- Time of past OR future Camino
- Ciudad Real to Medina Del Campo - Sep 2023
I walked the Primitivo from 17th to the 29th of April. Rather than give a blow by blow account which has been done before I though I would add some brief thoughts that might be of use to anyone contemplating doing this Camino. I am in good health but was pretty unfit before starting in Oviedo.
Stages:
Oviedo to San Juan - a long first day with a sharp climb at the end. I left Oviedo late as I went first to the Cathedral which opened at 10 am. Nice countryside but the walk into Grado felt like a mini Zamora in my unfot state.
San Juan to Bodenaya - Another long stage ending in a big ascent which gets steep towards the top. A 2km detour at Cornellana as I went to buy sunblock and missed the turning. I walked in hope for a while before admitting the mistake to myself. Great Donativo Albuergue in Bodenaya which really launched our Camino family.
Bodenaya to Borres - Not the gimme which the Northern Camino guide suggests. I didn't eat anything in the morning as we missed the bar in Tineo and blew up towards the top of the climb. First of many steep descents down to Campiello. Functional municipale in in Borres but excellent and friendly el Barin provided a memorable meal.
Borres to Berducedo - Exhausting but amazing walk over the Hospitales after 7 am breakfast in the bar. The climb was long but manageable with the exception of the brutal ramp which follows the pass . The worst part was the steep downhill after the Palo de Alto. The last part was bit weary but helped on by other pilgrims and the bar at Lago.
Berducedo to Castro - Uneventful morning walk for 14km on the road to the dam as fires blocked the Camino. Early starters missed the warnings from the Albergue owners and were mostly turned back after La Mesa. Lunch at Cafe Centro followed by delightful afternoon walk to Castro. The youth hostel in Castro is peaceful but only provides pre-cooked meals which you have to microwave. Still worth the stay,
Castro to Fonsagrada - Short stage with a big climb to start that seems to go on for ever. Second half mainly alongside the road with a beast of a climb into town if you take the left turn just short of Fonsagrada, Excellent Albergue Cantabrico with pulpo for dinner to celebrate reaching Galicia.
Fonsagrada to Castroverde - Tough stage even with a week in my legs. The climb to A Lastra is a steep one but it gets better from then on. Long break in Cadovo to rehydrate the a sharp uphill followed by a pleasant walk into Castroverde. Definite change in scenery as the mountains end and the wildflowers are out in the meadows. First Galician municipale, which is officious but adequate. Expensive meal in the only restaurant open on the Sunday just before it closed. I swear the steak was still mooing when they first served it. Bar showing the Real Barcelona game kindly opened the kitchen to feed late arrivals.
Castroverde to Lugo - Uneventful morning covering the flattish 20 km to the main city on the Primitivo. Muncipale true to form but the old city is a treat.
Lugo to A Seixa - Many km of road walking in the only day of dull weather with a shocking 30 minutes of light rain. Bar at San Roman friendly but the last few km were a bit of a slog mentally if not physically. Muncipale as expected but seems better than the others and a nice bar.
A Seixa to Rivadiso - Excuse me but I seem to be on the wrong Camino. After the usual solitude of the Primitivo in the morning the road into Melide leads me to my first ever experience of the Frances. One minute there is no one, the next it is like Piccadilly Circus. By Santiago this has produced a degree of gallows humour ("Wo ist ihr Rucksack?" "Das ist kein Urlaub?") Never mind, I don't own the Camino and after adjusting, enjoyed the rest of the stage to the lovely riverside location of the Rivadiso municipale,
Rivadiso to O Pedrozo - Short and uneventful stage with a growing sense of closeness to Santiago. I am no longer bothered by the crowds and we celebrated with a pizza at one of the many outlets of the Che business empire. Some people didn't realise you need to follow the road into O Pedrozo and added a couple of km to the day's stage.
O Pedrozo to Santiago - Nine of us strolled the last stretch into Santiago in a holiday mood. Arrived at the cathedral with conflicting emotions but determined to return again.
Overall it was a fantastic Camino. I was a bit taken aback by the numbers on the Frances but I am of the mind that you can't judge other people's motives abilities or opportunities so it is wrong to want the Camino to yourself.
Here are a few thematic comments:
Difficulty - The weather was stunning throughout creating perfect walking conditions. I still found it very hard in the first week and assuming more normal wetter conditions it would be a huge challenge. At the same time it was often very hot and I would not want to walk in Summer. There was a strong wind crossing the Hospitales which if any worse would have been dangerous. A lot of the climbs anbd descents are off road so I think mud could cause some long stages.
Accommodation - There were roughly ten pilgrims on the same schedule as me and we all found beds in the Alburgues. Numbers jumped at Berducedo with a lot of people comimg up from Pola. I think that there will be pressure on accommodation in the early stages as the season gets busier. I can't think of anywhere I would not stay again.
Scenery - Stunning
Regards
Stages:
Oviedo to San Juan - a long first day with a sharp climb at the end. I left Oviedo late as I went first to the Cathedral which opened at 10 am. Nice countryside but the walk into Grado felt like a mini Zamora in my unfot state.
San Juan to Bodenaya - Another long stage ending in a big ascent which gets steep towards the top. A 2km detour at Cornellana as I went to buy sunblock and missed the turning. I walked in hope for a while before admitting the mistake to myself. Great Donativo Albuergue in Bodenaya which really launched our Camino family.
Bodenaya to Borres - Not the gimme which the Northern Camino guide suggests. I didn't eat anything in the morning as we missed the bar in Tineo and blew up towards the top of the climb. First of many steep descents down to Campiello. Functional municipale in in Borres but excellent and friendly el Barin provided a memorable meal.
Borres to Berducedo - Exhausting but amazing walk over the Hospitales after 7 am breakfast in the bar. The climb was long but manageable with the exception of the brutal ramp which follows the pass . The worst part was the steep downhill after the Palo de Alto. The last part was bit weary but helped on by other pilgrims and the bar at Lago.
Berducedo to Castro - Uneventful morning walk for 14km on the road to the dam as fires blocked the Camino. Early starters missed the warnings from the Albergue owners and were mostly turned back after La Mesa. Lunch at Cafe Centro followed by delightful afternoon walk to Castro. The youth hostel in Castro is peaceful but only provides pre-cooked meals which you have to microwave. Still worth the stay,
Castro to Fonsagrada - Short stage with a big climb to start that seems to go on for ever. Second half mainly alongside the road with a beast of a climb into town if you take the left turn just short of Fonsagrada, Excellent Albergue Cantabrico with pulpo for dinner to celebrate reaching Galicia.
Fonsagrada to Castroverde - Tough stage even with a week in my legs. The climb to A Lastra is a steep one but it gets better from then on. Long break in Cadovo to rehydrate the a sharp uphill followed by a pleasant walk into Castroverde. Definite change in scenery as the mountains end and the wildflowers are out in the meadows. First Galician municipale, which is officious but adequate. Expensive meal in the only restaurant open on the Sunday just before it closed. I swear the steak was still mooing when they first served it. Bar showing the Real Barcelona game kindly opened the kitchen to feed late arrivals.
Castroverde to Lugo - Uneventful morning covering the flattish 20 km to the main city on the Primitivo. Muncipale true to form but the old city is a treat.
Lugo to A Seixa - Many km of road walking in the only day of dull weather with a shocking 30 minutes of light rain. Bar at San Roman friendly but the last few km were a bit of a slog mentally if not physically. Muncipale as expected but seems better than the others and a nice bar.
A Seixa to Rivadiso - Excuse me but I seem to be on the wrong Camino. After the usual solitude of the Primitivo in the morning the road into Melide leads me to my first ever experience of the Frances. One minute there is no one, the next it is like Piccadilly Circus. By Santiago this has produced a degree of gallows humour ("Wo ist ihr Rucksack?" "Das ist kein Urlaub?") Never mind, I don't own the Camino and after adjusting, enjoyed the rest of the stage to the lovely riverside location of the Rivadiso municipale,
Rivadiso to O Pedrozo - Short and uneventful stage with a growing sense of closeness to Santiago. I am no longer bothered by the crowds and we celebrated with a pizza at one of the many outlets of the Che business empire. Some people didn't realise you need to follow the road into O Pedrozo and added a couple of km to the day's stage.
O Pedrozo to Santiago - Nine of us strolled the last stretch into Santiago in a holiday mood. Arrived at the cathedral with conflicting emotions but determined to return again.
Overall it was a fantastic Camino. I was a bit taken aback by the numbers on the Frances but I am of the mind that you can't judge other people's motives abilities or opportunities so it is wrong to want the Camino to yourself.
Here are a few thematic comments:
Difficulty - The weather was stunning throughout creating perfect walking conditions. I still found it very hard in the first week and assuming more normal wetter conditions it would be a huge challenge. At the same time it was often very hot and I would not want to walk in Summer. There was a strong wind crossing the Hospitales which if any worse would have been dangerous. A lot of the climbs anbd descents are off road so I think mud could cause some long stages.
Accommodation - There were roughly ten pilgrims on the same schedule as me and we all found beds in the Alburgues. Numbers jumped at Berducedo with a lot of people comimg up from Pola. I think that there will be pressure on accommodation in the early stages as the season gets busier. I can't think of anywhere I would not stay again.
Scenery - Stunning
Regards
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