LIVE from the Camino My Camino Primitivo

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola everyone!
Time for the next camino
I've just been to the cathedral where I took a pic of the starting point. I also went to the tourist office and got a map. Will now try to figure out how to get out of town tomorrow morning.
Will start at dawn: 07.38.
And will try to post pics etc along the way!

 

[jstys1]

Buen Camino. I did the Primitivo a few years ago. I loved it. Looking forward to your pictures.

 

[angulero]

¡Disfrútalo!.

Y si estás en Oviedo, hoy se celebra el día de América. Pasadlo bien.

 

[Tia Valeria]

Buen Camino Susanna, the Primitivo is lovely. I hope that Puerto de Palo is clear for you, the view is amazing. Also Montouto with the combination of ancient (dolmen), old (ruined pilgrim refuge) and modern (wind turbines), as well as the moorland itself.

 

[StuartM]

Good luck, looking forward to the pics. Only wish I'd had the time to continue on from Oviedo.

 

[fraluchi]

We met up with susanna at noranco when we were all visiting these two fantastic romanic monuments. Adriaan & anne

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Good morning,
Will now start walking. This is my pack. With the forum badge. If you see it, say hello! Ive already met two forum members and hope to meet more along the way

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Walking out of Oviedo.
There are both shells and yellow arrows on the way.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

I'm now out in the countryside, the weather is clearing up. Will plug out for a while now.

 

[Kiwi-family]

woohoo, this is the first time I've been able to follow someone along the Primitivo with the knowledge that I will be following in her footsteps (God-willing)
Loved your Salvador, looking forward to your Primitivo. Enjoy!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Esclampero

 

[Susannafromsweden]

In Grado, where the way marking is totally and utterly useless.
Or should I say nonexistent.

 

[PadreQ]

Leave a few berries for me. I will be there in a little over a week!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Thanks to my iPhone I have now managed to get myself through Grado and up a hill, where I'm sitting and eating chocolate pudding right now.

 

[peregrina2000]

If I were with you now, I'd be saying, come on Susanna, let's stop at the lovely albergue in San Juan de Villapanada. But given your propensity for monster stages, I'm wondering if you're pushing onward to Cornellana. You've got great weather again, ENJOY!!!!! Laurie

 

[Susannafromsweden]

I'm now in Cornellana together with Fraluchi and Annakappa!

 

[peregrina2000]

I knew it! No way you were going to stop at a mere 28 kms.

So, is the bear over the entry arch to the courtyard eating the child or saving the child?

 

[angulero]

Yo había escuchado una vez algo parecido a esto que encontré escrito por ahí.

Sobre la puerta del huerto existe un relieve de una osa amamantando a una niña, con dos cabezas de león a ambos lados. Este relieve trasmite la leyenda popular que cuenta como una niña, la infanta Cristina, se perdió a muy corta edad en los bosques asturianos y logró sobrevivir gracias a que fue amamantada y protegida por una osa.

Y aquí hablan de lo mismo, pero también de una leona devorando a un pecador.

http://xurdemoran.blogspot.com.es/2013/06/la-osa-y-la-nina-del-monasterio-de-san.html#.UjyWJH-ynkQ

 

[Susannafromsweden]

I knew it! No way you were going to stop at a mere 28 kms.

So, is the bear over the entry arch to the courtyard eating the child or saving the child?

View attachment 6232

Hola!
Saving the child.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Good morning!
Im having tea in the dark (the coil is doing its job every day) while taping my feet and waiting for the others to wake up. Today I feel like the bag rustlers as I'm up first.
We were all frustrated by the way marking and Fraluchi wrote a report he will post later.
I will leave in half an hour, it's very hot and I got a terrible headache yesterday. Don't know how long I'll walk today, I'm walking till I get tired.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Early morning pic of our albergue... We're off to have coffee.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

The bar is full of hunters. I'm the only woman here.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Today I'm walking with the Irish pilgrim and we are now in la Espina.
Got to send you a pic of this ice cream.
For adults only.

 

[angulero]

View attachment 6236
The bar is full of hunters. I'm the only woman here.

Tiene pinta de ser un cuadrilla de cazadores. ¿No viste coches con remolques y perros?.

It looks to be a gang of hunters. Did not you see cars with trailers and dogs?.

 

[fraluchi]

Tiene pinta de ser un cuadrilla de cazadores. ¿No viste coches con remolques y perros?.

It looks to be a gang of hunters. Did not you see cars with trailers and dogs?.

Los hemos visto a centenares. Muy peligrosos!
Anne is really sick and will have to interrupt for a day or so! Will bus to Tineo and see how she picks up by Monday.
Angulero te escribo sobre Naranco cuando tengo un teclado.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, fraluchi, please send along our best wishes for a quick recovery for Anne. I hope that a day or two in Tineo does the trick. Maybe this four star spa is what the doctor ordered: http://www.palaciodemeras.com

Wishing you the best, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 6237
Today I'm walking with the Irish pilgrim and we are now in la Espina.
Got to send you a pic of this ice cream.
For adults only.

But hey, it's only 55 calories! Quite a difference from the many other rich concoctions like magnum, etc.

Susanna, I am guessing that you have to stop somewhere today, will it be Tineo?

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola, I'm now in Tineo.
Fraluchi, I'm so sorry to hear Anne is not well yet. I've been thinking of you today. I'm so grateful she gave me the gel tubes for my toes. I had a pain free walk today, thanks to her!

We loved the walk today, good way marking and a very nice trail!
The albergue here is awful. Full of people, long waiting for the shower/loo, very rude hospitalero. I checked in and payed etc but after two minutes I left it running. I'm now staying in a little hotell just 200m away from it. A nice clean little room for 20 euro. Very happy now

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Fraluchi. So sorry to hear Anne is ill. If you read this before you find a place to stay we can recommend Pension Tineo, near the Post Office. The owner keeps the Bar Tineo further along the street from where the camino turns sharp right uphill. Tel:- 985800710 You need to phone or go to his bar/restaurant initially for the keys.
Website:- http://www.pensionbartineo.com/ . We found the owner very friendly and helpful. Farmacias etc nearby.
As far as I can remember you come up from the bus station and keep straight on along the edge of the plaza and along the street ahead.
Hope all is well soon.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola, me again...
We are discussing tomorrows walk here. We are thinking about staying in Pola de Allande. Is that albergue ok?
It seems to be difficult to continue to the next albergue, as it's 10 km something I think to the next one. :-/

 

[fraluchi]

Hola Fraluchi. So sorry to hear Anne is ill. If you read this before you find a place to stay we can recommend Pension Tineo, near the Post Office.

Thank you all for your help. We have nice room at Don Miguel, practically opposite to the albergue de peregrinos. Anne very weak but you are chearing her up. We'll see tomorrow how the health situation can allow a walk to Campiello.
The weather is hot from midday onwards and forecast same coming days.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

...and Fraluchi also managed to get the room next door to a certain walker from Sweden.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, fraluchi, hoping for good news on Anne's condition. Maybe a good night's sleep away from the albergue will do wonders. Sincerely hope so.

Susanna, I take it you have decided not to go through Hospitales. From Tineo, it would be a long day (but hey, what's long for me is obviously not long for you!), unless you stopped at Campiello or Borres, which is undoubtedly way too short for a superwalker like you. But you did mention Pola de Allande, which is the alternative way, and I think it's very beautiful too.

The albergue in Pola was ok when I was there, nothing in the kitchen, but standards were ok. There is a one star hotel (with good food) in the center, and you also have the alternative of starting up towards Puerto de Palo for about 3 kms outside of Pola to Penaseita, where there is a bar and a small albergue. I've never slept there, but I've heard that its ok, too.

The last time I walked the Primitivo, I didn't stay in Tineo. In Bodenaya, Alejandro told us that the night before, 20 or more pairs of hiking boots were taken from outside the albergue and thrown into the bushes all along the roads out of town. I think that may have produced a change in albergue policy about not bringing shoes into the albergue.

Wishing you all some good Camino days in green and beautiful Asturias! Laurie

 

[PadreQ]

I'm starting in a little over a week, without an iPhone. Any advice on navigating the poor way marking? Tell Anne she will be remembered at the altar tomorrow in Dallas. The forecast looks to be turning cooler next week.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Am leaving in three minutes.
Laurie, we don't know how and where the hospitales routes starts. I guess we will see that today.
The guide book from Csj is confusing to read, I think. I could be better organised and have a clearer structure.
And.
Bad way marking in Grado. Basically you got to walk over a bridge and follow the busiest road through the town. At the end of the town the arrows are back again and takes you up a hill.
And before Cornellana a couple of km before a big unfinished bridge there's two yellow arrows pointing the wrong direction. Ignore them and carry on.
Ok I'm off.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

We just had coffee and are walking out of Tineo. Lots of fog down the valley.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Susanna,
I'm sure you will know this by now, but the Hospitales route starts a little after Borres. At that point, you have to decide whether to go up and take the long ridge over the mountains to Puerto de Palo, and from there down to Montefurado and then on to La Mesa or Montefurado. From Tineo, it's a long walk, probably 39, which is why many people who do the Hospitales alternative stay in Campiello or Borres. Between Borres and Lago (a town after your descent from the pass) there is nothing, but in Lago there is a bar. No place to sleep till La Mesa, giving you a long day.

OR you will go to Pola de Allande, where you'll probably sleep (or up to Penaseita as I described in my earlier post, where I think there is a nicer albergue). Then the next day, you go up through a lovely green tunnel to the Puerto de Palo. From Pola de Allande, you have a lot of options -- to La Mesa, Berducedo, or even all the way into Grandas de Salime.

Either way, you'll be up at the mountain pass, the difference in between the two routes is that the Hospitales route has a long walk along the ridge with lots of great views, old pilgrim hospitals in ruins, and wild horses.

The route up to Puerto de Palo from Pola de Allande is lovely and green, very different than Hospitales.

Let us know! Laurie

 

[fraluchi]

Hi, fraluchi, hoping for good news on Anne's condition. Maybe a good night's sleep away from the albergue will do wonders. Sincerely hope so.

Sunday morning and Anne somewhat better. We'll try walk to campiello Monday without backpacks. Same on Tuesday to Pola de Allande. Take evening bus to Grandas de Salime, and start from there on Wednesday since Thursday announces stormy weather over pass. Don't want to get stuck under lightning. The weather has been unusually hot during the last few days and is bound for a heavy break.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola,
We are now in the albergue in Pola de Allande. It's a nice albergue and we washed all our clothes and as its so hot, we hope to actually get them dry today.
It's been just incredibly hot today, too much for me. We had a good start in the morning. The views very just spectacular. Wow. But when we reached Borres it started to get hot as in a sauna, and I started to sweat something crazy, and felt sick. My walking companion said we just could not go the Hospitales route, as it was too hot, and no shade. So we walked to here instead and I'm glad we did. Very tired now.
Don't know how long we will go tomorrow, they say it will be even more hot then. Am looking forward to the rain.

 

[peregrina2000]

Good to hear from both fraluchi and susanna. Hope Anne is able to walk tomorrow, the walk to Campiello is just lovely. Wish I were there! Sounds like a cooling front will be most welcome.

Susanna, your walk up tomorrow is a beautiful shaded walk with lots of green, small farms, and babbling brooks. It will be a nicer way to get to the Puerto de Palo than over the sunny ridge. Is the Primitivo crowded?

Hard to believe how quickly this is going!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Good morning!
Just woke up here. I think we are 15 at the albergue, incl a few cyclists.
We haven't planned this route at all and realised yesterday how short the recommended stages are, and that we have been walking five or six (I've forgotten) in three days. We actually thought today's recommended walk is 40 km when we were reading the guide book! And thought nooo do we have to that in this heat!?
I started the eroski app yesterday and I'm sure it's good but it consumed all my mb pot for the day, so won't do that again. But there we can see the real stages etc.
Glad to hear its shade along the road today. We are thinking of doing 25 something so we can take a day off in Lugo. But let's see.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola from Lago!
This pic is taken earlier today. (this is Con, my waking companion)
We are now eating bocadillas in the bar here. It's too hot!
We are thinking if going to La Mesa today. The guys from Estonia are planning to go to Grandas de Salime. Doubt it I must say, in this heat.

 

[ivar]

Clouds and cooler weather in the forecast (starting tomorrow in Santiago), so enjoy the warm weather when you can
Buen Camino!
Ivar

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Right now...

 

[fraluchi]

We are thinking if going to La Mesa today.

You are going like a train! We stopped at campiello (Casa Herminia) Anne almost the old one. Tomorrow onwards Pola de Allande. Have to catch up lost time. Grandas?
Fraluchi

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Ok we are now in Presa de Embalese.
We checked in to the hotel here as we just can't walk anymore. Wow that was long.
The tree Estonian guys just arrived. They started at 7, we at 8, and we overtook them an hour ago.
The guide book says we have just walked 30 km but google says 35. I wonder how long it was.

 

[angulero]

La verdad es que está haciendo demasiado calor estos días, aunque tampoco es inusual que en septiembre vengan días de calor, incluso en octubre. Es el veranillo del membrillo o de San Miguel (hay unos higos que maduran en esta época que se llaman Miguelinos). Por eso no suelo contestar cuando alguien pregunta con meses de antelación como va a ser el clima durante unas fechas en el camino. Mañana debería de aflojar algo, pero seguirá haciendo calor ya que seguirá entrando el aire del sur. Aquí, en la costa se lleva mejor por la brisa marina, pero hace calor también. Tómatelo con calma y disfruta.

The truth is that it is getting too hot these days, although it is not unusual that in September come hot days, even in October. It is the veranillo del Membrillo or San Miguel (there are some figs that ripen at this time we are called Miguelinos). So I do not usually answer when someone asks months in advance will be the weather for a few dates on the way. Tomorrow should loosen something, but will continue as it will heat the air coming south. Here on the coast along better by the sea breeze, but also hot. Take it easy and enjoy.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

You are going like a train! We stopped at campiello (Casa Herminia) Anne almost the old one. Tomorrow onwards Pola de Allande. Have to catch up lost time. Grandas?
Fraluchi

Glad to hear Anne is better and that you are back on the trail again!
We ate a very good pizza at the bar in Pola de Allande. I can recommend that. Lots of energy in that.

 

[Pruden]

Is a pity Anne got sick in Asturias! a wonderful land to enjoy food and very nice views.
I hope you get ok to Santiago and feel a deep experience valuable the difficult moments.

Buen Camino.



B

 

[SLF]

View attachment 6222
Thanks to my iPhone I have now managed to get myself through Grado and up a hill, where I'm sitting and eating chocolate pudding right now.

Wish I was the Susanna sitting there enjoying the beautiful view and eating chocolate pudding.
Susan

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Good morning!
Just woke up here. Pic taken from my window and as you can see there's a few clouds today. Hope there will be more of them. The sun is like kryptonite for me. Makes the uphills unbearable.
Fonsagrada today, I think.
I'm a bit tired today. I was just going to say yesterday was hard but then realised everyday has been hard.
Ok time to pack.

 

[Kiwi-family]

I go to bed and you go for a walk. Don't feel bad about having a shorter day, one day that maybe isn't hard. It might even end up just as much fun as passing other pilgrims;-) Enjoy!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Now in Penafonte. The Irish pilgrim somewhere in the woods. I thought I sit here in peace and quiet and enjoy my yoghurt and chocolate. Then this guy turned up wanted half of it.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Now in Fonsagrada. The pension Manolo was on the way and I thought that meant I should stay there. This is the view from my window (please note the clothes lines). The room is clean, the shower is good and they promised me a good dinner. Room cost 30 euro and dinner 9. A very nice walk today. There was a few flat monotonous km which was very relaxing after all the climbing. I got lost and had to use google maps which took me on an almost vertical everlasting road which suddenly brought me back on the camino. On the very top. Lots of clouds, a cold breeze and I even got a little rain which lasted 1-2 minutes. But when the sun comes out is extremely hot. I only saw the three Estonian pilgrims just before town. It's funny as its more pilgrims in the albergues than on the trail. Will get back to you with a report about the dinner. Food is ok but must say it was better on the Salvador route.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Susanna, Fonsagrada has two very good pulperias if you are a fan of octopus. I have eaten in both and can't remember which one I liked more, but they are close to your pension.

If you go on to Castromonte tomorrow instead of staying in Cadavo Baleira, I think you might get a better meal. There's a newly opened albergue there that it supposed to be nice. I stayed in a pension and had a good meal in one of the local places. (and staying in Castromonte gives you a much shorter day into Lugo, and hence more time to enjoy that lovely place!).

I thought the weather was supposed to cool off, hope things get better. Hugs from Laurie

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Thank you Laurie! Actually I was just sitting here with my pencil and guide book trying to figure out how long it would be to Castroverde. 32-33 km I think. Good to hear there's a new albergue there.
As I'm writing this it has started to rain here, which is wonderful. Not only because the temperature is falling, it also makes the bagpipes stop playing. I'm sure they are great but bagpipe concert is not exactly what one wants after a long day of walking.
Hugs,
Susanna

 

[peregrina2000]

Oops, it's Castroverde, not Castromonte. But though I messed up the name, I'm pretty sure there is a brand new albegue that has opened. When I stayed in Castroverde in 2012, the albergue was complete, but there was no money to buy the furnishings.

One more bit of totally unsolicited advice. Unless you are walking in torrential rains, do not listen to the owner at the bar in Paradavela, who will try to convince you not to walk on the Camino. The Camino between Paradavela and Lastra is BEAUTIFUL, a few little abandoned stone hamlets that will make you sad but that are beautiful and maybe some day will come back to life. There is a short steep ascent right before Lastra, but nothing that a strong peregrina like you can't handle. I walked on the Camino on a day when it had rained from 5 pm the day before to 7 am on the day I left Fonsagrada, and it was perfectly passable. Don't miss it! Hugs from Laurie

p.s. I wanted to make sure I didn't steer you wrong, so I did a little checking and found that yes indeed the albergue in Castroverde is now open: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...ue-opens-in-castroverde-sept-17th-2012.15351/

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Thanks Laurie
It's funny as I was reading in the guide book this evening and it said I should not walk the camino between Paradavella and Lastra if it had been raining. And we had a good downpour this evening! But I think it might get better tomorrow.
I've just had supper here at the Pension, as it's raining I did not want to go too long. And it was like travelling back in time. I was the only guest. The chef was an older woman probably grandma. And first I had vegetable soup which was nice. I ate three plates of that. Then I had a funny beef stew which was in fact meat cooked two hours I guess until falling apart. This was laying on a bed of the **** chips as usual. And dessert was home made custard. Ok it tasted good, but it was so old fashioned it was exotic.
Time to sleep now

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Good Morning from Fonsagrada!
I'm waiting for the sunrise, and as there probably is no bar/shop until Paradavella (ca 10 km) I got to buy picnic food here before I leave.
While I wait I thought I write something about walking in sandals, as I remember someone asked before if that was doable on this route. Yes it is, in this weather, if you accept getting your feet wet and dirty. There's lots of mud on the trail sometimes and cow dung and puddles of water but that doesnt mean one has to step in it. The sand and dust on the road is hard on the feet though as it gets under the straps on the sandals and there I must put some tape or else I get little wounds there. And because of that I try to wash my sandals every day. They are (fairly) dry the next morning.
Ok dawn is starting so time to get moving. It's Cadavo or Castoverde today, depending on the weather.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

It's a beautiful morning today. Don't think my phone can do it justice but I'll try

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Ok, now in Cadavo/ Baleira. I walked the camino between Paradavella and Lastra, and it was beautiful but very hard. In the woods I met a nice spanish man, Augustin, who put new plasters etc on my feet. We then walked together to here, where we are staying at the albergue which is nice and clean.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Susanna, Just a quick note from the President of your Fan Club.

Looks like you will get a good rest in Cadavo, and tomorrow Lugo! Are you going to stay an extra day in Lugo?

You may already know this, but the pilgrim friendly restaurant in Lugo is Manger, just a bit outside the walls. If you like octopus, go for their higher priced menu, which has a primero of pulpo, and for me the great thing is that it's a small portion. I love pulpo but in small doses.

One other thing, if you are planning on leaving early. If you want an early morning coffee, the bar in the bus station is open 24/7. It's very close to the albergue, just outside the walls. Let me know how the hospitalero acts, he can be a bit off-putting shall we say. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola Laurie!
A fan club, wow.
The hospitalero here is a woman, and she is ok. Was it the hospitalero in Lugo you were thinking of?
Indeed, I'm thinking of a resting day in Lugo. I have to confess octopus looks a bit scary. But will have to try!
Now we are about to have supper at the restaurant close to the albergue. Am hoping it will be ok. More later

 

[fraluchi]

Fraluchi and Anne have landed in Catroverde and will walk tomorrow, Thursday, to Lugo. Where to meet?

 

[Susannafromsweden]

That sounds good Fraluchi, you will have a nice walk tomorrow. I will have to do the uphills first before I get to Castroverde.
Am thinking of staying at the albergue the first night so maybe I'll met you there? Not sure yet. I'll post some messages on the way as usual. Or say a place where you will be tomorrow evening and I'll go there.
We had fish soup with lots of small little mussels for supper. Am hoping it will end well. Fingers crossed

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Right now on today's walk from Cadavo to Lugo.
Lots of pilgrims took the bus today.

 

[Kiwi-family]

I've just logged in to see what you're up to before I go to bed;-) Thanks for posting!

 

[peregrina2000]

Have fun in Lugo! Sorry to see you're getting so close to Santiago, I'll miss the daily pictures of some of my favorite Caminos.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

I'm now in Lugo and have checked in to a little cheap hotel here. I realised that if I stay two nights here, then I can sleep as long as I want tomorrow!
This is the view from my window. Traffic outside, a bit scruffy but with such a location (and good wifi) I'm happy.
Today's walk was very relaxing. Perfect weather. No difficult hills. First I went to Lauries bar before I left Cadavo. Then another one in Castroverde. There I also bought picnic food as there were no bar/shops before Lugo.
But there were two little villages where they had these machines (or what they are called) where you can buy cold drinks and snacks. The first one didn't accept any money. The next one after a few km took the money etc but I could not open the door and get out the drink, so had to ask one of the locals. He opened it and our came my Kas naranja plus a Red bull as a bonus. That was funny as I had just been thinking Oh I'm getting tired now, how I wish I could get my energy back. And there it was!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Am posting a few pics here as the wifi is so good.

Pic of the nice easy hills this morning.

A not very great pic of the altarpiece in Iglesia de Santa Maria. A wonderful church.

This is how most of today's walk was. Very peaceful. I loved it.
And...

This is the very spot where I was standing when I was booking my hotel room. I think that is funny, anyway. I love my iPhone. It helps me in so many situations on the camino.
Ok now I will shut up and go and wash my clothes.

 

[Thomas1962]

Hi susanna, right now I'm in castro, just 5 kms after grandas de salime. Its nice to read about your way, thank you for that. You're just 3 days ahead of me. We first planned to go from here straight to cadavo-baleira, but is seems just a bit to much for now, especially when it seems to start raining tomorrow. In this part of the primitivo it seems like no one has really choices on the stages you can do.
We still need to catch one day on the usual scheme, we want to arrive in santiago next wednesday. So maybe I'll see you, I will check the backpacks... If you see 2 omm backpacks, you're sure it will be me and my wife.
Have a nice time in lugo!
Thomas

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola Thomas,
Good to hear you are on the Primitivo too, would be fun to meet, maybe in Santiago.
I'm just back, I met Fraluchi and Anne in the cathedral, who also went to the mass. That was very nice.
My stages on the Primitivo has been so far:
Day 1, Oviedo to Cornellana.
2, to Tineo.
3, to Pola de Allande.
4, to Presa de Embalse.
5, to Fonsagrada.
6, to Cadavo.
And 7, to Lugo, where I will stay two nights.
As you can see I stayed in pensions some days, which meant I was more flexible about the stages. I stopped when I was tired.
Lugo is a lovely city. Here's a pic taken from my window this evening.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola from Lugo!
The rain is pouring down today. The street next to my hotel looks like a river. People are walking on the city wall with umbrellas. I will soon do that too. And the premier tour for my sealskin socks.
I'm thinking about the next stages and think tomorrow is a bit difficult as there are lots of options but no one is really good. Thinking about stopping in As Seixas.
Am hoping my favourite All Camino Expert Laurie will give me some advice and solve all my problems, as usual.
Hugs in advance.

 

[fortview]

Hola - we are now in Salas and no rain yet! We are expecting it though. Its nice that it is a bit cooler now. Buen camino !

 

[Kiwi-family]

Am hoping my favourite All Camino Expert Laurie will give me some advice and solve all my problems, as usual.
Hugs in advance.

I'm not Laurie, but my vote is for Sobrado via Friol.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

I'm not Laurie, but my vote is for Sobrado via Friol.

Thank you!
I googled it and found a thread about the way to Friol. After walking out of Lugo there are green arrows to follow. That sounds fun, but I worry a little about the hotel in Friol, as that is the only alternative (?). If its full, I have to continue to Sobrado. :-/

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, I have never gone via Sobrado dos Monxes on the Primitivo, I've only walked to it on the Norte. So much for my expertise. So I can't give you any firsthand knowledge, but maybe someone here can chime in.

If the weather clears up and you're looking for a little detour, though, visiting Santa Eulalia da Boveda (well marked turn-off about 11 or 12 kms along the road). It's in a little hamlet, and underneath the church they discovered a 4th century pavilion with its frescoes pretty well in tact. Lovely. From there you don't have to return to the amino, but can take a little path to Bacurin, where you reconnect with the Primitivo). That's the only detour I know anything about.

If you stay on the Primitivo instead of going to Sobrado, there are two nice albergues in San Roman da Retorta, but that's not likely to be far enough for superwalker Susanna. There is a private albergue in Ferreira, which had closed but seems to be open again, though you might want to check that because it's the only place in town aside from a casa rural that's nice too. Or the new-ish albergue few kms on, I think its Seixas, but I don't think there are stores or a bar there.

So I may be of no help at all. The day out of Lugo, at least if you stay on the Primitivo to Melide, is a lot of asphalt, which might not be a bad thing if it's still raining.

Sorry I can't help on this one. Enjoy Lugo, go ahead and try some pulpo, Susanna. At least a few bites! Laurie

 

[ivar]

Maybe @Juanma would have some ideas? He runs the albergue Ponte Ferreira, just after Lugo (if I am not totally mistaken, that is where it is)...

Buen Camino Susanna!
Ivar

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Maybe @Juanma would have some ideas? He runs the albergue Ponte Ferreira, just after Lugo (if I am not totally mistaken, that is where it is)...

Buen Camino Susanna!
Ivar

That's a good idea Ivar, thank you!
I've decided to stay at @juanmas place, it sounds perfect.
It's still raining here and I've been sleeping all afternoon! Its funny as I was thinking yesterday why did I bring my rain jacket and my umbrella? They are so heavy. But I suspect I will have to use them everyday from now on.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

...forgot one thing.
Laurie, ok I'll try to eat some pulpo, maybe in Santiago. I've been avoiding pulpo as I think the suction cups looks scary . The legs looks like rubber and as if they are still alive. But will do my best.

 

[Thomas1962]

Hi!
Am in fonsagrada now, ended also up in hostal manolo. Seems like we were missed the most heavy rain while we were in 'all' these bars on the way. still have energy for at 10 more kms but santiago didn't seem to agree on that.
Checked your possibilities according to the yellow outdoor book which I have. It seems like it will become for you a 27k till san roman, a 34k till ponte ferreira or a 39 till as seixas.
And as you seemed to have a goor restday in lugo ;-)
I plan to go from castroverde straight to san roman. After all these short stages I will be happy to do a 40k.
Getting closer... ;-)

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola Thomas,
Glad you missed the rain so far, but I suspect it will be here waiting for you.
I think I will decide where to stay tomorrow when walking, and see how it feels. The walk in to Lugo was hard, lots of asphalt, and I guess walking out of the town will be pretty much the same.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Susanna, The albergue in Ponte Ferreira is a good choice, especially now that Ivar has given the confirmation that it's open. It is a really beautifully redone building, what I don't know is whether they serve any food or not.

When I walked there in 2012, a young couple was running it, and the only food option was to buy microwavable food from a machine. But I think that couple left, which is why I wasn't sure about whether it had been re-opened. I heard somewhere that there is food served now, but in a pinch you can go to the Casa Rural for a 16 euro overpriced but edible meal. Would love to get the details on what's going on in Ponte Ferreira, because that will probably be one of my stages on my next Camino.

From Ponte Ferreira, we walked through Melide and on to Boente, a few kms further on. There is a great new albergue there, and even though you'll be on the Frances, since it's such a small town, you can avoid walking with hoards of people.

And I have to say that I don't think you made a bad decision by sticking with the Primitivo. This is only my opinion, of course, but unless people really want to stay in the monastery because of the special-ness of it, when I was in the Sobrado albergue it was terribly dirty. The bathrooms were really among the worst I've ever seen. But of course, staying in a monastery was kind of cool, and walking through what is pretty much a huge abandoned facility was novel.

Hope the weather turns a bit nicer! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi!
Am in fonsagrada now, ended also up in hostal manolo. Seems like we were missed the most heave rain while we were in 'all' these bars on the way. still have energy for at 10 more kms but santiago didn't seem to agree on that.
Checked your possibilities according to the yellow oudoor book which I have it seems like it will become for you a 27k till san roman, a 34k till ponte ferreira or a 39 till as seixas.
And as you seemed to have a goor restday in lugo ;-)
I plan to go from castroverde straight to san roman. Afyer all these short stages I will be happy to do a 40k.
Getting closer... ;-)

Hi, Thomas, I think there's another forum member a few days behind you as well. And then PadreQ is setting out in a few days, so the forum stream on the Primitivo continues.

 

[ivar]

From what I understand @Juanma and Paloma has just taken over this place.. their website says that you need to reserve ahead of time in october... so in theory they should be open in september...

http://www.ponteferreira.com/

@Juanma do you have food service?

Un saludo,
Ivar

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Ivar, that is really great news because it is a beautiful building.

 

[Juanma]

Hello everybody! I am Juanma, and together with my wife Paloma, we are the new hospitaleros at the Albergue Ponte Ferreira. I just signed in to this forum yesterday, and was planning to do our official introduction in a few more days, with some nice photographs of the albergue, but now that I have been requested to participate, I guess this is kind of our introduction now

For everyone's information, yes, we do offer food: a dish of pasta, or "bocadillos" for lunch, and a community dinner of paella every night during high season (at least 6 guests are needed to cook the smallest possible paella). Out of high season we still offer dinner, just not paella...

And also for everyone's information, I must inform that at the moment we are closed: we have had a little problem with our showers, and while we had to do some major works in the albergue to repair them, we took the chance and planned some additional improvements, like painting certain areas, etc... So we do not expect to open until early October, sorry for that!

I will anyway introduce the albergue in a few more days, with photos of the building after all the improvements! Thanks for reading, Buen Camino!,

 

[ivar]

Thank you @Juanma ! Welcome to the forum!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

A rainy morning in Lugo and I'm about to leave soon. It's very dark but the camino starts just around the corner of my hotel. I'm afraid I got a cold and some fever yesterday. I feel ok now and slept well but had peculiar dreams, that Ivar was with us on the camino and he had bought a very big Christmas turkey which I had to cook for dinner. It was difficult doing that in the small kitchen in the albergue.
Ok I'm off now.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Right now on the camino.
I found the Spanish pilgrim on the road so now I got some company.

 

[fraluchi]

View attachment 6296
Right now on the camino.

Anne and Fraluchi will be staying for 2 nights from Sunday at Ospederia San Martin Pinario in Santiago.

 

[peregrina2000]

View attachment 6296
Right now on the camino.
I found the Spanish pilgrim on the road so now I got some company.

And it looks like you've got some sun, too!

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Tomorrow is the last day on the camino Primitivo. Am posting a pic from today. I had such a great day today. Wonderful.
This is my walking companion Augustin, who says hello.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola!
We (me and Augustin) are now on the camino Frances and staying in a private albergue 43 km from Santiago. I'm not sure of the name but here's a pic taken from the bar:

It's nice. Food is good, and only four beds in the room. Ok if it was just me I would do all the 43 km tomorrow but Augustin has a problem with his foot so we must do the rest in two stages. So we will turn up in Santiago on Tuesday, I guess.
It's raining here at the moment, and a bit chilly.

 

[bimblingalong]

View attachment 6297
Tomorrow is the last day on the camino Primitivo. Am posting a pic from today. I had such a great day today. Wonderful.
This is my walking companion Augustin, who says hello.

Thanks so much for the posts & info, will be walking next year & this has helped my planning greatly...Gracias
Enjoy your arrival in Santiago, are you walking on to FInisterre?

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Hola!
I'm now in Arca o Pino, at albergue Edreira. It is much nice than the big public albergue, I think. We have only 18 km to walk tomorrow.
I'm not planning to go to Finisterre this time, as the weather is not so good at the moment. Maybe next time.
Will post a pic tomorrow when we arrive to Santiago!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Susanna, Thanks for letting us piggy-back along with you on this camino. Your posts have made me think that instead of trying a new camino next year, I really want to go back to the Salvador/Primitivo. Hope the weather cooperates tomorrow, it's always nicer to enter Santiago in the sun, but rain is a close second! Abrazos from Laurie

 

[Kiwi-family]

Hope you do Laurie - might get to walk with you for three minutes until you've left us in the dust!

 

[Thomas1962]

Hello everybody! I am Juanma, and together with my wife Paloma, we are the new hospitaleros at the Albergue Ponte Ferreira. I just signed in to this forum yesterday, and was planning to do our official introduction in a few more days, with some nice photographs of the albergue, but now that I have been requested to participate, I guess this is kind of our introduction now

For everyone's information, yes, we do offer food: a dish of pasta, or "bocadillos" for lunch, and a community dinner of paella every night during high season (at least 6 guests are needed to cook the smallest possible paella). Out of high season we still offer dinner, just not paella...

And also for everyone's information, I must inform that at the moment we are closed: we have had a little problem with our showers, and while we had to do some major works in the albergue to repair them, we took the chance and planned some additional improvements, like painting certain areas, etc... So we do not expect to open until early October, sorry for that!

I will anyway introduce the albergue in a few more days, with photos of the building after all the improvements! Thanks for reading, Buen Camino!,

Hi juanma, your albergue looks nice from the outside.... I just passed it today.
I'm in seixas now with people who did plan to go to your place but because you're closed had to continue to seixas. They had another challenge... Can you please put signs that you are closed now, especially also before the albergue before you in san roman?

 

[FatmaG]

Dear Susanna, a very well arrival in Santiago! Enjoy!