 

[Saint Mike II]

Anybody starting from Sevilla in the next week or so I would appreciate advice on how hot the days are? I saw a post from a friend on the Granada/Merida Camino and he reported some very warm to hot days for late April. I am starting my Camino from Merida (shortened due to time constraints) on 17th May so am happy to meet up with any pilgrims on the way.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I've got several major VDLP cities on my weather app and I'm noticing that the difference between weather in Seville and Zafra is a whopping 14-15 degrees. For instance it shows 72 high in Seville today and only 59 in Zafra. However, I assume it will get warmer by the day in both places. I leave Tuesday and am packed for both heat and some cold.

The 50s and 60s are great for walking but a cold headwind can make it miserable, especially in the rain.

 

[Connie Carstens]

I did the RVDLP sept-pct 2012, very few peopel some Nights alone at Alberge's , ment Km alone, but also Got fantastic Company.
You MUST be abel to be by your self, Can not relay on follow with others.

Some walk in there ovn small groupes 3 pers. and dó not invite you in.....

Easyer to make Company with 1 or 2.

No linås for alberge and completly different to CF. In a positiv manner, exception from the danger walking 20-35 km. Alone in VERY lonly areas, Winther Lovely Nature.
It is a clous over you every lonly areas, espesially after knowing about robbery and stolen effekts When you are sleeping.

Smile from Connie

 

[Connie Carstens]

It was ever SO hot in autum, When I did live Sevilla the temperature was 41 celcius pyh...., the high heat vent on for some weeks, and not until Galicia 1 Month later it was nessersarry with a jacket.

The only days I started early was at Full Moon time, it was a fantastic vue to see sunrice arround 5-6 o'clock in the morning.

I Will never again walk in the heat like I did.

 

[colinwkay]

I begin my second Camino on the VDLP from Sevilla on Saturday 08th June 2013.
Hoping to meet others along the way, any advice on Albuergues, numbers of Pilgrims walking at same time etc, would be greatly appreciated. many Thanks and Buen Camino
Colin from Scotland

 

[Luka]

I can now answer my own question ;-) (or at least share my experience). Well, the answer is: it is hard to tell...

The capacity of beds in the villages doesn't always match with the amount of pilgrims. There is also quite a big difference from village to village. I walked in 'peak season' (end of April and in May) and the numbers differed a lot: one day there was a big group and the other day there were less than ten.

It doesn't help that from time to time big groups of Spaniards show up. I have met thee of these groups, one of 7, one of 8 and one of even 11. Those groups started booking ahead, making it more difficult for 'ordinary' pilgrims to find a bed.

But in the end I didn't experience a real bed race. Most people started walking somewhere between 6.30 and 8.00 am.

 

[samba]

sorry im just working out how to reply and hope this works .Yes Luka i did part of the VDP in 2011,in July which was far too hot .But only time.I walked with my cousin from Seville to Merida and it definitely was not anywhere near crowded .Most days we met 4 people on the road at the most ,and sometimes there were a couple more in the refugio ,where we stayed in them .Some days we stayed in pensione s ,and they were cheap ,at most 10 E for a bed in a double room .
It got less unbearable ,the heat as we got further from Seville ,but the first week it was still hot at 7 pm ,when we tended to get in to a village .
I still enjoyed it and want to go back and walk from Merida to Compostella .I have walked the northern one from St Jean and it is much more beautiful and varied ,but the VDP for me is much more real ,to use a cliched term ,it feels like you are passing through the lives ,farms ,poverty ,struggles and the joy in life of the people who live and (try and work as there is not a lot of work going for young people it seems ) work .Next time am thinking of going end or mid may and would be interested in learning how it is then -especially as Im thinking too of taking some younger members of my family .Buen Camino

 

[CanPete]

Ha! I think you are in for a culture shock. I walked Oct/Nov in 2010 and there were very few people around, but I never had one night completely alone - always one, two or three others. Racing to the next place was completely unnecessary. Lots of people I met started with sleeping mats but all had discarded them after a couple of weeks. The most basic accommodation we experienced was at Valdesalor
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... 5592226184
I looked through a few guestbooks between Caceres and Fuenterroble and it appeared that March and early April was a 'busy' time (for the VDLP) but that then numbers started to fall into summer, only rising again in September after the worst of the heat was over.
I found the stretch before Merida was hard work, but after that it was great

Great pics !!!! Thanks for posting !

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Pete
Glad you liked the pics - maybe it's a route you'll take sometime?
It's funny because we forget we post these things way back in the mists of time and then years later they re-surface - which is great, it's very nice to be reminded of what was an epic adventure for me
best wishes, tom

 

[samba]

I will be on the Via de la Plata (the first part, Sevilla - Salamanca) in May this year. I am wondering how many other pilgrims I should expect. I found these numbers (people who completed the Via de la Plata):

2006: 3,523
2007: 4,193
2008: 5,104
2009: 6,254
2010: 14,206
2011: 8,068
2012: 8,164

But it depends of course on where those pilgrims started and when they walked. I expect that most people are walking somewhere in spring or autumn.

Why I would like to know? Well mostly to find out if there is a run for beds on this Camino already. Do people set off very early to arrive early at the albergue? Are there rows of backpacks in front of the door? Does everyone find a place to stay? Do people have to sleep on the floor? Is there a peak on certain days of the week? For example, because everyone arrives in Sevilla in the weekend and starts walking on Monday?

Other aspects of a more populair Camino? Like more commercial activity, more pilgrims' infrastructure (like fountains, shops that stay open during siesta...)?

Anyone who has recent information or went there the same time of the year?

we ,my husband and i,walked from Merida to Salamanca in April/May of last year ,ending in Salamanca for the Easter 4 days .We met about 12 peregrinos during that time of about 2 weeks ,and often met up with the 3 people we had met after Merida .No not crowded ,more people as we got towards Salamanca and Easter .One small hostel in a village outside Salamanca was full ,6 beds ,but those of us who could not get a bed just walked to side of road near the turn off and got the bus to Zamorra .Stayed at hostals most of the time ,monasteries and small houses some places larger hostels where we collected keys .I thing you would need to work out approximately where you will be at Easter and perhaps book a room somewhere -the larger towns are full of Spanish tourists too
i have walked from Sevilla to Merida a few years ago (july and much too hot first few days ,but only time i could do it ),and not many people .Both times we walked on own for whole days .Buen Camino
Ps going back to Salamanca this Easter and walking the Sanabres to Santiago afterwards

 

[Nick MJ]

Ha! I think you are in for a culture shock. I walked Oct/Nov in 2010 and there were very few people around, but I never had one night completely alone - always one, two or three others. Racing to the next place was completely unnecessary. Lots of people I met started with sleeping mats but all had discarded them after a couple of weeks. The most basic accommodation we experienced was at Valdesalor
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... 5592226184
I looked through a few guestbooks between Caceres and Fuenterroble and it appeared that March and early April was a 'busy' time (for the VDLP) but that then numbers started to fall into summer, only rising again in September after the worst of the heat was over.
I found the stretch before Merida was hard work, but after that it was great

Tom,
Just wanted to say thanks for the great pictures - could you tell me what camera you used - the photos looked so crisp and I'd love to capture similarly good memories on my next camino

 

[KinkyOne]

Ha! I think you are in for a culture shock. I walked Oct/Nov in 2010 and there were very few people around, but I never had one night completely alone - always one, two or three others. Racing to the next place was completely unnecessary. Lots of people I met started with sleeping mats but all had discarded them after a couple of weeks. The most basic accommodation we experienced was at Valdesalor
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... 5592226184
I looked through a few guestbooks between Caceres and Fuenterroble and it appeared that March and early April was a 'busy' time (for the VDLP) but that then numbers started to fall into summer, only rising again in September after the worst of the heat was over.
I found the stretch before Merida was hard work, but after that it was great

Some great pics you have there, Tom!!!
Thanks!

Ultreai!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Thanks guys.
Nick - just a modest Lumix LX3. The world of digital photography has moved on a bit since they issued that model (2008 I think?), but mine is still going strong. I switched to something else last year but that broke, so the durable Lumix may yet get dropped on the dusty/muddy paths of Spain one more time....