Magwood
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- See signature line for links to daily posts to blogs from many caminos
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Hi, that was a impressive walk today.
I'll be really interested to read what you say once you leave the Norte.
I know the area very well, but only by car, so I'd love to know how you deal with the lack of infrastucture.
You're going to love places like San Andrés de Teixido!
In the first place, Magwood, I would like to thank you for your marvellous summaries of each stage. I know the area really well, and recognise practically all the places you have passed through.
Praia de Area, just before you drop down to Celorio, is indeeed one of the best beaches you are ever likely to come across in the north of Spain, especially as it is really protected from what can often be a fairly rough Cantábrico.
I have no idea why you would choose to stay the night in Covas (a one street suburb, with lots of empty apartment blocks by the beach and football ground, with not a great deal to offer), when you have the marvellous old walled town of Viveiro on your left before you cross the estuary. Viveiro has everything that you seem to keep on saying that you cannot find, I guarantee.
I have often wondered why the Camiño do Mar cuts inland from the sea after Viveiro/Covas, thus missing out on absolutely fantastic places like O Barqueiro (with a possible detour up to Estaca do Bares) and Espasante. I'll be interested to see which route you take.Hindsight is a wonderful thing. I wish I had your knowledge before making my plan which is mainly based on stage distance. Covas was indeed a most unappealing town and I felt quite uncomfortable there. But to be honest, what I saw walking along the port-side of Viveiro didn't look much better. There is obviously a hidden gem lurking behind an uninteresting facade. I am sure your information will help those to come. Many thanks for your input. I will share my plans with you later and perhaps you can give me some suggestions.
I'm so pleased that you chose to carry on along the coast to O Barqueiro. It's one of my favourite coastal villages on the north coast of Spain: secluded, charming, quaint, peaceful. I've often thought it would be an ideal place to retire or to disappear from the world!
View attachment 26098 O Barqueiro, taken from my private helicopter!
Sorry, but I'm stuck down in beautiful Salamanca (my home town) until I set off on the Invierno in a couple of weeks' time.Can I beg a ride if you are in the area? I am staying just behind where the yellow car is parked. Just back from a great hike out to Estaca do Bares - magic!
Next stop el Mejor Banco del Mundo. I had originally intended to stay at Porto do Espasante, which would make a long following day to Cedeira. Any alternative suggestions?
Beautiful, as ever, Magwood! Thanks for sharing this day after day.
View attachment 26151 One more thought for today: if/when you get to Cedeira, you simply MUST sample the local speciality. It's marrajo, a sort of baby shark. Don't be put off, though, as it is quite delicious and incredibly tender. By far the best establishment to try it (it's ALWAYS on) is in Mesón Muiño Kilowatio, alongside the river.
A tapa of maView attachment 26150 rrajo will come with chips and bread, accompanied by a nice fresh glass of the house Albariño, and will only set you back a few euros. Photo here:
Beautiful, as ever, Magwood! Thanks for sharing this day after day.
I said that there were great sea views from the Hotel Orillamar in Espasante! You seem to have got a good deal there!
I'm so pleased that you managed to get up to San Andrés de Teixido. I've only ever been there by car, and it's a long hard slog up from the coast. Well worth it for the spectacular views, though, although it's only a tiny village.
I second that! I'm sure that day after day we all eagerly await the link to your marvellous blog. Thank you.@Magwood, your blog and photographs are a delight to read. You've created a great resource for anyone thinking of walking this route. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
Thanks, once again. It's a pity you had to walk down the main road for much of the way. This probably meant that you missed out on wonderful beaches around Valdoviño.
Taking all the notes I can!!!!
Taking all the notes I can!!!!
Been reading your blog and now tempted to add this to our walk in the Spring of next year...just booked my two youngest children and I to be in Lisbon on March 17th!!!!!
You are a wealth of information!!!
Thank you!!!!
Have there been improvements to the Ruta Do Mar in the last few years? I will be a Hospitalero in Salamanca in April. After which I am thinking of walking Ribadeo to the start of the English Camino. Thanks! hope you are well.