Hello Everyone,
I am in a wonderful private albergue in Almaden. It's a private house with only two rooms and two beds in each rooms.
I am actually staying here for several days trying to recuperate and make a decision about what to do if I don't get better. The owners are letting me stay as long as I need to get better, which is good feeling because as you all know they usually don't let you stay more than one night.
I started in Seville Monday, September 19th, and it was with some reservation because I woke up Saturday morning dizzy and nauseous. I just though it was dehydration as its been quite hot and I had a pretty long day Friday, but my nausea never really went away.
I felt a little better Monday and started from the cathedral and throughout the day felt a little nauseous and just attributed it to the heat as it hit about 99 degrees (37c). I got an early start and luckily that first day is short. I stayed at the Luz Del Camino private albergue and ended up with a room by myself because there were so few people.
I had mentioned my nausea to the host, Peter, and he suggested that I stay there another day. I woke up in the morning feling fairly good and headed out.
That day went a little harder for me as I was almost out of energy by the time I reached Castilblanco.
I stayed at the municipal albergue and I was offered another few nights there if I needed it. I decided to stay and watched every head out fairly early in the morning for the long stretch with the steep uphill near the end of the day. I was laying there feeling fine and decided to head out. In retrospect I should have stayed!
I made sure I had four liters of water and some food as there is nothing between. Several pilgrims took a cab to the entrance of the national park instead of walking the road.
I didn't find the road that bad because there are very few car on it, and it is just part of the Camino. The scenery on the road is actually similar to the park, rolling hills and lots of oak trees.
It was hot and I found myself struggling a bit and stopped under the little bits of shade I found. I wasn't feeling bad by the time I reached the turnoff through the national park. The temperature was around 95 degrees (35c) and half way through the park I became nauseous to the point I felt I was going to throw up. At that point I thought of going back to the highway, but I was more that half way. I continued on and got to the bottom of the steep grade into Almaden and I just could take another step. I was exhausted! I kept drinking water but I was so nauseous that I had a hard time drinking it without thinking of throwing up.
I had not seen another person the entire time in the national park and I wasn't sure what to do? If any of you had heard, this is actually the spot where a pilgrim died a few weeks ago from heat exhaustion. But apparently he had other complications, including diabetes.
I knew it wouldn't be wise to continue on even though it was just another 3-4 kilometers, but it's steep and I literally couldn't take one more step.
I was a little desperate about what to do and my wife back home sent me a text with the Spanish emergency number, 112. I didn't know it and called. They passed me in to an English speaker as my Spanish is a little rough. The dispatcher was very professional and helpful. I told him I didn't need an ambulance but he said they generally sendvone because they never know the actual conditions until they get there.
After about twenty minutes a patrol car from the Guardian Civil showed up with two police officers. They were very friendly and happy to help, asking if I needed to go to a hospital or doctor. Having felt this way for so long I said, doctor. They took me to a doctor in Almaden, and they went in with me. Afterwards they even took me to the hostel. What service! Great guys!
The doctor said I looked in good shape, no fever, no respiratory issues, a good heart rate, and normal blood pressure. His conclusion was that I had a stomach virus or bacteria, maybe from the water I drank in Seville. He said though it is generally fine to drink, people coming from other parts of the world sometimes can't tolerate various bacteria in different water.
Interesting because I trekked the Camino Francis from SJPDP to Santiago from May 23, to June 23, this year, and drank water from everywhere and never had any issues.
I went to the farmscia and got some antibiotics and went to the hostel. I felt pretty bad today and plan on staying here until I feel better no matter how long I have to stay here before I go on.
This was a real eye opener for me as I consider myself in fairly good shape, but I made the mistake of being over confident, and that's what gets you into trouble. It's scary to think what I might have done if I could not have received cell service or not had such a good support system with emergency personnel.
One more thing! As I was telling another pilgrim about my issue, I showed him the picture I had of the two police officers standing next to me. He laughed and said it was the same two officers that had rescued him and his partner in the park too! They were the ones that took the cab that same day, and once inside the park they got lost and also called 112. Funny, but it's good to know there is good support out there.
Some of you will probably pass me here?
Have a safe and wonderful Camino,
Ted
