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OzAnnie's Camino de Madrid -- March 2018

OzAnnie

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Oct/Nov 2022_Mozarabe from Almeria
Thursday 22 March.
Madrid morning very cold even with gloves on.
Blue sky was encouraging and sun warming my face in Puerta Del sol was fitting.
After leisurely start / breakfast and overdose of cafe con leche, I posted gear from Correos in El Corte Inglés (at sol) ahead to Santiago for onward travel.
Next walked to Plaza de Castilla to shorten my day tomorrow. I metro’d back later.
Glad I did that as it was a good test for feet. I managed to acquire a blister on little toe! Not a usual place but I’ve never worn 2 socks before.
I’ll go back to one pair tomorrow.
With sun out midday it was very warm still. !!
There are already pink spring blossoms appearing on some trees .. it will be very pretty soon.

Meeting up with Jill and Ginette at ‘The Hat’ (their Hostal) in 1/2 hr.
I’m staying at Hostal Alonso ( I wouldn’t rave about it but I had a quiet room last night and it was heated all night. Very comfortable. Arriving late though ., I found it a little tricky at 10pm finding it as the cab didn’t drop me close enough. Easy to locate once you know.
Ps cab from city was E30 fixed rate and Hostal Alonso room with double bed is E35 per night for me.
Annie
 
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Hi Annie good luck with your walk, I wish you health and strong legs and few blisters! I am very curious what the walking conditions will be in light of all the rain and snow in the area. Especially between Tres Cantos and Matealpino. I would imagine that little streams would have developed into rivers with a lot of mud and puddles everywhere! And then of course the stretch between Cercedilla and Segovia, with all the snow on the mountain. My wife and I are setting out from Madrid on 4 April and we hope that the weather would have improved by then. Buen Camino, Izak.
 
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Buen Camino Annie!
I look forward to following your walk from Madrid.
I managed to acquire a blister on little toe!
Grf. I commiserate - toes are usual places for me to get blisters. But only if I forget to wrap them up with paper tape and lambswool, or if I do that carelessly. May it heal quickly and may no others arise!!
 
Last night the 3 ladies met at ‘The Hat’
It is a little ripper ! (not that I wasn’t comfortable at Hostal Alonso ). But I’d recommend the hat. Very spacious.
On top there is ample room for sitting , dining, partaking of the odd vino. Waiter service ! We each had dos .(vinos that is, not waiters).
I’m meeting them at plaza de castilla - just beside the metro entrance.
The hat includes breakfast (they ll have theirs ) I will probably have mine at meeting point.
If anyone is thinking of accommodation to start here., book in very early as the price changed a lot on booking dot com over last 2 mths.

Not a lot of places with sellos yesterday. Although I went to the church it wasn’t open and didn’t get back later in the evening. Not to worry, I’ve got my photo.
Annie
 
Buen camino Annie. Wrap up warm walking down from Fuenfria - I was walking through cloud and have never been so cold. Wishing you a wonderful camino.
 
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Day 2


We 3 joined up at 10am plaza de Castilla. Let’s partake 2nd coffee etc
On our way eventually. Doddled off slowly. Excellent signage , looks new. You don’t really need to read guides as arrows are there as needed. Until you want to get into Tres Cantos. We had sun above and cool temps until about 7k before Tres Cantos. (Edit to say - from here it started to rain - then at point (a roundabout-almost passing tres cantos )- Jill made the call to head over the highway - no real signage , follow your nose - once in there I asked first person I saw to point me in direction of V P Jardin.
The last section was odd .

The other two ladies seem to be handling the walk better than me. I was beat.

V P Jardin is very very nice. Great value.

E32.40 for my room. Gorgeous. The other two are sharing a room and paid E16 each .

Dinner at hotel was tops. No menu del dia today but lovely food and wine .
So overall today was a goodie. Company was great and we seem to walk same pace. A leisurely pace.
 
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I'm so sad... I was planning to join you... but work changed my plans.

However, I am following you all and wishing you the very best of caminos
 
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The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I agree with Anniesantiago. This is a wonderful camino. So many good memories.

Looks like the weather is getting better for you. Hope you can walk over the pass at Fonfría. Sleep well, Annie, good walk tomorrow!
 
Lovely to hear from you all.
Re weather , above where I mention until 7k from tres cantos is where we had the rain start. Nothing major at that point. We weren’t try to cross into tres cantos then! It is odd trying to get into the place . I had wondered why some sort of signage couldn’t have been added. I’m glad I wasn’t alone then.
At dinner last night was told how the pass is. Shown pictures. Unless something magical happens it’s doubtful we’ll be walking it. Snow still coming for that area.
I was just woken by the noise of wind banging against window at 1am. It’s really raining outside now. Still ever hopeful.
I hope we can report back about the recommendations you’ve given us.
Re dogs and horses. Can report only passing very cute friendly dogs. It’s a horse area. Saw some magnificent creatures.

Annie
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
until about 7k before Tres Cantos. Jill made the call to head over the highway - no real signage , follow your nose - once in there I asked first person I saw to point me in direction of V P Jardin.
The last section was odd .
We weren’t try to cross into tres cantos then! It is odd trying to get into the place . I had wondered why some sort of signage couldn’t have been added. I’m glad I wasn’t alone then.
While it's still fresh in your mind, could you expand on the oddness? I will be alone! Having looked at googlemaps I was (perhaps naively) thinking you could stick to the camino track until you hit the spot where it turns off to a via pecuria to the left or Ronda de Europa to the right - and just cross there. Then it should be a simple left turn, right turn, left turn to VP Jardin! What am I overlooking?
 
Thanks for keeping us posted, Annie. I am following your posts closely as I walk out of Madrid on May 7th. Buen camino to you and the others!
 
Elizabeth, you need not worry about snow in May.
Currently I’m told the northern side of the pass is hard ice and would be dangerous. Snow is forecast for Cercedilla and Segovia for sat and Sunday but I think things should settle after that.
We would have ‘gone over’ pass on Monday so doubt it will be ok for us.

Rachel @kiwifamily9
It had been raining for 7-8 kilometres at that point, I had very tired legs and didn’t pull out my instructions or try to check the guide ... so going on sight. All arrows were going ahead. I hadn’t even been counting the bridges across the highway.
So if you’re reading your guide when u arrive - no probs. Jill said - I’m making my way up and over at the Ronda. But without a guide it was follow you nose and head into tres cantos. It was the right point - just no signs (that I saw - sounds like you have clear directions. ). You will be fine - you’re a trouper.
Annie
 
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Further to your question @kiwifamily9
Our csj guide was on our phones and safely packed away out of the rain. Jill had recalled at what point we were to get across to tres cantos based on her version of guide. I had downloaded mine only a day before ., so when we checked on arrival my guide read Hotel Fora being the point whereas Jill’s guide had her expecting to see hotel Foxa. (Which of course never showed !)
Just a little thing like a typo and rain. So we may have overshot ., When we crossed over and made our way down we came to the train station , (back side) we walked left then right under the underpass. A supermarket on right. Etc. Then it was at point not far from there we asked and it was left right etc.
as per your note. Also , tres cantos is quite large.
 
While it's still fresh in your mind, could you expand on the oddness? I will be alone! Having looked at googlemaps I was (perhaps naively) thinking you could stick to the camino track until you hit the spot where it turns off to a via pecuria to the left or Ronda de Europa to the right - and just cross there. Then it should be a simple left turn, right turn, left turn to VP Jardin! What am I overlooking?
That's exactly the way.
It was very quick and logical decission for me because turn left on Via Pecuaria couldn't leads to Tres Cantos. If you look from the overpass further north you can't see any highway overpass in close distance. So how else should you come to TC if not turn right and cross the autovia ;)
 
That's exactly the way.
It was very quick and logical decission for me because turn left on Via Pecuaria couldn't leads to Tres Cantos. If you look from the overpass further north you can't see any highway overpass in close distance. So how else should you come to TC if not turn right and cross the autovia ;)

Correct. We actually walked a little further on cycle track but there is no overpass to get you across.
This signboard is on walking path on your left at the point where you move to ‘right’ to make your way across the traffic roundabout to cross the highway to enter Tres Cantos 81D2735B-B48C-43FF-82E1-2F7A9A13A37F.jpeg
 
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Ok day3 tested our resilience. I felt like Mawson in the Antarctic.
Started out ok but we had to wade through 10 freezing cold crossings In the morning. . Ist two we took boots and socks off and dried etc.not knowing there were more to come. quite a lengthy task. Around the corner another one !! As each was getting higher almost to knees and splashing higher we all ended up walking with light shoes and carrying boots. Freezing. Couldn’t feel the toes. Although there were stones to jump across., they were fairly widely spaced and not one of us felt confident of keeping balance with backpack .
Once you come to the cement bridge there were no more to wade thru. . After that sleet and unbelievable headwinds all the way to Colmenar Viejo. Very slow progress. Having lunch we could see was getting worse so called a taxi to take us to Manzanares el Real. E25 between 3 of us. Jill called Ray y Rosa and although they were out, will pick us up at tourist office at 6.30pm. We spent a couple of hrs on tour of the castle here. Only E3 if over 60. Otherwise 5 .
Taking it a day at a time. It really is tough going staying straight in this wind.
Annie
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Oh, Annie, ánimo! This does not sound like fun. I woke up this morning to sleet and snow in the midwestern US, so the weather is crazy everywhere. But at least I don't have to walk in it. I am sure you will have a good time with Ray y Rosa. Tell them lots of people here on the forum are very grateful for all they do, both online and to take care of pilgrims. Hugs from Laurie
 
Thanks for the information on the conditions ahead. I'm setting out tomorrow.
 
Where is the nice clear sky K1? Sleeting here..wet and brrrrrrrr.
Hahaha, I was referring to your photo but obviously we were typing at the same time of your next post about the conditions.

There's actually a diversion to bypass those streams which I took by accident. There was a huge mojon overthrown but also twisted around as I realized later. I turned right uphill and finished walking all the way to CV on the bici path. Not so nice in a heat that I had but in rain and floods it should be much easier ;)
 
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Ok day3 tested our resilience. I felt like Mawson in the Antarctic.
Started out ok but we had to wade through 10 freezing cold crossings In the morning. . Ist two we took boots and socks off and dried etc.not knowing there were more to come. quite a lengthy task. Around the corner another one !! As each was getting higher almost to knees and splashing higher we all ended up walking with light shoes and carrying boots. Freezing. Couldn’t feel the toes. Although there were stones to jump across., they were fairly widely spaced and not one of us felt confident of keeping balance with backpack .
Once you come to the cement bridge there were no more to wade thru. . After that sleet and unbelievable headwinds all the way to Colmenar Viejo. Very slow progress. Having lunch we could see was getting worse so called a taxi to take us to Manzanares el Real. E25 between 3 of us. Jill called Ray y Rosa and although they were out, will pick us up at tourist office at 6.30pm. We spent a couple of hrs on tour of the castle here. Only E3 if over 60. Otherwise 5 .
Taking it a day at a time. It really is tough going staying straight in this wind.
Annie
Thanks for all information! I am starting out from Madrid 4th of April.
 
When we arrived at Manzanares el Real we had plenty of time to visit the castle. Very nice. One way to keep out of cold winds too. It has heaters !
Ray y Rosa picked us up at 6.30pm
It was very cosy. They are both wonderful hosts and dedicated pilgrims. We discussed the many camino routes and they have their own website which includes heaps of info and maps on most of the camino routes. They have almost finished building a separate ‘Albergue’ beside their home in the yard. Should be completed for this camino season. It has 4 places. (2 bunks) and it’s own separate bathroom (1 shower and toilet. ). All brand new.
No more streams to wade across today but did have to jump a few easy ones. There is ‘run off’ from the hills but quite do able today anyway .
Mostly peaceful walk / not the crazy winds of yesterday. We caught up with the other two west Australians from the forum. Mother (Suzette) and daughter.
The walk from Manzanares to Mataelpino was catching the warm sun and was a beautiful walk
Coffee stop there. Onward to Navacerrada- lunch there. We overshot a little as we ignored the arrow saying to pueblo and carried on straight ahead arrow. This was taking us along highway so took next left and walked into Navacerrada- lunch there.
Leaving here - added 1/2 hr heading in wrong direction and turned around. Quite an uphill out of this place. After that we passed quite a few Sunday walkers. It started sleeting a few kilometres short of Cercedilla. We are staying at Hostal Aribel (longinos) name appears on some of the signage. Even the wifi password is ‘longinos’
We decided on separate rooms , as we will be finding more albergues soon. So individual room with bathroom is E35. Or without bath is E25
Or a room for 3 would be E60
No breakfast included in room price, but there is a cafeteria here which opens for breakfast at 8.30am.
Definitely catching transport tomorrow to Segovia. Has been snowing as I’m sitting here(or is it sleet?) very grim looking.
Enjoying it though. It’s very pretty and as long as you’re dressed right (no wading in icy streams or leaning into sleet / your core is warm as you walk.
Annie
 
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When we arrived at Manzanares el Real we had plenty of time to visit the castle. Very nice. One way to keep out of cold winds too. It has heaters !
Ray y Rosa picked us up at 6.30pm
It was very cosy. They are both wonderful hosts and dedicated pilgrims. We discussed the many camino routes and they have their own website which includes heaps of info and maps on most of the camino routes. They have almost finished building a separate ‘Albergue’ beside their home in the yard. Should be completed for this camino season. It has 4 places. (2 bunks) and it’s own separate bathroom (1 shower and toilet. ). All brand new.
No more streams to wade across today but did have to jump a few easy ones. There is ‘run off’ from the hills but quite do able today anyway .
Mostly peaceful walk / not the crazy winds of yesterday. We caught up with the other two west Australians from the forum. Mother (Suzette) and daughter.
The walk from Manzanares to Mataelpino was catching the warm sun and was a beautiful walk
Coffee stop there. Onward to Navacerrada- lunch there. We overshot a little as we ignored the arrow saying to pueblo and carried on straight ahead arrow. This was taking us along highway so took next left and walked into Navacerrada- lunch there.
Leaving here - added 1/2 hr heading in wrong direction and turned around. Quite an uphill out of this place. After that we passed quite a few Sunday walkers. It started sleeting a few kilometres short of Cercedilla. We are staying at Hostal Aribel (longinos) name appears on some of the signage. Even the wifi password is ‘longinos’
We decided on separate rooms , as we will be finding more albergues soon. So individual room with bathroom is E35. Or without bath is E30
Or a room for 3 would be E60
No breakfast included in room price, but there is a cafeteria here which opens for breakfast at 8.30am.
Definitely catching transport tomorrow to Segovia. Has been snowing as I’m sitting here(or is it sleet?) very grim looking.
Enjoying it though. It’s very pretty and as long as you’re dressed right (no wading in icy streams or leaning into sleet / your core is warm as you walk.
Annie
So it is not possible to walk over the mountain??
 
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... They have almost finished building a separate ‘Albergue’ beside their home in the yard. Should be completed for this camino season. It has 4 places. (2 bunks) and it’s own separate bathroom (1 shower and toilet. ). All brand new.
Good news. With obvious rising of CdM pilgrim numbers they will have constant flow in their albergue :)
BTW where are they located regarding to the town center/castle?

...Onward to Navacerrada- lunch there. We overshot a little as we ignored the arrow saying to pueblo and carried on straight ahead arrow. This was taking us along highway so took next left and walked into Navacerrada- lunch there. (...)
Quite an uphill out of this place. ...
I did the same but on purpose because it was after the heavy rain.
Don't mention that uphill from Navacerrada. It's a killer :D

...
Definitely catching transport tomorrow to Segovia. Has been snowing as I’m sitting here(or is it sleet?) very grim looking.
...
Why didn't you go to Segovia today? There are trains through out the day as I saw...


Anyway I wish you better weather from Segovia onward!
 
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You know how people talk about "muscle memory"? My muscles have PTSD from that climb!
But it's a good training for the uphill from Rio Mino at Belesar on Camino de Invierno! You should experience that one... :)
 
Elizabeth, you need not worry about snow in May.
Currently I’m told the northern side of the pass is hard ice and would be dangerous. Snow is forecast for Cercedilla and Segovia for sat and Sunday but I think things should settle after that.
We would have ‘gone over’ pass on Monday so doubt it will be ok for us.

Rachel @kiwifamily9
It had been raining for 7-8 kilometres at that point, I had very tired legs and didn’t pull out my instructions or try to check the guide ... so going on sight. All arrows were going ahead. I hadn’t even been counting the bridges across the highway.
So if you’re reading your guide when u arrive - no probs. Jill said - I’m making my way up and over at the Ronda. But without a guide it was follow you nose and head into tres cantos. It was the right point - just no signs (that I saw - sounds like you have clear directions. ). You will be fine - you’re a trouper.
Annie
Thank you, Annie. I sure hope so. I am training here in Nova Scotia in cold, damp weather and really hoping it will be a bit warmer in May. Both here and in Spain! Look forward to hearing how you fare in the next few days as you navigate your way to Segovia and beyond.
 
Good news. (RayyRosa’ accommodation)
BTW where are they located regarding to the town center/castle?


Don't mention that uphill from Navacerrada. It's a killer :D


Why didn't you go to Segovia today? There are trains through out the day as I saw...
!
We didn’t try for Segovia today as tomorrow will be easy. Will have time to do train , look about and head to albergue at Zamarramala 3k on we think.
These old legs had had enough at that point - ie just get me to my hotel. Quite a long walk thru town to find it. Plus was sleeting.

Re the uphill slog out of Navacerrada- I thought it might only be me. Ray & Rosa forewarned is but also added that although steep, it didn’t go forever. So it was was expected.

Sorry I can’t explain where ray & rosas place is - they picked us up from tourist office and this morning dropped us back to the camino. They have a great web page though. I’m sure directions would be on it. Web is. RayyRosa.com
I think although I haven’t tried it.
Btw it was Rays advice on condition of Fuenfria pass not to try it tomorrow . They have a million camino Credencials between them so I bow to their knowledge.
Annie
 
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Day 3-4


Cercedilla Hostal Aribel (near Renfe station) advised breakfast hrs starting at 8.30am (but was not open), so we trundled off the train station / next train (today) Monday not until 12.30! The one before left at 7am. There were 5 of us. We killed 4 hrs in Cercedilla. Kinky was right. We could have caught train previous night but we’d booked hotel. Although the day was a sunny & glorious spring day - advice was that it was not advisable to cross Fuenfria. Train trip was E3.65 to Segovia and took just over 35 minutes.


Lots of photo ops in Segovia. Lots to see. Late drawn out lunch (Menu Del Dia E10) before we set off up the hill to Zamarramala. Alcazar on way us magnificent with spectacular position. Once at Zamarramala went to the bar for key to albergue. We asked him if there were any tiendas open in the pueblo. He said no there weren’t. So he made a killing selling food and wine to the others because he was closing early and nothing available until 9am. I needed nothing after big lunch myself.
When we left the bar, of course the tienda next door was open and stocked everything! Wine at a quarter of the price. Tienda said he’d be open until 8.30pm.


The albergue here looks to be fairly new. Heaters here so dorm is warm. Hot water for showers. Good kitchen with microwave.


No toilet paper though. The cupboard was locked so handy to have ones own supply ! Or tissues.


Looks like early night.


Btw the door is secure for those inside ., you can get out but no handle on entry .. one needs a key so you need not worry about anyone wandering in unexpected. They need to phone .
 
... Kinky was right. We could have caught train previous night but we’d booked hotel. ...
Of course I was, I checked the train timetable ;)

...Alcazar on way us magnificent with spectacular position. Once at Zamarramala went to the bar for key to albergue. We asked him if there were any tiendas open in the pueblo. He said no there weren’t. So he made a killing selling food and wine to the others because he was closing early and nothing available until 9am. I needed nothing after big lunch myself.
When we left the bar, of course the tienda next door was open and stocked everything! Wine at a quarter of the price. Tienda said he’d be open until 8.30pm.
...
Alcazar is beautiful from the outskirts of Zamarramala in the night. Bring a bottle of wine and enjoy the evening.
Was the owner of the shop a bigger guy? I hope he still owns it.

...The albergue here looks to be fairly new. ...
It was opened in February 2014 if I remember correctly.


Buen Camino ;)
 
Day 3-4


Cercedilla Hostal Aribel (near Renfe station) advised breakfast hrs starting at 8.30am (but was not open), so we trundled off the train station / next train (today) Monday not until 12.30! The one before left at 7am. There were 5 of us. We killed 4 hrs in Cercedilla. Kinky was right. We could have caught train previous night but we’d booked hotel. Although the day was a sunny & glorious spring day - advice was that it was not advisable to cross Fuenfria. Train trip was E3.65 to Segovia and took just over 35 minutes.


Lots of photo ops in Segovia. Lots to see. Late drawn out lunch (Menu Del Dia E10) before we set off up the hill to Zamarramala. Alcazar on way us magnificent with spectacular position. Once at Zamarramala went to the bar for key to albergue. We asked him if there were any tiendas open in the pueblo. He said no there weren’t. So he made a killing selling food and wine to the others because he was closing early and nothing available until 9am. I needed nothing after big lunch myself.
When we left the bar, of course the tienda next door was open and stocked everything! Wine at a quarter of the price. Tienda said he’d be open until 8.30pm.


The albergue here looks to be fairly new. Heaters here so dorm is warm. Hot water for showers. Good kitchen with microwave.


No toilet paper though. The cupboard was locked so handy to have ones own supply ! Or tissues.


Looks like early night.


Btw the door is secure for those inside ., you can get out but no handle on entry .. one needs a key so you need not worry about anyone wandering in unexpected. They need to phone .

Hi Annie ,following with interest as I start on the 7th. Have you seen any other pilgrims apart from your group?
Heather
 
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Hi Annie good luck with your walk, I wish you health and strong legs and few blisters! I am very curious what the walking conditions will be in light of all the rain and snow in the area. Especially between Tres Cantos and Matealpino. I would imagine that little streams would have developed into rivers with a lot of mud and puddles everywhere! And then of course the stretch between Cercedilla and Segovia, with all the snow on the mountain. My wife and I are setting out from Madrid on 4 April and we hope that the weather would have improved by then. Buen Camino, Izak.
Hope to meet you! Im setting out too on 4th April.
 
Oh! That’s three of you 3 days ahead of me. Hope the Camino will provide some evening company for me.
 
Hi Annie ,following with interest as I start on the 7th. Have you seen any other pilgrims apart from your group?
Heather
Hi Heather
Yes we have. The 3 of us are still keeping together.
2 days back we ran into 2 ladies from WA who had started around same time. They were at Zamarramala with us last night but were only walking to Añe today. They aren’t going to Sahagún either - doing a bit of sightseeing too. They will walk a few days and return to Segovia for a few days over Easter. We walk approx 30k from Zamarramala today. We have 4 tonight in the (6 bed) albergue in Santa Maria la real de Nieva .
A young Ozzie girl (working as teacher in Germany) had time for a short camino so has jumped a few stages and walked a few days & is on her way too.
My feet are just about over and out. See how I go tonight.
Surprising that there is so little wifi available on this stretch.
Ps @KinkyOne Yes I agree ., you are very reliable with information you give.

The weather today was superb. It’s magic walking conditions. Snow looks to be well behind us now. I think anyone coming now on camino madrid should find it ok.

Annie.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
@OzAnnie - thank you so much for the updates. We hope to leave Madrid on April 5. We'll be taking it slow, and enjoying the beautiful terrain. The forecast still has a bit more moisture ahead, but we are hoping the mountain pass will be walkable by the time we get there. Buen Camino, and we will continue to watch for your updates. We are really interested in the food shops in your next few days. Those little towns can be mysterious when looking for supplies for the next day. Thanks again.
 
@OzAnnie - thank you so much for the updates. We hope to leave Madrid on April 5. We'll be taking it slow, and enjoying the beautiful terrain. The forecast still has a bit more moisture ahead, but we are hoping the mountain pass will be walkable by the time we get there. Buen Camino, and we will continue to watch for your updates. We are really interested in the food shops in your next few days. Those little towns can be mysterious when looking for supplies for the next day. Thanks again.
There are approx.40 villages/towns on CdM and I only remember few of them without tienda: Valsain (detour after Fuenfria Pass), Los Huertos (reports have been posted that there is a shop), Ane, Pinilla Ambroz, Villeguillo (but there's a bar/restaurant), Wamba (only bakery and restaurant as I remember), Castromonte (butchery but obviously also a tienda by this year reports), Tamariz de Campos, Fontihoyuelo and Arrenilas de de Valderaduey.
 
Hi Heather
Yes we have. The 3 of us are still keeping together.
2 days back we ran into 2 ladies from WA who had started around same time. They were at Zamarramala with us last night but were only walking to Añe today. They aren’t going to Sahagún either - doing a bit of sightseeing too. They will walk a few days and return to Segovia for a few days over Easter. We walk approx 30k from Zamarramala today. We have 4 tonight in the (6 bed) albergue in Santa Maria la real de Nieva .
A young Ozzie girl (working as teacher in Germany) had time for a short camino so has jumped a few stages and walked a few days & is on her way too.
My feet are just about over and out. See how I go tonight.
Surprising that there is so little wifi available on this stretch.
Ps @KinkyOne Yes I agree ., you are very reliable with information you give.

The weather today was superb. It’s magic walking conditions. Snow looks to be well behind us now. I think anyone coming now on camino madrid should find it ok.

Annie.
Thank you Annie, its great reading your updates. can't wait to get started.
 
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@OzAnnie - thank you so much for the updates. We hope to leave Madrid on April 5. We'll be taking it slow, and enjoying the beautiful terrain. The forecast still has a bit more moisture ahead, but we are hoping the mountain pass will be walkable by the time we get there. Buen Camino, and we will continue to watch for your updates. We are really interested in the food shops in your next few days. Those little towns can be mysterious when looking for supplies for the next day. Thanks again.
Hope to meet up with you two somewhere on the track. So many Aussies !.
 
The weather today was superb. It’s magic walking conditions.
After that blustery start, it's great to know you're having better weather now, Annie.
My feet are just about over and out. See how I go tonight.
I hope they recover in the night! Thinking of you, with many buen camino wishes!
 
There are approx.40 villages/towns on CdM and I only remember few of them without tienda: Valsain (detour after Fuenfria Pass), Los Huertos (reports have been posted that there is a shop), Ane, Pinilla Ambroz, Villeguillo (but there's a bar/restaurant), Wamba (only bakery and restaurant as I remember), Castromonte (butchery but obviously also a tienda by this year reports), Tamariz de Campos, Fontihoyuelo and Arrenilas de de Valderaduey.
Castromonte is a combined butchers & shop , regards Tony
 
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Day 5 & 6


Zamarramala to Santa Maria la real de Nieva.


Couldn’t have asked for better walking conditions. Found coffee & Tortilla at Valseca about 9am. Nothing open in Los Huertos. Had snack lunch at Añe.(stuff we carried ) Wouldn’t recommend planning to stop here as there is really nothing. Quiet. No tiedas nor cafe. Our intention is to walk to Santa Maria la real de Nieva. . Great walking but gentle slope uphill for a bit of the way. One of those places you can see for miles off and takes a while to reach. First port of call for Jill & I was Bar el vergin. Una cervesa!! My feet have painful blisters and my legs are really feeling it. Must not be as fit as I thought.

We find Ginette at Albergue with another Ozzie (Jesso). She’s also a forum member. Jessie is a young teacher working in Germany and finding 2 weeks free to walk a camino, decided Camino De Madrid fitted the bill.


So 4 of us in the 6 place Albergue. We went to bar and had a few drinks and tapas for dinner. Nothing else going but it did the trick. Can’t find wifi anywhere.

The Albergue has heaters ., was tiny but cosy, plenty of blankets too.

Left around 8am as the bar el virgin was supposed to be open at 7.30am. Only coffee and cakes available.

I discovered my reading glasses were missing so farewelled the other 3 and contacted Hospitalero so I could locate my lost glasses. Not in Albergue tho . (Ended up finding them end of day accidentally squashed in backpack. Still ok!!!! )

Hospitalero was not phased at coming back to open up for me . Very understanding & friendly.

I pressed on then but walked past the small pueblo of Nieva, about 2k outside Santa Maria L r de Nieva. The other 3 were there wine tasting by invitation & caught up to me later. We walked to Nava de La asuncion and had a wonderful menu del dia.

The meal e10 but wine was not included. E9 for the bottle. Well worth it. Consumed by 3 of us. Postres was a specialty of the area of Segovia!! Mmmmm.

I am hobbling and have decided I will bus the 8? or so kilometres from here to Coca. My blisters are stinging with every foot strike .

The other 3 walked to coca and did not arrive much later then me! as I had over an hr wait for the bus.
Great little Albergue in coca. Only one shower and toilet but ok. 4 separate bedrooms . Doesn’t appear to be heating but has blankets.
A couple of supermercados 3 streets up from Albergue on the right. Supplies for breakfast etc. visited the castle. (Huuuuuuge). No entry fee that we saw.
To restaurant Rincon for drinks and wifi. Next stop was restaurant muralla. We had another vino and tapas. Having menu del dia is working out well. If we find tapas later we’re happy.
Restaurant Muralla doesn’t have the evening dinner (la cena) until 9pm. Wifi also available here .
These 2 restaurant and the Castle are all in view of the bus stop.

I think we’ll need our sleeping bags plus blankets tonight. Cold in the Albergue (old teachers house ). Days are so good at the moment tho.


Annie
 
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Well there are truly camino angels.
My feet are really hurting. The others don’t think I should walk but there are no busses between coca and Alcazarén. Perhaps once the morning comes I’ll rethink walking. I will take the taxi number with me. Blisters , grrrrr. Why me? Walking is such a pleasant thing but spoilt by feeling pain in feet.
Anyway, getting back to my angel. Jessie , the most recent member of our little group has suffered with blisters before and although not her forté to work on blisters of others , she offered to look at my feet , having ‘been there ‘ herself. I took the Compeed off (very carefully ). She treated both toes first ., then the heels. One was doable . But the left one she can see it’s a blister on top of another blister. I’ll let them breathe tonight and finish cover in the morning. Just having someone who cared and had similar experience was such a positive thing.

Meanwhile , elsewhere in the Albergue whilst this ‘surgery’ was happening - Ginette was attempting to cook boiled eggs in the microwave .. there are no cook tops in this kitchen. We heard an almighty boom. Disaster with the eggs. She has cleaned up the explosion etc. poor ginette. She was trying to have eggs available for all of us tomorrow.

Quite a day !! Lol.

Annie
 
Oh @OzAnnie I feel your pain. I've suffered with blister pain and it's so horrible. I am sending healing thoughts and I hope that your walk will be pain free from here on.

Buen Camino to you all
 
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Blisters on toes...arrrrggggghhhh. May they heal quickly, Annie!
What a day. Blisters, exploding eggs...
So may today be less eventful - just another huo-hum day on the camino. :cool:
I'm so enjoying your posts. Thank you!
 
Well there are truly camino angels.
My feet are really hurting. The others don’t think I should walk but there are no busses between coca and Alcazarén. Perhaps once the morning comes I’ll rethink walking. I will take the taxi number with me. Blisters , grrrrr. Why me? Walking is such a pleasant thing but spoilt by feeling pain in feet.
Anyway, getting back to my angel. Jessie , the most recent member of our little group has suffered with blisters before and although not her forté to work on blisters of others , she offered to look at my feet , having ‘been there ‘ herself. I took the Compeed off (very carefully ). She treated both toes first ., then the heels. One was doable . But the left one she can see it’s a blister on top of another blister. I’ll let them breathe tonight and finish cover in the morning. Just having someone who cared and had similar experience was such a positive thing.

Meanwhile , elsewhere in the Albergue whilst this ‘surgery’ was happening - Ginette was attempting to cook boiled eggs in the microwave .. there are no cook tops in this kitchen. We heard an almighty boom. Disaster with the eggs. She has cleaned up the explosion etc. poor ginette. She was trying to have eggs available for all of us tomorrow.

Quite a day !! Lol.

Annie
Might not help you but I've had many blisters. I don't use Compeed except on hot spots or grazes. After popping blister I apply Betadine ointment,dry gauze and tape thoroughly. This feels comfortable to walk on,for me.
 
Hi, Annie,
ooooh, those blisters. Take care of yourself, hope you can take some time to let them heal. I am really enjoying your posts, but more than that sending positive thoughts for something that works on those dang blisters. Buen camino, Laurie
 
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Just arrived Alcazarén 3.30pm Ist stop Bar Real for drink.. this is where we pick up key also. They also have good wifi.
The other two took the route to the right from the intersection with the road today. @Magwood took this way too (I noticed later when I looked at tracks )...but we’d already headed straight across the road. It is marked with arrows but they are more faded. We opted for this way as it was noted by JW to be less sandy. However i think it’s longer as it does a long sweep around before entering Alcazarén across the river. Not many arrows then either , but they are there. The other 2 peregrinaa arrived at Bar el real half hour before us. We all left Coca about 9am. On way , Villeguillo cafe was open after 7k. Coffee great and E1.10. This could be a good stop if you didn’t want to stay in coca. It appears to have a modern Albergue.. the one at coca was good but no cooking top or kettle. Only microwave. I bought milk last night and there was coffee and sugar there. We’d all bought stuff for breakfast before we were on way today.
I had thought I’d be taxi ing today but decided to push on as Jessie work had improved my blisters. They are still there tho but thought I’d try. We need a shorter day soon I think. My Fitbit reads 27.3k to this bar but the fit bits are renowned for overreading.
@camino07 thankyou for you input on blisters. All advice seriously accepted.
@VNwalking And @LesBrass Thankyou for your support and comfort re my pain.
Young Jessie @Jesso has passed on some useful tricks too. I hope one day to help by passing it on .
I must admit I’m not sure I have the ‘stuff’ to have slogged on alone. (The Salvador was short and therefore not a lot of days out there alone if you don’t meet others). It has been a great comfort on this route, having other pilgrims to dine with and chat to.
Rachel (@kiwifamily9 ) I admire your get up and go, expecting to fit in extra walks (hikes) along the way.
We did see heaps of people at Cercedilla preparing to head to hiking trails. I think it’s school holidays. )
Also at Manzanares el Real there is a lot of hiking.
@peregrina2000 we are watching weather at the bar right now. They are having beach weather down where you’re starting in April
Last night in Albergue in coca - we had a lot on to sleep in... Very cold . Hospitalera is a sweet lady. Only Spanish. I had to tell Ginette that she thought Ginette was going to 9pm mass with her. (Conmigo). Ginette said::: Ooooh no. Gracias...

We seem to be missing the rain for the present anyway.
Cannot give idea on weather after us as today at times we had a very chill wind and then overhot ..
I hope by now people coming behind us can tackle Fuenfria pass. Weather has improved a lot ..

Annie
 
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Hola, Annie,

It seems like you'll have another day of some rain but after that it will clear up:
http://www.caminodesantiagotiempo.com/caminomadrid/index.htm

Villeguillo albergue is indeed modern at least the kitchen is. It's on the edge of a village and with plenty of outside space in front of it. The bar serves very good food although you just tested coffee :)

Cautious about them blisters. Keep your feet dry after walking. Better to feel a bit cold then have them wet. My sister's friend ignored it on CF and ended in Santiago with blood poisoned because of blisters going septic. Maybe make a short stage to Valdestillas and stay in voluntarios staffed albergue?

Wish you all Buen and rain free Camino!
 
Hola, Annie,

It seems like you'll have another day of some rain but after that it will clear up:
http://www.caminodesantiagotiempo.com/caminomadrid/index.htm

Villeguillo albergue is indeed modern at least the kitchen is. It's on the edge of a village and with plenty of outside space in front of it. The bar serves very good food although you just tested coffee :)

Cautious about them blisters. Keep your feet dry after walking. Better to feel a bit cold then have them wet. My sister's friend ignored it on CF and ended in Santiago with blood poisoned because of blisters going septic. Maybe make a short stage to Valdestillas and stay in voluntarios staffed albergue?

Wish you all Buen and rain free Camino!
Thankyou Kinky,
We were discussing tonight whether to stop in Valdestillas and investigate a bus up to Valladolid for a look and then to Simancas. Not sure.
As tomorrow is Good Friday and we didn’t think to get to supermercardo in time ., we’ll be scratching for food in the morning. Between us we have a bit / enough to get us to Valdestillas. Ginette is the one who is not eating carbs at all and likes to find meat.
There is a Spanish couple here tonight who recommended the ‘bar jubilados’ for dinner. It was harder to find and very busy. Nice food.

thanks for feedback on blister care, we tried to get to pharmacia earlier this evening , for some antibiotic creme but everything closed earlier with Easter coming. I will watch it. Thankyou.

Annie
 
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@OzAnnie thank you for the updates. We've found the needle and thread the best for blisters, but I know some people don't think it is a good idea, because of infection. We carry a very small alcohol disinfectant with us for the needle and thread. Hopefully they will begin to heal soon. A short stage is a very good idea! Continued wishes for a Buen Camino.
 
Update on river crossing / Rio Eresma. Approx 6k before Valdestillas. At the moment it is too deep, high, wide to cross. We stood looking at it for 5 -10 minutes considering what was plan b., and a little red Coche arrived. Too dangerous even for cars to cross. They offered to drive 3 of us on a detour close by Matapozuelos back to the same spot but safely on the other side. Jill was somewhere behind us but we weren’t sure. The same good fortune was offered her so we all stayed dry. Not sure how long it will be too high though.
 

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More info
Although we’ve had some sun., the 4 of us have been glad to have packed gloves, lightweight puffer vests, buffs to stop the freezing winds.
The albergue in Alcazarén was comfortable to sleep (not cold) - we all slept warm. There was a heater in the room and 6 pereginos (8 bunks available).

The track coming into Alcazarén yesterday has quoted by JW that you can take track A or B.
I mentioned earlier that straight across was longer and poorly marked coming into Alcazarén whereas the other two tell me today that the well marked route to the right was not sandy etc as quoted in JW.
Leaving Alcazarén this morning (Good Friday ) we hit the jackpot. We had been going on advice that nothing would be open early and had a ‘catch can’ before departing. We had to return key to bar el real. & they were OPEN! As was the supermercado.
On arrival in Valdestillas the ist bar was open. We ate midday meal there. I won’t comment on meal as I can’t be positive. There are plenty more bars as you walk uptown.

Tonight opted for Valdestillas and staying in rooms at the bar near station. Mesontaquita. Single room with bath is E25 Jill and I opted single each.
The other 2 ladies did not have an option and are sharing. 2 beds in room total E45. So theirs is E22.50 each. Rooms have bathrooms and are heated. Excellent value.
Has tapas and bar is open until 11.30pm. Breakfast available from 7.30am Friendly owner.

Weather has changed to wet and grim ‘but’ tomorrow is expected to be good. We’ve been pretty lucky so far.
Sad that we’ve just got to be pretty pally with jesso and she is catching a bus back to Madrid via Valladolid cost E21. Departs 9.38am from estacion. Switch buses at Valladolid. Leaves there 11.30 and arrives Madrid 2pm at station close to Atocha

Jessie has a few days to explore Madrid before return to work in Germany.
Buen Camino Jessie .
Annie
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Thankyou Kinky,
... blister care, we tried to get to pharmacia earlier this evening , for some antibiotic creme but everything closed earlier with Easter coming. I will watch it. Thankyou.

@OzAnnie ... just a thought about your blisters... I found Betadine was the best thing for open skin and when I have blisters I give then a good liberal coating all round to keep infection at bay. I do hope your blisters are feeling happier?

(I also used those gel sleeves on toes to ease the rubbing and friction... so I had a layer of betadine/Gauze/tape and the the gel sleeve)

Buen Camino everyone!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
@OzAnnie do you have time to take a day or two off and rest those feet?
Hi Rachel & others who are really giving me such support . These old feet...grumble grumble.
Yes., did a shorter day today. Depending on conditions tomorrow , intend to walk even if only shorter stage. I’m not stressing about ‘getting there’. It looks like rain for a few days next week. If so I will have no hesitation in taking a break or getting a bus along a bit.
I tried @kiwifamily9 blusture treatment procedure today. Dressed it and secured with sports tape - I was able to take my mind off it.
@LesBrass I didn’t bring my Betadine this time but it is good. Meant to bring ‘tea trea oil ‘.
Jessie handed me her spray bottle of antiseptic tonight as she’s heading home.
I have used the tubing u speak of. I use a bit on my little toe but jury is out on my belief in them.

Ps. The rooms we have at Meson ta quita are owned or managed by Jose. He’s on the go but found time to come and laugh with us. Recommend this place. Really warm & friendly.

Good luck to those following.
Annie
 
Hi, Annie,
Thanks for being such a good Camino Reporter! It is so much fun to follow along with you, except for the blister part.

IMO, Valladolid is a great place for a rest day. So if those blisters need a rest, this would be a good place for one. The sculpture museum is wonderful, and it is in a beautiful old convent. Very nice Plaza Mayor. I stayed in a hotel right next to the Iglesia de Santiago.

And Vallodolid must be one of the least touristed cities in Spain.

Buen camino, amiga, Laurie
 

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I am also checking in each day for your reports, Annie. Hope you can get a break to let those blisters heal. Thank you for your fabulous commentary— I am writing notes like crazy in my JW guide to CdM.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Hi Annie
I'm following along as well and you are definitely making me wish I was walking somewhere in Spain!

Your posts are great and I've now put the Madrid Camino on the wish list.

Good luck with those blisters. Not sure if you've had the Vaseline advice yet, but that really worked for me. The only time I got blisters on a Camino was when I didn't use it. Sounds like you've got support - there and here on the forum!
We will miss you at the April Sydney pilgrim meeting!
Buen Camino xx
 
Update on river crossing / Rio Eresma. Approx 6k before Valdestillas. At the moment it is too deep, high, wide to cross. We stood looking at it for 5 -10 minutes considering what was plan b., and a little red Coche arrived. Too dangerous even for cars to cross. They offered to drive 3 of us on a detour close by Matapozuelos back to the same spot but safely on the other side. Jill was somewhere behind us but we weren’t sure. The same good fortune was offered her so we all stayed dry. Not sure how long it will be too high though.

Annie, thanks so much for all the info. It will be interesting to see if the flood has receded in 2 weeks when i'm standing there.
 
Hi Laurie
Great information. I’m sure it will be useful for those making plans. I did not get to Valladolid myself. @Jesso headed there on bus this morning .
Question ——-for any pilgrim on forum who has walked out of Ciguñuela but just before Wamba. JWalker indicates the best path but we find it confusing to read. Is it best to follow the sculpture of the walking pilgrim ??or the sculpture of the cycle pilgrim ?? To avoid the stony descent.

We will be at this point in the morning.
Annie
 
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Thanks @Donovan
Wifi is too weak to report right now. There was nothing difficult in following the sculptures of the walking pilgrims. Sometimes better not to read too much about the next section and just follow the yellow arrows . I will update when wifi about. But very happy in albergue in Castromonte for tonight , Sunday 1/4/18. Great albergue
 
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Hope you had a happy Easter, Annie, and buen camino! And thank you - I'm enjoying vicariously walking the Madrid with all of you.
 
To avoid the stony descent.

So I wonder if this could possibly be the hard walk on the stone filled railbed that I definitely remember in the days after Coca or Alcazarén.

I know Kinky and some of the others who have walked this route never walked on this long bed of stones. Maybe because there were two branches?

So glad to hear you are moving forward, hope your feet are happy. Buen camino, Laurie
 
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So I wonder if this could possibly be the hard walk on the stone filled railbed that I definitely remember in the days after Coca
No - it was nothing. JW’s description confused all of us - As it turned out ., the cycle route looked to go on the road. The walking peregrini sculpture took a left and came down into Wamba via a grassy descent, with some rocks??? Easy Peasy. It may have been drier and more slippery when JW did it - at present, just follow walking pilgrim ... some cyclists followed this way too... I think that’s what JW was trying to indicate. (That some cyclists would choose the walking way for slightly more of a challenge than the road).
Annie

Re feet. Our little forum friend @Jesso helped a lot with my blisters. I still have them but watching carefully. I am not hobbling at present.
 
Did you stay in Ciguena,Annie?
Hi @camino07
Yes , we stayed in the Albergue in Ciguñuela.
I didn’t take photo of the prices board but it was E6 for peregrino. If you wanted heating it was E4 extra. Ginette has arrived first and paid it.
We had been expecting to pay for the kitchen use but didn’t need the kitchen. We found a good bar behind the church, called : La mesón la mielga.

Prior to Ciguñuela we passed through Simancas and enjoyed a ‘gourmet ?’ Lunch. Yummy food in my opinion. On left corner of plaza. .. name was something like. ....El buen Sabor?
Heading out we tried to look through the castle but it was closed for Siesta time. Awesome edifice though.
Some great castles and churches in this route .
The albergue in Ciguñuela was comfortable and very very warm as heating had been paid by Ginette. They would have liked for every pilgrim to pay the E4 for heating , I think. Albergue was too hot actually. The heating we’ve found in albergues is really tops. You can almost get by with just a thermal liner. But there could be albergues we haven’t experienced that have nothing. They keep kitchen locked if you haven’t paid extra.

Next day 1-4-18 in morning to Wamba .,
We all were lucky enough to have a tour of the church and osary at Wamba. Well worth it. Thanks. @Anniesantiago.

Had lunch at Peñaflor de Hornija (ps Rachel , yes there is a climb into this pueblo, as there are a couple of valleys or ravines or ?? And then a steep climb as if you are climbing to a castle town. Leaving is similar. //. I didn’t get the feeling to stop there so we walked extra 10k or so to Castromonte.. we didn’t get food there but we weren’t hungry. There were supplies in the kitchen and it had cooktop, Microwave , so could have made a decent meal. Also used the washing machine (no extra fee). Price for with albergue with all inclusions is E5. We found the bar later in unlikely place signed as ‘lotteries’.
The albergue - key brought down by Luis. Wonderful albergue. Heaters everywhere and on. So our washing was easily dried. Plenty of space. Hot shower. No regrets here, even if town didn’t have food. We’ve found eating a menu del dia keeps you running and if you have a few off things with you or find tapas ., you get enough.
Today walked to Medina de Rioseco. Huge old town. Very interesting. A lengthy dog leg on route. Made for a loooong haul if you have tired legs.
No bars open until Medina. ....
response for Rachel @Kiwi-family
Hostal Castilla - Rate given for individual room E25. rooms have 2 beds. We got them down to E20 for room, but didn’t choose to stay there.
We ate lunch (menu del dia ) there. Nice and good price E9. However there was no wifi there or in rooms (so they said ??) and it was cold and seemed to be unheated and gloomy so we went to check out Hostal Duque de Osuna around the corner. In JW as E20 for single / actual price is E25 single room. (2 beds). Own bathroom , heating , wifi , modern , nice bathroom. So we’ve all taken single rooms here for tonight

Ps weather. Apart from the grim start with freezing streams and crazy wind ., we have hit the jackpot with walking weather. Fresh wind etc bit glorious for walking . Although rain forecast today .. we didn’t see a drop. Being looked after.

Edit: it has rained here since we took rooms. We went out to look through church of Santiago. All doors locked !!! We tried. We have photos of outside at least .
I see there is a possibility of a boat along the canal to Tamariz.
This would be a nice foot rest for 7.7k.
Unfortunately the oficina de turismo is closed. We will probably walk to Tamariz and then take direct route on road to Cuenca de campos, if we can find the arrows.
Annie
 
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New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Thanks @OzAnnie - I’ll add your notes to my spreadsheet.
In case anyone else is thinking about taking the boat - it is a “there and back” trip so it only goes 3 or so km along the canal. I’m not sure if you can get off at the halfway point.
 
Hi Laurie.
Just to confirm for many who don’t understand ‘ánimo!’ Including me. ? Does it mean ‘cheer up ?’ Or. Trying to get my Spanish better.
Generally yes if you translate just "animo" but I believe it's short from "animo tu puedes" which could be translated as "C'mon, you can do it!". And fits on the Camino much better especially while on a steep uphill like the one just before Penaflor de Hornija ;)
 
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Hi @camino07
Yes , we stayed in the Albergue in Ciguñuela.
I didn’t take photo of the prices board but it was E6 for peregrino. If you wanted heating it was E4 extra. Ginette has arrived first and paid it.
We had been expecting to pay for the kitchen use but didn’t need the kitchen. We found a good bar behind the church, called : La mesón la mielga.

Prior to Ciguñuela we passed through Simancas and enjoyed a ‘gourmet ?’ Lunch. Yummy food in my opinion. On left corner of plaza. .. name was something like. ....El buen Sabor?
Heading out we tried to look through the castle but it was closed for Siesta time. Awesome edifice though.
Some great castles and churches in this route .
The albergue in Ciguñuela was comfortable and very very warm as heating had been paid by Ginette. They would have liked for every pilgrim to pay the E4 for heating , I think. Albergue was too hot actually. The heating we’ve found in albergues is really tops. You can almost get by with just a thermal liner. But there could be albergues we haven’t experienced that have nothing. They keep kitchen locked if you haven’t paid extra.

Next day 1-4-18 in morning to Wamba .,
We all were lucky enough to have a tour of the church and osary at Wamba. Well worth it. Thanks. @Anniesantiago.

Had lunch at Peñaflor de Hornija (ps Rachel , yes there is a climb into this pueblo, as there are a couple of valleys or ravines or ?? And then a steep climb as if you are climbing to a castle town. Leaving is similar. //. I didn’t get the feeling to stop there so we walked extra 10k or so to Castromonte.. we didn’t get food there but we weren’t hungry. There were supplies in the kitchen and it had cooktop, Microwave , so could have made a decent meal. Also used the washing machine (no extra fee). Price for with albergue with all inclusions is E5. We found the bar later in unlikely place signed as ‘lotteries’.
The albergue - key brought down by Luis. Wonderful albergue. Heaters everywhere and on. So our washing was easily dried. Plenty of space. Hot shower. No regrets here, even if town didn’t have food. We’ve found eating a menu del dia keeps you running and if you have a few off things with you or find tapas ., you get enough.
Today walked to Medina de Rioseco. Huge old town. Very interesting. A lengthy dog leg on route. Made for a loooong haul if you have tired legs.
No bars open until Medina. ....
response for Rachel @Kiwi-family
Hostal Castilla - Rate given for individual room E25. rooms have 2 beds. We got them down to E20 for room, but didn’t choose to stay there.
We ate lunch (menu del dia ) there. Nice and good price E9. However there was no wifi there or in rooms (so they said ??) and it was cold and seemed to be unheated and gloomy so we went to check out Hostal Duque de Osuna around the corner. In JW as E20 for single / actual price is E25 single room. (2 beds). Own bathroom , heating , wifi , modern , nice bathroom. So we’ve all taken single rooms here for tonight

Ps weather. Apart from the grim start with freezing streams and crazy wind ., we have hit the jackpot with walking weather. Fresh wind etc bit glorious for walking . Although rain forecast today .. we didn’t see a drop. Being looked after.

Edit: it has rained here since we took rooms. We went out to look through church of Santiago. All doors locked !!! We tried. We have photos of outside at least .
I see there is a possibility of a boat along the canal to Tamariz.
This would be a nice foot rest for 7.7k.
Unfortunately the oficina de turismo is closed. We will probably walk to Tamariz and then take direct route on road to Cuenca de campos, if we can find the arrows.
Annie
This is great, thanks Annie. Have added all the info to my CSJ guide book.
I’m leaving Perth tomorrow night. Eeek!
 
This is great, thanks Annie. Have added all the info to my CSJ guide book.
I’m leaving Perth tomorrow night. Eeek!
What I see from last and this year's reports nothing much has changed on CdM since 2014 when I walked it :)
 
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Happy
This is great, thanks Annie. Have added all the info to my CSJ guide book.
I’m leaving Perth tomorrow night. Eeek!
happy for you Heather. Jessie is now in Madrid. Weather there is ‘perfecto !’
I think you’ll get it all ‘just right !’ Enjoy.
Annie
 
No - it was nothing. JW’s description confused all of us - As it turned out ., the cycle route looked to go on the road. The walking peregrini sculpture took a left and came down into Wamba via a grassy descent, with some rocks??? Easy Peasy. It may have been drier and more slippery when JW did it - at present, just follow walking pilgrim ... some cyclists followed this way too... I think that’s what JW was trying to indicate. (That some cyclists would choose the walking way for slightly more of a challenge than the road).
Annie

Re feet. Our little forum friend @Jesso helped a lot with my blisters. I still have them but watching carefully. I am not hobbling at present.

Good to know, Annie. Maybe this means that the couple of kms in a rocky rail bed are no longer on the Camino. I remember it was pretty painful but a few years later Kinky didn’t go on it and it sounds like you didn’t either.

And yes, ánimo is a form of giving encouragement— kind of like hang in there.

Thanks for all the updates. Buen camino, Laurie.
 
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Today wasn’t long in kilometres but it was my hardest day in a long time. My ‘dogs were really barking !’ Not sure everyone understands that expression but it means my feet were feeling it well and truly. The others 2 peregrinas ‘ditto’.
Left Medina de Rioseco around 8.30. Had desayuno at cafe beside Hostal Castilla. The rain forecast hadn’t started yet so the first half of the canal walk was magical. Peaceful and easy and pretty. The rain then started and very windy . If you read @Undermanager thread on his cdmadrid he gives brilliant description, so I won’t go on .
It stopped raining just before tamariz. Nothing open. We walked up steps to what looks like central community building and some gents were sitting there. I asked if they could tell me if there was a baño near. He understood my Spanish and brought out his keys to unlock the community building and allow us access to servicios.
We sat awhile with them and a sad dog and off we went again. Windy to say the least. We took the more direct road route rather than follow the camino Signs. We understood it would shorten the walk by 4ks. But what a slog ! On bitumen. 8k? Felt like 15 to me but it was 8!!! We arrived in Cuenca de campos about 1.30 and straight to a menu del dia. In La Tata restaurant E10. I enjoyed it. We went nearby to cafeteria cañada ...? After lunch and it was closed but opened the door the see what we wanted. Carmina was happy to give us the key to the albergue. She phoned someone ., probably to turn on heat ?? She also did our Credencials etc in her cafe. E7. Normal 6 but 1 extra for heat
Albergue is huge. Can cope with many.
Heating , blankets , kitchen had everything including a filter coffee machine , fridge etc.
it would be fun making a meal here if there were a few of you
Next step- go back to albergue and get off those tired legs and rest.
Back to cafe cañada at 7pm. For time out etc.
very warm and friendly. But quiet.
She said she will be open for us for desayuno at 8am

Annie
 
Good to know, Annie. Maybe this means that the couple of kms in a rocky rail bed are no longer on the Camino. I remember it was pretty painful but a few years later Kinky didn’t go on it and it sounds like you didn’t either.
...
Hi, Laurie,
The only rail bed I remember is after Lost Huertos (soon after the church in the fields) and about halfway to Ane.
But maybe you mean the middle (old) route from Medina? The route along the canal is the one to the right, disused narrow gauge rail bed is the middle one and there's another one to the left. As I remember from 2014 Amigos don't paint arrows on the left and middle route anymore. But maybe something has changed. Anyway if and when I'll walk from Medina again I'll try the rail bed route and report back ;)
 
... I enjoyed it. We went nearby to cafeteria cañada ...? After lunch and it was closed but opened the door the see what we wanted. Carmina was happy to give us the key to the albergue. She phoned someone ., probably to turn on heat ?? She also did our Credencials etc in her cafe. E7. Normal 6 but 1 extra for heat
...
Is this the one at the end of the house with the arches? Did she took a photo of you? I remember she told me this was her tradition and when there were enough photos to fill in the picture frame she would hang it on the outside wall.
Agree, great albergue. And also a small shop in the Ayto. building, slightly to the left from main entrance.

Keep on, ladies!
 
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Hi, Laurie,
The only rail bed I remember is after Lost Huertos (soon after the church in the fields) and about halfway to Ane.
But maybe you mean the middle (old) route from Medina? The route along the canal is the one to the right, disused narrow gauge rail bed is the middle one and there's another one to the left. As I remember from 2014 Amigos don't paint arrows on the left and middle route anymore. But maybe something has changed. Anyway if and when I'll walk from Medina again I'll try the rail bed route and report back ;)
Sorry, K1, I just don't remember exactlyl where it was, but I think it was in the Alcazarén area. Definitely not as far as leaving Medina. When I am back with access to my journals, I will see if I can be more specific. Not a big deal, really, since it doesn't seem to be on the camino anymore!!! But I can tell you it was hard hard hard on the feet.

p.s. Annie, are you going to stop in Villalón? I can't remember the distances, but it may be too close for you now. It's a beautiful albergue and a nice town to boot. Wow, cant believe you are almost done with the Camino de Madrid! Are you walking to Ponferrada or taking the bus/train? Buen caminon to you once again, hugs from Laurie
 
p.s. Annie, are you going to stop in Villalón?

Hi Laurie @peregrina2000
No we won’t stay in Villalón - it’s about 5k from Cuenca. Tomorrow night will be in Santervás approx 21k.
I expect to walk into Sahagún following day and catch train to Ponferrada in afternoon, if things go okay.
@KinkyOne - don’t worry about train bed - that query was only about interpreting Johnny walker paragraph re descent in Wamba (a few k’s) before. And it was not difficult. About 2 minutes walk.
Annie
 
Regarding old train tracks @peregrina2000 and @KinkyOne
Leaving Cuenca de campos - there is an old train track. ! Pic attached / 83F33EBD-922D-43E4-BB7F-81C06825092D.jpeg9911EC48-6F5B-4C78-BB3D-05EAA41BE1FC.jpegE9662B9B-6885-48CD-8796-8E19B4807F80.jpeg83F33EBD-922D-43E4-BB7F-81C06825092D.jpeg9911EC48-6F5B-4C78-BB3D-05EAA41BE1FC.jpegE9662B9B-6885-48CD-8796-8E19B4807F80.jpeg9911EC48-6F5B-4C78-BB3D-05EAA41BE1FC.jpegE9662B9B-6885-48CD-8796-8E19B4807F80.jpegheading to Villalon . . However today it posed the easiest part of our walk. Most of the old train section has been resurfaced with smaller soft gravel. They have also planted hundreds of trees on side for future shade. After Villalon; because of the rain last night, the track was muddy and caking the boots ! It is extremely windy and we’ve battled the wind all the way to Santervás de Campos.
This year I have a ‘sea to summit ‘ tarp poncho !!!!!
It was a pest. Flap flap flap , the studs kept being forced open with the gusting wind. Don’t use this type in winter !! Arrived at the albergue in Santervás at 2pm. Bar is beside albergue which is situated near the big church.
Menu del dia. Mmmmm. Ñam ñam. E11. Wifi in bar. Waiting for them to let us into albergue. It is E6. Wifi isn’t good signal in albergue but working for the other 2 - not on my iPhone tho.

Last night the albergue in Cuenca de campos only charged an extra E1 per person for heating. - but place was huge and heaters ran all night even in halls and kitchen and bathroom ! The place was the size of a hotel. Very fortunate pilgrims! Being a peregrina/o at this time of the year ., albergue accommodation is like private hotel. SO much choice and nobody else around .

@KinkyOne
The house you mentioned in Cuenca with arches ? We did not see it. The ladies in the cafe Cañada were hard workers. La Tata restaurant was opening for desayuno at 10.30am. Too late. Carmine said she’d open at 8am for us but we arrived and all was dark. She eventually opened the door and we returned the albergue key., thanked her for her kindness and explained that all was ok. We could have breakfast at Villalon.
At Villalon. A few places opened. Looks like nice town.
Next 8 k walk was a tiny bit if musty rain but left ponchos on. It wasn’t a hard 8ks Arrived Fontihoyuelo and as expected ., nothing there. We rested for a bit and ate from rations carried.
The final 8ks to Santervás was tough with the wind etc; as above.
Waiting for hot water to get hot now for a shower.
Comfortable with just us 3 at these albergues.

Annie83F33EBD-922D-43E4-BB7F-81C06825092D.jpeg9911EC48-6F5B-4C78-BB3D-05EAA41BE1FC.jpegE9662B9B-6885-48CD-8796-8E19B4807F80.jpeg83F33EBD-922D-43E4-BB7F-81C06825092D.jpeg9911EC48-6F5B-4C78-BB3D-05EAA41BE1FC.jpegE9662B9B-6885-48CD-8796-8E19B4807F80.jpeg
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
No wonder it's lousy wi-fi when you are sending so many same photos :D

I checked my photos and the bar I mentioned is Bar Cañada so you were there. See attached photo.
 

Attachments

  • 0523-Bar Canada (Cuenca de Campos, 05.07.14).jpg
    0523-Bar Canada (Cuenca de Campos, 05.07.14).jpg
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Annie, I just noticed your thread today. Thanks for sharing so much information - this Camino is definitely on my shortlist for the future.

So sorry to hear about your poor feet - I've had bad blisters a few times and they make everything SO much more difficult. Hopefully you'll be able to have a good rest soon - sometimes that's the only cure. Wishing you well with the rest of your walk! Nuala
 
Hi Camino Madrid peregrinos
I decided after yesterday’s walk that I won’t do the last etape from Santervás de campos to Sahagún as legs want a break before I start the Invierno. So I won’t be able to report on the exit from Arenillas de Valderaduey. We were all to go separate directions in Sahagún regardless. So Jill has set off today on foot and no doubt when she get back home will get back on the forum. Now there @jsalt is an organized peregrina. I so much enjoyed the company of the few forum members on camino Madrid.
I caught a drive to Sahagún this morning and have my ticket to Ponferrada for 2pm. E17.
Should be there at 4.15pm.
I’ll have to crank myself up again there to set off.
This last 2 weeks has gone so fast.
@KinkyOne sorry about the double up photos- The post just wasn’t posting. Not sure how to get rid of the double ups once uploaded.
The albergue in Santervás was good. We had it all to ourselves. The heating and hot water didn’t come on at first so I had a cold shower at 6.20pm and then mentioned being ‘frio’ to Emilio (the Hospitalero). He set to contacting whoever the experts were and the other girls enjoyed a lovely hot shower. Bathroom has heating - warm as toast once it’s working. Heating throughout.
Actually on this camino ., I didn’t experience one cold albergue. They leave heating on all night. You end up warmas toast. Blankets here too.
The bar served a lovely menu del dia -

Buen Camino to those following.
Annie

Edit: The drive was sort of taxi and quoted E25 to Sahagún. 2 of us shared the taxi.
The lady (Elena ) actually lives in Ponferrada but is back during vacation in Santervás and was at the bar last night.
 
Last edited:
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No - it was nothing. JW’s description confused all of us - As it turned out ., the cycle route looked to go on the road. The walking peregrini sculpture took a left and came down into Wamba via a grassy descent, with some rocks??? Easy Peasy. It may have been drier and more slippery when JW did it - at present, just follow walking pilgrim ... some cyclists followed this way too... I think that’s what JW was trying to indicate. (That some cyclists would choose the walking way for slightly more of a challenge than the road).
Annie

Re feet. Our little forum friend @Jesso helped a lot with my blisters. I still have them but watching carefully. I am not hobbling at present.
Apologies Annie as I seen this post too late . We took the " stony path " & it is not a description I would give it , very easy . Have a good trip , cheers Tony
 
Hi Camino Madrid peregrinos
I decided after yesterday’s walk that I won’t do the last etape from Santervás de campos to Sahagún as legs want a break before I start the Invierno. So I won’t be able to report on the exit from Arenillas de Valderaduey. We were all to go separate directions in Sahagún regardless. So Jill has set off today on foot and no doubt when she get back home will get back on the forum. Now there @jsalt is an organized peregrina. I so much enjoyed the company of the few forum members on camino Madrid.
I caught a drive to Sahagún this morning and have my ticket to Ponferrada for 2pm. E17.
Should be there at 4.15pm.
I’ll have to crank myself up again there to set off.
This last 2 weeks has gone so fast.
@KinkyOne sorry about the double up photos- The post just wasn’t posting. Not sure how to get rid of the double ups once uploaded.
The albergue in Santervás was good. We had it all to ourselves. The heating and hot water didn’t come on at first so I had a cold shower at 6.20pm and then mentioned being ‘frio’ to Emilio (the Hospitalero). He set to contacting whoever the experts were and the other girls enjoyed a lovely hot shower. Bathroom has heating - warm as toast once it’s working. Heating throughout.
Actually on this camino ., I didn’t experience one cold albergue. They leave heating on all night. You end up warmas toast. Blankets here too.
The bar served a lovely menu del dia -

Buen Camino to those following.
Annie
Annie, thank you for sharing your experience with us. I have so enjoyed reading your posts and they have been very helpful. Enjoy your downtime and Buen Camino on the Invierno.
Elizabeth
 
Regarding old train tracks @peregrina2000 and @KinkyOne
Leaving Cuenca de campos - there is an old train track. ! Pic attached / View attachment 40882View attachment 40883View attachment 40884View attachment 40882View attachment 40883View attachment 40884View attachment 40883View attachment 40884heading to Villalon . . However today it posed the easiest part of our walk. Most of the old train section has been resurfaced with smaller soft gravel. They have also planted hundreds of trees on side for future shade. After Villalon; because of the rain last night, the track was muddy and caking the boots ! It is extremely windy and we’ve battled the wind all the way to Santervás de Campos.
This year I have a ‘sea to summit ‘ tarp poncho !!!!!
It was a pest. Flap flap flap , the studs kept being forced open with the gusting wind. Don’t use this type in winter !! Arrived at the albergue in Santervás at 2pm. Bar is beside albergue which is situated near the big church.
Menu del dia. Mmmmm. Ñam ñam. E11. Wifi in bar. Waiting for them to let us into albergue. It is E6. Wifi isn’t good signal in albergue but working for the other 2 - not on my iPhone tho.

Last night the albergue in Cuenca de campos only charged an extra E1 per person for heating. - but place was huge and heaters ran all night even in halls and kitchen and bathroom ! The place was the size of a hotel. Very fortunate pilgrims! Being a peregrina/o at this time of the year ., albergue accommodation is like private hotel. SO much choice and nobody else around .

@KinkyOne
The house you mentioned in Cuenca with arches ? We did not see it. The ladies in the cafe Cañada were hard workers. La Tata restaurant was opening for desayuno at 10.30am. Too late. Carmine said she’d open at 8am for us but we arrived and all was dark. She eventually opened the door and we returned the albergue key., thanked her for her kindness and explained that all was ok. We could have breakfast at Villalon.
At Villalon. A few places opened. Looks like nice town.
Next 8 k walk was a tiny bit if musty rain but left ponchos on. It wasn’t a hard 8ks Arrived Fontihoyuelo and as expected ., nothing there. We rested for a bit and ate from rations carried.
The final 8ks to Santervás was tough with the wind etc; as above.
Waiting for hot water to get hot now for a shower.
Comfortable with just us 3 at these albergues.

AnnieView attachment 40882View attachment 40883View attachment 40884View attachment 40882View attachment 40883View attachment 40884

Annie:

Love your commentary on the C/M! Regarding the S2S poncho issue, I had the same problem a few years ago and found a good (for me) solution.

On returning home, I hosed off and dried the poncho, inside and out. Then I applied Super Glue to the “male” part of each snap and snapped them shut.

As I did this, I used a wooden spring clothes pin to hold pressure on each closed (forever) snap until the glue cured fully. Fifteen minutes did it.

This did the trick. Now, the snaps do not come apart. I considered alternative, emergency uses for this poncho, but decided the likelihood so nil, that sealing the snaps made sense.

I did contact Sea to Summit. They told me it was a weight to fabric shear strength issue. If they used stronger snaps, the fabric would have to be either reinforced or be heavier. This defeats the purpose of having this very lightweight poncho in the first place.

So, it is what it is. But a small dab of Super Glue on each snap did the trick.

Hope this helps.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Annie:

Love your commentary on the C/M! Regarding the S2S poncho issue, I had the same problem a few years ago and found a good (for me) solution.

On returning home, I hosed off and dried the poncho, inside and out. Then I applied Super Glue to the “male” part of each snap and snapped them shut.

As I did this, I used a wooden spring clothes pin to hold pressure on each closed (forever) snap until the glue cured fully. Fifteen minutes did it.

This did the trick. Now, the snaps do not come apart. I considered alternative, emergency uses for this poncho, but decided the likelihood so nil, that sealing the snaps made sense.

I did contact Sea to Summit. They told me it was a weight to fabric shear strength issue. If they used stronger snaps, the fabric would have to be either reinforced or be heavier. This defeats the purpose of having this very lightweight poncho in the first place.

So, it is what it is. But a small dab of Super Glue on each snap did the trick.

Hope this helps.
Perfect solution Tom. I had to ‘find’ them (in the gale not easy )so many times and and snap but gave up in the end. I like your solution if you want to continue with S2S poncho. I may go back to Altus. I had one before but you do ‘moisture up ‘ inside more with them. But better than flap flap flap. Drove me crazy and the others kept thinking there was a car coming up behind them due to the noise.

I’m just arrived in my room. Booked same hotel as you. Hotel Los Templarios..

Will continue on Invierno thread tho.
Annie
 
I think you will like the hotel. It is certainly well located. I recall that the staff was very nice. The cafe on the lower level was also acceptable too.
 
Annie, thanks so much for all the many informative posts. No worries about the Arenillas doubts, it's always good to have a few mysteries left unresolved!

And whoooo hoooooo! Looks like its time for a new thread, this one entitled OzAnnie's Camino de Invierno -- April 2018!

Congrats to you, Annie, hope you get a good rest and realy enjoy the Invierno.
 
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