Typical day on the Le Puy route?

[Betseylou]

Hi, Everyone! First time camino and I'm starting in Le Puy on Sept. 3 and going all the way. Since I've never done it before, I don't really know what to expect, and I'd like to be somewhat prepared. I will also be going by myself.

I found a thread that talks about what to expect on the CF, and in that thread someone mentioned that a typical day on the Le Puy is very different from the CF, but did not elaborate beyond that.

So, what is a typical day like? How is it different? What can I expect? Are the walking hours different? It sounds like most people on the CF try to stop walking by 2, but I saw a thread here where someone was told to be somewhere for pickup at 5 pm.

What are meal times? Do places close in the afternoon? Weekends?

I have my copy of MMDD. Is calling ahead that morning enough time? Are there specific hours for making reservations? Do you have to be there by a certain time after making a reservation?

Also, if I'm spending ~80 days on the camino, will I need more than one passport?

Do I need separate plug adaptors for France and Spain?

Thanks for the help!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Expect to hear only French; you will then be pleasantly surprised when you hear some English. The French, who are the vast majority of the pilgrims on the route, all call ahead and reserve a day or two ahead. So the day starts gently, and ends when at the destination. If you have not reserved, your destination may not be your destination! Lodging and food are a bit more expensive. Demi-pension is about 33E and includes the bed, dinner, and breakfast (bread, confiture, and coffee). Meal times in restaurants are late, 1900 or so, which is not as late as Spain, though pilgrim stops will serve dinner at 1900 in Spain as well. Most stores close Sunday and Monday, and close midday for a couple of hours on the other days. You need to plan your shopping and eating accordingly. I have wandered around towns Sunday evening to find everything closed. Dinner reservations are necessary in some restaurants. They buy food for just so many diners, feed them, then close for the evening. Hosts do not sit around waiting for pilgrims. They will spontaneously close if they are expecting anyone, and go visit the family or town. Churches are open more often than in Spain, but if a church is closed, knock on some nearby doors or ask at bars about getting a key.

France and Spain use the same plug adapter. One with a USB port is handy for recharging many devices.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Hi, Everyone! First time camino and I'm starting in Le Puy on Sept. 3 and going all the way. Since I've never done it before, I don't really know what to expect, and I'd like to be somewhat prepared. I will also be going by myself.

I found a thread that talks about what to expect on the CF, and in that thread someone mentioned that a typical day on the Le Puy is very different from the CF, but did not elaborate beyond that.

So, what is a typical day like? How is it different? What can I expect? Are the walking hours different? It sounds like most people on the CF try to stop walking by 2, but I saw a thread here where someone was told to be somewhere for pickup at 5 pm.

What are meal times? Do places close in the afternoon? Weekends?

I have my copy of MMDD. Is calling ahead that morning enough time? Are there specific hours for making reservations? Do you have to be there by a certain time after making a reservation?

Also, if I'm spending ~80 days on the camino, will I need more than one passport?

Do I need separate plug adaptors for France and Spain?

Thanks for the help!

Falcon has pretty much covered it. Other things I would add is unlike Spain where there tends to be a cafe every few kms most stages, they are alot more rare in France. You can though normally buy bread etc and sometimes sandwiches in the local boulangerie before you head off (assuming there is one). Plan your day according to services en route which normally means bringing lunch and snacks with you. As Falcon points out watch out for shops being closed on certain days.

Take your time the first couple of weeks on the Chemin as although its not overly difficult it is up and down so people sometimes overextend themselves.... The guidebooks tend to assume a high level of fitness. My advice is have a look at the elevations and base distances on your fitness and energy levels. I did low mileage the first couple of weeks and was very glad of it. Plus its gorgeous scenery so you will be glad you took your time.

Keep an eye on cash levels. The Chemin passes through many small villages and many don't have banks. The MMD tells you which places have an ATM so you don't get caught short.

The French like if you make an effort to speak French no matter how terrible the standard or how basic. Its seen as a basic courtesy there.

I also think its important to repeat what Falcon says about reserving ahead. Unlike Spain where you can rock up to some places unannounced, French hosts prefer a little notice so they can get enough food in for the evening meals etc. The best time to phone is the afternoon a day or two before especially if you want demipension. Otherwise you risk having to walk another few miles to the next place.

The Le Puy Route is beautiful. You will have an amazing time I am sure of it

 

[Betseylou]

Thanks, I appreciate the replies. I have some basic French. I took 4 years in high school, which doesn't mean much, but I know basic grammar and enough vocabulary that it will probably help. I'm nowhere near conversational, but I won't be totally lost, only mostly lost. As long as they're not too bothered by my terrible accent, I will try.

I am planning on easing into it, but I'm not really sure what that means yet.

I'm definitely planning on doing the demi-pension. It seems like the best way to go.

Are there specific times that places close or does it vary? 12 pm, 2 pm? Are places closed all day Monday, or just the first part of the day?

If I do want to eat at a restaurant for lunch, is there a proper time for that? Or should I just plan on packing a lunch every day?

 

[Kanga]

@Betseylou it will all fall into place easily once you get there. We have walked the Le Puy route twice and absolutely loved it. There is a friendly group of Amis in Le Puy who welcome new pilgrims - they meet every evening between April and October from 5:30pm at 2 Rue de Manécantare. Every day at 7am there is a mass in the Cathedral with a pilgrim blessing at the end, and the opportunity to get a credentiale and stamp and to buy any of the guidebooks in the well stocked Cathedral bookstore. It is also rather nice to start your walk from the Cathedral with the other pilgrims, through the old streets, which means leaving your accommodation before 7am, with your backpack. My husband was not prepared to sacrifice his hotel breakfast, but I was!

We only walk as far as Montbonnet the first night. In France I book the first two nights accommodation before leaving home - because jet lag makes me stupid for the first few days and the fewer decisions the better. After that I book one day ahead unless I know it will be very busy. If you lack confidence in speaking French your hosts at the local gite will happily make the phone call for you, and will provide advice. On the Le Puy route the section between Le Puy and Conques is the busiest, after that it is pretty much ok.

We book Demi-pension whenever it is available. It invariably is in the smaller towns that do not have a restaurant alternative or if the local restaurant will be closed - but you do need to ask when you book, so that shopping can be done. The French use fresh ingredients!. We also buy lunch provisions whenever the opportunity arises because the next village may not have a shop or it may be closed. Sundays and Mondays, as pointed out, just about everything is closed all day, so buy stuff on Saturday for snacks.

 

[Kitsambler]

September is the most popular walking month, so please make reservations to avoid disappointment. The bakeries and stores in the smaller towns will be closed on the days and hours you need them; so plan on carrying extra food. Breakfast, such as it is, will be served usually at 7, with most pilgrims departing by 7:30 or 8. Most French have lunch from 12-2; this includes stores and offices, and shops apart from food places. Many private lodgings will not accept you before 3 pm; best plan to arrive no later than 5 pm so your reservation does not vaporize. Dinner will be served family style and multiple courses: soup, main, possibly salad, a dessert. Wine will be included. The Le puy route is very different from the CF in Spain; one-tenth the number of walkers, so there is one-tenth the infrastructure.

 

[newfydog]

Are there specific times that places close or does it vary? 12 pm, 2 pm? Are places closed all day Monday, or just the first part of the day?

If I do want to eat at a restaurant for lunch, is there a proper time for that? Or should I just plan on packing a lunch every day?

You can't even get arrested between 12 and 2, (or on a Monday). If you want lunch in a restaurant, it is only served between 12 and 2.

After Sept 1 reservations are not so important. We did not make a single one and never had trouble, though we don't mind upgrading if things are full.

 

[irishgurrrl]

Thanks, I appreciate the replies. I have some basic French. I took 4 years in high school, which doesn't mean much, but I know basic grammar and enough vocabulary that it will probably help. I'm nowhere near conversational, but I won't be totally lost, only mostly lost. As long as they're not too bothered by my terrible accent, I will try.

I am planning on easing into it, but I'm not really sure what that means yet.

I'm definitely planning on doing the demi-pension. It seems like the best way to go.

Are there specific times that places close or does it vary? 12 pm, 2 pm? Are places closed all day Monday, or just the first part of the day?

If I do want to eat at a restaurant for lunch, is there a proper time for that? Or should I just plan on packing a lunch every day?

Hey there, as mentioned don't worry you will soon find your rhythm on this route. Packed lunch is normally the way to go. You can sometimes get something in a village along the way but its not usual. The MMD has info on services en route which is handy. DP is a good option alright but also keep an eye out for places you can cook too. A meal shared with other pilgrims is lovely. Your passport should last til St Jean P de P but you may need to get a new one there to last til Santiago. Shops wise I checked the evening before (opening hours were normally on the shop or boulangerie door or window) and bought that evening if necessary. Best of luck!

 

[SSAY]

Bienvenue en France ! French people are always happy if you try first to talk french with them ! Then they will do their best to speak english with you too ! Enjoy funny conversations
I will walk Le Puy - Compostelle too, but 2 weeks in advance compare to you ! Buen camino !

 

[edandjoan]

Enjoying this new thread and the excitement is building as we will be in Le Puy in a month. We have been practicing our French, but feel it will not be enough and know the different areas will have different accents. We will try. We booked two nights in Le Puy as it will take about 24 hours to get there...an overnight flight and then train from Paris. Then a night in Montbonnet. Perhaps we will get the tourist office in Le Puy to help us book another night beyond Montbonnet. And then we hope to book just a day or two ahead as we walk. We plan to attend the evening meeting in Le Puy and morning mass before we start our walk. We look forward to enjoying the scenery and meeting the people and know that we will be stretching ourselves as we try and communicate and hope it will grow us.
Bon chemin!

 

[Betseylou]

Thanks! This is all so helpful. I know things will work out, but knowing a bit more of what to expect sure helps.

I'm definitely planning on attending the morning mass. I didn't know about the evening meeting.

I will be arriving into Le Puy late on the 1st, and planning on spending the next day seeing the sights before starting out on the 3rd. I do not have reservations anywhere yet.

 

[The_Moo]

This is a very helpful thread - thank you everyone!

I'm planning fairly spontaneously to start from Le Puy in September. Can I get a pilgrim passport (what are they called in French - anyone know?) in Le Puy? Going with a friend who hasn't been on a camino before, is there a possibility that he can get a scallop shell in Le Puy, the way I did in SJPdP?

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Can I get a pilgrim passport (what are they called in French - anyone know?) in Le Puy? is there a possibility that he can get a scallop shell in Le Puy, the way I did in SJPdP?

La « crédenciale » (= passeport du pèlerin) is available at the cathedral when it is open (hours a bit irregular).

Many stores have scallops. They are typically closed Sunday and Monday, and between 1400 and 1700. Bon chemin.

 

[The_Moo]

Merci Falcon!

 

[JohnSD]

Hi Betsey,

I did the exact same route a few months ago, leaving from Le Puy on May 17 and arriving in Santiago de Compostela on July 4.
I walked the entire Via Podiensis (Le Puy route) but in Spain I did roughly 450 kms on a bike as I didn't have enough time to walk the walk Camino Frances.

The Puy route is gorgeous, especially between Le Puy and Cahors. I am sure you will love the Aubrac mountains and places like Conques or Figeac.

I walked this route during the peak season and I never had to make a reservation. You may want to call and place a reservation the same morning if you absolutely want to stay at a specific "gite" but as long as you are flexible that won't be needed.
The walking hours are different for every person. I was there during a heat wave and I would see most people start in the morning at around 7:00 and finish at 2:00 or 3;00 PM. But myself I would typically walk from 8:00 PM to 6:00 PM, taking time to visit places, take pictures and rest a bit.

In small villages most bakeries, butchers and tiny groceries stores close between 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM. It is always a good idea to buy a sandwich in the morning for later. But also most villages have restaurants if you can't find anything else.
In France many stores close on Sunday afternoon and sometimes all Monday as well. But it doesn't happen often that you can't find something to eat on the Camino.

You can get the "credential" from the cathedral in Le Puy right after the pilgrim mass that takes place every day at 7:00 AM. The mass is in French and pretty formal but right after the mass is over the priest gather all the pilgrims and ask them where they are from. It is a great way to meet the fellow pilgrims that you will run into on the Camino day after day. At the end, they open a little gift shop at the back of the cathedral where you can get the "credential". They suggest a donation of 5 euros. I believe the credential has 64 boxes, one for each stamp. You don't need to get a stamp every day in order to get the "compostela" (certificate) in Santiago but if it's important to you then you can always get 2 credentials.

Buen Camino!

 

[Betseylou]

@JohnSD Thank you so much for your wonderfully specific answer! What type of accommodation did you get? Did you ever do DP, or did that not work with your style of walking and not reserving ahead? I am a bit nervous of planning exactly how far I'm going to go in a certain day ahead of time, since you never know what that day will bring, but I also like the certainty of having a meal waiting for me at the end.

 

[Kitsambler]

I took demi-pension every time it was offered, and managed to eat in restaurants only perhaps once a week, on both years I walked the Le Puy route. There are several blogs up, that give stages and stopovers -- you can get a good idea of the distances others have travelled. Check the blog addresses in the signature blocks of the various posters in the forum section.

 

[JohnSD]

@Betseylou I stayed in "gites communaux" (municipal hostels) and private "gites" most of the time.
Now that I think about it, there was one place that I booked far in advance and that was the "Auberge Du Sauvage En Gevaudan" near Chaneleilles.
Yes I did a lot of "demi-pension" whenever it was available. Again, most of the time it is not required to have a reservation to get DP. If you arrive at 5:00 PM or earlier that will never be a problem. Also most "gites" in France have a kitchen so cooking yourself is also an alternative.

If you want the peace of mind, you can call a "gite" at around 12 PM. Usually by noon you have a pretty good idea of how far you will go and the "gites" will still have availability at this time.

 

[Betseylou]

Thanks for your input. I've decided that I shouldn't worry so much about not going as far as I might be able to. I've given myself plenty of extra time, so I should just relax and not worry about it. I will follow what others have said and try to reserve ahead, but it is nice to have your perspective as well, and know that it's not the end of the world if I don't reserve!

I'm one week out from getting on a plane, and I just need to stop worrying and let the camino happen.

 

[Rellrog]

We are three quarters of the way through it. I agree with the above but want to add a few things. The feel of the Chemin is very different. The French are on their Rondenee and you will not hear Bon Chemin very much at least in the first half. Lots of Bon Jours. I expected the quantity of French people and the French language but i didnt realiz how that would affect me. I spent many days at a dining table not understanding much, wanting to contribute but couldn't. Very few French speak English and no matter how I planned for it, it still didn't feel good. I loved the Frances because 50% of my enjoyment of the Frances were the people and the communication. This wasn't there on the Le Puy. I am glad I am here and completing the Le Puy, but if the Camino is your first time I highly recommend the Frances. The feel is totally different. Most of the Le Puy is about the Rondonee and not about the Camino and the pilgrimage. Would be interested in your opinion when you finish!

 

[Betseylou]

Thank you for that insight. I don't really know what to expect, but I think I'll be ok. I do know a very little French, but it certainly won't be any help around a dinner table. I'm looking forward to walking and being alone in my thoughts, so I think the Le Puy will be a good beginning for me. Maybe by the time I get on the Frances I will be ready to welcome more what that Camino has to offer.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The Chemin du Puy is with the French. The Camino Frances is with the pilgrims. (In my experience.) They are quite different. You need to be a bit more self contained in France, or take a friend.

 

[Rellrog]

Agree with Falcon. I would also suggest traveling with someone...even if its meeting someone on the walk. The reason is the signs are not always clear. Read the Miam Miam Dodo carefully or the signage can be misunderstood. Follow the White and red and forget the others. Also, because of the lack "direct" non-road paths and land ownership politics you will often add mileage to your daily trip. We occasionally took the country road to avoid the circuitous route. The roads can have frequent cars and can be dangerous. Also, you will find very few signs of town names and even fewer signs telling you distance to the next town. Sooo... I suggest studying the Miam maps carefully before leaving. Finally, there are often no towns for long distances or there are very small towns without cafes. The Rondonee crowd packs a lunch and avoids the problem that the long distance pilgrim has. When your backpack is already heavy you may not want to carry a lot of water or food. Also, one thing that got old very quickly is calling ahead for reservations. Having to call multiple times before finding a place...and in French...is trying. Especially when tired. We try to call two days ahead. I much prefer the freedom of deciding how far to walk on the day of the walk...as we did on the Frances. All this said, the landscape and architecture is fabulous.

 

[Rellrog]

Sundays and Mondays, especially in the smaller towns will find everything closed. So, if you are travelling, bring food and water. Especially on those days get the demi- pension so you will have a supper. Generally the food there is good...especially if you can stay at a chambres d'hôtes. Yesterday at Miramont Sensacq we had one of our best meals so far...we are just beyond Aire Sur L'dore and entering Basque region.

 

[Betseylou]

Thanks for your posts. I will make sure to pack food, and I'm hoping to get demi-pension as much as I can.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I'm hoping to get demi-pension as much as I can.

Call ahead and be sure it is part of your reservation. The French are daily shoppers, and the chambres refrigerator is not usually stocked to feed unexpected guests. I even dined in a restaurant on a Saturday night that turned away all the customers after our party because they had no more food. It was closed Sundays, and planned only a certain amount of food for the week (information courtesy of an English speaking French woman who adopted us).

 

[Betseylou]

We are three quarters of the way through it. I agree with the above but want to add a few things. The feel of the Chemin is very different. The French are on their Rondenee and you will not hear Bon Chemin very much at least in the first half. Lots of Bon Jours. I expected the quantity of French people and the French language but i didnt realiz how that would affect me. I spent many days at a dining table not understanding much, wanting to contribute but couldn't. Very few French speak English and no matter how I planned for it, it still didn't feel good. I loved the Frances because 50% of my enjoyment of the Frances were the people and the communication. This wasn't there on the Le Puy. I am glad I am here and completing the Le Puy, but if the Camino is your first time I highly recommend the Frances. The feel is totally different. Most of the Le Puy is about the Rondonee and not about the Camino and the pilgrimage. Would be interested in your opinion when you finish!

I absolutely loved it! I had a wonderful experience. Everyone was so kind and patient and friendly. I knew enough French that I could communicate reasonably well. Kind of. I had a few nights like you describe, but most of the time at least one person knew some English. I did get much better at understanding French, though not speaking it. But everyone was so nice. I loved everything about Le Puy. My level of interaction was perfect for me, but I am a definite introvert.

I ran into a few people who had walked in Spain before, and they all told me it would be better when I got to Spain. I guess it depends what you like, though, and there was really very little that I liked about Spain. I probably would have had a different experience if I had done Spain before France, but since I did France first, Spain could not even compare. For me, everything about France was better. The walk, the path, the landscape, the villages (and the lack of huge cities), the food (especially the food), the beds, the churches (you could go in every single church without paying, and it was rare to find one closed. All of the churches in Spain were locked, except for the ones you could pay to get in.). And I just plain liked the feeling of it more. It felt more personal. Most of the gite owners were passionate about what they were doing, and it felt like they were inviting you into their home. Spain seemed much more impersonal in general, to me.

I know the camino is different for everyone, but I absolutely adored France. But, I know my experience would have been different if I didn't understand French as much as I did.

 

[LeiaLane]

Hi,
I have few questions about Le Puy:
1. Is there hairdryer at Demi-pension?
I got terrible headache during CF without dry my hair.
2. Do they have cloth lines for laundry? Or only washer dryer available?
3. i brought sleep bag with me this April on CF route. Do I need sleep bag for Le Puy too? Will start at April 20 2017.
Thank you !!!

Jennifer

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Hair dryers are likely to be rare. There are clothes lines almost everywhere, but it might be useful to bring one with you; it won't weigh much. Washer and dryer are somewhat rare, but the number is increasing as the number of pilgrims increases. In April you probably will want a sleeping bag. The higher elevations may be cold.