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Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide Feb-21-2018

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ebrandt submitted a new resource:

Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide - Guide comginding info from various sources for the Primitivo, Finisterre & Muxia

I put together this guide from various resources (the Gronze & Eroski websites, resources on this forum, the Cicerone Guide to the Northern Caminos, the CSJ Guides to the Primitivo and the Finisterre Routes and Brierly's Guides. It is tailored to our walking needs (no phone ## because we don't carry a phone, mostly albergues because we like the community, daily stages of 20-25 km ...). Also -- we plan to walk in June 2015 so I haven't used this yet!!!

Liz Brandt

Read more about this resource...
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
Hey thanks for the guide!! I´m going to use this starting August 24th!
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
ebrandt updated Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide with a new update entry:

Combined Guide to Camino Primitivo 7 August 2014

Hi All, I have added updates based on new forum posts. Plust I got some great new info from Jaunma, one of the hospitaleros at Albergue Ponte de Ferreira (between Lugo and Melida. I wanted to get this info out for folks walking late summer & fall. Buen Camino. And if you use this guide -- please post coments and updates so I can continue to update it! Thanks, Liz

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
Thanks Liz, this is an excellent guide!
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Hi Dan -- Sorry to be slow getting back to you. In the third version I have added more accurate info about the bars and albergues in my stabes 10 and 11. Plus I think there is more info on the Finisterre/Muxia part. But mainly I include info from Juanma, a hospitalero at the albergue La Ferreira. Liz
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Hi Liz,
Thanks again for making such a wonderful document, I used it everyday on the Primitivo :)
Here are some notes I made, mainly about the albergues I stayed at, but hopefully it will help with your terrific resource:

Getting to Oviedo
The closest airport to Oviedo is Asturias Airport and Easyjet currently fly direct from London Stansted twice weekly. The flight time is 1.5hr and Asturias airport is a ~40 min bus ride (Alsa is the company, €8) from Oviedo. The bus terminal at the airport is just outside the arrivals terminal slightly to the right and departs the airport on the hour. It dropped me off at the bus terminal in Oviedo which is about a 10 min walk from the center.
Alternatively you could fly to Bilbao, then bus to Oviedo. Or fly into Santiago, train to A Coruna then bus to Oviedo.

Oviedo
Tourist Info Centre - corner of the Campo San Francisco park & there is also one near the Plaza del Fontan.
I booked a cheap and central hostal for €25 on booking.com and made my way there (Hostal Alvarez).
Naranco by bus from Uria Street – A2 goes there and A1 comes back, €1.05 each way and about a 10 min journey.
Cathedral of San Salvador (€3 entry), pilgrim passport (€2.50)

San Juan de Villapanada Albergue
Has a kitchen, fridge, 1 shower for women and 1 for men, lovely views, place around the back to hang clothes. No food or restaurants nearby, need to buy food at Grado and bring to the albergue.

Bodenaya Albergue
One of the best albergue experiences I've ever had because of the lovely hospitalero Alex. He does your washing, cooks a delicious dinner and makes you feel at home.

Santa Maria de Obona Monastery
Your notes mention there is a bar & shop but I never saw this (it's possibly further on than the monastery). The detour is off a forest track and was quite muddy but worth it to visit the monastery. There's a picnic table opposite the monastery which provides a nice rest in the shade and a spot to eat lunch.

Campiello - Albergue Casa Herminia
The price was €23 for a bed in the albergue including dinner and breakfast (I think it was €13 without the meals). The meals were enormous and very delicious. (There's no kitchen to cook your own dinner, but there was another bar opposite also serving food).

Berducedo - Albergue Privado Camino Antiguo
Has 2 rooms, one with 5 single beds, and the other a dorm room with about 10 bunks. The hospitalero took our hand-washed clothes and out them in a spin-dry machine so they dried nicely overnight. There was some confusion over the price but I was charged €12, not 15 as I was expecting.

Grandas de Salime - Albergue de Peregrinos El Salvador
Your notes mention that some people say this albergue is awful… I think it may have undergone some renovations as it was very modern. Upstairs is divided into 2 dorm rooms with I think about 12 bunks on each side. There are plugs to charge electronics in the middle of the each room.

Fonsagrada - Albergue Cantabrico
A very modern albergue, each bunk bed has its own lamp and electricity outlet. There was a large kitchen, coin-operated washing machines and dryers, a boot-dryer (like in ski resorts), wifi, and a pension above the albergue.

Castroverde - Albergue Juvenil de Peregrinos
Another very modern albergue with heaps of indoor and outdoor seating. No washing machine or dryer, they do have wash basins and a drying "room" but very hard to dry clothes on a wet/damp evening. Also has a lovely big kitchen, but no kitchen utensils, so you would literally need to bring your own pots and pans in order to cook anything.

Lugo - Alternative accommodation
· Hotel Espana, €25 for a single room (pilgrim rate), terrific location just outside the roman gate to the cathedral
· Hotel Monumento Pazo de Orban, €88 for a single room (pilgrim rate), terrific location near the cathedral inside the roman walls
· Balneario Hotel de Lugo, €80 (Sat night price on a festival evening, so I'm sure you can get a cheaper rate), this is the hotel built on top of the roman baths, it's about a 15-20 minute walk uphill to get into Lugo city.

San Roman de Retorta - Albergue O Candido
The owner, Nito, asks what you would like to eat when you arrive and everyone decides the time that they would like to eat. I wasn't very well so I just had the lentil soup, but everyone was having 3 course meals of salads, chicken, fish, pasta, vegetables with potatoes (for the vegetarians), and these meals were cooked by his family and brought to the albergue. There was a bar about 1km before the albergue but I didn't go inside so I'm not sure if they did meals, but there was no bar/restaurant where these 2 albergues are.

Salceda - Pousada de Salceda
I still wasn't very well so I stayed in the private rooms here for €30, but there is an albergue attached. The private room was stunning, a very modern room in an old converted stone building. There was a restaurant and bar on the property and the dinners looked amazing.

Santiago de Compostela - San Martin Pinario Hospederia
This hospederia is opposite the cathedral so you really couldn't get a better location (unless you were spending 5 times the amount to stay in the Parador). It's a former pilgrim hospital and now the 4th floor is pilgrim rooms whereas the other floors are hotel rooms. A single pilgrim room with private bathroom is €23 and this includes the enormous buffet breakfast. This is my favourite place to stay in Santiago but it does get busy so you may need to call ahead and make a reservation. (I'm a firm believer of sharing information but I hope I'll still be able to get in) ;)

kat
 
Kat -- Thank you so much for this detailed feedback. I will incorporate it into the guide and I know we will be glad of the info when we walk this coming June! Liz
 
ebrandt updated Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide with a new update entry:

Third Revision -- As of November 1, 2014

Hi Forum-ites,

I have continued to make revisions in the Guide and want to especially think the Primitivo walkers this fall who have given me detailed feedback especially Veronika_CZ and Kat.

As I have followed the posts in the Camino Primitivo Forum it has become clear that there can be some lodging bottlenecks on the Primitivo so I have added Pensions, Hotels and Casa Rurals to my listing of Albergues and then, for all lodging I have included phone numbers and websites/emails where...

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
ebrandt updated Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide with a new update entry:

Another Revision -- the 4th!

Hi All, After I posted my most recent update on 1 November, I got a bunch of very good additional comments and corrections. So, I'm posting another update that incorporates that feedback. Thanks again to Laurie and also to Pelerin, Sulu, Isabelle and others. Right now I'm working on the historical info and info about local foods and other sights and information of interest along the walk. I hope you all find this helpful! And as before, keep the feedback coming. Thanks so much, Liz

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
Hi Liz,
Thanks again for making such a wonderful document, I used it everyday on the Primitivo :)
Here are some notes I made, mainly about the albergues I stayed at, but hopefully it will help with your terrific resource:

Getting to Oviedo
The closest airport to Oviedo is Asturias Airport and Easyjet currently fly direct from London Stansted twice weekly. The flight time is 1.5hr and Asturias airport is a ~40 min bus ride (Alsa is the company, €8) from Oviedo. The bus terminal at the airport is just outside the arrivals terminal slightly to the right and departs the airport on the hour. It dropped me off at the bus terminal in Oviedo which is about a 10 min walk from the center.
Alternatively you could fly to Bilbao, then bus to Oviedo. Or fly into Santiago, train to A Coruna then bus to Oviedo.

Oviedo
Tourist Info Centre - corner of the Campo San Francisco park & there is also one near the Plaza del Fontan.
I booked a cheap and central hostal for €25 on booking.com and made my way there (Hostal Alvarez).
Naranco by bus from Uria Street – A2 goes there and A1 comes back, €1.05 each way and about a 10 min journey.
Cathedral of San Salvador (€3 entry), pilgrim passport (€2.50)

San Juan de Villapanada Albergue
Has a kitchen, fridge, 1 shower for women and 1 for men, lovely views, place around the back to hang clothes. No food or restaurants nearby, need to buy food at Grado and bring to the albergue.

Bodenaya Albergue
One of the best albergue experiences I've ever had because of the lovely hospitalero Alex. He does your washing, cooks a delicious dinner and makes you feel at home.

Santa Maria de Obona Monastery
Your notes mention there is a bar & shop but I never saw this (it's possibly further on than the monastery). The detour is off a forest track and was quite muddy but worth it to visit the monastery. There's a picnic table opposite the monastery which provides a nice rest in the shade and a spot to eat lunch.

Campiello - Albergue Casa Herminia
The price was €23 for a bed in the albergue including dinner and breakfast (I think it was €13 without the meals). The meals were enormous and very delicious. (There's no kitchen to cook your own dinner, but there was another bar opposite also serving food).

Berducedo - Albergue Privado Camino Antiguo
Has 2 rooms, one with 5 single beds, and the other a dorm room with about 10 bunks. The hospitalero took our hand-washed clothes and out them in a spin-dry machine so they dried nicely overnight. There was some confusion over the price but I was charged €12, not 15 as I was expecting.

Grandas de Salime - Albergue de Peregrinos El Salvador
Your notes mention that some people say this albergue is awful… I think it may have undergone some renovations as it was very modern. Upstairs is divided into 2 dorm rooms with I think about 12 bunks on each side. There are plugs to charge electronics in the middle of the each room.

Fonsagrada - Albergue Cantabrico
A very modern albergue, each bunk bed has its own lamp and electricity outlet. There was a large kitchen, coin-operated washing machines and dryers, a boot-dryer (like in ski resorts), wifi, and a pension above the albergue.

Castroverde - Albergue Juvenil de Peregrinos
Another very modern albergue with heaps of indoor and outdoor seating. No washing machine or dryer, they do have wash basins and a drying "room" but very hard to dry clothes on a wet/damp evening. Also has a lovely big kitchen, but no kitchen utensils, so you would literally need to bring your own pots and pans in order to cook anything.

Lugo - Alternative accommodation
· Hotel Espana, €25 for a single room (pilgrim rate), terrific location just outside the roman gate to the cathedral
· Hotel Monumento Pazo de Orban, €88 for a single room (pilgrim rate), terrific location near the cathedral inside the roman walls
· Balneario Hotel de Lugo, €80 (Sat night price on a festival evening, so I'm sure you can get a cheaper rate), this is the hotel built on top of the roman baths, it's about a 15-20 minute walk uphill to get into Lugo city.

San Roman de Retorta - Albergue O Candido
The owner, Nito, asks what you would like to eat when you arrive and everyone decides the time that they would like to eat. I wasn't very well so I just had the lentil soup, but everyone was having 3 course meals of salads, chicken, fish, pasta, vegetables with potatoes (for the vegetarians), and these meals were cooked by his family and brought to the albergue. There was a bar about 1km before the albergue but I didn't go inside so I'm not sure if they did meals, but there was no bar/restaurant where these 2 albergues are.

Salceda - Pousada de Salceda
I still wasn't very well so I stayed in the private rooms here for €30, but there is an albergue attached. The private room was stunning, a very modern room in an old converted stone building. There was a restaurant and bar on the property and the dinners looked amazing.

Santiago de Compostela - San Martin Pinario Hospederia
This hospederia is opposite the cathedral so you really couldn't get a better location (unless you were spending 5 times the amount to stay in the Parador). It's a former pilgrim hospital and now the 4th floor is pilgrim rooms whereas the other floors are hotel rooms. A single pilgrim room with private bathroom is €23 and this includes the enormous buffet breakfast. This is my favourite place to stay in Santiago but it does get busy so you may need to call ahead and make a reservation. (I'm a firm believer of sharing information but I hope I'll still be able to get in) ;)

kat
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Thank you so much for this, your details have eased my mind about some of the travel complications.
 
ebrandt updated Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide with a new update entry:

Combined Guide to the Camino Primitivo & the Camino Finisterre/Muxia 2-18-15 VERSION 5

OK, this is IT. I don't think I will be revising this guide again before our June walk and I wanted to post before folks start walking the Camino Primitivo again in March. My plan is to revise it once more at the end of July when we return from our walk so it reflects reality (at least our reality!)

This last version has many changes. I've included alternate lodging (not just albergues) with phone and internet contact info, lots of info on history and on local food and drink.

NOTE on...

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Mieke -- I haven't actually walked the Primitivo so I am not certain about booking the bus first, but I think you will be OK. I would post your question in the Camino Primitivo section of the forum -- I know some experienced Primitivo walkers will be able to give you better advice. I am jealous that you will be walking so soon. Buen Camino! LIz
 
Already printed. Leave for Spain on Friday. Start walking just before you. Can follow me on docpamprimitivo.blogspot.com.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
ebrandt submitted a new resource:

Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide - Guide comginding info from various sources for the Primitivo, Finisterre & Muxia



Read more about this resource...
Thank you for the information! I am going to start June 8th, 2015.. A bit nervous with all the woman safety issues I have been reading about. IS this like the Camino frances where I can literally just pack my bag and go….because that is what I am doing.
 
JBF -- You will be one day ahead of us -- we will be in Oviedo on the 8th and start walking on the 9th! I haven't walked the Primitivo yet. I think you can literally pack your bag and walk. The biggest difference I can pick up from the Frances is that there is less "the pilgrim infrastructure" -- that is fewer bars and albergues and they are a bit further apart. So you might want to look at your guide a bit more often and carry an emergency stash of food in case you don't pass a bar in a timely way. I'd all make sure you knew where the next albergues are as you walk so you don'g get into a situation where you have to walk longer than you planned to stay somewhere. There are a couple spots where the distance to the next albergue can be up to 20k. maybe we will see you on the Way. Liz
 
HI All, We are starting our walk on the Camino Primitio on June 9. I will post annotations to the guide in a post around the beginning of July. I will update the Guide once we return to the US at the beginning of August. Liz
 
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
HI All, We are starting our walk on the Camino Primitio on June 9. I will post annotations to the guide in a post around the beginning of July. I will update the Guide once we return to the US at the beginning of August. Liz
How is it going? I ended up doing a vipassana first and am leaving in the next few days?
 
ebrandt updated Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide with a new update entry:

The LAST Update -- 1 August 2015

Hi All,

We have finished our walk, returned to the US and I have updated my guide one more time to reflect reality!!! Hope you find it helpful. as before, I am posting the .pdf version here (not enough space for the word version). You can find the Word version and lots of info on my blog, Footloose & Tuition Free, or feel free to email me at...

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Down bag (90/10 duvet) of 700 fills with 180 g (6.34 ounces) of filling. Mummy-shaped structure, ideal when you are looking for lightness with great heating performance.

€149,-
Great, thanks a lot! I'm goingg to go this route and I hope I probably will start it in the end of March 2016, I have searched a guide like this for long time!
 
Liz, Fantastic piece of work. Absolutely FAB. Thank you so much. This Camino has been on my mind. You've done everyone a great service. Buen Camino :) Caesar
 
New Original Camino Gear Designed Especially with The Modern Peregrino In Mind!
I've just downloaded your guide Liz and must thank you for the hard work you've put in. I'm just starting planning my Camino for this May and the detailed information is a great help. Thanks again
Mike
Make sure you check out the information on Gronze or Eroski Consumer because I last updated it in August 2015. I think there are a few new albergues and such. Liz
 
Liz, if I sent you info on my albergues, would you update it and upload a new version? Or would you requiere update from more albergues, restaurants, etc... in order to publish an update? :)
 
Yes. I know you sent this to me before but I was in the middle of some health things and then I misplaced th info and then..... anyway if you send me the info Mai will definitely updat ASAP. HOpr you are well. Liz
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Hi Liz! No, I didn't send you any updates that I can remember, don't worry... I was asking if I could send them NOW :) I will send you a pm right now with some info. Take care!
 
No worries -- somehow I knew of your new albergue but I never got it added. You will see I just posted a new post to see if there is other info I should update. I'll try to post the updated guide in a week or so. L
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
ebrandt updated Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide with a new update entry:

Most Recent Update 2-6-2018 -- probably the last :)

HI All -- I have updated this guide from online info and info in the Camino Primitivo Forum. I do not plan to update it again. I believe the Confraternity of St. James will soon be coming out with a new and up to date Camino Primitivo Guide. In the meantime, buen camino! As before, I cannot get the new version to upload. Here is link to it on the web: Camino Primitivo Guide 2-6-18. As always -- if you have trouble...

Read the rest of this update entry...
 
ebrandt submitted a new resource:

Camino Primitivo to Santiago and then to Muxia & Finisterre Guide - Guide comginding info from various sources for the Primitivo, Finisterre & Muxia



Read more about this resource...
Thank you for creating a resource. I am planning to come in a few days and haven't settled upon a route. Since so many comments say the heat is fierce in June I'm trying to find a camino with a lot of leaves. Some, I see on other threads, have been dismissive of people who ask this question about shade, yet i ask it anyway. The traditional route appeals to me but I have to guard against over exposure to bright sunlight. Is the primitivo significantly more shaded - if you have walked the CF and know? Thanks for responding.
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-

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