Variante Espiritual from This Weekend

[Charrito]

I've only recently got back home from the Camino de Invierno, but I need to get off my backside and do some more walking. I only have a few days, so I will start from Pontevedra and make my way up into the hills, down to Combarro, up to Armenteira, across to Barrantes and down to Vilanova de Arousa.

I've got the times of the boats to Pontecesures (around 9 on Tuesday and Wednesday), and will then walk into Padrón. But I doubt whether I'll carry on to Santiago. I've done the Camino Portugués 3 times, and I'm finding Santiago to be too touristy these days.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Charrito you are so fortunate to be able to head off on a whim. You must be living close-ish to Santiago? It’s so far for us Aussies and Kiwis to travel that we plan for ages and do longer caminos. Have a wonderful camino and please share views on the Espiritual. (I’ll be in Portugal in October for the Interior route from Viseu, woo-hoo)

 

[annakappa]

I've only recently got back home from the Camino de Invierno, but I need to get off my backside and do some more walking. I only have a few days, so I will start from Pontevedra and make my way up into the hills, down to Combarro, up to Armenteira, across to Barrantes and down to Vilanova de Arousa.

I've got the times of the boats to Pontecesures (around 9 on Tuesday and Wednesday), and will then walk into Padrón. But I doubt whether I'll carry on to Santiago. I've done the Camino Portugués 3 times, and I'm finding Santiago to be too touristy these days.

We walked the Camino Spiritual just 2 weeks ago.
Combarro is a delightful medieval village. There is a tourist office there, but unfortunately the two girls didn't know much about the route! Eventually, with a couple of ideas from these two girls, plus few comments from various villagers, we managed to find the trail.
It's TOUGH! A continual steep uphill climb for about 3 hours, or more ( didn't measure exactly). The views, looking back were spectacular. There was no possible place to buy anything, so bring a lot of water with you. One girl in our group of 5 ran out.
Sometimes you have to look carefully for direction markings.
We stayed in the albergue in Armentiera, which is a converted village communal hall, but quite adequate. Two places to eat in the village. The Monastery is worth a visit and I was privileged to be able to slip in quietly into the nuns chapel and listen to their beautiful singing of Vespers.
The walk the next day for the first hour is magical. " el Camino de la Piedra y del Agua. It follows a lovely small river, dotted with many old mills. The day, as was the day before, was hot.
It took us the whole day to reach Vilanova de Arousa and when we finally came to the coast, we were wilting, to say the least. We then found that we had to walk along a path by the side of the beach, which must have caused a lot of remarks and amusement to the hundreds of beach goers, as we were dressed in our walking clothes, boots and carrying our backpacks!
The Albergue in Vilanova de Arousa is situated in the sports complex, but again, quite adequate. Plenty of places to hang out and eat in town.
The man who seems to have organized this route, will collect your boat fare for the next day and give you a ticket. He will confirm the time if departure, which changes daily, according to the tide. Cost of the boat ride was €16.50 per person.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Turn left here!

 

[Charrito]

Charrito you are so fortunate to be able to head off on a whim. You must be living close-ish to Santiago? It’s so far for us Aussies and Kiwis to travel that we plan for ages and do longer caminos. Have a wonderful camino and please share views on the Espiritual. (I’ll be in Portugal in October for the Interior route from Viseu, woo-hoo)

Yes, I live in Salamanca and it only takes me a few hours to drive up to Galicia.

The Via de la Plata passes a kilometre away from my house, but I have no real desire to walk it!

I will, of course, post any information and photos on here.

 

[Charrito]

We walked the Camino Spiritual just 2 weeks ago.
Combarro is a delightful medieval village. There is a tourist office there, but unfortunately the two girls didn't know much about the route! Eventually, with a couple of ideas from these two girls, plus few comments from various villagers, we managed to find the trail.
It's TOUGH! A continual steep uphill climb for about 3 hours, or more ( didn't measure exactly). The views, looking back were spectacular. There was no possible place to buy anything, so bring a lot of water with you. One girl in our group of 5 ran out.
Sometimes you have to look carefully for direction markings.
We stayed in the albergue in Armentiera, which is a converted village communal hall, but quite adequate. Two places to eat in the village. The Monastery is worth a visit and I was privileged to be able to slip in quietly into the nuns chapel and listen to their beautiful singing of Vespers.
The walk the next day for the first hour is magical. " el Camino de la Piedra y del Agua. It follows a lovely small river, dotted with many old mills. The day, as was the day before, was hot.
It took us the whole day to reach Vilanova de Arousa and when we finally came to the coast, we were wilting, to say the least. We then found that we had to walk along a path by the side of the beach, which must have caused a lot of remarks and amusement to the hundreds of beach goers, as we were dressed in our walking clothes, boots and carrying our backpacks!
The Albergue in Vilanova de Arousa is situated in the sports complex, but again, quite adequate. Plenty of places to hang out and eat in town.
The man who seems to have organized this route, will collect your boat fare for the next day and give you a ticket. He will confirm the time if departure, which changes daily, according to the tide. Cost of the boat ride was €16.50 per person.

Thanks, annakappa. I think I've got all the info I need about the various parts of the stages. I know the area pretty well, but I've always travelled by car, so this will be a bit more difficult.

The monasteries at Poio and Armenteira are stunning, as are the views from up in the hills above Combarro. I have no fears about the climb up from the coast, especially after having recently walked the Invierno: there are some really tough stages on that route, such as the marvellous descent to and posterior ascent from the Miño in Belesar!

On the first day I'm planning to walk on after Armenteira along the Ruta de la Piedra y del Agua, and will stay in the Hospedaxe Os Castaños in Barrantes, right at the end of the route.

I've already spoken to Alberto in Vilanova de Arousa, and he has told me the departure times for the boat next week (it depends on tides), so I'll need to stay the night in Vilanova and leave the following morning. What a helpful guy, by the way. He called me back and spent 10 minutes telling me all about the route.

Right, time to start thinking about getting my rucksack out again!

 

[Kiwi-family]

Bom Caminho!

 

[Charrito]

Turn left here!View attachment 19702 View attachment 19701

Thanks! I took the same photos the last time I walked the Portugués!!!

 

[annakappa]

Yes, you are lucky to live so nearby! Bon Caminho!

 

[Charrito]

I'm in Pontevedra now and will spend the rest of the day relaxing, having a few (more) wines and thinking about the marvellous stage tomorrow.

If all goes well, I hope to get to Armenteira around 11 or 11.30, giving me time to visit the monastery and then wslk the 6 kms or so down to Barrantes/Ribadumia.

Lots of pilgrims here in Pontevedra. After walking the Invierno a few weeks ago it's a bit of a shock to the system!

 

[Charrito]

Nobody seems interestef in reading anything I post about this route, so I won't bother.

 

[madrid12]

I have only just seen your postings but I am interested. Usually after finishing the Ingles we do days out from Santiago, the last time being to Vilagarcia de Arousa, I know it's not Vilanova de Arousa but closeby , Pontevedra which we had not visited for about 15 years and have been to Padron.
Could be my next camino when I only have a week or so.

 

[annakappa]

Come on, Charrito.....I was/ am interested! Please don't stop now! I want to hear how your walk developed! Please........

 

[Charrito]

OK, I'll post later. I'm in Vilanova.

 

[LauraK]

I am interested too! Don't assume that because there aren't a lot of responses people are not interested...you've had over 360 views of your post in a few days. Many of us read the posts but may not post unless we have a question or feel we can add some valuable info. Also, in the future, others may search for info on this route while they plan their caminos so any insights you have may prove very valuable and much appreciated. I hope you are enjoying your camino.

 

[Charrito]

Yesterday was long, hard, but spectacular. The climb from Combarro to Armenteira is not for novices! Take plenty of liquid.

Spend some time in Combarro instead of following the signs to the right as soon as you get into the village.

Poio and Armenteira have beautiful monasteries, well worth stopping for some time.

The route down from Armenteira to Barrantes is marvellous. Take your time and enjoy the sounds and sights of the river and the mills.

More later.

 

[Charrito]

You could say that there are three or four parts to the stage from Pontevedra.

1. When you turn left over the bridge there are some kms uphill, but nothing strenuous. You cone out by a small chapel and there's a hotel and two restaurants in the village (all closed early yesterday). You then walk down through a wooded area and eventually get to the monastery at Poio (closed too!). You can get a stamp there and there's a bar down the road. Be careful crossing the main road, but you soon get sent down to the beach and walk along towards Combarro.

 

[Charrito]

2. Spend some time in the lovely village of Combarro. Just walk along a couple of hundred yards and you'll find lots of bars and restaurants.

3. The climb up to Armenteira is not easy, especially if it's hot. The first few kms are pretty tough at times. Take lots of liquids, as there is nowhere to stop in 10 kms! A lot of road walking until you get past the Mirador, then more uphill through eucalyptus woods. The last kilometre is a tricky little downhill stretch by a stream, and then suddenly the monastery appears! Closed on Mondays! Two bars right next to it, one closed yesterday. The albergue is up the road but I had a beer and carried on down to Barrantes.

 

[Charrito]

4. The Ruta da Pedra e da Auga is marvellous. Quite steep downhill for the first part. You'll see all sorts of water mills, bridges, mini waterfalls . . . Enjoy! There's a bar in the woods a couple of kms from the end. I stopped in the Hospedaxe Os Castaños, 50 metres away. Excellent value and lovely people.

 

[madrid12]

It sounds like a good, quiet camino which is what I like. Also cerrado is one of my camino words, I often walk in winter and place are closed. My other camino words are no tengo and no funciona. ( a bit off topic). Enjoy the rest of your camino, it sounds wonderful.

 

[Charrito]

I'm in Vilanova de Arousa. Lovely first 6 kms along the banks of the River Umia, then up through Pontearnelas (café open!), a bit of road walking, a short sharp climb and then down towards the sea. A few kms along the beach, over the footbridge and the albergue is on the right, at the end. Opens at 16.00!

Lovely girl running the place. Got my boat place (17 euros now) and we set sail at 09.00 ish tomorrow

3 Germans, 1 Mexican, 1 Texan and me. No other pilgrims in sight!

 

[Charrito]

By the way, there is NO CHANCE of getting lost. There are now more wooden posts and yellow arrows than you can imagine. All thanks to Alberto,from Vilanova, who has really done a great job.

Forget the crowds! This is a very special Camino.

 

[Charrito]

The boat trip is worth every penny! Joaquin is a wonderful guide and explains everything. We stopped by a batea (the mussel platforms), by the rocks where the apostle supposedly landed, by the Torres de Catoira . . .

Quite rough sea this morning, so we got a bit wet, but nearly 1 hour 45 minutes was the experience of a lifetime.

Do this 'variante' now, before it takes off!

 

[Charrito]

 

[annakappa]

View attachment 19804 View attachment 19805 View attachment 19806

By the way, there is NO CHANCE of getting lost.

Forget the crowds! This is a very special Camino.

There was one place, where our fittest walker of our small group of 5, had gone on ahead and missed the left hand turn in the woods, towards the end of the journey. She carried on and we had to shout and yell for her to come back. It was a logical mistake, because the woodland road carried straight on.

 

[annakappa]

View attachment 19804 View attachment 19805 View attachment 19806

Good pics! We had a different guide and, in fact a slightly larger boat as we were 7 that day. Yep, the ride was windy, cold, bumpy and exilerating. I didn't take any pictures, because I spent most of the time clutching my glasses, worried that they would be blown off my face. ( actually, I was impeded somewhat, because my right arm was in a plaster cast, so wasn't much use)! Anyway, I felt very privileged to have done this variant and to be able to enjoy Galicia from the water, instead of, as usual, walking it.
Thanks for posting your experience, after all!

 

[peregrina2000]

So glad that someone brought this up to the top. I was walking when you reported, Charrito. This will be very helpful -- one of these days!

 

[Charrito]

So glad that someone brought this up to the top. I was walking when you reported, Charrito. This will be very helpful -- one of these days!

After the Invierno, this is one of my favourite routes. I've done it twice and it's definitely one I would recommend.

There are some fantastic stages, especially the walk down from the monastery at Armenteira to Barrantes along the Ruta da Auga e da Pedra. There is also a really steep long climb from the lovely fishing port of Combarro up to Armenteira. As for the boat trip from Vilanova, it's unmissable.

 

[Charrito]

Thank you for the information on this route. I saw it dotted in the map in the Brierley guide but there was no detail on it. I'm walking the coastal route in September. Does this option add more days compared to the main Pontevedra to Padron route? The Brierley guide show it can be walked along the coast line or taking the boat option from Villanova to Catoira. The boat seems like a nice diversion or would I be missing out on a good streatch along the coast line?

It depends on how you divide the stages. Pontevedra to Armenteira is just about manageable, but you might want to stay in Combarro and then climb up the following day. You could divide the stages like this:

Option 1:
Pontevedra to Armenteira (albergue)
Armenteira to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Option 2:
Pontevedra to Combarro (cheap hostal in a lovely fishing village)
Combarro to Barrantes (excellent and cheap 'Hospedaje' Os Castaños' at the end of the Ruta da Auga e da Pedra)
Barrantes to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Whichever option you choose, you'll take a bit longer than the traditional one.

 

[unadara]

Thanks so much. Will add this now sounds amazing. Leave on coastal route from Porto Thurs 7th Apr. So much great advice here.

 

[Charrito]

Thanks so much. Will add this now sounds amazing. Leave on coastal route from Porto Thurs 7th Apr. So much great advice here.

Buen Camino!

 

[Migueldc]

Many thanks for the information. We set out on the Portugés on 16/05 at Porto.

I am reassured about the signage on the Variante Espiritual as I had been unable to find a clear map. The climb from Combarro sounds tough! Hopefully we’ll have got fit after 12 day walking…..

A question – do the boats from Vilanova or Vilagarcia only go in the mornings? I had hoped to go from Armenteira to the coast and by boat to Padrón on the same day. Any links for sailing schedules?

 

[Charrito]

Many thanks for the information. We set out on the Portugés on 16/05 at Porto.

I am reassured about the signage on the Variante Espiritual as I had been unable to find a clear map. The climb from Combarro sounds tough! Hopefully we’ll have got fit after 12 day walking…..

A question – do the boats from Vilanova or Vilagarcia only go in the mornings? I had hoped to go from Armenteira to the coast and by boat to Padrón on the same day. Any links for sailing schedules?[/Q

Many thanks for the information. We set out on the Portugés on 16/05 at Porto.

I am reassured about the signage on the Variante Espiritual as I had been unable to find a clear map. The climb from Combarro sounds tough! Hopefully we’ll have got fit after 12 day walking…..

A question – do the boats from Vilanova or Vilagarcia only go in the mornings? I had hoped to go from Armenteira to the coast and by boat to Padrón on the same day. Any links for sailing schedules?

It depends on the tides. The first time I was there the boat left at 08.30, but the second time we didn't set out until 14.00 and then Joaquín had to come back to Vilanova to pick up some people who arrived late.

 

[Julie Richards-Stanley]

Thankyou for the information. I really wanted to walk this but was short of information. I t looks well signposted so I'm not so worried about this section now

 

[Matt Wright]

Thank you for the information on this route. I saw it dotted in the map in the Brierley guide but there was no detail on it. I'm walking the coastal route in September. Does this option add more days compared to the main Pontevedra to Padron route? The Brierley guide show it can be walked along the coast line or taking the boat option from Villanova to Catoira. The boat seems like a nice diversion or would I be missing out on a good streatch along the coast line?

We walked the Variante Espiritual earlier this month - the first 2 days were spectacular (to Armentaria and to Villanova....well the Ruta del Pedra y Agua at least), but the last day's walking to Catoira was rubbish to say the least.

Granted it was pouring with rain, but it's nearly all road walking, and highway road walking at that. If the boat isn't running (quite common - the seas round there can be rough and it's only a small craft), I'd suggest walking the 10km or so to Vilagarcia de Arousa and then catching a train from there - it takes you right by the coast/river so you won't miss a thing.

As other posts have suggested, you'll have walked about 65km (hilly!) from Pontevedra by now (versus the sub-40km flat km on the interior route), so you've effectively done 3 days walking anyway, so shouldn't feel in any way guilty. And if you do feel guilty, feel free to walk all the way to Padron.....but don't say I didn't warn you about this stretch!

We kept a detailed blog www.jackiemattadventures.com so feel free to check it out for pictures and information about the Spiritual and Coastal route parts of the Camino Portuguese.

 

[annakappa]

Many thanks for the information. We set out on the Portugés on 16/05 at Porto.

I am reassured about the signage on the Variante Espiritual as I had been unable to find a clear map. The climb from Combarro sounds tough! Hopefully we’ll have got fit after 12 day walking…..

A question – do the boats from Vilanova or Vilagarcia only go in the mornings? I had hoped to go from Armenteira to the coast and by boat to Padrón on the same day. Any links for sailing schedules?

The boat leaves according to the tide!! That means that it can leave at any reasonable hour during the day. The hospitaleros at the albergue will tell you what the schedule is for the next day ( or, you might just catch an afternoon departure when you arrive in Vilanova).

 

[Charrito]

The boat leaves according to the tide!! That means that it can leave at any reasonable hour during the day. The hospitaleros at the albergue will tell you what the schedule is for the next day ( or, you might just catch an afternoon departure when you arrive in Vilanova).

Somewhere earlier (on this thread, I think) I posted the telephone details of the three fantastic people who deal with all this in Vilanova.

If you can't find them, please message me.

 

[magicalleela]

On a web page, it mentioned stopping at Ribadumia before Vilanova de Arousa. I haven't heard of Barrantes. Are they basically the same distancewise?

 

[Charrito]

Barrantes and Ribadumia is basically the same place. In fact, Barrantes is a parish of Ribadumia.

There's a beautiful place to stop or stay at the end of the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga: Hospedaxe Os Castaños.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I'm on the Camino Portugués at the moment and I'm fascinated by this so called "variant". I'm sure it is lovely as many of the walking routes in this area are but it has absolutely nothing historically to do with the Camino to Santiago. It is simply a modern albeit scenic shortcut to Padrón. of course everyone can do as they wish I just wonder if taking a boat for 28 kms is the equivalent of jumping a stage in a taxi or bus? In saying that I think these walking routes are great for those who want to keep walking after arriving in Santiago.

 

[magicalleela]

Barrantes and Ribadumia is basically the same place. In fact, Barrantes is a parish of Ribadumia.

There's a beautiful place to stop or stay at the end of the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga: Hospedaxe Os Castaños.

I can't find Hospedaxe Os Castanos on the internet though I found at booking dot com Hostal Santa Baia for 40 euros in Ribadumia. How much for a room there?

 

[Charrito]

I'm on the Camino Portugués at the moment and I'm fascinated by this so called "variant". I'm sure it is lovely as many of the walking routes in this area are but it has absolutely nothing historically to do with the Camino to Santiago. It is simply a modern albeit scenic shortcut to Padrón. of course everyone can do as they wish I just wonder if taking a boat for 28 kms is the equivalent of jumping a stage in a taxi or bus? In saying that I think these walking routes are great for those who want to keep walking after arriving in Santiago.

I beg to differ! There are some beautiful places on this route after you leave Pontevedra: the monasteries at Poio and Armenteira, the fishing village of Combarro, the spectacular Ruta da Pedra e da Auga down to Ribadumia, the river walk from there, the few kilometres along the beach to Vilanova de Arousa.

The boat trip is amazing, and there are many relevant connections to the route apparently taken by the apostle's body. But it's optional, and you can walk up to Padrón if you feel that this is 'cheating' in some way.

Don't knock it, please!

 

[Charrito]

I can't find Hospedaxe Os Castanos on the internet though I found at booking dot com Hostal Santa Baia for 40 euros in Ribadumia. How much for a room there?

www.oscastaños.es

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I'm not knocking it! I'm genuinely trying to find out its origins and connection to the Camino to Santiago. I'm writing a guide to this route for the Confraternity of Saint James in London. They pride themselves on trying to promote the routes to Santiago as they are held to be authentic by historians and heritage experts - I've been unable to find any such sources for this route.

 

[Camembert]

I can't find Hospedaxe Os Castanos on the internet though I found at booking dot com Hostal Santa Baia for 40 euros in Ribadumia. How much for a room there?

Os Castaños is at the end of the ruta da auga and pedra which starts at the monasterio de Armenteira.
You can't miss it as long as you keep walking from Armenteira, about 8 to 9 kms.
It is a restaurant and the nice lady rents a couple of rooms.
Very nice . We have been there the other day . I can't remember what we payed there last year but no more than 30 € for a double bedroom. And the lady cooked us a nice meal.
She even brought us to Vila Nova de Arousa because the sailing of the boat was very early due to the tide .
A few weeks ago we were traveling in the area by car and visited her and had a coffee.
Sympathic lady ! She only speaks spanish and galego but that is no problem.

 

[Camembert]

I beg to differ! There are some beautiful places on this route after you leave Pontevedra: the monasteries at Poio and Armenteira, the fishing village of Combarro, the spectacular Ruta da Pedra e da Auga down to Ribadumia, the river walk from there, the few kilometres along the beach to Vilanova de Arousa.

The boat trip is amazing, and there are many relevant connections to the route apparently taken by the apostle's body. But it's optional, and you can walk up to Padrón if you feel that this is 'cheating' in some way.

Don't knock it, please!

why cheating ? It is the charm of " my"caminho.

This year we did not walk the camino after 3 different ones the past years but visited many camino places all over from Pamplona to Lisbon and went by car to Fisterre and it felt as a acomplishment of a spirtual journey over all.

 

[Charrito]

Os Castaños is at the end of the ruta da auga and pedra which starts at the monasterio de Armenteira.
You can't miss it as long as you keep walking from Armenteira, about 8 to 9 kms.
It is a restaurant and the nice lady rents a couple of rooms.
Very nice . We have been there the other day . I can't remember what we payed there last year but no more than 30 € for a double bedroom. And the lady cooked us a nice meal.
She even brought us to Vila Nova de Arousa because the sailing of the boat was very early due to the tide .
A few weeks ago we were traveling in the area by car and visited her and had a coffee.
Sympathic lady ! She only speaks spanish and galego but that is no problem.

I've stayed there twice and, like Albertinho, make a point of calling in if we're in the area.

Great people, you can't miss the place (just at the end of the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga, and right in front of the Ribadumia tourist information place, which has a stamp, by the way).

Excellent value for money, good food, and a different place to stop if you fancy doing different stages.

On my first Variante Espiritual, I did a ridiculously long stage from Pontevedra to Os Castaños, but the second time (with my wife) we stopped overnight in the pretty fishing village of Combarro, then walked up the steep hill to Armenteira and down to Ribadumia.

 

[Charrito]

why cheating ? It is the charm of " my"caminho.

This year we did not walk the camino after 3 different ones the past years but visited many camino places all over from Pamplona to Lisbon and went by car to Fisterre and it felt as a acomplishment of a spirtual journey over all.

That's why I wrote 'cheating' in inverted commas, Albertinho! This route is officially accepted, and the boat trip is an absolutely marvellous experience, with a great running commentary from Joaquín.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I'm on the Camino Portugués at the moment and I'm fascinated by this so called "variant". I'm sure it is lovely as many of the walking routes in this area are but it has absolutely nothing historically to do with the Camino to Santiago. It is simply a modern albeit scenic shortcut to Padrón. of course everyone can do as they wish I just wonder if taking a boat for 28 kms is the equivalent of jumping a stage in a taxi or bus? In saying that I think these walking routes are great for those who want to keep walking after arriving in Santiago.

It's my understanding that it is actually very much linked to the Camino's history as St-James would have arrived to the area exactly that way: by boat, and going inland exactly through where the boats take us. It is also said Parron has the stone to which St-James's boat was attached upon arrival. Also the cruceiros on the shore have historical importance.

Now, in terms of walking the last 100km and wanting to earn a Compostela, yes, it will disqualify you if you take the boat, but you can also do the Variante and walk all the way rather than hopping on a lancha.

And many many Caminos these days are an individual's own "creation". Was reading about the Holy Grail Camino yesterday that goes from Valencia to Samport. Its website even names its "promoter".

 

[Charrito]

It's my understanding that it is actually very much linked to the Camino's history as St-James would have arrived to the area exactly that way: by boat, and going inland exactly through where the boats take us. It is also said Parron has the stone to which St-James's boat was attached upon arrival. Also the cruceiros on the shore have historical importance.

Now, in terms of walking the last 100km and wanting to earn a Compostela, yes, it will disqualify you if you take the boat, but you can also do the Variante and walk all the way rather than hopping on a lancha.

And many many Caminos these days are an individual's own "creation". Was reading about the Holy Grail Camino yesterday that goes from Valencia to Samport. Its website even names its "promoter".

If you start from Tui and then walk through Porriño, Redondela, Arcade and Pontevedra, BEFORE taking the detour for the Variante Espiritual, then you will walk far more than the minimum 100 kms required for your Compostela. It's then up to you whether you prefer to walk on (mainly road walking, it has to be said) from Vilanova de Arousa or to take the magical boat trip to Pontecesures, a few kms before Padrón.

The Variante Espiritual is just that: a 'variante' or 'detour' off the Camino Portugués, which is now getting more and more crowded.

I would compare it to the spectacular Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. Check out how many people walked this alternative to the Camino Francés. The numbers will shock you!

Both the Variante Espiritual and the Camino de Invierno are amongst the most beautiful routes you can take. I've just got back from doing some stages on the Camino Primitivo (pretty tough, but amazing!), but I would heartily recommend the ones I've talked about.

Buen Camino a todos/as!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

If you start from Tui and then walk through Porriño, Redondela, Arcade and Pontevedra, BEFORE taking the detour for the Variante Espiritual, then you will walk far more than the minimum 100 kms required for your Compostela. It's then up to you whether you prefer to walk on (mainly road walking, it has to be said) from Vilanova de Arousa or to take the magical boat trip to Pontecesures, a few kms before Padrón.

Buen Camino a todos/as![/QUOU

Infortunately that is not how the Compostela works: you can have walked from China, but if you do not walk the LAST 100km you do not get a Compostela. Total distance does not matter, all that matters is the last 100km and alas Padron, where the boat takes you is closer to Santiago than that. So no Compostela.

So a heads up to those who want a Compostela, the boat is not an option, not any more than taking a bus, taxi or train after Saria You may stumble upon a volunteer at tbe pilgrims' office who does not know this route and doen't realise a boat is involved, but then if earning a Compostela is important to you you may want to earn it.

But the Variante has a way to do it what does involve the boat, that will earn you a Compostela, but it's an extra 28km.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Infortunatly that ks not how the Compostela works Charrito. You must walk the last 100km, no matter how long ypu have walked before that. Start in China but take a bus, taxi or boat to within the last 100km radius and you do not get a Compostela.

Padron, where the boat drops you off is within that radius.

The Variante does allow you to walk the last 100km if you opt for the extra 28km by foot rather than hop on th boat.

One may find a volonteer at the Pilgrims' Office that does not know the route and doesn't realise a boat may have been involved but if you want to earn a Compostela fair amd square then avoid the boat and take the road option.

 

[Charrito]

Infortunatly that ks not how the Compostela works Charrito. You must walk the last 100km, no matter how long ypu have walked before that. Start in China but take a bus, taxi or boat to within the last 100km radius and you do not get a Compostela.

Padron, where the boat drops you off is within that radius.

The Variante does allow you to walk the last 100km if you opt for the extra 28km by foot rather than hop on th boat.

One may find a volonteer at the Pilgrims' Office that does not know the route and doesn't realise a boat may have been involved but if you want to earn a Compostela fair amd square then avoid the boat and take the road option.

What you say about having to walk the last 100 kms, Anemone, is perfectly true This is why the Camino Inglés is ok if you start in Ferrol, but not if you set off from A Coruña. It's also why hundreds and thousands descend on Sarria to walk the last few stages of the Camino Francés.

However, it's not a case of, as you say, one may find a volunteer at the Pilgrims' Office that does not know the route and doesn't realise a boat may have been involved. This variante is well known now and they DO accept the boat stage as long as you have started at least from Tui.

Believe me: I speak fluent Spanish, and when I got to the office in Santiago I explained very clearly where I had come from when I did the Variante Espiritual the first time. I also obtained the certificate of distance last time, and it includes the boat trip.

I have both certificates on the wall.

Therefore, if any of you out there are in any doubt, I guarantee that the Variante Espiritual is a perfectly valid route, whether you walk that stretch or take the boat!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

[QUOTE="Charrito, post: 428907, member: 36793"This variante is well known now and they DO accept the boat stage as long as you have started at least from Tui.

Believe me: I speak fluent Spanish, and when I got to the office in Santiago I explained very clearly where I had come from when I did the Variante Espiritual the first time. I also obtained the certificate of distance last time, and it includes the boat trip.

I have both certificates on the wall.

Therefore, if any of you out there are in any doubt, I guarantee that the Variante Espiritual is a perfectly valid route, whether you walk that stretch or take the boat![/QUOTE]


Well, just a few weeks ago I went to the pilgrim office, looking for a stamp and not a Compostela and the woman at the counter did not understand. I explained, in Castellano, my mother tongue, that I had walked the Variante including the boat and therefor had not walked the last 100km. She was confused. She then asked her colleagues who told her I was correct, I did not qualify.

So you may have gotten lucky and still got a Compostella but I would hate to tell people for whom the Compostella is important that they will qualify when they may very well walk out empty handed from the Pilgrim office.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

There are flyers about the Variante just about everywhere you look after Porto. Fear not, the information you need is readily available.

 

[Charrito]

[QUOTE="Charrito, post: 428907, member: 36793"This variante is well known now and they DO accept the boat stage as long as you have started at least from Tui.

Believe me: I speak fluent Spanish, and when I got to the office in Santiago I explained very clearly where I had come from when I did the Variante Espiritual the first time. I also obtained the certificate of distance last time, and it includes the boat trip.

I have both certificates on the wall.

Therefore, if any of you out there are in any doubt, I guarantee that the Variante Espiritual is a perfectly valid route, whether you walk that stretch or take the boat!

Well, just a few weeks ago I went to the pilgrim office, looking for a stamp and not a Compostela and the woman at the counter did not understand. I explained, in Castellano, my mother tongue, that I had walked the Variante including the boat and therefor had not walked the last 100km. She was confused. She then asked her colleagues who told her I was correct, I did not qualify.

So you may have gotten lucky and still got a Compostella but I would hate to tell people for whom the Compostella is important that they will qualify when they may very well walk out empty handed from the Pilgrim office.[/QUOTE]

En castellano: Lo que pasa es que si entras allí más o menos diciendo que a lo mejor hayas hecho algún tipo de trampa al no haber caminado los últimos 100 kilómetros, lo más seguro es que vas a tener problemas en conseguir la Compostela. Sin embargo, si explicas, come hice yo, que sí habías caminado desde el norte de Portugal pues te la van a dar sin ninguna duda.

De todas formas, la oficina de peregrinos en Santiago va a necesitar aclarar toda esta situación. Si no lo hacen, habrá peregrinos decepcionados después de esperar un par de horitas en la cola en Santiago.

In English: What happens is that if you go in more or less admitting that you might well have done a bit of 'cheating' by not having walked the last 100 kilometres, then you are almost certainly going to have problems obtaining the Compostela. However, if you explain, as I did, that you had walked from the north of Portugal then there is no doubt that they are going to give you the certificate.

Whatever the case, the Pilgrims' Office in Santiago are going to need to clarify this situation. If they do not do so there will be some disappointed pilgrims after having waited in the queue for a couple of hours in Santiago.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Well, since I didn't want a Compostela but just a stamp I don't see why I would have tried to see if I could get one. I was much happier not queuing, being taken straight to a desk to get a stamp and get on with my day. But it was interesting seeing the volonteer's reaction who had no clue what I had walked and what boat I was talking about when she asked why I only wanted a stamp and no compostela. She saw my credencial, saw I had started in Porto, so long distance was not an issue.

I think the logic here is the same: you get a Compostela if, and only if, you you walk the last 100km (or bike or horse back ride). It does not matter if you have walked 1000 km on a Camino that does not end in Santiago, of you walked the Salvador, if you are after that pieceof paper that's that. As long as tbe Office stciks to those rules, or other clearly established rules, then noone will be disppointed. I wasn't.

 

[peregrina nicole]

Hello Everyone! I'm working as a volunteer in the Oficina del Peregrino in Santiago. Johnnie Walker asked me to look into what counts for getting a compostela if you take the boat on the Variante Espiritual. One of the managers said that you would need to start from Vigo (coastal route) or Porrino (interior route) in order to take the boat and make the minimum distance requirement on foot for getting a compostela.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Thanks Nicole - Porriño to Santiago is 105 kms so this is welcome clarity for pilgrims that they now only have to walk 77 kms to receive the Compostela and can use the boat for the other 28kms.

Gracias

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Hello Everyone! I'm working as a volunteer in the Oficina del Peregrino in Santiago. Johnnie Walker asked me to look into what counts for getting a compostela if you take the boat on the Variante Espiritual. One of the managers said that you would need to start from Vigo (coastal route) or Porrino (interior route) in order to take the boat and make the minimum distance requirement on foot for getting a compostela.

Very interesting!

I take it this means the "last 100km" rule does not apply? (I can hear the gasps from the fans of chanong the rule to 300km ;0) )

Does it mean it also no longer applies to the Frances and that as long as you have walked 100 km somewhere and show up in Santiago you qualify?

If not, what is the logic? Because it's not as if there is no route alternative, there is.

Is it because the Via Crucis is considered as part of the pilgrimage that must be done and that the Office is not cruel enoigh to make us swim or row it? ;0) @ jonhiewalker, the Vias Crucis may be what you are looking for in terms of historical ties to Santiago btw. The flyer says about the route: " Travel the only maritime Via Crucis in the world where you can admire 17 centennial cruceros identifying this part of the Camino de Santiago as the "translatio".THE ORIGIN OF ALL ROADS." (Caps included, not me yelling at you ;0) ).

I think I will send in a copy of my credencial to get a Compostela and see how it flies.

Any information as to how this will be publicised by the Pilgrim's Office so people can know about this outside of the Forum, and on if volunteers will be trained about this?

It might be interesting to let albergues along the route kmow so that Pilgrims arrived at the office in full confidence that they do qualify.

For those who would like some imags of this route, here is the link to a short video: http://osalnes.com/

Oh, and regarding the climb up from Combarro, the locals think we are nuts, that wild boar will come out and get you and that you need more than carbon walking poles to protect yourself up there ;0) Also, Combarro is SUPER touristy in summer months, just to warn you of the potential shock when arriving there in hight season. Apprently people pay many many many thousands of Euros to summer there. It is a lovely fishing town, Postcard perfect, easy to understand why.

 

[Camembert]

Hello Everyone! I'm working as a volunteer in the Oficina del Peregrino in Santiago. Johnnie Walker asked me to look into what counts for getting a compostela if you take the boat on the Variante Espiritual. One of the managers said that you would need to start from Vigo (coastal route) or Porrino (interior route) in order to take the boat and make the minimum distance requirement on foot for getting a compostela.

Nicole here on this forum, anyway those who are for some time present we try to keep the names of the caminhos Portuguêses clear to everybody so maybe you can adopt that as well.and putting them in subforums it is clear for everybody-although I hope so -about which specific caminho we are talking.

We talk about the central camino Português being the one which stretches out from Porto via São Pedro de Rates, Barcelos, Ponte de Lima, Valença do Minho/Tui, o Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis and Padrón to Santiago.

The Interior caminho Português goes from Farminhão nearby Coimbra ,Viseu, Chaves to the Via de la Plata and links than to Santiago.
So o Porriño is on the central caminho.

Bom caminho.

 

[Camembert]

Very interesting!

I take it this means the "last 100km" rule does not apply? (I can hear the gasps from the fans of chanong the rule to 300km ;0) )

Does it mean it also no longer applies to the Frances and that as long as you have walked 100 km somewhere and show up in Santiago you qualify?

If not, what is the logic? Because it's not as if there is no route alternative, there is.

Is it because the Via Crucis is considered as part of the pilgrimage that must be done and that the Office is not cruel enoigh to make us swim or row it? ;0) @ jonhiewalker, the Vias Crucis may be what you are looking for in terms of historical ties to Santiago btw. The flyer says about the route: " Travel the only maritime Via Crucis in the world where you can admire 17 centennial cruceros identifying this part of the Camino de Santiago as the "translatio".THE ORIGIN OF ALL ROADS." (Caps included, not me yelling at you ;0) ).

I think I will send in a copy of my credencial to get a Compostela and see how it flies.

Any information as to how this will be publicised by the Pilgrim's Office so people can know about this outside of the Forum, and on if volunteers will be trained about this?

It might be interesting to let albergues along the route kmow so that Pilgrims arrived at the office in full confidence that they do qualify.

For those who would like some imags of this route, here is the link to a short video: http://osalnes.com/

Oh, and regarding the climb up from Combarro, the locals think we are nuts, that wild boar will come out and get you and that you need more than carbon walking poles to protect yourself up there ;0) Also, Combarro is SUPER touristy in summer months, just to warn you of the potential shock when arriving there in hight season. Apprently people pay many many many thousands of Euros to summer there. It is a lovely fishing town, Postcard perfect, easy to understand why.

The Combarro area, indeed the whole Salnés area is beautifull. We camped in Sanxenxo, the biggest touristical place around and played golf just behind the monasterio of Armenteira in Meís the other day-just some days after we missed you in Ponte de Lima . Saw no bears, only the road. And flying golfballs.
We spoke to local people and they are very happy with the pilgrims.
You could do the Variante Espiritual in three days Day one. Walk from Pontevedra to Combarro, second day walk to Armenteira and on to Barrantes at the end of the beautiful riverwalk, ruta de Augas e de Pedras . In Barrantes is hostal os Castaños. 3rd day BArantes to Vila Nova de Arousa . The owner of os Castaños ,a nice lady, is willing to phone Alberto of the boat about what time you have to be at the quay in Vila Nova due to the tides.
Bom caminho

 

[Anemone del Camino]

And did you know there is even a short cut to Combarro, but alas it doesn't take you through the Poio Monastery which is a gem (even if the host at the door doesn't understand tourists are not necessarily well versed in religious history of the area, confuses people and then wonders why they don't get it ;0) I l pretended his explanations were ban on! )

I went the "official way" and almost was not able to make it up a super steep hill, only 5 or 1o meters long. Only to be compared in steepness to tne Brusco on the Norte. Bring your poles or someone to push you up. And then the short walk in the middle of nowhere was quite uncomfortable, eerie. Glad to be out of there.

But Albertinho, what you describe is actually 4 days: Comabrro, Ribadumia, Vilanova, and then Padron. Granted if the boat leaves in the am you could walk from Padron in the am, but if it leaves in the pm it's 4 days. I know this confused me when planning before I walked.

Amd again, do not necessarily go by what the people at the sports center albergu in Vilanova will tell you about boat departures. Get the numbers for all the people doing the trip when at the Armenteira albergue and insist on the schedule that suits you. Do not buy a ticket at tne albergue before checking all departure times. Depending on the number of people they have leaving that day, some captains will want to take a smaller boat that can only be taken out when the tide is higher. They will make you wait to take the boat that is cheaper to run, while the competitor who is not selling tickets via the albergue may have taken you earlier.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So o Porriño is on the central caminho.

Bom caminho.

Now we know why some of us are told a Compostela can be granted, and others not. Voluntees making the call just don't know all the routes well enough to decide, how could they ;0).

 

[Camembert]

And did you know there is even a short cut to Combarro, but alas it doesn't take you through the Poio Monastery which is a gem (even if the host at the door doesn't understand tourists are not necessarily well versed in religious history of the area, confuses people and then wonders why they don't get it ;0) I l pretended his explanations were ban on! )

I went the "official way" and almost was not able to make it up a super steep hill, only 5 or 1o meters long. Only to be compared in steepness to tne Brusco on the Norte. Bring your poles or someone to push you up. And then the short walk in the middle of nowhere was quite uncomfortable, eerie. Glad to be out of there.

But Albertinho, what you describe is actually 4 days: Comabrro, Ribadumia, Vilanova, and then Padron. Granted if the boat leaves in the am you could walk from Padron in the am, but if it leaves in the pm it's 4 days. I know this confused me when planning before I walked.

Amd again, do not necessarily go by what the people at the sports center albergu in Vilanova will tell you about boat departures. Get the numbers for all the people doing the trip when at the Armenteira albergue and insist on the schedule that suits you. Do not buy a ticket at tne albergue before checking all departure times. Depending on the number of people they have leaving that day, some captains will want to take a smaller boat that can only be taken out when the tide is higher. They will make you wait to take the boat that is cheaper to run, while the competitor who is not selling tickets via the albergue may have taken you earlier.

Yes Anemone we know the coastal shortcut from Pontevdra. We stayed almost a week on the Salnés peninsula , camping in Sanxenxo and explored almost everything ,even the chaotic "capital" of Salnés, Vila Garcia. It is a nice area with very kind people who are living there.
Yes we do remember that steep hill.
Now and then I dream about it as a nightmare
We never walk without poles ,even on flat parts.
Did you mean the uncomfortable medieval riverpath to Barrantes ? We liked it and the bar at the end of the riverpath was a welcome place.
I did not know there are several people who offer boattrip.
We went with a boat from the coast guard. We paid Alberto at the quay ,16€ per person .we liked it although the ride was a bit bumpy on the waves.
We had to go early in the morning so had not time to reach Vila Nova de Arousa in time but the nice owner of the os Castaños hostal took us by car to Vila Nova. Saint James had no problem with that and neither did we

About the timeschedule. Depending on the tide again if you are early on the boat and after a one hour lasting trip you are almost in Padrón at the same day. lso our trip lasted 3 days . But you can be unlucky when it is not sure they can't sail at the end of the day so you have to wait untill the next day or sometimes one day more as the skipper told me. Fortunately we as pensionados there was not timepressure to catch a plane after all. We had plenty of time and in the most unfavorable time we had one day less in Porto on the way back. We planned 4 weeks for our caminho last year and with the thunderstorm earlier in May, we could afford to stay at casa da Fernanda for some days and wait for better weather to continue.
Bom caminho

 

[Camembert]

Now we know why some of us are told a Compostela can be granted, and others not. Voluntees making the call just don't know all the routes well enough to decide, how could they ;0).

Yes that is worrisome.. You should expect they will have the expertise to know all about the different caminho's at the Pilgrims office.
The first time we walked from Lisbon they hardly looked at our 2 credentials per person !
We collected so many stamps and fortunately Antonio of the bar/hostal in Pedra Furada had" fresh "credentials in stock. It looked like the quantity of stamps was enough to issue the Compostela.

The second camino (Inglès) Laurie Reynolds-aka peregrina2000- coincidentely volonteer at the Pilgrim office by then "severly" checked every inch of our credential and aproved it by issueing our Compostelas .
Lovely woman she is ! We still have the picture of the happy moment.

The third time I entered the pilgrimoffice ,my Goprocamera in a chest harnas running but the man behind the desk complained about it.. No video, no video ! As we were entering a secret place somewhere I just wanted to register the happy moment of acomplishing our journey. Okay I respect that .there was an issue on this forum the other day capturing people or not on cameras. During editing the vid I blurred the man's face and still had some images of what the former Pilgrims office was like .the man probably was annoied..hardly researched our credentials and wrote my name as it was so I complained about it and wanted my name written in latin as it has to be in the context of the latin text of the Compostela.
So after explaining and insisting he looked on his computerscreen and found my name in proper antique latin. Maybe he had a bad night the night before !?

That brings me at the idea that maybe they download o Freixo's maps in their computers and make maps of all the different caminos so in an instant they can see your camino on screen and can compare the credential ...
But maybe they allready have something like that @JohnnyWalker ?
I don't think so due to another post of @peregrinaNicole two days ago.

Bom caminho

 

[lettinggo]

It depends on how you divide the stages. Pontevedra to Armenteira is just about manageable, but you might want to stay in Combarro and then climb up the following day. You could divide the stages like this:

Option 1:
Pontevedra to Armenteira (albergue)
Armenteira to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Option 2:
Pontevedra to Combarro (cheap hostal in a lovely fishing village)
Combarro to Barrantes (excellent and cheap 'Hospedaje' Os Castaños' at the end of the Ruta da Auga e da Pedra)
Barrantes to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Whichever option you choose, you'll take a bit longer than the traditional one.

Hola

I am investigating this route and would like to hear if anyone have a name on a place to stay at Combarro?
Cheap hostal sounds good to me

Bom Caminho
Lettinggo

 

[Camembert]

We stayed in this place last year
http://www.infohostal.com/pt/a/hogardelpuerto

 

[lettinggo]

We stayed in this place last year
http://www.infohostal.com/pt/a/hogardelpuerto

Obrigado

 

[peregrina nicole]

Hello Everyone! I'm working as a volunteer in the Oficina del Peregrino in Santiago. Johnnie Walker asked me to look into what counts for getting a compostela if you take the boat on the Variante Espiritual. One of the managers said that you would need to start from Vigo (coastal route) or Porrino (interior route) in order to take the boat and make the minimum distance requirement on foot for getting a compostela.

Hello! Just to reply to my own post, I've been looking at the new Cathedral de Santiago credencial. On the back where it has the Camino Portugues en Epana, Camino Ingles y Camino de Fisterra y Muxia it states that: 'para poser obtainer la "Compostela'" la variante spiritual debe iniciarse, como minima en Porrino o Vigo' This is what I was told by the office managers, but if you meet someone at the desk who tells you that you don't have enough kilometres show them this statement. If you have an old credencial, ask them to drag out a new one (there is a drawer of these next to each station) flip to the page mentioned above and point this out. I did the Portugues by the central route i 2009. I'm looking forward to the coastal route and variante spiritual.

Buen Camino!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

In terms of mileage you might want to take note of what Matt and others have noted "As other posts have suggested, you'll have walked about 65km (hilly!) from Pontevedra by now (versus the sub-40km flat km on the interior route)" . So, yes it includes a short boat ride that follows the exact path of St. James remains on their way to SDC and some other associated history and artifacts that actually relate to the apostle as opposed to just the myriad of paths people took to get to SDC. Of course that is if the boat is running. If it isn't then a great many more miles are added to get to Padron. Unfortunately, it is apparent that for most and possibly some associations, the really important part of this is the compostella paper chase. How sad that the meaning of such journeys needs a certificate to sanctify it. I wonder how much better the whole Caimno experience would be if they dropped the certificate.

I very much agree with you about the Compostela - but that's for another discussion. I perhaps didn't express myself sufficiently clearly in that and other posts. I think that there are two distinct types of "Camino routes" which are being considered. This first is that category of the medieval pilgrim routes to Santiago which are historically documented and which those of us walk who wish to follow in the footsteps of the millions of pilgrims who have gone before. We know about these routes from historic documents and a significant body of academic research.

Separate from those are modern routes created by pilgrims walking them as short cuts or diversions - sometimes because of the establishment of more modern religious shrines or like in the case of the Variante under discussion someone recently thought it a good idea to create a picturesque diversion from the historic route. I'm not knocking these variants and when they become lasting and established they get included in guidebooks.

The discussion has helped clarify one central point regarding this Variant and the Compostela - previously the Pilgrims Office required pilgrims to walk 100 kms continuously to Santiago. They have now clarified that this variant is an exception and that pilgrims who use a boat for some of it will still qualify if they started in Vigo or Porinno and therefore overall will have walked more than 100 kms to Santiago.

The "Variante Espiritual" is a very picturesque route with growing pilgrim facilities and pilgrims are using it - therefore I'll include it in the new guide book. However whilst there is a great deal of historical evidence to authenticate the medieval pilgrim routes through Portugal to Santiago there is not a shred of historical evidence that medieval pilgrims used this variant or indeed that there is any connection between it and the martrydom of Saint James more than a millennium previously.

 

[maytebaos]

I've only recently got back home from the Camino de Invierno, but I need to get off my backside and do some more walking. I only have a few days, so I will start from Pontevedra and make my way up into the hills, down to Combarro, up to Armenteira, across to Barrantes and down to Vilanova de Arousa.

I've got the times of the boats to Pontecesures (around 9 on Tuesday and Wednesday), and will then walk into Padrón. But I doubt whether I'll carry on to Santiago. I've done the Camino Portugués 3 times, and I'm finding Santiago to be too touristy these days.

Hola Hola Charrito !!!
Queremos hacer la variante espiritual , solo hemos hecho Camino primitivo, y Te pregunto, Es muy muy dificil hacer esa ruta?? Tendriamos mucha dificultad? Como Te fue con la parte que tienes que hacerlo en barco? Desde pontevedra a Padron son solo dos etapas? Te agradeceria infinito que me contestaras, ya que tengo reservas para todas las etapa si hacemos el portugues, pero si hacemos la variante espiritual, quiza tendria que cancelan de pontevedra a ponte censures - por favor , espero Tu respuesta mil gracias
Mayte

 

[maytebaos]

We walked the Camino Spiritual just 2 weeks ago.
Combarro is a delightful medieval village. There is a tourist office there, but unfortunately the two girls didn't know much about the route! Eventually, with a couple of ideas from these two girls, plus few comments from various villagers, we managed to find the trail.
It's TOUGH! A continual steep uphill climb for about 3 hours, or more ( didn't measure exactly). The views, looking back were spectacular. There was no possible place to buy anything, so bring a lot of water with you. One girl in our group of 5 ran out.
Sometimes you have to look carefully for direction markings.
We stayed in the albergue in Armentiera, which is a converted village communal hall, but quite adequate. Two places to eat in the village. The Monastery is worth a visit and I was privileged to be able to slip in quietly into the nuns chapel and listen to their beautiful singing of Vespers.
The walk the next day for the first hour is magical. " el Camino de la Piedra y del Agua. It follows a lovely small river, dotted with many old mills. The day, as was the day before, was hot.
It took us the whole day to reach Vilanova de Arousa and when we finally came to the coast, we were wilting, to say the least. We then found that we had to walk along a path by the side of the beach, which must have caused a lot of remarks and amusement to the hundreds of beach goers, as we were dressed in our walking clothes, boots and carrying our backpacks!
The Albergue in Vilanova de Arousa is situated in the sports complex, but again, quite adequate. Plenty of places to hang out and eat in town.
The man who seems to have organized this route, will collect your boat fare for the next day and give you a ticket. He will confirm the time if departure, which changes daily, according to the tide. Cost of the boat ride was €16.50 per person.

Hi ! Do you mind to let
Me know in how many days you did the variante espiritual ? I really appreciate it !! What about km in between towns ? Easy to find where to sleep ? I have everything under control if I walk the Camino portugues , but I really would love to walk the variante, but in kind of insecure
Thank you in advance !
Mayte

 

[annakappa]

Hi ! Do you mind to let
Me know in how many days you did the variante espiritual ? I really appreciate it !! What about km in between towns ? Easy to find where to sleep ? I have everything under control if I walk the Camino portugues , but I really would love to walk the variante, but in kind of insecure
Thank you in advance !
Mayte

We were lucky because the boat left early morning. I think at 8 am, so we reached Padron still early in the day.
We stayed in Armentiera and in Vilanova de Arousa.
I felt it a privilege to be able to take the boat trip. As I mentioned, the Camino de la Piedra y del Agua is magical. A beautiful,and historically interesting walk.
We had no problem at all finding a place to sleep. But that might depend on the time of the year.

 

[lettinggo]

Hi ! Do you mind to let
Me know in how many days you did the variante espiritual ? I really appreciate it !! What about km in between towns ? Easy to find where to sleep ? I have everything under control if I walk the Camino portugues , but I really would love to walk the variante, but in kind of insecure
Thank you in advance !
Mayte

Hola

Minimum 2 days and there is an albergue where you can stay.
Here are some information about the route.
I hope this helps.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo

 

[Jacobus]

If you start from Tui and then walk through Porriño, Redondela, Arcade and Pontevedra, BEFORE taking the detour for the Variante Espiritual, then you will walk far more than the minimum 100 kms required for your Compostela. It's then up to you whether you prefer to walk on (mainly road walking, it has to be said) from Vilanova de Arousa or to take the magical boat trip to Pontecesures, a few kms before Padrón.

The Variante Espiritual is just that: a 'variante' or 'detour' off the Camino Portugués, which is now getting more and more crowded.

I would compare it to the spectacular Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. Check out how many people walked this alternative to the Camino Francés. The numbers will shock you!

Both the Variante Espiritual and the Camino de Invierno are amongst the most beautiful routes you can take. I've just got back from doing some stages on the Camino Primitivo (pretty tough, but amazing!), but I would heartily recommend the ones I've talked about.

Buen Camino a todos/as!

Just want to point out that the requirement of 100km is the last 100 km, not just any 100 km. I walked the variant in 2015 which is in the last 100k. I declared that I did at the Pilgrims Office. After some consultation amongst the staff I was granted the Campostella. I understand both sides of this conversation and would not have been disappointed had my last 100k not been recognized. The stamps in my credential also bear witness to my route.

Cheers

Jim

 

[Camembert]

Just want to point out that the requirement of 100km is the last 100 km, not just any 100 km. I walked the variant in 2015 which is in the last 100k. I declared that I did at the Pilgrims Office. After some consultation amongst the staff I was granted the Campostella. I understand both sides of this conversation and would not have been disappointed had my last 100k not been recognized. The stamps in my credential also bear witness to my route.

Cheers

Jim

There was just a discussion in another post yesterday about this subject !

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Jim - see previous posts. The Pilgrims Office has clarified that if pilgrims start their Camino in Porriño or Vigo (or farther back) and take the boat option they will qualify for the Compostela.

 

[jean evans]

It depends on how you divide the stages. Pontevedra to Armenteira is just about manageable, but you might want to stay in Combarro and then climb up the following day. You could divide the stages like this:

Option 1:
Pontevedra to Armenteira (albergue)
Armenteira to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Option 2:
Pontevedra to Combarro (cheap hostal in a lovely fishing village)
Combarro to Barrantes (excellent and cheap 'Hospedaje' Os Castaños' at the end of the Ruta da Auga e da Pedra)
Barrantes to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Whichever option you choose, you'll take a bit longer than the traditional one.

Thank you for all this detailed information! It is really helpful in our planning for walking from Vigo in July next year - and possibly doing the

I beg to differ! There are some beautiful places on this route after you leave Pontevedra: the monasteries at Poio and Armenteira, the fishing village of Combarro, the spectacular Ruta da Pedra e da Auga down to Ribadumia, the river walk from there, the few kilometres along the beach to Vilanova de Arousa.

The boat trip is amazing, and there are many relevant connections to the route apparently taken by the apostle's body. But it's optional, and you can walk up to Padrón if you feel that this is 'cheating' in some way.

Don't knock it, please!

Hi there, Thank you for all this detailed and interesting information! You have convinced us to do the Variante Espiritual when we walk from Vigo in July next year.

 

[magicalleela]

Vespa at the Monastery in Armenteria was great. It was super windy when I took the boat trip, with metal seat, it was miserable. The guide spoke in Spanish with minimal English.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

I have included walking notes to this "Variante" in the CSJ guidebook which is available in the resources section of the forum.

 

[marjm007]

Nobody seems interestef in reading anything I post about this route, so I won't bother.

I am interested!

 

[Charrito]

I am interested!

That was ages ago! And I did write more!

 

[Cee2017]

Hola

I am investigating this route and would like to hear if anyone have a name on a place to stay at Combarro?
Cheap hostal sounds good to me

Bom Caminho
Lettinggo

Stayed a a few days ago at HOTEL XEITO in Combarro, nice room 22€ lovely people.1 min from yellow arrows! Address: avenida De la Cruz,35. Tel +34 986 77 00 39

 

[Mark James]

It depends on how you divide the stages. Pontevedra to Armenteira is just about manageable, but you might want to stay in Combarro and then climb up the following day. You could divide the stages like this:

Option 1:
Pontevedra to Armenteira (albergue)
Armenteira to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Option 2:
Pontevedra to Combarro (cheap hostal in a lovely fishing village)
Combarro to Barrantes (excellent and cheap 'Hospedaje' Os Castaños' at the end of the Ruta da Auga e da Pedra)
Barrantes to Vilanova (albergue)
Vilanova to Pontecesures (by boat, and then 2 or 3 kms. on foot to Padrón)

Whichever option you choose, you'll take a bit longer than the traditional one.

Thanks for this thread. I'm planning to do it (from the north) in March 2018. Unfortunately as you say the monastery at Armenteira, is closed on Mondays, I think I'll stay in Padrón (Sunday), Vilanova de Arousa or Hospedaxe Os Castaños (Monday, 25 euros with breakfast), and get to Armenteira Tuesday. How much is the stay at the monastery?
I like to have backup plans: There is a Pension Derby in Vilagarcia de Arousa (26.25 with breakfast), and Hotel París in Poio (27 with breakfast). I did consider walking from Os Castaños to Poio, but this seems like too much for one day.
I am compiling a database of places to stay and eat and have used the Sleeping on the Camino Portugues - route Monacal from Porto resource, but this seems to lack data on the Variante and the coastal route. I am using MS-Access to record the information, and plan to transfer the data onto my tablet into the Easy Database android app. But I will try to upload the data as CSV files, when it's field tested and I am back (in April). Thanks for reading.
Mark (a man who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing ;-)

 

[Limah]

Jim - see previous posts. The Pilgrims Office has clarified that if pilgrims start their Camino in Porriño or Vigo (or farther back) and take the boat option they will qualify for the Compostela.

Hi Johnnie, I got your book and have been looking it over. I leave today. I just want to check in and make sure that you can attest to what you wrote above:
If I start in Vigo, take variante espiritual (without the boat or with the boat) and go to Santiago, they will honor my pilgrimage at Vigo being the starting point?
thank you