Via de la Plata, Portuguese variant

[gracethepilgrim]

After completing a spring VdlP in 2008, I’m now well into planning an autumn VdlP from Sevilla this year (2014). I’m considering taking the Portuguese variant from Zamora - Braganza - Verin but am finding it difficult to obtain up to date info on potential stops and albergues/places to stay. (Note that I am waiting on Alison’s booklet to arrive).
I’d welcome any tips, info or advice from pilgrims who have anything to share on this route.
Many thanks, Grace

 

[Perejil]

Hi Gracethepilgrim
I have been planning to walk the Sanabres and starting in Verin.
A good booklet I found was well worth downloading.
It shows both the northern and southern trails along with some inspirational photos along the way.
I've also found that there is construction on the northern trail to Ourense for a high speed railway, but we should be able to avoid most of it by taking the southern trail.

 

[peregrina2000]

After completing a spring VdlP in 2008, I’m now well into planning an autumn VdlP from Sevilla this year (2014). I’m considering taking the Portuguese variant from Zamora - Braganza - Verin but am finding it difficult to obtain up to date info on potential stops and albergues/places to stay. (Note that I am waiting on Alison’s booklet to arrive).
I’d welcome any tips, info or advice from pilgrims who have anything to share on this route.
Many thanks, Grace

Hi, Grace, you should PM Eze, who has been back on the forum recently. He walked that route a few years ago. Here are some threads that discuss this variant:

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/caminho-portugues-de-la-prata.8982/

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/camino-portugues-de-la-via-de-la-plata.2135/

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/via-de-la-plata-de-portugal.16818/

I walked the first 24 km from Zamora to San Pedro de la Nave, just so I could see this amazing church, I believe it dates from the 7th or 8th century, so it's visigothic. Beautiful inside, really it is incredible. Buen camino, good luck with this little-traveled route, Laurie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks everyone, I’m slowly getting enough information together to feel a little more confident.
Laurie, I contacted Eze and have translated his wonderful account (from French) - very useful.
Cheers, Grace

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Still gathering info (Alison’s book now arrived). My kit is permanently laid out on the table so I can do the daily ‘add’ and ‘subtract’ routine. As I don’t leave NZ until late August, I’m sure I’ll get over it soon enough. jajaja
I’d still be interested to hear from anyone who has any new info on the Portuguese variant (or indeed any part of VdlP as I’m starting in Sevilla)
Cheers Grace

 

[Magwood]

Hi Gracethepilgrim
I have been planning to walk the Sanabres and starting in Verin.
A good booklet I found was well worth downloading.
It shows both the northern and southern trails along with some inspirational photos along the way.
I've also found that there is construction on the northern trail to Ourense for a high speed railway, but we should be able to avoid most of it by taking the southern trail.

Thank you so much for this link - what a beautiful publication.
Maggie

 

[Magwood]

After completing a spring VdlP in 2008, I’m now well into planning an autumn VdlP from Sevilla this year (2014). I’m considering taking the Portuguese variant from Zamora - Braganza - Verin but am finding it difficult to obtain up to date info on potential stops and albergues/places to stay. (Note that I am waiting on Alison’s booklet to arrive).
I’d welcome any tips, info or advice from pilgrims who have anything to share on this route.
Many thanks, Grace

Hi Grace, you have made me interested in this route. Can you give a little more information regarding 'Alison's booklet' please?
Many thanks, Maggie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Maggie - you can buy it from the CSJ (Confraternity of St James) site - Alison Raju has written a guide to the VdlP (or Camino Mozarabe) and a supplementary guidefor route C from Zamora-Braganza-Santiago. You can order it from their bookshop. The current one was written in 2005 and there are a update sheets. I hope to hear from someone who has walked either last year or this year with more current info.
Cheers Grace (PS - are you living in Sevilla? I will be staying there for a week before I depart)

 

[Magwood]

(PS - are you living in Sevilla? I will be staying there for a week before I depart)

Thanks for that info Grace, I will take a look.
I live close to Málaga (about an hour to the east and north). I am thinking I might walk from my front door next time, perhaps as far as Merida, and then go back and walk from Merida to Santiago the following year. The Portuguese diversion interests me. Will you be writing a blog?
Buen camino / bom caminho!

 

[sulu]

I walked from Zamora to Braganca and then from Chaves to Verin last March i.e 2013. My blog is http://notdunroaminyet.blogspot.com and the appropriate bit would be Via de la plata part 2, week 3. I sent my comments to Alison Raju so they should be included in the updates. I got the bus from Braganca to Chaves because there seems to be little or no accommodation between Braganca and Verin. I was walking in March and not prepared to sleep on a church porch, neither did I want to have to get a taxi backwards in the afternoon in order to get a taxi again the next day, which is one of the suggestions.
I enjoyed changing to the route through Portugal, it made a change. I found people very friendly and helpful.
All the best with your plans.
Sue

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks for that info Grace, I will take a look.
Will you be writing a blog?
Buen camino / bom caminho!

Hi Margaret, I wrote a blog of my first VdlP in 2008 here http://www.travbuddy.com/travel-blogs/30699/ but this time around I think I will revert to pen and paper and no camera. My desire is to really relax and enjoy my journey without any pressure to have to communicate to my world back home. Feel free to read the last blog though - it will give you an idea of the main route. Cheers, Grace

 

[gracethepilgrim]

I walked from Zamora to Braganca and then from Chaves to Verin last March i.e 2013. My blog is http://notdunroaminyet.blogspot.com and the appropriate bit would be Via de la plata part 2, week 3. I sent my comments to Alison Raju so they should be included in the updates. I got the bus from Braganca to Chaves because there seems to be little or no accommodation between Braganca and Verin. I was walking in March and not prepared to sleep on a church porch, neither did I want to have to get a taxi backwards in the afternoon in order to get a taxi again the next day, which is one of the suggestions.
I enjoyed changing to the route through Portugal, it made a change. I found people very friendly and helpful.
All the best with your plans.
Sue

Hi Sue - what a great blog. You had the worst of weather though. I hope that in October I have better luck. I like that I now have the Chaves option to think about too. Cheers Grace

 

[sulu]

Hi Grace, it wasn't particularly that I had bad weather but that the bad weather preceded me ! Certainly in October, even if it rains, the ground should be dry and able to soak up the water. It may even be warm enough to sleep on a church porch When I went back to finish, from Verin to Santiago, I walked to Laza and used the Sanabres and the albergues, it is easy to walk from Verin to Laza even though it is mostly on a road.
Bom caminho, Sue

 

[gracethepilgrim]

When I went back to finish, from Verin to Santiago, I walked to Laza and used the Sanabres and the albergues, it is easy to walk from Verin to Laza even though it is mostly on a road.
Bom caminho, Sue

Hi Sue, I spent hours yesterday collating all my notes and I have several options now. I like the idea of doing Verin to Laza. I also understand why you detoured to Chaves. It still looks like there is nowhere to stay Edral/Sandi/Segirei area. As I suffer from the cold I won’t be sleeping under the stars alone. Cheers Grace

 

[sulu]

Hi Sue, I spent hours yesterday collating all my notes and I have several options now. I like the idea of doing Verin to Laza. I also understand why you detoured to Chaves. It still looks like there is nowhere to stay Edral/Sandi/Segirei area. As I suffer from the cold I won’t be sleeping under the stars alone. Cheers Grace

Hi Grace
If you were to detour to Chaves you could do it from Vinhais, which would mean not cutting off so much. The buses from Braganca go through Vinhais and it is quite a busy little town, it looked like it had a few small hotels. It is only Segirei that may not have anywhere to stay, I haven't seen a recent update on the state of play there now. Chaves is well worth a visit.
Sue

 

[Magwood]

Loved your blog @sulu - thanks so much for providing the link. You don't mention any foot problems - I would have thought you would have at least suffered from 'trench foot' with so much surface water to contend with. Absolutely full marks for keeping going in such conditions.

I have book marked your blog and am sure to refer to it many time before I embark on my hoped for camino Mozarabe from Málaga next year.

 

[sulu]

Loved your blog @sulu - thanks so much for providing the link. You don't mention any foot problems - I would have thought you would have at least suffered from 'trench foot' with so much surface water to contend with. Absolutely full marks for keeping going in such conditions.

I have book marked your blog and am sure to refer to it many time before I embark on my hoped for camino Mozarabe from Málaga next year.

Thanks Magwood.
I was also astonished that I didn't get 'trench foot' or something similar. I was very, very lucky that I got no problems, but it did teach me to check my boots each time. As I only walk in Spring and Autumn I often get wet and frequently dry my boots next to radiators and heaters, I hadn't realised that I had cracks on my boots, or that they would let in water, even from morning dew, now I will watch my boots, however I doubt that there will be many years when the cows stand in water up to their knees in Extremadura .. in Galicia maybe