Primitivo in August

[scubajunky]

HI All,
I'm considering the Primitivo in August, will it be crazy busy at this time of year?
I'm not sure I could cope with the race for beds and not getting one !!
Are there enough Alberges to cope with everyone ?I don't want to have to pay Euros20 + for a bed.
Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Scubajunky,

The Primitivo will be plenty busy this August. It was plenty busy this June (Grado albergue typically full by 2 pm). But there are new albergues popping up all the time. I think the Berducedo bottleneck is now basically solved, with one municipal albergue, two private albergues, one bar with 8 or 9 rooms, and another albergue on the way. And the post-Lugo crunch has been solved with the opening of a second albergue in Ponte Ferreira. There's a new private albergue in Grandas de Salime.

As more and more private alternatives open, that means you can typically reserve in advance, which may reduce the rush for the municipal albergue beds.

One of the things that may make things seem crunched is the fact that there isn't as much ability to plan "off stage" accommodations. Though the numbers of albergues are increasing, the location choices aren't increasing as much. Most of the new albergues are being built in the places that already formed the "end stage" if that makes sense.

I think the crunch/rush will be less on the Primitivo than the Frances, though, so everything is relative.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Pierre Julian]

Thanks Scuba for posting a question I've been meaning to ask, I will watch the messages with interest. I'm trying to decide whether to continue my Portuguese Camino going on from Tomar, or my northern Camino from Santander. I didn't enjoy either of them as much as the Camino Frances, but can't bear the bed race and want a bit more peace and quiet while still meeting some great people and seeing beautiful places. Maybe Primitivo is the best option. What are the best guide books (or online) for the Primitivo please?

 

[scubajunky]

Thanks for the responses, I'll be interested to see what else comes up, I'm assuming that the private alberges are only a few euros more than the municipal alberges.
Sounds quite promising that there are new alberges opening up.
I have walked the Frances and loved it. I walked the Portugues in April and though I enjoyed it did not enjoy it as much as the Frances. The Muxia Finesteree add on was worthwhile though.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks Scuba for posting a question I've been meaning to ask, I will watch the messages with interest. I'm trying to decide whether to continue my Portuguese Camino going on from Tomar, or my northern Camino from Santander. I didn't enjoy either of them as much as the Camino Frances, but can't bear the bed race and want a bit more peace and quiet while still meeting some great people and seeing beautiful places. Maybe Primitivo is the best option. What are the best guide books (or online) for the Primitivo please?

Start with Liz's resource: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...tiago-and-then-to-muxia-finisterre-guide.225/

Caminka just added an accommodation list:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/accommodation-list-for-primitivo-2016.492/

If you read Spanish, the Eroski site has a great Primitivo guide, with detailed walking instructions (though those are not necessary because of how well marked it is), albergues, cultural attractions, etc.

 

[Pierre Julian]

Thanks for that, I'll check out those links now.

 

[scubajunky]

Anybody else on the primitivo at the moment ? any other observations on how busy the camino is in July / August and the accommodation options ?

 

[homebuilt]

Hi, I'am planning on starting the primitivo on the 26th of August. The idea of being in a race to get a bed each night does not appeal to me. I was hoping to plodd along stopping and exploring when the fancy took me. Any more information on how busy August / September is likely to be would be a helpful.

 

[scubajunky]

Has anybody else done it in August and do you have the same rush for beds that you have on the Frances at this time of year ?

 

[laurap]

I'm on the primitive now, and I agree with Laurie that the major pinch points have now been solved. Additionally, with new private albwrgues opening, some of the municipals are seeing fewer pilgrims than previously--and thus have more space. When I arrived in Tineo around 6pm the municipal albergue (36 beds I think?) only had 12 people in it. Similarly when I arrived late in Grandas de Salime, there were still beds available. So, I think if you are a bit flexible with your schedule, and/or make some reservations in advance you'll be fine!

 

[scubajunky]

Thanks for taking the time to reply, nice to have confirmation. Assuming that now is similar to August ( not sure exactly when Spanish holidays start ) it's good to know it's not overrun with people, how are you enjoying the experience?

 

[homebuilt]

Can I also say thank you for taking time to reply and I hope that you are enjoying the experience. How are your feet doing?

 

[laurap]

Yes the route has been great so far--really beautiful! Ive met a lot of wonderful pilgrims, and have been very lucky with my feet--just a few small blisters and the usual end-of-day aches!

 

[IngridF]

Start with Liz's resource: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...tiago-and-then-to-muxia-finisterre-guide.225/

Caminka just added an accommodation list:
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/accommodation-list-for-primitivo-2016.492/

If you read Spanish, the Eroski site has a great Primitivo guide, with detailed walking instructions (though those are not necessary because of how well marked it is), albergues, cultural attractions, etc.

Thank you so much for your lists.... as I am starting to flag things for 2017 Primitivo.

 

[IngridF]

I'm on the primitive now, and I agree with Laurie that the major pinch points have now been solved. Additionally, with new private albwrgues opening, some of the municipals are seeing fewer pilgrims than previously--and thus have more space. When I arrived in Tineo around 6pm the municipal albergue (36 beds I think?) only had 12 people in it. Similarly when I arrived late in Grandas de Salime, there were still beds available. So, I think if you are a bit flexible with your schedule, and/or make some reservations in advance you'll be fine!

Hi Laurap, since you are walking now, what is the average temperature now on the primitivo. Thanks

 

[Pierre Julian]

Hi Laurap, thanks for your updates. I can't make up my mind which camino, and really want to do the Primitivo, it's just the crowds and bed racing in August that concerns me. Any further updates gratefully received. Thanks

 

[laurap]

Temperature has varied a lot! Today in Lugo was maybe the hottest its been, at 96 degrees fahrenheit, but last week it was fairly chilly for the summer (mid 60s) and raining...so, the whole variety!

Albergue have still not been a problem--there are lots of options and new private albergue now scattered thought the route, which alleviate the rush for beds a bit and also allow you to make a reservation if you want the peace of mind.

 

[Maxie]

I've just finished the Primativo 1pm today. I had no problems at all getting a bed in an alburgue de peregrino. I averaged 30k per day and dont get up before 7, then cook my breakfast and start walking around 8am. The latest arrival time 4pm, some off the alburgues were almost empty 4 of us at perdon 4 of us at bedonaya although this is strange for David's place.The only alburgue that was full was at Cordova.

 

[peregrina2000]

Congratulations, Maxie! Good to hear about the availability of beds. I think August will be busier, but with all the new places open on the Primitivo I think it'll be fine. What is Perdon? And I think you must mean that the only full albergue was Cadavo, not Cordova. That's another "bunching up" spot for the next day into Lugo, but a bunch of us walked another 8 km into Castroverde, where there is a nice (new) albergue and a pension. That makes for a short day into Lugo, which is nice, because there is so much to enjoy there. Hope you had a great Primitivo.
Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

What is Perdon?

I think it was meant to be Padron with Xunta albergue (24 places).

 

[peregrina2000]

I think it was meant to be Padron with Xunta albergue (24 places).

But that's not on the Primitivo, K1. What's your next guess?

 

[KinkyOne]

But that's not on the Primitivo, K1. What's your next guess?

It is, Laurie! Padron is 1,6km after A Fonsagrada and 3,4km before Vilardongo

 

[peregrina2000]

It is, Laurie! Padron is 1,6km after A Fonsagrada and 3,4km before Vilardongo

Oh oh oh, of course. I always call that albergue the A Fonsagrada albergue, and always think of Padron as being on the Portugues. Part of the reason why there were so few in Padron is probably because of the private albergue Cantabrico, which is in town and really nice. But I have stayed in Padron, too, and thought it was fine, and I remember a (rare) fully equipped kitchen!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Laurie, there is a Padron on the Primitivo, just after A Fonsagrada. A tradional type albergue.

 

[scubajunky]

It's all sound very promising at the moment then, I think I will book my Camino P for a start in the next couple of weeks. Updates still appreciated though, I suppose a guide book will be of little use with so many new places to stay any way !!

 

[Tia Valeria]

@scubajunky - if you buy the CSJ guide to the Primitivo (2013) you can add notes from the various updated on-line sites, including CSJ's current updates - same page pdf format. When you get home if you email any updates that you find they will post them online for others to read before the next paper update. A nice way to give something back for fellow pilgrims walking afterwards, and a help for the paper update too.

 

[Dieter Peeters]

Thanks for all the information! Knowing there will be enough places to sleep gives me a peace of mind when i'll start the primitivo in two weeks (after a week on the norte). How many co-pelgrims did you meet/see a day?

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Dieter, welcome to the forum.

I walked the Primitivo in late June, and there were probably between 25-40 pilgrims a day on most stages. Always companionship if you wanted it, but easy to walk alone if that was your preference. I think there will be larger numbers in August, let us know! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[scubajunky]

How many days should the primitivo take on average then?

 

[Dieter Peeters]

I have yet to walk the primitivo, but according to most guides +- 14 days.

 

[scubajunky]

on the Camino at the moment, first stop Grado, alberge full and San Jose full, I hope its not like this the whole way !!! really hope there is not a rush for beds every day !!!
any updates ?

 

[peregrina2000]

on the Camino at the moment, first stop Grado, alberge full and San Jose full, I hope its not like this the whole way !!! really hope there is not a rush for beds every day !!!
any updates ?

Hi, Scubajunky, I don't think that this necessarily means that the rest of the camino will be crushed. The opening of the albergue in Grado seems to have meant that more pilgrims leave Oviedo with that as their fixed destination, meaning you get more of a crunch on this first stage than when more people went to Escamplero, or to some of the places after San Juan. At least I hope I am right!

Where did you spend your first night? For others starting out, there is a small hotel in Grado with good pilgrim prices, and if that hotel is full, the owners have one (or two) apartments across the street. I stayed in a three bedroom flat with a couple in one room and a single guy in another. Bathroom and kitchen were modern and clean. I think it was 20 E.

Buen camino to you, looking forward to hearing how it goes for you, Laurie

 

[Kanga]

Anyone staying in the albergue in Grado in August, say Hi to Margaret and Rowan, two great people from our Blue Mountains group, who will be hospitaleros for two weeks in August. Be gentle with them!

 

[peregrina2000]

Anyone staying in the albergue in Grado in August, say Hi to Margaret and Rowan, two great people from our Blue Mountains group, who will be hospitaleros for two weeks in August. Be gentle with them!

Lucky hospitaleros, this is a great little town with a great little albergue. They will enjoy, I'm sure.

 

[scubajunky]

Yes, that's where I stayed last night. Alberges full in Salas today too. Mattress on the floor job tonight ! all part of the fun !

 

[peregrina2000]

Glad to see that you're enjoying it and having fun. Meeting lots of awesome people, I hope. And eating lots of good food! Would love to hear more when you have time, but I know that writing while on the camino is not everyone's cup of tea, especially when there's such fun to be had. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Juanma]

Hello there! From the hospitalero point of view (in a leg of the camino right after Lugo, first leg of the last 100km to Santiago), I can say that August looks like it's going to be VERY busy. Usually the 2-3 last and first days of every month here in Ferreira are very quiet (don't ask me why, I'm not sure); however, the first days of August have been quite busy (except today, that I only have 9 pilgrims at Albergue A Nave and about 12 in Ponte Ferreira; one of the pilgrims in A Nave has a communal, 7-person room with a bathroom inside just for himself, and he's astonished hahaha...). But even on the couple of days that I've had both albergues full, no one has had to stay without a bed, as they carried on to As Seixas and they still had enough beds there (actually didn't get totally full).

As I always say: in Summer (and especially in August), it's not a bad idea to call one or two days in advance and book your bed in a private albergue. It costs a little extra, but it gives you peace of mind and you can take your time during the walk ...plus you have extra services which you don't have in a public albergue (usually). But of course, I'm the owner of a private albergue, so what else am I expected to say...

 

[HeidiL]

Anyone staying in the albergue in Grado in August, say Hi to Margaret and Rowan, two great people from our Blue Mountains group, who will be hospitaleros for two weeks in August. Be gentle with them!

Will do - I'll be working there then, too.

 

[HeidiL]

They're wonderful people! Working with them here now, and we were just interviewed by our Asturian overlords' main tv channel. Fun!

 

[WestKirsty]

Hello there! From the hospitalero point of view (in a leg of the camino right after Lugo, first leg of the last 100km to Santiago), I can say that August looks like it's going to be VERY busy. Usually the 2-3 last and first days of every month here in Ferreira are very quiet (don't ask me why, I'm not sure); however, the first days of August have been quite busy (except today, that I only have 9 pilgrims at Albergue A Nave and about 12 in Ponte Ferreira; one of the pilgrims in A Nave has a communal, 7-person room with a bathroom inside just for himself, and he's astonished hahaha...). But even on the couple of days that I've had both albergues full, no one has had to stay without a bed, as they carried on to As Seixas and they still had enough beds there (actually didn't get totally full).

I finished my Camino in Muxia a week or so ago and I think I was one of the 9 pilgrims at your Albergue that day in early August!

It is a beautiful new Albergue with great food and a nice atmosphere. Very clean and all the amenities a pilgrim needs...thank you! I hope more pilgrims are stopping at a great little spot

 

[Juanma]

I finished my Camino in Muxia a week or so ago and I think I was one of the 9 pilgrims at your Albergue that day in early August!

It is a beautiful new Albergue with great food and a nice atmosphere. Very clean and all the amenities a pilgrim needs...thank you! I hope more pilgrims are stopping at a great little spot

Hi Kirsty!, and thank you for your nice words So happy you enjoyed your stay at A Nave

To update my last message in this post, I must say that August is behaving very very quietly. I have had quite a few days of less than half occupation in both albergues, with some days of actually just a few pilgrims in each one. Only 4 or 5 days of actual rush and lots of people so far this month.