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Search 69,459 Camino Questions

LIVE from the Camino Third time on Via de la Plata this April

Albertagirl

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances; Aragones; VdlP; Madrid-Invierno; Levante
I shall be walking on the VdlP for the third time this year, in a very different way from my previous walks. My first walk: from Seville to Santiago in the autumn, was straight through with no days off, little time to rush through the major cities, and no off-route adventures to visit interesting locations. A longing to spend time in Zamora has remained in me ever since. This year, I am going to Spain in the spring, leaving on March 28th and spending the first half of April as a hospitalera in Calzadilla de los Hermanillos before beginning my walk.
My second walk on the VdlP was the last section of my walk on the Levante: once again, only one night in Zamora on my way through to Santiago. As I pondered this year's plans for Zamora, I realized that I can use my walking time this year to fill in what I missed on previous walks. I have no particular urge to start in Seville again, but I really want to spend some time in Merida wandering around to enjoy the many reminders of Roman times which remain there. After I leave Merida, the next day I shall head for the detour to Santa Maria del Trampal, a 7th century church which I did not choose to leave my route to visit on my last time through. A few days later I can walk a new Via Verde, which passes through Hervas, a town which I decided not to go off route to visit when I passed nearby previously. I am moving into a new style of pilgrimage. Yes, I am going to Santiago, but I shall pause, or take a short detour, to enjoy what meets me along the way.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

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My planning is progressing- just as well, as I leave in ten days. I spent much of last night musing about the 33 km. walk from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral: my longest day with no accommodation. The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed and the fishing guest house does not take pilgrims, both situations exactly as they were when I last walked the VdlP. Consulting my detailed planning list, I find that it will be late April when I walk this section of the route, so I can hope for comfortable temperatures. If I carry enough water, all should be well, and no more over 30 km. days. I remind myself that my 75th birthday will take place earlier in April and I am not in the best shape, with cold winter days in Calgary discouraging long walks. I shall be out for a walk with a friend this afternoon, and no more public transit until I leave, if the distance is doable.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
My planning is progressing- just as well, as I leave in ten days. I spent much of last night musing about the 33 km. walk from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral: my longest day with no accommodation. The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed and the fishing guest house does not take pilgrims, both situations exactly as they were when I last walked the VdlP. Consulting my detailed planning list, I find that it will be late April when I walk this section of the route, so I can hope for comfortable temperatures. If I carry enough water, all should be well, and no more over 30 km. days. I remind myself that my 75th birthday will take place earlier in April and I am not in the best shape, with cold winter days in Calgary discouraging long walks. I shall be out for a walk with a friend this afternoon, and no more public transit until I leave, if the distance is doable.
Our paths might cross. My "loosely planned" itinerary has me stepping out of Seville on 4/16 and walking the Casar de Caceres to Carnaveral leg on 4/28. But you know what they say about the "best laid plans". If we do bump into each other I promise you a smile, and any support you request. While I'm guilty of "wandering", I've never been "lost. And I've never met a stranger. Simply made a new friend. Don't be afraid if you find me talking to the animals. I'm not crazy. Simply a few beers short of a 6-pack.

Peace, Love, & Ultreia
 
My planning is progressing- just as well, as I leave in ten days. I spent much of last night musing about the 33 km. walk from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral: my longest day with no accommodation. The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed and the fishing guest house does not take pilgrims, both situations exactly as they were when I last walked the VdlP. Consulting my detailed planning list, I find that it will be late April when I walk this section of the route, so I can hope for comfortable temperatures. If I carry enough water, all should be well, and no more over 30 km. days. I remind myself that my 75th birthday will take place earlier in April and I am not in the best shape, with cold winter days in Calgary discouraging long walks. I shall be out for a walk with a friend this afternoon, and no more public transit until I leave, if the distance is doable.
It has long been customary for many walkers to take a taxi from Castilblanco to the National Park gate in order to cut down the km on that stretch to Amaden. I don't know if there is a taxi in Casar, but if so it might be an idea to get a ride to the Embalse Bridge, and take it from there. Peace of mind.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I don't know if there is a taxi in Casar, but if so it might be an idea to get a ride to the Embalse Bridge, and take it from there.
The problem is that you would then skip the nice part of the stage. I have heard of some people arranging a taxi from Cañaveral to pick them up at the Embalse. However, that arrangement is a bit trickier, especially if one doesn't speak much Spanish.
 
The pilgrim hostel at the Embalse is closed
I heard from the former albergue operator last fall that they were looking for someone new to run the albergue, but that they also had not yet solved the problems with the plumbing/water/sewage that have plagued the place for years. I have written to him again to see if he has any updates — even though he is no longer associated with it, maybe he’ll have some info.

For @Albertagirl and others walking the Vdlp this year, I can’t resist sounding like a school marm and reminding people not to walk on the highway out of Cáceres. On a workday early morning, it is terrifying. The steady stream of cars coming to work in Cáceres put you in danger frequently — the worst part is when you see a car passing a car coming towards you and you just pray both stay in their lanes…..

Anyway, I beieve the route has now been remarked, but I really urge people not to shave the few kms off by taking the narrow, busy road with little in the way of shoulders.

This thread describes the much better option.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
It has long been customary for many walkers to take a taxi from Castilblanco to the National Park gate in order to cut down the km on that stretch to Amaden. I don't know if there is a taxi in Casar, but if so it might be an idea to get a ride to the Embalse Bridge, and take it from there. Peace of mind.

I don’t see any taxi operation in Casar de Cáceres, they must rely on Cáceres operators. But there is one in Cañaveral, Taxis Serrano.

Tel. +34 639 86 73 36

It’s a married couple, Carmen and César, and I got a quick WhatsApp back saying they can come pick people up. Since they use WhatsApp, communication need not be oral. Even if they don’t speak English, I’m sure someone here on the forum would help people out. The turn-off for the embalse would be the obvious place to ask for a pick-up. But you will need some data to be able to WhatsApp them from the road.
 
Thank you to all for so many helpful suggestions. Like WanderingNotLost, I am currently planning on walking from Casar de Caseres to Canaveral on April 28. We might meet along the way (did you mean, "a few beers over a six pack?) I am beginning to consider Corned Beef's and Camino07's suggestions to take a train or bus from Caceras to Canaveral. This would allow me to avoid the dangerous section of road after Caceras and the long stretch of walking from from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral, as well as giving me a couple of extra days when I could either slow down or spend more time in Merida and/or Zamora, both cities which I should like to experience in a leisurely manner. As this is my second pilgrimage on the VdlP, I don't feel obliged to walk every kilometre: been there, done that. But I think that I shall let this go until the time comes and act according to where my energy is. Wish me well, my friends.
 
Thank you to all for so many helpful suggestions. Like WanderingNotLost, I am currently planning on walking from Casar de Caseres to Canaveral on April 28. We might meet along the way (did you mean, "a few beers over a six pack?) I am beginning to consider Corned Beef's and Camino07's suggestions to take a train or bus from Caceras to Canaveral. This would allow me to avoid the dangerous section of road after Caceras and the long stretch of walking from from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral, as well as giving me a couple of extra days when I could either slow down or spend more time in Merida and/or Zamora, both cities which I should like to experience in a leisurely manner. As this is my second pilgrimage on the VdlP, I don't feel obliged to walk every kilometre: been there, done that. But I think that I shall let this go until the time comes and act according to where my energy is. Wish me well, my friends.
Albertagirl,
No I meant "short of a 6-pack". I guess it's an American type of expression indicating one is not "all there". Others: a few eggs short of a dozen. A few bricks short of a pallet.

I'm living proof that sanity is often overrated. I enjoy living life just a little "off". It's much more fun.

Bringing joy to others through laughter is 1 of my 3 daily goals. Learning something new about the natural world around us, and the people we encounter is another. Helping someone without being asked, expecting nor accepting anything in return completes my daily trifecta.

I'm looking forward to walking the Caceras to Carnaveral part even more after reading the posts of others who have left their footprints over the years. The now well documented walk around to avoid the roadside portion as you leave Caceras is straightforward. (when you come to the circle leaving town, cross the road toward your left and follow the dirt trail bearing left. Based on Google maps satellite view, the path appears to loop up and around a few hills, eventually angling back toward the main road where there is a path off the roadway to follow. (see Peregrina2000 post above with link)
I'll leave early, enjoy the sun rise, walking at a comfortable pace. As this will be my 9th Camino, never sleeping outside, I never worry about finding somewhere to rest my head. While initial ideas don't always go as "planned", I have faith the Camino will always provide what is truly needed.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I'll leave early, enjoy the sun rise, walking at a comfortable pace. As this will be my 9th Camino, never sleeping outside, I never worry about finding somewhere to rest my head. While initial ideas don't always go as "planned", I have faith the Camino will always provide what is truly needed.

Have any of your previous Caminos been on the VdlP, the Mozarabe or another of the less-walked southern routes? It really is a very different experience from the Frances, the Portugues or the other northern Caminos. Occasional very long stages with no services. The Casar de Caseres to Cañaveral stage can be extremely challenging in hot weather - especially if the albergue at the reservoir is closed. No drinking water available for close on 30km. Planning ahead is vital. Not so long since a young and fit man died from heat-related causes a few km short of Cañaveral. I strongly advise you to err on the side of caution in deciding how much water you carry.
 
Have any of your previous Caminos been on the VdlP, the Mozarabe or another of the less-walked southern routes? It really is a very different experience from the Frances, the Portugues or the other northern Caminos. Occasional very long stages with no services. The Casar de Caseres to Cañaveral stage can be extremely challenging in hot weather - especially if the albergue at the reservoir is closed. No drinking water available for close on 30km. Planning ahead is vital. Not so long since a young and fit man died from heat-related causes a few km short of Cañaveral. I strongly advise you to err on the side of caution in deciding how much water you carry.
Thank you for your concern. I had read about the pilgrim who passed away on the VDLP.

My planning has taken all the things you mentioned into account. I'll be carry at least 3 liters of water everyday and appropriate food, with enough to share if someone I encounter is in need; while also factoring in time and day of week when intermediate facilities might not be open when passing through.

While this will be my first time on the Seville to Salamanca portion of the VDLP (I have walked from Salamanca VDLP/Sanabres).

Thanks to all the fantastic information shared on this forum, I'm being extra careful with my planning. While +35km days are normal for me, this journey I'll be staging days very carefully to avoid back to back long days. Especially when elevation changes and heat factors must be managed. As an example, for the portion we are discussing, my plan is to walk Valdesalor to Casar de Caceres (23K) then next day to Canaveral (33K)

I have planned 46 days to walk from Seville to Muxia and I'm not so set in my ways that I won't use other means of transportation when appropriate.

Simply as a side note. In 2017 while walking the CP from Lisbon with a Vietnam Vet I brought with me, we experienced +40C temps for more than a week. Yes, at one point we were only approx. 30km from the tragic fires. I always err on the side of caution. Even more so after that experience. I greatly appreciate your thoughtful reminder.
 
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I have been considering where to officially begin my camino on the VdlP this year by getting my first stamp in a credencial. As I shall be on a walking pilgrimage and shall begin to walk in Merida, the logical place would be somewhere in Merida. As this is, for me, a pilgrimage, I feel that I should begin it formally in a church, as I have begun all my previous caminos. But I have not found any mention of a church in Kelly's recent guide to the VdlP. Any suggestions?
 
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I have been considering where to officially begin my camino on the VdlP this year by getting my first stamp in a credencial. As I shall be on a walking pilgrimage and shall begin to walk in Merida, the logical place would be somewhere in Merida. As this is, for me, a pilgrimage, I feel that I should begin it formally in a church, as I have begun all my previous caminos. But I have not found any mention of a church in Kelly's recent guide to the VdlP. Any suggestions?
There is a concathedral in Mérida (I’ve never really figured out what that word means, but Cáceres has one too — it must be some ranking that puts it slightly “below” a cathedral), which is from the 17th C I believe. For me a church with an environment more conducive to reflection and contemplation is the smaller Santa Eulalia (dedicated to an early Christian martyr from Mérida), and an early Christian crypt below. There is also a fairly elaborate Roman fountain right outside the church. This church is not as centrally located as the concatedral, though, so that may be a negative.
 
There is a concathedral in Mérida (I’ve never really figured out what that word means, but Cáceres has one too — it must be some ranking that puts it slightly “below” a cathedral),
Wikipedia explains the idea of a co-cathedral. Often when a diocese has two major centres of similar size or influence and marks this by having an episcopal base in both towns. In this case the other cathedral is in Badajoz.
 
Thanks to both of you. I have found the Concatedral de Santa Maria la Mayor right next to the camino route, close to Hostal Senero, where I am considering staying, and fairly close to the pilgrim albergue along the river bank where I stayed on my previous walk on the VdlP. The Estacion de Autobuses where I am planniing to arrive in Merida (bus ticket from Seville already purchased) is also close, but on the opposite side of the river. I am hoping that this church, as having some responsibilities of a cathedral, will have sufficient opening hours for me to be able to enter, and a stamp for my credencial. The Basilica of Santa Eulalia is next to the train station, and appears to be a more interesting structure, especially the crypt. I hope to visit it as well during my time in Merida.
 
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My time in Spain has been very busy since I arrived in Madrid on March 29th and travelled to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to begin my stint as a hospitalera. The initial challenge was to open the albergue for the season. I was alone as a hospitalera for the first time and knew nothing about the setting: for example, how to turn on the hot water and how to contact those who could help me to acquire necessities (toilet paper). Soon most things were under control, with one exception. The new manager of Hosvol was involved in providing one meal a day for hospiraleros and would not accept my refusing this meal. As a vegetarian, I could not eat it. And much of the time the pilgrims did not want it either. However, I enjoyed the setting and the people: all very friendly.
I left there for my walk on the VdlP soon after my replacement arrived, and am now dealing with whole new set of challenges.
 
My time in Spain has been very busy since I arrived in Madrid on March 29th and travelled to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to begin my stint as a hospitalera. The initial challenge was to open the albergue for the season. I was alone as a hospitalera for the first time and knew nothing about the setting: for example, how to turn on the hot water and how to contact those who could help me to acquire necessities (toilet paper). Soon most things were under control, with one exception. The new manager of Hosvol was involved in providing one meal a day for hospiraleros and would not accept my refusing this meal. As a vegetarian, I could not eat it. And much of the time the pilgrims did not want it either. However, I enjoyed the setting and the people: all very friendly.
I left there for my walk on the VdlP soon after my replacement arrived, and am now dealing with whole new set of challenges.
Ah Calzadilla de los Hermanillos! Is the little tienda still open? I was in El Burgo Ranero but my fellow hospi was sent to Calzadilla when no one showed up there for their 2 week stint leaving me in July to run the El Burgo Ranero by myself (full house within an hour every day).

I went over to visit her. It was very quiet there even in July. Can imagine that you didn't have many pilgrims. Too bad about the meal. That would have been a problem for me too.

Enjoy the Plata, I hear it's quite busy now. That was certainly not the case for me when I did it in July and February.
 
Yes, the Tienda is open, although the hours are somewhat unpredictable. It was good to have it available as a food source for my ongoing vegetarian diet. I found the people in the village to be generally friendly and helpful.
When I left there I stayed a night in El Burgo Ranero and met the new Canadian hospitalero, who was just arriving for the second half of April.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Now that I am well into the VdlP I am looking forward to sharing some of the unique experiences of this camino and listening for suggestions from others who have walked it.
I began by spending a couple of days in Sevilla. My highlight for that time was several hours spent in the Muséo de Bellas Artes, exploring centuries of Christian art. I went on by bus to Merida, where I explored the crypt of Santa Eulalia church, in addition to revisiting a quantity of Roman monuments, first seen on a previous camino.
Then I started to walk: Merida to Aljucen, yesterday on to Alcuescar, where I stayed with about 30 other pilgrims in the dormitory of Los Esclavas de Maria y los Pobres. The dormitory was packed with loudly snoring men and much less comfortable than on my previous visit there. I found time to walk out to visit the basilica of Santa Lucia del Trampal late in the day yesterday, but saw very little of it. The grounds were closed, but there were a couple of places where I could see the main building reasonably well over the hedges. I paid for this glimpse with an extensive collection of ugly, itchy bite marks contributed by some hungry local insects. It was worth it.
 

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Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Hope you're having a great time! We had fun in Nájera, didn't we?

We finished our Vía de la Plata in Astorga this month...
 
I started my day today at 5 am in Valdesalor, was out walking by 6 in the cool morning air, and eating breakfast at 9 in Caceres. I have decided to take the train from here to Canaveral early on Friday morning, and meanwhile to explore Caceres, and to rest (in a hotel). After several nights of being serenaded by snorers in albergues, I need a rest, and I look forward to seeing the city.
My travel to Canaveral is booked. Given the heat of midday, I have chosen to avoid walking the 33 kms from Casar de Caceres to Canaveral by taking the train from here to there. I remain pleased to know that I walked every kilometre of the VdlP on a previous camino. I'm going out now to see the city, and to get some lunch. It seems a long time since breakfast.
 
I enjoyed my time in Caceres, but decided to cancel my train ticket to Canaveral when I discovered that the train station there was some kilometres from the town. An early morning bus took me to Canaveral, where I spent a day and a night, before getting very lost the next day on the way to Rio Lobos. I had planned on spending that night in Galisteo, got lost in the hills, and eventually found my way to Rio Lobos. That town was in the throes of a fiesta, with not a single bed available. I took a taxi to Galisteo, where I spent the night in a crowded albergue: my first experience of a top bunk. The next day I walked on to Carcaboso, where I spent the night in the Albergue de Peregrinos Señora Elena. I arrived in good time and temporarily had a room to myself. Two other women were eventually fitted in to a room designed for a maximum of two. Both spoke only Italian. The final arrival distinguished herself by keeping me awake most of the night with a truly outstanding performance of snoring and related verbal athleticism. I have never heard worse from a male snorer. I walked on the next day to Oliva de Plasencia, where I treated myself to a comfortable private room. Now I am settled the following day in a private room in Hostal Asturias, on the main highway. Tomorrow I plan to walk the new Via Verde which passes across the road from the hotel, through Hervas, and straight on to Banos de Monte Mayor. I am getting accustomed to adventures, and to the kind local people who rescue me when needed.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
So it didn't go quite as I had planned. This could be my motto for this my latest camino. I did walk the new Via Verde, but I missed my planned walk through Hervas. I was delayed, only to find myself descending a hill into Aldeanueva del Camino without the time to go on to Hervas, then to Banos de Monte Mayor, skipping Aldeanueva. Maybe another time. I arrived in Banos the next day and it proved to be a very satisfying stay. Many people helped me with plans when the tourist office information service proved to have been transferred to the local library. I spent a wonderful night in Hotel Rural Martin, and cash appeared mysteriously to cover most of the cost of my room and meals. I had been struggling with poor functioning of my cell phone. Finally I decided to get it fixed, and booked a bus ride to Salamanca, where needed service was available. Just before I left, I asked for help from the receptionist at my hotel. She managed it on her own. So I had a bus ticket to Salamanca and a hotel reservation that I chose to use. This gave me a little extra time to enjoy the city. I set off early this morning to begin my onward journey to Zamora in very pleasant cooler weather. I remember a similar cooling off from a previous departure from Salamanca. And on again tomorrow walking my last couple of days to Zamora, a central focus of this year's pilgrimage. Wish me well.
 
So it didn't go quite as I had planned. This could be my motto for this my latest camino. I did walk the new Via Verde, but I missed my planned walk through Hervas. I was delayed, only to find myself descending a hill into Aldeanueva del Camino without the time to go on to Hervas, then to Banos de Monte Mayor, skipping Aldeanueva. Maybe another time. I arrived in Banos the next day and it proved to be a very satisfying stay. Many people helped me with plans when the tourist office information service proved to have been transferred to the local library. I spent a wonderful night in Hotel Rural Martin, and cash appeared mysteriously to cover most of the cost of my room and meals. I had been struggling with poor functioning of my cell phone. Finally I decided to get it fixed, and booked a bus ride to Salamanca, where needed service was available. Just before I left, I asked for help from the receptionist at my hotel. She managed it on her own. So I had a bus ticket to Salamanca and a hotel reservation that I chose to use. This gave me a little extra time to enjoy the city. I set off early this morning to begin my onward journey to Zamora in very pleasant cooler weather. I remember a similar cooling off from a previous departure from Salamanca. And on again tomorrow walking my last couple of days to Zamora, a central focus of this year's pilgrimage. Wish me well.
I have been in Zamora for two days now, and have already chosen three different accommodations, beginning with my third stay in the camino albergue, my current stay in the wonderfully unique Hosteria Real de Zamora, and finally, my move tomorrow into the Parador for a two-day stay. After a slightly better than usual overnight in the Zamora Albergue de Peregrinos, I was tired enough to move on to a private room in the Hosteria Real. It has turned out to be an amazing place: a real historical treasure with comforts not easily found. A deep bath with endless hot water was a wonder. Let me describe the setting: I went through reception, picked up my pack, and stepped through a door into a walkway around an indoor garden. Halfway around the garden was the door to the mikveh. This is a several feet deep bath, open to the sky and with natural stone walls lining it. Apparently, several centuries ago a Jewish family provided this necessary structure for feminine hygiene to the women of the household. The only private door out of the mikveh leads into my tiny bedroom: through double doors which can both be locked on the way in. I wonder what their original purpose was. I am not entirely enclosed, however. Windows out of my tiny bedroom and attached bathroom lead out into the walled garden, where the sun shines in from two stories up. Tomorrow, I shall describe how I experience my time in the Parador.
I have actually spent most of today walking the city and meditating in the churches. For me, it is in the heart of my spiritual places in Spain. What do you think?
 
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So here I am relaxing in my own private bedroom in the Parador in Zamora. At least half a dozen tiny rooms like my last could be fitted into this one enormous bedroom. The only significant advantage of the faculties here over those in my tiny room yesterday is that there are two comfortable chairs instead of yesterday's none. In both cases, the staff is friendly and helpful. However, the Parador has an excellent kitchen, while only breakfast was served in my previous accommodation. Right now, I feel like I could sleep (and eat) for a week here and wake up too fat to walk my camino. I think I'll skip the evening meal and wait for my next treat at breakfast (prepaid). Lacking @HeidiL to do the best part of our cooking, as at Nájera, I shall just have to make do with what is provided at the Parador (and eat less).
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I walked out this morning from the Parador to the farthest edge of northern Zamora, where the name has been struck through to show that the city boundary has been reached. As soon as I have stuffed in tomorrow' s breakfast, I shall walk there again, and onward to Montamarta and beyond, to Santiago. It is time.
 
This will be a short report, as I am looking forward to a long night's sleep in a private room in Hotel La Ruta, just before Mombuey. I have decided, after half a dozen nights in crowded albergues with energetic snorers/coughers that a night alone in a hotel is just what I need to get rested. I enjoyed a short walk here from the wonderful Albergue Rehoboth outside Villar de Farfon (drop in for tea and to meet some wonderful people, or make a booking for a night there). But I am ready to rest and this is a great place to do so. I'm going on tomorrow to Asturianos: back to community living in the Sports Centre.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
It is late afternoon in the Galician town of Laza. After a night in a noisy albergue in Campobecerros and a vigorous walk through the hills to Laza, I was glad to find a solitary room in Casa Blanco Conde on the outskirts of Laza, to stagger around the town looking for tomorrow's walking route, and finally to collapse in my room for a long afternoon nap. It is hot out, and I want to be prepared to start early tomorrow for the twelve km climb to Albergueria, and maybe another 7.5 kms onward to Vilar de Barrio. Now that I am in Galicia, I can see the end of this camino approaching: Ourense in a couple of days, the final walk onward to Santiago to follow, and my flight homeward on June 13th. With the heat and the climbs, there may be a lot of effort to expend between now and then. I am getting stronger and enjoying pilgrim friendships. Thanks to all those whose fellowship I have experienced along the way.
 
Much has changed since yesterday's post. I woke this morning to a complete change in the weather: from hot and humid to cold and raining. Today's walk over the hills from Laza and into Galicia left me, and most of my gear, soaking wet. At the highest point of the climb, I was pelted with ice and miserable. However, since the rain has stopped and I have eaten in Vilar de Barrio, my mood has improved. I am trying to reconcile myself to whatever happens in the next couple of days, until I settle down for a few days of relaxation in Ourense. That is what I am hoping for. Wish me well.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I am moving on, as my time in Spain is limited. After a couple of days of rest in Ourense at Hotel Irixo, interspersed with some really dramatic rainfall, I set off this morning early for the strenuous uphill climb to the pilgrim albergue at Cea. The place is quite full and sure to be more so by days' end. My next door (bunk) neighbour is a really talented snorer and I feel sure to have a neighbour in my upper bunk by bedtime this evening. If the thunderstorm stops, I shall try to find my way into a downtown restaurant (Sol y Luna?) to vary my diet. I don't know where I am going next. Probably the Refugio at the monastery at Oseira. I need to be in San Martín Pinario to take up my three days reservation on June 9th. That appears to be ten days from now, but when I get there depends on where I stop along the way, and I am not clear about this. I seem to have too many choices. If I end up being early for my reservation at San Martín Pinario, I may just rent a room outside Santiago for a day or two: a little time to relax and think before the hectic journey home.
 
I am moving on from the albergue at Cea, as my time in Spain is limited. After a couple of days of rest in Ourense at Hotel Irixo, interspersed with some really dramatic rainfall, I set off this morning early for the strenuous uphill climb to the pilgrim albergue at Cea. The place is quite full and sure to be more so by days' end. My next door neighbour is a really talented snorer and I feel sure to have a neighbour in my upper bunk by bedtime this evening. If the thunderstorm stops, I shall try to find my way into a downtown restaurant to vary my diet. I have decided to walk on to the new albergue in the monastery at Oseira tomorrow.
Note: the new albergue at Oseira has space for forty pilgrims and the beds are filling fast. The albergue at Castro Dothan is closed, and the large number of pilgrims here now are scrambling to find beds for tomorrow. I need a bed for tomorrow night. I am trying to find a room at Boris Estacion
 
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I have once again run short of time for posting, but shall try to do a quick update. The new albergue at Oseira seems to have shifted the mood for pilgrim visitors from a stark monastic dormitory to a new and very busy pilgrim hostel. I saw a monk once in my time there, pilgrims were shown the monastery in large groups by female guides. I found the place more busy than spiritual, and was glad to be able to move on. The closed albergue at Castro Dothon necessitated a longer day. After various further adventures, including my customary visit to the bridge of Taboada, and one night in the Albergue Turistico at Silleda, I eventually linked up with a small group which spent last night in the private albergue at Leiras, then I walked on alone today to Ponte Ulla. As usual on a Sunday, Albergue O Cruceiro is officially closed for the cook's day off. But I was given keys and placed in a room by one of the cleaners. Others have arrived since and settled in. In the morning, I shall speak to the cook-manager and see if I can negotiate for a couple more days here. My booking at San Martín Pinario does not begin until June 9th and I have no other plans for Santiago. Something will happen to bring my last days in Spain together. I'll let you know when I do.
 
I have now been in Santiago for a couple of days. After being nearly three months in Spain, I find myself eager to head for home. My arrangements have become complicated by the swarms of pilgrims also heading for home and looking to use the same facilities. I arrived in Santiago a day ahead of schedule and was obliged to spend one nightmare night in the Seminario Menor: little of it in a dormitory bed and most just hiding from the snorers and hoping for dawn. It now costs nineteen euros a night for this experience.
I have had some challenges planning my travel to Madrid and the journey home. After I manage to get home and reflect on this pilgrimage I shall be better able to understand how it fits into previous walking journeys, and whether there may be more to follow.
 
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I have been home for one week and have not yet sorted out the chaos in my home and in my life. This last walk was hard, the journey home was hard, and I am asking myself, 'What do I do now?" I am considering a walk in the mountains, but the challenge of carrying the gear and the food for such a journey discourages me. Not to mention the heavy snow which just fell in the mountains today, and the temperature in Calgary: a little above freezing, but with relentless cold rain. Maybe I shall just start sorting my gear and packing. If I want to go when I am done, I shall be prepared. If not, at least my home will be a little less chaotic to live in.
 
This last walk was hard, the journey home was hard
Sorry to hear that life feels a bit chaotic, and I hope that the weather improves soon! Were the difficulties in your recent Camino due to Camino issues, or were they more internal?

I've been home almost a week and haven't finished unpacking yet!
 
Sorry to hear that life feels a bit chaotic, and I hope that the weather improves soon! Were the difficulties in your recent Camino due to Camino issues, or were they more internal?

I've been home almost a week and haven't finished unpacking yet!
I think that I prefer less busy camino walking, and that doesn't seem to have been a possibility this year, even on the VdlP. I suppose that everyone needs to catch up, after the pandemic.
 
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Hi girl, nice to be home safe. Did you find three month away from home walking doable, or was it too long.

Happy future trails. G
 
Goldie
It was closer to two months on camino, because I volunteered as a hospitalera before I set off walking my camino. And I enjoyed my time as a hospitalera very much.
 

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