Naranco churches and Escamplero for Day One

[peregrina2000]

Hi, primitivo veterans,

I'm helping a friend who is planning to walk the Primitivo. She wants to visit the church and palace on Naranco (I won't get on my soap box about those sites, but IMO anyone who misses them has really lost a great opportunity). But she doesn't want to take an extra day in Oviedo to visit them.

One thing I've seen on some forum is that you can walk out of Oviedo and up to the sites (easy 30 minute walk through residential Oviedo), visit them, and then continue on without a total backtrack and hook up with the camino. Since Escamplero and its albergue are only 9 kms from Oviedo, this would give her an easy way to see the churches and also get started on the Primitivo.

Has anyone walked from the Naranco churches directly onto the Camino? Is the route marked?

I know that Escamplero gets widely varying reports, so any recent first hand info on that albergue would also be appreciated.

Thanks, everyone. Laurie

 

[GaryandKatie]

Not a reply with any answers but we would also love to know this info...........we will be there in September starting the Primitivo ...............Thanks!

 

[peregrina2000]

I am not very good with technology, but I did find a google map showing the location of San Miguel de Lillo, one of the two Naranco sites:

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8 ... cd34c17592

But I can't figure out how to get directions from that location to Escamplero. If I could see the route, I would have a pretty good idea of how to connect with the Camino Primitivo, because that first part of the Primitivo pretty much follows the road through some small villages from Oviedo to Escamplero.

The map is kind of misleading, too, because when you are at the Naranco sites, none of that huge athletic complex off to the left is even visible. I've been up there at least 8 times and had no idea it was so close to all those fields.

I have a vague memory that the CSJ guide might have been the place I saw the directions on how to go from Naranco to Escamplero without going back to Oviedo. I know some forum members have that guide -- maybe someone can check it out. Thanks, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Laurie, We think that there was a clear sign near San Miguel de Lillo pointing the way to Escamplero. Other pilgrims were going to take it. Also the guides up there would be able to point the right direction to the start of the path if the sign isn't clear enough.

We'll look out our guide and PM you if it has directions.

 

[peregrina2000]

Just thought I would add some pictures of the two pre-romanesque buildings up at Naranco, maybe it will entice you to visit. It is peaceful and beautiful up there, highly recommended.

San Miguel de Lillo was built as a church in the 9th century. Some of it has collapsed but what remains is beautiful. One of the windows is used as Asturias' touristic "emblem."

Santa Maria del Naranco was also built in the 9th century. The experts say it was built as a secular building/castle/court and it has some incredible carving and architectural details.


[attachment=1]San Miguel de Lillo.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]Santa Maria del Naranco.jpg[/attachment]

 

[amancio]

Josines posted some indications in a Spanish forum:

"... after visiting Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo, go down the road for about 500 meters and then take the road towards Ules. This road goes west along the mountain ladder. Following this track you will end up meeting the Primitivo after a few km"

All in all, you are only saving a couple of km, it is probably worth it to walk back to Oviedo and then start the Camino properly. It is nice to see how you leave the city, just after crossing a bridge, you are in the middle of the rural Asturian landscape!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks, Amancio, I just saw Josines' reply on the foroperegrinos.

From the couple of responses I got there, it looks like the consensus is that it won't really save you that much time to take a "shortcut" to Escamplero from Naranco. But in any event, it is still quite a do-able day to walk cathedral-Naranco-back to train station, where the Primitivo leaves town-Escamplero.

Bus #10 goes up and down from central Oviedo to the Naranco sites. Leaves from Calle Uria, the main commercial street in town.

I know that I'm a nut case when it comes to ancient churches, but these are really quite something and well worth a visit if you share this interest. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[naranco]

One you are visiting the churches, you can easily walk up to the top of Naranco to visit the Sagrado Corazón. No need to walk up the main road, there is a walking path just East of the second church.

http://robertoggarcia.zzl.org/al-sagrado-corazon-vendras

If it is not cloudy you can really appreciate Oviedo, it's surroundings, some times even the coast line.

 

[peregrina2000]

I just received an update from some Spanish peregrinos who live in Oviedo, and they recommend a new route from the Naranco sites that is very direct and saves you a few kms:

Return to the parking lot below the churches. On the western side of the lot, a path descends to a park, named "Purificación Tomás" (named after a famous female Asturian politician). If you cross the park, always in the southwestern direction, you will come into the road that takes you to the last building of the Florida neighborhood (The Primitivo leaves Oviedo going through the neighborhoods of La Argañosa and La Florida, so you are joining up with the Camino just as it's about to leave the city, because La Florida is the newest developoment on the very edge of town). And from there you will be on the Camino, and will go through the little hamlet of Santiago de Pañiceres.

They are going to send some pictures, which I will post, but this sounds like a good way to do it. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[fraluchi]

Laurie, thanks for this info. Anne and I intend to visit the churches and then walk to Escamplero. Since it'll be the day after our transatlantic flight, we'll walk without backpacks and return from Escamplero to Oviedo by Alsa bus (18:30 - 19:00). After a good night sleep in Oviedo (and get rid of the jet lag) we'll bus out again to walk onward with backpacks. Todo si Dios quiere!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, fraluchi,
You will not regret a visit to these places. They are really incredible. The walk up is through residential areas and on roads, and since you are fluent in Spanish, a question will always get you back on the right road. To start just walk up the stairs on the left side of the train station and head up.

I have gotten a few pictures from people in Oviedo and will try to post them (or at least a link to them) later to help with making the connection from naranco to la Florida.

This is a great idea to take the bus back, I did that on my Day #1 on the Levante this year and it is a nice way to ease into things and work out your jet lag at the same time. Let us know when you go -- and I will be watching the Albergue Bodenayas web page for your picture -- Alejandro posts pics every morning of every peregrino leaving his place. Hope you can end a day's walk in Bodenaya, it is the absolute albergue highpoint of the Camino Primitivo.

So excited for you two! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[StuartM]

I was planning on visiting Naranco, am I right in thinking you can only visit the two sites by guided tour? Are there any other sites worth visiting round there as well as Santa Maria and San Miguel?

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Stuart,
There is a caretaker who will escort you into both monuments. You cannot go on your own, she is always there to make sure you don't touch! (She told me that when they filmed Vicki Cristina Barcelona there, it was pure torture for her to watch Javier Bardem put his hands all over the stones -- you definitely won't be able to do that!) Pictures allowed in the palace, not in the church. But it is not a hurried or rushed visit, and I have never been with more than one or two other people. On occasion a busload of Spanish tourists arrive, but they rarely go inside, in my experience, just walk around quickly and take a few pics. So if you are not rushed, you will surely have plenty of opportunity to enjoy these places in solitude.

Some would say to continue up to the cross at the top of the mountain, which has a view over the city. I think there is a bus there, but many runners and walkers pass by the churches in early morning on their way up. I've never been up there.

on the edge of Oviedo in a different direction, there is another pre-romanesque church, San Julian de los Prados (also called Santullano). Its fate was worse than the Naranco sites because it is surrounded by busy roads and development. But also very nice and has some unusual paintings inside on the walls.

 

[StuartM]

Thanks, very helpful as usual. At least you aren't alone in your liking for pre-Romanesque sites

 

[peregrina2000]

So glad to see the Romanesque and pre-Romanesque fans coming out of the woodwork!

In the revisions I'm doing to the Salvador booklet, there is a paragraph with details of hours and how to visit Naranco (since as many of you know, the Salvador ends in Oviedo). Here it is in case this helps any of you:

A visit to the church (San Miguel de Lillo) and the palace (Santa Maria de Naranco), is highly recommended. These two pre-romanesque monuments date from the 9th century. They open at 9:30 or 10 a.m. depending on time of year. You must take a guided visit, but it is not hurried at all. The two sites are about a 3 minute walk apart from each other and are unique. The palace is the only non-religious pre-romanesque site remaining in Asturias, and both are open on Mondays! Winter hours (Oct. 1- March 31): Tuesday - Saturday: 10:00 -13:00; 15:00 - 17:00. Sunday and Monday, 10:00 - 13:00. Summer hours (April 1 - Sept. 30): Tuesday - Saturday, 9:30 -13:30; 15:30 - 17:30. Sunday and Monday, 9:30 -13:30. Public transportation is also available to the Naranco sites. Bus #10 costs 1.5 euros (catch it near the train station). Ask the driver when to get off for San Miguel, it is the next to last stop but you won’t have a way of figuring that out unless you ask!

 

[peregrina2000]

A bit more information. I posted a question on the Spanish language forum asking about this question of getting to Escamplero from Naranco. A very nice member who lives in Oviedo actually went up to the site and figured out a few ways to make the connection. He said that maybe he and his friends would mark this route so others could take advantage. Unfortunately, out of nowhere, he was BLASTED by another member who started complaining about the "all powerful" pilgrims who think they can change the camino's route to suit their fashion, etc etc. It got ugly, so I resorted to PMs to avoid his wrath. But there is some good information here in between all the vitriol: http://foroperegrinos.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=334905

I also received some pictures via gmail that illustrate the instructions, but I am incapable of posting them here. If anyone wants to see the pictures, send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward them to you.

Buen camino everyone. Laurie

 

[Susannafromsweden]

on the edge of Oviedo in a different direction, there is another pre-romanesque church, San Julian de los Prados (also called Santullano). Its fate was worse than the Naranco sites because it is surrounded by busy roads and development. But also very nice and has some unusual paintings inside on the walls.

I want visit this church too.
I saw some nice photos of it in the Fotopedia heritage app.
And then I looked it up in google street view. Ouch!
Am glad I checked it up otherwise I may not have found it, as it looks so different irl!

 

[peregrina2000]

From this shot it looks like you will be taking your life in your hands to get there. Don't worry, from downtown Oviedo, there is a very easy, pleasant and safe way to get there, you don't need to be on this highway at all!

 

[angulero]

Desde la catedral hasta San Julián de los Prados se tarda unos 15-20 minutos andando y no hace falta cruzar la autopista.

From the Cathedral to San Julian de los Prados takes about 15-20 minutes and you do not walk across the highway.

Por el lado contrario al que se ve en la foto, hay un parque que si está buen día, es utilizado por la gente que vive en esa parte de la ciudad para pasear, hacer deporte o tomar el sol.

On the opposite side you see in the picture, there is a park if you are good day, is used by the people living in that part of town for walking, sports or sunbathing.

 

[Susannafromsweden]

Thank you Angulero, your photos are much nicer!
It doesn't look too difficult to get there. Should be ok.
Will be fun to see it.

 

[GaryandKatie]

It all sounds good, if a bit confusing.............so we love old churches of every era, even if we don't fully 'get' all the nuances of architecture, style, etc but/and I am trying to sort out the beginning for us............we get to Madrid on the 8th of Sept, hope to catch the 11 train to Oveido, which I think will put us in around 3 or 4 ( 4 or 5 hr train ride?).............thinking we will be tired, our first question/choice is stay in one of the Albergues there (there are 2 I think?) or in a private spot that is quiet, we can get some catch up sleep and then start on the 9th..............we would love to see some of Oveido, these churches and start walking so my questions are does this sound like a good plan? Where would you stay in Oveido? Thinking the good thing about an Albergue is it's a way to get right into the 'river', the flow,etc (but as one whose greatest worry is snorers, maybe I can get in the flow the next day---this is another topic I reckon but I'll be damned if I can find any earplugs that work at all, what do light sleeping non-snorers do? I have stayed with snorers in the past and woken them, moved far away from them,etc..........maybe it as one pilgrim put it, the earplugs don't work but after a few weeks you get used to it ( shoot, I have friends who have moved into their own bedrooms, separate from their spouses because they never got/get used to it). Anyway, if we wanted to put on 10,12, maybe 15 miles, what are your thoughts, say after we caught those churches ( and we are not purists, I am hoping the way out of those churches is well marked) as to where a good first night on the Primitivo might be? Seems like one almost has to work backwards from Bodenaya to assure a night is spent there, yes?

Thanks to all for any/all help!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Gary and Katie,
You'll see, it's not confusing. Probably most of the people walking the Primitivo miss the Naranco church and palace because they are not on the Camino, but for anyone with a love of old buildings they are absolutely incredible.

So, to your questions

There are two albergues, one is actually a private apt. whose owner rents out rooms to medical students, I've been told. It's the Villa Cecilia, and I don't know anyone who has stayed there. Here is their web site: http://www.residenciacentro.zobyhost.com/ It's about a km from the cathedral on foot.

The other is the official Camino albergue. It's a bit closer to the historic center and is now installed in a single family residence. I haven't stayed there either, but I have visited and talked with the hospitalero and it seems pretty nice.

I usually stay in Pension Los Arcos. It is in a great location, a few steps from the ayuntamiento, from the library, and from lots and lots of good restaurants, etc. The owners are really nice, young and enthusiastic, a pair of brothers I think. http://www.hostal-arcos.com/

I haven't stayed in Escamplero either, which is the obvious stopping point if you visit Naranco and want to continue on. There is nothing there but a bar/restaurant and an albergue, which gets mixed reviews. Grado is 21 km from Oviedo, so I don't know what it would be with the detour to Naranco added on. From Grado to the first albergue, San Juan de Villapanada, it's another 5 or 6 km, so that might be pushing it on the first day. But San Juan to Bodenaya is a pretty manageable day. I do highly recommend Bodenaya, I missed it my first time on the Primitivo and won't repeat that mistake, because when I was there last year it was just terrific. To get to Bodenaya from Oviedo would either be two average days of 25-28 with the first night in San Juan, or three short days with several ways to slice that up.

Buen camino, Laurie

and p.s. though you didn't ask, if you want to both see some of Oviedo and the churches of Naranco, another option would be to just spend an extra day in Oviedo and you could do all the touring on that day and then head off on the next day. If you arrive in Oviedo at 4 in the afternoon and leave the next morning to walk, you are not going to have much time at all to see Oviedo, and it is one of the most beautiful small cities in Spain, IMO.

 

[GaryandKatie]

Hi, Gary and Katie,
You'll see, it's not confusing. Probably most of the people walking the Primitivo miss the Naranco church and palace because they are not on the Camino, but for anyone with a love of old buildings they are absolutely incredible.

So, to your questions

There are two albergues, one is actually a private apt. whose owner rents out rooms to medical students, I've been told. It's the Villa Cecilia, and I don't know anyone who has stayed there. Here is their web site: http://www.residenciacentro.zobyhost.com/ It's about a km from the cathedral on foot.

The other is the official Camino albergue. It's a bit closer to the historic center and is now installed in a single family residence. I haven't stayed there either, but I have visited and talked with the hospitalero and it seems pretty nice.

I usually stay in Pension Los Arcos. It is in a great location, a few steps from the ayuntamiento, from the library, and from lots and lots of good restaurants, etc. The owners are really nice, young and enthusiastic, a pair of brothers I think. http://www.hostal-arcos.com/

I haven't stayed in Escamplero either, which is the obvious stopping point if you visit Naranco and want to continue on. There is nothing there but a bar/restaurant and an albergue, which gets mixed reviews. Grado is 21 km from Oviedo, so I don't know what it would be with the detour to Naranco added on. From Grado to the first albergue, San Juan de Villapanada, it's another 5 or 6 km, so that might be pushing it on the first day. But San Juan to Bodenaya is a pretty manageable day. I do highly recommend Bodenaya, I missed it my first time on the Primitivo and won't repeat that mistake, because when I was there last year it was just terrific. To get to Bodenaya from Oviedo would either be two average days of 25-28 with the first night in San Juan, or three short days with several ways to slice that up.

Buen camino, Laurie

and p.s. though you didn't ask, if you want to both see some of Oviedo and the churches of Naranco, another option would be to just spend an extra day in Oviedo and you could do all the touring on that day and then head off on the next day. If you arrive in Oviedo at 4 in the afternoon and leave the next morning to walk, you are not going to have much time at all to see Oviedo, and it is one of the most beautiful small cities in Spain, IMO.

You flat out rock Laurie! Your info is so appreciated, I can't begin to tell you...............if you don't mind, I would like to follow up with a few more questions ( yes, I know I am terrifically full of them, or 'it' as my wife says

I love the idea of staying in Oveido one full day (and there is a distinct chance we won't make the 11 AM train, putting us in at night)......we've obviously never walked the Camino and I notice your 'normal'days are 24, 25 k's and up...now that I think about it, I guess that's about right, we're thinking between 12 and 18 miles a day (with an average 'goal' of 15 or so). I am going to check into the place you recommend in Oveido and again, thanks for that....what are your thoughts about staying right away in an Albergue, to get into the pilgrimage 'flow'? And what has your experience been with the snoring? I know I sound like a baby but I am really a well traveled hombre who actually can deal with anything, including sleep deprivation, just wondering what your experience has been?

Again, thanks so much for your generous spirit, we are excited beyond words...................

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Gary and Katie,

Well, if you are going to spend two nights in Oviedo, to give you a full day there, you technically can't stay in the albergue two nights (I say "technically" because I know the hospitalero there frequently bends the rules if the place isn't full). So you could stay in a private place for night one and move to the albergue for night two, but then you waste a lot of your "full day" in Oviedo moving around. Which is why whenever I walk through Oviedo I go right to the Hostal Arcos and spend two nights there. I always take a rest day in Oviedo because I love that place.

You're right that if you're in an albergue the first night you will leave Oviedo already having seen and met a few people, but you'll meet up with them that evening so I don't think it puts you at a disadvantage or anything like that. The last time I walked from Oviedo, I met five or six of the people who would eventually become my "Camino family" within the first few hours on the route. But of course I didn't know that they would be those people then, it took a few days to gel.

I always hesitate to tell people "what to do", so take this just as one person's idea. If you spend a full day in Oviedo and visit the Naranco churches and the town during the day, get a good night's sleep in a pension that night, and get up and leave no later than 7 am the next morning, you will be able to pace yourself nicely to make it to San Juan de Villapanada on the first night. That is another great albergue with a hospitalero who really cares a lot, makes a communal dinner, and gives more advice than I do . Buy food in Grado, take a good rest in Grado, and then finish the last 4 or 5 kms up to San Juan. It's in an amazing setting. Staying in Grado, which is a much nicer 21 kms, means you have to stay in a hotel or pension and you can't experience the lovely albergue environment in San Juan. I think it's definitely worth the push, so long as your body isn't screaming to stop.



Ah, the snoring. Yes it is sometimes almost unbearable. Most ear plugs just fall out of my ear, but I love Ototaps. I buy them in Spain, they are little balls of wax with some furry substance around them. Sold in boxes of 12, I think, about 4 euros a box. They mold perfectly to the shape of your outer ear, they are cheap enough to discard after a few nights when the furry stuff wears off, and they relegate the sounds to the background. Sort of like when I was in the process of "going under" with a general anesthesia and I had this vague distant sensation of sound but nothing piercing into my consciousness, if that makes any sense. I personally don't understand why albergues don't get a big industrial fan and set it on high for the whole night -- I think we all would sleep much better with a constant loud white noise in the background. But I digress.... Bottom line -- ear plugs will never block it all but can reduce the extent to which it wakes you up, I think. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[annakappa]

X Gary and Kate. We will be following you some days later. I presume that you are from the States and therefore have jet lag to deal with. We have 8 hours difference. Plus the journey itself. So we have always slept in a hotel, pension or Casa Rural the first night. Do not be tempted to hang around in bed the next morning. Get up, say at the very latest by 8 am. We will also walk and visit the to Romanic churches in Naranjo and then will continue on to Escamplero, from where we will take the local bus back to Oviedo, stay another night and then, the next morning bus back to where we left off and start walking from there. We don't want to overdo it the first day and because we really want to take advantage of visiting Oviedo, we decided on this rather unusual beginning. (Usually we just simply walk a 20 k. Day on our first day).
For me, ear plugs are essential. Adriaan never bothers with them. Ours are courtesy of Iberia and are super. I usually don't hear a thing! It takes about 3 or 4 minutes to get them positioned correctly. You need a bit of patience! Anne

 

[GaryandKatie]

Hi, Gary and Katie,

Well, if you are going to spend two nights in Oviedo, to give you a full day there, you technically can't stay in the albergue two nights (I say "technically" because I know the hospitalero there frequently bends the rules if the place isn't full). So you could stay in a private place for night one and move to the albergue for night two, but then you waste a lot of your "full day" in Oviedo moving around. Which is why whenever I walk through Oviedo I go right to the Hostal Arcos and spend two nights there. I always take a rest day in Oviedo because I love that place.

You're right that if you're in an albergue the first night you will leave Oviedo already having seen and met a few people, but you'll meet up with them that evening so I don't think it puts you at a disadvantage or anything like that. The last time I walked from Oviedo, I met five or six of the people who would eventually become my "Camino family" within the first few hours on the route. But of course I didn't know that they would be those people then, it took a few days to gel.

I always hesitate to tell people "what to do", so take this just as one person's idea. If you spend a full day in Oviedo and visit the Naranco churches and the town during the day, get a good night's sleep in a pension that night, and get up and leave no later than 7 am the next morning, you will be able to pace yourself nicely to make it to San Juan de Villapanada on the first night. That is another great albergue with a hospitalero who really cares a lot, makes a communal dinner, and gives more advice than I do (so nod and smile politely and then do what you want). Buy food in Grado, take a good rest in Grado, and then finish the last 4 or 5 kms up to San Juan. It's in an amazing setting. Staying in Grado, which is a much nicer 21 kms, means you have to stay in a hotel or pension and you can't experience the lovely albergue environment in San Juan. I think it's definitely worth the push, so long as your body is screaming to stop.

Thanks again, you are really a fount of info! And we're not worried about meeting up with peeps, we both know, w/o having done this, to simply trust the process ( just get in the 'river, you can't force it) Your suggestions ( and I appreciate you dispensing some advice, I 'get' your reticence) I guess the only thing is if there is no room in San Juan de Villapanada but then, I am not going to worry about things like that ( we will most definitely NOT be the ones getting up at 5 and rushing out, no disrespect to any/all that do). Going to put the Ototaps high on my list when I get there! Mucho gracias!


View attachment 5963 View attachment 5964

Ah, the snoring. Yes it is sometimes almost unbearable. Most ear plugs just fall out of my ear, but I love Ototaps. I buy them in Spain, they are little balls of wax with some furry substance around them. Sold in boxes of 12, I think, about 4 euros a box. They mold perfectly to the shape of your outer ear, they are cheap enough to discard after a few nights when the furry stuff wears off, and they relegate the sounds to the background. Sort of like when I was in the process of "going under" with a general anesthesia and I had this vague distant sensation of sound but nothing piercing into my consciousness, if that makes any sense. I personally don't understand why albergues don't get a big industrial fan and set it on high for the whole night -- I think we all would sleep much better with a constant loud white noise in the background. But I digress.... Bottom line -- ear plugs will never block it all but can reduce the extent to which it wakes you up, I think. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[GaryandKatie]

X Gary and Kate. We will be following you some days later. I presume that you are from the States and therefore have jet lag to deal with. We have 8 hours difference. Plus the journey itself. So we have always slept in a hotel, pension or Casa Rural the first night. Do not be tempted to hang around in bed the next morning. Get up, say at the very latest by 8 am. We will also walk and visit the to Romanic churches in Naranjo and then will continue on to Escamplero, from where we will take the local bus back to Oviedo, stay another night and then, the next morning bus back to where we left off and start walking from there. We don't want to overdo it the first day and because we really want to take advantage of visiting Oviedo, we decided on this rather unusual beginning. (Usually we just simply walk a 20 k. Day on our first day).
For me, ear plugs are essential. Adriaan never bothers with them. Ours are courtesy of Iberia and are super. I usually don't hear a thing! It takes about 3 or 4 minutes to get them positioned correctly. You need a bit of patience! Anne

Hi there! When are you all coming over to start? I think I've made the management decision to stay in Oveido for 2 nights, one full day.........we don't fly out of Madrid until the 30th so really, we are not in a huge rush from the 10th until the 26'th or 27th to do it....thinking about spending a day in Lugo also..........what do you think about that? Feel free to weigh in on that one also Laurie! Since we aren't flying Iberia, I won't be able to access the same ear plugs you have............also thinking of bringing my ipod and just blasting soothing ( a bit of a contradiction) music at night.....Thanks also, for your insights................where do you all live in CR?

 

[annakappa]

Gary, we leave Costa Rica on the night of 17th September. We have booked accommodation at, what looks like a really nice hotel, in the centre of the old town, for two nights. Hotel Vetusta or Vetusa I think it's called ( don't have my notes with me right now). After the Primitivo, we are going to jump over to Porto and walk the Camino Portuguez, before returning to CR on 17th Oct. We live in a small town called Santo Domingo de Heredia. Burn Camino! Anne

 

[StuartM]

what are your thoughts about staying right away in an Albergue, to get into the pilgrimage 'flow'?

I'm happy to rough it on trips but my two rules are first night and last night in a nice hotel. In both cases you're usually tired and a bit mentally worn out and a little bit of relative luxury really helps.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi there! ...thinking about spending a day in Lugo also..........what do you think about that? Feel free to weigh in on that one also Laurie!

I don't need much encouragement to weigh in so I'll throw in my opinion on Lugo. I love Lugo, I think it's a beautiful city, nice atmosphere, nice people. I have never spent two nights there, primarily because the people I was walking with at that point were going to move on the next day, and the choice was a day in Lugo or staying with my Camino family. I knew that ahead of time, so what I did to give myself a little more time in Lugo was to go on beyond Cadavo to Castroverde and spend a night there. That meant my next day into Lugo was much shorter and I had plenty of time to enjoy the city, to the extent that you can "enjoy a city" in a half day. The albergue is right inside the walls, great location, everything historic is a stone's throw away, so a full afternoon/evening is really a fair amount of time to walk around, see the cathedral, sit in a cafe, eat some pulpo, even had time to walk on the walls a bit! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[GaryandKatie]

I don't need much encouragement to weigh in so I'll throw in my opinion on Lugo. I love Lugo, I think it's a beautiful city, nice atmosphere, nice people. I have never spent two nights there, primarily because the people I was walking with at that point were going to move on the next day, and the choice was a day in Lugo or staying with my Camino family. I knew that ahead of time, so what I did to give myself a little more time in Lugo was to go on beyond Cadavo to Castroverde and spend a night there. That meant my next day into Lugo was much shorter and I had plenty of time to enjoy the city, to the extent that you can "enjoy a city" in a half day. The albergue is right inside the walls, great location, everything historic is a stone's throw away, so a full afternoon/evening is really a fair amount of time to walk around, see the cathedral, sit in a cafe, eat some pulpo, even had time to walk on the walls a bit! Buen camino, Laurie

Got to love walking on walls! Like Lucca, in Italy, or Avignon, in France ( sorry don't mean to be a wall/name dropper, I just remembered how much we liked those places, and those walls! Yep, great advice on first and last nights, we almost always end up that way though sometime being close to the airport on the last night trumps that...............love the recommendations, thoughts.................for me trips, even, or maybe especially this pilgrimage consist of three parts 1) planning/dreaming/scheming...........2) doing it 3) recalling/remembering it whether through conversation, pix, journals,whatever and the planning so far has been more of an equipment/training/ spiritual type...it feels really good/familiar to be thinking about some details.......and making some plans............I emailed the Hostal, waiting to hear back

Thanks again!

 

[angulero]

Este viernes, la etapa de la Vuelta Ciclista a España acaba en el Naranco. Seguro que pondrán imágenes de Santa María del Naranco y San Miguel de Lillo durante la subida y al final de la etapa.

This Friday, the stage of the Vuelta Ciclista a España finishes in Naranco. Sure you put images of Santa María del Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo during the rise and end of the stage.

 

[angulero]

Si alguno quiere ver las imágenes del Naranco, acordaros que es hoy a las tres. Santa María del Naranco está justo al lado de la pancarta de tres kilómetros a meta.

 

[fraluchi]

We seem to have a few walking experts on this Forum with knowledge as to how to get back on the Camino Primitivo from Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo churches. (Oviedo) Consulting Google Earth at the location of these churches, there seems to be a path going up for 200 mt. North-west of San Miguel de Lillo, connecting with a road which runs parallel North of the Centro Asturiano. If indeed this is possible, I figured that it should be shorter and possible to go straight down towards Ules, and from there to El Llano and Lampaya. From Lampaya, take first road left and follow until crossing. Go down 100 mtrs., turn right direction Loriana. From Loriana follow signs of the actual Camino to Escamplero.
Angulero ¿que te parece?

 

[peregrina2000]

We seem to have a few walking experts on this Forum with knowledge as to how to get back on the Camino Primitivo from Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo churches. (Oviedo) Consulting Google Earth at the location of these churches, there seems to be a path going up for 200 mt. North-west of San Miguel de Lillo, connecting with a road which runs parallel North of the Centro Asturiano. If indeed this is possible, I figured that it should be shorter and possible to go straight down towards Ules, and from there to El Llano and Lampaya. From Lampaya, take first road left and follow until crossing. Go down 100 mtrs., turn right direction Loriana. From Loriana follow signs of the actual Camino to Escamplero.
Angulero ¿que te parece?

Fraluchi, here is the text of the posting in the Spanish forum on this topic. One of the options given has to do with going to Ules. I won't translate it, since I know you hablas castellano:

Después de haberte interesado por el tema de conectar los monumentos del Naranco con el Primitivo, sin tener que dar la vuelta a Oviedo, tengo que comunicarte que hoy hemos ido a comprobar in "situ" las diversas posibilidades que existen y todas muy asequibles, al menos las cinco que hemos visionado. Tres las hemos hecho andando y otras dos en coche. La mejor opción, o al menos la que nos pareció más correcta, tanto a Luis como a mi, fue la de subir por la carretera que sube a los monumentos, teniendo cuidado el último tramo de coger un camino a la izquierda que sube directamente a los dos monumentos. Una vez visitados, MERECE MUCHO LA PENA, se vuelve a bajar hasta el aparcamiento de coches que hay un poco más abajo y desde la esquina oeste del aparcamiento, baja un camino para entrar en un precioso parque, llamado de PURIFICACION Tomás, por el que atravesándolo siempre en dirección sur-oeste, se enlaza con el camino que acaba en el último edificio del barrio de la FLORIDA, de donde parte el camino en dirección a Grado. De esa manera ni atajas, ni recorres mucho camino innecesario, ya que lo que consigues es ir por el parque en vez de bajar otra vez a Oviedo y recorrer los barrios de la Argañosa y la Florida, que si ya lo has hecho te darías cuenta que no es más que calles y semáforos sin nada digno de reseñar.
En el caso de no acertar con esta salida, aparentemente fácil, si se sigue en dirección a Ules, a dos kms., se puede bajar por dos carreterinas diferentes que van a dar al camino con una desviación de 500 m, una de la otra. Si tampoco se cogen estas dos bajadas en casi linea recta, se puede seguir andando otros dos kms, y se llega directamente a LAMPAYA, justo donde existe una hermita que todo el que haya pasado, seguro que sacó alguna foto de ella

 

[fraluchi]

Thank you Laurie for this text (which by the way I had already since I am a member of this same Spanish Forum), but my question was about a possible path Northwest from the San Miguel church to the Centro Asturiano. It would mean going up instead of down. I'll investigate this "in situ" next week, since it's only 200 meters, and report on it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you Laurie for this text (which by the way I had already since I am a member of this same Spanish Forum), but my question was about a possible path Northwest from the San Miguel church to the Centro Asturiano. It would mean going up instead of down. I'll investigate this "in situ" next week, since it's only 200 meters, and report on it.

Sorry, I wasn't thinking -- I just remembered that I had only seen mention of Ules in one spot in all of this discussion. (I remembered you jumped in to defend poor josines!). But I finally looked at a map, and I think you're absolutely right -- looks like a hop, skip, and a jump over green to get to roads that lead into Ules.

So you'll be doing some exploring of your own, hoping you enjoy that first day to Escamplero! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[angulero]

We seem to have a few walking experts on this Forum with knowledge as to how to get back on the Camino Primitivo from Naranco and San Miguel de Lillo churches. (Oviedo) Consulting Google Earth at the location of these churches, there seems to be a path going up for 200 mt. North-west of San Miguel de Lillo, connecting with a road which runs parallel North of the Centro Asturiano. If indeed this is possible, I figured that it should be shorter and possible to go straight down towards Ules, and from there to El Llano and Lampaya. From Lampaya, take first road left and follow until crossing. Go down 100 mtrs., turn right direction Loriana. From Loriana follow signs of the actual Camino to Escamplero.
Angulero ¿que te parece?

No te puedo ayudar. Vivo a cuarenta kilómetros de Oviedo, así que no conozco tan bien la ciudad como para saber esos atajos. Lo siento.