Tips/advice on walking Salvador then Primitivo

[laineylainey]

Well, I am sort of certain that if I am spared next year, I would like to walk from Leon to Oviedo (Salvador?) and then Primitivo to as far as Melide (or before?).
I know from the replies I have already received (with great thanks) about the Primitivo there is a wealth of experience on both Caminos on the forum.
My question is if you have done both or only one (Salvador and/or Primitivo) what one piece of advice or tip would you give me. I will be as usual walking alone.
Thanks again.

 

[peregrina2000]

Only one bit of advice? That's hard for a blabber like me. But I would say think about splitting the mountain segment into two days. That means extending the Salvador into five days with a stop in Poladura de la Tercia and it is just spectacular.

 

[laineylainey]

Only one bit of advice? That's hard for a blabber like me. But I would say think about splitting the mountain segment into two days. That means extending the Salvador into five days with a stop in Poladura de la Tercia and it is just spectacular.

I was hoping you would suggest that! I am giving myself a total of around 12 days to get from Leon to Melide and usually I like an extra "boot-free" day somewhere along the route. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

This is one of the few Caminos whereon I'd urge you to carry a mobile phone. You must book ahead to eat/stay at the B&B at Poladura, and even though phone service is spotty in the most remote stretches, it's good to have that extra degree of safety it affords if something goes wrong.

 

[laineylainey]

This is one of the few Caminos whereon I'd urge you to carry a mobile phone. You must book ahead to eat/stay at the B&B at Poladura, and even though phone service is spotty in the most remote stretches, it's good to have that extra degree of safety it affords if something goes wrong.

Thanks for that advice.

 

[laineylainey]

I was hoping you would suggest that! I am giving myself a total of around 12 days to get from Leon to Melide and usually I like an extra "boot-free" day somewhere along the route. Thanks for the tip.

Have just realised that my 12 day itinerary is not going to get me to Lugo let alone Melide! I think I will take 6 or 7 days for the Salvador which leaves me maybe another 6 or 7 days for the Primitivo. Where do you suggest I aim for on the Primitivo to finish for easy transport back -bus/ train and airport?
Thanks again.

 

[handzondeck2]

Thanks for the advice Rebekah. I'll be walking this route in mid April next year and never walk without a phone in case of emergencies.

 

[handzondeck2]

This is one of the few Caminos whereon I'd urge you to carry a mobile phone. You must book ahead to eat/stay at the B&B at Poladura, and even though phone service is spotty in the most remote stretches, it's good to have that extra degree of safety it affords if something goes wrong.

Sound advice Rebekah. One should always carry a phone in case of emergencies.

 

[peregrina2000]

Have just realised that my 12 day itinerary is not going to get me to Lugo let alone Melide! I think I will take 6 or 7 days for the Salvador which leaves me maybe another 6 or 7 days for the Primitivo. Where do you suggest I aim for on the Primitivo to finish for easy transport back -bus/ train and airport?
Thanks again.

Hi, laineylainey, Which is your departure airport? And what time will your flight be? That could make a difference in terms of ease of transportation. I note that you say you like a "boots off" day, so Oviedo is my hands down recommendation.

7 days on the Salvador seems like a lot if you are an average walker, but there are lots of pretty places to stop. With 7 days walking from Oviedo, you could probably make it over the Hospitales route and on to Grandas de Salime. If you don't make it over Hospitales, Pola de Allande has buses to Oviedo, but not terribly frequently. Same for Grandas. It won't be as easy as it would be to hop on a bus on the Frances, but there is a solid public transportation infrastructure, but the journey may take longer and transfers won't be as easy. Buen camino.

 

[James Pierson]

Hi, laineylainey, Which is your departure airport? And what time will your flight be? That could make a difference in terms of ease of transportation. I note that you say you like a "boots off" day, so Oviedo is my hands down recommendation.

7 days on the Salvador seems like a lot if you are an average walker, but there are lots of pretty places to stop. With 7 days walking from Oviedo, you could probably make it over the Hospitales route and on to Grandas de Salime. If you don't make it over Hospitales, Pola de Allande has buses to Oviedo, but not terribly frequently. Same for Grandas. It won't be as easy as it would be to hop on a bus on the Frances, but there is a solid public transportation infrastructure, but the journey may take longer and transfers won't be as easy. Buen camino.

 

[James Pierson]

Am repairing leg muscle...comments on the Salvador in November or December?

 

[KinkyOne]

Am repairing leg muscle...comments on the Salvador in November or December?

Wet, maybe snow, muddy, foggy, short days, cold, ughhhh - personally wouldn't like that. This summer I had much rain and it wasn't ... well, ... you get the picture
But it's very beautiful Camino!!!

Ultreia!

 

[camino07]

I was hoping you would suggest that! I am giving myself a total of around 12 days to get from Leon to Melide and usually I like an extra "boot-free" day somewhere along the route. Thanks for the tip.

I returned recently and took 6 days on the Salvador and 12 day Primitivo to Melide(incl. rest day in Lugo)
my stops on the Salvador were;
1..la Robla- albergue
2...Poladura -casa
3..Pajares-albergue
4..Pola de Lena-Albergue
5..Mieres-hostal Pachin
6..Oviedo-Hostal Arcos (no shower pressure 3rd floor)

 

[laineylainey]

Hi, laineylainey, Which is your departure airport? And what time will your flight be? That could make a difference in terms of ease of transportation. I note that you say you like a "boots off" day, so Oviedo is my hands down recommendation.

7 days on the Salvador seems like a lot if you are an average walker, but there are lots of pretty places to stop. With 7 days walking from Oviedo, you could probably make it over the Hospitales route and on to Grandas de Salime. If you don't make it over Hospitales, Pola de Allande has buses to Oviedo, but not terribly frequently. Same for Grandas. It won't be as easy as it would be to hop on a bus on the Frances, but there is a solid public transportation infrastructure, but the journey may take longer and transfers won't be as easy. Buen camino.

Sorry somehow I missed your post! Well the plan is flying into Madrid, it's an afternoon flight from Dublin so I will stay In Madrid that night which will be exciting and then get the train to Leon the next day.
I might rethink the 7 days on the Salvador?
I was thinking, Robla, Buiza, Poladura, Pajares, Campomanes, Mieres, Ovieda? What would you suggest based on your experience. Yes, I am fairly fit but don't want to overdo it?
Yes, I will stay an extra day In Oviedo before carrying on the Primitivo. I do like an extra day just to sightsee and relax!!
I am now thinking 9 walking days from Oviedo to Lugo - is that doable? Venta de Escamplero, Cornellana,Bodenaya,Campiello,Berduceo,Grandas de Salime,Padron,O'Cadavo, Lugo.
What do you think?
Sorry for asking more questions, but your advice so far has been invaluable!!
Elaine

 

[laineylainey]

I returned recently and took 6 days on the Salvador and 12 day Primitivo to Melide(incl. rest day in Lugo)
my stops on the Salvador were;
1..la Robla- albergue
2...Poladura -casa
3..Pajares-albergue
4..Pola de Lena-Albergue
5..Mieres-hostal Pachin
6..Oviedo-Hostal Arcos (no shower pressure 3rd floor)

Hi there, thanks for that. Would you mind telling me how many days you took to walk from Oviedo to Lugo and your stops?
Thanks a lot.
Elaine

 

[camino07]

Hi there, thanks for that. Would you mind telling me how many days you took to walk from Oviedo to Lugo and your stops?
Thanks a lot.
Elaine

Hi Elaine, Here goes..
1...Grado..new albergue,excellent
2..Salas..Albergue Miguel in plaza..Quaint but great location
3...Tineo..Hotel Palacia 4 star Albergue in basement..fantastic!
4..Campiello...Casa Ricardo,private room but good albergue downstairs. Meals at Herminias
5..Berducedo..albergue Casa Antigua( would probably choose new Albergue Pimitivo if I returned)
6...Grandas de Salime..Casa Sanchez..rustic ,lovely
7..a Fonsagrada..new Albergue Cantabrico..excellent,behind church
8..Cadavo..Hotel Modeno for treat but Albergue looked ok
9...Lugo.. Big Fiesta on so all booked up .rest day hotel Mendez Nunez. huge treat!!
Hope this helps

 

[laineylainey]

Thanks so much for that. My plan is different to yours - Oviedo to Venta de Escamplero then on to Cornellana, Bodenaya, then following your route. Think I will have another look, especially as you have been kind enough to give your hostals and the one in Tineo sounds good?
Thanks again. Did you find the route easy enough?
Elaine

 

[camino07]

Thanks so much for that. My plan is different to yours - Oviedo to Venta de Escamplero then on to Cornellana, Bodenaya, then following your route. Think I will have another look, especially as you have been kind enough to give your hostals and the one in Tineo sounds good?
Thanks again. Did you find the route easy enough?
Elaine

Certainly not easy. Huge hills every day but beautiful and great Camino atmosphere .

 

[peregrina2000]

Sorry somehow I missed your post! Well the plan is flying into Madrid, it's an afternoon flight from Dublin so I will stay In Madrid that night which will be exciting and then get the train to Leon the next day.
I might rethink the 7 days on the Salvador?
I was thinking, Robla, Buiza, Poladura, Pajares, Campomanes, Mieres, Ovieda? What would you suggest based on your experience. Yes, I am fairly fit but don't want to overdo it?
Yes, I will stay an extra day In Oviedo before carrying on the Primitivo. I do like an extra day just to sightsee and relax!!
I am now thinking 9 walking days from Oviedo to Lugo - is that doable? Venta de Escamplero, Cornellana,Bodenaya,Campiello,Berduceo,Grandas de Salime,Padron,O'Cadavo, Lugo.
What do you think?
Sorry for asking more questions, but your advice so far has been invaluable!!
Elaine

Hi Elaine,
I think you will find Robla to Buiza is a really short day. And it doesn't even really get you into the mountains. I think most people walk La Robla to Poladura without huge issues, at least if the weather is not horrendous. The weather is always an issue to be mindful of and having some extra days in your pocket to deal with unexpectedly short days is a good thing.

Pajares to Campomanes (I would actually recommend Benduenos a few kms before) is another really short day, so you would still have plenty of wiggle room.

I personally think Grado is a better first days choice than Escamplero. The albergue that opened this year has made it kind of a bottleneck but there are private options. But you may have a reason for wanting to stop in Escamplero -- I know some people take a trip up to the Naranco sites on their way out of town and then continue on, making Escamplero a more do-able first day. But if you have seen those places already (and I will say they are not to be missed IMO), walking to Grado may make more sense.

Good luck with your planning! So many choices. The "albergue" in Tineo is actually a four star hotel spin-off and is probably the most luxurious albergue I've ever stayed in. Little pods with two bunks, incredibly high quality showers, all in all a very nice place. But its one main drawback is that it leaves you badly placed for a walk over Hospitales. Tineo to Campiello/Borres would be a very short day, in the 14 km range, I think, and Tineo to Berducedo probably beyond the reach of most mere mortals. So there are tough choices to be made. One way to do it is just wait to see what your group is planning to do, I'm sure you will have fallen in with some. I had plans to walk Hospitales this year, but was with a group that wanted to stick with the POla de Allande route and I didn't want to leave them, so I had a night of luxury in Tineo! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[laineylainey]

Laurie thank you so much for the advice, I do think I need to rethink my plans and look at some of your suggestions. That´s the wonderful thing about asking people who have already walked a route! Yes I think I was thinking it looked a bit hilly when having the initial shorter days (Robla to Buiza and Buiza to Poladura).
When you suggest Grado instead would there still be time to see the Naranco sites or would that add a lot more to the day´s walk?

Also did you have any problems with getting accommodation at any of the stages?

Thanks again
Elaine

 

[NualaOC]

Hi Elaine, Here goes..
1...Grado..new albergue,excellent
2..Salas..Albergue Miguel in plaza..Quaint but great location
3...Tineo..Hotel Palacia 4 star Albergue in basement..fantastic!
4..Campiello...Casa Ricardo,private room but good albergue downstairs. Meals at Herminias
5..Berducedo..albergue Casa Antigua( would probably choose new Albergue Pimitivo if I returned)
6...Grandas de Salime..Casa Sanchez..rustic ,lovely
7..a Fonsagrada..new Albergue Cantabrico..excellent,behind church
8..Cadavo..Hotel Modeno for treat but Albergue looked ok
9...Lugo.. Big Fiesta on so all booked up .rest day hotel Mendez Nunez. huge treat!!
Hope this helps

@camino07 - we followed exactly the same stages from Oviedo to Lugo and stayed in some of the same albergues. We also had a treat-night at Hotel Mendez Nunez during the fiesta! I agree with your comment about Berducedo - I'd also choose the new Albergue Primitivo next time. We had dinner there and really liked the place.

@laineylainey - we had no problem with accommodation on the Primitivo. There were no bed races and no need to book ahead - that was one of the many things we loved about this Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Laurie thank you so much for the advice, I do think I need to rethink my plans and look at some of your suggestions. That´s the wonderful thing about asking people who have already walked a route! Yes I think I was thinking it looked a bit hilly when having the initial shorter days (Robla to Buiza and Buiza to Poladura).
When you suggest Grado instead would there still be time to see the Naranco sites or would that add a lot more to the day´s walk?

Also did you have any problems with getting accommodation at any of the stages?

Thanks again
Elaine

Hi, Elaine,
I think that visiting the Naranco sites on the way to Grado would be a long day, in no small part because the places don't open till 10 am. But that of course depends on you. And if you are walking during "busy season," you can be sure that you will arrive in Grado after the albergue is full if you add in that visit. I have visited the Naranco sites every time I walk the Primitivo, but since I love Oviedo so much, it just gives me an excuse to spend a night or two there. The walk up to the churches is pleasant and short, and you can easily still have a lot of time left in Oviedo after a walk up, a visit, and a walk back.

I've never had a problem with accommodation on either the Salvador or the Primitivo. I did make a reservation in the Casa Rural in Poladura, mainly to be sure They knew I wanted to eat dinner there. There have been lots of beds added in the last few years. Berducedo used to be the real bottleneck and now it seems to have plenty of places. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I agree with Laurie, a first day to Esclampero makes little sense unless you are viaiting the Naranco sites or getting over jet lag. This being said, if you want to stay there the albergue is basic but not the horror some describe.

If you decide to stay in Esclampero, you have ro pick up the key at the restaurant (with rooms available) as you enter the village. Keep in mind it is closed on Wednesday, at least last hear when I walked, and I have no idea if someone else gives the key out.

Also, a wonderful place to stay after that would be San Juan de Villapanada, with fabulous views and an hospitalero who has been at this for over 20 years, all on a voluntary basis. One of my favourite spots. From there Bodeyana is most people's next stop. Domingo, the hopsi, will call David, and reserve beds for those who want to stay with him the next day.

Why not visit the Naranco sites as part of your day off in Oviedo. Take the bus there from calle Uria or across from the tourism office kiosk. Ask which one ot is if you are using a dated guide book as I beleive is was number 1o bit is now the 1A or something. It's a 7 minute bus ride up a super steep and windong road.

Laurie mentions an albergue in Tineo that is super, and she is right, but it is not "the" albergue as there are two others, including the volunteer ru Mater Christie where I stayed. The one Laurie refers to is in the luxury hotel Palacio de Meras.

Rats! These posts make me wish I was there now! Love thos route.

 

[laineylainey]

Hi, Elaine,
I think that visiting the Naranco sites on the way to Grado would be a long day, in no small part because the places don't open till 10 am. But that of course depends on you. And if you are walking during "busy season," you can be sure that you will arrive in Grado after the albergue is full if you add in that visit. I have visited the Naranco sites every time I walk the Primitivo, but since I love Oviedo so much, it just gives me an excuse to spend a night or two there. The walk up to the churches is pleasant and short, and you can easily still have a lot of time left in Oviedo after a walk up, a visit, and a walk back.

I've never had a problem with accommodation on either the Salvador or the Primitivo. I did make a reservation in the Casa Rural in Poladura, mainly to be sure They knew I wanted to eat dinner there. There have been lots of beds added in the last few years. Berducedo used to be the real bottleneck and now it seems to have plenty of places. Buen camino, Laurie

I agree with Laurie, a first day to Esclampero makes little sense unless you are viaiting the Naranco sites or getting over jet lag. This being said, if you want to stay there the albergue is basic but not the horror some describe.

If you decide to stay in Esclampero, you have ro pick up the key at the restaurant (with rooms available) as you enter the village. Keep in mind it is closed on Wednesday, at least last hear when I walked, and I have no idea if someone else gives the key out.

Also, a wonderful place to stay after that would be San Juan de Villapanada, with fabulous views and an hospitalero who has been at this for over 20 years, all on a voluntary basis. One of my favourite spots. From there Bodeyana is most people's next stop. Domingo, the hopsi, will call David, and reserve beds for those who want to stay with him the next day.

Why not visit the Naranco sites as part of your day off in Oviedo. Take the bus there from calle Uria or across from the tourism office kiosk. Ask which one ot is if you are using a dated guide book as I beleive is was number 1o bit is now the 1A or something. It's a 7 minute bus ride up a super steep and windong road.

Laurie mentions an albergue in Tineo that is super, and she is right, but it is not "the" albergue as there are two others, including the volunteer ru Mater Christie where I stayed. The one Laurie refers to is in the luxury hotel Palacio de Meras.

Rats! These posts make me wish I was there now! Love thos route.

I can´t wait now to plan this trip and many thanks for all the great suggestions and information. It certainly seems to be a firm favourite with a lot of people!

 

[laineylainey]

I agree with Laurie, a first day to Esclampero makes little sense unless you are viaiting the Naranco sites or getting over jet lag. This being said, if you want to stay there the albergue is basic but not the horror some describe.

If you decide to stay in Esclampero, you have ro pick up the key at the restaurant (with rooms available) as you enter the village. Keep in mind it is closed on Wednesday, at least last hear when I walked, and I have no idea if someone else gives the key out.

Also, a wonderful place to stay after that would be San Juan de Villapanada, with fabulous views and an hospitalero who has been at this for over 20 years, all on a voluntary basis. One of my favourite spots. From there Bodeyana is most people's next stop. Domingo, the hopsi, will call David, and reserve beds for those who want to stay with him the next day.

Why not visit the Naranco sites as part of your day off in Oviedo. Take the bus there from calle Uria or across from the tourism office kiosk. Ask which one ot is if you are using a dated guide book as I beleive is was number 1o bit is now the 1A or something. It's a 7 minute bus ride up a super steep and windong road.

Laurie mentions an albergue in Tineo that is super, and she is right, but it is not "the" albergue as there are two others, including the volunteer ru Mater Christie where I stayed. The one Laurie refers to is in the luxury hotel Palacio de Meras.

Rats! These posts make me wish I was there now! Love thos route.

No hopefully no jetlag coming from Dublin! Thanks for the advice about visiting the Naranco sites on my day in Oviedo, that sounds a plan. Thanks again, sounds as though you loved it.

 

[laineylainey]

@camino07 - we followed exactly the same stages from Oviedo to Lugo and stayed in some of the same albergues. We also had a treat-night at Hotel Mendez Nunez during the fiesta! I agree with your comment about Berducedo - I'd also choose the new Albergue Primitivo next time. We had dinner there and really liked the place.

@laineylainey - we had no problem with accommodation on the Primitivo. There were no bed races and no need to book ahead - that was one of the many things we loved about this Camino.

Thanks for that!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I walked up to see the churches at Naranco and the Capilla del Carmen as part of my "free day" in Oviedo. Then I left Oviedo quite early, recovering that ground in the dawn, so my stops were
1. Cornellana (monastery)
2. Bodenaya (Alex's place, now ?David's)
3. Campiello (Herminina)
4. Berducedo (at the casa rural, I loved my room there)
5. Castro (youth hostal, which was good, but there's a hotel I'd have gone to if I'd known it was there before I checked in at the hostal)
6. Fonsagrada (a pension)
7. Lugo (Hotel Mendez Nunez---best hotel staff in Spain in my experience)
9. San Roman (albergue O candida)
10. Arzua

 

[peregrina2000]

I walked up to see the churches at Naranco and the Capilla del Carmen as part of my "free day" in Oviedo. Then I left Oviedo quite early, recovering that ground in the dawn, so my stops were
1. Cornellana (monastery)
2. Bodenaya (Alex's place, now ?David's)
3. Campiello (Herminina)
4. Berducedo (at the casa rural, I loved my room there)
5. Castro (youth hostal, which was good, but there's a hotel I'd have gone to if I'd known it was there before I checked in at the hostal)
6. Fonsagrada (a pension)
7. Lugo (Hotel Mendez Nunez---best hotel staff in Spain in my experience)
9. San Roman (albergue O candida)
10. Arzua

Hi sparrow, does your comment about "recovering that ground in the dawn" mean that you went back up to Naranco when leaving Oviedo on the Primitivo? If so you had one heck of a very long day. The day to Cornellana is a long one (around 32?) but it would be pushing 40 with a Naranco detour I think.

And on my first Primitivo I followed your stages too, but now that there are two great options in AFerreira (A Nave and Albergue Ponte Ferreira), I would highly recommend going on the few kms past San Roman to Ponte Ferreira. It also makes it easy to continue on to Boente on the next day to avoid the camino crunch as you join the Frances in Melide.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

Hi sparrow, does your comment about "recovering that ground in the dawn" mean that you went back up to Naranco when leaving Oviedo on the Primitivo? If so you had one heck of a very long day. The day to Cornellana is a long one (around 32?) but it would be pushing 40 with a Naranco detour I think.

And on my first Primitivo I followed your stages too, but now that there are two great options in AFerreira (A Nave and Albergue Ponte Ferreira), I would highly recommend going on the few kms past San Roman to Ponte Ferreira. It also makes it easy to continue on to Boente on the next day to avoid the camino crunch as you join the Frances in Melide.

it was a long day, but by the time I left Oviedo I'd been walking for six or seven weeks, so sometimes walked further than I'd planed just because I wasn't tired yet and it was still early in the day. I would have skipped Narnaco but since I knew that way was afraid I'd get lost trying to walk a different one out of oviedo...as it was I'd gotten lost four times in Oviedo the day before. Even so, I didn't think it was an impossible walk, especially if someone is already used to walking. I would have stopped in castroverde, but the pension(?) was full, and the albergue I'd been told was built in castroverde wasn't done yet.
edit: I agree, the place in Ponte Ferreira looked worth the walk past San Roman...there were a lot of places I thought "shoot, should have gone further"...although after my finding myself without a bed in castroverde and needing to walk to Lugo, I was a bit hesitant to pass up a bed in the hand

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I also think some of what determines our stops are what we want out of it, not just the km we walk between them. I wanted to sleep in a crumbling monastery, and it was only 11 or so km past Grado, so either stop in escampalero (really short day out of Oviedo) or have a really short day out of Grado, or a longer day out of Oviedo. Also, I wanted to stop at Alex's, so that was another reason to stay in Cornellana. I think if you want to stay in those two albergues, there is either going to be a long day or a short one in there somewhere. One other way to handle it, I think, (and perhaps why someone mentioned staying in Escampalero) would be taking a half day in Oviedo for sightseeing, seeing naranco, etc then stop in escampalero and continue from there.

 

[laineylainey]

I am really grateful to read all the comments about where to stop and thinking about the different accommodation options. This trip is proving the most interesting to plan. Still want to consider the Salvador and then the Primitivo. Have taken on board Lauri's advice and cut the Salvador down to 6 days doing La Buiza to Poladura as one day.
Another question re perhaps booking ahead on the day or day before for accommodation (apologies to anyone if this offends!). Is mobile phone cover okay on the Salvador and Primitivo? Or where people who mention booking doing so in towns where there was a phone kiosk/café etc?

 

[laineylainey]

Oops - meant on the Salvador - La Robla to Poladura as one day not my original 2 days La Robla to Buiza then Buiza to Poladura -sorry Laurie!
Putting it down to a senior moment!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Booking ahead? See how busy the routes are when you get there. On the Salvador you might find "waves" of people starting on the weekend as it is mostly walled by Spaniard who take a bit of time off to walk it, and yes, in some cases, the very small albergues of 4 or 6 beds will be filled. But not all will allow reservations I'm sure: check on Esroski.

Also, in some places you must book your meal ahead.

Coverage on the Primitivo was fine when not on the Hospitales route. And being a slow walker I booked where I could. But it turn out that since my distance covered was half of others, while I stopped around 4 pm many waltzed in at 8 pm!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

the only place my phone didn't work was on the Hospitales (I was using I think a Lebara ? sim) but I've read others had coverage so it may vary with providers.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oops - meant on the Salvador - La Robla to Poladura as one day not my original 2 days La Robla to Buiza then Buiza to Poladura -sorry Laurie!
Putting it down to a senior moment!

So can you give us a list of the stages as you currently have them sketched out? Seeing the "whole" might give us s better sense of how things balance out over the days. And it's good to have an extra day or two in your pocket for whatever the camino might throw your way.

I had a phone but am not sure about coverage in the mountains. SmallestSparrow's comment is what I would plan for -- maybe there will be coverage, but maybe there won't! (in terms of coverage, I had Vodaphone this year. Every year in the past I had Movistar. I think Movistar has better coverage, but there is no doubt that hands down Vodaphone people working in the stores are far more helpful and kind than the people I have had the misfortune of dealing with on an annual basis from Movistar). Buen camino, Laurie

 

[laineylainey]

Booking ahead? See how busy the routes are when you get there. On the Salvador you might find "waves" of people starting on the weekend as it is mostly walled by Spaniard who take a bit of time off to walk it, and yes, in some cases, the very small albergues of 4 or 6 beds will be filled. But not all will allow reservations I'm sure: check on Esroski.

Also, in some places you must book your meal ahead.

Coverage on the Primitivo was fine when not on the Hospitales route. And being a slow walker I booked where I could. But it turn out that since my distance covered was half of others, while I stopped around 4 pm many waltzed in at 8 pm!

Thanks for that, I hadn't considered the local "wave" of walkers. And thanks for the pointer on Esroski. Where did you stay on the Salvador?

 

[laineylainey]

So can you give us a list of the stages as you currently have them sketched out? Seeing the "whole" might give us s better sense of how things balance out over the days. And it's good to have an extra day or two in your pocket for whatever the camino might throw your way.

I had a phone but am not sure about coverage in the mountains. SmallestSparrow's comment is what I would plan for -- maybe there will be coverage, but maybe there won't! (in terms of coverage, I had Vodaphone this year. Every year in the past I had Movistar. I think Movistar has better coverage, but there is no doubt that hands down Vodaphone people working in the stores are far more helpful and kind than the people I have had the misfortune of dealing with on an annual basis from Movistar). Buen camino, Laurie

Stages are;
Leon, Roba, Poladura, Pajares, Campomares (or Benduenos?),Mieres, Oviedo (2 days), Grado, Salas, Tineo, Campiello, Berducelo, Grandas de Salime, Padron, O'Cadava, Lugo.
The Primitivo I feel very comfortable with re accommodation options, not so sure about the Salvador.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I did not walk the Salvador, just the Primitivo. But I posted possible stages for 7 days on the Salvador last week, taking into account an albergue closed at this time of the hear and lack of heating in another, because I was thinking of heading off later this month.

 

[peregrina2000]

Stages are;
Leon, Roba, Poladura, Pajares, Campomares (or Benduenos?),Mieres, Oviedo (2 days), Grado, Salas, Tineo, Campiello, Berducelo, Grandas de Salime, Padron, O'Cadava, Lugo.
The Primitivo I feel very comfortable with re accommodation options, not so sure about the Salvador.

Hi, Elaine,
I think those are all quite do-able for someone used to walking caminos as you are. Accommodations on the Salvador are good. Here's what I would recommend:

La Robla -- municipal albergue at the end of town on the Camino. Quite fine.
Poladura -- either the albergue (which is basic) or you can splurge and stay at the quite comfortable Posada del Embrujo. I can't remember what the room price was but I was quite happy to pay it as we had a chilly wet day. Email ahead or call.
Pajares -- albergue has two bedrooms with 14 (?) beds (in bunks). The hospitalera Marisa is very kind and either makes a meal or doesn't depending on factors I have not been able to identify. There is a bar up on the highway and the young couple running it will serve you a meal at just about any time, so long as you ask nicely. There is also, I believe, a private Casa Rural in Pajares but I haven't stayed there and don't know anything about it.
Benduenos would be Sandra's lovely albergue, closed till March. Very highly recommended. Donativo and she is a good cook to boot! Campomanes has a pension but I have never stayed there. I would suggest advance booking. There are not many places to stay in that area and sometimes workers fill up these small places where they are shipped to a town on a particular construction or highway project. I think Ender's guide has name and numbers.
Mieres has a lot of options, I stayed in a pension that was just fine. There are fancier hotels as well.
In Oviedo others have recommended La Peregrina, which has albergue-type accommodations but is basically a hostal. Great location. When I go to Oviedo, I tend to check out booking.com at the last minute and usually wind up with a good price on something central and *** or ****. This past summer I was on the Gascona in a **** that cost me about 40 euros.

Though the traffic on the Salvador is increasing, the accommodation options are not expanding as much as they have, say, on the Primitivo. But I think you will have a roof over your head and a clean mattress under your body every night! Buen camino, Laurie.

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

in Oviedo I liked the AC Oviedo Forum Hotel. It's on the NW corner of town, near the train station. It's a Marriot associated hotel, so completely nonsmoking, the staff was excellent, and it's close to the route for Naranco.
have I mentioned how envious I am...this is my teeth clenched with envy emoticon

 

[laineylainey]

Hi, Elaine,
I think those are all quite do-able for someone used to walking caminos as you are. Accommodations on the Salvador are good. Here's what I would recommend:

La Robla -- municipal albergue at the end of town on the Camino. Quite fine.
Poladura -- either the albergue (which is basic) or you can splurge and stay at the quite comfortable Posada del Embrujo. I can't remember what the room price was but I was quite happy to pay it as we had a chilly wet day. Email ahead or call.
Pajares -- albergue has two bedrooms with 14 (?) beds (in bunks). The hospitalera Marisa is very kind and either makes a meal or doesn't depending on factors I have not been able to identify. There is a bar up on the highway and the young couple running it will serve you a meal at just about any time, so long as you ask nicely. There is also, I believe, a private Casa Rural in Pajares but I haven't stayed there and don't know anything about it.
Benduenos would be Sandra's lovely albergue, closed till March. Very highly recommended. Donativo and she is a good cook to boot! Campomanes has a pension but I have never stayed there. I would suggest advance booking. There are not many places to stay in that area and sometimes workers fill up these small places where they are shipped to a town on a particular construction or highway project. I think Ender's guide has name and numbers.
Mieres has a lot of options, I stayed in a pension that was just fine. There are fancier hotels as well.
In Oviedo others have recommended La Peregrina, which has albergue-type accommodations but is basically a hostal. Great location. When I go to Oviedo, I tend to check out booking.com at the last minute and usually wind up with a good price on something central and *** or ****. This past summer I was on the Gascona in a **** that cost me about 40 euros.

Though the traffic on the Salvador is increasing, the accommodation options are not expanding as much as they have, say, on the Primitivo. But I think you will have a roof over your head and a clean mattress under your body every night! Buen camino, Laurie.

Thanks Laurie

 

[laineylainey]

I did not walk the Salvador, just the Primitivo. But I posted possible stages for 7 days on the Salvador last week, taking into account an albergue closed at this time of the hear and lack of heating in another, because I was thinking of heading off later this month.

Would be good to hear how you get on?

 

[laineylainey]

in Oviedo I liked the AC Oviedo Forum Hotel. It's on the NW corner of town, near the train station. It's a Marriot associated hotel, so completely nonsmoking, the staff was excellent, and it's close to the route for Naranco.
have I mentioned how envious I am...this is my teeth clenched with envy emoticon

I just love your reply!!

 

[Smallest_Sparrow]

I just love your reply!!

I realized when I wrote about the AC that that may be part of the reason it didn't feel like such a slog to get to the churches in Naranco...rather than the albergue (which I recall being more to the east side of town) I was staying in this very non-pilgrim like place about 2km from the churches. which didn't keep me from getting lost once I was at the top of all the stairs that I had to climb past the train station...and once again coming back down, just for good measure.
my excuse then was I was walking opposite of the arrows, and I"m sticking with that

 

[laineylainey]

I think the Salvador and Primitivo must be way up there on the " Camino Bucket list" judging by the responses to me asking for advice! It just seems like anyone who has done either or both just loved doing it/them.
When I started to think about the Primitivo and then Laurie (Bless you!) suggested throwing in the Salvador as a "warm-up", I got a bit - "OMG - you might have to think again girl!" But it seems to me that these are routes that people have walked and would gladly walk again given the chance and for that reason I just can't wait - but must obviously because Sept next year is a couple of months away, but less than 12!

 

[KinkyOne]

Pajares -- albergue has two bedrooms with 14 (?) beds (in bunks). The hospitalera Marisa is very kind and either makes a meal or doesn't depending on factors I have not been able to identify. There is a bar up on the highway and the young couple running it will serve you a meal at just about any time, so long as you ask nicely. There is also, I believe, a private Casa Rural in Pajares but I haven't stayed there and don't know anything about it.

I think that's the same place in Pajares, the bar up on the road and acommodation. Or maybe there's one other place too?
In albergue is vending machine. Marisa might not cook the day you are there but will sell some basic food. The kitchen is locked though.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think that's the same place in Pajares, the bar up on the road and acommodation. Or maybe there's one other place too?
In albergue is vending machine. Marisa might not cook the day you are there but will sell some basic food. The kitchen is locked though.

Well, I think Gunnar stayed in a casa rural and it may be the Posada Real de Pajares. And btw, as I was searching to find his post on this topic, I came across the posting of the Radio Buen Camino on the Salvador. It is very good and will whet your appetite even more! https://www.caminodesantiago.me/com...-on-el-salvador-in-7-parts.23732/#post-191124

Just one last thing, Kinky. The hospitalera told me that the couple that runs the bar and has rooms above is kind of erratic about when they will rent out rooms. When we were there, I think @koilife and his son went to see if they could stay there and were told it was full. Marisa later told me there was no one staying there and that the couple frequently just decides they don't feel like doing the work and would rather leave the rooms empty. I don't know if that's true, but that is what I heard from her.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[KinkyOne]

Welcome info for future Salvador-ians, Laurie.
I've found the albergue and Marisa very nice and especially enjoyed the view from the dinning room in the morning when finally the sky cleared

 

[camino07]

I think that's the same place in Pajares, the bar up on the road and acommodation. Or maybe there's one other place too?
In albergue is vending machine. Marisa might not cook the day you are there but will sell some basic food. The kitchen is locked though.

Marisa was wonderful to us and actually cooked a big late lunch and then dinner at 8.30. She also cooked a dinner for a German couple who were staying in private rooms as there was no food,the bar was closed due to vacations of staff. Beware that in late September bar/restaurant owners may go on holiday.

 

[laineylainey]

Has anyone stopped in Pola de Gordón? I am just remembering the León urban sprawl ) and on one of the guides I have it suggests a no. 12 bus from León to Carbajal de la legua. That cuts 8k off the morning walk out of the city which means I could consider (or would it be too much?) walking on to PdG?
I would still want to walk to Pajares the next day and that would only be about 14K?

 

[Angelo]

Great! After reading all the interesting posts on this thread, I have changed my mind about walking the CF from Sahagun to SdC after I complete the Camino de Madrid in April. I will walk Camino del Salvador and Primitivo from Leon instead!
Thanks to all for the useful information that made planning my stages easy.

 

[jpflavin1]

Has anyone stopped in Pola de Gordón? I am just remembering the León urban sprawl ) and on one of the guides I have it suggests a no. 12 bus from León to Carbajal de la legua. That cuts 8k off the morning walk out of the city which means I could consider (or would it be too much?) walking on to PdG?
I would still want to walk to Pajares the next day and that would only be about 14K?

Laineylainey:

I have never stopped in PdG other than to buy fruit at an open market. The 8k out of Leon is a very easy walk. I would not skip it. There is an alternate along the river. PdG to Pjares is a lot further than 14 km's (26 km's).

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[Magwood]

Great! After reading all the interesting posts on this thread, I have changed my mind about walking the CF from Sahagun to SdC after I complete the Camino de Madrid in April. I will walk Camino del Salvador and Primitivo from Leon instead!
Thanks to all for the useful information that made planning my stages easy.

What date are you setting off? I shall start walking from Madrid on 23 or 24 April.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Great! After reading all the interesting posts on this thread, I have changed my mind about walking the CF from Sahagun to SdC after I complete the Camino de Madrid in April. I will walk Camino del Salvador and Primitivo from Leon instead!
Thanks to all for the useful information that made planning my stages easy.

SOmeone just posted a nice video of the salvador on the Salvador's FB page.

 

[laineylainey]

Great! After reading all the interesting posts on this thread, I have changed my mind about walking the CF from Sahagun to SdC after I complete the Camino de Madrid in April. I will walk Camino del Salvador and Primitivo from Leon instead!
Thanks to all for the useful information that made planning my stages easy.

Look forward to hearing about your trip. I hope to walk the Salvador and Primitivo in Sept.
Good Luck!

 

[laineylainey]

Laineylainey:

I have never stopped in PdG other than to buy fruit at an open market. The 8k out of Leon is a very easy walk. I would not skip it. There is an alternate along the river. PdG to Pjares is a lot further than 14 km's (26 km's).

Ultreya,
Joe

Thanks Joe. Back to the "drawing/walking board"!

 

[Angelo]

What date are you setting off? I shall start walking from Madrid on 23 or 24 April.

Hi Magwood I will start on 3rd of April and plan to reach Sahagun by the 16th-17th.

 

[peregrina2000]

I have stayed twice in Pola de Gordon. It is a long-ish but for me was a very doable day from Leon. There is a pension and also a small hotel, stores and restaurants. If you plan to walk the Salvador in four days, these are the most equal stages ; Leon to Pola de Gordon - Pajares - Pola de Lena - Oviedo.

I agree with Joe in not wanting to take a bus out of Leon, but that's just because of what feels good to me. Most recently, this past summer, I walked out of Leon and took the river walk that Joe mentions for the first 8 or 9 kms. It was lovely -- no asphalt, shade, no suburban construction.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Earthkeeper]

Look forward to hearing about your trip. I hope to walk the Salvador and Primitivo in Sept.
Good Luck!

Hola! I am new around here, but found your thread because I am planning to do the same two caminos, in September too, (perhaps starting from Burgos on the CF): Salvador, Primitivo, and getting to Santiago de Compostela for 27 September.
Thanks to all the old hands for their amazing advice. I am starting to scribble notes and weigh options.
Hasta pronto

 

[Davey Boyd]

Hola! I am new around here, but found your thread because I am planning to do the same two caminos, in September too, (perhaps starting from Burgos on the CF): Salvador, Primitivo, and getting to Santiago de Compostela for 27 September.
Thanks to all the old hands for their amazing advice. I am starting to scribble notes and weigh options.
Hasta pronto

Welcome to the forum Earthkeeper! You won't be disappointed with either the San Salvador or Primitivo! Good idea to start in Burgos too. First you will gain some fitness before heading up the Salvador, and after the Meseta you will be ready for those mountains!

Buen Camino
Davey

 

[laineylainey]

Hi Earthkeeper, welcome and yes I agree the advice you get on this forum is just great!
All being well, I will be leaving Leon on the Salvador on the 13th Sept to Oviedo and then Primitivo to Lugo. Sounds as though I will be a couple of days behind you as I hope to get to Santiago on the 30th.
Don't forget if you haven't already downloaded them the great guides to both the Salvador (including Ender's guide in English) and the Primitivo (compiled by Liz Brandt) - all as resources on this forum. Brilliant!
Good luck!