Luka on the Invierno

[Luka]

I'll try to post here every day, but don't know if (the availability of) WiFi allows it.

Day 0: Ponferrada

I stayed in the brand new albergue Guiana, which is really a stone's throw away from the traffic circle with the cross. It is expensive compared to other albergues (12 euro), but with aircon, clean sheets, small rooms, every bed its own enchufe and so on. They should advertise with being so close to the Invierno ;-)

Found the wooden cabin Tom wrote about (of the amigos del Camino) but it was closed on Saturday. The tourist office couldn't tell me much. They had the old guide (2011) and expected the new one in a month. The guide should also be available at the librería on Plaza Ayutiamiento, but it wasn't. Because of lack of WiFi, I would have preferred something on paper. I'll manage with Laurie's excellent guide and some sources I got through email, this forum and internet. Thanks fellow pilgrims!

 

[Luka]

Day 1: Ponferrada - Las Médulas (32?)

Because of the heat I set out in the dark at 5.45 am. I have to say that this felt a bit scary. All by myself on dark, unknown roads. Have done it before, but have to get used to it again after 'comfort zone' Francés. Soon a police car pulled over. The officer wanted to redirect me to 'El Camino'. Fortunately he had heard of the Invierno and let me continue ;-)

What a beautiful stage this is! What a joy after the bar-to-bar walk on the Meseta! Without realizing that I probably missed the short cut on the road, I walked to the castillo. With pleasure. I only didn't like the tarmac descent from the castle into Borette (forgot the name of the village). The last part was a bit though, constantly climbing a bit in the full sun. Marking was excellent. Got the idea that the stage was shorter than 32 kilometers.

Nothing was open before Las Médulas (Sunday), so I picknicked twice, at the viewpoint before Sa... and at the little square in Borette (?). I found Casa Sorocco and got the last room I think (but I am the only pilgrim here it seems).

Had lunch at Taberna Romana (am using their WiFi now). Nice place, but I had some difficulties as a vegetarian: telling them I was vegetarian, they said I could have ensalada mixta and ensalada campesina, I asked what the last one contained, he said potatoes, peas and peppers. So I ordered ensalada mixta ('sin atun') as a primero and ensalada campesina as a segundo. Got the mixta without atun, but the campesina with atun... They just don't understand it, being vegetarian (they call me 'grass eater' sometimes...)

There was one thing that was a really unpleasant surprise. Loose dogs. I encountered one in four different villages, coming at me and barking aggressively. That really scared me. And then there was this man that loosened his dog when I was passing by. It came at me barking heavily and it was big. All these loose dogs, is that normal? So far it might be the only reason not to finish this Camino. My heart rate went up every time I entered a village...

P.S: no worries, my posts won't stay this long ;-)

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Luka. Glad you are on the Invierno and enjoying it so far. We heard from a local guy that there used to be a descent straight from the castle to Borrenes off-road, but the motos ruined it.

I am like you in my fear of dogs. I made it fine, so I think you will too. I did have Reb for a few days but I also got pretty good at walking by them by myself. Don't let it take the fun out of this camino though. If you're really scared just stand there and scream "oiga" and someone will come. buen camino, Laurie

 

[wayfarer]

Buen Camino Luka, please keep us updated.

 

[NualaOC]

Good for you Luka, looking forward to your posts! I totally understand your nervousness around dogs - hope you don't encounter too many more. Buen Camino.

 

[Luka]

Thanks all, it is nice to know that I am not walking alone.

I am like you in my fear of dogs. I made it fine, so I think you will too. I did have Reb for a few days but I also got pretty good at walking by them by myself. Don't let it take the fun out of this camino though. If you're really scared just stand there and scream "oiga" and someone will come. buen camino, Laurie

Didn't dare to do that at 7am on Sunday morning ;-)
But one time I really backed off because of a dog barking to me on the middle of the road 100 metres before I would have reached it. Just trying to find a different path. But then a man shouted to me from a distance: 'The Camino is that way!'. So I turned again... the dog had been taken inside. I was so glad!

But what do you do? Just ignore them? Because I started yelling (well, raising my voice...) at them, as to try to tell them who is boss. That made them move two paws back. When I would just pass without paying attention I afraid that they will be coming after my calves...

 

[peregrino_tom]

I walked with a good-sized staff on the Invierno. In most cases I barely had to raise it to get 'respect'. Yes, the little ones in particular try and come round behind you to nip your ankles but fanning the staff behind me worked. I think you've had an unlucky start, as I had few dog problems and the one time an aggressive dog squared up t0 me the owners were very apologetic, and subsequently administered some payback on the mutt. I suggest you get a stick.

 

[bsmorgan]

Thank you Luca. I am walking every step with you. Hopefully we'll be on the Invierno mid August after starting Frances at SJPP next week. You are an inspiration and I'm loving your posts. I hope the dog situation settles for you.
Will be interested in how you are managing the heat and food access.
Buen camino
Sue and Brian

 

[annakappa]

You could buy a 'dog whistle', which is a whistle with a sound that dogs don't like and move away.
However, of course, you are surely no where near a place where you can buy one!!! We bought one in Santiago once, actually to take back home. It really does work!

 

[Oztrekker]

I am saddened to read about your dog drama.

Grass eater made me laugh. Dutch Space cake.

understand dogs. I have had large dogs, rhodesian ridgeback,and rescued a pit bull from being euthenised.

I have also had an australian kelpie and two jack russels family dogs.

Being a menber of the dog training society also helped.

If confronted dont run, they will chase you and bite.

Stand your ground show no fear. Take the dog on and back them down with a stern voice. Point them in the direction you want them to go.

Treking poles, pepper spray will work as a last resort.

You are an amazing trekker i wish you the best journey.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Luka, someone told me this years ago and it has always worked.
You just bend over and pick up a rock and the dogs run!
They know what it is.

I'm scared to death of dogs also having been attacked and bitten by a pit bull years ago.
Try it!
Hopefully you'll see no more dogs.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Those dogs are juat like the ones who bark at the postman: they know that if they keep barking the person will walk away . Smarter thanus, aren't they? Until I walked the norte it had never been an issue, and I breed large dogs. This is what happened:

2 pilgrims ahead of me. Dog barks, they keep,walking. I get closer to the dog. One of the pilgrims walks back towards the the dog, and I, to take a photo. Dog not happy! And since I was the closest to him he thought he would try to scare me, and run after me. Poor dog never heard a command like mine and ran home.

All this to say, if you keep walkimg by, as all good pilgrims do, or post men, you'll be fine!

 

[LauraK]

Luka: I walked the Camino Sanabres in March and was alone until after Orense so many solo nights in albergues and I saw no one on the camino. I encountered many dogs including two packs of dogs (5-6 dogs together), a couple of very aggressive sheep dogs and numerous single dogs that were unleashed. This does not include the large number of chained dogs that barked at me as I passed by homes. I was terrified at first because a sheep dog nipped my leg from behind on my previous winter camino on the Camino Frances. I decided I needed to work through my fear and did the following: do not give eye contact, keep calm and walk slowly by with confidence. I found most (except sheep dogs which are very protective) let me pass by without incident. I had trekking poles and thought I could use them if needed...it helped with my fear. I think most of the dogs were territorial and used their loud barking to scare me. Once they saw I wasn't responding and kept an even pace as I passed (without looking at them), they would generally stop. I saw one pack from far away and every time they wandered to one side of the road, I would wander slowly to the other side. This occurred three times until just before they passed...one German shepherd broke off and passed me on the left while the rest were on the right... I kept calm and stared straight ahead - no problem until a few meters later I turned around to take picture and one of the dogs turned around and bared his teeth and growled...learned to not stop again! But I did feel "we" had communicated by the pattern of walking and calm energy which resulted in them not being afraid or attacking as we passed. I learned a lot about fear from those dogs...it was amazing how staying in a calm confident place made such a difference. A lesson I took home with me. I hope you don't give up on the Invierno. Safe travels.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

If a dog is blocking your path, bend down and pick up a rock. If there are no rocks, just pretend like you have one. Hold it in your hand like you aim to throw it at the dog. He will back right down.
It always works for me, anyway.

 

[Oztrekker]

Laura has some good advice. As a dog lover it saddens me to see such irresponsible dog owners.

It saddens me to see people mistreat dogs, or dogs that have poor body language.

I am from the school of never hit your dog.

Encourage positive reinforcement, and use non verbal or whispered commands with powerful breeds.

So yes the calm energy can work. Lack of challenge with eye contact and good spacial distance is also good.

Throwing aggressive dogs chorizo food etc. Is another way of escaping.

Today I met a hungry boxer dog at about 730, he was waiting for pilgrims. He was a well groomed 1 year old but underfed.

Sad. Then i met an overweight unkempt bichon, then a caramel colored lap dog bitzer with a broken jaw and its tail betwern its legs.

Dogs and owners come in all shapes sizes and psychology.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks all, it is nice to know that I am not walking alone.

Didn't dare to do that at 7am on Sunday morning ;-)...

If someone has put a scary dog outside at 7 in the morning, I wouldn't stand on ceremony. It seems to me that all the barking is going to wake them up anyway. The law is that they have to be tethered, I was told, so if enough pilgrims let them know it's not ok, they will probably find it easier to obey the law than put up with the irritation.

Hope the Invierno is going well for you Luka.

 

[Luka]

Wow, what a wonderful advice you have all given me! I am going to try Laura's: passing calmly by (as calm as I can get myself, my instinct tells me to run) and as a second resort I will try the picking up a stone trick. I have thought about a stick, but it just seems a bit too far to only carry a stick because of dogs.

A pack of dogs? I wonder if my heart is strong enough for that...

But it also makes me a bit sad, those dogs. They weren't born that way. It is all about how people treat them. The fact that they get scared when you only pick up a stone says it all...

Today was a good day dogwise! One German Shepherd scared the hell out of me, but he was chained. A small one came after me heavily barking, but I only had to turn around to scare it. The rest of them were behind fences.

 

[Luka]

Day 2: Las Médulas - O Barco de Valdeorras (28)

The dogs and my fears were still on my mind when I set out (very late, 7am). Maybe it is a bit of everything together: the solitude, the unknown, a foreign country (however I love Spain and have been here often)... I just don't want my fears to rule my Camino. The trainstations were a bit tempting. Knowing they were the passage to civilization and bigger, very nice cities. But I'll give it a chance. It would be a triumph reaching Santiago this way.

At the village after Santo Domingo Florez (Quereña?) I got a bit lost. Brand new markers sent me for a stupid detour through the village. When I had almost made a circle I was so much scared by a fierce barking German Shepherd that I missed the crucial arrow. And there I was: back at the same spot. I tried another road, but a man sent me back in the direction of the dog. Laurie's guide saved me, leading me on the right dirtpath without a stupid detour through the village. I just had to pass the (chained) dog again.

Then an angel fell out of the sky. His name was José Luis. Another pilgrim! We walked and chatted for an hour or so. This was his ninth Camino, doing a different one every year. I won't see him again, he is going to Quiroga tomorrow (I just to A Rua) and then he has to return home already. But our encounter changed my mood completely!

It was a hot day today because I set out so late. But I seem to cope quite well with the heat. I just drink a lot of water, some Aquarius and sometimes something with extra magnesium and potassium. My diet here is boring, but I am used to that. An ensalada mixta a day. In my pack I carry things like dates, figs, seeds, nuts, roasted chick peas and always some cheese. My breakfast consists mostly of fruits. When I can (not on this Camino) I cook. I might buy some lentils or chickpeas today and try to make a very basic salad.

I am staying at Hostal Do Mar now. Great value, 25 euros for a room with my own bathroom. Tomorrow a short stage, so I can sleep in and party tonight ;-)

 

[Anniesantiago]

So happy you had a better day today.
Those circular trips can be frustrating, but without it you wouldn't have met your Camino angel
Take care - am enjoying your reports!

 

[mspath]

I, too, am enjoying your posts Luka! Glad that you learned to pass by those dogs; they certainly would make me very nervous. Enjoy your well earned rest tonight. May tomorrow be another good day.

Ultreia!

 

[Luka]

Oh yes @Anniesantiago I am aware of that! He wondered why we hadn't met yesterday and would have liked to stay in Casa Sorocco too, instead of going on until Puente de Domingo Florez (which is about 40k).

 

[LauraK]

Luka: I love your posts! I feel like I am with you on the camino. Those German Shepherds are scary. I found the chained ones were the loudest and nastiest but felt sorry for them. I still remember one standing ON TOP of his dog house barking loudly over the fence as I walked by...that really scared me! But I wouldn't change my camino one bit. I also got lost quite often especially due to the construction for the AVE train and numerous detours...I nicknamed it my "lost camino" because I just seemed to get lost a lot. In hindsight, I feel the challenges of loneliness, solo albergue nights, dogs and getting lost was what was great about my camino...the word "fear" entered my mind often and I ended up thinking about all the other fears in my life. I realized I easily handled each fear as it came on the camino and I resolved to not let fear drive me in my life anymore. The camino actually taught me how to handle fear and to see how much we enhance that fear in our heads. A real blessing.
I am so happy you met a fellow pilgrim...on every camino I have found a pilgrim always seems to show up right when I need them...very noticeable when on a less traveled camino. I am hoping to walk the Invierno some day so I look forward to reading more of your posts. I am happy you mentioned Laurie's notes. She deserves a big thank you. I used her notes on the Camino Sanabres and they really helped me, especially the albergue and restaurant recommendations. I hope the dogs are behind you and you have more pleasant days ahead.

 

[Mike Savage]

You are doing great Luka and I am enjoying every word.

 

[Oztrekker]

Absolutely into this thread. I did not even know this route existed.

Glad you found your angel luka.

I am still waiting for mine I think she is still growing her feathers.

Buen Camino Invierno.

 

[Luka]

You forum people are so nice! Thank you for that, I really feel supported. And I still need it on this Camino.

@LauraK the concept of fear has been in my thoughts a lot. This morning I set out with this tensed, nervous feeling again. For no reason. Fear is most of the time an irrational feeling. And yes, I want to conquer it. It is all in my head.

Half a year ago I was bitten by a dog. Twice, in my hip and my arm. No blood, just very big bruises (I get them easily). It was a husky, on a leash. A posh looking lady was walking it. It happened out of nowhere when I passed by. No barking, just two bites out of nowhere. It surprised me as much as it seemed to surprise the lady holding the leash. She said something like sorry, but I was so flabbergasted, so swept off my feet, that I just uttered something like 'It's OK' and walked on. It took a while to realise what just happened.

Did it make me scared of dogs on a leash? No. Did it make me more afraid of dogs in general? No. But now, when walking through the Spanish countryside I see packs of murderous wolves coming out of nowhere all the time...

 

[Luka]

Day 3: O Barco - La Rúa (14)

A very short stage, so I had breakfast at the Hostal Do Lar at a lazy half past eight. They are nice people! I am just going from one recommendation to the next ;-)

Easy stage, beautiful views and yes, a lot of road walks. Especially today I have some slight problems with the joints in my knees and the muscles on my shins. But not something to be worried about yet.

Again I set out a bit tensed and again wondering why I wanted to walk this Camino in the first place. This time it was a young man in a car that changed my mood. He went through the little tunnel before me, just after the house with the horses. On the other side I saw him getting out of his car to remove some weed that had overgrown a yellow arrow. Such a nice little gesture!

I had a little picknick break at the picknick area near the river. A loose dog walked in my direction. No barking, not paying attention to me, just sniffing the grass and enjoying himself. That felt good! And then... José Luis showed up! With the friend he stayed with in O Barco, Jorge. I had thought they would be way ahead of me, but they had started late too. They were walking to Quiroga and the train bringing them back to O Barco wouldn't leave before six, so they had decided to sleep a bit more and make it a hot walking day. They sat with me and we chatted for a while before we wished each other 'buen camino'.

Asún and her mother of the albergue privado are wonderful people indeed! I am now enjoying a local wine at the bar in A Rúa they recommended (Pepa, near the ayutamiento), but walking back and having dinner with them will feel like coming home.

 

[Luka]

Oh, one more thing. In the Voz de Galicia of today was an article about the 'CaVino de Invierno' to be held this weekend in A Rúa. Thirteen bars are organizing a 'wine camino' in the village. You can taste two different wines in every bar and get your wine credential stamped. Seems like the Invierno is going commercial ;-)

 

[LauraK]

Luka: I completely understand about the wolves. After encountering the dogs, a man at a donativo cafe in the mountains just before Laza told me to be careful walking through the woods because there were wolves and he said he had seen one in the daytime. I felt just like you described as
I walked through the forest..."murderous wolves coming out of nowhere"...it really freaked me out for about 15-20 minutes walking, then I had to just get a hold of myself and stop the fear. I had a beautiful walk from there down into the valley. I know you wonder why you chose to walk this camino, but I remember your comments and discomfort on the CF. It seems to me that on this camino you are really connecting with the people you are meeting, observing the simple kindness around you, and in touch with your feelings and reaction to your environment (even though some of it is fear). The solitude can do that to you. I remember a week or so into my camino I cried a bit wondering what the hell I was doing and why did I choose this lonely path...a few hard days later I got my answer. Enjoy your vino! Wish I was there to share a bottle with you.

 

[Oztrekker]

The vino credencial, priceless.

Sounds like a university party.

 

[pudgypilgrim]

murderous wolves coming out of nowhere

Wolves are very shy creatures and I'd feel fortunate to see one. I used to live in an area with both Mexican Timber Wolves and coyotes, and I was way more afraid of the coyotes than the wolves, I can tell you. And of large undisciplined dogs running loose. I'd take a nice retiring wolf or two over those, too.

 

[nalod]

Best wishes Luka, keep enjoying. Idea! Geneva to Santiago wine Camino through three countries.

 

[Luka]

Day 4: A Rúa - Montefurado / Monforte de Lemos (10)

I bailed out... I am so sorry, in spite of all your support. Had a restless night, after a very nice evening with Asún and her mother. Was woken up by a fierce barking dog several times. I was looking up to walking again tomorrow. Like every night since that first stage.

I told Asún about my fear of dogs. We agreed that it was all in my head. But she also said I should walk with a pole to defend myself if necessary. Also against wolves. Like @pudgypilgrim I had always thought wolves were shy, but I didn't dare to ask Asún any further.

So the next morning (after having been interviewed by Asún) I set out in the dark, hoping not to wake up the dog of last night. Again feeling tensed and nervous, like my other days on the Invierno so far. I expected no facilities, so I told myself to walk at least to Quiroga today and then decide how to go on. A bit more worried about my shins and knees, because they were still complaining. And then, after 10k, there was this unexpected trainstation of Montefurado. I checked the timetable. One train to Monforte today, leaving at 10.12 (it was around 8.30 by then). I couldn't resist.

So here I am, in Monforte de Lemos, considering my options. I feel relieved to be back in civilization, also feel a bit defeated. I have been walking for weeks in the middle of nowhere in Belgium and France, have had some encounters with aggressive dogs there too, but I never quit for that reason. And now, after 4 days, I still can't control my fear.

I have two options. Get myself back together and continue on the Invierno tomorrow. The only other option I want to consider is taking a train to Sarria and finish my Camino on the pilgrim's highway. That would mean another lesson: dealing with crowds and turigrinism. Millions of people walked there before me, but I never did. Why not finally see it with my own eyes and drink it in? It is only 5 days. If I can't handle the more adventurous Camino de Invierno, that should be my destiny.
Oh irony ;-)

 

[wayfarer]

Have a great finish to your Camino Luka whatever you decide.
Buen Camino.

 

[LauraK]

Luka: No reason to be sorry. It is your camino and you need to follow your heart. Whatever you choose to do will be "right". Maybe you needed the detour on the Invierno to help you get back on the CF with a different perspective of the crowds? I am enjoying your posts and am excited to see what comes next! Buen Camino.

 

[Luka]

Finally succeeded in posting a picture here with my tablet! This is the mother of Asún, who told me everything about her life (since 1923) sitting on that chair.

 

[KinkyOne]

Finally succeeded in posting a picture here with my tablet! This is the mother of Asún, who told me everything about her life (since 1923) sitting on that chair.

Ah, yes, Manuela (if I remember correctly) is really one fine dame. And I'm proud that last year when Asun was washing all my clothes because of bedbugs, Manuela gave me her short silk night gown so I wasn't parading around completely naked

 

[Marc S.]

Hello Luka. How recognizable to read this threat and about your fear of dogs. I know all about it, have walked five Camino's and although I know
how to cope most of the time, there are always moments again when I am just not able to cope - although I know (also from experience) I should just calmly walk on, pretend to pick up a stone, radiate a calm energy, etcetera. Maybe you feel a bit defeated now, but there is no need to be. Actually I quit my last Camino in May. There were some days of a lot of dogs barking (although not biting) and I just got fed up with it. Then one morning there was a dog standing in the middle of the road, looking mean and barking at me. I walked back and returned fifteen minutes later, and it was still there. I just did not have the energy to overcome my fear, and decided this was to be the end of my Camino,and went home. (later it turned out to be a very good decision and leave the Camino and be home). But anyway, dont let it bring you down and Buen Camino, whatever you choose to do next....

 

[peregrino_tom]

I have thought about a stick, but it just seems a bit too far to only carry a stick because of dogs.

Luka, think of it this way... you might carry a stick to allow you to continue on the camino Invierno with less worry. Also, it might provide a little relief for your shins and knees - it's the trusty staff that's supported many a pilgrim on a hard road through the centuries.
In any case, I'm sure that whatever decision you make about how to proceed will be the right one.
best wishes, tom

 

[Luka]

Thanks again!!

@Marc S. Thank you for sharing your story. Very recognizable. I have had doubts for a few days. Today the moment came that the bucket was full...

@peregrino_tom You are right about a pole. I don't know why I am so stubborn on that. You were fondly remembered by Asún!

I will take an early morning train to Sarria and will just start walking from there and just let everything happen. I might stay in between stages though.

 

[bsmorgan]

What an amazing perigrina you are. You have walked so far on your own, a feat many could not do - and you did! It's easy to say but harder to take to your heart, that you should feel enormous pride, not disappointment in your decision.
Wherever you walk, whatever your route, whatever your speed, stops, accommodation, it is your Camino and your epic walk just had a detour. No problem with that.
I love that you've listened to your body to adjust your plans. That comes from the wisdom of the tribal elders.
Enjoy the beauty of the countryside from Sarria. It's only a few days. Then the Muxia route might call you.
Buen camino.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

As I recall, me and the intrepid Laurie gave that Montefurado trian station a long looking-at ourselves, just last week!
You did the right thing, at the right time.
Buen camino, peregrina.

 

[Anniesantiago]

Buen Camino Luka!

 

[Felice]

As you say, Luka, oh the irony!!!! I've lost count of the number of times I have said 'I'm not doing this, going there or having the other' only to do the exact opposite not long afterwards.
Yet again the Camino has provided. For you, it has been the break that you needed to enable to cheerfully embrace the 'unique' experience of the last 100 km.
Buen camino.
Btw, lots and lots of albergues all along the way. No need to stay at the main stages at all. When I walked last Sept, I was really surprised as to how few pilgrims I met. There was one afternoon when I met no one at all for at last 10km.

 

[Luka]

Thanks again for your support! I think I made the right decision. This morning when I woke up I felt happy and relieved. Just after walking out of Sarria I saw familiar faces: people I stayed with in albergue Beilari in SJPP! I am in Portomarín now. They just asked if I'll join them at the pool ;-)

 

[LauraK]

So happy for you! What an amazing camino you are having! Enjoy the pool.

 

[Mike Savage]

That is wonderful news!

 

[NualaOC]

I love your attitude Luka. You're brave enough to change your plan when you know it's not working out for you, and you just keep on trucking! Hope you enjoyed that swim

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Luka,
Sorry I missed all of this. I was all wrapped up with walking into Santiago, seeing people, and doing my post-camino stuff. I see the Invierno did some messing with you. I'm glad you are fine, enjoying the new plan. Last year, when I arrived in Ponferrada from the Olvidado, I also chucked my plans to walk the Invierno because I was just too tired of being alone, and headed out on the Frances. I found that it was easy to miss the crowds, and I was surprised that I had forgotten how very beautiful that stretch of Camino is. Maybe you'll be back again someday to the Invierno. Reb and I will have an updated guide waiting for you! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[LauraK]

Laurie: did you and Reb encounter dogs on the Invietno? If so, was there any problem?

 

[peregrina2000]

My short answer is that there are loose dogs every now and then, but in the vast majority of cases, they didn't pay any attention to us. I am immediately unnerved by loose dogs (and have big scars on my right knee to explain why), but walking with Reb for four days helped me with that issue a lot. I just followed behind her and imitated her movements. On my own, I encountered a big loose dog, which is probably one that Luka encountered, a huge mastiff in the little village hamlet before ascending to Cornatel, whose name I will post when I have time to get all my notes together. The owner is a young guy who refuses to tie up his dog, and this dog barks fiercely at everyone. I met the owner of the casa rural there (who is also working on renovating a few other old houses in this hamlet), and he shared his frustration with this guy. It will take a proper denuncia to get any changes in behavior.

The only other time I ran into large barking loose dogs was in the little town of Eirexe/a (?) on the day into Lalin, I think it was. It was around 9 in the morning. I did what I suggested that Luka do, which is to just back up and stand and shout oiga till the owner appeared. I stay in sight of the dogs so that they keep barking, too, creating a lovely racket. (I have done this successfully on several solitary caminos -- if the dogs are out, the owners are around, and the combination of incessant barking and my shouting gets their attention). It may have made more sense for me to just forge ahead bravely, but part of my thinking is that the goal is to get the owners to tie up the dogs, and this seems like it is more annoying, and thus a better strategy, for that end.

I completely understand how this issue could build up in Luka's mind, and wind up dominating the entire camino, so I am not trying to be dismissive at all. Dogs plus total solitude can be a deal breaker, in my experience. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Oztrekker]

I know I am being selfish, but I am dissapointed you gave up. As i was enjoying reading your travel diary thread of the invierno.

Did you take a picture of the piscina. You can add it to my swimming the camino thread.

I did not go swimming in saria today as I had to do an 8km run back to triacastella to get my phone recharger and battery that I left behind.

Plus I dont feel like lap swimming today. So no entry for saria.

 

[Oztrekker]

Jeepers! what a delightful way to spend some time, and there i was on the camino frances eating a pepper steak telling unfunny jokes to fellow pilgrims.

Finally succeeded in posting a picture here with my tablet! This is the mother of Asún, who told me everything about her life (since 1923) sitting on that chair.

 

[KinkyOne]

Maybe I was just lucky last year for not encountered any loose dogs at all. But as few of previous posters mentioned they are mostly just barking.
Sorry to heat you have to change your plan, @Luka, but the Camino will be there whenever you are ready for it

 

[LauraK]

My short answer is that there are loose dogs every now and then, but in the vast majority of cases, they didn't pay any attention to us. I am immediately unnerved by loose dogs (and have big scars on my right knee to explain why), but walking with Reb for four days helped me with that issue a lot. I just followed behind her and imitated her movements. On my own, I encountered a big loose dog, which is probably one that Luka encountered, a huge mastiff in the little village hamlet before ascending to Cornatel, whose name I will post when I have time to get all my notes together. The owner is a young guy who refuses to tie up his dog, and this dog barks fiercely at everyone. I met the owner of the casa rural there (who is also working on renovating a few other old houses in this hamlet), and he shared his frustration with this guy. It will take a proper denuncia to get any changes in behavior.

The only other time I ran into large barking loose dogs was in the little town of Eirexe/a (?) on the day into Lalin, I think it was. It was around 9 in the morning. I did what I suggested that Luka do, which is to just back up and stand and shout oiga till the owner appeared. I stay in sight of the dogs so that they keep barking, too, creating a lovely racket. (I have done this successfully on several solitary caminos -- if the dogs are out, the owners are around, and the combination of incessant barking and my shouting gets their attention). It may have made more sense for me to just forge ahead bravely, but part of my thinking is that the goal is to get the owners to tie up the dogs, and this seems like it is more annoying, and thus a better strategy, for that end.

I completely understand how this issue could build up in Luka's mind, and wind up dominating the entire camino, so I am not trying to be dismissive at all. Dogs plus total solitude can be a deal breaker, in my experience. Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks Laurie. I had a lot of dogs in the Canino Sababres in March. I managed it but don't know that I want to go through it again...a few us okay, but I met to roaming packs of dogs that did scare me. The Invierno sounds nice and I would like to add it to my list. I look forward to reading your notes. Your information and recommendations are always so helpful.

 

[Luka]

@LauraK it was just that first unlucky day compared with my fear of dogs that did it. Because I saw loose dogs in four different villages / hamlets that day (all aggressively barking at me or blocking my way) it got into my head that they must be everywhere. I couldn't get rid of my fear anymore.

But @peregrina2000 is right: none of them really attacked me and I think I had just bad luck. Being with someone else would probably have been enough to get over it.

Off topic: still enjoying the Francés, will be walking into Santiago tomorrow for the very first time! Crowds aren't that enormous actually and this stretch is beautiful indeed!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Crowds aren't that enormous

Daily totals are down just a little bit as pilgrims bunch up to arrive for St. James Day on the 25th. You are just ahead of a big hump! If you will in Santiago through the 25th, make sure you have securely obtained a bed. Well done.

 

[Oztrekker]

Tell me about it, its busy back with me.

 

[Luka]

@falcon269 I was already guessing this was the reason. Well, the crowds can have Santiago all to themselves the 25th!

 

[Oztrekker]

Accomodation is scarce, doubt there will be anything in azura unless you want to start walking at 430am.

Plus there phone booking out the privates.

 

[KinkyOne]

@LauraK it was just that first unlucky day compared with my fear of dogs that did it. Because I saw loose dogs in four different villages / hamlets that day (all aggressively barking at me or blocking my way) it got into my head that they must be everywhere. I couldn't get rid of my fear anymore.

But @peregrina2000 is right: none of them really attacked me and I think I had just bad luck. Being with someone else would probably have been enough to get over it.

Off topic: still enjoying the Francés, will be walking into Santiago tomorrow for the very first time! Crowds aren't that enormous actually and this stretch is beautiful indeed!

Wow, first timer?!!! Special congratulation you deserve!!!

If I remember well you have time to 29th. Do go to Muxia and Finisterre. It's another highlight and very special places. Not so many people and well marked!

Enjoy, Luka, you deserve it!!!

 

[LauraK]

Luka: So happy to hear you are walking into Santiago. I have enjoyed "joining" you on your camino. I hope it was everything you hoped for...if not, then everything you needed.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi Luka,

This message comes too late but I just wanted you to know that I followed all your post in the Forum when I did the Invierno this summer - I was just one week behind you. You prepared me mentally for the dogs! I wasn't too afraid of them but they were VERY annoying. When I heard them barking for the 5th time for the 5th village in a row... I was like "What is this place?!" :O)

On 1st stage, at the castle before As Médulas, I came up from a turn on the road, walking right into a herd of sheep with two big dogs (of the infamous breed: Larger-Than-German-Shepherds-Breed). They were startled, and as I was practically walking right into their herd... Go figure. Fortunately the owner was there, yelling at them to leave me alone, but their protective instincts seemed to have taken the upper hand. No bites, but that was a close one...

With more pilgrims, I think dogs will disappear or at least be chained...

Please let us know if you will finish the Invierno some time

Ciaoooo

/BP