Invierno notes, April 2016

[MJB]

The Invierno is a quiet camino experience. Walking in April 2016, I was the only pilgrim that I or anyone in the abergues or little hotels saw up to A Laxe. The towns are small and the villages tiny. Local people are aware of the Camino passing through and friendly, but there is nothing like the constant infrastructure of albegues and bars you find on the Camino Frances.

April may be a little too early to go unless you do well with rain. It rained pretty steadily on seven of my eleven days, and prior to the merger with the Camino Sanabres many unpaved tracks are not winterized at all (i.e., no gravel, very mixed quality on shape and drainage). The weather would better starting in late May or June, although the countryside blossoming in spring was beautiful, as I had hoped.

The English-language guidebook edited by Peregina2000/Laurie Reynoldsavailable on this site is very helpful. I found the Valdeorras association Spanish-language guidebook helpful too. (Their site is http://caminodeinvierno.es/) A third edition of the guidebook is in the works.

I think downloading GPS tracks makes a lot of sense for this camino. There isn’t anyone to ask questions most of the time! Having a GPS track is also very helpful for when the weather is bad and one wants to work around badly flooded or mucked up sections. A file from Wikiloc loaded onto Gaia GPS on my iPhone worked well.

For those whose pilgrimage is religious, Ponferrada, O Barco, A Rua, Monforte, Chantada, and Silleda all have evening masses at 7:30 or 8:00 pm.

I would like to return and go slower someday. An extra day or two in Ponferrada, O Barco, Monforte or Lalin would be rewarding.

More specific route notes follow in my next posting.

 

[MJB]

Town by town notes on the Camino de Invierno, April 2016

Ponferrada

The Albergue Guiana was great. Open till midngiht. It was nice to have time for both Mass and dinner before going back to the albergue.

Villavieja

The paved road and the path through the chestnut trees both go to the entrance of the Catillo de Cornatel. The Castle is open Friday-Sunday, 11:00-2:30, 4:00-9:00, starting in March. Pilgrims walking their first day out on a day the Castle is closed may want to take the very short road detour instead of the full climb to Villavieja and the Castle to save time to visit the Orellan lookout or otherwise explore Las Medulas.

Borrenes

The store has definitely gone out of business. Casa Marisol made me a crude but ample bocadillo de chorizo and a cafe solo for 3.60 euros.

Las Medulas

The hotel was closed for the season. Socorro who rents rooms found me as I walked around town, so I stayed with her. A nice clean room and friendly breakfast for 20 euros, although I could not make the connection to her wifi.

The descent through the forest to Puente de Domingo Flores was very beautiful: spring flowers, inspiring views in every direction.

Puente de Domingo Flórez

The left turn to leave town is at the Dia supermarket.

O Barco

...is a beautiful town. It’s hard to believe it has only 10,000 people. It would be shame to skip it to rack up kms. I had a good stay at the Hostal Mayo (22 euro single), and a very good dinner across the river (first pedestrian bridge) at the Asador Viloira.

The plethora of alternatives for leaving town are a little confusing. I just walked out the main street (one block towards the river below my hotel and the Pension do Lar), the Av. Conde Fenosa (aka N-536).

A Rua

I had a great lunch (a one choice menu, but delicious) at the Meson O Toño (center of town near the Bar Pepa and Eroski supermarket.

It was a treat to meet Asun, who is head of the Asociación Amigos do Camiño de Santiago por Valdeorras. As the English-language guide notes, she is a pleasure to talk to and full of information.

Leaving town, if you come to the Maderas La Cigara lumber yard, you have gone 150m beyond the spot to cut underneath the highway and will need to double back. Or better still, once you see Maderas La Cigara on the horizon, be on the lookout for the turn and tunnel.

Alvaredos

In the rain it may be easiest to stay on the LU-933 rather than climbing to the village. I got utterly soaked on the pretty, but overgrown, grassy path out of the village, and it was a long, mushy walk thereafter. (I did get to see a surgically clean, modern winery being built on the first floor of one of the big, beautiful houses in Alvaredos. It is striking how development and decrepitude can sit side-by-side in rural villages in Galicia.)

Montefurado

The church was open on Saturday for preparing the altar for mass and there is still a Sunday mass. It was a surprise as it looked decrepit as I climbed up the hill.

The waymarked and placarded (Camino Sur) path out of Montefurado is badly, badly overgrown with foot-high grasses and wild flowers. I was really soaked after that. I think by going right after the church rather than going left and following the marked trail, you could reach the paved road to Hermidón.

Bendilló-Quiroga

To avoid the fussiness I spent about 200m along the highway to enter Sequeiros directly. I stayed on the LU-933 until just before the Castle (It’s an easy crossing of the N-120.) and then went straight downhill toward Quiroga rather than doing the (very wet!) loop back across the creek. This must have been the route at some time, because there are arrows into town. There are several big ruina montium boreholes (placarded) on the right as you head toward Quiroga.

Quiroga

The Quiroga Albergue folks were very helpful: they showed me to the laundry and the boiler room they use in lieu of a dryer, so I was able to wash and dry my clothes, and more importantly to dry my shoes.

I had an excellent dinner (fabada and homemade paella) at the bar A Taverna, and lovely, fresh pastries for breakfast from the Panaderia Marisa, opposite the albergue, which opens at 8:00 am.

Quiroga-Barxa de Lor

Although it rained a lot both this day and the previous one, the logging roads through the high hills were all well maintained and not hard to pass through.

A small correction to the English-anguage guide: the crossing of the N-120 to the derelict nightclub before Noceda is at grade, not under the highway.

A Pobra to Monforte

After a Pobra, the asphalt runs out and the the track was frequently muddy and flooded. I was afraid of getting bogged down in the mud as it got darker and doubled back to take the two-lane, pretty much uninhabited LU provincial road toward Cereixa. When it ended, instead of going right to A Cereixa,I took a left and walked for about 800m on the Avenida de Lugo and then met the LU-933 which I took into Monforte. I got there by 8:30 pm.

Monforte

I’ve been to Monforte a couple times before on my bike, and enjoyed eating at the Parador and O Grello on those trips. This time I had an equally good meal at the Restaurant Polar, right in the center of town. (About 22 euros. Every course was good, as were the baked goods for breakfast the next morning. It looks like a typical Spanish bar with a comedor, but the quality was very high.

I overslept and decided to stay for the 11:00 am mass at the chapel of the Colegio de los Escolapios. (I’ve never been able to make the tours.) A good experience, followed by shopping at the Sunday farmers market and flea market in the park next door.

Sadly, the bar as you leave town has given up the ghost.

Castrotañe-A Barxa

Staying on the LU-P-4112 was an absolute must in rainy April. (The Camino into Castrontañe is an overgrown streambed and was in full-flood.)

San Pelayo

The work on the episcopal palace attached to the Church of San Pelayo in Diamondi is now finished. The church was more than worth the short detour.

After the short concrete stretch, the next 500m of the Codos de Belesar are pure muck in spring rain. The Roman road section is better, but a little slippery in the rain.

Chantada

I arrived at 9:30 pm, but had good (and huge) dinner at the Bar Lucas and a good sleep at the Hotel Mogay.

Chantada-Rodeiro

There are a series of beautiful horreos as you leave Centulle.

Unfortunately, in April the “service road” after Centulle has several long stretches of pure mud pit and flooded roadway. The carretera is a real closed access road, 5-15 meters below the camino and beyond a fence, so it’s not really an alternative. Hopping onto fences and waterlogged fields was not much better. (I got hooked on barbed wire for the first time since my first Camino in 2004.) 50 or so cows on the road and more rain compounded the problems.

At Penasillás, I changed shoes and detoured by the alternative route laid out in the Valdeorras Amigos guidebook. Pretty, quiet, dry. Good views, although it sounds like not as good as on the direct climb. This route rises to about 775 m, descends and then ascends further to 890 meters at the Alto de Faro.

Rodeiro

I had good meal and a perfectly clean, perfectly heated room (so I could dry some critical laundry) at the restaurant and Hospedaxe O Guerra.

Rodeiro-Lalin

It poured rain the whole time, and based on fatigue and the recommendation of the restaurant owner in Rondeiro I walked the carretera service road. One of the bars on the way specializes in making honey, which made a nice change from the usual cafe stop.

I got lost trying to find the church in Lalín de Arriba and so made my way into town five or ten blocks off course. I had a nice lunch of callos and pulpo á feira at Restaurant San Martin II (opposite the Sergas clinic) and a nice pastry at a bakery-bar called Dulces Encantados (diagonally across the street from the pig monument, just below the main church).

Joining the Sanabres

From Silleda on (specifically from one block after the Nudesa plant) all the dirt roads are all reinforced with gravel and can stand up to wet weather. There were also some pilgrims about.

In Silleda I stayed in the Bar Toxa’s apartment: clean, modern, 15 euros.

The weather cleared the next day and I had the sort of day I had hoped for all along.

The Pasteleria Dulce Deza as you enter Bandeira is a good morning stop for coffee and a pastry for those who are leaving Lalin or Silleda.

Ponte Ulla

I tried the fancy Restaurant Villa Verde in Ponte Ulla. A beautiful first course of home-smoked salmon over fresh tomatoes. Second course was Roballo a Gallega. The dessert was an interesting walnut and banana torta (Torta de Nueces y Platanos.) About 42 euros with coffee and a couple of glasses of local Albariño.

For climbing to the Pensión O Cruzeiro da Ulla, note that it is up the long stairway that lies between the Camino (steep, rocky walk) and the local highway where the Dia supermarket is. The long stairway climbs up to the N-525. The pension was newish, clean and only 20 euros for a single.

 

[peregrina2000]

Corrections have been duly noted. Great additions, too.

So, who's next? I keep thinking that this year will be the one that starts things really moving!

 

[annakappa]

Who's next? Maybe us....still can't make a commitment, but it might be possible after mid September.
Thanks MJB for all your notes. Pity for you all that rain and mud! Sounds like you enjoyed your food!!!

 

[Charrito]

Many thanks to MJB for the details.

In reply to peregrina2000's post, I will definitely be on the Invierno again from the beginning of June. However, I sincerely hope - from a purely selfish point of view - that the route does not 'take off' just yet!

When I say 'selfish' I'm just referring to the splendid solitude that I encountered on the Invierno last year. Nobody else was on the route the first day. I met two pilgrims from Valencia on the second day in Sobradelo; three guys from Córdoba were in Asun's alberge in A Rúa. I saw one girl walking past me (I have having a relaxing beer by the Roman Bridge) in Monforte de Lemos; apart from that, nobody else, until I left Lalín and joined up with the Sanabrés around A Laxe.

Like MJB, I'm a bit of a 'foodie', and like to sample the delights of the local gastronomy. The normal menú del día that you will find here is infinitely better than a lot of the bland repetitive stuff that you'll find on the Camino Francés, I guarantee.

I will do my best to add more information to Laurie's marvellously written guide, having collaborated with some thoughts earlier this year.

Buen camino to all of you! I hope to see some of you somewhere along the route!

 

[peregrina2000]

I know what you mean, Charrito, but it would be fun to see a little more traffic, don't you think? In my two Caminos de Invierno, I have met a total of one other pilgrim (though for a few days I was walking with Reb so I was definitely in good company). There was one bus load of 50 or so, and they were great fun for the three hours I was with them.

Maybe the Camino is another example of the fact that you can't be a little pregnant. Seems that it may be a choice between no pilgrims or hoards of pilgrims. Time will tell on the Invierno, but a little bit more pilgrim infrastructure would be the icing on the cake -- now that the Xunta recognizes the Invierno and is putting some money into it, I hope they stop building concrete benches and start adding albergues. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

Laurie:

That's why I said - slightly tongue in cheek - 'from a purely selfish point of view'!

I really hope that the Invierno take off over the next couple of years. It is the most beautiful route for all those of you who still have any doubts.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I really hope that the Invierno take off over the next couple of years.

In January the tourist office in Ponferrada told me that the Camino Invierno is "closed" in the winter, probably meaning that the albergues are closed. They had a nice brochure and two books about it. The Winter Camino is probably great in the spring/summer/fall.

 

[Charrito]

In January the tourist office in Ponferrada told me that the Camino Invierno is "closed" in the winter, probably meaning that the albergues are closed. They had a nice brochure and two books about it. The Winter Camino is probably great in the spring/summer/fall.

No way is it 'closed' in winter.

 

[gollygolly]

Many, many thanks MJB for this wonderfully detailed and helpful post; if you do not mind, I have a couple of questions as I begin planning for my own experience along this Camino, commencing in about a months time.

In Las Medulas I have not found any details for where to stay 'privately', as you did with Socorro. Did you see quite a few opportunities to stay privately or do you have contact details for Socorro ?

And in Rodeiro, there are several recommendations elsewhere on this forum for Pension Carpinteiras, and just wondered if there was a specific reason that you chose to stay at Hospedaxe O Guerra.

Once again, muchas gracias !

 

[peregrina2000]

Many, many thanks MJB for this wonderfully detailed and helpful post; if you do not mind, I have a couple of questions as I begin planning for my own experience along this Camino, commencing in about a months time.

In Las Medulas I have not found any details for where to stay 'privately', as you did with Socorro. Did you see quite a few opportunities to stay privately or do you have contact details for Socorro ?

And in Rodeiro, there are several recommendations elsewhere on this forum for Pension Carpinteiras, and just wondered if there was a specific reason that you chose to stay at Hospedaxe O Guerra.

Once again, muchas gracias !

Hi, gollygolly, the forum guide in the Resources section has details with walking directions and phone numbers for Socorro. There are also a couple of hotels (at least in summer) and the guide has those details as well.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...e-to-the-camino-de-invierno-2016-edition.442/

I've stayed twice at O Guerra in Rodeiro. It's centrally located and the couple running it are very nice. Their restaurant is decent, too. Carpinteiras is a bit out of the way, nothing major, just about 500 m up the street. I think either one is fine.

Hope you enjoy the Invierno, let us know how it goes. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Charrito]

Many, many thanks MJB for this wonderfully detailed and helpful post; if you do not mind, I have a couple of questions as I begin planning for my own experience along this Camino, commencing in about a months time.

In Las Medulas I have not found any details for where to stay 'privately', as you did with Socorro. Did you see quite a few opportunities to stay privately or do you have contact details for Socorro ?

And in Rodeiro, there are several recommendations elsewhere on this forum for Pension Carpinteiras, and just wondered if there was a specific reason that you chose to stay at Hospedaxe O Guerra.

Once again, muchas gracias !

Casa Socorro: 987 422 858

Both places in Rodeiro are excellent. One is at the top of the hill, though!

 

[gollygolly]

Hi, gollygolly, the forum guide in the Resources section has details with walking directions and phone numbers for Socorro. There are also a couple of hotels (at least in summer) and the guide has those details as well.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...e-to-the-camino-de-invierno-2016-edition.442/

I've stayed twice at O Guerra in Rodeiro. It's centrally located and the couple running it are very nice. Their restaurant is decent, too. Carpinteiras is a bit out of the way, nothing major, just about 500 m up the street. I think either one is fine.

Hope you enjoy the Invierno, let us know how it goes. Buen camino, Laurie

Thank so much for your extraordinarily prompt reply ! I know that I will now be choosing the O Guerra in Rodeiro !!

 

[gollygolly]

Casa Socorro: 987 422 858

Both places in Rodeiro are excellent. One is at the top of the hill, though!

Bless you for posting the contact number for Socorro - I had just looked it up following reading the post from Laurie - and so appreciate your effort and time. Am feeling my excitement increasing at this upcoming Camino, which seems to have a wonderfully distinct 'feel' from what I have read !!

 

[sabbott]

Thanks for this updated information! I am currently on the Frances in Sahagun, and have been planning on turning left at Ponferrada and getting on the Invierno. I have Laurie's excellent pdf and the Wise Pilgrim app for the Invierno. I don't mind walking alone and understand that this route isn't as well marked as the France's--but I don't have a GPS on my phone and after reading this post am a bit concerned that I'll be lost frequently in the middle of nowhere! Any thoughts on whether I'll be well enough equipped to figure out my route with just the available signage and PDF? Thanks, Susan

 

[Charrito]

Bless you for posting the contact number for Socorro - I had just looked it up following reading the post from Laurie - and so appreciate your effort and time. Am feeling my excitement increasing at this upcoming Camino, which seems to have a wonderfully distinct 'feel' from what I have read !!

As others have said on here, you really will enjoy the Invierno.

I might bump into you up there!

 

[KinkyOne]

Thanks for this updated information! I am currently on the Frances in Sahagun, and have been planning on turning left at Ponferrada and getting on the Invierno. I have Laurie's excellent pdf and the Wise Pilgrim app for the Invierno. I don't mind walking alone and understand that this route isn't as well marked as the France's--but I don't have a GPS on my phone and after reading this post am a bit concerned that I'll be lost frequently in the middle of nowhere! Any thoughts on whether I'll be well enough equipped to figure out my route with just the available signage and PDF? Thanks, Susan

Hi, Susan!

Invierno isn't badly marked at all just less than Frances. I contributed in forum's guide book and went through it three times. It's all you need. You'll be fine

 

[KinkyOne]

Bless you for posting the contact number for Socorro - I had just looked it up following reading the post from Laurie - and so appreciate your effort and time. Am feeling my excitement increasing at this upcoming Camino, which seems to have a wonderfully distinct 'feel' from what I have read !!

The ascent to Carpinteiras in Rodeiro isn't steep at all. It's just a street with a bit of incline But O Guerra is closer as you enter the town and is really centrally located. Without a nice evening view in direction of Santiago though.
You can find Soccoro's house easily. When entering Las Medulas just proceed on the main street and you'll come to a small open plaza with old lavadero (place where women washed laundry) on your right. Turn left into the street that goes just a little bit uphill and take first street to the right. At that point the first house (actually corner house with courtyard doors) to your left is Soccoro's. If you won't find Soccoro she will find you, believe me

Ultreia!

 

[Charrito]

Hi, Susan!

Invierno isn't badly marked at all just less than Frances. I contributed in forum's guide book and went through it three times. It's all you need. You'll be fine

The route is extremely well marked, especially once you cross into Galicia over the bridge from Puente de Domingo Flórez. The asociación have been round putting up lots of fantastic granite markers.

 

[sabbott]

Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.

I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.

One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!

 

[peregrina2000]

Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.

I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.

One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!

Unless there are festivals coming up, there should be absolutely no problem with lodging. You should call Asun the day before if you are going to stay in her home in A Rua, just to give her a heads up.

Last year I had a GPS with me because I had walked for many days alone on the Cami St. Jaume, but I put it away and didn't bother on the Invierno, the marking is very good.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.

I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.

One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!

Laurie said it all about accommodation.
Yes I was reffering to .pdf file in resources section.

Please give my regards to Asun (if you'll stay there), just mention Slovenian peregrino from 2014 with bedbugs (chinches), she'll understand

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie said it all about accommodation.
Yes I was reffering to .pdf file in resources section.

Please give my regards to Asun (if you'll stay there), just mention Slovenian peregrino from 2014 with bedbugs (chinches), she'll understand

Ok great, thanks! I'm very excited about going this route, good to hear no worries on the route marking and that I don't need a GPS. @KinkyOne, by "Forum's Guidebook you mean the PDF, correct? Just want to make sure I have all the info that's out there.

I'll report back in after I finish June 15th.

One other question--would I need to book ahead on lodging as I'm walking, or would just winging it be ok?
Thanks as always!

Sabbott, you will soon learn that Kinky is somewhat of a rock star along the Invierno. When you tell people you know him, faces light up (maybe it's the memory of those long beer-fueled conversations I heard about).

 

[KinkyOne]

Sabbott, you will soon learn that Kinky is somewhat of a rock star along the Invierno. When you tell people you know him, faces light up (maybe it's the memory of those long beer-fueled conversations I heard about).

Oh, come on, Laurie, now you blew my cover.

 

[Charrito]

Oh, come on, Laurie, now you blew my cover.

It's perfectly true what Laurie says! I mentioned KinkyOne in places as far apart as Sobradelo, A Rúa, A Pobra do Brollón, and they ALL recalled him!

 

[Julio Santiago]

Town by town notes on the Camino de Invierno, April 2016

Ponferrada

The Albergue Guiana was great. Open till midngiht. It was nice to have time for both Mass and dinner before going back to the albergue.

Villavieja

The paved road and the path through the chestnut trees both go to the entrance of the Catillo de Cornatel. The Castle is open Friday-Sunday, 11:00-2:30, 4:00-9:00, starting in March. Pilgrims walking their first day out on a day the Castle is closed may want to take the very short road detour instead of the full climb to Villavieja and the Castle to save time to visit the Orellan lookout or otherwise explore Las Medulas.

Borrenes

The store has definitely gone out of business. Casa Marisol made me a crude but ample bocadillo de chorizo and a cafe solo for 3.60 euros.

Las Medulas

The hotel was closed for the season. Socorro who rents rooms found me as I walked around town, so I stayed with her. A nice clean room and friendly breakfast for 20 euros, although I could not make the connection to her wifi.

The descent through the forest to Puente de Domingo Flores was very beautiful: spring flowers, inspiring views in every direction.

Puente de Domingo Flórez

The left turn to leave town is at the Dia supermarket.

O Barco

...is a beautiful town. It’s hard to believe it has only 10,000 people. It would be shame to skip it to rack up kms. I had a good stay at the Hostal Mayo (22 euro single), and a very good dinner across the river (first pedestrian bridge) at the Asador Viloira.

The plethora of alternatives for leaving town are a little confusing. I just walked out the main street (one block towards the river below my hotel and the Pension do Lar), the Av. Conde Fenosa (aka N-536).

A Rua

I had a great lunch (a one choice menu, but delicious) at the Meson O Toño (center of town near the Bar Pepa and Eroski supermarket.

It was a treat to meet Asun, who is head of the Asociación Amigos do Camiño de Santiago por Valdeorras. As the English-language guide notes, she is a pleasure to talk to and full of information.

Leaving town, if you come to the Maderas La Cigara lumber yard, you have gone 150m beyond the spot to cut underneath the highway and will need to double back. Or better still, once you see Maderas La Cigara on the horizon, be on the lookout for the turn and tunnel.

Alvaredos

In the rain it may be easiest to stay on the LU-933 rather than climbing to the village. I got utterly soaked on the pretty, but overgrown, grassy path out of the village, and it was a long, mushy walk thereafter. (I did get to see a surgically clean, modern winery being built on the first floor of one of the big, beautiful houses in Alvaredos. It is striking how development and decrepitude can sit side-by-side in rural villages in Galicia.)

Montefurado

The church was open on Saturday for preparing the altar for mass and there is still a Sunday mass. It was a surprise as it looked decrepit as I climbed up the hill.

The waymarked and placarded (Camino Sur) path out of Montefurado is badly, badly overgrown with foot-high grasses and wild flowers. I was really soaked after that. I think by going right after the church rather than going left and following the marked trail, you could reach the paved road to Hermidón.

Bendilló-Quiroga

To avoid the fussiness I spent about 200m along the highway to enter Sequeiros directly. I stayed on the LU-933 until just before the Castle (It’s an easy crossing of the N-120.) and then went straight downhill toward Quiroga rather than doing the (very wet!) loop back across the creek. This must have been the route at some time, because there are arrows into town. There are several big ruina montium boreholes (placarded) on the right as you head toward Quiroga.

Quiroga

The Quiroga Albergue folks were very helpful: they showed me to the laundry and the boiler room they use in lieu of a dryer, so I was able to wash and dry my clothes, and more importantly to dry my shoes.

I had an excellent dinner (fabada and homemade paella) at the bar A Taverna, and lovely, fresh pastries for breakfast from the Panaderia Marisa, opposite the albergue, which opens at 8:00 am.

Quiroga-Barxa de Lor

Although it rained a lot both this day and the previous one, the logging roads through the high hills were all well maintained and not hard to pass through.

A small correction to the English-anguage guide: the crossing of the N-120 to the derelict nightclub before Noceda is at grade, not under the highway.

A Pobra to Monforte

After a Pobra, the asphalt runs out and the the track was frequently muddy and flooded. I was afraid of getting bogged down in the mud as it got darker and doubled back to take the two-lane, pretty much uninhabited LU provincial road toward Cereixa. When it ended, instead of going right to A Cereixa,I took a left and walked for about 800m on the Avenida de Lugo and then met the LU-933 which I took into Monforte. I got there by 8:30 pm.

Monforte

I’ve been to Monforte a couple times before on my bike, and enjoyed eating at the Parador and O Grello on those trips. This time I had an equally good meal at the Restaurant Polar, right in the center of town. (About 22 euros. Every course was good, as were the baked goods for breakfast the next morning. It looks like a typical Spanish bar with a comedor, but the quality was very high.

I overslept and decided to stay for the 11:00 am mass at the chapel of the Colegio de los Escolapios. (I’ve never been able to make the tours.) A good experience, followed by shopping at the Sunday farmers market and flea market in the park next door.

Sadly, the bar as you leave town has given up the ghost.

Castrotañe-A Barxa

Staying on the LU-P-4112 was an absolute must in rainy April. (The Camino into Castrontañe is an overgrown streambed and was in full-flood.)

San Pelayo

The work on the episcopal palace attached to the Church of San Pelayo in Diamondi is now finished. The church was more than worth the short detour.

After the short concrete stretch, the next 500m of the Codos de Belesar are pure muck in spring rain. The Roman road section is better, but a little slippery in the rain.

Chantada

I arrived at 9:30 pm, but had good (and huge) dinner at the Bar Lucas and a good sleep at the Hotel Mogay.

Chantada-Rodeiro

There are a series of beautiful horreos as you leave Centulle.

Unfortunately, in April the “service road” after Centulle has several long stretches of pure mud pit and flooded roadway. The carretera is a real closed access road, 5-15 meters below the camino and beyond a fence, so it’s not really an alternative. Hopping onto fences and waterlogged fields was not much better. (I got hooked on barbed wire for the first time since my first Camino in 2004.) 50 or so cows on the road and more rain compounded the problems.

At Penasillás, I changed shoes and detoured by the alternative route laid out in the Valdeorras Amigos guidebook. Pretty, quiet, dry. Good views, although it sounds like not as good as on the direct climb. This route rises to about 775 m, descends and then ascends further to 890 meters at the Alto de Faro.

Rodeiro

I had good meal and a perfectly clean, perfectly heated room (so I could dry some critical laundry) at the restaurant and Hospedaxe O Guerra.

Rodeiro-Lalin

It poured rain the whole time, and based on fatigue and the recommendation of the restaurant owner in Rondeiro I walked the carretera service road. One of the bars on the way specializes in making honey, which made a nice change from the usual cafe stop.

I got lost trying to find the church in Lalín de Arriba and so made my way into town five or ten blocks off course. I had a nice lunch of callos and pulpo á feira at Restaurant San Martin II (opposite the Sergas clinic) and a nice pastry at a bakery-bar called Dulces Encantados (diagonally across the street from the pig monument, just below the main church).

Joining the Sanabres

From Silleda on (specifically from one block after the Nudesa plant) all the dirt roads are all reinforced with gravel and can stand up to wet weather. There were also some pilgrims about.

In Silleda I stayed in the Bar Toxa’s apartment: clean, modern, 15 euros.

The weather cleared the next day and I had the sort of day I had hoped for all along.

The Pasteleria Dulce Deza as you enter Bandeira is a good morning stop for coffee and a pastry for those who are leaving Lalin or Silleda.

Ponte Ulla

I tried the fancy Restaurant Villa Verde in Ponte Ulla. A beautiful first course of home-smoked salmon over fresh tomatoes. Second course was Roballo a Gallega. The dessert was an interesting walnut and banana torta (Torta de Nueces y Platanos.) About 42 euros with coffee and a couple of glasses of local Albariño.

For climbing to the Pensión O Cruzeiro da Ulla, note that it is up the long stairway that lies between the Camino (steep, rocky walk) and the local highway where the Dia supermarket is. The long stairway climbs up to the N-525. The pension was newish, clean and only 20 euros for a single.

Thank you Amigo del Camino, I will use your side notes, I should be walking this last part of my overall Camino 2016 last week of June/early July 2016; Every single note helps..
Julio

 

[Julio Santiago]

Corrections have been duly noted. Great additions, too.

So, who's next? I keep thinking that this year will be the one that starts things really moving!

Should be part of next batch!

 

[KinkyOne]

Thank you Amigo del Camino, I will use your side notes, I should be walking this last part of my overall Camino 2016 last week of June/early July 2016; Every single note helps..
Julio

Hola, Julio!

Remember we talked for a while a few kilometers before Chinchilla de M.A. last year on the Levante? I was sitting under the tree...
What are your approx.dates arriving in SdC (or Fisterra/Muxia) this year? I'm doing Bayona/CF/Salvador/Primitivo/Finisterre combo, starting on Wednesday.

Anyway, Ultreia!

 

[gollygolly]

Stay in Lalin - or go on to the Albuergue in A Laxe ??

Would really appreciate some guidance here ! A couple of years ago, when walking the Camino Sanabrés, we stayed at the Albergue in A Laxe. Apart from there being some distance from the albergue and services, there was a really serious problem with particularly viscous mosquitoes which plagued us all night.

First question is, does the Albergue in A Laxe still have this challenge with mosquitoes ?

And the second question is whether Lalin, which is just a few kms before the joining of the Camino Sanabrés and the Camino Invierno, worth seeing and therefore worth an overnight stay ?

 

[Julio Santiago]

Hola, Julio!

Remember we talked for a while a few kilometers before Chinchilla de M.A. last year on the Levante? I was sitting under the tree...
What are your approx.dates arriving in SdC (or Fisterra/Muxia) this year? I'm doing Bayona/CF/Salvador/Primitivo/Finisterre combo, starting on Wednesday.

Anyway, Ultreia!

Hello Amigo del Camino, yes I remember this short conversation under the tree on my path to Chinchilla, where I totally messed up! Should have red the guide...
I have met a handful of Peregrinos during my Levante, so impossible to forget each and every one of them...
You will really enjoy your upcoming Bayona/Frances/Salvador/Primitivo. I did it during 19 days in 2014, starting from Vitoria. It is an extremely personal Camino. If you can, in the Primitivo choose the Hospitales variant, I opted for this option (this was on my 2014-07-02 Etapa Tineo - Berducedo), you will really feel like a middle age Pilgrim.
This year I should reach Santiago practically for my return flight on the 5 July 2016, I have 1150 km to walk in 30 days maximum...
All the best
Julio Santiago (my real name, not a nick for this Santiago forum!)

 

[Charrito]

Lalín is a good place to stay.

There's a lovely river walk if you start from there.

 

[gollygolly]

Lalín is a good place to stay.

There's a lovely river walk if you start from there.

Thansk once again Charrito.

Our actual start will be from the Ctahedral in Ponferrada, and I'm contemplating what this specific days stage could be ; Rodeiro to Lalin or Rodeiro to the Albergue A Laxe or Rodeiro to a few kms beyond.

 

[KinkyOne]

I did it during 19 days in 2014, starting from Vitoria. It is an extremely personal Camino. If you can, in the Primitivo choose the Hospitales variant, I opted for this option (this was on my 2014-07-02 Etapa Tineo - Berducedo), you will really feel like a middle age Pilgrim.
This year I should reach Santiago practically for my return flight on the 5 July 2016, I have 1150 km to walk in 30 days maximum...
All the best
Julio Santiago (my real name, not a nick for this Santiago forum!)

Wow, 19 days??? Waaay too fast for me

I'll keep in mind that you're coming to/leaving from Santiago on that date. Maybe we can meet once again. And Laurie should be in SdC also at about that day.

Buen Camino!

 

[Charrito]

Thansk once again Charrito.

Our actual start will be from the Ctahedral in Ponferrada, and I'm contemplating what this specific days stage could be ; Rodeiro to Lalin or Rodeiro to the Albergue A Laxe or Rodeiro to a few kms beyond.

The Hotel El Palacio in Lalín is pilgrim-friendly, very central, and reasonably priced. Last year I stayed in the Hostal Las Palmeras: nice bar and restaurant, but the rooms are somewhat run-down and basic.

As I said, from Lalín it's a lovely three kilometre or so walk along the paseo fluvial (river walk), then a boring stretch through the industrial estate and under the motorway before you get to the albergue in A Laxe.

I will definitely stay in Lalín again in a few weeks' time.

 

[Charrito]

Two photos of the river walk from Lalín:

 

[peregrina2000]

The father of the former mayor of Lalin (upset in the last municipal elections after 25 years of PP rule in Lalin) lives in Rodeiro. The family is good friends with the owners of the A Guerra, and the owner called the dad to come talk to me when I was in their restaurant eating alone at night on my first Invierno. The father loves the camino and had made a point of transmitting that love to his son. Lalin was pretty pilgrim-friendly, IMO. Hopefully the new mayor will carry on the tradition.

On my walks on the Invierno, I have stayed once in Lalin and once in A Laxe and would choose Lalin even though there's no Albergue. The obvious advantages of A Laxe are its albergue (though I have always thought it has some cleanliness issues) and the fact that it's where you merge with the Sanabres so you may actually find some more pilgrims! Lalin is a bigger place with more to do -- there was a nice market there last year when I went through, and since it was on a weekend in June there were lots of First Communions, which makes for nice people watching. I second Charrito's recommendation of Hotel El Palacio. Here's what the forum guide says about it:

Hotel Restaurante el Palacio. Very close to the Camino. From the church walk down to the second cross street, Calle Matématico Rodriguez, 10, turn right. The hotel is on that first block. It’s a 2**, very clean and comfortable. Pilgrim deal of 35 € for room, a main meal, and breakfast. Early breakfasts not a problem (I had mine at 6:30 and could have had it earlier; just check with hotel staff). Tel. 987 780 000

 

[Charrito]

As Laurie (peregrina200) says, it may come as a bit of a shock to the system when you get to A Laxe and suddenly see more pilgrims (as the Sanabrés joins up there) after quite a few days on your own!

Lalín is also good for you foodies! Try the cocido gallego (always available in Casa Mouriño, on the other side of the road from Hotel El Palacio). Not if you're planning on walking anywhere afterwards, though!

 

[gollygolly]

Hi Laurie and Charrito

Your posts have been very helpful in guiding me to choose Lalín, and will aim for the overnight at the Hotel el Palacio with a walk across the road to eat for the evening replenishing of the personal fuel tank.

Many thanks to both of you - so very appreciate your effort and time.

 

[KinkyOne]

As Laurie (peregrina200) says, it may come as a bit of a shock to the system when you get to A Laxe and suddenly see more pilgrims (as the Sanabrés joins up there) after quite a few days on your own!

Lalín is also good for you foodies! Try the cocido gallego (always available in Casa Mouriño, on the other side of the road from Hotel El Palacio). Not if you're planning on walking anywhere afterwards, though!

Come on, Charrito..., two hours left to my shuttle transport to Venice, hungry like a wolf and you're posting this. That's not fair!

 

[MJB]

And the second question is whether Lalin, which is just a few kms before the joining of the Camino Sanabrés and the Camino Invierno, worth seeing and therefore worth an overnight stay ?

If my schedule were not tight I would have stayed to visit the ethnographic museum. The architecture is not exciting (If you look at the CRTVG webcam you will get a feeling for its appearance: mostly built up in the last 40 years.), but it's a big town with a variety of restaurants and bars. The riverwalk is a nice, parklike transition out of town.

If you walk further, I think Silleda is a more interesting place to stop than A Laxe. The modern exterior of the Xunta albergue in A Laxe is striking, but there is little nearby. Silleda has a range of places to stay (albergues through a spa), drink and eat.

 

[peregrina2000]

If my schedule were not tight I would have stayed to visit the ethnographic museum. The architecture is not exciting (If you look at the CRTVG webcam you will get a feeling for its appearance: mostly built up in the last 40 years.), but it's a big town with a variety of restaurants and bars. The riverwalk is a nice, parklike transition out of town.

If you walk further, I think Silleda is a more interesting place to stop than A Laxe. The modern exterior of the Xunta albergue in A Laxe is striking, but there is little nearby. Silleda has a range of places to stay (albergues through a spa), drink and eat.

Since we're migrating over to the Sanabres, I think a great place to stay during those last few days after the Invierno ends would be Casa Leiras. It's owned by an Italian couple with a Camino history,and it it in a little hamlet that is peaceful and beautiful. It's a little after Bandeira and I wish I had known about it the last time I walked through (but I had stayed in Bandeira, about 5 kms earlier). Last year when I walked the Invierno, I walked with a couple of local women out for their morning walk for a few kms, and they told me about how great this place was (they always stopped there for a coffee in the middle of their walk). http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-casa-leiras-1866

 

[gollygolly]

Many thanks for the recommendation of Casa Leiras. Some more details of this albergue can be seen here :

http://www.gronze.com/galicia/pontevedra/dornelas/albergue-casa-leiras-1866

though will decide closer to the time whether we stop at Casa Leiras or continue along and up to the albergue at Outeiro. From the walk that we did in 2014, I remember stocking up with food at the Dia supermarket Ponte Ulla and rushing the last few kms to get to the albergue so as to get the ice-cream into the fridge. Arrived at the albergue and discovered that it had no fridge, nor very much in the way of anything for those who wanted to prepare their own food for eating.

 

[Charrito]

Since we're migrating over to the Sanabres, I think a great place to stay during those last few days after the Invierno ends would be Casa Leiras. It's owned by an Italian couple with a Camino history,and it it in a little hamlet that is peaceful and beautiful. It's a little after Bandeira and I wish I had known about it the last time I walked through (but I had stayed in Bandeira, about 5 kms earlier). Last year when I walked the Invierno, I walked with a couple of local women out for their morning walk for a few kms, and they told me about how great this place was (they always stopped there for a coffee in the middle of their walk). http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/albergue-casa-leiras-1866

Perfect place to stop for a coffee (or beer!) if you've stayed overnight in Bandeira. Andrea and Cristina are great hosts, and I might well stop there this time instead of in the reasonably-priced and spotless Hostal Conde Rey in Bandeira.

After Casa Leiras, there's a slight detour later on left down to the main road, where there's a tienda/bar (signposted, although it's a bit further than they say, as ever in Galicia!), and then another café in a village (O Castro, I seem to recall) shortly before you commence the incredibly steep descent to Ponte Ulla. Instead of staying in Ponte Ulla or the albergue in Outeiro, treat yourself to the marvellous Pazo dos Gallegos Hotel. I got a late cheap booking on booking.com last June.

 

[Charrito]

Hotel Pazo dos Gallegos.

 

[gollygolly]

[QUOTE="If you walk further, I think Silleda is a more interesting place to stop than A Laxe. The modern exterior of the Xunta albergue in A Laxe is striking, but there is little nearby. Silleda has a range of places to stay (albergues through a spa), drink and eat.[/QUOTE]

The Albergue in A Laxe is an architectonic jewel, and must have cost a fortune, but so remotely located. There is "Mariá José", a bar/restaurant about half a kilometre or so away from the Albergue, or the much longer walk of about 2 or more kms to get to Bar/Supermercado Xeitoso in the direction of Santiso. When staying at A Laxe I chose to go to the latter, and stock up on food to prepare our supper at the Albergue, which has an enormous kitchen, but it was quite walk to the supermarket. The real challenge that we had at this albergue were the vicious mosquitoes.

 

[Charrito]

[QUOTE="If you walk further, I think Silleda is a more interesting place to stop than A Laxe. The modern exterior of the Xunta albergue in A Laxe is striking, but there is little nearby. Silleda has a range of places to stay (albergues through a spa), drink and eat.

The Albergue in A Laxe is an architectonic jewel, and must have cost a fortune, but so remotely located. There is "Mariá José", a bar/restaurant about half a kilometre or so away from the Albergue, or the much longer walk of about 2 or more kms to get to Bar/Supermercado Xeitoso in the direction of Santiso. When staying at A Laxe I chose to go to the latter, and stock up on food to prepare our supper at the Albergue, which has an enormous kitchen, but it was quite walk to the supermarket. The real challenge that we had at this albergue were the vicious mosquitoes.[/QUOTE]
It is strange that they should decide to construct the albergue so far off the beaten track. For those who are coming up the Sanabrés, it is possibly too much of a detour to go into the centre of Lalín, although it is perfectly feasible to do so from Lalín station.

 

[sabbott]

Laurie said it all about accommodation.
Yes I was reffering to .pdf file in resources section.

Please give my regards to Asun (if you'll stay there), just mention Slovenian peregrino from 2014 with bedbugs (chinches), she'll understand

I am staying with Asun now. I mentioned "bedbugs" and "bathrobe" and she remembered you right away, Kinky! She sends fond regards, and hopes you are feeling better....

 

[Charrito]

I am staying with Asun now. I mentioned "bedbugs" and "bathrobe" and she remembered you right away, Kinky! She sends fond regards, and hopes you are feeling better....

KinkyOne is known in every albergue and bar in Spain!

 

[KinkyOne]

I am staying with Asun now. I mentioned "bedbugs" and "bathrobe" and she remembered you right away, Kinky! She sends fond regards, and hopes you are feeling better....

Oh, how nice!!! Give her my kindest regards, would you, please. And tell her I was so much better after her treatment that last year I walked Levante/Sanabres/Muxia combo and that I'm currently in Vitoria-Gasteiz walking Bayona/Salvador/Primitivo/Finisterre.

Lots of well whishes for her mother Manuela aswell. The robe was hers

Ultreia!

 

[ksam]

Ahhh now being able to read these names and places and know them!! I'm gonna have to go thru my notes...which aren't always the best...but will add my two cents worth. Don't know whether or not to praise this route to the skies or keep quiet and not let anyone else know about it!! Actually found it fun when people would ask what route (esp Spaniards!) and they would just look at you and say What?? So for solitude...this is the route right now. 5 1/2 days of complete solitude!! Then the meet up in A Laxe! And still relative quiet.

Now I'm off to grab one of the grands and to the hospital...hopefully in time for grand baby numero seis! SO happy I made it back in time to say welcome little one!!

 

[peregrina2000]

Congrats on grandbaby Ksam! Glad you were able to walk and be a good grandma at the same time. Would love to hear your reactions when you have time, but of course grandbabies take precedence. .

 

[Charrito]

Congrats on grandbaby Ksam! Glad you were able to walk and be a good grandma at the same time. Would love to hear your reactions when you have time, but of course grandbabies take precedence. .

Congratulations! I hope you put doen two pilgrims on the credencial!

I'm not having a baby (at least I hope not!), but I certainly have to shed a few kilos on the Invierno this year. Doctor's orders, and wife's orders!

 

[peregrina2000]

Many thanks for the recommendation of Casa Leiras. Some more details of this albergue can be seen here :

http://www.gronze.com/galicia/pontevedra/dornelas/albergue-casa-leiras-1866

though will decide closer to the time whether we stop at Casa Leiras or continue along and up to the albergue at Outeiro. From the walk that we did in 2014, I remember stocking up with food at the Dia supermarket Ponte Ulla and rushing the last few kms to get to the albergue so as to get the ice-cream into the fridge. Arrived at the albergue and discovered that it had no fridge, nor very much in the way of anything for those who wanted to prepare their own food for eating.

Hey, gollygolly
I was just going through some old Invierno posts to get ready for a guide update and came across your pre-Invierno questions. Just wondering if you did walk it the Invierno and what your experience was like (and if you've posted that elsewhere, I'm sorry to repeat the question, just point me in the right direction).

I'm still amazed at how small the Invierno numbers are, so much for my brazen predictions. .

 

[Charrito]

Long time no speak, peregrina2000. I've been so busy recently that I haven't had time to post anything more about my second Invierno or my first Primitivo.

If you intend to update the Invierno guide, I'd be quite happy to find time to look through it again and let you have any comments.

Greetings from Salamanca!

 

[KinkyOne]

Long time no speak, peregrina2000. I've been so busy recently that I haven't had time to post anything more about my second Invierno or my first Primitivo.

If you intend to update the Invierno guide, I'd be quite happy to find time to look through it again and let you have any comments.

Greetings from Salamanca!

Oh, Charrito, long time no see indeed
Hope you're OK and already planning your next Camino. Take care!

K1

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Hey, gollygolly
I was just going through some old Invierno posts to get ready for a guide update and came across your pre-Invierno questions. .

Laurie, I’ve got the invierno in my sights for 2017 - with some bits of VdlP and maybe Madrid (an a la carte pilgrim)
Your notes will be invaluable. Many thanks for all your hard work.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie, I’ve got the invierno in my sights for 2017 - with some bits of VdlP and maybe Madrid (an a la carte pilgrim)
Your notes will be invaluable. Many thanks for all your hard work.

Hi, grace, I walked Madrid-Sahagun-Ponferrada to the Invierno in 2012, it's a great combination, IMO. But the Invierno is great in combination with any camino, I think, it is just a beautiful wonderful way. And you, with your Portugues Interior experience will not be fazed in the least by the lack of pilgrims. The last time I walked the Invierno, Rebekah came and joined me for a few days (A Rua to Chantada, I think it was) and she so rightly pointed out to me how the Invierno, in spite of its lack of pilgrim infrastructure and pilgrims, has a strong "camino feeling," but of course we were at a loss to explain what that means!

About the updates, I will not have much time till November, but will issue a call then and hope for lots of input. I will definitely be knocking on your forum door, Charrito! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Laurie, I will be eagerly awaiting. No rush though. Probably a May departure from ?somewhere?
Cheers, Grace

 

[AJ]

Thank so much for your extraordinarily prompt reply ! I know that I will now be choosing the O Guerra in Rodeiro !!

O Guerra was closed when I was there. It was Sunday. I don't know if it is always closed Sundays. Carpintiera is fine. It has a restaurant.

 

[KinkyOne]

O Guerra was closed when I was there. It was Sunday. I don't know if it is always closed Sundays. Carpintiera is fine. It has a restaurant.

Same here. And Carpinteiras also has a wonderful uphill position, beautiful sunset and watching planes landing at Santiago airport at night on the balcony. One of the best price/value deals ever on my Caminos!

 

[Charrito]

Oh, Charrito, long time no see indeed
Hope you're OK and already planning your next Camino. Take care!

K1

Yes, very well indeed, K1. As are you, I hope. If numbers are still ridiculously low I'll go for the Invierno again!

 

[gollygolly]

Hey, gollygolly
I was just going through some old Invierno posts to get ready for a guide update and came across your pre-Invierno questions. Just wondering if you did walk it the Invierno and what your experience was like (and if you've posted that elsewhere, I'm sorry to repeat the question, just point me in the right direction).

I'm still amazed at how small the Invierno numbers are, so much for my brazen predictions. .

I have started writing up my notes... and need to finish them, hopefully soon ! We had a wonderful time, even if totally barren in terms of other peregrinos, excepting the final couple of days once we joined the Camino Sanabres. I feel that the Invierno merits the infrastructure, though realise that without the numbers passing through there is little possibility of the albergues being commissioned. So sad, as it was quite different to walk without sharing the experience with others of a like-mind. Report to follow...