Norte after Primitivo experience

[redstone]

Hi everybody!

I walked the Primitivo (Oviedo to Santiago), my first camino, last summer in July and I had a great experience.
This year I booked my flight again and I am planning to walk camino del Norte from Ribadeo (first village in Galicia) to Santiago and then to Muxia and Finisterre (again in July).

I loved the Primitivo, and I wonder if the camino del Norte will provide the same kind of experience. I remember the day we joined the camino Francés was a sort of a shock: to find so many people walking (it felt like queuing up sometimes) and the albergues were so huge that you did not know the fellow pilgrims anymore. And the bars were packed, and you had to wait a long time for the toilet, etc.

What I loved about the Primitivo was the fact that there was a group of 20 to 30 people walking at a similar pace and we would meet in the albergues and stops along the way. In the albergues I felt very safe. I could, for instance, leave a phone charging unattended and this sort of thing. It was easy to have contact with everybody, and I imagine that in a larger group, like in the Francés, this is much harder, not because of the amount of people, but the different situation that is created when sharing the roof with a hundred people or more.

So this is my question: Is camino del Norte comparable to Primitivo or it is more crowded (in Galicia, in July)? And the same question goes for the route from Santiago to Muxia and Finisterre, but I think I rather ask this in another section of the forum

Gracias!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hey redstone - sorry no-one got back to you - hope you're still out there!
I had a very similar experience to you when I was on the Primitivo, meeting up regularly with a very relaxed and genial crowd, some of whom I've stayed in touch with. And yes we had a good laugh when we hit the Frances at Melide. At 7am us laid-back Primitivo people started to get up and think about Cafe con Leche. We were the only ones left in that huge dormitory - all the Frances people had already left town about an hour before. I walked the Norte last year, doing the second half in August. It wasn't quite as intimate as the Primitivo and in coastal resorts you definitely need to keep a close eye on your possessions. I think it will be quite busy too, but manageable and friendly. There's a well-known bottle-neck at Miraz which has about 60 fewer beds than the albergues on either side (and it's within the last 100km) which you'll need to manage.
The municipal albergue in Ribadeo only has 12 beds I think, and Ribadeo is actually where you leave the coast and go inland. So I'd say, if you have the chance, try and start two or three days further back and pass through Tapia. Inhale some of that sea air before you take on the hills (admittedly much slighter than those on the Primitivo).
The closest to high-season that I've done the Finisterre section was in October and there were about 30-40 people walking, so the albergues were pretty full for days 1 and 2. But after that there's lots more accommodation. Cheers, tom

 

[jpflavin1]

Redstone:

I walk in the Spring so my experience will be different.

The last section of the Norte is the easiest, imo, and the numbers of Pilgrims were a few more than the Primitivo. Ribadeo as a starting point offers lots of options including a Parador. There are adequate accommodations to stay all along the way, with the exception of Miraz. There is only an Albergue and a bar, bring food to cook. There are additional options further up the road, check at Albergue or bar for information on them. The Albergue before (Baamonde) and after (Sabrado dos Monxes) (the monastery) are very large.

When I hit the Frances, I walked through Arzua and stayed in Salceda. Two Private Albergues and a crazy bar worth at least a stop. I liked the herbal Liqueur that was flowing freely. Then the next day I walked on through to Santiago. I only spent one night on the Frances and was not overwhelmed, July could be different.

Tom's suggestion to go back to Tapia de Casariego is a good one. It is only about 10 km's back from Ribadeo. The location is well worth the extra 10 km's. Tom is also right in saying this is where you leave the coast so Tapia will give you a taste of the Norte you missed.

Hope this helps,
Joe

 

[Nysha Concannon]

Hi Joe,

I just wanted to check what month you did the Camino north? Did you do Ribadeo to Santiago?

My father and I are planning to do this route together in June and I have a concern about finding enough options for accommodation along the route as it will be the first time we've both done the Camino.

Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Nysha

 

[lettinggo]

Hola Nysha and welcome to the forum

The thread you replied to is a bit old so it may be hard to get an answer from the poster.
One way to get his attention is for you to PM (personal message) him, or you may try to like his post as he will then get a notification about which post was liked.
Alternatively you could start a new thread and ask your question there.

Regarding accommodations I have not walked this part of the Norte but my understanding is that there should be plenty of options, either Albergues, hostals or hotels. You can have a look here for some details: http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/caminos/guia-del-camino-del-norte

I am sure other forum members who actually walked that stretch will jump in with advice.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi Joe,

I just wanted to check what month you did the Camino north? Did you do Ribadeo to Santiago?

My father and I are planning to do this route together in June and I have a concern about finding enough options for accommodation along the route as it will be the first time we've both done the Camino.

Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Nysha

Nysha:

I walked April 1st to April 29th. I started in San Sebastian and finished in Santiago and remained on the Northern route the entire way. I had no issues with accommodations and only stayed in Hotels about 4-5 times. The Gronze.com and Eroski websites offer a great deal of information on accommodations. I have also posted information on a lot of those Albergues/Hotels etc. on several threads. Please feel free to PM me, if you have additional questions.

Lettinggo's advice is really good in regards to getting a response. A PM to the poster, a like or replying off their post will send an alert to the poster. This increases the chances of a more timely response.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hi Joe,

I just wanted to check what month you did the Camino north? Did you do Ribadeo to Santiago?

My father and I are planning to do this route together in June and I have a concern about finding enough options for accommodation along the route as it will be the first time we've both done the Camino.

Any advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Nysha

Hello Nysha,

I walked del Norte last fall - starting, I think, around September 10th. The vast majority of the albergues have many beds so that was not an issue. This being said, the charming hospitaleras in Pobena were telling us that one particular day earlier in the summer the place was packed, including the massage table, dining room table and tents they have in the yard. They sent people to sleep on the concrete slab under the church's porch. So I guess this can always happen. If you are concerned, think about booking ahead of time. I'm a slow walker and did not want to stress, so I have a few places booked along the way. Came in very handy after about a week when I developped plantar fasciitis and was even slower. Have a wonderful time with your Dad!

 

[shefollowsshells]

If I was going back to do the Norte I would actually look at doing the first 1/2 over the last bit that you are suggesting.

 

[grayland]

I walked the Norte from Irun last year (2014) from late August. We bypassed the Primitivo and I am doing that and the Portugues this year.
In answer to the question of numbers...there were far more people than I expected. Even a bit crowded at times. Some albergues were full and people turned away at times. There would be no reason to suspect that you would be alone if you did not want to be.
Having said that, it is nothing like the crowds on the CF..more like I remember the CF back in 2009 before the crazy numbers started.

I talked with many people from Europe and other places who were doing their first camino. They told me that the word is really out that the Camino Frances is crazy crowded and they did not want to get involved with that. At least half, if not more, were first timers.
I did not run into any North Americans, we did hear that there was another American couple somewhere ahead or behind us.

Bottom line. The Camino del Norte is no longer unknown or lonely. It can be crowded, but not like the CF. Albergues can be full but usually were half to 3/4 full.

 

[Shaun StJames]

Redstone:

I walk in the Spring so my experience will be different.

The last section of the Norte is the easiest, imo, and the numbers of Pilgrims were a few more than the Primitivo. Ribadeo as a starting point offers lots of options including a Parador. There are adequate accommodations to stay all along the way, with the exception of Miraz. There is only an Albergue and a bar, bring food to cook. There are additional options further up the road, check at Albergue or bar for information on them. The Albergue before (Baamonde) and after (Sabrado dos Monxes) (the monastery) are very large.

When I hit the Frances, I walked through Arzua and stayed in Salceda. Two Private Albergues and a crazy bar worth at least a stop. I liked the herbal Liqueur that was flowing freely. Then the next day I walked on through to Santiago. I only spent one night on the Frances and was not overwhelmed, July could be different.

Tom's suggestion to go back to Tapia de Casariego is a good one. It is only about 10 km's back from Ribadeo. The location is well worth the extra 10 km's. Tom is also right in saying this is where you leave the coast so Tapia will give you a taste of the Norte you missed.

Hope this helps,
Joe

Hi Joe,
Kirsty and I will be walking our first Camino in September this year (2015) and I am a bit worried about the lack of info on the Norte accom between Vilalba and Sobrado. Any thoughts or suggestions. Hotels ok

Thank you in advance

Shaun

 

[Tia Valeria]

Try looking here (Gronze) and also in the next section link for etapa 31. There is very little accomodation listed. The CSJ guides have good info too - 2 booklets. Note that the single booklet is a general resume about the Norte and not a guide.
Buen Camino

 

[jpflavin1]

Hi Joe,
Kirsty and I will be walking our first Camino in September this year (2015) and I am a bit worried about the lack of info on the Norte accom between Vilalba and Sobrado. Any thoughts or suggestions. Hotels ok

Thank you in advance

Shaun

Shaun:

I did not stop in Vilalba. I walked straight through to Baamonde. There is an Albergue in Vilalba but it was not open at the time I went through town. It is located on the Camino and looked very modern. I walked that day from Abadin to Baamonde (very long day about 40 km's). I would recommend you stay in Vilalba unless you are pressed for time like I was. In Abadin I stayed in a hotel, though there is an Albergue in Gontan a km or two previous too Abadin. Baamonde is a very large but nice Albergue with several restaurant options in town for eating. The next day is a short walk to Miraz (15km's). Very nice Albergue in Miraz but only a bar in town. I would suggest you bring food for cooking or be willing to settle for a sandwich in the bar. There were a couple of options another 5-10km's but would recommend you stay in Miraz. Sobrado de Monxes is the Monastery. A very large Albergue that does not officially open until 4:30. We arrived at 1:30 and they gave us a bed and we took cold showers. The late arrivals had hot showers. They must turn the hot water on later. So if you get there early, hold off on your shower unless you like them cold. The next day I walked through Arzua to Salceda. Two very nice Albergue's. I stayed (Hostel Boni) next to this great bar, can not remember the name, where I was introduced to Herbal Orujo. Albergue was ten euro's, had a washer and dryer. The only issue might be that the showers were in a building just outside the rear door and the were common a common room, though separate for men and women. Could be a privacy issue for some. Very modern Albergue. There are lots of Albergue options once you hit the Frances.

As Tia suggests the Gronze and Eroski guides, which are both online, are great for accommodations. Hope this helps. If I can be of further assistance just ask.

Ultreya,
Joe