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Marks out of Ten?

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Time of past OR future Camino
yes...
I'm thinking of following so many other recent footsteps next year and walking the Madrid / San Salvador / Primitivo Camino... Starting at the end of September.

I've read a number of threads and blogs and I just wondered... How was it for you? A few blogs I read were sometimes shall we say a little unenthusiastic... I'm walking the first three weeks with my husband so we don't mind it not being busy... But how does it compare to other walks for beauty, variety, history?

Thanks in advance :)
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I really enjoyed this trio of caminos as you probably already know. The Madrid section provided an abundance of beautiful scenery, relatively little road walking, and I particularly enjoyed the architecture. Go for it!
 
I did these three caminos in 2013, this page is too small how enthousias I was about this triple caminos. :p It was very very beautiful for me and I loved the variety. Before I thought that the camino the Madrid would be without variety, but it amazed me every day!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
I'm with @Magwood and @Thomas1962 . I did Primitivo first a few years ago. It was not so busy then. Loved it. Planned last year to do Madrid and Salvador and for family reasons could only do Madrid which was fantastic, if you don't mind being alone. (I look for that). Excellent waymarking and great pilgrim accommodation. I'll catch up with Salvador soon I hope. I'm nearing Bari on way from Canterbury to Brindisi right now.:cool:
 
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Add my praise to the chorus. I walked this route starting years ago in early May and it is a great blend of things. Madrid to Sahagún is almost totally off road, since it makes no pretense of following any historical pilgrimage route. But it follows old livestock routes and other paths that date way back, some say the walk up to the pass at Fonfría before Segovia is Roman Road, though others dispute that. The pilgrim facilities are excellent. There are some very nice castles, in Manzanares and Coca. The towns of Medina del Rioseco and Villalón de Campos have pretty town centers. And of course a visit to Segovia! The aqueduct at night is one of Spain’s most beautiful sights. If I were to walk it again and if I had the time I would take the detour over to Valsaín and La Granja. The “mini Versailles” Bourbon palace at La Granja is well worth a visit. And there is a nice parador there for a splurge if you are so inclined. I have fond memories of my kids running crazily through a great maze made of tall bushes, and the inside of the palace gives you all that over the top gilded glamor without the crowds. A day trip detour to Vallodolid is a nice break and can easily be done on foot if you have time. The national sculpture museum there is excellent and has a riotous plateresque facade.

For me, long stretches of open spaces and huge fields of emerald green grain interspersed with bright red poppies (which admittedly will be brown in September) are great backdrops for why I go to the camino — to walk, to process, to be grateful to be alive. If you found the meseta “boring”, you will likely find some of these days in that same vein. Some of the small towns like Ciguñuela and Castromonte have very few residents, but I never had a problem finding food or getting a bed.

The risk of taking advice from the forum is that we are disproportionately camino addicts, though. But since you are one, too, you are well aware of that fact!
 
@peregrina2000 Laurie, reading that has made me come over all nostalgic! Even though I've just reached the east coast of Italy at Barletta, and so I'm having my own fun!
Yes I diverted to Valladolid and the Realsitio (La Granja), both on foot and both very nice indeed if you have time. Very nice pilgrim-friendly gite at La Granja called de Lys I think. And amazing old bar in the lovely old covered market in the morning too. And happily albergue open again at Rioseco.
On the day to Rioseco I took a lengthy diversion to old Cistercian Monastery at La Santa Spina (in the middle of a field!) It is now an agricultural college but church lovingly restored. I wouldn't have missed it.
 
I too thoroughly enjoyed the Camino Madrid. My only caution would be that finding food during the day was sometimes challenging due to a lack of open bars and markets. It's a good idea, IMO, to carry lunch/snacks with you. Finding food in the evenings was never a problem.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I too thoroughly enjoyed the Camino Madrid. My only caution would be that finding food during the day was sometimes challenging due to a lack of open bars and markets. It's a good idea, IMO, to carry lunch/snacks with you. Finding food in the evenings was never a problem.
Yes. I'd agree with that. BUT, no guarantee you will find a shop! Cereal bars and water can sustain life indefinitely!;) I hate carrying the weight, and on VF in France and right now on VF del Sud there is same problem. I've learned (?!) to only eat once a day. I always have water. Occasionally a filling station appears. But.....easily 70% here in the south are un-manned and the ex-bar stands empty. At one point on VF in France there were 61km between bars!!
 
Thank you one and all... You've put my mind to rest now! All being well we will leave Madrid on the 25th September... but A lot can happen between then and now so I'm not saying for sure... But hopefully!

My next problem will be that we have to lose 3 days between Madrid and Oviedo... my husband won't be walking the Primitivo and has less time off than me... I think I can feel a spreadsheet coming on :) ... I'm confident there will be more questions :cool:
 
Ooh, @LesBrass I love your hybrid idea. I’m hoping to walk the Madrid in May 2019 along with completing the Levante and maybe add in the Invierno.
There is a lot of great info on all these lesser routes now. Like you, I can see a spreadsheet coming on. Pity we aren't able to sync dates. You never know though. I’ll PM you if my dates change to autumn.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I have just completed that trio and loved it. Interestingly, friends and family (some of them) reading my blog thought the wide open plains after Segovia looked boring. I didn’t mind them, but do enjoy hills more - plenty of hills after Leon!!
Are you planning on walking Sahagun to Leon? Taking the train would be an easy way to lose two or three days.
 
@gracethepilgrim ... yes! compare notes if your dates change! I'm pretty fixed to the end of September. And I think I need to be home by 26th October... but well... if your dates change ;) And the Levents is in my sights for 2020... Valencia to Santiago I hope!

@C clearly ... happy planning... I love a good spreadsheet!

@Kiwi-family ... I read your blog and made notes! We've already planned the train from Sahagun to Leon... I think I've manage to lose 3 days, I've got two choices. I have time to mull it over though as we dont have to decide until we're walking... maybe we'll let the weather decide :)
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
You people are causing trouble for me! I had "decided" to walk the Sanabres in 2019, but now cannot decide between these two routes for March or April:
  • Madrid to Sahagun
  • Zamora to Santiago
(I already have spreadsheets and KML files for both.)
Madrid and Sanabres are quite different. While Madrid has just one really hilly day, the Sanabres only has few "flat" days at the beginning and then hills begin. Also Madrid is much more solitary in comparison to Sanabres onto which a lot of VdlP pilgrims turn after Granja de Moreruela.

I love them both for different reasons :)
 
Ooh, @LesBrass I love your hybrid idea. I’m hoping to walk the Madrid in May 2019 along with completing the Levante and maybe add in the Invierno.
There is a lot of great info on all these lesser routes now. Like you, I can see a spreadsheet coming on. Pity we aren't able to sync dates. You never know though. I’ll PM you if my dates change to autumn.

@gracethepilgrim - I can feel a Batman and Robin thing coming on! I am seriously tempted to walk the same path as @LesBrass, but starting beginning May 2019! We need to talk!! ;-)
 
I wish I could walk in May... but it will be a few years before I am able. I am though wondering if 2020 I could maybe squeeze in 2-3 weeks from Seville to Salamanca... I'm dreaming of spring camino! After reading a thread the other day I'm also dreaming of winter camino! I love my job but... I think I love walking just a teeny bit more :eek::):D
 
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@gracethepilgrim - I can feel a Batman and Robin thing coming on! I am seriously tempted to walk the same path as @LesBrass, but starting beginning May 2019! We need to talk!! ;-)

Haha Mel ;), yes we must get in sync. I’m doing the hospitalera course in Sydney in 2019 so if I have issues with my leg I might be able to offer my services. I would be starting from Madrid or Toledo in May 2019. Love some company. BTW, who’s Batman and who’s Robin?
Colleen, 2020 VdlP sounds great. I know how you feel about ‘walking over working’ :)
 
WOW! I didn't know there was such a thing as a hospitalera course. I would have thought you would be an expert already!

I don't think it really matters who is Batman or who is Robin! As long as we wear our underpants on the outside we will be dressed to kill....or walk! Let's stay in touch! I am thinking 1 May from Madrid...
 
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I am looking at possibly doing this triple camino in two stages in 2019: the Madrid in early April and the Salvador-Primitivo in late May-June (I am going to Australia in between). The Madrid sounds like one of the best-kept camino secrets!
 
@jungleboy - I'm following in @Magwood 's footsteps... her blog is great! Also last year a number of camino threads here followed folks on the Madrid... it sounds great and I agree it sounds like it has been a big secret :) I'm walking to Oviedo with my husband and then continuing along the Primitivo alone (although hopefully not totally alone!) We start on the 25th September.
 
I'm thinking of following so many other recent footsteps next year and walking the Madrid / San Salvador / Primitivo Camino... Starting at the end of September.

I've read a number of threads and blogs and I just wondered... How was it for you? A few blogs I read were sometimes shall we say a little unenthusiastic... I'm walking the first three weeks with my husband so we don't mind it not being busy... But how does it compare to other walks for beauty, variety, history?

Thanks in advance :)

LesBrass:

This is a great trifecta selection, imo.

I walked the San Salvador/ Primitivo combo in Spring 2013. I really enjoyed the walk even though I had a very tough snow day (3 and 4 meter drifts) in the passes in the mountains followed by ankle deep mud on the way to Pajares. Accommodation was good with one exception and the views were stunning. The Primitivo is kind of a rural Norte but instead of seascapes you have snow capped mountains to your south. The San Salvador route was sparsely walked back then. I did not meet another Pilgrim.

The Madrid is similar, imo, to the Frances with some larger cities (Madrid, Segovia) a tough one day mountain climb (Cercedilla to Segovia). This is a 31km day. I had the extra benefit of a half a meter of snow for 7km's at the top. That said, I was rewarded with a stunning Roman aqueduct in Segovia (My Avatar). Followed by pine forest and finishes with Meseta into Sahagun.

This is a great choice but I do not believe doable in 3 weeks (27-34 days).

Madrid and San Salvador were sparsely traveled.

You will not be alone on the Primitivo.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
Last edited:
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Hi Joe - I am indeed looking forward to this walk. My husband only has three weeks... I've got five so I'll be on my own on the Primitivo... but hopefully not alone for long :D
 
I've done it... I've booked my hotel in Madrid for the 24th September... I start walking on the 25th September! woohoo! thanks for all the feedback!
I'll be walking in Portugal this coming spring, BUT the next time I head back to Spain, a similar "triple header" is at the top of my list! I've already walked the Primitivo, so I'll finish up the rest of the Norte I'd detoured off of. Congratulations, what a great Christmas gift to yourself!
 
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Madrid/Frances/Invierno/Sanabres is also very nice Camino combo.
Just saying ;)
I was thinking Madrid/Frances/Salvador/Norte to be able to complete the rest of the Norte I'd missed by turning onto the Primitiho last time. If you prefer your option do you have a particular reason?
 
I was thinking Madrid/Frances/Salvador/Norte to be able to complete the rest of the Norte I'd missed by turning onto the Primitiho last time. If you prefer your option do you have a particular reason?
I walked it :D

But seriously. I also walked Salvador but avoided Primitivo in 2016 due to the weather. I had quite enough of rain that year on Via de Bayona and really wasn't happy with walking in the mountains in these conditions. OTOH the weather can be quite similar on Invierno and Sanabres as on Primitivo.
 
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This is a question on the Camino de Madrid for those who have recently walked it. I have had challenges in getting enough water on previous caminos, particularly on the VdlP. As I have looked through some of the maps.me routing of the Madrid, I note that there are many sources of drinking water noted, including on the route through Fuenfria Pass. Did you ever have difficulty finding drinking water along the route? How much did you usually carry? Do you remember any particular places where water was not available? I would rather not carry more than I need to, but this has been a continuing challenge on every camino except the Frances.
 
This is a question on the Camino de Madrid for those who have recently walked it. I have had challenges in getting enough water on previous caminos, particularly on the VdlP. As I have looked through some of the maps.me routing of the Madrid, I note that there are many sources of drinking water noted, including on the route through Fuenfria Pass. Did you ever have difficulty finding drinking water along the route? How much did you usually carry? Do you remember any particular places where water was not available? I would rather not carry more than I need to, but this has been a continuing challenge on every camino except the Frances.
Hello @Albertagirl I walked a couple of years ago. I am not obsessional about water (nor many other things ;)) but I can say I don't remember any particular difficulty along the route from Madrid to Sahagun, with one exception.
I usually carry about 1 or 1.5 litres (depending on season) in a bladder within my bag and usually a 0.75L bottle, bought once, and refilled along the way. I hardly ever buy water, but always drink from taps.
On my first day, I walked from centre of Madrid, and did not have opportunity to fill the water bladder first. I had come effectively straight from the plane and started walking after midday Mass in Santiago church. It was a very hot day and I was walking through the afternoon.
I failed to stock up with water and did run out completely between the city outskirts (Plaza de Castilla) and Tres Cantos. It is the only time ever, on any camino, that I have genuinely run out of water. And I was looking VERY hard to find somewhere to get water during the last 10km.
After that, never had a problem, following my normal plan.
It is a wonderful, quiet, but very well resourced route. I hope you will have a great time. Tim
 
One other thing @Albertagirl you have joined a rather old thread here! The 'keen ones' will find it ;) but you may get more advice from a wider range if you start a new thread with an indicative title.
But I know that you know that! :):):)
AND - the Madrid aficionados are the 'keen ones'!! Again, Buen Camino.
 
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This is a question on the Camino de Madrid for those who have recently walked it. I have had challenges in getting enough water on previous caminos, particularly on the VdlP. As I have looked through some of the maps.me routing of the Madrid, I note that there are many sources of drinking water noted, including on the route through Fuenfria Pass. Did you ever have difficulty finding drinking water along the route? How much did you usually carry? Do you remember any particular places where water was not available? I would rather not carry more than I need to, but this has been a continuing challenge on every camino except the Frances.
Near Fuenfria pass is located the fountain that gives name to the pass but it is a little bit out of the Camino on a track down right.
And on the Camino down to La Granja: Fuente de la Reina is a very good fountain.
 
Thanks, @timr
I chose this thread because I like the idea of persons who walked it sharing how it was for them. I have a fair idea already how it was for you, having met you at a certain bar on the day that you completed this camino. For me, having sufficient water to drink at all times is a health issue, which has recurred on my last two caminos. As I do not want to have to go through the procedure of finding a clinic and making complicated payment arrangements (why won't they just accept my cash?) I have decided to do whatever I can to see that I have sufficient water at all times. But it is heavy to carry. And I can't risk running out. Hence the question. Thanks again,
Mary Louise
 
Thanks, @timr
I chose this thread because I like the idea of persons who walked it sharing how it was for them. I have a fair idea already how it was for you, having met you at a certain bar on the day that you completed this camino.
@Albertagirl Ah yes indeed!!! And we had a wonderful evening at the Peaceable Kingdom too. Your planning and precautions sound impeccable. I hope all goes well for you. I am moving in the other direction these days. I walked from Canterbury to Brindisi last year and will shortly continue on the road towards Istanbul through Albania, Macedonia and Greece. BC. T.
 
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@Albertagirl Ah yes indeed!!! And we had a wonderful evening at the Peaceable Kingdom too. Your planning and precautions sound impeccable. I hope all goes well for you. I am moving in the other direction these days. I walked from Canterbury to Brindisi last year and will shortly continue on the road towards Istanbul through Albania, Macedonia and Greece. BC. T.
@timr
I followed your blog from Canterbury through much of France, until it ceased and I could not find a renewal. Did I see something about your route through the Great San Bernard Pass? I have never felt called to blog; it can take so much time and the availability of wifi, but I enjoyed yours. As a woman, much of your route eastward seems risky for me, and it will be a while before I complete my chosen routes in western Europe. Buen camino to you on your ongoing journey.
 
@Albertagirl Yeeeessss. I sort of ground to a halt on the blog and continued only on Facebook, due to ever decreasing amount of wifi and slowly increasing amount of fellow pilgrims! Long term plan is to finish the blog but I have been much busier than I thought and indeed hoped since I came home. I am now based in London. Tomorrow is the anniversary of the day I left home for Canterbury! Blogging is probably a little bit too much effort, though when I was entirely alone, often, it did occupy the evenings! Much of my route eastward may be risky for me too!! ;) But I will be careful.....
 

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