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Just returned from Primitivo - our route and places we stayed

Cheryl Schmidt

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Camino Primitivo (May 2015)
Just finished the Primitivo, and it was the experience of a lifetime! I thought I would share our experiences as it may give some guidance. Before going through the stages, a couple of general things:

1. Food can be a real difficulty. In the smaller places, bars serve lunch from 2-4, and dinner starts at 8, and there is little or no food available inbetween. We resorted to consuming bags of chips, or, on better days, often stopping at grocery stores to buy our own lunch.
2. In many places you don't need to book, but with the Primitivo getting more crowded, it is required at times, which I've noted below. You can usually get someone to call ahead the night before to book for you if you don't want to absolutely commit ahead of time to the stages.
3. One of the absolute best things about the Primitivo is the fact that there are fewer people, so we got to know a core group of about 25 people that were travelling at the same time we did. And while we stayed in hotels some nights, the albergues were wonderful places to further those friendships.
4. Our stages are fairly ambitious - for the most part we are fit women in our 50's, but certainly not tri-athletes or anything. We were tired each day, but didn't find it too much.

Day 1 - San Juan De Villepanda - 29.5 km. this is a long day for Day 1, and the last 5 km is a real grind uphill. However, we were happy to have gotten that behind us, and this albergue is a real treasure. There is no "official" food, but Domingo, the host, is extremely welcoming and friendly and was soon cooking spaghetti, hauling out sauce, making us tea.... what a wonderful start to our trek! The next morning there is no food for about 10 km - while there is a sign advertising food only 1 km away, that bar was closed when we went by.

Day 2 - Bodenaya - 24.5 km - Albergue de Peregrines. The renowned Alex has left, but David has taken his place, and is also a warm and welcoming host. A community meal is included in the price, and was wonderful salad and lentil soup. The beds are somewhat crowded, but all clean and comfortable. Definitely a highlight. Light breakfast included as well.

Day 3 - Campiella Casa Hermila - 24.5 km. Here you have the option of Albergue, breakfast, and finner for 23 E, or a private room with private bathroom for 70 E. Since we were 4 people, we paid the little extra and took 2 private rooms. Dinner was wonderful, way more than we could eat, and served communally. Breakfast was not until 7:30 - most of us were long gone by then so just skipped it. there is a grocery store however where you can stock up for the day.

Day 4 - Berducedo - 27 km. We were blessed with good weather, so did the Hospitales route. I can see why it is not advised in bad weather - even with clear skies it was very windy and blustery. But what views! This is a very hard day, and Berducedo has limited beds. I would strongly advise reserving at the private albergue - we arrived around 2 pm and got some of the last beds. There is a bus that will take you from here to the next town, and then come back in the morning. However, if you choose to walk to the next town it's a fairly easy walk.

Day 5 - Grandas de Salime - 20 km. After a hard Day 4, we needed a short day today. However, this is also a difficult day, with lots of downhill. The municipal albergue is very nice - you can't reserve, but should get a bed if you get there at a reasonable time. There is one room with only 4 beds - being a group of 4 we hustled to get there early and were able to get this room. Great kitchen and common area.

Day 6 - Fonsagrada - 25 km - OS Chaos - a private albergue - you can reserve - some small, private rooms - very nice and clean.

Day 7 - Baleira - 24 km - we treated ourselves and stayed in the hotel.

Day 8 - Lugo - 30.5 km. This is a long day, but fairly easy walking. Many accommodation places, but a good idea to reserve. We stayed in "Hostel Alba" - right on the Camino route, just inside the old roman walls. Wonderful city to spend a day in if you want a rest day.

Day 9 - Fereirre - 27 km. - Albergue Ponte Ferreira - private, a little more expensive, but includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was communal and was some of the best paella I had in Spain. Would highly recommend as a stopping place.

Day 10 - Boente - 26 km. There is a "albergue Boente" here - we booked ahead as there are now many, many people on the trail as you have merged with the Frances.

Day 11 - Pedrouza - 25 km - stayed in non descript place - there are many places available, and likely not an issue finding a bed.

Day 12 - Santiago - 20 km - arrived in plenty of time for the noon mass.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Wow, you are all into serious walking, averaging 25.5 kms a day! Thank you for the information, Cheryl. We hope to ride the Primitivo next year (2016), and looking for anything that helps us to plan. We rode from st John Pied de Port in 2013 so want to do this route next. we will be walking from sjpdp to Pamplona this year, but are definitely more into cycling, intending to ride through France first this time.
 
There is a young couple, Alicia and Max, who are crowdfunding right now (at 60% right now) to build an eco-friendly albergue close to Oviedo) on the Primitivo. They have a house and plans were to start the work this May. I don't know if it will be ready for the summer or not, but it will be one more place to stay! Casita Mandala is it's name. :)
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Is it possible to walk the Camino primitivo in 10 days? By that, I mean, are there ample accommodation options?
 
Yes, on most of the days and stops listed above there would be another stop say 5 km down the road - so you could do a few more longer days and make it work.
 
C how was your weather?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Is it possible to walk the Camino primitivo in 10 days? By that, I mean, are there ample accommodation options?
You should look at this carefully. there are not as many albergues and although new ones spring up all the time, there are long stretches on the Primitivo with no place to stay. Its probably doable, but I would work out your stages at least roughly in advance! Liz
 
C how was your weather?
We had great weather - got "spit" on a couple of days, which stopped as soon as we put on all our rain gear! Other days around 15 C - a little cool if you were just sitting outside, but great hiking temperature.
 
Just finished the Primitivo, and it was the experience of a lifetime!

.................

Day 9 - Fereirre - 27 km. - Albergue Ponte Ferreira - private, a little more expensive, but includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was communal and was some of the best paella I had in Spain. Would highly recommend as a stopping place.

.................

Hello Cheryl! I remember you and your 3 friends! ;) Thank you for your nice comment about our albergue!
As we usually say: yes, we are a bit more expensive for the night (11€ instead of 10€, which is what most albergues charge), but we think the difference is worth it: it's a nicely restored house in a wonderful, quiet location.

All the best, and regards to your friends as well! Buen Camino!,
 
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Is it possible to walk the Camino primitivo in 10 days? By that, I mean, are there ample accommodation options?
You could follow Cheryl's itinerary, but instead of staying in Casa Hermina go the extra 5km and stay in Borres.Then the next day go for Le Mesa after the hospitales route its about 7km on from Berducedo, the day after that would be your 1st day where you lose a day, you continue on to Fonsgrada((40km), I know a couple of people who did that. From Lugo instead of doing it in 4 days to Santiago do it in 3. You could stay at Ponte Ferreira and then really go for it on the next two days which would mostly be on the Frances.

The advantage of staying in Fonsgrada is that you can book ahead, two private albergues, I stayed in Cantbrico which has individual rooms 25 for an individual and 40 for a couple.
 
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I'll look at that option Mike. Just ordered the newer Cicerone guide. Plan to walk Camino Frances to Leon, then the Salvador route to Oviedo. Primitivo thereafter to Arzua. Only got 33 days so need to up the pace where possible.
 
Try to fit in a day off in Oviedo, you will need it after the Salvador. The city itself has a relaxed feel and lots to see.
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
I begin from Portugalette this Wednesday so appreciate all these comments. I plan to walk the Norte until Gijon then cut across to Oviedo and walk the Primitivo. It then means that I can fly another year to Asturias airport and continue from Aviles on the Norte. I have 25 days which means I should get time in Gijon and Oviedo and maybe get to Ferrol after Santiago as I have already walked to Muxia and Fisterra. Can't wait to get going again. Must say though that I somewhat dread the Frances after many years on it!
 
Just finished the Primitivo, and it was the experience of a lifetime! I thought I would share our experiences as it may give some guidance. Before going through the stages, a couple of general things:

1. Food can be a real difficulty. In the smaller places, bars serve lunch from 2-4, and dinner starts at 8, and there is little or no food available inbetween. We resorted to consuming bags of chips, or, on better days, often stopping at grocery stores to buy our own lunch.
2. In many places you don't need to book, but with the Primitivo getting more crowded, it is required at times, which I've noted below. You can usually get someone to call ahead the night before to book for you if you don't want to absolutely commit ahead of time to the stages.
3. One of the absolute best things about the Primitivo is the fact that there are fewer people, so we got to know a core group of about 25 people that were travelling at the same time we did. And while we stayed in hotels some nights, the albergues were wonderful places to further those friendships.
4. Our stages are fairly ambitious - for the most part we are fit women in our 50's, but certainly not tri-athletes or anything. We were tired each day, but didn't find it too much.

Day 1 - San Juan De Villepanda - 29.5 km. this is a long day for Day 1, and the last 5 km is a real grind uphill. However, we were happy to have gotten that behind us, and this albergue is a real treasure. There is no "official" food, but Domingo, the host, is extremely welcoming and friendly and was soon cooking spaghetti, hauling out sauce, making us tea.... what a wonderful start to our trek! The next morning there is no food for about 10 km - while there is a sign advertising food only 1 km away, that bar was closed when we went by.

Day 2 - Bodenaya - 24.5 km - Albergue de Peregrines. The renowned Alex has left, but David has taken his place, and is also a warm and welcoming host. A community meal is included in the price, and was wonderful salad and lentil soup. The beds are somewhat crowded, but all clean and comfortable. Definitely a highlight. Light breakfast included as well.

Day 3 - Campiella Casa Hermila - 24.5 km. Here you have the option of Albergue, breakfast, and finner for 23 E, or a private room with private bathroom for 70 E. Since we were 4 people, we paid the little extra and took 2 private rooms. Dinner was wonderful, way more than we could eat, and served communally. Breakfast was not until 7:30 - most of us were long gone by then so just skipped it. there is a grocery store however where you can stock up for the day.

Day 4 - Berducedo - 27 km. We were blessed with good weather, so did the Hospitales route. I can see why it is not advised in bad weather - even with clear skies it was very windy and blustery. But what views! This is a very hard day, and Berducedo has limited beds. I would strongly advise reserving at the private albergue - we arrived around 2 pm and got some of the last beds. There is a bus that will take you from here to the next town, and then come back in the morning. However, if you choose to walk to the next town it's a fairly easy walk.

Day 5 - Grandas de Salime - 20 km. After a hard Day 4, we needed a short day today. However, this is also a difficult day, with lots of downhill. The municipal albergue is very nice - you can't reserve, but should get a bed if you get there at a reasonable time. There is one room with only 4 beds - being a group of 4 we hustled to get there early and were able to get this room. Great kitchen and common area.

Day 6 - Fonsagrada - 25 km - OS Chaos - a private albergue - you can reserve - some small, private rooms - very nice and clean.

Day 7 - Baleira - 24 km - we treated ourselves and stayed in the hotel.

Day 8 - Lugo - 30.5 km. This is a long day, but fairly easy walking. Many accommodation places, but a good idea to reserve. We stayed in "Hostel Alba" - right on the Camino route, just inside the old roman walls. Wonderful city to spend a day in if you want a rest day.

Day 9 - Fereirre - 27 km. - Albergue Ponte Ferreira - private, a little more expensive, but includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was communal and was some of the best paella I had in Spain. Would highly recommend as a stopping place.

Day 10 - Boente - 26 km. There is a "albergue Boente" here - we booked ahead as there are now many, many people on the trail as you have merged with the Frances.

Day 11 - Pedrouza - 25 km - stayed in non descript place - there are many places available, and likely not an issue finding a bed.

Day 12 - Santiago - 20 km - arrived in plenty of time for the noon mass.

Thank you. Clear and great spelling! Much appreciated and now noted.
 
Just finished the Primitivo, and it was the experience of a lifetime! I thought I would share our experiences as it may give some guidance. Before going through the stages, a couple of general things:

1. Food can be a real difficulty. In the smaller places, bars serve lunch from 2-4, and dinner starts at 8, and there is little or no food available inbetween. We resorted to consuming bags of chips, or, on better days, often stopping at grocery stores to buy our own lunch.
2. In many places you don't need to book, but with the Primitivo getting more crowded, it is required at times, which I've noted below. You can usually get someone to call ahead the night before to book for you if you don't want to absolutely commit ahead of time to the stages.
3. One of the absolute best things about the Primitivo is the fact that there are fewer people, so we got to know a core group of about 25 people that were travelling at the same time we did. And while we stayed in hotels some nights, the albergues were wonderful places to further those friendships.
4. Our stages are fairly ambitious - for the most part we are fit women in our 50's, but certainly not tri-athletes or anything. We were tired each day, but didn't find it too much.

Day 1 - San Juan De Villepanda - 29.5 km. this is a long day for Day 1, and the last 5 km is a real grind uphill. However, we were happy to have gotten that behind us, and this albergue is a real treasure. There is no "official" food, but Domingo, the host, is extremely welcoming and friendly and was soon cooking spaghetti, hauling out sauce, making us tea.... what a wonderful start to our trek! The next morning there is no food for about 10 km - while there is a sign advertising food only 1 km away, that bar was closed when we went by.

Day 2 - Bodenaya - 24.5 km - Albergue de Peregrines. The renowned Alex has left, but David has taken his place, and is also a warm and welcoming host. A community meal is included in the price, and was wonderful salad and lentil soup. The beds are somewhat crowded, but all clean and comfortable. Definitely a highlight. Light breakfast included as well.

Day 3 - Campiella Casa Hermila - 24.5 km. Here you have the option of Albergue, breakfast, and finner for 23 E, or a private room with private bathroom for 70 E. Since we were 4 people, we paid the little extra and took 2 private rooms. Dinner was wonderful, way more than we could eat, and served communally. Breakfast was not until 7:30 - most of us were long gone by then so just skipped it. there is a grocery store however where you can stock up for the day.

Day 4 - Berducedo - 27 km. We were blessed with good weather, so did the Hospitales route. I can see why it is not advised in bad weather - even with clear skies it was very windy and blustery. But what views! This is a very hard day, and Berducedo has limited beds. I would strongly advise reserving at the private albergue - we arrived around 2 pm and got some of the last beds. There is a bus that will take you from here to the next town, and then come back in the morning. However, if you choose to walk to the next town it's a fairly easy walk.

Day 5 - Grandas de Salime - 20 km. After a hard Day 4, we needed a short day today. However, this is also a difficult day, with lots of downhill. The municipal albergue is very nice - you can't reserve, but should get a bed if you get there at a reasonable time. There is one room with only 4 beds - being a group of 4 we hustled to get there early and were able to get this room. Great kitchen and common area.

Day 6 - Fonsagrada - 25 km - OS Chaos - a private albergue - you can reserve - some small, private rooms - very nice and clean.

Day 7 - Baleira - 24 km - we treated ourselves and stayed in the hotel.

Day 8 - Lugo - 30.5 km. This is a long day, but fairly easy walking. Many accommodation places, but a good idea to reserve. We stayed in "Hostel Alba" - right on the Camino route, just inside the old roman walls. Wonderful city to spend a day in if you want a rest day.

Day 9 - Fereirre - 27 km. - Albergue Ponte Ferreira - private, a little more expensive, but includes dinner and breakfast. Dinner was communal and was some of the best paella I had in Spain. Would highly recommend as a stopping place.

Day 10 - Boente - 26 km. There is a "albergue Boente" here - we booked ahead as there are now many, many people on the trail as you have merged with the Frances.

Day 11 - Pedrouza - 25 km - stayed in non descript place - there are many places available, and likely not an issue finding a bed.

Day 12 - Santiago - 20 km - arrived in plenty of time for the noon mass.
Hello Cheryl! :)
Thank you for sharing this!
I did have a few questions, hope you don't mind:D
What time did you normally start walking in the morning?
How many hours did you average daily on the road?
 
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This is a definite contender for next year. Am just writing up my diary of this year's Ruta del Ebro which WAS remote! Would like a few more peregrinos. However, 20 kms is my maximum and I sometimes only walk 10 which gives me time to smell the roses ... will check out the route in detail.
Thanks for all the information, and ...
Buen camino!
 

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