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"river route" into Burgos safety

Dutchwalk53

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF 2015 with son #1, CF 2016 alone, CF 2017 with son #2 and husband , CF Sept 2018 with daughter
Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.
 
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Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.
I walked that route into Burgos in July 2013. I remember a lot of people on the route once I was in the Burgos city limits, so to speak. I believe it's a public park that runs along the river for most of the route there and most of the people I saw were not pilgrims, but just regular people out in the park enjoying the day. I remember reaching a point where I crossed a bridge over the river and it wasn't far from there to the cathedral.
 
I walked that route into Burgos in July 2013. I remember a lot of people on the route once I was in the Burgos city limits, so to speak. I believe it's a public park that runs along the river for most of the route there and most of the people I saw were not pilgrims, but just regular people out in the park enjoying the day. I remember reaching a point where I crossed a bridge over the river and it wasn't far from there to the cathedral.
Thanks Mark! :)
 
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Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.
The river route is popular because it avoids the long drag through the suburbs, so you will most likely find other pilgrims walking that way.

About 13kms before Burgos you walk through the village of Orbaneja, then shortly after that you cross a bridge over a main road. Just after the bridge there is a yellow arrow pointing straight ahead to Villafria and Burgos, but ignore it and take the track off to the left in front of the modern housing. This takes you round the back of Burgos airport to Castanares where you need to go straight across the road, find the bridge over the river then turn right and then keep the river on your right all the way. Eventually you will see the Cathedral on the opposite side of the river and you then take the bridge to the big archway which goes straight into the Cathedral Square.
 
This probably doesn't take us to Calle Vitoria, does it? I was in Burgos in 2011 for World Youth Day, and we walked part of the Camino Frances starting from the church on Calle Vitoria (Iglesia Santa Maria de Real y Antigua de Gamonal). It was considered our home Parish and we stayed with host families in the Parish. It is highly important to me to walk by there and see my old home, and maybe see some friends, but I hear that the walk into Burgos is not the best part of the Camino. Thanks!
 
This probably doesn't take us to Calle Vitoria, does it? I was in Burgos in 2011 for World Youth Day, and we walked part of the Camino Frances starting from the church on Calle Vitoria (Iglesia Santa Maria de Real y Antigua de Gamonal). It was considered our home Parish and we stayed with host families in the Parish. It is highly important to me to walk by there and see my old home, and maybe see some friends, but I hear that the walk into Burgos is not the best part of the Camino. Thanks!
If you want to walk to the Cathedral on Calle Vitoria, you can take an earlier bridge to the city side of the river, cross the Avenida de Arlanzon and pick up the Calle Vitoria.
 
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I walked that route into Burgos in July 2013. I remember a lot of people on the route once I was in the Burgos city limits, so to speak. I believe it's a public park that runs along the river for most of the route there and most of the people I saw were not pilgrims, but just regular people out in the park enjoying the day. I remember reaching a point where I crossed a bridge over the river and it wasn't far from there to the cathedral.
I remember that Bridge from last year. As long as the route is not totally isolated or a "hangout for creepy people" ha ha I'll be ok. Just double checking with folks who actually walked this route, there I'm not familiar.......and ps.....no you're not crazy wanting to "maybe walk again in 2016" :) . I decided that I'm trying to go each year...why not ? It's great fun and a great way to stay (somewhat) in shape when getting slightly older !
 
I remember that Bridge from last year. As long as the route is not totally isolated or a "hangout for creepy people" ha ha I'll be ok. Just double checking with folks who actually walked this route, there I'm not familiar.......and ps.....no you're not crazy wanting to "maybe walk again in 2016" :) . I decided that I'm trying to go each year...why not ? It's great fun and a great way to stay (somewhat) in shape when getting slightly older !
I don't remember everything about that alternate route, but like I said I do remember the path along the river went through what looked like a park or recreational area.
Here is a past thread on it that may have more information:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/alternate-route-into-burgos.8046/
 
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I don't remember everything about that alternate route, but like I said I do remember the path along the river went through what looked like a park or recreational area.
Here is a past thread on it that may have more information:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/alternate-route-into-burgos.8046/
Thanks so much Mark. I just read this thread, and quoting another poster (confirming kind of what you wrote earlier ) :
"it is a delightful walk. A good wide path shared with mothers and their babies, people walking their dogs, and the elderly out socializing and just enjoying their day. And the approach to the city center is inspiring. I still remember my first glimpse of the cathedral spires." I now feel at ease to take this route.
 
Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.
please do some research. Due to lack of planning several of us ended up taking the route that goes to the right of the airport. Hated it as it seemed like we walked through the somewhat industrial area of the city forever and ever. I would much rather have been on the route that followed the river.
 
Two years ago I did just fine with the alternative, River Route, until this part:
This takes you round the back of Burgos airport to Castanares where you need to go straight across the road, find the bridge over the river then turn right and then keep the river on your right all the way.
I went straight across the road, found the bridge (over a stream), but then got deadended in garden plots back alleys and couldn't find the river at all...so I returned to the main street and walked on the 'airport side' for a while until I could see a traffic light where I knew I could cross again and probably find the river more easily. Just before the traffic light there is a car wash (!) and a bar attached (The Car Wash Bar). I needed a break and I couldn't pass it up, then after some refreshment, I crossed at the traffic light and fairly easily found the river and kept it on my left. It is a wonderful, quiet path with families and runners and sunbathers. Very safe. Last summer I knew exactly where to go.
 
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The river route is popular because it avoids the long drag through the suburbs, so you will most likely find other pilgrims walking that way. About 13kms before Burgos you walk through the village of Orbaneja, then shortly after that you cross a bridge over a main road. Just after the bridge there is a yellow arrow pointing straight ahead to Villafria and Burgos, but ignore it and take the track off to the left in front of the modern housing. Eventually you will see the Cathedral on the opposite side of the river and you then take the bridge to the big archway which goes straight into the Cathedral Square.
Hola - just to clarify Mike's instructions: from Orbaneja the Camino goes over the A-1 (Major Autoroad), about 100 metres past the bridge you will see a military or police barracks on the left hand side of the road. Cross over the road here and the Camino arrows should now take you south-west around the Burgos airport; after crossing the N120 minor highway you will see the river and the bridge across it.
[Note: If you are still on the road when you come to the railway line you have gone too far and will have to back track (from memory it was about 500-750 metres, maybe a kilometre - but by then I was too tired to retrace my steps.)]
If you are walking, the river Camino does appear to be far more enjoyable - the road through the industrial area was ok for those on bikes!! Cheers
 
I won't lie, I was slightly uneasy on this route in October 2014. Mostly this was because for a while I wasn't totally sure I was on the right path; I did not see any pilgrims for some time and was nervous. Once you veer off on this route it is a WHILE before you reach the "nice park with the wide path" and many people- so just keep that in mind! Having done it now (and walked the original icky way on my first Camino in 2012) this is definitely the only way I would go into Burgos! So peaceful and lovely.
 
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I add my endorsement to those above for this route. It is far more attractive than the road one. One little point though. As you turn left into the road that leads into and skirting the housing development you immediately take a track to the left. This then curves to the right below the slight rise that the development is on. You soon reach the airport with the fence on your right. You cannot go wrong then into Castanares. After crossing the main road (the road opposite is slightly offset to the right) and walking straight on you pass a children's playground on your left. After the factory you pass the football ground "El Molinar" on your right. In a couple of hundred yards you reach the bridge and carry straight on until the Autoroute. The path goes right immediately alongside this and eventually swings under it. Almost immediately you are at the park and going right you will soon find yourself amongst many locals exercising. BTW I have found from experience that the walk around the airport can get very flooded and boot sucking muddy if you are unlucky to traverse it in a bad spring like I did in May 2014!
 
Thanks everybody. I will 100% take the river route but will research all you suggested and I looked on Google Earth to get a good idea of how the road looks/goes after I pass Orbanejo.
 
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Hi,
I walked the river route in September 15. From the road junction where you leave the main Camino it's clearly marked saying "RIO".
However, you enter that "parque fluvial" not from its busiest part. Even as a man I felt a bit uneasy, probably because I was the only pilgrim for some time, there were thick shrubs and several pedestrian underpasses.
The closer you get to Burgos' center, the more people are in the park. So, the first 2 or 3 km are "the problem".
Early in the morning and late in the afternoon I'd not take this route - but of course that's just my feelings about it. I remember reading this advice somewhere (where?).
It is a beautiful walk, though. :)

cu
Volker
 
The river route is popular because it avoids the long drag through the suburbs, so you will most likely find other pilgrims walking that way.

About 13kms before Burgos you walk through the village of Orbaneja, then shortly after that you cross a bridge over a main road. Just after the bridge there is a yellow arrow pointing straight ahead to Villafria and Burgos, but ignore it and take the track off to the left in front of the modern housing. This takes you round the back of Burgos airport to Castanares where you need to go straight across the road, find the bridge over the river then turn right and then keep the river on your right all the way. Eventually you will see the Cathedral on the opposite side of the river and you then take the bridge to the big archway which goes straight into the Cathedral Square.

Mike - as a former commercial pilot I must confess - I LOVE specific directions! Thank you so much! I was struggling with this part of the plan just last night! Thanks to DutchWalk for starting this thread!
 
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I got there right at the end of may last year. The area around the airport there wasn't many people (and we saw way more people go the other route than the river route) but once you cross the major road after the airport it starts turning into a park and there I recall us running into large packs of joggers... followed by probably a half-dozen dog walkers, then you get into a long promenade where you are never really out of vision of others. Long walk though, but nice. Mid-day there I wouldn't be concerned at all.
 
Just a note, the confusing part, where people seemed to get lost, was further back BEFORE the airport. You come up over an overpass and straight is a road, to slight left is a road that goes into a little village complex, and your left is a path off the road. The markings were confusing but we seemed to chose correctly the left off the road route which took us through a field to a fence that went left around the outskirts of the airport.

Hope that sounds familiar to everyone else. Then we went through a small industrial type area, crossed a major street (had coffee there) then went into the woods behind it.

On that step-by-step guide it is #2 where people seemed to get confused.
 
I have found from experience that the walk around the airport can get very flooded and boot sucking muddy if you are unlucky to traverse it in a bad spring like I did in May 2014!
Yes I found a lot of sticky mud for a kilometer or so, in November.

I was slightly uneasy on this route in October 2014. Mostly this was because for a while I wasn't totally sure I was on the right path; I did not see any pilgrims for some time and was nervous. Once you veer off on this route it is a WHILE before you reach the "nice park with the wide path" and many people- so just keep that in mind!
I would agree with this. Last time I walked this route, I noted that the increased traffic (and therefore, comfort) began at the point where the first pedestrian bridge came over to join the park. At the time I decided that next time I might follow the road from Castanares for a while until the next opportunity to cross over to the green route. It would still be worthwhile since it is a long walk in to Burgos.
 
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Just a note, the confusing part, where people seemed to get lost, was further back BEFORE the airport. You come up over an overpass and straight is a road, to slight left is a road that goes into a little village complex, and your left is a path off the road. The markings were confusing but we seemed to chose correctly the left off the road route which took us through a field to a fence that went left around the outskirts of the airport.
Right. You cross the highway (AP-1, E-5) using an overpass and the fork is about 300 m further on (at the crosshairs on the interactive map linked to below.) That is where you see the housing complex. Take the left there toward the field. If you take the right (staying on the main road) you will go to Villafria by skirting the airport on the Ctra. Provincial.

http://www.mappingsupport.com/p/gmap4.php?ll=42.362254,-3.596349&z=16&t=h

By-the-way, Peg and I continued along the main road (Brierley has it marked as the gray path) for a half-hour or so and stayed 2 nights at the Hotel Buenos Aires (also on Brierley's map) in Villafria. The bus into Burgos stops right at their patio. In the afternoon we did errands and the next day explored Burgos and the day after that we walked back to the fork to continue by going the way through the field to Castanares and taking the river way. That saved a lot of pavement pounding through unappealing sections of town. Ended up at Hotel Puerta Romeros right across from the gate where the kid hands back the stolen pack in the movie, The Way. That was about 20 km.
 
I remember that in 2011 I wanted to take this "river option". I went straight into that former army barracks compound and found myself deadended by the airport fence. Therefore I retraced and came into Burgos through this awful industrial suburb. In one of the heaviest storms I've ever seen :)
As I understand it now and also from previous threads and map it's quite easy to find your way by the river if you go left left when coming to former army barracks (photo posted above).

But am still questioning myself why this option isn't marked??? I mean there surely is some Camino Confraternity Chapter in Burgos and I would assume that they know their surroundings really well. And if they are pilgrims then they should know what's the easiest, prettiest, nicest way... Still a riddle to me.
 
But am still questioning myself why this option isn't marked?
In fact, it is marked (not often though), but when you arrive at any crossroad point, there is an arrow. If the link below works, see the official sign on the way:
Google Street View Photo
Many people can't find the starting point because it is notoriously being hidden from the view, and my guess is that the bar owners from Villafría just don't like the stream of pilgrims (and their wallets) to skip their village on the way to Burgos, so they make sure the pilgrims walk the "proper" route, the industrial one.
I heard this numerous times from many pilgrims: 'I wanted to take the river option to Burgos, but I just couldn't find where to turn left so I gave up'

This is where you should turn left: Google Street View Photo
 
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But am still questioning myself why this option isn't marked???
It was marked (May 2015) but it wasn't marked very well. Whoever marked it knew the way and I suppose he thought it would do the job. That is why I linked to the satellite image. You see that picture now and even in a few months you will know that spot as well as whoever marked it.

That said, Peg and I didn't see the first time but we were going to Villafria anyway. On the way back we knew that we missed seeing the fork the first time since we didn't see any other place the fork could have been so we kept an eye out for it.

Just a little ways after you take that fork there is another optional route to Castanares to the left. We took that but I recommend skipping it. It is easy to follow through the fields but once you approach the built-up areas you get to wondering if you are going the right way.
 
In fact, it is marked (not often though), but when you arrive at any crossroad point, there is an arrow. If the link below works, see the official sign on the way:
Google Street View Photo
Many people can't find the starting point because it is notoriously being hidden from the view, and my guess is that the bar owners from Villafría just don't like the stream of pilgrims (and their wallets) to skip their village on the way to Burgos, so they make sure the pilgrims walk the "proper" route, the industrial one.
I heard this numerous times from many pilgrims: 'I wanted to take the river option to Burgos, but I just couldn't find where to turn left so I gave up'

This is where you should turn left: Google Street View Photo
Hi Arthur,

The Google Street View link is excellent. I just clicked through the route all the way to Castanares and it shows it perfectly. You can also see many pilgrims walking the route too.

Thanks for posting it.

Mike
 
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We took the river route last Sept., and found it to be such a nice walk that the next day we took a taxi back and re-walked it.

We didn't get lost, but it was perhaps the only part of the Camino where we were a little unsure if we were on the right path.
 
Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.

I have just arrived in Burgos via the river route and only in the first kilometre did I feel just a little isolated but even then I did not reconsider walking that way. The rest of the way was almost crowded with people out walking on a Saturday afternoon. Maybe on weekdays it might be less busy. But I think if you try to time your walk for between 1 and 4 in the afternoon, you should be fine. And then there is always the comfort of walking with other pilgrims (I am sure there will be many to team up with).
Buen camino.
Peter
 
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Thank you Peter. I will walk that route on a Friday. I think I will indeed just hook up with some fellow Pilgrims (which I'm sure there will be plenty in June) just before that portion of the route. Enjoy the remainder of you Camino :)
 
There is a nice bar on the main road when you get to Casanares. It is on the left on the same side as you arrive. Last watering hole before Burgos.
Thanks ! It will (sadly) be my last day at this years Camino , so I will try my best to enjoy it to the fullest. Hopefully I will have time to do the entire Camino again next year :)
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
The River Route is far and away the best way to get into Burgos. The arrows change almost daily (work has placed me in Castañares on consecutive days and I have actually seen them get painted, then repainted, the painted again) by nobody-knows-who.

If in doubt about the current state of affairs/safety, ask at the new bar in Castañares (on your left as you approach the busy road), the owners are friendly and informative.
 
Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.
I walked Camino Frances last May (third time) along the river into Burgos. Mistake. Take a taxi as soon as you pass the overpass. Best 10e you could invest.
 
I walked Camino Frances last May (third time) along the river into Burgos. Mistake. Take a taxi as soon as you pass the overpass. Best 10e you could invest.
Thank you for your response Eagle. . May I ask the reason why you think it would be a mistake? Thanks so much :)
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi all,
I'm trying to avoid the "regular route" into Burgos there (sadly) Burgos will be the end for this years Camino. So I want to take the what seems to be the more scenic "river route". I read it's not marked but pretty easy to follow.
My question is :Is it pretty busy in June ? I'm a woman walking alone and want to feel safe .
Thanks.
It was not well marked and felt a bit sketchy. I'm 6'4" so a lady alone probably would not feel ok. I used taxi in the past going into Pamplona, Burgos, and out of Leon. I feel that St James is understanding.
 
It was not well marked and felt a bit sketchy. I'm 6'4" so a lady alone probably would not feel ok. I used taxi in the past going into Pamplona, Burgos, and out of Leon. I feel that St James is understanding.
Thanks :) I will seriously consider all and NOT take any risks. I think I will try to wait at the new Bar in Castanares and see if I ( hopefully not an issue in June) will find some other Pilgrims to walk with me . I only have 14 KM to go that day so I have time ! If all goes wrong ...I can still take a Taxi .
 
I found out about this route in 2011 (my second Camino), after the hospitalero in Agés told the Spanish friends I was walking with about it and drew us a map. It wasn't well-marked then and we were glad for the directions! (Especially because it was actually an alternate "back door" route directly out of Agés though I haven't felt comfortable finding it on my own again since then, but it was a cool way to go, and with Camino markers that looked like they'd been there for years -- obviously a path that had often been walked by pilgrims!)

I walked the river route again in 2012 and it was becoming more talked about on here by then. Took some time off from the Camino and then got to walk it again last July, and noticed that the river route was quite well-marked in comparison to the past! Not only that, two locals came up to me, separately, and recommended and pointed out the way to the river route (and made sure I knew how to get there). Nice of them! :)

Editing to add that it should be plenty busy when you walk in June and you shouldn't have any trouble finding someone to walk with along that stretch. I walked it with my friend Mia last year and we felt comfortable walking it as two women, but we'd both walked the Camino before. If it were my first time I might prefer to walk with someone but there are many, many sections I've walked on my own and, using common sense and paying attention to my instincts, I've felt safe. Do what feels best to you! (And you've said you'll do as much already.) One more thing, everyone is individual and we get to decide how we want to make our way along the Camino, but the so-called industrial parts of the Camino have never bothered me (on the way into Burgos and León, where some people take a taxi or bus). I notice beauty everywhere I go and I've always found interesting things to look at and pay attention to. So of course, avoid those parts if you want to (in 2012 I took the bus from Estella to Burgos with a new friend who was injured and needed to skip ahead), but I appreciate the diversity of them! I love the walk into Pamplona, especially the really neat fish fountain and the shell building.
 
Last edited:
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