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I know the 5 hour bus trip from Madrid airport sounds like a bit much. We flew from Newark on United into Madrid in September. Then the bus to Oviedo. What a treat going through the Picos de Europa park. It made the trip worth the time. It was spectacular. Just a thought. Good luck.
Just returned from getting an antigen test for return to the United States at Hospital HM Rosaleda, a private clinic by the train station. Super easy, called, made appt for today and got the test fast. 40 euro and they speak English very well.
We climbed the Alps through the pass on the Via Francigena mid August 2019. There was snow at the pass but nothing new. After starting down the Italy side we had a cold rain with hail making the trail very slippery. We were happy to have gone through the pass when we did.
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