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Via de la Plata at 70

Janbei

New Member
I've always had a very real desire to complete (mostly) one of the camino routes before I was 70. Well, I've now reached that age and have decided it's now or never and plan to walk the Via de la Plata with a friend in April 2014. I did complete part of the Camino Frances several years ago but it was with luggage transported which has always seemed to me a bit like cheating! To be realistic I would like to walk parts of the Via de la Plata and take public transport along some sections so would be grateful for any advice on this subject. I've read many books on the subject and the Forum comments have been most helpful but any extra advice for an 'oldie' would be most helpful. I'm fairly fit and can walk 15-20K with no problem but can I do it day after day? Also I've never had to carry a fully loaded rucksack so advice on this subject would be much appreciated.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I only started walking caminos at 62. Before I started I thought I would never be able to walk more than 15k a day, but as day 1 was Roncesvalles to Zubiri, in the snow and ice, I got broken in the hard way. I discovered that stamina is developed as you walk.
The Via de la Plata has some long stretches but not too many. If you start in Seville then Day 3 is long but lots of people take a taxi for the first 10k. After that it really isn't too hard and there is no rush to get a bed, not usually anyway, if there is just drop back a day. Just walk March/April rather than when it is too hot. You can do it, just relax and enjoy. It is a beautiful camino with some impressive cities to see.
 
Janbei, When I started out my situation was exactly as yours – 20 km was OK as a one off, but could I handle it day after day? Take heart – this is do-able. Only two bits of advice from a fellow septuagenarian who walked Seville to Finisterre last year: start slowly, and keep your pack weight within reason.

The VDLP allows a slow start, except for day 3; though as Sulu notes, you can take a taxi for the first 14 km along the road. I walked it and had no problem. Albergues are frequently spaced so that you face the choice of a shortish day or a rather long one. I always went for the former. For your info my first few days were as follows:
Sevilla
Guillena (23)
Castilblanco de las Arroyas (19)
Almaden (29)
El Real de la Jara (16)
Monesterio (21)
Fuenta de Cantos (22)
Zafra (26)
Villafranca de las Barios (19)
Torremejia (28)
Merida (16)
You could shorten the Zafra stage by staying at Puebla de Sancho Perez.

After Merida you will be fully aware of what is comfortable for you.

As far as packweight goes, mine is around 10 kg, for 72 kg bodyweight. That is towards the upper end of the recommended 10-15% of bodyweight, but I found it well manageable.

Just enjoy it – this is a wonderful camino
 
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Hi Janbei and welcome to the Camino forum. As the earlier posters have commented the Camino Mozarab or Via de La Plata is considered the more difficult of the Caminos.
Backpack - 10 kg max - so will tell you that's with water some will allow another 1.5 kg for water and there are parts of this Camino when you will need to carry 2 or more litres although starting in April you will avoid the hotter months;
Yes you can pick and choose which stages you wish to walk and enjoy and those that you want to bus around. Most of the guide books indicate around 33 days to walk the full Camino - but that requires more than a few days of 30+ kms per day. Even for me @ 64 this was not enjoyable. My recommendation is to try to alternate between short days (10-15km) followed by a slightly longer (say up to 20km). One area or group of stages you could skip is between Caceres and Galisteo and again (say) between Salamanca and Zamora. That you are planning to walk with a friend is good - you need someone to relive the day with over a glass or two or tino vino (red wine). You should also try to schedule rest days (say after each week - walk 6 or 7 days and then have a day off). There are some very old cities on this Camino - Merida and Caceres have both been around since Roman times and Salamanca is definitely worth a day or two.
One other tip - start practicing your Spanish - it will make communication a lot easier as there is not a long of English spoken is this part of Spain. Good luck or as we say "buen Camino". :D
 
Hi Janbei,
I completed the Camino Frances this year satring from SJPD on April 4. It was my first Camino. I loved every day of it.

I am walking the Via de la Plata next April as well. I will be 65. When are you leaving? I am looking for walking companions as I am not keen on walking such a long distance alone. I am from Western Australia.
 
I'm 65 and in May of this year I completed the VdlP route from Seville to Astorga and then on to Santiago. The VdlP is a tough route, but as others have already said, it's doable. I also agree that if you are concerned about your body holding up, on the third day out of Seville take a cab from Castilblanco de los Arroyos to the park on the way to Almadén de la Plata - save yourself the discomfort of 14 kilometers of walking on the highway and you'll be in better shape to tackle Mount Calvary at the end of the stage.

I started my Camino swearing I'd never take a bus or cab, but wound up taking one anyway. The Camino doesn't exist on a map, it's in your heart. And if you are comfortable taking a cab or bus to avoid over-burdening your body or avoiding bad weather - then go for it.

I just finished a web site on my journey that might be helpful (http://camino.bsewall.com), which includes pages on my itinerary and my packing list.

One final word - take the advice above about packing light. Pack just the bare minimum. It will greatly reduce the wear and tear on your body. I packed way too much and my body responded accordingly.

Buen Camino!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I also agree that if you are concerned about your body holding up, on the third day out of Seville take a cab from Castilblanco de los Arroyos to the park on the way to Almadén de la Plata - save yourself the discomfort of 14 kilometers of walking on the highway and you'll be in better shape to tackle Mount Calvary at the end of the stage.

That 14kms is not bad, there is almost no traffic and it is through countryside. Sometimes some of the worst problems are the ones we imagine we will get :) when I walked that way some of the people who took taxis actually walked on further when they got to Almaden. That steep walk is steep, I can't think of another one as steep on the whole camino, I found the vultures, circling overhead,disconcerting, I was sure they knew I wouldn't make it to the top :) but that's because I can't do hills, I just have to grin and bear it. On the whole it was a lovely walk. I went prepared with sandwiches and drinks, the bar in Castilblanco will provide, and made a point of stopping regularly.
 
I walked the last 2 weeks of the VdLP with a Dutchman aged 68 and a Spaniard aged 73. They had walked together from Malaga. Both were fitter and stronger than I at 53.
 
I was blown away by two guys from Belgium that I met in Arzua before I reached Santiago. One was 70 and the other was 75. They were on their 4th or 5th Camino. What was notable was that the 70 year old had significant problems with his legs and was doing the Camino Francais with a walker on wheels (with the back pack suspended on the walker). His buddy would walk along beside and they slowly made it across the Camino.

It's not just, "If the two guys from Belgium can do it, so can I." There is something about the Camino that sustains Pilgrims, inspires them to return year after year, and keeps them going in the face of incredible adversity. I was inspired by those two guys.
 
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I strongly agree with bsewall. On that day3, we took a taxi to the National park and walked from there. It was a relief to escape the first 14 kms of narrow asphalt road (in heavy rain...), and the park is a natural wonder to walk through, and very good starting point for the day. On another occation we took a bus, because it was 40 kms with nothing that day, and I know I cannot do 40 kms in one day. So I don't feel ashamed of it. :|

Follow bsewall's advice :wink:
 
hello janbei,

welcome to the club of oldies who have decided to do the camino de santiago.

i am an oldie like you with no experience of hiking, short or long distance. i was 2 months shy of 70 when i decided to do my second camino, the via de la plata (camino mozarabe), alone during this past february/march from sevilla to sdc in 36 walking days, a distance of 1000 kilometers (including getting lost). this excluded a few rest days in merida and salamanca. my first camino was the camino frances in may/june of last year from sjpdp to sdc in 31 days, a distance of almost 800 kilometers to included distance getting lost.

based on my experience i would like to offer a few suggestions. you will be starting in april of next year. first of all if you are fairly fit and can walk 15-20 kms each day, you should be ok. the camino is not a marathon and this is your camino. you can walk as short or as long a distance as you like. you are not cheating by having luggage transported or taking public transportation at some sections. if you aim is to obtain a compostela at the end of your camino in sdc, you must walk the last 100 kms on foot.

keep your backpack as light as possible, preferably 10% of your body weight not counting any water or food. there are long stretches of stage without any access to water fountain. i don't know what the weather is going to be like next april. if it is any indication like this year, you might want to make sure you are warm. all the municipal and xunta albergues will be opened from april on. don't overload your backpack. in some sections you will need to bring 2 litres of water (equivalent to 2 extra kilos). you will more likely encountered heavy rain starting from zamora up the galicia coast to sdc. so make sure your contents in your backpack are protected with plastic bags or ziplocks. use a rucksack cover or black rubbish bag to protect it from rain. also good idea to have rain gears. my preference is for a lightweight poncho rather than a waterproof polyester rain jacket. start slowly. you will notice the first stage is quite short. i don't know if you are a history buff or not. if so, you might enjoy italica, caparra, merida, caceres. take rest days in merida, salamanca and ourense (thermal baths).

also listen to all the advice from alan & company regarding what sections to bypass with public transport and also what to see.

let me know if you need any more info. buen camino and god bless.
 

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