- Time of past OR future Camino
- 2023 Vasco, Meseta, Portugues Coastal
Hi all. Just wanted to share some thoughts about my first winter Camino. This was number 5 for me and I wanted to try a new experience. I usually start my caminos around September 22 or so and finish the end of October. I turned 65 this year and when I did my first camino I did some 30+K days now I max out at about 22-24K. I did do a 28k day the next to last day.
Even though I started about October 28th I still consider my walk a winter Camino based on the fact that the weather felt that way.
About 3 days out of Pamplona the winds started up. For about a week they reached as high as 50 kilometers an hour with gusts up to about 75 or 80. In your face all day. Although the day walking into Logrono wasn't too bad. Had to walk an additional 7 or 8k that day as the President of Spain was in town and it was Dia de los Muertos weekend so Logrono was solidly booked.
Just before Burgos the winds died down somewhat but the rain started and didn't really want to stop. It usually wasn't too bad in the morning but it rained very hard in the afternoon. Some days it was pretty intense to say the least. As we walked further into the Meseta of course the temperature started to drop.
There were alot more pilgrims walking than I expected. I forget what village I was in but the woman who checked me in told me (This was about November 8 or 9) there were more pilgrims in the first week than she saw all of last November. Albergues were generally full and as time past and more and more people got sick it sometimes sounded like a consumption ward in 1870. Many nights in many albergues the heat would be great up until about 8 or 9 and then it would go off and it could get really cold. I had a light sleeping bag and virtually every albergue had blankets but it was still cold. One other note. I used Gronze alot as well as the Buen Camino app to see which albergues were open. I also used Aprinca.com alot. There list is more accurate but is very incomplete. There were many many instances that both Gronze and Buen Camino listed an albergue as open and they were closed. Even times when they were listed as being open all year. I think the accuracy rate was only about 60% but I am just guessing. So if there is a favorite albergue or just want to be on the safe side in towns with only one or two definitely call ahead. Also I am sure part of the problem was that I was walking in November when even though they say they may be open until a certain date there, they closed early. Having said that as I usually start pretty early. I never had an issue getting a bed. Unless I picked a town to stop with only one or two places and they both turned out to be closed. Never had to walk more than a few K more to get a bed.
As we got closer to Galicia the weather got colder and nastier. People were getting sicker and sicker. I started to cough pretty violently for about 4 or 5 days. Lots of phlegm and mucos. My coughing really became intense and went to a small clinic in Sahagun (I think it was Sahagun) where I received great care. (Had travelers insurance that really came in handy) and I had a full exam and was told I had bronchial spasms. (It helps if you can speak Spanish at clinics). They gave me steroids and an inhaler. The doctor told me to rest a few days which I did. She also gave me the name of a doctor in Astorga to see just to follow up. A good friend of hers. That doctor saw me said I was doing well and didn't even charge me. That was pretty cool. Even though I am doing better I still haven't completely recovered. I know of at least 5 fellow pilgrims that had to cut their caminos short because of illness.
In Astorga I rested one more day and we were told to take a bus to Ponferrada because the day before they were stopping people in Rabinal because it was too dangerous to walk up to Cruz de Ferro because of the depth of the snow. People were being sent back to Astorga when they arrived in Rabinal because there was no place to sleep. That really bummed me out because Cruz de Ferro is a special and sacred place for me. I have tried to leave alot of stuff there the previous two times I walked the CF.
I didn't even attempt to walk on the Camino going up to O'Cebreiro. Too wet, too cold and for me too dangerous in these conditions. Took the road and it was much easier. From O'Cebreiro on I walked on the road alot. Coming out of O'Cebreiro the snow was knee deep on the Camino. Who needs that although I saw lots of pilgrims walking it.
From here on it was cold, damp and foggy in the mornings. But I was usually pretty warm. GOOD GLOVES, GOOD HAT, AND DEFINATELY ONE OR TWO BUFFS. The buff really was a lifesaver. As the elevation dropped I was able to get back to the Camino. From there except for one day it rained every single day, (Sometimes mixed with or just snow at the beginning) until Santiago.
It was still a great experience. Met some more lifetime friends. But it was very tiring. I usually eat more in albergues but for some reason in alot of the albergues I stayed in kitchen facilities were not the best. Maybe just my bad luck.
I will miss my friends from Italy, Sardinia, Spain, Korea and especially my Aussie pals David and Emilia. (They were interviewed a while back by Dan Mullens, if you want to get to know them).
Had a perfect ending to my Camino when I went to Porto to meet by 27 year old baby girl, love of my life, for a week in Porto. She is in grad school in Manchester, England. We had a great time in Portugal. It reminded me once again that although I like the Spanish people and Spain, and I have traveled to many distant lands, the Portuguese people are without a doubt the nicest, most generous and caring folks I have ever met. That's why I will be doing th CP again starting the end of September with my college brothers.
Well thats it! Once again I have proven what a big mouth I have. I never check for my spelling errors as I get bored with what I have written.
Buen Camino!!!!
Even though I started about October 28th I still consider my walk a winter Camino based on the fact that the weather felt that way.
About 3 days out of Pamplona the winds started up. For about a week they reached as high as 50 kilometers an hour with gusts up to about 75 or 80. In your face all day. Although the day walking into Logrono wasn't too bad. Had to walk an additional 7 or 8k that day as the President of Spain was in town and it was Dia de los Muertos weekend so Logrono was solidly booked.
Just before Burgos the winds died down somewhat but the rain started and didn't really want to stop. It usually wasn't too bad in the morning but it rained very hard in the afternoon. Some days it was pretty intense to say the least. As we walked further into the Meseta of course the temperature started to drop.
There were alot more pilgrims walking than I expected. I forget what village I was in but the woman who checked me in told me (This was about November 8 or 9) there were more pilgrims in the first week than she saw all of last November. Albergues were generally full and as time past and more and more people got sick it sometimes sounded like a consumption ward in 1870. Many nights in many albergues the heat would be great up until about 8 or 9 and then it would go off and it could get really cold. I had a light sleeping bag and virtually every albergue had blankets but it was still cold. One other note. I used Gronze alot as well as the Buen Camino app to see which albergues were open. I also used Aprinca.com alot. There list is more accurate but is very incomplete. There were many many instances that both Gronze and Buen Camino listed an albergue as open and they were closed. Even times when they were listed as being open all year. I think the accuracy rate was only about 60% but I am just guessing. So if there is a favorite albergue or just want to be on the safe side in towns with only one or two definitely call ahead. Also I am sure part of the problem was that I was walking in November when even though they say they may be open until a certain date there, they closed early. Having said that as I usually start pretty early. I never had an issue getting a bed. Unless I picked a town to stop with only one or two places and they both turned out to be closed. Never had to walk more than a few K more to get a bed.
As we got closer to Galicia the weather got colder and nastier. People were getting sicker and sicker. I started to cough pretty violently for about 4 or 5 days. Lots of phlegm and mucos. My coughing really became intense and went to a small clinic in Sahagun (I think it was Sahagun) where I received great care. (Had travelers insurance that really came in handy) and I had a full exam and was told I had bronchial spasms. (It helps if you can speak Spanish at clinics). They gave me steroids and an inhaler. The doctor told me to rest a few days which I did. She also gave me the name of a doctor in Astorga to see just to follow up. A good friend of hers. That doctor saw me said I was doing well and didn't even charge me. That was pretty cool. Even though I am doing better I still haven't completely recovered. I know of at least 5 fellow pilgrims that had to cut their caminos short because of illness.
In Astorga I rested one more day and we were told to take a bus to Ponferrada because the day before they were stopping people in Rabinal because it was too dangerous to walk up to Cruz de Ferro because of the depth of the snow. People were being sent back to Astorga when they arrived in Rabinal because there was no place to sleep. That really bummed me out because Cruz de Ferro is a special and sacred place for me. I have tried to leave alot of stuff there the previous two times I walked the CF.
I didn't even attempt to walk on the Camino going up to O'Cebreiro. Too wet, too cold and for me too dangerous in these conditions. Took the road and it was much easier. From O'Cebreiro on I walked on the road alot. Coming out of O'Cebreiro the snow was knee deep on the Camino. Who needs that although I saw lots of pilgrims walking it.
From here on it was cold, damp and foggy in the mornings. But I was usually pretty warm. GOOD GLOVES, GOOD HAT, AND DEFINATELY ONE OR TWO BUFFS. The buff really was a lifesaver. As the elevation dropped I was able to get back to the Camino. From there except for one day it rained every single day, (Sometimes mixed with or just snow at the beginning) until Santiago.
It was still a great experience. Met some more lifetime friends. But it was very tiring. I usually eat more in albergues but for some reason in alot of the albergues I stayed in kitchen facilities were not the best. Maybe just my bad luck.
I will miss my friends from Italy, Sardinia, Spain, Korea and especially my Aussie pals David and Emilia. (They were interviewed a while back by Dan Mullens, if you want to get to know them).
Had a perfect ending to my Camino when I went to Porto to meet by 27 year old baby girl, love of my life, for a week in Porto. She is in grad school in Manchester, England. We had a great time in Portugal. It reminded me once again that although I like the Spanish people and Spain, and I have traveled to many distant lands, the Portuguese people are without a doubt the nicest, most generous and caring folks I have ever met. That's why I will be doing th CP again starting the end of September with my college brothers.
Well thats it! Once again I have proven what a big mouth I have. I never check for my spelling errors as I get bored with what I have written.
Buen Camino!!!!