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West Highland Way, Scotland! I'm back!

Time of past OR future Camino
Frances SJPP to SdC Oct/Nov 2015
Frances Burgos toSdC March/April 2016
W. Highland Way August 2016
Camino Somewhere September 2017
Some time ago--well, August 18th!--I left the USA for the UK. In brief, I asked my husband to walk the Camino with me, but he admitted that he really wanted to visit Scotland and England. In particular, he wanted to go to Patrington, England to see the home of some ancestors. He also wanted to go to the Scottish Highlands, to see the home of his Scottish clans.

I began the research, and discovered two long-distance walks: first, The John Muir Trail, which is fairly new. When I discovered the West Highland Way--one of the oldest of the Scottish long-distance walks--I knew it would be the best one for us. First, it began just north of Glasgow, in a small town called Milngavie (pronounce Mullguy), and it ended in the Highlands, near the seat of the Cameron clan--some of my husband's ancestors.

I knew that walking 96 miles through Scotland could present challenges (midges--a tiny, annoying mosquito swarm that means business) but because Jay is exceptionally fit, I did not anticipate that he would struggle with walking. Neither--neither!--of us did!

I will say about the WHW:

1. In my opinion, it is a bit more challenging than Camino Frances, because of the humidity, rain and roughness of some of the terrain. The walking around Lake Lommond was strenuous--narrow path with lots of rocks (slippery) and a few boulders to squeeze through, not to mention tree roots that you can catch your foot on.

2. It is more expensive than CF in Spain, at least for me. The food was quite good, but I adore the food in Spain so darn much.

3. The people in Scotland are wonderfully helpful and curious, as are the people I found in Spain. I also found that people from all over the world are walking the WHW.

4. For me (and your mileage may vary), it was most helpful to get a bit of help from our Camino Forum before going about how to get around London and how to find accommodations on the WHW. I used MacAdventures, which I discovered after reading someone's post about them wayyyyyy back in March. On the WHW, a lot of European younger folk were using sleeping bags and tents, and there are places to camp along the way, but with all the rain and midges, I would not want to. B and B's then were the way to go. Not as inexpensive as albergues though!

The WHW becomes amazingly beautiful in the later stages, as one walks along large mountains and hills. The greenery and the hills and mountains, and particularly Ben Nevis, are amazing. Ben Nevis, the largest mountain in the UK, is the centerpiece of the Fort William area, and we heard story after story of the climbs, the annual Ben Nevis race up and back, and in the local cemetery, several stones gave testimony to the respect that one MUST give the mountain.

Anyway, thanks to all of you, and yes--we survived navigating around the UK on SO MANY buses, trains, the tube. After several days in, we felt like old pro's, and are proof that old dogs can learn new tricks. My husband and I both returned from our first trip (in our lives) to the UK with a tremendous sense of gratitude and pleasure in how warmly we were received.

Buen Camino!
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Great to hear your report Deb, and to have you back on the forum. Now start planning the next Camino!
 
It sounds like you had a great time! WHW is an excellent trail that really seems to be growing in popularity recently. A nice bonus is that it connects to some other good long-distance trails too: the Great Glen Way and the East Highland Way.

You are right that it is harder than the CF, but as far as 'wilderness' trails go it is about as easy as you can get.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Great to have you back Deb and many thanks for your help with info on the WHW before you left. I will be doing the Great Glen Way only in May/June. This is due to time and $ restraints. Meeting up with a life-long friend who lives in Edinburgh and we will then make some regional trips together. It is also my ancestral home. The family on both sides hail from Aberdeen, Dundee, Aberfeldy.
 
A selection of Camino Jewellery
Thanks so much for the appreciated trip report. This one is on the Bucket List so enjoyed reading your post. Maybe I've been watching too much Outlander but there's just something about Scotland, beautiful countryside, rugged men in kilts and all that.

I found a great product for midges and took it on the C2C with great results. It's called Buzz Away and available at our local drug store but also on Amazon and the Buzz Away site. Stopped for lunch at Midgie Cafe next to a river one day and was engulfed by the little buggers. There's nothing like tiny bugs flooding your nostrils and eyes. Pulled out a Buzz Away wipe and they immediately disappeared. There's no DEET and it smelled like citronella. It worked like a charm and there's always one or two wipes in my pack now. Here's the link:

http://www.buzzawayextreme.com

Did you find maps/GPS that worked well on this route? Thanks again for the report!
 
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@Purple Backpack You can view high-detail Ordnance Survey maps for the whole of the UK - including the WHW - on the UK version of Bing Maps: maps.bing.co.uk

To view OS maps on a mobile phone I use an Android app called Outdoors GB. There are a number of payment options but a £5 annual charge gives online access to the full database.

PS: There is another and cheaper Android app called UK Atlas. One-off payment for unlimited online OS mapping. Can be slow and fussy about which phones it will run on. Worth testing the free version before buying. No offline map storage - I usually take screenshots of my planned route in case I am out of phone coverage.
 
Last edited:
Welcome back - I'm glad your WHW trip was successful.
Next time you visit the UK, consider the very beautiful and fairly strenuous Cotswold Way..
...you can stay with me at approximately the half-way point, the path virtually passes my door.
Looking forward to reading more of your Camino and life advice and opinions here on this forum now you are home.
 
Some time ago--well, August 18th!--I left the USA for the UK. In brief, I asked my husband to walk the Camino with me, but he admitted that he really wanted to visit Scotland and England. In particular, he wanted to go to Patrington, England to see the home of some ancestors. He also wanted to go to the Scottish Highlands, to see the home of his Scottish clans.

I began the research, and discovered two long-distance walks: first, The John Muir Trail, which is fairly new. When I discovered the West Highland Way--one of the oldest of the Scottish long-distance walks--I knew it would be the best one for us. First, it began just north of Glasgow, in a small town called Milngavie (pronounce Mullguy), and it ended in the Highlands, near the seat of the Cameron clan--some of my husband's ancestors.

I knew that walking 96 miles through Scotland could present challenges (midges--a tiny, annoying mosquito swarm that means business) but because Jay is exceptionally fit, I did not anticipate that he would struggle with walking. Neither--neither!--of us did!

I will say about the WHW:

1. In my opinion, it is a bit more challenging than Camino Frances, because of the humidity, rain and roughness of some of the terrain. The walking around Lake Lommond was strenuous--narrow path with lots of rocks (slippery) and a few boulders to squeeze through, not to mention tree roots that you can catch your foot on.

2. It is more expensive than CF in Spain, at least for me. The food was quite good, but I adore the food in Spain so darn much.

3. The people in Scotland are wonderfully helpful and curious, as are the people I found in Spain. I also found that people from all over the world are walking the WHW.

4. For me (and your mileage may vary), it was most helpful to get a bit of help from our Camino Forum before going about how to get around London and how to find accommodations on the WHW. I used MacAdventures, which I discovered after reading someone's post about them wayyyyyy back in March. On the WHW, a lot of European younger folk were using sleeping bags and tents, and there are places to camp along the way, but with all the rain and midges, I would not want to. B and B's then were the way to go. Not as inexpensive as albergues though!

The WHW becomes amazingly beautiful in the later stages, as one walks along large mountains and hills. The greenery and the hills and mountains, and particularly Ben Nevis, are amazing. Ben Nevis, the largest mountain in the UK, is the centerpiece of the Fort William area, and we heard story after story of the climbs, the annual Ben Nevis race up and back, and in the local cemetery, several stones gave testimony to the respect that one MUST give the mountain.

Anyway, thanks to all of you, and yes--we survived navigating around the UK on SO MANY buses, trains, the tube. After several days in, we felt like old pro's, and are proof that old dogs can learn new tricks. My husband and I both returned from our first trip (in our lives) to the UK with a tremendous sense of gratitude and pleasure in how warmly we were received.

Buen Camino!
I also have just not long finished walking the West highland Way....a beautiful walk, but certainly not without its challenges, especially those big rocks, tree roots, gale force winds and icy cold rain. Such a wonderful, sense of achievement at the end though, even though I ended up in hospital with a badly twisted knee......i agree about the Scottish people .....so friendly, helpful and, also curious. After the walk, we spent our time exploring around, eventually ending up in Edinburgh where the last days of The Fringe Festival and the Edinburgh Tatoo were on....a magical trip indeed.
 
Very light, comfortable and compressible poncho. Specially designed for protection against water for any activity.

Our Atmospheric H30 poncho offers lightness and waterproofness. Easily compressible and made with our Waterproof fabric, its heat-sealed interior seams guarantee its waterproofness. Includes carrying bag.

€60,-
Some time ago--well, August 18th!--I left the USA for the UK. In brief, I asked my husband to walk the Camino with me, but he admitted that he really wanted to visit Scotland and England. In particular, he wanted to go to Patrington, England to see the home of some ancestors. He also wanted to go to the Scottish Highlands, to see the home of his Scottish clans.

I began the research, and discovered two long-distance walks: first, The John Muir Trail, which is fairly new. When I discovered the West Highland Way--one of the oldest of the Scottish long-distance walks--I knew it would be the best one for us. First, it began just north of Glasgow, in a small town called Milngavie (pronounce Mullguy), and it ended in the Highlands, near the seat of the Cameron clan--some of my husband's ancestors.

I knew that walking 96 miles through Scotland could present challenges (midges--a tiny, annoying mosquito swarm that means business) but because Jay is exceptionally fit, I did not anticipate that he would struggle with walking. Neither--neither!--of us did!

I will say about the WHW:

1. In my opinion, it is a bit more challenging than Camino Frances, because of the humidity, rain and roughness of some of the terrain. The walking around Lake Lommond was strenuous--narrow path with lots of rocks (slippery) and a few boulders to squeeze through, not to mention tree roots that you can catch your foot on.

2. It is more expensive than CF in Spain, at least for me. The food was quite good, but I adore the food in Spain so darn much.

3. The people in Scotland are wonderfully helpful and curious, as are the people I found in Spain. I also found that people from all over the world are walking the WHW.

4. For me (and your mileage may vary), it was most helpful to get a bit of help from our Camino Forum before going about how to get around London and how to find accommodations on the WHW. I used MacAdventures, which I discovered after reading someone's post about them wayyyyyy back in March. On the WHW, a lot of European younger folk were using sleeping bags and tents, and there are places to camp along the way, but with all the rain and midges, I would not want to. B and B's then were the way to go. Not as inexpensive as albergues though!

The WHW becomes amazingly beautiful in the later stages, as one walks along large mountains and hills. The greenery and the hills and mountains, and particularly Ben Nevis, are amazing. Ben Nevis, the largest mountain in the UK, is the centerpiece of the Fort William area, and we heard story after story of the climbs, the annual Ben Nevis race up and back, and in the local cemetery, several stones gave testimony to the respect that one MUST give the mountain.

Anyway, thanks to all of you, and yes--we survived navigating around the UK on SO MANY buses, trains, the tube. After several days in, we felt like old pro's, and are proof that old dogs can learn new tricks. My husband and I both returned from our first trip (in our lives) to the UK with a tremendous sense of gratitude and pleasure in how warmly we were received.

Buen Camino!

Congratulations Deb. I walked the WHW last year and have often thought that I would like to do parts of it again. Particularily the area around Glencoe and the "King's House hotel across the road from the ski hills and the main highway. We stayed at the Kings house and my hiking partner said: "you'll really love the shower" When I started the water, boiling water came out of the shower head and freezing water came out of the faucet. He told me he danced around quickly for a rudimentary wash. I asked him how he ever became a leader in his company. Put a plug in, run both the shower and faucet and take a bath sheesh!!!

I have a picture around here somewhere entitled "old man summiting the Devil's Staircase" I should look that up. Amazing scenery. The trip up Ben Nevis is taxing but not daunting. The mountain beside it has a cable car run to the top and you can wander over and look at the top of Nevis. :D
 
Technical backpack for day trips with backpack cover and internal compartment for the hydration bladder. Ideal daypack for excursions where we need a medium capacity backpack. The back with Air Flow System creates large air channels that will keep our back as cool as possible.

€83,-
Deb
I agree the UK is very special. But I must say Scotland felt as if I were home. England is where my grandparents were from so to travel back to ones roots & see Huntingdon for us was quite interesting. Back to your trip I am always glad when other Americans travel to see how wonderfully others live. After England I must say Montana seems even more remote:)
 
@Purple Backpack You can view high-detail Ordnance Survey maps for the whole of the UK - including the WHW - on the UK version of Bing Maps: maps.bing.co.uk

To view OS maps on a mobile phone I use an Android app called Outdoors GB. There are a number of payment options but a £5 annual charge gives online access to the full database.

PS: There is another and cheaper Android app called UK Atlas. One-off payment for unlimited online OS mapping. Can be slow and fussy about which phones it will run on. Worth testing the free version before buying. No offline map storage - I usually take screenshots of my planned route in case I am out of phone coverage.

Thanks so much! I love maps...
 
It sounds like you had a great time! WHW is an excellent trail that really seems to be growing in popularity recently. A nice bonus is that it connects to some other good long-distance trails too: the Great Glen Way and the East Highland Way.

You are right that it is harder than the CF, but as far as 'wilderness' trails go it is about as easy as you can get.

Wilderness....hmmm. I live in Oregon, where we have a lot of that stuff. In fact, I have hiked a lot of wilderness. What I will say about "as easy as you can get"--with the West Highland Way--is that Loch Lommond day II kicked my ****(((^^^% and I am a very proficient and fit hiker. I found a consensus throughout the several ensuing days, among other like-minded (and bodied) souls, that that portion was -- for a more than ten-mile day--way way, and WAY more difficult than any of us had anticipated.

I would rather do The Devil's Staircase TWICE than do the Loch Lommond section again, ha ha! The Devil's Staircase, along with Conic Hill, was strenuous and (for me) just great fun. I like a hard workout!
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Do you mean curious as in peculiar or as in enquiring? I suppose it depends on how much Johnniewalker we've had!

They weren't curious in an "odd" way--they were curious in terms of "wow, why are you here, and what are you doing, and tell us all about yourselves?"

It was very welcoming and nice, and we love the Scots and Brits. Just love them!
 
Do you mean curious as in peculiar or as in enquiring? I suppose it depends on how much Johnnialker we've had!
I meant 'curious' +
Do you mean curious as in peculiar or as in enquiring? I suppose it depends on how much Johnniewalker we've had!
"Curious" as in Curious about why one would come such a long way to do this walk (I come from Australia)...and also curious about ME as a person...etc.etc. ps...There Was NO Johnnie Walker involved at any time but, maybe a Glenfiddich or two.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
After England I must say Montana seems even more remote:)

As a Scot whose only visit to the USA was a week in Montana in 1997 I would second that! Hired a car across the border in Medicine Hat and drove to Yellowstone and back. Memorable for so many things. Wide open roads with highway signs saying the speed limit was "reasonable and prudent". Waking in my tent in a forest at 2am somewhere SW of Stanford to hear a large animal (bear!!!???) pacing round the tent breathing heavily. And taking a wrong fork in the gravel forest road to end up in a dead-end clearing with a few cabins and an unfriendly "Keep Out" sign where four men walked out of the cabins as I approached, each picking up a rifle from a gun rack on the porch, and holding them across their chests very obviously while I turned around and left very quickly. A logging truck driver told me later that I'd stumbled into a survivalist militia / "Mountain Men" camp by mistake... Scotland is pretty tame in comparison :)
 
I am doing the WHW in may next year and just finished the South Downs Way which is nothing in comparison.

My next project after the Camino Primitivo will be climbing Snowdon and I can´t wait

I like going up Snowdon.... definitely quite challenging if you are going up the Watkins path.... quite a bit of scrambling! But the other paths are not as bad...
 
Some time ago--well, August 18th!--I left the USA for the UK. In brief, I asked my husband to walk the Camino with me, but he admitted that he really wanted to visit Scotland and England. In particular, he wanted to go to Patrington, England to see the home of some ancestors. He also wanted to go to the Scottish Highlands, to see the home of his Scottish clans.

I began the research, and discovered two long-distance walks: first, The John Muir Trail, which is fairly new. When I discovered the West Highland Way--one of the oldest of the Scottish long-distance walks--I knew it would be the best one for us. First, it began just north of Glasgow, in a small town called Milngavie (pronounce Mullguy), and it ended in the Highlands, near the seat of the Cameron clan--some of my husband's ancestors.

I knew that walking 96 miles through Scotland could present challenges (midges--a tiny, annoying mosquito swarm that means business) but because Jay is exceptionally fit, I did not anticipate that he would struggle with walking. Neither--neither!--of us did!

I will say about the WHW:

1. In my opinion, it is a bit more challenging than Camino Frances, because of the humidity, rain and roughness of some of the terrain. The walking around Lake Lommond was strenuous--narrow path with lots of rocks (slippery) and a few boulders to squeeze through, not to mention tree roots that you can catch your foot on.

2. It is more expensive than CF in Spain, at least for me. The food was quite good, but I adore the food in Spain so darn much.

3. The people in Scotland are wonderfully helpful and curious, as are the people I found in Spain. I also found that people from all over the world are walking the WHW.

4. For me (and your mileage may vary), it was most helpful to get a bit of help from our Camino Forum before going about how to get around London and how to find accommodations on the WHW. I used MacAdventures, which I discovered after reading someone's post about them wayyyyyy back in March. On the WHW, a lot of European younger folk were using sleeping bags and tents, and there are places to camp along the way, but with all the rain and midges, I would not want to. B and B's then were the way to go. Not as inexpensive as albergues though!

The WHW becomes amazingly beautiful in the later stages, as one walks along large mountains and hills. The greenery and the hills and mountains, and particularly Ben Nevis, are amazing. Ben Nevis, the largest mountain in the UK, is the centerpiece of the Fort William area, and we heard story after story of the climbs, the annual Ben Nevis race up and back, and in the local cemetery, several stones gave testimony to the respect that one MUST give the mountain.

Anyway, thanks to all of you, and yes--we survived navigating around the UK on SO MANY buses, trains, the tube. After several days in, we felt like old pro's, and are proof that old dogs can learn new tricks. My husband and I both returned from our first trip (in our lives) to the UK with a tremendous sense of gratitude and pleasure in how warmly we were received.

Buen Camino!

Hi, Deb
I'm on my way - at Orly Airport putting in time until my flight to Pau and bus and train to Oloron Ste Marie and off on the camino in the morning. It sounds like you and your hubby had a great time on the West Highland Way - a great chance to share a long distance walk with him. Blessings,
Mary Louise
 
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Hi, Deb
I'm on my way - at Orly Airport putting in time until my flight to Pau and bus and train to Oloron Ste Marie and off on the camino in the morning. It sounds like you and your hubby had a great time on the West Highland Way - a great chance to share a long distance walk with him. Blessings,
Mary Louise

Glad to read that you are now on your way in France! The Somport pass is great; driving through it has always been very picturesque especially during winter.
Hope that all goes well for you!
Carpe diem, Bon voyage and Buen camino!

Margaret Meredith
 
As a Scot whose only visit to the USA was a week in Montana in 1997 I would second that! Hired a car across the border in Medicine Hat and drove to Yellowstone and back. Memorable for so many things. Wide open roads with highway signs saying the speed limit was "reasonable and prudent". Waking in my tent in a forest at 2am somewhere SW of Stanford to hear a large animal (bear!!!???) pacing round the tent breathing heavily. And taking a wrong fork in the gravel forest road to end up in a dead-end clearing with a few cabins and an unfriendly "Keep Out" sign where four men walked out of the cabins as I approached, each picking up a rifle from a gun rack on the porch, and holding them across their chests very obviously while I turned around and left very quickly. A logging truck driver told me later that I'd stumbled into a survivalist militia / "Mountain Men" camp by mistake... Scotland is pretty tame in comparison :)

Wow, wow.... @Bradypus! I was ONLY referring to the physical aspect of the hike. Not that having a large bear--and it could have been a grizzly--snuffling around outside your tent isn't physical! And I thought I was struggling to put together 30 p for a whiz at the train station! Ha!

And a militia camp?? Good heavens, lad! Next time you decide to get over here to the USA, come to Oregon and I'll run you to Mount Hood for a more suitable adventure ;) Or a million other places.

Buen Camino!
 
Welcome back, Deb. Sounds like a great walk. You've given me some food for thought, as I am one of those ones who is in the "Camino in Spain" rut -- why not walk somewhere else? (but you are lucky enough to have the time to do the WHW in addition to, and not in lieu of, a Camino, so maybe that makes a difference). Anyways, thanks for the report. Back to the camino for you now?

Buen camino, Laurie
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
Next time you decide to get over here to the USA, come to Oregon and I'll run you to Mount Hood for a more suitable adventure ;)!

Thanks for the kind offer Deb! The local forest rangers had told me there were no grizzlies around and the black bears shouldn't be a problem. I was daft enough to believe them. Still here so they were probably right. I was far too scared to unzip the tent to identify the animal. Added a bit of spice to the trip though :) Really glad to leave the guys with guns behind though - that was not funny at all.
 
I like going up Snowdon.... definitely quite challenging if you are going up the Watkins path.... quite a bit of scrambling! But the other paths are not as bad...

I climbed the Snowdon in 2012 in July. There were a lot of people in a sunny day. I think that the "normal way" is not difficult. There are more mountains to climb in Snowdonia. I think that North Wales is very interesting.
 
Thanks for the kind offer Deb! The local forest rangers had told me there were no grizzlies around and the black bears shouldn't be a problem. I was daft enough to believe them. Still here so they were probably right. I was far too scared to unzip the tent to identify the animal. Added a bit of spice to the trip though :) Really glad to leave the guys with guns behind though - that was not funny at all.
I wish that would never happen to anyone, but it has become an issue. We have become a state where firearms use to be kept for hunting, to one that many pack daily. Remote areas tend to draw personalities that are off. I hope you would agree that most folk you encountered were very nice.
Keith
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Thanks for the kind offer Deb! The local forest rangers had told me there were no grizzlies around and the black bears shouldn't be a problem. I was daft enough to believe them. Still here so they were probably right. I was far too scared to unzip the tent to identify the animal. Added a bit of spice to the trip though :) Really glad to leave the guys with guns behind though - that was not funny at all.

I second Deb's answer, Bradypus ! Wow...wow!!! :eek:
It's not often I am speechless ! :D
 
I wish that would never happen to anyone, but it has become an issue. We have become a state where firearms use to be kept for hunting, to one that many pack daily. Remote areas tend to draw personalities that are off. I hope you would agree that most folk you encountered were very nice.
Keith

Absolutely - almost everyone I met was very welcoming. Lots of people commenting on my Scottish accent, many of them with Scottish ancestry. Some fascinating people too like the retired county sheriff who had built his own motel by hand. Most people very friendly and helpful. True in most places in my experience.
 
IMG_6338.jpg IMG_6462.jpg IMG_6579.jpg IMG_6585.jpg IMG_6338.jpg IMG_6462.jpg IMG_6579.jpg

A few photos from Scotland's West Highland Way! Check out the Israeli brothers in kilts. They were charming, and walking with their dad. The dad was not wearing a kilt, so I admonished him for that.

They were great fun to run into, and we photographed our friend Margaret--75 years old and tiny--posing between them.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
They were great fun to run into, and we photographed our friend Margaret--75 years old and tiny--posing between them.

Brave men: you wouldn't see me wearing a kilt on the West Highland Way in midgie season. The very thought makes me shudder :) Margaret must be really tiny - looked very hard at the photo and still can't see her between those two tough blokes...
 
Wilderness....hmmm. I live in Oregon, where we have a lot of that stuff. In fact, I have hiked a lot of wilderness. What I will say about "as easy as you can get"--with the West Highland Way--is that Loch Lommond day II kicked my ****(((^^^% and I am a very proficient and fit hiker. I found a consensus throughout the several ensuing days, among other like-minded (and bodied) souls, that that portion was -- for a more than ten-mile day--way way, and WAY more difficult than any of us had anticipated.

I would rather do The Devil's Staircase TWICE than do the Loch Lommond section again, ha ha! The Devil's Staircase, along with Conic Hill, was strenuous and (for me) just great fun. I like a hard workout!
I loved The Devil's Staircase even though the wind was blowing Gale force and the rain was coming sideways...a hard but satisfying in many ways, climb and eventual descent...susanawee
 
An addition to my post above about the Devil's Staircase.....After the West Highland Way, I spent some time travelling around, eventually ending my journey in Edinburgh, where I found the Climb up to Arthur's Seat to be Way, Way more taxing and challenging for my short legs. Was very glad to reach the top but, even gladder to go down again to the flat land below..susanawee
 
Join our full-service guided tour and let us convert you into a Pampered Pilgrim!
Some time ago--well, August 18th!--I left the USA for the UK. In brief, I asked my husband to walk the Camino with me, but he admitted that he really wanted to visit Scotland and England. In particular, he wanted to go to Patrington, England to see the home of some ancestors. He also wanted to go to the Scottish Highlands, to see the home of his Scottish clans.

I began the research, and discovered two long-distance walks: first, The John Muir Trail, which is fairly new. When I discovered the West Highland Way--one of the oldest of the Scottish long-distance walks--I knew it would be the best one for us. First, it began just north of Glasgow, in a small town called Milngavie (pronounce Mullguy), and it ended in the Highlands, near the seat of the Cameron clan--some of my husband's ancestors.

I knew that walking 96 miles through Scotland could present challenges (midges--a tiny, annoying mosquito swarm that means business) but because Jay is exceptionally fit, I did not anticipate that he would struggle with walking. Neither--neither!--of us did!

I will say about the WHW:

1. In my opinion, it is a bit more challenging than Camino Frances, because of the humidity, rain and roughness of some of the terrain. The walking around Lake Lommond was strenuous--narrow path with lots of rocks (slippery) and a few boulders to squeeze through, not to mention tree roots that you can catch your foot on.

2. It is more expensive than CF in Spain, at least for me. The food was quite good, but I adore the food in Spain so darn much.

3. The people in Scotland are wonderfully helpful and curious, as are the people I found in Spain. I also found that people from all over the world are walking the WHW.

4. For me (and your mileage may vary), it was most helpful to get a bit of help from our Camino Forum before going about how to get around London and how to find accommodations on the WHW. I used MacAdventures, which I discovered after reading someone's post about them wayyyyyy back in March. On the WHW, a lot of European younger folk were using sleeping bags and tents, and there are places to camp along the way, but with all the rain and midges, I would not want to. B and B's then were the way to go. Not as inexpensive as albergues though!

The WHW becomes amazingly beautiful in the later stages, as one walks along large mountains and hills. The greenery and the hills and mountains, and particularly Ben Nevis, are amazing. Ben Nevis, the largest mountain in the UK, is the centerpiece of the Fort William area, and we heard story after story of the climbs, the annual Ben Nevis race up and back, and in the local cemetery, several stones gave testimony to the respect that one MUST give the mountain.

Anyway, thanks to all of you, and yes--we survived navigating around the UK on SO MANY buses, trains, the tube. After several days in, we felt like old pro's, and are proof that old dogs can learn new tricks. My husband and I both returned from our first trip (in our lives) to the UK with a tremendous sense of gratitude and pleasure in how warmly we were received.

Buen Camino!
 
Enjoyed your story ver much, but Lake Lomond, come come Loch Lomond
 
Thanks for the post. It reinforces my pride to be British! For wilderness the Cape Wrath Trail runs down through remote country from the furthest northwesterly point of the UK mainland to Fort William, linking up to the WHW. It is astonishing. Wild and wicked in winter and spring but sprinkled with occasional bothies where you can rest for free and hopefully get a fire going to thaw and dry out. Most people go south to north on this trail, which has several variants, and they're all tough. I did north to south as I like to feel I'm heading home. Rose in a fisted glove. Beauty wrapped in hardness. The Eagle certainly flies along this trail but I'm afraid it eats the Dove.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Same. I hiked up Snowdon the Saturday before I flew to France for the Camino on the 14th, you might still be as to climb it if you really wanted to. :)
I am doing the WHW in may next year and just finished the South Downs Way which is nothing in comparison.

My next project after the Camino Primitivo will be climbing Snowdon and I can´t wait
 
Great to have you back Deb and many thanks for your help with info on the WHW before you left. I will be doing the Great Glen Way only in May/June. This is due to time and $ restraints. Meeting up with a life-long friend who lives in Edinburgh and we will then make some regional trips together. It is also my ancestral home. The family on both sides hail from Aberdeen, Dundee, Aberfeldy.
I have walk a number of UK long walks , including the whw twice , may is the busiest month for walkers in Scotland and books up very early, be prepared for " full up " signs .
 

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