Camino Portuguese Review

[jbrehove]

I just got back from walking the Camino Portugese and thought I would give a review for those thinking about doing this pilgrimage. My wife and I walked the Camino Frances from SJPDP in 2013 and it was a wonderful experience. We wanted to relive that along the Camino Portuguese this year. We walked from Tomar, about 300 miles in 18 days of walking. We took a rest day in Porto. The Camino Portuguese is far different from the Camino Frances. Most of the walk is on asphalt or cobblestone streets of cities and between cities. I would guess no more than 10% is along dirt paths or farm roads that are common on the Camino Frances. The traffic on some of the streets is quite heavy, and when combined with narrow or no sidewalks, it can get downright dangerous at times. The cities you visit are not medieval villages like on the Camino Frances, but modern cities. There are very few pilgrims south of Porto. In fact, we did not meet any pilgrims until we got to Porto. That is 8 days without meeting another pilgrim. We became friends with two pilgrims on the day leaving Porto and walked with them to Santiago. After Tui, the 100k point, the number of pilgrims is quite large. There is little opportunity to attend Mass in Portugal. In fact, we only had one such opportunity in our 13 days in Portugal, and that was in Porto during our rest day. We passed many churches, but they were all closed. We were in Algberaria on a Sunday, and got there as their only Mass was finishing. Once in Spain, each city had a 8pm pilgrim Mass like on the Camino Frances. So, in summary, the sometimes unpleasant walking conditions, lack of fellow pilgrims, and absence of Masses made this seem like more of a long walk than a pilgrimage. On the positive side, the Portuguese are the most generous, friendly, and honest people I have ever met. Some of the cities are tremendous and great places to visit. Tomar, Coimbra, and Porto especially stand out. The food is excellent. The pastries and piglet are memorable, but almost everything we ate was delicious. It is very affordable. A pilgrim meal is 6 euro, and as long as you are not in a tourist area, you can have an excellent dinner with drinks in a nice restaurant for 14 euro. Since there are so few pilgrims, most of the accommodations south of Porto are hostals where you typically get a private room with shared or private bath for 15 euro per person. North of Porto, most cities have albergues which are similar in quality and price to the Camino Frances.

 

[Anamya]

Are you able to say which one you liked most?

My husband and I are enchanted by the Camino Frances we just finished and we were planning to do Portuguese from Porto next year. Sincerely, would you recommend CP?

Thanks for the review!

 

[Scott Sweeney]

We found it very strange that the Camino took you around many of the towns and rarely past the churches. Road walking was not enjoyable.
Glad we did it but no real desire to return to that route. We did meet some wonderful people though!

 

[Magwood]

I walked the portuguese from Lisbon last year. It is true there is a lot of road walking and some of it quite intimidating, but it was certainly nowhere near 90%. There are many beautiful woods and forests to walk through and sections along riverbanks and many km's along agricultural tracks.

I posted every day to my blog with photos and descriptions - http://www.magwood.me/camino-portuguese/

 

[judydaisy]

Are you able to say which one you liked most?

My husband and I are enchanted by the Camino Frances we just finished and we were planning to do Portuguese from Porto next year. Sincerely, would you recommend CP?

Thanks for the review!

 

[judydaisy]

Absolutely loved it. Okay, only had the time to walk from Tui but it was great. Certainly not 90% road walking although there was some but mostly not main roads. Take the detour too, to avoid the industrial estate after Tui (momentary memory lapse of name!). We managed Mass every evening too. Emailing cathedral in Santiago before trip gave us all the mass times en route. Spring is wonderful, loads of flowers, really colourful.
Go for it! Buen camino

 

[jbrehove]

Regarding a recommendation... I hesitate to give one because it is a personal thing. Some people like it, others not so much. We walked with another couple who did the Frances, Norte, and Primitivo previously. They thought the Camino Portuguese was the least enjoyable. We met a pilgrim who walked from Lisbon, got lost on his 5th day, and got so disgusted that he bussed to Porto, and had a good time after that. I would not do the Portuguese again. I will say that it gets much nicer north of Porto, and is actually pretty enjoyable north of Tui... but by then you are almost done, only 10 days after Porto and 5 after Tui. South of Porto it is just not an enjoyable walk, in my opinion. Some have disagreed with my estimate of 90% roads. That is probably too high, there is over 10% non hard surface, but a good part of that are dirt roads through areas that are not that enjoyable to go through... certainly not the same as what you see the majority of the time on the Frances.

Regarding the person who got lossed, that was on the way to Tomar, and I have read that there can be some confusion on that stage (he followed yellow arrows that led him 15k away from his destination). I walked from Tomar and can say that the markings were excellent. Yellow arrows everywhere, you almost dont need a guide book. And the Portuguese are so nice that they will go out of their way to help you find your way if you do get lost.

 

[Magwood]

I imagine also that a lot depends on the time of year one walks. I walked in spring, setting off from Lisbon on 2 May, and it was really beautiful with the colourful flowers and newly planted crops. I guess at this time of year it's all a bit dry and monotone.

I remember a couple of days that I found a real slog, but that leaves over 25 that I thoroughly enjoyed.

 

[Marc S.]

Are you able to say which one you liked most? My husband and I are enchanted by the Camino Frances we just finished and we were planning to do Portuguese from Porto next year. Sincerely, would you recommend CP? Thanks for the review!

I can not say which one I liked most and I try not to compare the Camino's that I have done, as they are all different. However, I would definitely recommend the Camino Portuguese. I walked it from Porto last year, and there are many reasons to walk it. There may be a bit of roadwalking, but not all the time and it includes lovely walks through forests and green hills as well, and it passes some nice old towns (Ponte de Lima, Valenca, Pontevreda, etc). I found Portugal and the Portuguese very welcoming, maybe they are just not that used yet to pilgrims (although the CP is getting increasingly popular). But anway, just go for it ! ; just try not to expect the same experience as the one you had on the Frances.

 

[peregrina2000]

I've walked the Caminho from Lisbon and I think a lot depends on your expectations and how prepared you are. If you get lost, you have to ask for help. The Via Lusitana has a 24/7 SOS pilgrim phone number (see their website) and they speak English, German, French, and Portuguese. They know every inch of the route south of Porto and can easily help you out. If you take the forum guides, though, which are a group effort by forum members like Maggie, Claudia, Michael SG, Albertinho and many others, you are less likely to get lost though. They are in the resources section of the forum. It is true that there is a lot of asphalt especially in the early stages out of Lisbon (but I agree with those who say 90% is a big overstatement), but many forum members have had experiences similar to Maggie's. Like Maggie, I would highly recommend spring -- more colorful landscape and more pilgrims.

I am used to walking alone and freuently walk caminos where I meet no other pilgrims for weeks, but I know it gets hard on the spirit sometimes. Especially for people who don't speak Portuguese and can't have a conversation with the folks in the restaurant, the owners of the albergue, etc, though I assume many of them speak excellent English. As the numbers increase, and as the number of albergues increase, the pilgrim spirit inevitably increases, too. And I have never had an experience that would contradict the opinion that the Portuguese are some of the nicest people on the planet. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[elizason]

I walked the portuguese from Lisbon last year. It is true there is a lot of road walking and some of it quite intimidating, but it was certainly nowhere near 90%. There are many beautiful woods and forests to walk through and sections along riverbanks and many km's along agricultural tracks.

I posted every day to my blog with photos and descriptions - http://www.magwood.me/camino-portuguese/

Magwood
Thank you for your detailed, very helpful blog.
It has guided me in directions that are finally making sense Hip Hip Hooreh !
I feel as though I have changed my plans so many times that I am in a constant spinning state of mind.
The idea of doing Day 3 on a Sunday is spectacular.
Much appreciated
Eliza

 

[KatWanderlust]

Laurie and Maggie as always your comments are (in my humble opinion) so on point!

I walked from Santarem to Santiago/Finisterre in 2013 and while this was a very different Camino, it was still magical. The walk to Porto was very quiet, I think we saw maybe 2 pilgrims if that so it's good if you enjoy your own company or have a walking buddy (I bring my Dad!)

The Portuguese people we met along the way in bars, Albergues, restaurants or just on the Camino itself stood out the most. They showed us nothing but kindness and friendliness which was hugely appreciated after the long days in the heat and then torrential rain. When a total stranger offers you icy cold drinks for free, access to their home for water, their shed to change into rain gear or to simply express their wonder that you came to their country to walk? Priceless. Not to mention the food, wow, the food. And while there is road walking I still found this Way extremely pretty in it's own way.

I 100% agree with Laurie - with more people walking the more the Pilgrim Spirit will infuse this great Camino.

 

[Kip]

Regarding a recommendation... I hesitate to give one because it is a personal thing. Some people like it, others not so much. We walked with another couple who did the Frances, Norte, and Primitivo previously. They thought the Camino Portuguese was the least enjoyable. We met a pilgrim who walked from Lisbon, got lost on his 5th day, and got so disgusted that he bussed to Porto, and had a good time after that. I would not do the Portuguese again. I will say that it gets much nicer north of Porto, and is actually pretty enjoyable north of Tui... but by then you are almost done, only 10 days after Porto and 5 after Tui. South of Porto it is just not an enjoyable walk, in my opinion. Some have disagreed with my estimate of 90% roads. That is probably too high, there is over 10% non hard surface, but a good part of that are dirt roads through areas that are not that enjoyable to go through... certainly not the same as what you see the majority of the time on the Frances.

Regarding the person who got lossed, that was on the way to Tomar, and I have read that there can be some confusion on that stage (he followed yellow arrows that led him 15k away from his destination). I walked from Tomar and can say that the markings were excellent. Yellow arrows everywhere, you almost dont need a guide book. And the Portuguese are so nice that they will go out of their way to help you find your way if you do get lost.[/QUOT

Are you able to say which one you liked most?

My husband and I are enchanted by the Camino Frances we just finished and we were planning to do Portuguese from Porto next year. Sincerely, would you recommend CP?

Thanks for the review!

I would strongly recommend the Porto-Santiago CP!! I did some minimal pre-trip research and 90% (since that seems to be a popular number in this thread) said that Lisbon to Porto was more asphalt and highways and had limited accommodations. So, I didn't do it.

I flew into Porto, stayed three nights and had a wonderful time adjusting to Portugal. I then took a train just north of the outskirts of the city. This was my first camino and was being cautious in this planning cause I'd read that walking in large cities can be a problem, re: following the yellow way markers. I found this Portuguese 'north of Porto' route to be wonderful, blissful and tranquil. The people were always so generous and kind.

Many long, long stretches of peaceful rural settings and long, long stretches of ancient pathways. Dare I say it, 90%. Very, very few busy roads to speak of. A few times, I would chuckle to myself cause I would hear a car in the distance. It gets...busier once one crosses into Spain. From Tui onwards, it does seem/feel more like traveling from one city to another, as opposed to portugal's traveling from one rural village to another. But again, the pathways are marvelous when outside the city.

The last 100km just flat out has more pilgrims, but that adjustment (I like peace and quiet) just became an integral part of the growing anticipation, and reason, of reaching Santiago. To be part of an incredible event. The groups singing along the way as opposed to the quiet. Who can complain!!! Who can complain!!!

But I will unabashedly say that I loved the Portugal part of the journey best. And because I was way ahead of my initial "schedule", was able to bus back from Santiago to Valenca, and backtrack to Porto following the blue and green arrows which only added to the experience and fun cause I revisited countless places that I had fallen in love with originally!!

I heard many, many times, too, that if you can do any part of the coastal route.... People I spoke with would just get this far off look in their eyes as if they were still there.... They loved it. Wish I'd been able to walk that.

And if you go the CP way, make a long day walking, or a short day, but stay at Casa Fernanda. She and, equally, her husband, Jocinta, are truly marvelous and wonderful and happily welcoming. They love, and one cannot help but feel that.

 

[Anamya]

I would strongly recommend the Porto-Santiago CP!!

For Santiago's sake, Kip! Your post just made me want to jump into a plane NOW!

 

[amancio]

I have not gone south of Porto, but from Porto to Tui, it is a beautiful walk. I followed the walk by the river down to the sea (a beautiful walk), then followed the coast to Vila do Conde (likewise a very comforting walk by the seaside), then from Vila do Conde to Rates, you do find a bit of cobblestones and heavy traffic at places, but it is just a few hours. San Pedro de Rates is a beautiful little town, Barcelos is an amazing historical city, I wish I had had more time to stay there and visit it thoroughly, Ponte de Lima is fabulous, Casa Fernanda is a unique experience, and then the walk to Valença is great and rural too.

Absolutely worth it, in my opinion, Portuguese people are very welcoming and friendly, food is cheap, good and plentiful... a unique experience, indeed!

 

[Camembert]

To all complainers.. Better walk the CF. That overcrowded bed race camino.
Then there will be more room for them who like the caminho Portugese and enjoy the kindness of the Portugese people, the beautiful landscapes and medieval towns, the excellent food and wines.
Wish you well. Period.

 

[amsimoes]

When you are going to do the way you have to think if you want to make the original path or want to stroll through the countryside.
The Caminho Central Português (Central Way Portuguese) is outlined by the journey made by Queen Santa Isabel of Portugal. Already there are sections of road that are no longer the original, but to a large extent the original path is respected (Real road from Lisbon to Oporto).
If thou wilt go from Lisbon to Santiago by dirt roads, you can do it, but it's not the original path. Just last week I made the Camino Inglés ( English Way) of the city of Ferrol to Santiago and you do not tell me that this line of 5 km before Sigueiro matches the original path, it's a detour to tourists.
Of course the road to advancing the centuries have been improved and the nineteenth and twentieth centuries they were paved.

 

[IngridF]

To all complainers.. Better walk the CF. That overcrowded bed race camino.
Then there will be more room for them who like the caminho Portugese and enjoy the kindness of the Portugese people, the beautiful landscapes and medieval towns, the excellent food and wines.
Wish you well. Period.

With all due respect Albertinho, I too love Portugal, its beauty an the kindness of the Portuguese. I am also very good friends with Jose Luis and Natercia. The fact remains that there are portions poorly marked and I got lost walking out of Vila de Condo.

I walked in July from Porto and until just before Tui.. I walked by myself. I had to cut it short because of other commitments in Zamora. So I never got to finish..but I did get a taste of it.

I too did not get that "Camino feeling" but that is a personal matter.

I n other words I loved the country an it's people..but would have to walk again (and not in July or August) to truly make a judgement as to the CP.

Light an Love Ingrid

 

[Camembert]

Ingrid. I reacted on people who compare the Caminho Portugues with f.ex.the camino Francès. This is a useless discussion. Each camino has its own specialities and we all know there is a lot of roadwalking .so what ? On de Portuguese is no bed race . Luckely not ! And so I can go on. The Portugese camino is the Portugese camino.
There are thousands of threads and posts so everybody can read on before hand what they could expect even with pictures and videos .
I visit Portugal every year since some time, I walked the Portuguese twice and should walk it again and again .

Bom caminho e abraço

 

[CelWilliams]

I just got back from walking the Camino Portugese and thought I would give a review for those thinking about doing this pilgrimage. My wife and I walked the Camino Frances from SJPDP in 2013 and it was a wonderful experience. We wanted to relive that along the Camino Portuguese this year. We walked from Tomar, about 300 miles in 18 days of walking. We took a rest day in Porto. The Camino Portuguese is far different from the Camino Frances. Most of the walk is on asphalt or cobblestone streets of cities and between cities. I would guess no more than 10% is along dirt paths or farm roads that are common on the Camino Frances. The traffic on some of the streets is quite heavy, and when combined with narrow or no sidewalks, it can get downright dangerous at times. The cities you visit are not medieval villages like on the Camino Frances, but modern cities. There are very few pilgrims south of Porto. In fact, we did not meet any pilgrims until we got to Porto. That is 8 days without meeting another pilgrim. We became friends with two pilgrims on the day leaving Porto and walked with them to Santiago. After Tui, the 100k point, the number of pilgrims is quite large. There is little opportunity to attend Mass in Portugal. In fact, we only had one such opportunity in our 13 days in Portugal, and that was in Porto during our rest day. We passed many churches, but they were all closed. We were in Algberaria on a Sunday, and got there as their only Mass was finishing. Once in Spain, each city had a 8pm pilgrim Mass like on the Camino Frances. So, in summary, the sometimes unpleasant walking conditions, lack of fellow pilgrims, and absence of Masses made this seem like more of a long walk than a pilgrimage. On the positive side, the Portuguese are the most generous, friendly, and honest people I have ever met. Some of the cities are tremendous and great places to visit. Tomar, Coimbra, and Porto especially stand out. The food is excellent. The pastries and piglet are memorable, but almost everything we ate was delicious. It is very affordable. A pilgrim meal is 6 euro, and as long as you are not in a tourist area, you can have an excellent dinner with drinks in a nice restaurant for 14 euro. Since there are so few pilgrims, most of the accommodations south of Porto are hostals where you typically get a private room with shared or private bath for 15 euro per person. North of Porto, most cities have albergues which are similar in quality and price to the Camino Frances.

Thanks for your excellent review. I leave from Lisbon in a few weeks. I have mixed feelings. I walked the Frances in 2013 and met my Camino family as well as many wonderful pilgrims from SJPP until Santiago. I am apprehensive about walking alone from Lisbon now that I know so few pilgrims are on the Lisbon to Porto section. (In fact I wish I was walking the European Peace Walk this year.) But plans have been made, non-refundable money has been spent so I am going to make the best of it. I do feel better just from reading your review. I am also taking an extra day here and there to rest and sightsee, allowing 35 days to get to Santiago which was what it took me on the Frances route. Again, thanks for taking the time to pass along your thoughts. It is appreciated.

 

[Camembert]

Thanks for your excellent review. I leave from Lisbon in a few weeks. I have mixed feelings. I walked the Frances in 2013 and met my Camino family as well as many wonderful pilgrims from SJPP until Santiago. I am apprehensive about walking alone from Lisbon now that I know so few pilgrims are on the Lisbon to Porto section. (In fact I wish I was walking the European Peace Walk this year.) But plans have been made, non-refundable money has been spent so I am going to make the best of it. I do feel better just from reading your review. I am also taking an extra day here and there to rest and sightsee, allowing 35 days to get to Santiago which was what it took me on the Frances route. Again, thanks for taking the time to pass along your thoughts. It is appreciated.

The main reason: only a minority of pilgrims walk from Lisbon . it takes a month to reach Santiago from Lisbon.Most people only know about the caminho Português that you start in Porto or in Tui. They have two or three weeks time or less so it is easier to startt there.
But starting in Lisbon is the beginning of a great walk and of course you leave the biggest town and capital of the country with its busy infrastructure ,industrial estates etc. But the same happens leaving Porto but then nobody complains because there is a great detour along the coast to avoid this.
In fact you have a nice walk out of Lisbon to Alverca do Ribatejo. Even here after the walk to Vila Franca de Xira , it is a great walk and arriving there you only follow for some kilometers a national road. You can skip that piece if you want by train for example. In Azambuja starts the normal walk again with highlites as places like Santarèm , Tomar, Coimbra and a beautiful landscape, very nice local people and great food and wines . Nothing wrong with that .enjoy your walk. You won't regret it.
Stay at the Santarèm hostal, Hilario's albergue in Serdanela, the nuns at Casa Diacesana just outside Albergaría -a-Velha , Albergue Monasteiro de Vairão , Casa Fernanda and refuxio de la Jerézana in Cessantes. Great places to stay on the Caminho Português.

Bom caminho

 

[peregrina2000]

I understand both sides of this discussion. Why is it that some have the "camino feeling" from Lisbon and others don't? That's a tough nut to crack. I don't think it has to do with the low numbers of pilgrims. I have walked a number of solitary caminos (on some I was totally alone, on others, I was with one or two), and on some (Levante, Salvador, Invierno) I felt like I was immersed in the "camino feeling" from start to finish. On others (Catalan, Vadiniense), I just didn't. So it wasn't the fact that there either are or aren't other pilgrims, at least not for me. It can't just be about whether there is road walking or not, because I think all of us are aware that all caminos have their fair share of road walking, I really don't think the Portugues stands out in that regard. It's just something intangible that hits some people and misses others. Albergues, communal dinners, great hospitaleros, these all contribute as well, but the core of the "camino feeling" has to come from within, no?

I walked from Lisbon to Porto when there were no albergues and a lot more asphalt than there is now. I was "grabbed into the camino" for whatever reason on that stretch. In part it had to do with the many acts of kindness, the interest of others, the opportunity to enjoy some beautiful stretches of rural Portugal, but there must be something more.

So my advice to anyone starting out from Lisbon is to start without expectations of what this caminho will or will not offer you. You may be disappointed but you also may be very surprised! Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[Kanga]

I find that taking into my camino a sense of gratitude is a great start. If I don't feel that, I tend not to have the "camino" experience. It becomes just a walk, an experience, sometimes a great experience, but not a camino. So for me it is more to do with my own state of mind that the place.

 

[annakappa]

I

Absolutely loved it. Okay, only had the time to walk from Tui but it was great. Certainly not 90% road walking although there was some but mostly not main roads. Take the detour too, to avoid the industrial estate after Tui (momentary memory lapse of name!). We managed Mass every evening too. Emailing cathedral in Santiago before trip gave us all the mass times en route. Spring is wonderful, loads of flowers, really colourful.
Go for it! Buen camino

but, judydaisy, our OP started the Camino in Porto. It's mentioned quite clearly, that conditions changed once in Spain!
My experience was, that until Barcelos, there was a lot of road walking. Too much for my choice, especially as there was little space to be able to walk safely. And it was an uncomfortable surface, due to the set stones ( cobblestones)!
The Portugese people are fantastic and visiting Casa Fernanda is a must.