I am interested if anyone has any current information on the Via Domitia? The GR653D starting from Montgenevre to Arles. Route conditions, accomodations, etc.? Tentative start in September.
Here is my story – very different.
I am not young (still 69+ some months), but I’m a little bit experienced. I’m walking for my own pleasure – nothing else! This time I had planned for Oulx – Montgenèvre – Sisteron, 11 days of walking in the end of June/beginning of July 2014.
In my research/planning I cut out the “map corridor”, measure the path and reasonable stages. Most of them were acc. to proposals, some were too long for me. I also obtained info about the lodging possibilities from several sources. Tourist Offices (TO) are extremely valuable, I marked them on the map. There is a railway parallel to Via Domitia a good deal of first part, I printed the daily connections. I bring no cell phone or smart phone, no GPS, just my maps and information. I cannot say either lodging or food was expensive! As some gîtes etc often were located far from villages, half board was perfect.
I went by train from Torino to Oulx, arrived in the middle of the day. Went to the TO, they made a reservation in Cesana Torinese. For the next night I had asked from home for a bed in Villar de Pachras – it was there for me! As well as in l’Argentiere de la Bessée and Mont Dauphine. The next stage was too long and I took the train from Mont Dauphine to Embrun. Walking to Savine le Lac – again a helpful TO and I got a flat with a broad view J Over the bridge – St Apollinaire – Chorges. TO in Chorges - a young woman with real “feeling” - not just found a “chalet” on the camping for me that night but also knew exactly what the perfect for a pilgrim would be the next night: The “sanctuary” Notre Dame de Laus!!! And I was SO happy to participate in “the light procession” and “Maria-celebration”!!! Next I didn’t follow Via Domitia to Gap and Tallard, but went “across” to Venterol and found l’Aphodele Eco-Gîte – a wonderful place, where there is always a six-bed-room available for pilgrims! Delicious vegetarian food prepared by the owner Christoph Ubaud. Next – again an extremely helpful TO, by the Via Ferrata in Le Caire!!! Lodging outside La Motte du Caire (Relais ‘equestre) and then - across the Terre Basse vally - I chose my own way – the road – and came across two monasteries: Brothers of St Jean and (by mistake – went wrong) also the sisters of St Jean! St Geniez (Relais équestre too). In Sisteron I had a reservation from home, as I went by train to Geneva the next day.
The waymarks are mostly very good, sometimes less good. There is often 2-3 different paths together, also very local ones, as fitness-parcours etc. When you see one mark here, another there, not all together at the same time, you think you maybe not noticed that “your” way deviated. That’s why I always bring good maps – also I can walk a road “around” instead of a steep, slippery path over a mountain.
I had a wonderful walk! No problems at all! I met with so many helpful people and experienced so much of generosity/friendliness. Maybe my appearance “a greyhaired small old woman with a big backpack” got their hearts to melt