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Bed race and the Primitivo

Ian Afloat

Active Member
Time of past OR future Camino
CF July 25th 2017 from SJPDP
Seems that the bed race has reached the Primitivo. Pilgrims turning up at the Grado donativo at 1130 this morning. It doesn’t open until 2pm. Phone calls every day asking if we take reservations. Last night the town was full pilgrim bed wise.
 
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Grado was "completo" too, when I arrived there last year on June 13th (a Wednesday). I was forced to walk on to San Juan de Villapanada which was hard, but turned out fine because of the wonderful albergue.

I would encourage those who arrive so early because they have just walked from Escamplero either to walk on to San Juan de Villapanada or Cabruana, because I think it is somewhat unfair to pilgrims arriving tired after a long walk, to force them to walk on.
 
The Primitivo was like this way back in 2010 during August and the latter parts of July and Early September so it's not new, and it happens every year.I would like to walk the Primitivo again and in an August so I would have consider a tent or being creative with my ending sections.

Buen Camino
 
The same happened im the beginning of july. There are peaks of starters in the beginning of every month, especially july and august, but for sure also september. Many people still seem to have holidays per the beginning of a month. Next week it will go down a little again with again enough beds available.
Our albergue is 7-9 days walking from Oviedo, so we will have our monthly peak next week. :)
 
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The same happened im the beginning of july. There are peaks of starters in the beginning of every month, especially july and august, but for sure also september. Many people still seem to have holidays per the beginning of a month. Next week it will go down a little again with again enough beds available.
Our albergue is 7-9 days walking from Oviedo, so we will have our monthly peak next week. :)
Where is it? I’m walking to Santiago when I’ve finished here.
 
Why don't you encourage those that arrive so early to keep on walking?
You never know a person's reason for stopping. Maybe they started at 5:00AM, or sick or with blisters or just don't want to walk further. If you said that to 10 pilgrims I bet you would get 20 answers to why they stopped.
 
Where is it? I’m walking to Santiago when I’ve finished here.
@Thomas1962 is now hospitalero at the albergue at Ponte Ferreira, a day out of Lugo. https://www.ponteferreira.com/ I was there under the “former management” and it is a wonderful place. An old stone house, lovely surroundings, just a really nice place. I hear the new hospitaleros are doing a phenomenal job!

(As an aside, and if you are interested in ancient things like Roman crypts, I would recommend that you consider taking the very slight detour to Santa Eulalia da Bóveda, with its 4th century (?) painted crypt. Just amazing).
 
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@Thomas1962

(As an aside, and if you are interested in ancient things like Roman crypts, I would recommend that you consider taking the very slight detour to Santa Eulalia da Bóveda, with its 4th century (?) painted crypt. Just amazing).
highly recommended, it is a shocking, unique place, so old, and the wall carvings and paintings are just UNIQUE, as in the type of place you would not find anywhere else. Not to be missed!
 
Where is it? I’m walking to Santiago when I’ve finished here.
Like @peregrina2000 wrote already, albergue Ponte Ferreira, 27 kms from Lugo.

I'm not 100% sure but I think waves like start this from each place where many people start their camino: SJPdP, Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Sarria, Porto, Irun, Oviedo, Lugo, etc. And, just know that many people start there in the weekends, so there are waves from those days too.
I remember a few years ago I walked the Frances in july. It was very quit untill... I arrived In Leon on august first in a weekend. From then on there were many many people.
 
@Thomas1962 is now hospitalero at the albergue at Ponte Ferreira, a day out of Lugo. https://www.ponteferreira.com/ I was there under the “former management” and it is a wonderful place. An old stone house, lovely surroundings, just a really nice place. I hear the new hospitaleros are doing a phenomenal job!

(As an aside, and if you are interested in ancient things like Roman crypts, I would recommend that you consider taking the very slight detour to Santa Eulalia da Bóveda, with its 4th century (?) painted crypt. Just amazing).
Thank you @peregrina2000 😇
Santa Eulalia de Boveda is indeed an amazing place, still difficult to believe that such a place is just there! The people from the village who open up the place whenever there are visitors are so nice!
 
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Thank you @peregrina2000 😇
Santa Eulalia de Boveda is indeed an amazing place, still difficult to believe that such a place is just there! The people from the village who open up the place whenever there are visitors are so nice!
I remember that @Juanma used to have instructions on his page about how to walk the detour. Not sure if you accept reservations, but if you do, it is a great option for people to visit Santa Eulalia and then not have to worry about a bed.
 
Hola, If all goes well we start from Oviedo on September 24th, date picked to be hopefully clear of holidays. A slow Camino suitable for 2 x plus 80's. Finish in Santiago on 12 October also if all goes well! Sounds worrying. Is there still likely to be a bed race going on at this time? There are only two of us geriatrics.
 
Grado was "completo" too, when I arrived there last year on June 13th (a Wednesday). I was forced to walk on to San Juan de Villapanada which was hard, but turned out fine because of the wonderful albergue.

I would encourage those who arrive so early because they have just walked from Escamplero either to walk on to San Juan de Villapanada or Cabruana, because I think it is somewhat unfair to pilgrims arriving tired after a long walk, to force them to walk on.

Most of the pilgrims here have walked from Oviedo, 26km away. The egress from Grado is a steep climb and it is quite warm. How much further should I tell them to walk?
You never know a person's reason for stopping. Maybe they started at 5:00AM, or sick or with blisters or just don't want to walk further. If you said that to 10 pilgrims I bet you would get 20 answers to why they stopped.
yes, we are hospitaleros, not the distance police! Most of the walkers who stop here have walked from Oviedo, some 26km away.
 
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Hola, If all goes well we start from Oviedo on September 24th, date picked to be hopefully clear of holidays. A slow Camino suitable for 2 x plus 80's. Finish in Santiago on 12 October also if all goes well! Sounds worrying. Is there still likely to be a bed race going on at this time? There are only two of us geriatrics.
Should be OK...all the teachers will be back at work!
 
The Primitivo was like this way back in 2010 during August and the latter parts of July and Early September so it's not new, and it happens every year.I would like to walk the Primitivo again and in an August so I would have consider a tent or being creative with my ending sections.

Buen Camino
I start walking from Oviedo on the 26th, so this thread is really helpful. I think Escamplero to San Juan and as many intermediary stages to Lugo May be my plan. After that, I will divert to the Verde....🙏🏼
 
Thank you @peregrina2000 😇
Santa Eulalia de Boveda is indeed an amazing place, still difficult to believe that such a place is just there! The people from the village who open up the place whenever there are visitors are so nice!
The actual building is kept locked. If it is not open (and there are no other directions/instructions) - with the crypt on your left - go on down the road a short distance and there is what looks like a garage/store shed - also on the left hand side of the road. A little place with information and also the key is kept there. (At least it was when we visited)
 
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Hola, If all goes well we start from Oviedo on September 24th, date picked to be hopefully clear of holidays. A slow Camino suitable for 2 x plus 80's. Finish in Santiago on 12 October also if all goes well! Sounds worrying. Is there still likely to be a bed race going on at this time? There are only two of us geriatrics.
These dates should be no problem, it is getting much more quit by then.
And I think most hospitalero's will have a weak spot for geriatrics. 😉
If you do find it is quit busy, you can always start to reservate one day ahead.

I remember that Juanma used to have instructions on his page about how to walk the detour. Not sure if you accept reservations, but if you do, it is a great option for people to visit Santa Eulalia and then not have to worry about a bed.
We are still working on our website, this will be there for sure too...:cool:
 
A group of pilgrims had to sleep in the park last night here in Grado due to the shortage of beds
 
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Most of the pilgrims here have walked from Oviedo, 26km away. The egress from Grado is a steep climb and it is quite warm. How much further should I tell them to walk?

yes, we are hospitaleros, not the distance police! Most of the walkers who stop here have walked from Oviedo, some 26km away.

I had walked from Oviedo, too, via Narranco - even more kms. But Grado was completo and I was asked to walk on.

I do not think, that on peak-days with many pilgrims expected to arrive it is wrong to ask those who have come to Grado by bus or only the short distance from Escamplero (13 km) and seem physically capable to walk on, to walk to one of the next albergues and to leave the beds in Grado for those who have walked the entire way from Oviedo and arrive late.
 
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["I do not think, that on peak-days with many pilgrims expected to arrive it is wrong to ask those who have come to Grado by bus or only the short distance from Escamplero (13 km) and seem physically capable to walk on, to walk to one of the next albergues and to leave the beds in Grado for those who have walked the entire way from Oviedo"]

😐 How do you know about peoples physics, do you really think you can tell who can walk more and who can't? You Don't know all their problems and reasons to come by bus etc. It's very arrogant of you to judge people like that, I think. 👎
 
["I do not think, that on peak-days with many pilgrims expected to arrive it is wrong to ask those who have come to Grado by bus or only the short distance from Escamplero (13 km) and seem physically capable to walk on, to walk to one of the next albergues and to leave the beds in Grado for those who have walked the entire way from Oviedo"]

😐 How do you know about peoples physics, do you really think you can tell who can walk more and who can't? You Don't know all their problems and reasons to come by bus etc. It's very arrogant of you to judge people like that, I think. 👎
Maybe, but traditionally there was a priority order for AdPs in something like this order - walkers, horse riders, cyclists, then others. In the past is a walker arrived and an AdP was full someone else could be asked to move on. Its a lot easier going another 10k on a bike!
 
["I do not think, that on peak-days with many pilgrims expected to arrive it is wrong to ask those who have come to Grado by bus or only the short distance from Escamplero (13 km) and seem physically capable to walk on, to walk to one of the next albergues and to leave the beds in Grado for those who have walked the entire way from Oviedo"]

😐 How do you know about peoples physics, do you really think you can tell who can walk more and who can't? You Don't know all their problems and reasons to come by bus etc. It's very arrogant of you to judge people like that, I think. 👎

I think, you can see very clearly, who is capable to walk on. You see who is old and/or tired, disabled, limping, suffering from blisters or depressed. If I were a hospitalero, I would not refuse a bed to them.

But I would feel bad, if I had to send them 6 or 8 km further on because all the beds were occupied by young healthy people who just decided that it would be nicer to stop at Grado, because there they could easily go to the supermarket and get some more wine or beer for their Party.

Or, what I have observed last year, people taking a bus to Grado, not because they were not capable to walk, but because they wanted to get a bed in the public albergue, which is donativo (which they translated as free).

As a pilgrim, you should also think about your fellow-pilgrims and be willing to leave your bed for someone who is more tired, has less money etc. than you. You can not force someone to walk on, if he does not want to, but you can appeal to his common sense.
 
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When we walked there was no albergue in Grado, just the Auto-bar B&B. The other pension opposite had closed. If arriving by bus I agree that people should expect to go to paid accommodation not an albergue. However you cannot judge that a pilgrim should have to walk on for you just because they have walked a shorter distance. That might be all that they can manage even if not obvious. Maybe those walking long distances and expecting a bed should walk a shorter day and stop earlier .....
 
I think, you can see very clearly, who is capable to walk on. You see who is old and/or tired, disabled, limping, suffering from blisters or depressed. If I were

As a pilgrim, you should also think about your fellow-pilgrims and be willing to leave your bed for someone who is more tired, has less money etc. than you. You can not force someone to walk on, if he does not want to, but you can appeal to his common sense.

Ok, that's a nice thought, but last April I walked with my friend who walked with two crutches having both her knees operated and me having astma - no sympathy from hospitaleros or other pilgrims. They asked why we only walked for 15 km per day! We decided to stay in hotels after a few days. We did not expect any favours, but I doubt there is the kind of spirit you picture any more. Sorry for that 😕
 
I feel for you as I am basically a 15km a day walker. This may in fact be easier on the Frances than the Primitivo as albergues are nearer mostly together. On the Primitivo it is possible, with planning, to make short stages and there are many more albergues than when we walked. If distance is a problem then some booking ahead (even just for next day) may be needed. We found ourselves a day ahead of a surge - it caught us up when we spent 2 nights in Grandas de Salime and passed us as we took a 6km walk to Castro next day. Accommodation booked in both places as we wanted a) the extra night in Grandas for the museum - and b) to stop early at Castro to see the museum there.

Neither of us would want to walk on if we had done our kms for the day - we know our limitations - so usually stopped earlier rather than later each day. Those who walk long distances choose to do so, but when there is a 'bed race' occurring then stopping early can be the best thing to do - especially on the Primitivo where there can be long distances between accommodation of any sort. We never felt pressurised to walk more or criticised, but that was 2012 and many attitudes have changed since then, some for the worst sadly.
 
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Actually, I was wrong about the bedrace. The muni was “complete” 2 nights ago, when I was in Grado. I walked straight to La Quintana
Well the muni n Grado only has 16 bunks so it is hardly surprising that it should fill up quite quickly, especially as it is actually quite a comfortable albergue with full time volunteer hospitaleros and good facilities.
There are over 60 other beds available in the town at between 10 and 15 euros a night. It’s not like the muni is the only gig in town. In the two weeks that I was there we never “told” people that they had to walk on. We told them their options and let them make an informed decision. If they didn’t want to pay 12 euros, they probably walked to the next muni 5km away, and we often called ahead for them to make sure they would get a space. No one drove them out of town with a pitch fork.
If the whole town was completo and it was too late for someone to walk on or they weren’t up to it, or the next 2 albergues 5 and 6km away were full, we always found a way for them to get a comfortable night’s sleep in Grado. In fact most nights we looked after 18 pilgrims, and one night 25.
When people decided they would camp out in the park, we always made sure they had a shower and invited them to join us for breakfast in the morning.
 
When I was in Grado last year, the private albergue had not opened yet and all other accomodation was full, too. Even the slightly more expensive Hotel AutoBar informed at the reception with a sign that they had no rooms left. One alternative would have been to walk back 2 km to the entrance of the town and try our luck at one of the obvious more upmarket Hotels, the other was to walk on to San Juan de Villapanada, which was also nearly completo on that day.
 
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Most of the pilgrims here have walked from Oviedo, 26km away. The egress from Grado is a steep climb and it is quite warm. How much further should I tell them to walk?
The next village with an Albergue Municipal is San Juan de Viillapañada, about 5 km further. But they don't accept reservations, being a municipal albergue and it's almost 1 km off the main Camino. So call heading there to find out availability. The "Hospitalero" Domingo is very helpful and willing to throw one or two mattresses in the kitchen area. About another 1 km or so is the Albergue de Cabruñana.

But there are plenty of private albergues in Grado you can call ahead of time to book beds. A good app to get information is "Buen Camino" which comes in different languages.
 

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