The Via Francigena del Sud, Rome to Bari

[BobM]

Monday, May 9: St. Peter's Square to the Coliseum, 4.3km

The serious walking starts tomorrow. Today I went back to St Peter's Square to get the very first stamp in my pristine new credencial.

Then I walked to the ancient start of the Via Appia at the Arch of Constantine next to the Coliseum. I will be following it for many days before taking the Via Traiana to Bari.

I am staying at an Airbnb flat near the Coliseum. My host has a friend, Umberto the chef, who has just started the Camino to Santiago. He has crossed the Pyrenees in rain and has passed through Pamplona. My host has offered to help me with his Italian language skills if I have problems with accommodation.

One of the attached photos is of St Peter's square, the usual starting point for pilgrims 'taking the palm' and setting out for Jerusalem.

The other photo is of the Arch of Constantine, with a touristic bit of the cobbled Via Appia.

 

[BobM]

Tuesday May 10. Rome to Castel Gandolfo, 24.8km.

This is my first chance to update my progress. This stage was historically interesting, but the long straight Via Appia became quite boring. The ancient paving gave way to progressively smaller paths. Then there was a final relentless ascent to the town.

I stayed at Villa Aulina and was welcomed kindly (bnb €35, hb with wine €48).

The day was warm and I was pretty much exhausted on arrival and was really wondering if I could continue the walk.

I was in bed by 8.30.

The pics show Quo Vadis and part of the Via Appia.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Wed May 11. Castel Gandolfo to Velletri, 19.8km.

I woke early to pack and get organised. Last night I was so beat that I just dumped stuff all over the room.

Light rain was falling which was not especially motivating for day two. So it was on with all my wet weather gear. This is so much fun.

After an unpleasant walk through busy rainy streets the path diverted into a tranquil forest walk inside the crater of Lago Albano with beautiful views of the lake through the trees.

Then there was an uphill walk out of the crater. The rain had stopped. What a terrible disappointment.

I came across a stretch of ancient basolto pavement.

Much of the walk was in forest with various path waymarks including for the ViaFrancigena, but they all pointed to Rome.

Then I came to the beautiful ancient village of Nemi overlooking a crater lake of the same name. It was so pretty that I stopped for coffee and a break.

Then the walk went onto forest tracks and the almost inevitable confusion of paths that conflicted with my guide and it's GPS data. My smart phone and its detailed topo map of Italy was pretty indispensable here.

The final stretch into Velletri was quite pleasant on a wide treelined footpath.

I received a very indifferent reception at the Bnb Il Privilegio. Breakfast was not served on the premises but I got a voucher for one measly cornetto and a small cappuccino in the bar across the street next morning. I was deeply affected by this expression of boundless generosity.

My routine was better organised today and not the chaos of yesterday.

I felt quite happy about the day.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Thurs May 12. Velletri to Cori, 22.3km.

Today became such a difficult nightmare that I seriously thought of pulling the plug on my walk.

Very heavy rain greeted me as I trudged across the street for my breakfast at 6.30am.

I saw more Via Francigena waymarks today, all pointing to Rome. There was more path confusion in a small section of forest. By now it was maybe 9am and the rain had stopped.

By now I was close to an airfield and the guidebook had a complicated path through fields to avoid the runway and head directly for the small village of Guilianello.

But after bashing through tall grass and new brambles and waking on the edge of crops I came to an impenetrable thicket of brambles. I spent some minutes trying to bash a way through with my walking pole but it was just too difficult.

So I had to work out a much longer route that added about an hour to the day.

I got to Guilianello at 1.30pm and had a good break. I debated trying to get a bus to Cori instead of walking another 7 km.

I abandoned the official path and walked uphill along the highway to Cori. I arrived about 4.20pm and spent till 5pm finding the bnb Minerva Domus, with a lot of local help including from a man who drove me up the final hill.

More later.

Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

"path confusion"...
"an impenetrable thicket of brambles"...

What an excellent challenge!
Enjoy tomorrow, @BobM

 

[BobM]

Thurs May 12 continued.

The Minerva Domus was wonderful (€20 bnb special price for pilgrims). Friendly welcome with drinks. Two glossy black cats stalking the premises. Excellent breakfast.

I had walked 9 hours today and with the rain, navigation issues and bramble bashing I was really beat.

I decided to have a rest day tomorrow to dry my washing and assess the future of my walk. I was on the verge of pulling the plug and taking the bus to Cisterna Latina and the train to Rome and having a nice time as a normal tourist. I am walking too slowly on the relentless climbs and all the other challenges seemto be taking a bigger toll on me this time.

Booking places to stay is relatively easy by sending texts or emails, but you have to do it two days in advance because people are very slow to respond.

The VF GPS data is very reliable so far and my Locus Pro topo map of Italy is excellent. The weather has been dull so the screen is readable. The big problem is that the touch screen does not work properly when it is wet.

The pic today shows a typical ancient street in Cori. Minerva Domus is on the left just before the arch. It has no sign.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Friday May 13. At rest in Cori.

Cold, dull grey sky with unexpected sprinkles of rain. I woke feeling a great relief that I did not have to saddle up today.

Cori, like Nemi, is another very picturesque town with ancient temples and ruins to explore. Google it.

I tried to book ahead for the next difficult 30+km stage. The guidebook says it is 8 hours challenging walking, but at my present pace it would take me 9 or more hours.

If I decide to continue l will walk 12km tomorrow to Norma and 21km next day to Sezze. The problem is that no one is replying to my texts and emails re bookings and I don't want to just turn up in case the places are closed.

I am still struggling with this walk. It is proving to be quite difficult. Maybe it is just first week acclimatising. No injuries, just a relentless physical and mental drain.

Photos are proving difficult to upload.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Saturday May 14. Cori to Norma. 11.1km.

I went to the bus stop pretty much decided to go back to Rome. In fact I had cancelled. my room at Norma.

But while waiting for the bus I had second thoughts. The weather was dull and damp but itdid not look like rain.

So I set out for Norma. The whole route is on the road so there were no navigation issues

There was a relentless 2-hour climb of over 300 metres and the route followed the side of a hill with great views of the farms far below.

I could see a black rain squall coming at me and just had time to don my poncho before I was hit by drenching rain that continued for the next two hours to Norma. The road was a river of water. Soon my boots were full of water. There was a cold wind blowing and my fingers became numb.

I was happy to stop at the first bar in Norma to take off my drenched poncho and have two coffees and cornettos. No one in the bar apart from the woman in charge showed the slightest interest in me. Normally the older people in Italian villages surreptitiously scrutinize me minutely as I pass by.

I arrived at the Hotel Villa del Cardinale at 1pm. Bnb €51. It is set in a beautiful location among trees. Great facilities and welcome. The duty manager speaks English. A very large tour group also checked in. The hotel runs summer music camps and my room in a big dorm has a piano in it.

Today was one of the wetter days I have ever walked. My washing has not dried but my poncho kept me dry and the pack was completely dry.

I still have no confirmed room in Sezze and I dare not just turn up in bad weather in case the places are closed. It is quite a hike to find alternatives.

So I will stay here tomorrow to dry washing and confirm a room in Sezze - if anyone bothers to reply to texts and emails.

I am losing a lot of time and may not have time to continue after Bari.

Bobm

 

[mspath]

Sorry to learn that things are difficult, Bob, but at least you are comfy now! The countryside is certainly glorious near Norma; I remember with pleasure visiting the nearby Giardino di Nimfa more than 35 years ago traveling by Vespa up and down those abundant hills.

Before tomorrow might you ask your host/manager to telephone the spots you have chosen in Sezze in order to comfirm your next reservation? Hopefully after you rest and the weather changes it will be easier for you to continue.
Take care and Buon viaggio!
MM

 

[BobM]

Sunday May 15. At Norma.

I am having a great day off. The rain seems to be clearing and the meteo for Monday looks good. It is quite cold, top 15 deg during the day.

My booking at Sezze has been confirmed after I called and the woman had a friend call me back who spoke perfect English and will meet me when I arrive.

I have also found that I will be able to stay in the Abbey grounds at Fossanova (Burgo Antico).

So the next two nights look good.

One pic shows the view back to Cori yesterday before the rain hit. Another shows the approaching rain and the third is my refuge at Villa del Cardinale.

My future updates might be irregular depending on the availability of WiFi.

Using my phone is quite practical for updates so I don't really need a heavy tablet. The only thing is that they are terse and may not capture the inner spirit of each day.
Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

..."the inner spirit of each day"...

Go Well, @BobM

 

[BobM]

Monday May 16. Norma to Sezze. 18.2km

The day was clear and bright which lifted my spirits. The walk via Valviscolo Abbey and Sermoneta was quite beautiful with great views as far as the coast nearer Sezze.

There was one lung-busting climb of over 300 metres to begin with.

Much of the walk was off-road on good paths with VF signs. Narrow and stony with one very muddy section.

I arrived at the Casa Salvi bnb on the outskirts of Sezze after about 6 hours walking. Great welcome. An English speaking friend of the owner invited me to dinner and to use her washing machine.

That was a morale boosting experience. Rain and thunder struck with a vengeance and the meteo for tomorrow is very bad.

A good walk and meeting good people but bad prospects for tomorrow.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Tuesday May 17 Sezze to Fossanova Abbey. 22km

I woke to a cold rainy day with squally clouds and sudden intervals of drenching rain. I really have had enough of this.

Just as I was about to set out after a very good breakfast Ruth turned up to offer me a lift to Fossanova Abbey, my destination for the day.

We arrived at 11am and were able to have a good look at the Abbey. It is really wonderful and tranquil.

I have never seen weather so variable with sudden unexpected squalls then bright sun.

There is one place to stay on the Abbey grounds at Locanda Borgo antico. Excellent with great help from the woman on reception.

These updates are getting terser because the net keeps dropping out. Not sure if there is much value in persevering so I will close while the link lasts.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

A few photos

 

[lovingkindness]

Tuesday May 17...I woke to a cold rainy day with squally clouds and sudden intervals of drenching rain. I really have had enough of this...

Hija, @BobM. One day on the Island of Crete as I was slogging it out in the rain dressed in a rubbish bag and 2 dollar poncho, a car pulled up. The driver insisted that I stop walking and spend the afternoon sitting in front of the fire with his 85 year old mother. We spoke in smiles and edible exchanges. She watched on as I glued childrens drawings into my journal. That morning I'd been invited to speak at a local primary school. The teachers made me breakfast and the pupils gave me art....rainy weather is the worst. Give me heat or snow any day...

Cheers

 

[BobM]

Wed May 18 Fossanova to Terracina 21.4km.

Today was a beautiful flat walk in good weather with no navigation problems.

I had an excellent breakfast at the Locanda Borgo antico with extremely helpful young ladies anxious to see that I was well fed. (€60 bnb).

This stage has good waymarks, often just yellow stripes on rocks and poles,but also little pilgrim logos on poles, as well as the big official VF 'street signs '

There was even a bar for coffee right on my path.

The bnb Il Gatto e la Volpe in Terracina was not easy to spot,there was only a small sign above the door bell to the building. I had to ask at the next door pizza shop, but the staff did not know it -a very common thing I have found on this walk.

A blue-haired woman customer overheard me and found it on the Internet. The rule is always ask the blue-haired woman.

The pics are self-explanatory, except maybe the one of ancient cobbles of the Via Appia antica partly covered over.

Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

...The rule is always ask the blue-haired woman....

...but what if there isn't one, BobM, what then???

 

[BobM]

The bnb le Gatto e la Volpe is excellent. Nice welcome. Drink. Washing done for me. Help with the next accommodation.

I am going into hilly country again and have to shorten my stages. The meteo looks good for the next week.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Thursday May 19 Terracina to Fondi 14.8km

The official route climbs back into the mountains to the Monastery of St Magno but I decided to take the shorter route on the SS 7 all the way to Fondi.

Stefan at the bnb brought me breakfast in my room at 7.30 before I set out. Great people, not emoting in your face at a million watts, just quietly helpful and solicitous.

The weather was good and the walking easy, but the SS7 is busy and dangerous for walkers.

Stopped at a restaurant for coffee. Just as the young woman was about to serve me the boss came out and said they were not a bar and were busy setting up for lunch. I was shocked by his attitude and refusal and gave him the time of day and walked off. Just down the road was a bar where I did get served. I told the woman there my story of the unpleasant individual I had just met and what I thought of him and his restaurant. The woman smiled and said that he was her brother.

There is another tough climb tomorrow to my next stop at Itri. Some is on the SS 7, so I hope the weather is good. It would be crazy to brave the heavy traffic in rain.

One pic shows part of the SS7. The other is the sea near Terracina.

Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

Hello, BobM. I think that perhaps I am being too 'present' on your Forum journey. Sorry. For the next little while I will be silent. I've deleted my last comment re having your washing done ! I'll stick to clicking the 'Like' button...

Cheers
LK

 

[BobM]

Friday May 20 Fondi to Itri 13km

Today was an excellent walk in good weather, mostly on the fiendishly busy SS7. The gradient on the big ascent of the day was quite OK so I arrived very early in Itri. It would have been feasible to continue to Formia but I had booked a bnb here.

Itri is another beautiful town with lots of history and a famous castle. The bnb Mezzabrina Vista Castello is on a hill with great views over the town.

There was a great section of old Roman road today that was well placarded with explanatory signs. Very well done.

It is a stiff uphill walk from town to the bnb, so the lady in charge cooked dinner for me: salad steak strawberries bread and wine made by her Dad.

The pics for today should be self explanatory.

Bobm

 

[mspath]

Lucky you! Good weather, great views plus strawberries for dessert; what a perfect day you have had!...Thanks for sharing your happiness!

 

[BobM]

Saturday May 21 Fondi to Scauri 22km

Wonderful breakfast at the bnb. I was the first client of the season and my hostess took my photo with the castello in the background. Views fantastic.

Good weather and pleasant downhill walking to Formia and the sea.

Then it was a horrible hot walk for a few hours through Formia and the interminable suburbs of the coast to my beach hotel Villa Eleonora in Scauri. Most of the walk was on my old friend the SS7, straight as a ruler.

A man in his car stopped me about 4km from my hotel. A friend has written a book on the Via Appia and he was interested in my walk. Took my photo to send to his friend. Hope it does not end up being splashed all over the Internet on that abomination Facebook, which I abhor. He said my hotel was very close, little realising that 4km was an hour of walking.

Hope this stuff is interesting. These sketchy updates take about an hour to peck out on my phone and I am not sure how much longer I can stay motivated to do it at the end of each day.

My phone map and Locus Pro are proving to be practical and excellent. My views have changed re using a phone to navigate with.

The next week to Benevento presents problems of awkward stages and accommodation. Then there are 2-3 hard days over the Appenines to Troia.

If I make it to Troia it will be downhill and flat all the way to Bari, about 8 or 9 days.

Anyway , I have just spent the usual 30 frustrating minutes booking a room for tomorrow.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Sorry guys the other pics are too big to upload now. Might tweak them and try later.
Bobm

 

[alipilgrim]

Hi Bob, I'm very much enjoy your posts and appreciate the detail you're providing. Not only does it make your Camino come alive for me, it inspires me to research this walk as something to consider for the future. I love reading first-hand accounts of new routes, and this is the first I've read of this one. It sounds like there's good accommodation, scenic villages, and do-able distances. And since the weather's improved you do seem o be enjoying it more!

Please keep posting!!

P.S. 684 views as of this entry so you have plenty of anonymous followers!

 

[BobM]

I feel a bit more positive this moring. These long walks solo are not easy on body or mind so support like yours is morale boosting.

Pics of the sea near Formia/Scauri and of my old foe the vicious SS7. Note that I only take pics of it when there are no vehicles.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Sunday May 22 Scauri to Sessa Aurunca 22.5km

Flat all the way to the edge of Sessa Aurunca then a modest climb into this interesting town. Am staying at the Hotel San Leo. Good but expensive. Staff indifferent but helpful when pressed. Fairly typical of the almost unfriendly attitude of many of the places I have stayed at.

Interesting ruins at Minturnae.

Route on SS7 then still busy smaller roads.

No shade. Very hot.

Then spent a frustrating 2+hours arranging accom for two days. The chaos inefficiency phones not answered wrong addresses is a major downer for this walk. Even apart from language problems it beats me why the process is so inefficient. This crap really wears you down at the end a tiring day and I am getting a bad attitude about it

Bobm

 

[BobM]

I booked a bnb in Nocelleto and the owner said that it was in the town. Could not find the address in my gps and discovered that it was actually 6km south of the town, another 90 min walk.

Bob

 

[alipilgrim]

Sunday May 22 Scauri to Sessa Aurunca 22.5km

Flat all the way to the edge of Sessa Aurunca then a modest climb into this interesting town. Am staying at the Hotel San Leo. Good but expensive. Staff indifferent but helpful when pressed. Fairly typical of the almost unfriendly attitude of many of the places I have stayed at.

Interesting ruins at Minturnae.

Route on SS7 then still busy smaller roads.

No shade. Very hot.

Then spent a frustrating 2+hours arranging accom for two days. The chaos inefficiency phones not answered wrong addresses is a major downer for this walk. Even apart from language problems it beats me why the process is so inefficient. This crap really wears you down at the end a tiring day and I am getting a bad attitude about it

Bobm

Bob,

Have you, by chance, been making notes of incorrect addresses and phone numbers? If so, would you mind terribly posting at list of such at the end of your walk so future peregrinos could benefit from your experience?

Keep on truckin' !!!

 

[BobM]

I will post more details in a month or so when I get home.

 

[BobM]

Monday May 23 Sessa Aurunca to Borgomontanaro 15.6km

Short stage due to accom. All on the busy SS7. Good weather. Fantastic hosts at Borgomontanaro just north of Francolise.
No pics. Flaky net connection.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

Tuesday May 24 Borgomontanaro to Capua 16km

Another short day on my old favourite.Can you guess? Very heavy traffic because we are close to big cities like Caserta.

I badly need a rest day but I am taking short stages to Benevento which I hope to reach on Saturday. Then I will have 2 rest days to figure out my plans for crossing the Appenines.

Today's official route was off the SS7 through fields and farms with some navigation challenges. I avoided it to save time.

Capua would be a great place to schedule a rest day. Heaps of history. Google Capua Vetere.

Am at the bnb Dei Nonni €50. OK.

My hosts yesterday were absolute kindness and among my very favorites of all my walks. The family (de Renzis) has a family tree going back to 1250. They have been prominent in politics the military and papal affairs. Their beautiful home was destroyed in WW 2 after the landings in Italy.

Pics from the last 2 days. Sorry guys, I don't have the patience to peck out captions. You wikl have to use your imagination.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

A few words on bnbs. I am the first guest of the season at many places so maybe the chaotic booking and reception arrangements are partially due to the fact that they are not yet into the swing of things.

A word on local attitudes of indifference suspicion with a touch of contempt for itinerant walkers. Maybe there are cultural nuances that I am not picking up. I don't want to over-dramatise it, but something is different in this part of Italy compared to north of Rome

Bobm

 

[mspath]

Is that special something the fact that you are walking across omerta country?

Watch your back and keep on going on!

 

[jsalt]

Hi Bobm, thank you so much. I may walk this one day, so appreciate reading your honest postings. Don’t stop! Jill

 

[BobM]

More on accom. Bnb accom seems to be very amateurish and not well run in many of the places where I have stayed. It is nothing like the efficient professional bnbs you find in the UK. I would die for a decent English breakfast instead of a cornetto and coffee.

I am tending to go for hotels now. At least they are easier to deal with.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

These posts give immediate impressions and are not all that good in the sense that a writer wants. It is also quite possible that some of my negative impressions are not fair and will change as time gives a better perspective.

But let me give one more negative impression. The light of curiosity and adventure seems to have gone out of the locsls. Even young people don't have the curiosity about the bigger world and the desire to explore it that is so typical and admirable in the young of other countries
Bobm

 

[BobM]

I might as well get all the negatives off my chest.

The rate of smoking is shockingly high among men and women. These people are poor so a lot of their money must go to cigarettes.

Something is going on with household garbage that I don't understand. Everywhere you see bulging bags of household rubbish tossed everywhere along roads and in streets. There is corruption and criminal involvement in the waste disposal system, not to mention strikes.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Wednesday 25 May Capua to San Nicola la Strada (Caserta) 14km

Today was an easy day with a bit of sightseeing. The whole walk was on city streets and roads. The official route has a pointless deviation off the main road that I did not take. The roads have good safe sidewalks.
Good weather and an excellent hotel at the Plaza Caserta.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Thursday 26 May Caserta to Forchia 14.6km.

Accom availability to Benevento means stages of about 15km or 25+ I have opted for the shorter stages in lieu of a rest day.

Good flat walk in good weather but with a stiff uphill slog into Forchia. Great welcome at the Camere al Borgo. Drove me to dinner. Asked if I wanted an English breakfast in the morning.

Since Santa Maria a Vico it is like I am in a different country. People say buongiorno. Locals in bars talk to me about my walk. The bnbs are helpful and efficient. This is an uplifting change as I had been brooding over the dying villages with their sullen defeated people, mainly old, that I had been walking through.

Santa Maria a Vico has new building going on and novel sculptures in the square. Other small towns also seem to be a little more prosperous.

No navigation issues today.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Friday 27 May Forchia to Montesarchio 14km

Good weather. Nice walks through farms off the main roads. No navigation issues. Pretty villages. A very stiff climb of 200 metres in 2km to my bnb Villa Montemma about 2km out of Montesarchio on the Via Francigena route to Benevento. Wonderful welcome. Great views back over the town and its dominating castello. I am the only guest, as I have been at all the bnbs so far. It is early in the season. I have not seen another walker.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

I'm having to research all my accom using booking.com and bedandbreakfast.it to scope possibilities. It beats me why pilgrim associations like the AIVF have not done this already. They have made only an incomplete token effort for the ViaFrancigena del Sud.

It is very time consuming. Sometimes the booking website maps don't show accurate locations so you have to double check addresses. Just because a bnb claims to be in a certain town does not mean it is actually in the town, it might be some km away. That's nothing if you are driving but it is a big deal if you are at the end of a day's walking.

Most bnbs I have used are not actually lived in by the hosts so you have to make arrangenents by phone to be met and let in. A few are active users of WhatsApp which makes life easier (eg Villa Montemma). The hosts often have day jobs so contact numbers can be their mothers who know zero English.

But given all this they really try to be helpful.

Very very few offer dinner. Some are not near bars or food stores so you need to plan and buy dinner in advance.

 

[BobM]

A few words on accom. Most of the bnbs I have used have WiFi,which makes it easier to find accom on the Internet.

All of them were very helpful with early breakfast. I like to eat at 7.30 so I can do most of my walking in the coolest part of the day.

When I found places to book on the booking sites I then tried to Google for direct contact details.. Booking.com has high fees and is often more expensive than direct contact where I can say I am a pilgrim walking the Via Francigena.

My map of Italy in LocusMaps Pro also shows some hotels and I have chosen two from the map. BTW the more I use LocusMaps Pro the more impressed I am with the detail of the maps. They cost only a few dollars. They are usable offline and are fully zoomable. You could quite easilynavigate the Via Francigena with this app alone on your phone. The gps receiver sometimes drops out and is not as bullet proof as a Garmin GPS unit.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Saturday May 28 Montesarchio to Benevento 16km

My stages are very inefficient because of accommodation and the fact that I don't want to walk 25+km on hilly stages in this weather. It was over 30 degrees yesterday and today. There was another brutal ascent of 100m for 40 minutes from my bnb then it was just small ups and downs on quiet roads to Benevento. Beautiful farming country with the mountains I will have to cross looming in the distance.

Very friendly locals and it was hard to tear myself away from one bar. Everyone there seemed to have a relative in Australia.

No navigation issues.

I am taking two days off here to be a tourist and get set for the next stage across the hills to Troia. I am in the dog days of a long walk when it all seems to drag and it takes a real effort to saddle up each morning. No day is easy and the Via Francigena figbts and tests you every day.

The route through the mountains is sparsely populated and accommodation is inconveniently located. You also have to check that reasonably direct roads exist to avoid long roundabout roads. The other issue is to check that I will be able to get a meal each evening. I can't carry food for 4 days.
So I will research the options tomorrow. It might prove to be a show stopper requiring a bus to Celle di San Vito or even Troia.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

Here is some homework for you.

The Crimson flowers in the photo were quite profuse today. Can anyone identify them for me?

I am also seeing many beautiful, tissue-thin poppies. They have been with me all the way from Canterbury whee I began the Via Francigena some years ago
Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

...The Crimson flowers in the photo were quite profuse today. Can anyone identify them for me?...

...Hi there @BobM. It might be Italian Clover, also known as Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum ). In some countries it is cultivated as a forage crop for cattle...

Ultreia e suseia!

 

[BobM]

...It might be Italian Clover, also known as Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum ). In some countries it is cultivated as a forage crop for cattle...

Thanks. That's quite probable. I must look more closely at the leaves next time I see these flowers. I have seen a local clover with three very elongated leaves compared to clover I am familiar with.

Apart from the familiar poppies that grow right across Europe, I have also seen wild dill, another constant along roads across Europe. There are also oleanders, which are typical of the hotter southern countries like Spain and italy. As I get higher in the hills I am seeing oaks and pines.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

This flower is trickier. It is only a couple of centimetres long, if that, but is a beautiful powder blue colour and grows profusely on tangled shrubs.

The most distinctive feature of the plant is its furriness. It was common early on my walk but now I never see it.

One woman at a bnb said it was "borangia" or something that sounded like that. She said (I think) that you can eat it. It has other uses but I could not follow her explanation.

It would be nice to get the proper identification.

There must be heaps of "weeds" along our walks that are edible or useful, if only we could positively identify them. There would be a market for a good app to plants etc along pilgrimage routes that were used in times past.
Bobm

 

[mspath]

It appears to be borage, borago officinalis, known since Roman times as an herb.
See more here.

For further comments re wild plants along the camino scan this earlier Forum thread.

Carpe diem!

 

[BobM]

It appears to be borage, borago officinalis, known since Roman times as an herb.

Thanks. That is the plant for sure.

Bob

 

[BobM]

Sunday May 29. Benevento, at rest.

How glorious to wake up and not have to saddle up today. I am staying at the Domus Traiani. Very good. Wonderful hosts.

The day is hot and humid so I am glad to rest here.

Today is all about planning the next few days.

The pic shows where I had dinner last night in front of the Arch of Trajan.

The staff were great, but they did not believe that I had walked from Rome until I showed them my route on my phone. They gave me an unsolicited pilgrim disount. Benevento is a big interesting city and good for a break.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Benevento is a great place for a break. Energetic and full of young people and an air of prosperity and progress. It has a university so maybe that is why there are so many young people.

The Cathedral is sparsely beautiful. All the complicated structures of traditional cathedrals have been pared back to their structural artistic and religious essence. Almost Jesuit in its simple purity. It has a good museum under the structure showing earlier stages of use.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

I have identified convenient places to stay through the mountains to Troia and have sent texts in Italian explaining I am a pilgrim walking the Via Francigena and needa single room for a night.

So far after a day not a single response to my 4 texts. All 4 need to be confirmed before I set out into this isolated area. I can't afford to be stranded with no food water or place to stay.

The area has some brutal climbs up to 900 metres and one stage has navigation issues.

None of the addresses show up on any of my maps and I have only Google map plots.

So if I can't sort it out by tomorrow it will be the train to Foggia.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

Monday May 30 at Benevento

I feel strong again after my break and some good meals. The weather is still good.

I have had no luck finalising a confirmed program from Benevento to Troia. It is 69km which my guide breaks into 3 stages. I would need 5 given the ascents and altitude of up to 900 metres.

The main problem stage is about 16km from Malvizza to Celle di San Vito which has an ascent of 290 metres in 3.6km. That alone would take me 2 hours. It also has an off-road section of about 4km on ill-defined paths across farm fields where the guide warns of navigational issues.

I have had no luck contacting all of the places I would need to stay at.

The inefficiency and uncertainty of booking places to stay in these isolated hills is a frustrating show-stopper for me and I have given up the struggle.

Now I will take the train to Foggia tomorrow and pick up the Via Francigena from there. I should reach Bari in about 8 days from Foggia.

Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

I have had no luck contacting all of the places I would need to stay at...

Hi @BobM. Have you considered walking the road from Malvizza? It's about 19 kms to Celle di San Vito a sizeable village with 200 inhabitants, a municipio and chiesa parrocciale, places where a pellegrino might enquire. Show them your credencial and see what happens...

Cheers
LK

 

[BobM]

Hi @BobM. Have you considered walking the road from Malvizza? It's about 19 kms

There is no single direct road. The tricky cross-country section I mentioned connects two roads. Roads in the mountains here are limited and convoluted. A route all on roads would add about 14km to the stage.

Distances may appear short on a map but there is a brutal cross-country gradient to climb. I have already climbed 3 similar at much lower altitudes on this walk and I have no desire to do this one without the certainty of food and lodging at the end.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

There are two buses per day from Benevento to Orsara di Puglia. One departs at 0545 and the other at 1425. I think the journey takes over an hour. Then there is about a 10km uphill walk to Troia. It would mean a late arrival if taking the last bus.

The other possibility I looked at was walking from Benevento on the major roads SS90bis and then the SS90 followed by the S160 to Troia (about 11km uphill on the S160). The gradients are okay but there is a dearth of accommodation which would mean impractical detours.

There are actually about 8 feasible places along or near the official VF route from Benevento to Troia but many of their contact phones are either switched off when I call or simply not answered. Texts or emails are rarely answered. I have a UK SIM card in my phone and it occurred to me that maybe they don't want to incur roaming costs to reply. Maybe I am just too early in the tourist season.

What is really needed is for a "friend of the VF" from Benevento to visit each of the 8 feasible places by car, record GPS coordinates, take a few photos and leave a leaflet explaining the Via Francigena and the special needs of walkers, stressing the need for phones to be attended and answered promptly in sparsely populated areas.

Accom providers think of people arriving by car and have no concept of walking and how it limits a walker's options. That's true all along the Via Francigena from Canterbury not just in Italy.

GPS coordinates are needed because many bnbs don't have signs and the locals don't know where they are. Sometimes the locals don't know the names of smaller streets like viales and contradas either, and many idiosyncratic local names don't show up on my maps.

Bobm

 

[mspath]

Sorry to learn of your predicament. Is it possible to ask your current host to call using their local phone to the places you wish to reserve? Perhaps that way you might get a response.

This coming Thursday, June 2, is Republic day, a national holiday in Italy. Be prepared!

Hopefully the way ahead will be easier!

 

[lovingkindness]

There is no single direct road. The tricky cross-country section I mentioned connects two roads. Roads in the mountains here are limited and convoluted. A route all on roads would add about 14km to the stage.

Distances may appear short on a map but there is a brutal cross-country gradient to climb. I have already climbed 3 similar at much lower altitudes on this walk and I have no desire to do this one without the certainty of food and lodging at the end.

Bobm

OK, BobM, how about this:

https://www.google.co.nz/maps/dir/C...9f579d4ffac!2m2!1d15.0648835!2d41.2522896!3e2

http://www.comune.celledisanvito.fg.it/cms/cms_arg.php?idarg=26 food

blessings on your day, whatever you choose...

 

[BobM]

Tuesday May 31 Benevento to Foggia

Today began with bancomat dramas, continued with a train ride to Foggia and ended with a 6km walk along main roads to my Hotel Atletia near Foggia airport.

I went out early to get more money. The bancomat glowed briefly then all the lights went out and it would not return my card. That certainly gets the heart racing. I had to wait until the bank opened at 8:20am and the staff retrieved my card. I had to show my passport as proof of ID.

Learning Points: Always use bancomats in business hours in case things go wrong. Always have your passport with you.

The dramas were not yet over. Two of three bancomats were out of service. The third would not accept my bank account card because it was not a "Plus" participant. Look at the back of your card to see what I mean. In fact none of the bancomats were Plus participants. So the only way I could get cash was as an advance from my Visa credit card.

The 1-hour train to Foggia passed through bare hills and then summery farmland with grain crops starting to ripen.

I was only in Foggia briefly but I got the impression that they think they are pretty special people. I stopped to buy cheese and ham in a supermarket. The young woman in front of me gave me a very superior inspection and made it clear that her judgment was not favourable.

Maybe I was a little paranoid but she seemed to deliberately string out her purchases with smiles and grimaces at the shop assistant; choosing one sort of ham after long consultations about its merits, then changing her mind as I waited in line in all my gear.

My hotel the Atletia is a comfortable basic travellers hotel near the airport. It is the big building in the last photo.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

[QUOTE="lovingkindness, post
blessings on your day, whatever you choose...[/QUOTE]
Thanks for taking the trouble to do some research for me. It is always nice to have a copilot, even a remote one.

The rest of the walk to Bari is very flat so hopefully I can do longer stages. But it is getting very hot in the sun on roads by noon.

My days of doing stage after stage of 25-30KM per day are over,alas. Now 20-25km in flat country is my limit. In hilly country that falls to 15-20km/day. It has also ruled out continuing on the Via Egnatia this year.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

Breakfast at my hotel starts at 6:30am. I have been impressed with how early I have been able to get breakfast on this walk. Very important in hot weather.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

I have been able to get fast WiFi in most of the placesI have stayed at. Otherwise these updates as well as all my accom research would have been prohibitively expensive.

A comment on water. My VF angel at Sezze advised me not to drink tap water becauseof pollution. Much of it has a definite taste. The only place I was suspicious was in Velletri, where the tap water had a very sweet taste. Arsenic or lead contamination sprang to mind. Lead I doubt, but arsenic could not be ruled out.

There was a spectacular mistake in Bangladesh where an NGO sank deep wells into an aquifer contaminated with high levels of arsenic in a well-meaning effort to supply villages with water. Google it.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

Some more homework.

I have ruled out continuing on the Via Egnatia because I am walking too slowly.

I have to be back in Rome by July 10 to catch my flight home to Melbourne.

So I have lots of spare time after reaching Bari in about 7 days.

One option would be to walk another week to Brindisi but that seems a little pointless.

Another option would be to take ferries to Athens and fly to Tel Aviv and walk to Jerusalem. But I left all my guides and info on trail angels for Israel at home. I wonder how feasible it would be to just turn up in Tel Aviv and work out a program on site at a tourist office?

A third option would be to do something normal for once and just be a tourist in Italy, albeit a scruffy one.

If Dominique (domigee) is following this thread I would value her opinion as a recent hiker to Jerusalem.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

View from my hotel room.

 

[lovingkindness]

Hi BobM, I'm looking forward to what's next! Cheers....

 

[mspath]

What about taking a ferry from Brindisi to Corfu or Patras, Greece and wandering about? What a multitude of possibilties lie before you!
Carpe diem!

 

[BobM]

Hi BobM, I'm looking forward to what's next! Cheers....

This is live from the field, anything could happen. You are getting the raw unvarnished emotions of the participant as events unfold - not carefully -crafted Facebook postings. BTW have I mentioned that Facebook is an exploitative abomination??
Bobm

 

[BobM]

What about taking a ferry from Brindisi to Corfu or Patras, Greece and wandering about? What a multitude of possibilties lie before you!
Carpe diem!

You can read minds. I am toying with the idea of going to the Monastery at Mount Athos and having a retreat.

This walk may well be my swansong as a long distance walker. Time catches up withall of us eventually and I would like to end on a reflective high and not just peter out in some inconclusive way.

Bobm

 

[mspath]

What a great idea! I've always wanted to go there but unfortunately am doomed to only dream from below.

Hope you can make it!

 

[BobM]

Wednesday 1 Junio Foggia to Orta Nova 25.5km

When I went to breakfast at 6:30am the dining room was a hive of activity. There was a big group of workers in high-vis vests and a big group of polizei.

A miracle occurred last evening. Rather than pay booking.com prices I sent what I thought would be yet another fruitless text message to the owner of the Maison d'Antan at Cerignola, my destination for tomorrow. An immediate reply ensued followed by exchanges on my arrival and reception arrangements. I am looking forward to meeting him and his two fellow musketeers.

Today was cool, cloudy and totally flat walking through farms on relatively quiet secondary roads. No navigation issues. I am now back on the Via Francigena route.

It started to spit with rain but not enough to require a poncho.

I am staying at the Hotel Novelli on the SS16. It is a typical busy motorway hotel.

I managed to crank out almost 26km today so maybe I am not as decrepit as I thought I was.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Can anyone identify the flower in the pics?You have been remarkably helpful so far.
Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

...is it Common Mallow flower? - Malva sylvestris

 

[BobM]

Thursday 2 Junio Orta Nova to Carignola 21km

I was able to get breakfast at 6.30am and start walking at 7.15.

The route was on secondary roads through olive and grape farms with some wheat and vegetables. The vines are just setting tiny fruit.

Most of the roads were dead straight which made for boring walking. The temperature was only about 26 degrees but it was very hot walking after 11 30.

Stornara was the only town l passed through.

Cerignola marks a branch in the Via Francigena. You can divert to the coast all the way to Bari; or you can follow the official route inland through small towns about 20km apart, such as Canosa di Puglia, Corato and Bitonto. The coast is easier re stages and accommodation. I am running into my old bugbear of researching accom and it is frustratingly time consuming

More later
Bob5

 

[BobM]

The bnb Maison d'Antan is actually Casa Moccia. The building is an old home called Maison d'Antan. Very nice and the host is welcoming but they don't serve breakfast before 8am and would not budge. Good location in the centre.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Well, here I am waiting impatiently for my 8am breakfast at Casa Moccia aka Maison d'Antan.

I will walk down the highway to Canosa di Puglia to make up for the wasted hour.

Carignola is an interesting town historically, but I am back in the land of watchful suspicious people.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

Cerignola to Canosa di Puglia 15.3km

Today was a day of prostiutes, a Roman bridge and a wedding. The official VF route is on minor roads and is about 19km. I used the SP 95bis and the SP231.

The highway has wide safe tarmac verges and was not as busy as I was expecting. There were a lot of trucks. I nearly got collected by one overtaking from behind me that came right across onto the left lane.

I saw maybe 10 prostitutes working the road. All in black hot pants, tight tops and high heels. They were sitting on small stools in laybys and had a bag with some necessary items. A few smiled at me. There was no place to perform the act, so they were obviously servicing truck drivers with their sleeping cabins.

I passed over a section of Roman bridge and some other ruins just before Canosa. Well restored.

There was a big Italian wedding under way in Canosa when I arrived.

Now I am back in the land of friendly people again.

Good walking weather all day

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Canosa di Puglia is a big surprise. Modern; bustling with activity and animated people. Modern shops. A pretty centre. Big church. Well worth a stay. There must be a university or some such in the area.

I have finally worked out why bnb reception arrangements have been so inefficient for me. I have been arriving about 2pm in the siesta period when shops and businesses are often closed. I have noticed that bnbs come alive about 6pm when they expect normal tourists to arrive and staff sometimes wait on the premises then.
My Hotel Centro is perfectly located in the main square and is easy to find €40/night
Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

Hi there, Bobm, ...in the rural south sometimes at a desolate spot, on a verge or at a crossroads I saw a discarded box of unspoiled food. Did you see any of these? I thought they might be a charitable offering for the asylum seekers and migrants heading north...

 

[BobM]

Hi there, Bobm, ...in the rural south sometimes at a desolate spot, on a verge or at a crossroads I saw a discarded box of unspoiled food. Did you see any of these? I thought they might be a charitable offering for the asylum seekers and migrants heading north...

There is junk and rotting food everywhere you go in Italy . Why would people leave food for migrants as you supposed where it would rot on the off-chance that a refugee would stumble upon it? These migrants are not exactly popular and they don't just wander around Italy at will.

BTW I have seen lots of African farm workers slowly peddling to work on bikes, some looking at their phones as traffic hurtles past.

One of the prostitutes I saw yesterday was an African woman.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

There was a huge celebration in the big square near my hotel that went on well after midnight. I wonder what that was all about. Earlier in the evening the church bells played a long sequence of peals.

Today I am going to Andria. I thought of diverting to the coast and following it to Bari, but it would have meant 3 days walking on urban roads.
Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

There is junk and rotting food everywhere you go in Italy . Why would people leave food for migrants as you supposed where it would rot on the off-chance that a refugee would stumble upon it? These migrants are not exactly popular and they don't just wander around Italy at will....

Actually, many do wander through Italy at will. There is a border town between Italy and France (GR 653d) where asylum seekers and illegals cross in the night. They have done so for generations. A local doctor told me that the villagers witness this year after year, particularly in summer. All that changes is the nationality of those crossing. If apprehended and in need of medical assistance they are taken to the doctor’s surgery first. Many of the migrants hope to reach Great Britain. They get as far as The Jungle at Dunkirk.

Perhaps I was being fanciful re the boxes of food, but I had good reason to be. In Manfredonia I was a guest at the Associazione Interetnica Migrantes. The mission priest had much to say about the plight of asylum seekers and illegals in Foggia and also those on the move.

Cheers

 

[BobM]

Saturday 4 june Canosa di Puglia to Andria 21km

Another straightforward day of walking in good weather on rural roads. This area has big drip-irrigated farms of grapes and olives. The olives are just setting tiny fruit. I still see poppies but they are getting smaller and more orange in colour. There was a lot of farm traffic like tractors and sprayers.

An old farmer in an ancient car offered me a lift, but I tried to explain the Via Francigena and said I had to walk. Yesterday another farmer said I could eat some of the peaches from his farm.

BTW when I asked at the bar at breakfast what the "festival" was about they said there was no festival. It was just the usual Friday night passegiata and dinner in the square.

Tonight I am staying at Borgomurgia. Great welcome, wonderful double room and a good location. I am trying to choose places that are central and near landmarks for ease of navigation.

Tomorrow I go to Ruvo di Puglia. Rain is forecast, but late in the afternoon.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Andria is another delightful town on the Via Francigena to Bari. It is a pity that we get to spend so little time in these lovely places. They all have historical highlights.

My bnb host just sent me a text asking if I needed anything. This place will be on my highlights list I hope to add to the forum after I get home.

Umberto, the friend of my Rome Airbnb host, has just reached Fisterre on foot.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

More on the Borgo Murgia owners Roberta and Vincenzo. They are in their 30s and gave up their careers in Milan and Bologna to start the Borgo Murgia.

They are aiming to make a difference in saving this small town in southern Italy. They run other local activities as well. No space here to do justice to these admirable young people. More details when I get home. €56/night with good breakfast. Fantastic room.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Sunday June 5 Andria to Ruvo di Puglia 21.6km

Vincenzo walked with me to show me the way out of town.
The whole day was through vines and olives on quiet country roads. One long stretch was on stones and dirt.

Had a brief stop in Corato, another interesting town. It had been warm and sunny up to then. Black clouds gathered quickly, there were a few claps of thunder and heavy rain fell for about 40 minutes.

I saw a few odd stone structures (pic) among the olives today.

Ruvo di Puglia is 200 metres above the sea and I had my first glimpse of the ocean 15km away across the coastal plain.

I am staying at the Hotel Pinetta, modern and very efficient.

Today was quite straightforward. No navigation issues and good weather.

Bobm

 

[mspath]

Glad that you had a good day Bob! Always enjoy your comments and photos but especially like today's of the stone trullo.

More than 35 years ago while wandering about the Bari/Brindisi area on a Vespa one architectural delight of many was discovering these delightful vernacular structures. Thanks for rekindling those memories.

Carpe diem!

 

[BobM]

I saw something like the trullos on the Via Podensis in France; or was it on the Via Francigena in France.

Now that the Via Francigena del Sud is winding down (a very arrogant attitude with 2 days still to walk) I am getting into a reflective mood.

Apart from the poppies that have been my evocative friends along the entire route, with so many personal associations, there has also been a simple weed that I first saw near Canterbury,each one with its little beetle on top. There are no beetles on the local species, only the distinctive little black 'object'in the centre of each cluster

Bobm

 

[BobM]

So many people have cared for me on the Via Francigena del Sud. Some regularly check up on me through WhatsApp, like the de Renzis and my Airbnb host in Rome. Others have asked me to call them if I needed help, such as Vincenzo as he watched me walk away this morning.

I think they worry about me wandering around Italy alone.

I can never thank these people enough for their care for a quiet and simple stranger who passed so briefly through their lives and can't even speak their language. I will never forget them.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Today is a Sunday and the hotel is a heaving mass of people this evening.


There are 7 First Communion parties in full swing with big family groups celebrating the first communion of their 10-11 year old children.

The ocean is now tantalizingly close as I look from my room.

I plan to stay in Bari for 3 nights to figure out my next move. Mount Athos or Jerusalem I think.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Monday June 6 Ruvo di Puglia to Bitonto 20km

Today was quite good walking on quiet roads in good weather with no navigation issues.

The route followed the Via Appia Triaina on a straight stony road through olive plantations. No vines or other crops

Today was the patron saint's day for Ruvo di Puglia and there were loud explosions as rockets exploded leaving white puffs of smoke.

A very young priest and a couple of parishioners were admiring a big floral arrangement on the pavement in front of the Cathedral and were very interested in my walk and also very knowledgeable. One man spoke good English and said that local people were not always welcoming to pilgrims passing through.

I am staying at a wonderful pilgrim -friendly bnb right on the Via Francigena in Bitonto. I will say more in my next post. My index finger is getting tired pecking out this update and needs a rest.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

My bnb Il Grifone at Via Amedeo 41 Bitonto is right on the Via Francigena and close to the Cathedral. The Cathedral has an old (Roman?) mosaic of a griffin, hence the name.

Angela the owner was on site to let me in and she was very interested in the Via Francigena and my walk. She had some fruit for me and also gave me a tiny bottle of local olive oil.

She is a lovely person and made me feel immediately at home.

The bnb has a small kitchen and a spacious practical bathroom with a washing machine. WiFi.

This bnb will be on my special recommendation list. €40 with voucher for breakfast at Bar Castello.

Bitonto is yet another interesting town. All these towns on the latter stages of the Via Francigena are about 20km apart making stages of either 20 or 40km. There is intermediate accom in places of lesser interest - or you can easily divert to the coast. I don't recommend that because you will be walking through urban streets mostly.

I have stared to look at options for Mount Athos and arranging to stay there is far from simple. Google Wikitravel Mount Athos and you will see what is involved. In the June to August peak season you may need to apply 6 months in advance. Only 10 non-Orthodox Christians per day are allowed entry.

Anyway that's for later

Tomorrow will be a 20km walk mainly arundel the airport and through the extensive industrial and urban areas of Bari.
Bobm

 

[BobM]

At the Cathedral in Ruvo di Puglia when I was talking with the priest and two parishioners I said that I was a Protestant and not a Catholic.

"All Italians are protestants too," one joked. "We protest about everything."

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Tuesday June 7 Bitonto to Bari 21.9km

A puzzle was solved today. I have been wondering about my short stages and putting it down to decrepitude. Today I recorded my track with my Locus Maps app as well as my Garmin GPS unit.

The Garmin GPS recorded 17.2km and Locus Maps 21.9km. The latter is close to my manual calculation. There are other reasons to suspect the health of the GPS.

So most of my reported stage distances are suspect and probably short by variable amounts. I will try to give maually calculated distances when I get home.

Anyway today's walk was quite straightforward in good weather.

Up to the airport area the route passed through olives. No vines.

Then the route headed north to the sea and a pleasant sea breeze. Them it was a hot slog on urban streets to the Hotel Adria near the train station. It is not in the best area but the room is big and has good facilities including tea making.

The nicest area to stay in is the old city with heaps of bnbs to choose. But I needed an efficient hotel and facilities to plan my next step.

Anyway, don't go away just yet. I will post more later.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

Well, here I am in Bari after having almost got on a bus at Cori to catch a train back to Rome and abandon the Via Francigena.

Luckily I had half an hour to wait for the bus. As I sat dejectedly at the bus stop, I became more and more certain that I should continue, one day at a time, and everything would turn out okay.

So I stood up and walked away. I won't say with a light heart, but with confidence that this day would be okay and then I would see about the next day and so it went.

If I had been only just in time to catch that bus everything would have been different.

Bobm

 

[lovingkindness]

Ultreia!

 

[norelle]

I'm enjoying your posts, photos and reflections...........and admiring your strength!

Ultreia!

 

[BobM]

One of the problems of not being fluent in Italian is that questions and the like can be perceived as abrupt or even rude because we don't know the nice way of putting things that come easily to fluent speakers..

One can smile and say "Vorrei" instead of "Voglio" when making a request, but if the other person is not all that receptive of itinerant walkers any infelicities of languagebecome just another barrier.

I used Google Translate quite a bit when communicating. I would tap out the text and show the Italian text to the other person. That often created a bond - at least with younger people

Anyway I I will have some more general conclusions later on other aspects of this very different walk.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

This post is not easy to write, but I must do it.

When you check your email before saddling up for another day it can be irksome to spend time pecking out a reply to a question that does not seem particularly helpful when you have so much else on your mind.

Unfortunately, a few days ago I responded impatiently and possibly hurtfully to one such well-meaning question from lovingkindness.

Since my response was public, my apology for causing any hurt must also be public and I offer it here to LK.

Bobm

 

[BobM]

I have been wondering about the reluctance of most bnb owners to respond to texts, even when written in Italian.

It struck me that some of them might not have modern smart phones. Older phones were a total pain to text with.
Bobm