Join me on a virtual camino walk this summer?

[dougfitz]

@ dougfitz Good luck with your race walk.

Thank you. There was a 20 mile and a 10 mile event. I managed to finish the 10 mile just before the first walkers completed the 20 mile! I wasn't quite the last to finish - there were a couple of walkers after me, but I was happy enough with not being further up the field.

So that has gotten me to Vioria de la Rioja, I will have a break and then decide whether to push on or stay here and have a little wander around the village.

 

[nidarosa]

Larrasoana at last! The weather has been gorgeous and the walk short and sweet with no ill effects. Let's see where I end up tomorrow! And now for a tapas meal for my birthday... :-D

 

[Griffin57]

Hi nidarosa! Welcome back and Happy birthday!
I'm quite the way ahead now, seems like ages ago since we shared that meal in Orisson! I have been able to take advantage of no actual work this week and now reached Logrono. Walked through last time and pleased to be spending time in new places. In the parochial alberge, communal dinner, looking for simplicity at the moment, maybe luxury later??
Hope your tapas are wonderful and you are having a truly great Birthday!
Sarah x

 

[dougfitz]

Well, I decided to push on a bit last night, and stayed at Vilamayor del Rio. I avoided doing a big day that some friends had planned, and opted for a quieter and shorter walk, but enough to get to Villafranca Montes de Oca.

 

[Griffin57]

Navarette...... El Cantaro...........couldn't help myself a fairly cheap private room in a shared apartment with ................ a bathtub!!! Oh the joy of soaking my tired feet in scalding hot water ...... bliss!

 

[dougfitz]

Last night I reached St Juan de Ortega, and today I have walked to the outskirts of Burgos at Castanares. I remember the other, more northerly route through Villafria being a pretty tough slog into the the area of the cathedral, but I am told that it is possible to walk in the gardens along the river from Castanares. So I am having a coffee, and will make up my mind shortly about whether to catch the bus or walk in along the river bank.

 

[C clearly]

I am jealous of you guys on your virtual caminos. I was away for a month and had limited time/access/inclination to embark on a journey with you. Now I'm home and thinking I should start one.

Doug Fitz - If you haven't left Castanares yet, you really should try the river route. I have some detailed directions on my blog at http://tritetales.com/2014/10/31/camino-how-to-enter-burgos/. Even so, it is a long slog if done at the end of the day. That gives me the idea of hopping on a space ship and parachuting into Castanares, where I could direct pilgrim traffic from the main intersection.

 

[Griffin57]

Hi C clearly! I think just like the actual camino you can jump in any time, any place? We are simply documenting actual miles/kilometres that we are walking at home as if we were on Camino.
Yesterday I reached Ventosa and today Najera, can't do the mileage like last week as have had to return to ......... work!!! So I will be strolling from village to village and may be forced to camp out occasionally until I reach some more days off.
Buen 'virtual' Camino to anyone that wants to join us.
Sarah

 

[nidarosa]

I am frantically translating in the shade in the beautiful enclosed garden in the albergue in Trinidad de Arre, one of my favourites - they even have beer in the vending machine! I now have a new deadline to relate to but will attempt to get some Ks in before or after work in this lovely weather. And yes, anyone can jump in and join at their own pace and pick their own albergues (or even make one up, I suppose!). The more the merrier!

 

[dougfitz]

I have some detailed directions on my blog at http://tritetales.com/2014/10/31/camino-how-to-enter-burgos/.

Thank you for that tip, and the description of the route. I have now reached Burgos, and need to work out whether I am going to spend today exploring the city, or push on after visiting the cathedral. I think a rest day might do me good.

 

[C clearly]

All right, I did it! I threw together my camino gear, which is always ready and waiting. There are not many flights into Burgos airport, but I managed to find one. On arrival, I went in circles trying to find my way out, and ended up on the wrong side of the airport at Villafria, on the worst of the 3 approaches to Burgos. I'm presently at the Domus Buenos Aires Hotel, which is in a good location for travellers with a car as it is on the main road into Burgos with free parking. However, that's not exactly what I was looking for and I haven't seen any other pilgrims here. At least I hope to get some rest in a private room - I just came home from Europe 2 days ago in real life, so I'm very tired with this sudden return. 4 km was enough for me today.

 

[dougfitz]

Welcome @C clearly, and I hope you enjoy your virtual camino as much as I am so far. It has been great to reflect on the choices that I made when I walked the CF in 2010, and imagine how it would appear now.

Yesterday I had a slow day n Burgos, staying in a hotel on the far side of the city so that I didn't have to trudge through the streets this morning before getting back into the countryside. My morning walk has brought me close to Villabilla, but I am pushing on towards Rabe de las Calzados now.

 

[C clearly]

Thanks for the welcome. I walked 11 km today (about 8 km more than I would have, if not for the peer pressure/inspiration of this virtual camino!)

I slept in late at the motel and decided to plow straight through the industrial route to Burgos. I don't recommend it, and probably should have gone backwards to take the river route. In Burgos, some food, a beer, and a rest outside the cathedral were enough to get me moving again. Last fall I spent an extra rest day in Burgos, so this time I just wanted to get through it and onto the Camino. Tonight, a private room in the Hotel Abadia at the outskirts of the city should get me over the jet lag and travel fatigue, and tomorrow I hope to start meeting pilgrims. If I sleep a bit late, those who leave Burgos first thing in the morning should be passing by.

 

[Griffin57]

Morning everyone, only manged to get as far as Azofra last night, in the municipal alberge which I really liked. Beds are like 2 shelves in a cupboard with chipboard walls and saloon doors! Only 2 to a room so no snorers!!! Simple facilities but everything a pilgrim needs, even a small pool outside if you need cool water to soak your feet. Pilgrims are very happy here.
No meal though had to go just round the corner into the village for reasonable Menu del Perigrino, I have discovered that the eggs in Spain taste so much better than at home? Huevos y frites for me last night. Big kitchen here for anyone who does want to cook? The Korean girls must be on a serious budget as they were on jam sandwiches, but very cheerful about it and a lovely chatty group.
Now off to try and find the detour that I didn't take last time to see the Cistercian abbey Santa Maria Abadia Cisterciense de Canas.
Happy trails, finally got some sunshine to walk in here.
Sarah

 

[C clearly]

I am determined to keep my daily distances low, since I have a persistent soreness in my left foot. I'm walking slowly, so I can chat with many people as they pass yet don't get "stuck" with anyone. It's good walking weather - cloudy and between 11 and 17 C. Last year I made a note in my Brierley's mapbook that an albergue in Tarjados looked good, and there have been some rave reviews on the forum and elsewhere for Albergue La Fabrica in Tarjados, so I decided not to go any further than 10 km. The albergue is gorgeous - I'm in a room with 3 others - and I'm looking forward to dinner. Here is their website.

 

[dougfitz]

San Bol was a great place to stay last night. The solitude and quiet was enormously calming, and the hospitalero prepared a wonderful paella. We sat around the table for an hour or so with the conversation switching from Spanish to German and then English or Dutch before doing the rounds again. This morning I have pushed on past Castrojeriz, but haven't quite made it to Itero del Castillo. It might be a long day today getting there!

 

[nidarosa]

Taking the day off in Pamplona to see the sights without sore feet like last time. Weather looks promising so will find a table on the square later to enjoy a glass of white wine, an ensalada mista and watch the pilgrims go by. In my straight-looking trousers, walking shirt and colourful scarf I probably look like a local, or at most a tourist.

 

[dougfitz]

I didn't make it to Itero del Castillo last night, but was fortunate enough to find a bed at St Nicholas. It was everything that I expected, and a wonderful stay. This morning, I have pushed on to Boadilla del Camino and I am now working out whether or not I will make it to Fromista in a reasonable time, or stay here.

 

[C clearly]

Another pleasant day strolling along to Hornillos del Camino. Stayed at Albergue El Afar, which was excellent. It is a private albergue with 20 beds; great food was served. There were a number of pilgrims from different parts of Spain, travelling separately and just getting to know each other, so I joined in and was happy to practice my Spanish. The albergue is closed from late October for the winter when the family return to their Burgos home. Apparently it is too expensive to heat when the pilgrim traffic is down. But it was definitely worth stopping here.

 

[C clearly]

was fortunate enough to find a bed at St Nicholas. It was everything that I expected, and a wonderful stay.

Unfortunately, St Nicholas was (and will likely be) closed in October, but on this virtual camino I will certainly check it out!

 

[C clearly]

Today I have left Hornillos del Camino, but I'm not sure how far to go. I would like to see San Bol, although I'm not sure it's my cup of tea for the night, and it's rather a short distance. My question now is where is the "the scruffy little donativo albergue in the ruined Monastery of San Anton de Castrojeriz" that @Rebekah Scott was helping to refurbish earlier this year. Looking at the Brierley map, I see "San Anton" 2.4 km before Castrojeriz, and I see "Monasterio (ruinas)" in the inset map of the town of Castrojeriz. Can anyone tell me where this donativo is? I would have some satisfaction in sleeping in one of those new beds. Thanks for the help.

 

[dougfitz]

San Anton is about 6 km past Hontanos, or 5 km short of Castrojeriz, and doesn't appear on the Castrojeriz inset map in my Brierley. I remember struggling past San Anton with a sore knee in 2010 and making it a short day once I reached Castrojeriz.

This morning I walked to Poblacion de Campos for an early coffee, and I am wondering whether to follow the river or the road.

 

[C clearly]

This morning I walked to Poblacion de Campos for an early coffee, and I am wondering whether to follow the river or the road.

I followed the river route in early November. It was not very interesting, especially the first part to Villovieco which follows flat farm roads, but it's probably a lot more pleasant than the main road. I saw NO other pilgrims until the bar at Villalcazar de Sirga.

 

[Griffin57]

I have finally made it to Granon and I'm going to stay here for a while, its my very favourite place on the camino. Maybe I can help out here? If I could ever contemplate being a hospitalero this is the perfect place, my Spanish is not good but I'm a nurse and I can tend to blisters and other minor injuries and I can cook even for large numbers.
I am injured, my left shoulder, and will see my doctor today, have been in denial for a while but could be facing surgery. One of the perks of being a Sister in a surgical unit is access to the best orthopaedic surgeons, he has requested x-rays and ultrasounds and we will go from there.
I am still planning to go to my actual camino in 94 days time so need to keep up my training but I don't think I will be able to use both walking poles,which is what I'm used to. Not sure whether I can just use one of the Nordic poles that I have or need to try something else? Don't even want to begin to think that maybe I shouldn't carry my pack??? I certainly can't train with it at the moment. Perhaps things will be different in 3 months time?
Buen camino
Sarah

 

[dougfitz]

I followed the river route in early November. It was not very interesting, especially the first part to Villovieco which follows flat farm roads, but it's probably a lot more pleasant than the main road. I saw NO other pilgrims until the bar at Villalcazar de Sirga.

Thanks for that advice. I had a nice quiet day, and arrived at Villasirga in plenty of time to visit Santa Maria la Blanca and do all those domestic things before heading to the bar for a meal. I suspect it will be a very quiet night.

 

[mspath]

Thanks for that advice. I had a nice quiet day, and arrived at Villasirga in plenty of time to visit Santa Maria la Blanca and do all those domestic things before heading to the bar for a meal. I suspect it will be a very quiet night.

Be sure before you leave in the morning to give a pat and a hug to the wonderful seated statue of Pablo Payo who opened the now famous Meson restaurante here circa 1965. A few years ago in winter I arrived here famished; only his Meson was open but for a private and very chic party. Long tables covered in white linen filled the room. Nevertheless I was given a seat 'below the salt' and served the same elaborate delicious meal as the elegant invitees. Since I was their 'token' pilgrim the meal was on the house! Happily sated I left 10 euros on that elegant table for the gracious staff.

 

[C clearly]

I was their 'token' pilgrim the meal was on the house!

That sounds like a fabulous treat on a winter pilgrimage.

 

[C clearly]

I am injured, my left shoulder, and will see my doctor today, have been in denial for a while
Sarah

I, too, have finally made an appointment with a podiatrist for today. It seems silly to go to a doctor and say "My foot hurts if I walk too much." The obvious response is "Stop walking too much." Let's face it: camino-distance walking can easily be considered "too much." I really just want to be assured that I don't have a stress fracture, confirm if my orthotics are appropriate, and confirm if continued training is likely to be a problem.

Rest well in Granon!

Clare

 

[Griffin57]

I, too, have finally made an appointment with a podiatrist for today. It seems silly to go to a doctor and say "My foot hurts if I walk too much." The obvious response is "Stop walking too much." Let's face it: camino-distance walking can easily be considered "too much." I really just want to be assured that I don't have a stress fracture, confirm if my orthotics are appropriate, and confirm if continued training is likely to be a problem.

Rest well in Granon!

Clare

Sorry to hear this Clare, I hope your foot is not fractured. My son walked the camino in 2013 and came back with a stress fracture! I think he pushed himself too hard to keep up with his camino family, he has arthritis badly and had to take his injectable treatment with him, probably should have gone a bit slower? He would go again in a heartbeat though.
Saw my GP, had an X-ray just waiting for results, so frustrated though, I want to go out and train hard.
On the other hand I'm glad it was Granon where I had to stop, serendipity. Will pick up as soon as i can.
Hope your results are favourable.
Sarah

 

[dougfitz]

I have been dreading the long leg from Carrion de los Condes to Caldadilla de la Cueza. It's just a tad too far for the distance I can walk in a normal working day, and it means I won't make it across this bit of the path until tomorrow. Add to that that the weather was miserable today, and I didn't get out for my lunchtime walk. If I were paranoid, I would think nature is conspiring against me

 

[C clearly]

Yesterday I put in a very brisk walk to the podiatrist (my last hurrah for a few weeks, I think). That would get me from Hornillos del Camino to Hontanas, where the Santa Brigida Albergue gets some good reviews.

nature is conspiring against me

Hmmm. Seems that nature is also picking on @Griffin57 and me. I am scheduled for a bone scan to see if I have a stress fracture. (I'm not certain that confirmation is particularly useful, though, for treatment decisions.) The good thing is that at the end of the consultation, I told the podiatrist I was planning to walk the Camino in October; he paused a moment and simply said "Well, we'd better get on with it", referring to diagnosis, treatment and new orthotics.

Since I should reduce walking for awhile, I have decided to give myself walking credit (for purposes of this virtual camino) for time spent working in the garden - at a speed of 3 km/hour. That means I must spend 6 hours in the garden in order to earn the walking distance from Carrion de los Condes to Caldadilla de la Cueza.

 

[mspath]

I'm with you! In reality ie boots on that ground it would take me at least 6 hours to walk from CdlC to CdC. How much credit might be gleaned from gardening on our hillside overlooking the Marne vineyards? Whatever the sum it is great exercise and practice for those slopes coming up on the CF further west.

 

[C clearly]

ow much credit might be gleaned from gardening on our hillside overlooking the Marne vineyards?

Well, no overlooking of vineyards in my garden! I spend most of my time sitting on the ground, crawling under shrubs, weeding, sorting rocks and watching insects. However, I find that being "close to nature" and methodical in my work creates a similar mindset as walking does. Either way, the tough part is to be patient and not rush the process.

 

[Griffin57]

Yesterday I put in a very brisk walk to the podiatrist (my last hurrah for a few weeks, I think). That would get me from Hornillos del Camino to Hontanas, where the Santa Brigida Albergue gets some good reviews




I stayed at the Santa Brigada Alberge last year. Lovely clean bunks, nice food, great atmosphere met some lovely pilgrims, at least three that had given up their jobs to walk the camino! Paella for evening meal good but not exceptional.
It was so funny when we arrived the host asked if my fiance Steve and I were a couple and when we said 'yes' he started to unlock another room, everyone joked we were getting the honeymoon suite! Well it was private room ....... but still had a bunk bed in it! Oh how we laughed!

 

[dougfitz]

I think my sigh of relief at reaching Caldadilla de la Cueza would have been heard for miles around lunchtime, and I pushed on this afternoon to reach Ledigos. It has been raining pretty constantly for the past two days, which has turned some of the road and the tracks into a quagmire, and I have been wet through from my own sweat raised in the effort to keep going. At least when sweat collects inside a rain jacket, it is warm

 

[nidarosa]

Hi fellow virtual peregrinos! I am now taking two days off (at least) to get some walking in, but in shorter distances to figure out the hip pain thing. Today I am leaving Pamplona and should end up in Zariquiegui, a place I have neither been able to spell nor stayed at. So I will check out the surroundings by internet when I come home again. Am PacerPoling it again on the presumtion that it takes some of my bodyweight off my joints, and will go the same distance again tomorrow without them to compare. See you at the next bar!

 

[C clearly]

Zariquiegui, a place I have neither been able to spell nor stayed at

But can you pronounce it?

In October 2014 I stayed at La Posada de Ardogi, which was quite nice, with good food. It is the same place as the formerly-named Albergue de Zariquiegui. That day I walked from Pamplona - it was a hot day and my baby-toe blister was just making itself known. I was also glad to go up over Alto del Perdon early the next day.

 

[dougfitz]

@nidarosa, it's good to see you on the road. I reached Sahagun last night, and spent some time exploring. Not sure whether I will head to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos or El Burgo Ranero today.

 

[nidarosa]

Thanks, @dougfitz - I'm afraid you've zoomed too far ahead of me for us to bump into each other now but it's good to know there are others on the Virtual Way. Reached the impronouncable tonight, will aim for Obanos tomorrow (even though I would prefer a night in the hotel part of the Jakue in Puente la Reina) and then gunning for Cirauqui, which I walked past a bit too quickly in 2012 and always wanted to spend a bit more time in. See you on the road tomorrow, virtual peregrinos!

 

[C clearly]

@nidarosaI reached Sahagun last night,

Sahagun will forever be the place where I abandoned my 2014 Camino just as I was getting strong and into the rhythm. However I knew that the family funeral was a special and unique event whereas the camino would be here for me another time.

Today I'm walking slowly from Hontanas to San Anton. There I hope to find the albergue that has recently been updated. I should have lots of time to ask around and look at local sites.

At 5 km/day, it would take almost 160 days to walk the Camino Frances. I would have to apply for a special visa to stay in the Schengen area that long, but wouldn't it be fun! My husband wouldn't mind if I do it during his motorcycle-riding season!

 

[nidarosa]

@C clearly : Oddly, Sahagun will forever be the place where I was abandoned on my 2012 camino - my friend had a really bad foot and we decided to meet in Leon to discuss our options, and instead she jumped a train and went to Madrid to fly home. As I left that morning I didn't know that I was actually walking alone (until I met a very grumpy Spanish man by the name of Dioniso, who I couldn't understand, so we spoke our own language to each other and that worked well). I made it to Obanos on tarmac, which is a small victory, and a friend has challenged me to a fitbit Weekend Warrior thing so I shall be trying to get to Cirauqui at least, or maybe Lorca - good night was had in Lorca - or maybe even Villatuerta? San Anton sounds lovely, I will bring a bivvy bag to stay there under the stars!

 

[dougfitz]

San Anton sounds lovely, I will bring a bivvy bag to stay there under the stars!

I keep being torn between going as far as my actual steps for the day take me, and stopping in the previous town with an albergue. After a couple of nights where I pushed on early in my virtual camino, I have generally favoured the comfort of a bed rather than the shelter of a church doorstep.

 

[C clearly]

I have noticed one fabulous thing about the virtual camino - virtual snoring (which is noiseless) kills virtual bedbugs!

I am pondering whether to bother taking a permethrin-sprayed sheet (230 g) for my real camino in October. I have found NO documented evidence that a permethrin-sprayed sheet will deter bedbugs from crossing the fabric to enjoy a feast on my body. The only relevant study I've found concluded that there was no deterrent effect - bedbugs happily wandered across the fabric without apparent ill effect. Sure it is possible that their future health will be affected, but that really doesn't interest me!

 

[mspath]

Another fabulous feature of this virtual travel is the virtually endless supply of hot water within every albergue as well as no lines for any loo!

 

[dougfitz]

The only relevant study I've found concluded that there was no deterrent effect - bedbugs happily wandered across the fabric without apparent ill effect.

Some sources credit permethrin with a mild repellant effect, but that is all.

 

[dougfitz]

For a bit of variation I took the long way to El Burgo Ranero yesterday, walking first to Calzada de Coto and then Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. Today I got a lot of walking in with various things, and walked on past Mansilla de las Mulas to Villarente.

 

[Lucy Longpath]

For a bit of variation I took the long way to El Burgo Ranero yesterday, walking first to Calzada de Coto and then Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. Today I got a lot of walking in with various things, and walked on past Mansilla de las Mulas to Villarente.

Did you go to Cafe El Camino in El Burgo Ranero? It is run by a lovely couple who met on the Camino, Manuel from Barcelona and Svetlana from Bulgaria. They do shared meals for pilgrims in the evening with paealla, lentil soup and/or a vegetarian plate of cheese, humous and brocoli. It is a very friendly welcoming place where we spent a happy evening recently.

 

[dougfitz]

Did you go to Cafe El Camino in El Burgo Ranero? It is run by a lovely couple who met on the Camino, Manuel from Barcelona and Svetlana from Bulgaria. They do shared meals for pilgrims in the evening with paealla, lentil soup and/or a vegetarian plate of cheese, humous and brocoli. It is a very friendly welcoming place where we spent a happy evening recently.

It sounds wonderful. Let me see if I can re-create that bit of my virtual journey so that I can enjoy their hospitality.

 

[Lucy Longpath]

It sounds wonderful. Let me see if I can re-create that bit of my virtual journey so that I can enjoy their hospitality.

They have a page on Facebook if you are on it and want to see more about the cafe.

 

[dougfitz]

I have reached Leon, and I am thinking of making my way to the Paris Hotel, where I stayed in 2010, but I am afraid that I might get itchy feet by the morning, and want to push on rather than stay for an extra day and tour the city.

 

[Griffin57]

I have reached Leon, and I am thinking of making my way to the Paris Hotel, where I stayed in 2010, but I am afraid that I might get itchy feet by the morning, and want to push on rather than stay for an extra day and tour the city.

@dougfitz you are really motoring! You will get to Santiago and be walking back to meet us before we get anywhere close. I'm so envious that's the kind of mileage I should be doing.

Right! That's enough sitting around and wallowing in self pity! It's only my shoulder that's damaged not my legs! Have spent plenty of time in Granon cooking up virtual pasta and my world famous (not really) Lemon drizzle cake for the pilgrims. I must tell you one day the story of the old Italian lady that stole all the chicken at Granon. Decided to head for Viloria, not too ambitious but good to be back walking. Now? With pole or without?.... will see how it goes

 

[dougfitz]

I am participating in a 10000 step challenge at work, and have set myself a goal to get a million steps during the two months (Jun & Jul). It hasn't been easy, but it helps thinking about the wonderful parts of Spain I am traversing on our virtual Camino.

 

[C clearly]

I have trudged along virtually to Castrojeriz where I'm staying in the municipal. I am wondering whether those forum rascals could get themselves organized to bring the Santiago tourist train to pick me up. Then they could run me up the hill to look at the ruins, and also back down to visit the Convento de Sta. Clara in time for vespers.

 

[dougfitz]

What a disaster. I stayed in the Paris Hotel, and didn't realise that I had been allocated a room overlooking the street. Not only didn't things quieten down until quite early this morning, there were also the noises of people returning to their rooms, toilets flushing, etc, etc. It made me appreciate the quiet that descends over an albergue room once the lights go out - except perhaps for my own snoring!

I spent the morning exploring the old city, and caught up with other pilgrims who are staying an extra day. After lunch, I walked on to La Virgen del Camino, and will stop here tonight. I need to make the choice tomorrow between Vilar de Mazarife and going via Villadangos. I somehow think the quiet ways will be more attractive than following the N120 too closely.

 

[dougfitz]

I chose to walk to Mazarife yesterday. It was one of my favourite towns on my CF in 2010, and didn't disappoint this time either. I enjoyed the quiet of the countryside after crossing the rio Oncina, and had lunch in Chozas de Abajo before meandering into Mazarife. Nice gentle day walking by myself.

 

[Griffin57]

I manged to get to Belorado! Slow going and not the easiest walk but I'm in no rush. Quatra Cantones with a family that cares about providing a good service and genuinely home cooked food, no soggy fries! Very extensive breakfast selection including homemade cakes and jam. Happy days.

 

[C clearly]

I spent an extra day (or 2 or 3?) in Castrojeriz, but have now moved on to Itero de la Vega. Here I have done quite a tour of town - seeing Carlos's dairy operation, the supermercado run by his mother, the exchange library of 30-40 books, the interior of an old house, a Belgian pilgrim getting his sello, Cafe La Tachu with a group of local men who say there isn't much night life in the town, a tour of the venue for their August Tachu Rock festival, the Iglesia San Pedro Apostal, and other glimpses of the town. We even interviewed the man in charge of town maintenance, including the park where pilgrims rest and refill their water.

All of this was thanks to a search for "Itero de la Vega" on YouTube! The fourth item (after 3 bicycle videos) was a 19-minute tour of the town produced by cyltvPalencia. which has a YouTube channel that's good practice for my Spanish.
https://www.youtube.com/user/cyltvPalencia/videos

 

[nidarosa]

You are all doing so well, and I have been blessed with more and more work so this month, which I thought would be more or less free, has been the busiest one this year. I shouldn't have named the month, I think, but now I am naming July for my virtual camino! Also all this work means we can afford both Hadrian's wall (sleeping indoors, yay!) and a two week camino later in the year ... so all is good.

 

[dougfitz]

On my last camino, I walked on from Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga - one of the longest days walk on that Camino. Not this year, I am going to break here instead.

 

[Griffin57]

Hi guys, sorry I've been missing again, busy with family stuff, my daughter got engaged today
I'm now at Villafranca Montes de Oca. Hostel San Anton Abad. Flat bed, Best food and wine I had on the camino, the owner has walked the camino and offers pilgrims the same food as his hotel guests at a cheaper price. The road is so busy here, the receptionist told me over 2000 trucks a day go by. Glad I'm not in the Municipal tonight its right by the road.

 

[mspath]

What a surprise to learn that you are across the road! I am in the municipal tonight for the nth time. Always enjoy pushing open that unlocked front door, taking off wet boots and staying here. The hospitalera who comes by late in the afternoon and lives nearby is SO friendly. Each time I recall the famous February 2006 blizzard when the snow outside was a metre deep and I spent 3 days/nights cozy inside brewing tea with a guy from Sao Paulo. ...Ah camino memories.

 

[Griffin57]

What a surprise to learn that you are across the road! I am in the municipal tonight for the nth time. Always enjoy pushing open that unlocked front door, taking off wet boots and staying here. The hospitalera who comes by late in the afternoon and lives nearby is SO friendly. Each time I recall the famous blizzard of 2006 when the snow outside was a meter deep and I spent 3 days/nights cozy inside brewing tea with a guy from Sao Paulo. ...Ah camino memories.

You are such an inspiration Margaret, when I can do a whole camino I am definitely going to a winter one, you make it sound so wonderful

 

[C clearly]

I'm now at Villafranca Montes de Oca. Hostel San Anton Abad

Are you in the albergue part or the upscale part? The owner came through and turned out the lights at 9 pm when I was there. I was the only person in the room at the time as the few other pilgrims were in the bar/restaurant, so I asked him whether we could use the lights until 10. My Spanish is quite understandable but he didn't respond and continued through the building. Two other pilgrims were admonished for being in the bar too late (but still earlier than 10 pm). The next morning, when he was making coffee in the cafe, someone asked about wifi, and he responded that it wasn't available in in the morning as pilgrims didn't need it.

While the albergue was good value and very comfortable, and the restaurant was very good, his attitude seemed to assume that we were not humble enough, although we were a small, quiet, courteous group of pilgrims. I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and assume that is just his way of dealing with potential issues.

That's a good point about the busy road.

 

[Griffin57]

I didn't actually meet the owner he was away on holiday. I was just blissed to have an non bunk bed! Also grateful for some delicious potatoes (no soggy fries!)

Ah the Alberge, I'm a simple nurse, can't afford hotel prices and there certainly won't be any Paradors for me!

 

[dougfitz]

Ah the Alberge, I'm a simple nurse, can't afford hotel prices and there certainly won't be any Paradors for me!

It's going to be my special treat to myself when I reach Santiago. I think I can afford it this time.

 

[Griffin57]

It's going to be my special treat to myself when I reach Santiago. I think I can afford it this time.

Of course! I forgot, I can afford a virtual Parador

But you know I really like simplicity.

 

[dougfitz]

Tonight I am stopping in El Ganzo after walking from Astorga. I had a quiet afternoon in Astorga visiting the cathedral, museum and the chocolate museum. I didn't get the opportunity last time I was here, but made sure I had a good look around this time.

 

[Griffin57]

In Ages looking for a tiny alberge with a great reputation. ?Casa Caracol? Slow going, still lots of shoulder pain but not giving up!

 

[mspath]

In Ages looking for a tiny alberge with a great reputation. ?Casa Caracol? ...

Since this walk is virtual I'm right behind you! Casa Caracol was at 4 calle de Iglesia years ago and VERY special. Perhaps today it is only open in our dreams.

 

[Griffin57]

Since this walk is virtual I'm right behind you! Casa Caracol was at 4 calle de Iglesia years ago and VERY special. Perhaps today it is only open in our dreams.

Ah, my Brierley is a 2013 edition and it's still in there. mmm some of this virtual camino is planning for my actual camino in September so good to know. I guess it will be El Pajar then? Or San Rafael? any recommendations?

 

[dougfitz]

I got a couple of walks in today, and was able to reach Riego de Ambros. I loved the walk through Rabanal and Foncebadon to Cruz de Fero. Just gorgeous. But that descent into Acebo. I didn't like it last time, and it hasn't gotten any better.

 

[Griffin57]

I got a couple of walks in today, and was able to reach Riego de Ambros. I loved the walk through Rabanal and Foncebadon to Cruz de Fero. Just gorgeous. But that descent into Acebo. I didn't like it last time, and it hasn't gotten any better.

@dougfitz your mileage continues to inspire me. I normally love descents but I had a fall there last time, not a bad one but shook me up a bit and made me take things slower, a lesson I seem to remain reluctant to learn.

 

[C clearly]

I guess it will be El Pajar then? Or San Rafael?

If I remember correctly, El Pajar was good. The bathrooms were private - you have shower, sink and toilet all to yourself with a proper door!

 

[C clearly]

But that descent into Acebo.

On my first camino in 2012, I walked with my sister in law, and our first day was only Astorga to El Ganso. Then Day 2 was El Ganso to Acebo. Being early November, the sleet/snow started as we trudged up to the Cruz de Ferro. The Cruz was COLD and windy and wet. I should have layered better (it was just Day 2 so I didn't have the art perfected) so I was relieved when we got to Manjarin where there was fire and hot tea. We considered staying there but I put on another layer and decided to brave the weather to find accommodation with hot showers! We were so happy to see Acebo after 7 km in ugly weather and darkness approaching, that the descent was a pleasure. As we entered town, a man walking his dog stopped to tell us about his Casa Rural - so we stayed at Jaime's lovely La Trucha del Arco Iris. Excellent vegetarian food, cozy fireplace, great atmosphere.

 

[dougfitz]

I have had a slow day today, with a nice brisk walk this morning to Ponferrada. I have spent the rest of the day quietly, with a little retail therapy, coffee and a nice meal.

 

[mspath]

Since this is virtual travel I have chosen a cold November morning to walk long stretches alone through dense groves of tall fern, holm oak and pine. Today's camino path from Villamayor to Ages via the San Juan Ortega monastery crossed a Narnia-like wood which under incessant drizzle seemed almost bewitched.

Yet happily while tramping through that wood as the sun rose on the distant horizon I sensed that special moment when everything 'clicked'. Then I realized that this was, indeed, MY way and that all was and would be good. Perhaps such secular transcendence felt while walking might be akin to what runners call 'the zone'. Your body can handle the task while your spirit glows with the effort. Neither easy, nor impossible; all simply is. Thus, thankfully you continue knowing that you can do it and will continue to do so as long as you have the energy.

 

[Griffin57]

Yet happily while tramping through that wood as the sun rose on the distant horizon I sensed that special moment when everything 'clicked'. Then I realized that this was, indeed, MY way and that all was and would be good. Perhaps such secular transcendence felt while walking might be akin to what runners call 'the zone'. Your body can handle the task while your spirit glows with the effort. Neither easy, nor impossible; all simply is. Thus, thankfully you continue knowing that you can do it and will continue to do so as long as you have the energy.[/QUOTE]

There should most definitely be a 'Love This' button on here!
I know exactly how you you feel, its almost magical and you can't make it happen it just does.

Burgos is in sight for me, I really want to take that river route, I know there's a certain roundabout I have to look for, any tips?

 

[dougfitz]

The urban walk out of Ponferrada wasn't all that long, but I wasn't quite expecting to be walking into the morning sun! At one point the path was progressing in an almost easterly direction, and I was worried that I might have lost the trail. Not knowing whether to push on or retrace my steps, I decided to push on a little, and was rewarded by the appearance of an arrow and not too long after that the return of the marked trail to its more normal westerly direction.

I have stopped in Cacabelos tonight. Tomorrow I will make an early start for Villafranca for breakfast before making my decision about which route I will take for the rest of the day.

 

[Griffin57]

Taking the day off in Burgos, visiting the Museum of Human evolution and eating lots of food! Going to the Cathedral again, so much to take in.

 

[C clearly]

I had to look WAY back on this thread to remember where I was on my last post. It was Itero de la Vega. After a day, I walked to Boadilla del Camino where of course I stayed in Albergue En El Camino and dangled my feet in the swimming pool for the rest of the afternoon. The next day being a Friday, I head to Fromista for the weekly market. The canal was rather interesting, as well as a pleasant walk.

 

[nidarosa]

I too had a bit of a 'now where was I' moment yesterday, when I suddenly found myself walking a bit! I wanted to stay at Cirauqui for a bit, and now I have. According to Godesalco's distance chart I ended up between Lorca and Villatuerta, I suppose I got my bivvy bag out again and slept under the stars? Something I never did before, but am tempted to do next time (not illegally, obviously, but in an albergue garden?). My Fitbit is back on and I have finished my deadline - hurrah! - and the next one is far, far away at this point.

I think I have learned an important lesson on this virtual camino: you really do get what you need, not what you want there and then. I did need more work and I got it. Now I need some exercise and fresh air!

 

[dougfitz]

I got to Villafranca for breakfast as planned, and decided to take the Camino de Pradela route through the hills, and have reached Trabedelo. I will stay here tonight, and think about whether to push on past La Faba, or stop there tomorrow.

 

[Griffin57]

 

[Griffin57]

I'm still in Burgos! Promise to walk these off tomorrow

 

[dougfitz]

Promise to walk these off tomorrow

If you eat them on a virtual camino, do you have to be virtuous as well?

 

[Griffin57]

If you eat them on a virtual camino, do you have to be virtuous as well?

Why @dougfitz I am always virtuous!!!

Seriously this is the only time I can afford something so calorific! One of the pleasures of the camino is to burn your calories 'before' you consume them. Guilt free dining

 

[C clearly]

I am going to start this Virtual Camino all over! As posted elsewhere, I have confirmed the metatarsal stress fracture in my left foot. Even assuming that it will be healed before October, I should be careful not to overdo things, especially on concrete surfaces and in the first couple of weeks. My airline reservations give me a full 6 weeks of walking time, but even 20 km/day average is likely too much to attempt. I will work my way virtually along the way, looking at distances and surfaces, and maybe skipping portions if necessary.

So tomorrow I fly to Biarritz as planned!

 

[nidarosa]

You will probably catch up with me very soon then... I am in Estella, and the only thing I remember about Estella is that I left my practically new shoes on the doorstep of an albergue because they were not quite big enough. I then walked in my Teva sandals until Logroño where I bought a new pair of mid boots which I loved - they were huge! So today I am back in my sandals

 

[dougfitz]

I was tempted to stop tonight at La Faba, where I stayed in 2010, but pushed on Laguna de Castilla. Tonight will be my last night in Castilla y Leon.

 

[C clearly]

Beginning my new Virtual Camino, trying to figure out my options in case I need to reduce daily distances on my real one, especially on concrete...
I have never been in Biarritz/Bayonne, so the following is invented based on web browsing. (I wouldn't want anyone to accidentally come across this post and expect to rely on it!)

I arrived in Biarritz airport at 2 pm, pretty tired after the long trip and connection in Paris. Due to jet lag and a preference not to be rushing, I decided to stay one night in Biarritz and another in SJPP before starting the Camino. At the airport I retrieved my small checked bag, stuffed it into my backpack, looked at the spot where Express Bourricot does their pickup just in case I decide to use them tomorrow. I walked 1 km to the bus stop that I recognized from Google Maps, got on the bus and managed to pay my fare - I was prepared with 1 Euro, payable on the bus. (I hate being incompetent in the language. I know a certain amount of French, from my school days, but it has been supplanted by Spanish.) I got off the bus at the Gare, since that's where I'll probably want to get the train tomorrow to SJPP. Then it was a 2 minute walk to the Hotel Restaurant Monte Carlo, which I think was suggested once by @mspath .

I am settled into my basic but private room and will go out for a walk to the water, maybe look at the lighthouse, and have something to eat before an early night. Tomorrow I will start to identify as a pilgrim.

 

[Griffin57]

You certainly have a great plan Clare.Hope your foot is on the mend?

I have managed to make it to Hornillos, last time I was here there was a fiesta and the guest of honour was ................. a pig! A really cute piglet that was treat like a well-loved family dog. The families were very welcoming and offered us food and drink and there was music till late.
Gmonkey (Grace) and I were highly entertained by the DJ joining in with Pink Floyd, who would have thought we'd have been drifting off to sleep to a slightly drunken and truly terrible rendition of 'Another brick in the wall'?

 

[dougfitz]

As I was re-reading my old Brierley from 2010, I came across a eucalyptus leaf marking the page for Fonfria, where I am staying tonight. I collected it from a plantation closer to Santiago, and remember feeling terribly homesick walking through that area and catching the scent of the oil in the air. My leaf has lost its scent now, but it was a wonderful reminder of my earlier Camino.

 

[Griffin57]

Just a slow dawdle to Hontanas today. the heat is really getting to me today. Must drink more water, first time around I didn't use a water bladder but I have one now and I'm really grateful for it. Just moseying along taking in the scenery, looking forward to a cool shower.

 

[nidarosa]

Oh the heat! Only got to Villamayor de Monjardin yesterday and today I stayed local plodding about - can I blame the church bells chiming every hour through the night?

 

[dougfitz]

After a nice, but late, breakfast in Triacastela, I have pushed on to the outskirts of Samos. I only just got to the edge of the town, and stopped at the first place I could find. I guess that if I am tempted to push on early tomorrow, I won't see all that much of the town.

 

[C clearly]

Only got to Villamayor de Monjardin yesterday

I thought it looked like a nice town to stay in, last year when I just walked through.

After a great night's sleep and leisurely breakfast in Biarritz, I spent quite a bit of time repacking my backpack. My arrangement has now changed to walking mode, from the airline trip mode. I got the 11:07 am "train" at Bayonne station - from my look at the website, I think it was a bus. (Funny I can't confirm, even after virtually taking it!) Met some pilgrims on the bus, of course, and we all formed an irregular excited convey up to the pilgrims' office. I had a reservation at Beilari and am looking forward to the evening meal. First, a walk around town. Then I need to confirm the weather for tomorrow, to make sure the Napoleon route is OK. Either way, I'm taking 2 days, as I have a reservation at Orisson. I was considering the Valcarlos route since I did the Napoleon last year, but it seems to have more road walking and I want to reduce the impact on my healing metatarsals.

 

[dougfitz]

I had a good walking day today, with a quite chilly early morning walk (about -4 deg C, but felt colder!) and another 8km this afternoon to give me nearly 20km for the day. Enough to walk past Sarria to Barbadelo. I got a sello on my way through Sarria, and need to remember to do that during the day from now on.

 

[nidarosa]

In Los Arcos, which I can't remember at all from 2012 - must have just staggered through it after that long, straight walk. Incidentally my actual walk was also long and straight, and hot, but in partial shade. Tested out single pole use (prefertwo because my hands swell), Superfeet insoles to help with PF (not sure if it made it worse) and new coolmax socks for hot feet (unmitigated success!). Now resting in garden after an albergue style shower (cool if not cold) and a not ensalada mista (Caesar with more veg). All in all a good day on the virtual camino!

 

[C clearly]

about -4 deg C

Isn't that colder than usual?
We have had an extraordinary spell of dry hot (for us, i.e. 30 C) weather. Since I have been so inactive, the days seem endless, but in a good way. It is my first summer of retirement as well, which adds to the vacation feel.

In Los Arcos, which I can't remember at all from 2012

Unlike many places, I do remember it. The cold beers in the vending machine at albergue Puente/Casa de Austria were very welcome.

Today I stocked up on a few extra snacks for today's and tomorrow's walks, and set out slowly from SJPP. I put 2/3 of my things into my pack liner and sent it by transport to Orisson. I carried my backpack with my day things and arrived after 3 hours. Sure it a hard walk uphill, but I did not find it so terrible. Having little load, not talking much while walking, and stopping very frequently made it quite doable. (That's my memory, anyway. We'll see how it is next time!)

 

[dougfitz]

Isn't that colder than usual?

Where I live it is not unusual to get minima down to -6 deg C. What is unusual is to find me walking if it is that cold!