The Valcarlos Route

[Rob C]

Hi, I suppose my greatest fear was Day 1, crossing over the Pyrenees, so I have decided to go via Valcarlos, I know I will miss out some amazing scenery but not being a seasoned hiker, I feel this is the right thing to do, even though I am aware the last part of this journey is quite strenuous. I smoke, not a lot, but enough to get out of breath on ascents, although I can, and have done of late, 5 to 6 kms over reasonable terrain feeling relatively good, I don't want to burn out so early. Has anybody had difficulty doing the Valcarlos route and is there any other ascents I need to be aware of along the way? Many thanks to my heroes who have completed the Comino.

 

[L Squared]

Good move going Valcarlos route. I also was planning to go that route but at the last minute was convinced to go Napolean. Luckily I got a reservation at Orrison. I'm 60 and not fit and everyone passed me. Took me 4.5 hours to get to Orrison and the following day 8.5 hours to get to Roncessvaĺle. There were high winds, snow on the trail, a hail storm and the last 2 km a lightning storm with rain. The route is very steep and it is both very steep going up as well as down. Very hard on the knees. Trekking poles are a must have item.

 

[mspath]

Hi, I suppose my greatest fear was Day 1, crossing over the Pyrenees, so I have decided to go via Valcarlos, I know I will miss out some amazing scenery but not being a seasoned hiker, I feel this is the right thing to do, even though I am aware the last part of this journey is quite strenuous. I smoke, not a lot, but enough to get out of breath on ascents, although I can, and have done of late, 5 to 6 kms over reasonable terrain feeling relatively good, I don't want to burn out so early. Has anybody had difficulty doing the Valcarlos route and is there any other ascents I need to be aware of along the way? Many thanks to my heroes who have completed the Comino.

I have walked the Valcarlos route 10 times over the past years and in all types of weather. The only difficulty is at the last rise just before the Ibaneta pass ; there it is actually steeper than the Napoleon route! Just take your time and all will be well. However do remember that after the town of Valcarlos there are no services and no water on this route until you arrive at the Roncesvalles monastery. Be prepared!

Buen camino!

 

[CaminoCruiser]

I don't think you'll be disappointed with the scenery of the Valcarlos route. It may not be the Napoleon but I thought it was stunning. Heed Margaret's advice, as I did, and you will be fine.

 

[Deleted member 22638]

I walked the Valcaros route in 2013 and Napoleon a few weeks ago. In my opinion the climb to Rocesvalless via the Valcaros route is as hard as the climb to Orisson. ( For me really hard) The walk from Orisson to Roncesvalless is not as hard but coming after the Orisson climb makes for a tough 1 day or strenuous 2 day start to Camino

 

[Mark Lee]

I have walked the Valcarlos route 10 times over the past years and in all types of weather. The only difficulty is at the last rise just before the Ibaneta pass ; there it is actually steeper than the Napoleon route! Just take your time and all will be well. However do remember that after the town of Valcarlos there are no services and no water on this route until you arrive at the Roncesvalles monastery. Be prepared!

Buen camino!

Yes, it is steep. I took the ValCarlos route on my first Camino. I found that little stretch to be more difficult than anything on the Napoleon route which I took on my second Camino.
I found out about the services and water bit the hard way on my first Camino. I only brought 1-1/2 liters of water and a sandwich for the day's walk. By 12:00 pm I was extremely hungry and past ValCarlos. Really hungry when I got to Roncesvalles and they don't have any shops with snacks so I had to wait until dinner to eat. Since it was July I burned through the water pretty quick too while I was walking.
Bring an extra 1/2 liter of water and some snacks to get you through the day's walk.

 

[naplesdon]

Yes, it is steep. I took the ValCarlos route on my first Camino. I found that little stretch to be more difficult than anything on the Napoleon route which I took on my second Camino.
I found out about the services and water bit the hard way on my first Camino. I only brought 1-1/2 liters of water and a sandwich for the day's walk. By 12:00 pm I was extremely hungry and past ValCarlos. Really hungry when I got to Roncesvalles and they don't have any shops with snacks so I had to wait until dinner to eat. Since it was July I burned through the water pretty quick too while I was walking.
Bring an extra 1/2 liter of water and some snacks to get you through the day's walk.

Oh, Mark it is so much easier in my Mini Cooper on the way to Pamplona.

 

[Rob C]

I have walked the Valcarlos route 10 times over the past years and in all types of weather. The only difficulty is at the last rise just before the Ibaneta pass ; there it is actually steeper than the Napoleon route! Just take your time and all will be well. However do remember that after the town of Valcarlos there are no services and no water on this route until you arrive at the Roncesvalles monastery. Be prepared!

Buen camino!

Thank you so much for

Good move going Valcarlos route. I also was planning to go that route but at the last minute was convinced to go Napolean. Luckily I got a reservation at Orrison. I'm 60 and not fit and everyone passed me. Took me 4.5 hours to get to Orrison and the following day 8.5 hours to get to Roncessvaĺle. There were high winds, snow on the trail, a hail storm and the last 2 km a lightning storm with rain. The route is very steep and it is both very steep going up as well as down. Very hard on the knees. Trekking poles are a must have item.

Many thanks for your advice. Sounds like you hit some atrocious weather on your first day, that must have been really tough. Thankfully I had the good sense to aquire poles early and I din't think I could do without them now. I treated myself to a pair of Leki Khumba's after using some cheap ones I bought of the market for a couple of pound, I love them and feel quite confident having them on climbs and ascents.

 

[Rob C]

I don't think you'll be disappointed with the scenery of the Valcarlos route. It may not be the Napoleon but I thought it was stunning. Heed Margaret's advice, as I did, and you will be fine.

Thank you, that's really good to know that the scenery is pleasant along that route. I'm sorry, but I can't find Margaret's advice?

 

[Rob C]

I have walked the Valcarlos route 10 times over the past years and in all types of weather. The only difficulty is at the last rise just before the Ibaneta pass ; there it is actually steeper than the Napoleon route! Just take your time and all will be well. However do remember that after the town of Valcarlos there are no services and no water on this route until you arrive at the Roncesvalles monastery. Be prepared!

Buen camino!

Very useful advice, thank you. I will ensure now that my preparation is adequate for this route after Valcarlos. I have the book by John Brierley and he say's that this route is just as strenuous, hearing that's the final bit is actually steeper has made me think twice about maybe tackling the Napoleon route?

 

[Mark Lee]

Oh, Mark it is so much easier in my Mini Cooper on the way to Pamplona.

Ha ha...no doubt.
And that pilgrim's meal I had in Roncevalles was kinda pinche. A small, baked trout, some greasy fries (chips), a salad, and some bread and wine. Not nearly enough to feed the machine, ha ha. The next morning I hightailed it to Burguete to get something to eat, and on my second Camino I bypassed Roncevalles and stayed in Burguete that first night.

 

[Rob C]

I walked the Valcaros route in 2013 and Napoleon a few weeks ago. In my opinion the climb to Rocesvalless via the Valcaros route is as hard as the climb to Orisson. ( For me really hard) The walk from Orisson to Roncesvalless is not as hard but coming after the Orisson climb makes for a tough 1 day or strenuous 2 day start to Camino

Many thanks for giving me a comparison, that is really helpful. Unfortunately, I am on a time frame so I really have to look at getting to Roncesvalles in one day, the difficulty I guess is the climb is at the end of the day's journey, a time when you tend to naturally slow up, you've given me much to think about, thank you again.

 

[Rob C]

Yes, it is steep. I took the ValCarlos route on my first Camino. I found that little stretch to be more difficult than anything on the Napoleon route which I took on my second Camino.
I found out about the services and water bit the hard way on my first Camino. I only brought 1-1/2 liters of water and a sandwich for the day's walk. By 12:00 pm I was extremely hungry and past ValCarlos. Really hungry when I got to Roncesvalles and they don't have any shops with snacks so I had to wait until dinner to eat. Since it was July I burned through the water pretty quick too while I was walking.
Bring an extra 1/2 liter of water and some snacks to get you through the day's walk.

Thank you for your reply. This final stretch seems to be a real challenge, your post has certainly made me think about sufficient food and water, I guess being hungry is something you can do without when your trying to concentrate on the task ahead. As I'm going in a few days I'm assuming cooler weather than July, but my sensible side is saying "prepare for the unexpected".

 

[Icacos]

We left Valcarlos shortly after 11:00 and immediately encountered pilgrims passing through who had left SJPP at 6:00 that morning. We all finished walking on the road in a blinding blizzard. I was in awe of those who had done SJPP to Roncesvalles in one stretch.

 

[Mark Lee]

Many thanks for giving me a comparison, that is really helpful. Unfortunately, I am on a time frame so I really have to look at getting to Roncesvalles in one day, the difficulty I guess is the climb is at the end of the day's journey, a time when you tend to naturally slow up, you've given me much to think about, thank you again.

Start early out of SJPdP. Take the ValCarlos. Take your time. Bring water and snacks and take a break in ValCarlos. That last steep stretch is the hardest, but plenty doable.

 

[Rob C]

We left Valcarlos shortly after 11:00 and immediately encountered pilgrims passing through who had left SJPP at 6:00 that morning. We all finished walking on the road in a blinding blizzard. I was in awe of those who had done SJPP to Roncesvalles in one stretch.

Wow, there's a real message there for me, more than 5 hours to get to Valcarlos from SJPP and then to encounter a blizzard, I suppose the Napoleon route would have been closed in these conditions? what time of year did you go?

 

[Rob C]

Start early out of SJPdP. Take the ValCarlos. Take your time. Bring water and snacks and take a break in ValCarlos. That last steep stretch is the hardest, but plenty doable.

Thank you Mark, I so much like that word 'doable'. I think you've hit the nail on the head by suggesting I leave early, I think that would take the pressure off tremendously, allowing myself time for a coffee and energy snack, I think then I can go at my own pace through the last stretch without rushing, much less stressful.

 

[Icacos]

Wow, there's a real message there for me, more than 5 hours to get to Valcarlos from SJPP and then to encounter a blizzard, I suppose the Napoleon route would have been closed in these conditions? what time of year did you go?

I think we were in Valcarlos April 6 or 7, and yes, the Napoleon was definitely off limits at that time. As @Mark Lee suggests, bring water and snacks and you will be fine. And stop to rest and recoup often. Buen Camino.

 

[Rob C]

I think we were in Valcarlos April 6 or 7, and yes, the Napoleon was definitely off limits at that time. As @Mark Lee suggests, bring water and snacks and you will be fine. And stop to rest and recoup often. Buen Camino.

Thank you Icacos, the weather in that region, indeed I think Northern Spain from what I can make out is very unpredictable. I will certainly take on board what Mark said about water and snacks and your advice on recouping often, try and listen to what my body is telling me.

 

[Mark Lee]

Thank you Icacos, the weather in that region, indeed I think Northern Spain from what I can make out is very unpredictable. I will certainly take on board what Mark said about water and snacks and your advice on recouping often, try and listen to what my body is telling me.

Check out my media posted on this forum. I've got some photos of the ValCarlos route when I walked it in July of 2013. It was a beautiful sunny day.

 

[VNwalking]

I started March 10...only option was Valcarlos. I was surprised to find it gorgeous. Not so much for sweeping views but the mossy beech forest, the streams, the little villages and the steadily opening Vista at the top. It was sublime.
And yes.That pull up to the road before Ibaneta was steep. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Including stops it was 9 hours total for me from SJPP, and I'm almost 60 and not super-fit. So definitely doable! I found the descent into Zubiri much more trying.
Weather can be anything. I had sun and balmy temps, but 3 days later it was snowing.

 

[CaminoCruiser]

Thank you, that's really good to know that the scenery is pleasant along that route. I'm sorry, but I can't find Margaret's advice?

I'm sorry Rob, I should have said heed mspath's advice. She replied to your post earlier.

Buen Camino!

 

[Rob C]

Check out my media posted on this forum. I've got some photos of the ValCarlos route when I walked it in July of 2013. It was a beautiful sunny day.

Fabulous photo's, loved them. Thank you Mark

 

[Rob C]

I'm sorry Rob, I should have said heed mspath's advice. She replied to your post earlier.

Buen Camino!

That's fine, no need to apologise, I was just wondering who Margaret was? : D

 

[Rob C]

I started March 10...only option was Valcarlos. I was surprised to find it gorgeous. Not so much for sweeping views but the mossy beech forest, the streams, the little villages and the steadily opening Vista at the top. It was sublime.
And yes.That pull up to the road before Ibaneta was steep. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Including stops it was 9 hours total for me from SJPP, and I'm almost 60 and not super-fit. So definitely doable! I found the descent into Zubiri much more trying.
Weather can be anything. I had sun and balmy temps, but 3 days later it was snowing.

Thanks Viranani, that's really nice to hear. To be honest I am more a forest man than a mountain man so I think I can live with not doing the Napoleon route, at least on this occasion, maybe another time when I build some more stamina. The last part of the the journey seems to be a challenging one, but as you say, i'll take my time, I have to remind myself it's not a race, and thankfully, I'm not the competitive type, if my fellow pilgrims want to pass me, that's fine. My hat is truly off to you for completing the entire journey in one go, I've been informed how difficult that can be, you being 60 and not super fit has given me a confidence that this is 'doable', I love that word, it's my 'word of the month'. I really don't know how you can prepare for the weather that Northern Spain throws at you? I guess you have to take each day as it comes, I'm certainly prepared for rain, but snow, mmmm. Again, thank you for your inspiration.

 

[Wiebmer]

Hi, I suppose my greatest fear was Day 1, crossing over the Pyrenees, so I have decided to go via Valcarlos, I know I will miss out some amazing scenery but not being a seasoned hiker, I feel this is the right thing to do, even though I am aware the last part of this journey is quite strenuous. I smoke, not a lot, but enough to get out of breath on ascents, although I can, and have done of late, 5 to 6 kms over reasonable terrain feeling relatively good, I don't want to burn out so early. Has anybody had difficulty doing the Valcarlos route and is there any other ascents I need to be aware of along the way? Many thanks to my heroes who have completed the Comino.

Valcarlos is lovely -- and remember, you are still in the Pyrenees! It is not easy...lovely, but a lot of fairly steep up and down hills. We've heard a lot about the bad weather on the Napoleon Route as well.

You're going to do great! If I can do it, you can, too! N

 

[VNwalking]

Until Valcarlos the way is pretty mellow. The steepness begins in earnest after that. So if you're tired when you get there, take your boots off for the day and enjoy the quiet.
Weather? You just prepare and go out the door each AM, dealing with it the best you can, understanding that discomfort is part of the package and won't kill you. But also knowing your limits too and staying safe. Confession time: I took a taxi around the alto after Atapuerca...I was already past merely cold with a bum ankle...and it was a degree above freezing and sleeting sideways in a howling wind. I probably would have been OK, but chose to play it safe rather than get hypothermia creeping painfully down the hill. Walking into Burgos after that was not at all pleasant but with the steep and possibly dangerous descent out of the way I could relax into the simple discomfort. You'll know your edge and it's not a mortal sin to not go past it....

 

[grayland]

I have done both routes with challenging weather including snow and sleet.

Neither is nearly as bad as they seem to be portrayed in our posts. The really tough part is that it is the first day and most newer folk are greatly overloaded and under fit.
Thousands do it every week. Most without stopping in Orisson or Valcarlos.
Many in their 70's and 80's. They make to Roncesvalles with pride and the confidence that they can make the remainder of the way.

We often make it seem like a walk through hell...it is hard and often uncomfortable but very "doable" by most people.