Ramblanista
Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camino Frances & Finisterre (2012); Ruta del Ebro (Tortosa to Sastago) (2014); Camino del Norte (Santander - Serdio) (2014); Camino Liebana & Camino Vadiniense (2014); Camino San Salvador (2015); Camino Olvidado (Sodupe - Reinosa) (2015); Camino del Norte (Irun - Deba & Serdio - Llanes) (2015)
Well, I finally made it to Tortosa late Saturday afternoon, having somehow managed to jump on a train from Paris Gare du Lyon to Perpignan when most inter-city trains - including my booked intercities de nuit service to Latour du Carol - had been cancelled.
Day one was a rather mad dash up the disused railway line (Via Verda/Via Verde) to Benafillet. It was only when I arrived at the old Benafillet station that I realised that Benafillet itself, where I'd booked a room in the Hotel Pepo (recommended though it's an enormous detour) was 5km off trail. I arrived just before it got dark, a long trek along a main road to the bridge that crosses the Ebro and from which leads a road to the town. You have to go past Benafillet to the bridge then double back on yourself. Very, very frustrating. The pension at old Benafillet station was closed.
Day two started with a 5km trek back to the old station (refreshments) then continued on the old railway line to the santuario of Fontcalda. From there the ascent out of the valley had spectacular views but was a killer. Good, cheap hotel in Gandesa - Hotel Pique.
Day three was going to be a 'gentle' 14 km stroll from Gandesa to Batea but I came across signposting 'issues'. More on these later: it could be that they might have been exacerbated by my straying from the path, suffice to say that the 'official' sign - and there are plenty of these - in Gandesa indicated that Batea was only 13 km away. After walking about 5km out of town I came across an 'official' sign showing Batea was now 18 km away! Seems there's an optional route over asphalt roads via Vilaba dels Arcs which takes you off in an enormous arc. I followed my gut instinctfor 2 km, doubted it and retraced my steps, managed to call up a rough map on my IPhone and decided gut instinct was right and re-traced my steps! A farmer confirmed I was on the correct path and I finally made to Batea. Good hotel - Hostal de l'Anton - 35 Euro for pleasant room with ensuite, not mad on local bars though.
Tomorrow Fabara. 17km, have booked room in advance - 20 Euro with breakfast.
Day one was a rather mad dash up the disused railway line (Via Verda/Via Verde) to Benafillet. It was only when I arrived at the old Benafillet station that I realised that Benafillet itself, where I'd booked a room in the Hotel Pepo (recommended though it's an enormous detour) was 5km off trail. I arrived just before it got dark, a long trek along a main road to the bridge that crosses the Ebro and from which leads a road to the town. You have to go past Benafillet to the bridge then double back on yourself. Very, very frustrating. The pension at old Benafillet station was closed.
Day two started with a 5km trek back to the old station (refreshments) then continued on the old railway line to the santuario of Fontcalda. From there the ascent out of the valley had spectacular views but was a killer. Good, cheap hotel in Gandesa - Hotel Pique.
Day three was going to be a 'gentle' 14 km stroll from Gandesa to Batea but I came across signposting 'issues'. More on these later: it could be that they might have been exacerbated by my straying from the path, suffice to say that the 'official' sign - and there are plenty of these - in Gandesa indicated that Batea was only 13 km away. After walking about 5km out of town I came across an 'official' sign showing Batea was now 18 km away! Seems there's an optional route over asphalt roads via Vilaba dels Arcs which takes you off in an enormous arc. I followed my gut instinctfor 2 km, doubted it and retraced my steps, managed to call up a rough map on my IPhone and decided gut instinct was right and re-traced my steps! A farmer confirmed I was on the correct path and I finally made to Batea. Good hotel - Hostal de l'Anton - 35 Euro for pleasant room with ensuite, not mad on local bars though.
Tomorrow Fabara. 17km, have booked room in advance - 20 Euro with breakfast.
