LIVE from the Camino Pilgr on the Levante

[gracethepilgrim]

Hi all Levante veterans, I’m trying to get my head around the options for the last few stages into Toledo. Can anyone clarify distances for these optional stages please (and identify if I’ve misunderstood routes). I have various figures in my notes (oops)

Opt A: Tembleque-Villa de Bogas-Almonacid de Toledo (? km) then next day Almonacid de Toledo-Nambroca-Burguillos-Toledo (? km)

Opt B: Tembleque-Villa de Bogas-Mora (?km) then next day Mora-Macaraque-Almonacid de Toledo-Nambroca-Burguillos-Toledo (?km)

 

[pilgr]

Hi pilgr,
Perhaps your route could be Tembleque, Mora, Toledo, in 2014 I went that route and spent the night at Hosta Agripano in Mora, which left about 30 Kim's into Toledo.
Regards
George

Thanks, but...

 

[pilgr]

Hi pilgr,
Perhaps your route could be Tembleque, Mora, Toledo, in 2014 I went that route and spent the night at Hosta Agripano in Mora, which left about 30 Kim's into Toledo.
Regards
George

Amigos say 40k...

http://vieiragrino.com/camino/camino/etapa16.asp

 

[george.g]

Hi pilgr,
Just shows you how inaccurate various sources can be in regard to distance, ie mundicamino 31kms, viewranger gpx 33kms, google maps 36 kms, wikiloc gpx 39kms, amigos 40kms, which is right ??
In Toledo I stayed in the hostel in the castle in the outskirts of the city, not the best location but good facilities.
Regards
George

 

[pilgr]

Hi pilgr,
Just shows you how inaccurate various sources can be in regard to distance, ie mundicamino 31kms, viewranger gpx 33kms, google maps 36 kms, wikiloc gpx 39kms, amigos 40kms, which is right ??
In Toledo I stayed in the hostel in the castle in the outskirts of the city, not the best location but good facilities.
Regards
George

Hi pilgr,
Just shows you how inaccurate various sources can be in regard to distance, ie mundicamino 31kms, viewranger gpx 33kms, google maps 36 kms, wikiloc gpx 39kms, amigos 40kms, which is right ??
In Toledo I stayed in the hostel in the castle in the outskirts of the city, not the best location but good facilities.
Regards
George

where did u stay in Timblinky?

 

[george.g]

Hi pilger,
I stayed at Hotel A Posada, its on booking.com at £30 with breakfast, when I arrived in the village, I had a quick look round and decided I deserved a bit of luxury.(its on the main road)
You will find an arrow on a post at the begining of Calle Hospital, and a tile on the wall of the shop opposite called "El Capricho Manchego" next to the church.
Regards
George.

 

[pilgr]

Hi pilger,
I stayed at Hotel A Posada, its on booking.com at £30 with breakfast, when I arrived in the village, I had a quick look round and decided I deserved a bit of luxury.(its on the main road)
You will find an arrow on a post at the begining of Calle Hospital, and a tile on the wall of the shop opposite called "El Capricho Manchego" next to the church.
Regards
George.

I guess there is inflation in Spain, because it was 35€ for me. Unfortunatly, the casa rural was sold out. There is a "cheese" hotel 2km back toward Villacaña on the carraterra for 28€. The hotel I am staying has a bathtub which my bones were dearly grateful!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi pilgr,
Just shows you how inaccurate various sources can be in regard to distance, ie mundicamino 31kms, viewranger gpx 33kms, google maps 36 kms, wikiloc gpx 39kms, amigos 40kms, which is right ??
In Toledo I stayed in the hostel in the castle in the outskirts of the city, not the best location but good facilities.
Regards
George

For an in-town option in Toledo, consider Albergue Los Pascuales, easy to find on the internet. Rooms have few beds (4 beds per room, maybe 6?), good place to wash/dry clothes, breakfast is minimal and not so good, but it has a great location inside the walls very close to all the tourist sites. I think George stayed in a nicer place, but had a longer walk into town. Pascuales is clean and relatively new.

I would also give an unsolicited plug for staying a day in Toledo. There is a LOT to see. And Toledo at night time, after all the day bus trips have left is so very different from Toledo during the day when there are throngs and throngs of tourists. It is beautiful at night.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi all Levante veterans, I’m trying to get my head around the options for the last few stages into Toledo. Can anyone clarify distances for these optional stages please (and identify if I’ve misunderstood routes). I have various figures in my notes (oops)

Opt A: Tembleque-Villa de Bogas-Almonacid de Toledo (? km) then next day Almonacid de Toledo-Nambroca-Burguillos-Toledo (? km)

Opt B: Tembleque-Villa de Bogas-Mora (?km) then next day Mora-Macaraque-Almonacid de Toledo-Nambroca-Burguillos-Toledo (?km)

Hi, grace, this is one of those Levante questions whose answer seems to change all the time. I can't tell you the exact kms, but I can tell you that I walked Tembleque to Mora via Villa de Bogas and that was a very do-able day. Bar for stopping in Villa de Bogas. The next day from Mora to Toledo is LONG. There is also a lot of asphalt once you get to the outskirts of Toledo, and a lot of walking through suburbs. We did it on a Sunday, so there was a lot of activity out and about in the streets. Unfortunately, everything in Nambroca was closed up tight because of fiestas in town the night before. But as I know I've already said in other posts (sorry for the repetition) there are few moments more magical as when you come upon the view across the river of Old Toledo. It is just amazing. So that magical view made up for all the pain -- kind of like childbirth, as soon as the baby is born you forget all the suffering you went through.

Let us know what you decide! Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

I guess there is inflation in Spain, because it was 35€ for me. Unfortunatly, the casa rural was sold out. There is a "cheese" hotel 2km back toward Villacaña on the carraterra for 28€. The hotel I am staying has a bathtub which my bones were dearly grateful!

What is a "cheese" hotel? Is that some special Left Coast vocabulary term that us flatlanders are unaware of?

Hope to hear a report on the lovely Plaza Mayor in Tembleque. When I walked through there were emergency repairs going on because a portion had collapsed (and the owners of the part of the plaza that let this happen were in jail). Just wondering whether it has been restored to its glory and what it looks like. Rest up those weary bones, pilgr! It is so much fun to read your updates.

 

[pilgr]

Where do you guys recommend staying in Mora???

In Toledo? (Peregrina2000, does albergue have sheets and blankets? I am not sure I have the energy to walk to the plaza today. Google 'translator' says 'Cheese Hotel')

Thanks!

 

[peregrina2000]

Where do you guys recommend staying in Mora???

In Toledo? (Peregrina2000, does albergue have sheets and blankets? I am not sure I have the energy to walk to the plaza today. Google 'translator' says 'Cheese Hotel')

Thanks!

About Toledo -- https://www.alberguelospascuales.com. I see comforters on those beds.

About Mora -- has a lot of options. We took the very cheapest option we could find. And it doesn't seem to be on any of the Levante lists anymore, so maybe it has closed (but it did have heat, which was welcome that May). I remember this place, http://www.hostalagripino.com. (We were going to go eat there, but the price of the menú del día had doubled for the weekend, which seems to be a common occurrence in this part of Spain, I also found it in Coca on the Camino de Madrid).

Enjoy tomorrow's walk to Mora, I remember it as being pretty nice, though very flat.

 

[JLWV]

Mora-Toledo was 39,5 km for mi.
In Mora I stayed at the Hotel Agripino (2015). The lady owner of the hostal (grandaughter of the founder), was very polite with pilgrim, and invited to coffee and pastry before leaving next day.
Mora is capital city of this olive producing área and there is many lifeliness at night.

Arriving at Toledo is in my opinión an unforgettable experience: we can see the city more tan one hour before, but when you reach the Tajo river, you must turn around the city untill you reach the bridge to enter. Both tiring and exciting due to the views you get.
When I arrived it was Saturday during the Greco exhibition: there were plenty of tourists and I just found a little room in a little hotel very near of the catedral. D0 not remenber the name. On other occasion, touristic tour, I stayed at the hotel Maria Cristina, 10 mn out of the walls, in the modern city, 2 mn from the exit way. (At night I had to tie the flag on my balcony to stop the noise it did)

Buen camino

 

[alansykes]

Almonacid de Toledo's Albergue is in the changing rooms of the municipal swimming pool, 4 loos, 6 showers w hot water, VERY basic Free

VERY basic is right, although there was a bit of cardboard that I put over a bench and slept on with my sleeping sack (key from the caretaker of the poli next door). A Valencian pilgrim who was there a day or two earlier claimed there were cockroaches, but I didn't see any.

Almonacid's Kuki Bar [sic] is possibly the most unpleasant bar I've ever come across - when I was there it was dirty, full of illegal smoking (led by the barman) and borderline racist. The bar at the social centre was much more welcoming but did no food.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Hi, grace, this is one of those Levante questions whose answer seems to change all the time. …..Mora to Toledo is LONG. …...there are few moments more magical as when you come upon the view across the river of Old Toledo. It is just amazing. So that magical view made up for all the pain -- kind of like childbirth, as soon as the baby is born you forget all the suffering you went through.

Let us know what you decide! Laurie

Hi Laurie,
It sounds gorgeous. I’m so thrilled that @pilgr and @Brandy have been posting so much up-to-date info or I’d probably be second-guessing my choice right now. Still a bit of trepidation regarding the lonliness but knowing we have a lovely contact in the Valencia Amigos (@JLWV) is a comfort.
Thanks for your enthusiasm! I’ll definitely give it a really good go as far as Toledo... and beyond if I can.

 

[pilgr]

The Camino de Levante from Tremblinque to Mora, you MUST have the kml files. The waymarking is sparse to non-existent, mostly after 3 hours walking. There is semi-mountainous terrain starting half-way in. Plus there is walking on the highway where large trucks are going in excess of 100kmh only feet away. I would call this definitely dangerous. In fact, I would advise pilgrims NOT to take this route due to the poor waymarking and stretches on the freeway. Instead do the flat Surestre route from Tremblique through Villanova de Bogus.

 

[peregrina2000]

The Camino de Levante from Tremblinque to Mora, you MUST have the kml files. The waymarking is sparse to non-existent, especially after 3 hours walking. There is semi-mountainous terrain starting half-way in. Plus there is walking on the highway where large trucks are going in excess of 100kmh only feet away. I would call this definitely dangerous. In fact, I would advise pilgrims NOT to take this route due to the poor waymarking and stretches on the freeway. Instead do the flat Surestre route from Tremblique through Almonacid.

Wow, pilgr, that suggests that things have changed. My notes say it was a "marvellous walk" and that is certainly not what you described. Did you go through Villanova de Bogas? Maybe that's the difference, but it certainly sounds like you did not have a lot of fun today. Where are you staying? Hang in there, pilgr!

 

[DkPond]

Matt,
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to do these postings and updates. My April 2nd departure from Valencia is less than a week away and you can bet that I've been following your steps and making notes.

D.Pond (James)

 

[pilgr]

Wow, pilgr, that suggests that things have changed. My notes say it was a "marvellous walk" and that is certainly not what you described. Did you go through Villanova de Bogas? Maybe that's the difference, but it certainly sounds like you did not have a lot of fun today. Where are you staying? Hang in there, pilgr!

The route I went, directly from Tremblique to Mora, is called the Camino de Levante (see pic) and I have been validating my position today with Jean Luc as I update him on signage issues. The route that goes through Villanova de Bogus (Sic) is called the Camino de Sureste.

In all fairness, the Camino de Levante signage has been exceptional for the first 500km. I simply have hit a miserable stretch with signage 3 hrs in today. Jean Luc knows about it and I am sure it will be addressed promptly.

Personally, I am sure glad I had the kml files today!

 

[JLWV]

Hi Matt, it looks like you had a bad experience today.
It is sure that CM410 is a heavy traffic road, but I used it very few (in 2015), less tan 800 m in one cross and two stretches.
Probably it is a problem of marking, as you mailed to me 6 points to be reviewed, quasi so much as for all the former days together.
I enjoyed the semi-mountainous land after crossing CM410 and Algodor river, in spite of being rocky way in the olive trees área. At the end, the marked way separated from the guide's map to run through a quite natural path, down the castle.
buen camino

 

[JLWV]

One more thing, both the guide as the oficial map of the IGN show a spring some 2 km after Algodor river, called ´´fuente del rincón´´, which is said to give very good wáter, but I was unable to locate it. Next time, as I now use the GPS of the telephone, may be I find it.

 

[pilgr]

Attached is a screen shot of the kml files showing the Camino de Sureste on top and Camino de Levante on bottom. (I know that sounds counter intuitive as the Levante is more often north of the Sureste). Where they start together on the right is Timblique. You can see the Levante spends a spell on the carreterra where the posted speed is 100kmh (see pic).

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks for the detail @pilgr. Something for me to be aware of in June (if I get that far and if the wonderful Vieirigrinos haven’t been out with their yellow paint).
I hope you’ve rested up in Mora.Are you staying in Hostal Agripano or Pension Toledano ?

 

[pilgr]

Thanks for the detail @pilgr. Something for me to be aware of in June (if I get that far and if the wonderful Vieirigrinos haven’t been out with their yellow paint).
I hope you’ve rested up in Mora.Are you staying in Hostal Agripano or Pension Toledano ?

Los Consejos "The Rabbitts" hostal

 

[moromauro]

Just a quick post to thank pilgr for all the informations he keeps on giving us about his experiences on the Camino del Levante.
I'm reading his posts greedly while longing for my start in early may and i find in his words lots of useful informations i'm adding to my "personal guidebook" i'm making up by putting together all the informations i can collect!

 

[pilgr]

In Almondacid, at the famous Kiki bar. I went in to get some fried tators and eggs for breakfast. The owner said sure, in about 10 min. I said "sure, that sounds fine." Then the guy takes off in his car, leaving several patrons drinking beer and me alone for 10 min. He went to the grocery store! See pic with the 80€ Spa sign below.

 

[Chuck Cunningham]

lol... that is rich.

 

[Sheffield James]

I am trying to collect a credencial in Valencia today (24 March) but I don't know the address of the amigos. I have seen a number of references to their opening hours, but I cannot see the address in the various posts.
Can anyone help me, please?

 

[mspath]

I am trying to collect a credencial in Valencia today (24 March) but I don't know the address of the amigos. I have seen a number of references to their opening hours, but I cannot see the address in the various posts.
Can anyone help me, please?

In an earlier thread Peregrina2000
cites the following tip--

Try contacting the Valencia Amigos --
Dr. Gil y Morte, 24-1º-3ª
46007 Valencia
Tel.: 96 385 99 82
Fax: 96 313 01 79
info@vieiragrino.com

I think they are only open on Friday evenings though.

Here is a thread that says no credenciales are available in the cathedral. That was my impression as well. https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/recent-camino.26572/

Good luck and Buen camino!

 

[JLWV]

Calle Gil y Morte, n 24
Just where this streey croises The San Vicente streey, on The way
Wr open in one hour
Ser you soon

 

[JLWV]

Sorry for bad writing, my cellular intends to correct to spanish!!!!

 

[DkPond]

Wow. I just realized that I will be visiting the Amigo's office in just one week.
I better finish packing.

 

[pilgr]

Calle Gil y Morte, n 24
Just where this streey croises The San Vicente streey, on The way
Wr open in one hour
Ser you soon

Near the train station

 

[pilgr]

I have to say that after doing the Caminos Norte, Frances, and La Plata, walking into Toledo has to be by far the most stunning city I have walked into in Spain!

 

[Sheffield James]

Thanks everyone for helping me find the Amigos' address so speedily + an extra special thank-you for @JLWV who provided a really great service (as did his very friendly colleagues) when I arrived at the Amigo office.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks everyone for helping me find the Amigos' address so speedily + an extra special thank-you for @JLWV who provided a really great service (as did his very friendly colleagues) when I arrived at the Amigo office.

Sorry I was not online, but you can always count on mspath to help out!

But, wait a minute, this is really going to make forum history, @Sheffield James, if we have THREE "live from the Camino" posts going at once with Levante pilgrims!!! You have to start your own thread now, and let us know how it goes for you. Buen camino!!! Laurie

 

[JLWV]

James will not walk alone, after him we received a couple from Alaska who starts to morrow, slowly at the beginning, and other couple of northamericans, bikers, with three children!

 

[Sheffield James]

Sorry I was not online, but you can always count on mspath to help out!

But, wait a minute, this is really going to make forum history, @Sheffield James, if we have THREE "live from the Camino" posts going at once with Levante pilgrims!!! You have to start your own thread now, and let us know how it goes for you. Buen camino!!! Laurie

I'll do my best, @peregrina2000.

 

[Sheffield James]

James will not walk alone, after him we received a couple from Alaska who starts to morrow, slowly at the beginning, and other couple of northamericans, bikers, with three children!

Sounds like 'total gridlock' ahead !!

 

[andy.d]

Good to catch up with all this - and Buen Camino to those walking. I walked in 2009 and met no pilgrims until Zamora. A great Camino.

Could I respectfully suggest people buy and carry the Guide? As well as supporting the Amigos, it has lots of useful information on accomodation.

Andy

 

[KinkyOne]

Good idea pilgr. We’re waiting to see what you come up with
By the way, I have the following albergue in my notes but no reference as to where I read it or the date It probably won’t suit if you don’t have a sleeping bag.

Almonacid de Toledo's Albergue is in the changing rooms of the municipal swimming pool, 4 loos, 6 showers w hot water, VERY basic Free

That's exactly the situation about "albergue" in Almonacid de Toledo. If still needed I can provide mobile phone number of the caretaker there.

 

[pilgr]

Good to catch up with all this - and Buen Camino to those walking. I walked in 2009 and met no pilgrims until Zamora. A great Camino.

Could I respectfully suggest people buy and carry the Guide? As well as supporting the Amigos, it has lots of useful information on accomodation.

Andy

I am all about co-locating useful info such as a guidebook. However, I am viscerally against having to carry a heavy guidebook. Perhaps if there is an electronic version, that would make sense to me.

As to supporting the Amigos (assuming it means supporting the efficacy of the Camino de Levante), I like the idea of an individual peregrino sponsoring a signpost on the camino. That would be a great way of raising funds if that what is needed. My sponsored signpost would be located halfway between Trimblique and Mora, a replacement for this one (see pic).

 

[DkPond]

That's exactly the situation about "albergue" in Almonacid de Toledo. If still needed I can provide mobile phone number of the caretaker there.

I am all about co-locating useful info such as a guidebook. However, I am viscerally against having to carry a heavy guidebook. Perhaps if there is an electronic version, that would make sense to me.

As to supporting the Amigos (assuming it means supporting the efficacy of the Camino de Levante), I like the idea of an individual peregrino sponsoring a signpost on the camino. That would be a great way of raising funds if that what is needed. My sponsored signpost would be located halfway between Trimblique and Mora, a replacement for this one (see pic).View attachment 32741

I agree about supporting the Amigos and I bought their guide (in spite of the fact that there is a Spanish version that is more up to date free on the web.)

That said, it is pretty difficult and expensive to buy their guide if you are in the U.S.
More importantly, it weighs almost 500kg .. over a pound ... that is a considerable percentage of my desired carry weight.

Count me in with sponsoring a signpost or two.

James (DkPond)

 

[KinkyOne]

The weight is definitely something the Amigos will have to take into consideration with next edition. Or maybe they go completely on-line with the guide.

 

[JLWV]

To all people who will begin this way soon: some of the Amigos were yesterday checking the flooded área near Almansa, and it looks like it will stay flooded more time, so read again what told Pilgr about how to pass it.
Buen camino

 

[pilgr]

I just watched Shirley McClain claim to Oprah that walking the Camino, among other things, is about begging for food! Have I been walking the Camino wrong?

 

[Sheffield James]

To all people who will begin this way soon: some of the Amigos were yesterday checking the flooded área near Almansa, and it looks like it will stay flooded more time, so read again what told Pilgr about how to pass it.
Buen camino

I'm heading to Almansa tomorrow @JLWV, so thanks for the update about the flooding. I'll check out Pilgr's advice after I've done some snorkel shopping here in La Fonte de Figuera.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

I'm heading to Almansa tomorrow @JLWV, so thanks for the update about the flooding. I'll check out Pilgr's advice after I've done some snorkel shopping here in La Fonte de Figuera.

James, looking forward to your ‘live from’ posts. Will you start a new thread?

 

[pilgr]

I am walking between Almorox and San Martin. Absolutely beautiful mountainous trekking! No signs to speak of. So bring your kml files!

Anything I should know about (ie what happened to Sulu)?

 

[pilgr]

Ok, my critique of Almorox to San Martin. As far as natural beauty, an A+! Stunning mountain hiking, incredible views of snow peaks, pine trees!, boulders, and little mountain houses.

As far as waymarking, a D-.( I still think Timblique to Mora is an F). Yes, there is waymarking leaving Almorox and as you approach San Martin. Yes, there is an occassional professional looking Camino de Levante sign. But when you are navigating a forest for 21km straight with multiple roads intersecting with minimal waymarking, that makes for a failing grade to me. In fact, other than rain which would make this stretch absolutely miserable due to nasty mud, I could see how throwing in poor waymarking as well would put one over the edge to wanting to quit this camino (eg Sulu?).

To me, the waymarking is critical to the camino. Lucky for me, I figured out the kml files thanks to the people on this blog. The camino is only good as its weakest link. For the Levante, those links are so far the waymarking Trimblique to Mora, and today's Almorox to San Martin. I don't think it is a mystery both stretches suffer: both San Martin is 21km and Mora is 25km straight uninterrupted walking. It takes a lot of effort for someone from Amigos to walk those uninterrupted stretches, identify the problems and bring in the materials to fix it. But like I said, a camino is only good as its weakest stretches. Sorry for my Debbie Downer 2cents!

 

[Sheffield James]

James, looking forward to your ‘live from’ posts. Will you start a new thread?

@gracethepilgrim, I hope to post something on a new thread over the weekend. It makes no sense to disrupt the flow of pilgr's excellent 'live' reports.

 

[DkPond]

Thanks for the good information, Pilg. I'm in Valencia now. Two rest-tourism days and off I go.

 

[pilgr]

Thanks for the good information, Pilg. I'm in Valencia now. Two rest-tourism days and off I go.

I am excited for you! Now there will be two Ducks on the Camino de Levante. I thought you were leaving from Alicante?

 

[pilgr]

Comments: San Martin to Cebreros

This estapa is only 17.2km according to Amigos. The first 5km is next to the carreterra. Then it goes onto a trail.

I had serious mud problems along the beginning of the trail stretch. There are periodic streams of water coming out of the mountainside where the trail is. I don't know if the water is there all the time, if there are natural occuring springs, as it has been almost a week since it rained. In addition, motorcycle tracks have torn up the earth to make a swamp like effect to walk through. I tried navigating through multiple areas of this thinking it might be short lived. The mud was deep and thick enough I didnt want to tackle it after about 1-2km.

Finally, I back tracked to another carreterra thinking I would walk on this to Cebrerros. This is where the carreterra brushes the camino at about 6km. Initially I got on the carreterra to cross one of the streams going over the camino but under a bridge for the carreterra. I was to discover there is no shoulder to walk on and many blind curves. Even so, I walked for about 3-4km on the carreterra with no other option I could think.

I ended up walking an additional 6k today as a result. I tried cutting back onto the Camino from the carreterra but got turned back by loose dogs. Finally I found Camino Real which I took from the carreterra back onto the Camino!

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks Matt. You commented on loose dogs - were there many on the Levante? I’m debating whether to take my walking pole with me (I only use 1) Cheers Grace

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks Matt. You commented on loose dogs - were there many on the Levante? I’m debating whether to take my walking pole with me (I only use 1) Cheers Grace

Grace, I am a dog-phobe but I don't remember any loose dogs at all on the Levante.

 

[DkPond]

I stopped by the Friends this evening and had the very good fortune to meet JLWV in person! It was truly a gracious and warm welcome. I was surprised how active the office was, with quite a number of people to obtain information on the Camino(s).

I want to state for the record my gratitude for the work that these volunteers do. I am in their debt.

James (Dkpond)

 

[DkPond]

Dogs and mud. Never a good combination......

Comments: San Martin to Cebreros
I ended up walking an additional 6k today as a result. I tried cutting back onto the Camino from the carreterra but got turned back by loose dogs. Finally I found Camino Real which I took from the carreterra back onto the Camino!

 

[pilgr]

Thanks Matt. You commented on loose dogs - were there many on the Levante? I’m debating whether to take my walking pole with me (I only use 1) Cheers Grace

The only reason I encountered loose dogs was because I was OFF the Camino trying to make my way from the carreterra, back to the Camino. I have not encountered loose dogs on the Camino itself.

 

[JLWV]

Hi Matt , this season is propitious to water. In next two days you will see several streams but they were not a problem when I passed half-April.

About dogs, until the last week of way I saw very few.

After Cebreros, I was walking with a lady from Australia through a prairie in the mountain. When we arrived at the gate to go out of the prairie, we saw a large mastiff sitting just at the gate. When he saw us, he raised, separated some 20m, let us pass, and when we were out, turned back to his sitting place. No problem, they are used to ''handle'' with pilgrim.

Later, when in Galicia, there were two kind of dogs. Ones were closed in country houses and were scandalous when we pass. Others are loose in the country and are quite unaware of us.

Buen camino to all.

 

[pilgr]

Cebrerros to Avila: Absolutely breath taking views of mountain ranges etc. Very peaceful pasture walking while also walking through evergreen forest. Definitely a physical challenge as you are climbing over 1000meters in total, as you climb two mountains. The net gain is 400m.

Waymarking was excellent!

If you are going to walk the total 38k, I would definitely suggest packing a good lunch as there are just a few bars on the way and no telling if they will be open.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, wow, pilgr, are you in the albergue in Avila? Going to spend a rest day there? The best views of the walls are actually very close to the albergue. Just cross the bridge and turn right. Can't believe you are already in Avila. Glad you had good mountain walking days.

 

[Sheffield James]

Thanks Matt. You commented on loose dogs - were there many on the Levante? I’m debating whether to take my walking pole with me (I only use 1) Cheers Grace

I came across a large beast of a dog on the road not long after leaving Almansa. As quickly as I could I scrambled over a concrete wall, only to find it sauntered past without a care in the world. Seconds after I'd scrambled back over the wall, an Alsation and a cross-breed came running from the same direction. There was absolutely no way I could do it a second time, so I stood my ground and prepared for the worst. Thankfully, they had as little interest in me as the first dog and they simply ran past and off down the lane. I always carry one pole with me to fight off the perros + am just relieved it wasn't called into action on this occasion. Apart from this, all other dogs seen during my first week have been on leads or behind chain link fencing, or similar.

 

[sulu]

Comments: San Martin to Cebreros

This estapa is only 17.2km according to Amigos. The first 5km is next to the carreterra. Then it goes onto a trail.

I had serious mud problems along the beginning of the trail stretch. There are periodic streams of water coming out of the mountainside where the trail is. I don't know if the water is there all the time, if there are natural occuring springs, as it has been almost a week since it rained. In addition, motorcycle tracks have torn up the earth to make a swamp like effect to walk through. I tried navigating through multiple areas of this thinking it might be short lived. The mud was deep and thick enough I didnt want to tackle it after about 1-2km.

Finally, I back tracked to another carreterra thinking I would walk on this to Cebrerros. This is where the carreterra brushes the camino at about 6km. Initially I got on the carreterra to cross one of the streams going over the camino but under a bridge for the carreterra. I was to discover there is no shoulder to walk on and many blind curves. Even so, I walked for about 3-4km on the carreterra with no other option I could think.

I ended up walking an additional 6k today as a result. I tried cutting back onto the Camino from the carreterra but got turned back by loose dogs. Finally I found Camino Real which I took from the carreterra back onto the Camino!

This areas was very muddy when I walked at the beginning of March and it has rained and snowed since. At one point I had to climb over a wall with a fence on top as the whole camino was awash but after I climbed back, about 50 metres further on, the whole walk improved, the worst part is the first 3-4 kms after crossing the N403. Not long after that the path becomes semi-paved and is completely dry.
Having to climb that wall, not something one should do at my age, just re-affirmed my decision to pack up and go home.

 

[sulu]

re dogs: many of the dogs out in the country are sheep dogs, these can be any breed. They don't attack they simply herd you away from their territory, not at all something to be afraid of so try and relax

 

[pilgr]

Oh, wow, pilgr, are you in the albergue in Avila? Going to spend a rest day there? The best views of the walls are actually very close to the albergue. Just cross the bridge and turn right. Can't believe you are already in Avila. Glad you had good mountain walking days.

@peregrina2000
I am staying in a hostel in Avila. I took Sunday off to rest up from that long walk from Cebrerros. I have developed a little gripe too, so wanting to take care. Avila is an incredibly beautiful town-city. The castle that surrounds the town and the view from it, is amazing.

I did buy a saco last nite at Decathalon, to make it easier to stay in the albergues!

 

[pilgr]

Comment Cebrerro to Avila: On the second mountain ascent, BEWARE! There are white cows running around with yellow flechas on them which may provide confusion to waymarking. See pic

 

[JLWV]

Cebrerros to Avila: Absolutely breath taking views of mountain ranges etc. Very peaceful pasture walking while also walking through evergreen forest. Definitely a physical challenge as you are climbing over 1000meters in total, as you climb two mountains. The net gain is 400m.

Waymarking was excellent!

If you are going to walk the total 38k, I would definitely suggest packing a good lunch as there are just a few bars on the way and no telling if they will be open.

Hola Matt
In a former message about this area I used the word "prairie" where you speak about "pasturage" . I understand yours is the right word. Thank you for improving my English and by the way correcting the information.

This was my preferred area in the way, nicest one, but it is only my opinion.

About Avila, I got there the same day as an other Spanish pilgrim, but I didn't see him in the albergue "las tenarias", at the exit of the city. Later when I saw him again he told me he didn't know this albergue and stayed in a youth albergue at the entry of the city. So, for general information, there are two albergues in Avila.

Next step use to be Gotarrendura. Be aware there are no shop in this village, and when I passed the only bar closed at 7PM, which is very unusual in Spain. Buy food before arriving. The albergue is nice.

Buen camino

 

[JLWV]

An other data, you are in the land of Santa Teresa de Jesus. You will see marks of Teresian's ways.

 

[pilgr]

Hola Matt
In a former message about this area I used the word "prairie" where you speak about "pasturage" . I understand yours is the right word. Thank you for improving my English and by the way correcting the information.

This was my preferred area in the way, nicest one, but it is only my opinion.

About Avila, I got there the same day as an other Spanish pilgrim, but I didn't see him in the albergue "las tenarias", at the exit of the city. Later when I saw him again he told me he didn't know this albergue and stayed in a youth albergue at the entry of the city. So, for general information, there are two albergues in Avila.

Next step use to be Gotarrendura. Be aware there are no shop in this village, and when I passed the only bar closed at 7PM, which is very unusual in Spain. Buy food before arriving. The albergue is nice.

Buen camino

Do you know of any towns before Gotarendura to stock up at a store or restaurant? Thank you!

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, pilgr,
Things may have changed but when I walked to Gotarrendura, the café in town was happy to open up and cook a meal for pilgrims. There is a good kitchen in the albergue, though, if you have food.

But this website lists Cardeñosa as having a bar at least, so you could get some food of some sort there and carry it on if you're not ready for a meal. http://www.caminosantiago.org/cpperegrino/caminos/etapa.asp?EtapaId=217&CaminoId=14.

Have a good walk tomorrow, I remember some really pretty parts. Nothing spectacular, but lovely in springtime. Buen camino.

 

[JLWV]

Yes, the lady in charge of the bar, as other inhabitants in Gotarrendura, was very polite with us, but there was a problema of horary. She made a meal for mi at 6PM, and for the other pilgrim who used to eat much later she prepared ''bocadillos''.

Yes Cardeñosa is a village on the way with 500 inhabitants. Must have some shop.
Later Peñalva de Avila is smaller, only 100 inhabitants,

 

[pilgr]

Yes, the lady in charge of the bar, as other inhabitants in Gotarrendura, was very polite with us, but there was a problema of horary. She made a meal for mi at 6PM, and for the other pilgrim who used to eat much later she prepared ''bocadillos''.

Yes Cardeñosa is a village on the way with 500 inhabitants. Must have some shop.
Later Peñalva de Avila is smaller, only 100 inhabitants,

#1 Lesson of the day for Avila to G-town, rely in the arrows over kml files. My files must be outdated as it had me going down a dead end path right outside of Avila.

#2 Lesson of the day, don't rely on arrows necessarily...caveat to #1. The arrows had me going the wrong way through a massive landfill. When asked, the workers said I took the wrong turn. When I told them the arrows pointed this way, they said the arrows were wrong. After I asked them if they were the reason why the arrows are wrong, they got in their tractor to go fix it. I hope they did.

#3 Albergue in G-town. It looks wonderful from the outside. I excitedly stocked up on dinner material in Avila thinking of what I would cook in the kitchen. I called ahead and told the woman what time I would arrive. She pleasantly said "call me when you arrive." When I arrived, I called her 10 times with no answer. Finally, I went to the bar and the bartender claimed she was responsible for the albergue. She had me sign in and told me to knock really hard on the albergue door, someone would answer. No answer. Then right after I left, she closed the bar for the day 430pm! I returned for help and she was gone. No response by phone either. I ended up walking to the next town, which albergue is finely equipped with a hard floor to sleep on. So I hitched a ride to the next big town, A-town.

Summary: When asked by me what the biggest difference between Americans and Latinos are culturally, I was told by a Latina that Americans have higher standards. I am not sure how true this really is, but having standards means having expectations. And expectations definitely got me into trouble today!

 

[pilgr]

Hey guys,

I have just a few more days on the Levante when I arrive in Medina del Campo. Then I head north to the Camino Frances, and no longer walking on the Levante. I think I may be walking on the Sureste. Anyways, it has been fun. I really enjoyed everyone's support. My biggest concern was this would be a lonely camino without other peregrinos. This blog has made it anything but! Sorry I posted negative experiences. I know everyone likes to be positive. I tried to put both good and bad experiences out there, keeping it real to what my experience has been. Thanks again.

 

[george.g]

When Don and I passed through G town in '14 the drill was to 'phone the town hall on the morning of arrival, arrive, check in at the town hall and collect key, cross the road to the bar and arrange a time and menu for dinner.
The albergue was close by in a "cultural" centre with kitchen and washing machine.
Regards
George
PS See posts in this section re directions and photos for sports hall albergue in Arevalo

 

[Donovan]

When Don and I passed through G town in '14 the drill was to 'phone the town hall on the morning of arrival, arrive, check in at the town hall and collect key, cross the road to the bar and arrange a time and menu for dinner.
The albergue was close by in a "cultural" centre with kitchen and washing machine.
Regards
George
PS See posts in this section re directions and photos for sports hall albergue in Arevalo

Hi George, and a good dinner it was too. The day after Gotarrendura had its trials though, passing through village after village with bars either non-existent or closed. The coffee craving grew progressively until relief at last at Tiñosillos. That said, the walk through the pine forest was a delight.
Don

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Thanks so much Matt. Your help has been invaluable for the preparation of all the rest of us 2017/2018 Levante-grinos Enjoy the rest of your epic journey (but please keep posting too)

 

[pilgr]

I had a pretty cool experience yesterday. As I was making that long, downward approach to G-town with nothing but grass campo and views as far as you can see, I had a large military plane (C130?) come up from behind at very low altitude and startle me from my serene reverie. I waved to the plane with my walking sticks, and the plane waved back with the traditional plane wave!

Today, it is taking the bus back to Hernansancho to make the walk to A-town. I am getting adequately caffinieted beforehand!

 

[JLWV]

Hello Matt, I will follow reading with interest your future posts, as I have also planned for this year walk Levante until Medina, and then go to Benavente (by Sureste), further to Astorga (Plata) and finish to Santiago by Frances.

 

[JLWV]

About the albergue in Gottarendura, and the fact she told you to knock really hard, I remember details.
In fact there are (2015) two albergues at the same housing. In front, street side, is a touristic albergue (for 10, to be paid) and behind, separated by a courtyard, is the pilgrim's one, free (one room with two bunks, 4persons, a bathroom, a kitchen, a washing room with washing machine and dryer, and a drawing room)
Probably you were not the first pilgrim and had to knock really hard to be heard from the rear part...!
Quiet and pleasant albergue, even though the shower was a little bit cold (feed by solar plant, but the weather was very cloudy)
When the 'ayuntamiento' is open, there we get the key and the stamp on the credential.

 

[JLWV]

going from Gotarendura to Arévalo, I meet in the Wood this "cow boy". Not exactly a St James pilgrim, but crossing Spain from Asturias to Malaga by horse.

 

[pilgr]

going from Gotarendura to Arévalo, I meet in the Wood this "cow boy". Not exactly a St James pilgrim, but crossing Spain from Asturias to Malaga by horse.

I feel bad for the horse. That guy is about the size of me! His horse should get the compestella. What was his other horse carrying?

 

[JLWV]

I feel bad for the horse. That guy is about the size of me! His horse should get the compestella. What was his other horse carrying?

I didn't ask. I suppose his luggage, may be some camping gear. I don't know how he manages for accomodations. Buen camino

 

[pilgr]

I am in Medina del Campo tonite. After consulting with @KinkyOne , I am headed to Zamora. He suggested something about maintaining the integrity of the Levante by finishing it. His suggestion about doing this in order to perserve the Sureste for some later camino didn't really resonate with me.

 

[peregrina2000]

I am in Medina del Campo tonite. After consulting with @KinkyOne , I am headed to Zamora. He suggested something about maintaining the integrity of the Levante by finishing it. His suggestion about doing this in order to perserve the Sureste for some later camino didn't really resonate with me.

Well, you are headed to one of the nicest cities in Spain, whether or not you are preserving the Sureste. I think you will love the Sanabres, it's terrific! I bet Kinky also encouraged you to avoid the Benavente-Astorga leg and turn left at Granja de Moreruela. Buen camino, pilgr, hard to believe how far you've come while I've been sitting at home looking at my computer! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[pilgr]

Well, you are headed to one of the nicest cities in Spain, whether or not you are preserving the Sureste. I think you will love the Sanabres, it's terrific! I bet Kinky also encouraged you to avoid the Benavente-Astorga leg and turn left at Granja de Moreruela. Buen camino, pilgr, hard to believe how far you've come while I've been sitting at home looking at my computer! Buen camino, Laurie

I have already done the Vdlp via Sanabres. I agree the Sanabres Way is stunningly beautiful. But 1st, Kinky convinced me on Invierno. 2nd, Kinky suggested I get there via Vdlp to Astorga. Then I would go Astorga to Ponferrada, there to do Invierno.

What city is beautiful, Zamora??? When I did Vdlp, I thought it was fine. But my favorite was Merida. The Roman ruins were amazing. For sports fans like me, I will never forget walking unto the coleseum there! And the still standing aquaducts are hard to beat...

 

[peregrina2000]

Ooohhhh the Invierno. I assume you have our forum guide from the resources section. This year's version was the best team effort yet. I think you'll find that it is all you need .

Can't wait to hear how you find the Invierno, pilgr, since this is the first year it has received official status from the Xunta. Buen camino.

 

[pilgr]

I made it today to the Six Churches town from Medina del Campo. The phone number to the mayor/albergue located at the Ayutimiento is 605 792 807 and it is 3€. The room has heat!

I stayed at the Convent in Medina del Campo. No heat . 10€ Suggested "donation."

 

[KinkyOne]

I made it today to the Six Churches town from Medina del Campo. The phone number to the mayor/albergue located at the Ayutimiento is 605 792 807 and it is 3€. The room has heat!

I stayed at the Convent in Medina del Campo. No heat . 10€ Suggested "donation."

I had a very hearty meal in Bar Brillante next door to Ayuntamiento. Nice owners too. The lady owner even stopped her car by the curb in Nava del Rey and offered me a ride. I turn down the offer but promised to pay a visit later on in their bar. Very pleasant evening talking to them. Extremely friendly prices for the quality of food also!

Nice leg tomorrow to Toro. Another beautiful city. I slept in the convent which is just a few minutes walk along the Camino further on from the town center.

Enjoy, Matt

 

[pilgr]

I ate at Bar Brillante too. Big meal I couldn't finish, for 6€. That heater came in handy last nite.

Toro was a challenge today. Lots of sun! I tried calling the convent but they were full. I ended up at Zamora Pension for 20€. No heater.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi pilgr, almost there! Have you seen our forum discussions and kinky's good pics explaining the way to avoid getting lost tomorrow in the Cottonwood forest, like I did? Buen camino, Laurie.

 

[pilgr]

No, I havent. Does it have something about going through two houses and making a turn? I should be ok with the klm files, right?

 

[pilgr]

Please give me some hints where to look for it!

For the life of me, why is it so difficult to fix these things that are clearly a problem!?!?

 

[peregrina2000]

Look for the pictures kinky posted in this thread.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...id-at-beginning-of-october.43481/#post-472097

Good luck!

 

[pilgr]

Thanks for sending this. I walked Toro to Zamoro today. A bit of a grinde for me. I never saw this mysterious bad signing. Could it have been between Villalbo and Villalazan? That is the only stretch I chose to stick to the carreterra to knock off a few minutes.

 

[gracethepilgrim]

Congratulations Matt - enjoy a day off in Zamora. Lovely albergue and delightful town.

 

[pilgr]

Congratulations Matt - enjoy a day off in Zamora. Lovely albergue and delightful town.

Thanks! After thinking I would crash and burn, I was able to make it. Yes, I am taking Sunday descansar!

 

[KinkyOne]

Could it have been between Villalbo and Villalazan? That is the only stretch I chose to stick to the carreterra to knock off a few minutes.

Exactly on that stretch

You already in Benavente?

 

[pilgr]

Not yet. I had a shoe blow out yesterday. Luckily, I am near Zamora. So I only made it to Montemaur (sic) yesterday. Today was a long day battling blisters with my new shoes. I only had one blister over 900k with my old shoes. I bought some promo hiking shoes at Decathalon in Zamora. I put holes in both of my socks where the heal is !?

We are having some heat in Spain today and I think I got 'overheated' walking under the sun. I made it to a town called B... del Barco and staying in an albergue for 8€. I will play it by ear tomorrow how far I go both from a physical standpoint and shoe-sock standpoint.

 

[pilgr]

Hey @gracethepilgrim ,

I understand you plan to start the Levante in 6 weeks?! That is way exciting! I hope my posts do help. In keeping with today's post theme 'overheating', I was thinking you will be starting the Levante almost in June. I would be remiss if I did not reiterate of how the Levante is the most weather intense of all the Caminos I have done. Even starting March 1, I have gotten a fair amount of VERY hot weather. That means intense heat baking effect. To be honest, I can't imagine starting in June. I can't imagine how Kinky managed. I am sure if you ask @KinkyOne he will give you some healthy insight what you are in store for. Perhaps he can offer some good strategies too. PLEASE be careful

Congratulations Matt - enjoy a day off in Zamora. Lovely albergue and delightful town.