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Quinta da Burra - Porto de Muge - a magical place to stay

Ricokiwi

New Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Walked the Camino Portuguese July - Aug 2017 (Lisbon to Santiago)
A logical place to start any accommodation review is with the building and the amenities it provides but with Quinta da Burra I have to start with the owner Paula, who is the heart and soul of this establishment. For without her it would be a nice place to rest your head after a long day of walking but with Paula involved it becomes a home away from home, which is of great comfort to a weary traveller.

We had been recommended this Quinta by our fellow Camino walkers (our young Austrian friends) who were a day ahead of us & sang its praises. We turned up to a chorus of barking dogs behind a large wall and wooden door that wouldn't have looked out of place at the entrance to a small castle.

IMG_5005.JPG

We rang the bell with a little trepidation given the commotion we were registering on the other side but that soon fell away when Paula led us inside and told us how she had taken in 18 stray dogs over the years (most of them in kennels) to save them from the streets. On that note you will also notice a large array of cats sunning themselves on the roof! But neither were a nuisance and they mainly kept to themselves anyway.

The main house is very big and as an interior designer by trade Paula has made some unique touches to furnishing it. Very rustic chic, which blends well with the rural setting. The Quinta is in a constant upgrade as various buildings and rooms are being renovated. We had a lovely big room upstairs with exposed beam work and a decent sized bathroom.

IMG_4992.JPG

On arrival Paula offered us refreshments and loads of fresh watermelon on the terrace. We then wandered around the property, which was having one of the disused farm stables renovated to sleep 10-12 people. There's a cute little chapel and also a pool area that was part of the next project. She also has a separate one bedroom unit under way. The only downside is that the wifi only works in one area of the house but hey first world problems eh.

IMG_4994.JPG

As there isn't much in the way of amenities in the area Paula offers to cook dinner for a donation. It started with soup as do all Portuguese meals and was followed by a lovely fish stew, with fresh bread and wine. This was followed by ice cream and some cherry liquor. All in all very filling and tasty but the best part was Paula's company and her interesting life stories. She set the table for only two (we were the only guests that night) as to not assume we wanted company but when we asked her and her husband to join us she kindly obliged.

IMG_5001.JPG

The room was €40 for a double, which included a large breakfast and we paid €20 for the previous nights meal, which I think Paula was surprised to receive (in a good way) but we thought was definitely worth that much.

At this point it was a great overnight stay but what really makes this place so special is the extra mile Paula went to the next day and of which we will forever be grateful for. After two days of hard walking in the hot sun my wife's feet were plagued with severe blisters. On noting this Paula offered to drive Jude 15kms to the next stop while I walked it. After much deliberation the next morning this offer was gratefully accepted. Not only did Paula drive Jude there but also took her for a coffee in the local plaza until I arrived. She then took us to the hostel we were staying at and waited to ensure that we were checked in and settled. To top it off Paula then drove us to the city look out point so that Jude did not have to walk there!

And that is what makes Quinta de Burra such a special place to stay. We hope to return and spend more time here to soak up the tranquillity (albeit when the dogs aren't barking at the rare passer-by) but mainly to spend more time with a beautiful soul that is Paula.
 
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And that is what makes Quinta de Burra such a special place to stay. We hope to return and spend more time here to soak up the tranquillity (albeit when the dogs aren't barking at the rare passer-by) but mainly to spend more time with a beautiful soul that is Paula.
Hi, Ricokiwi, and welcome to the forum!

There is a little forum guide from Lisbon to Porto and we had heard rumblings about this new place in Porto Muge a while back. But it is great to have updates and recent information. Others were sad about the closing of Quinta Marchanta, so having a replacement there is very good news.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/porto-de-muge-update.42306/

I don't know if you've used our forum guide to the caminho between Lisboa and Porto https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-portugués-lisbon-porto-2017.517/

I haven't done an update in a while but might take it on if people think there is enough new information to warrant a new edition. I haven't walked this route in almost a decade, though, so I will be of absolutely no first hand help!

Any other info you have about the route from Lisbon to Porto would be great to have for the guide update. Bom caminho, Laurie
 
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Hi, Ricokiwi, and welcome to the forum!

There is a little forum guide from Lisbon to Porto and we had heard rumblings about this new place in Porto Muge a while back. But it is great to have updates and recent information. Others were sad about the closing of Quinta Marchanta, so having a replacement there is very good news.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/porto-de-muge-update.42306/

I don't know if you've used our forum guide to the caminho between Lisboa and Porto https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-portugués-lisbon-porto-2017.517/

I haven't done an update in a while but might take it on if people think there is enough new information to warrant a new edition. I haven't walked this route in almost a decade, though, so I will be of absolutely no first hand help!

Any other info you have about the route from Lisbon to Porto would be great to have for the guide update. Bom caminho, Laurie

ola Laurie -
I wouldn't be surprised if this be actually the previous Quinta Marchanta -
the fotos makes me think that it is so - but to confirm I'd need a exact map location. Porto de Muge is not such a large settlement ... would be curious to find out.
will ask OP -
hope you are well - cheers - C
 
ola Laurie -
I wouldn't be surprised if this be actually the previous Quinta Marchanta -
the fotos makes me think that it is so - but to confirm I'd need a exact map location. Porto de Muge is not such a large settlement ... would be curious to find out.
will ask OP -
hope you are well - cheers - C

Hello,

This was the last property in Porto de Muge if you're heading out of town towards Santarem. It could be the same one although Paula did say it was pretty run down when she bought it so when did Quinta Marchanta close and what state was it in? Paula didn't actually know the name of this property when she purchased it and the locals told her it was called Quinta da Burra, which it wasn't so may have been the one you mention above.

Cheers
Rich
 
I loved reading your review of this unique establishment and its owner, and the photos you added are amazing. Thank you!

Thanks Chris, the comments are greatly appreciated.

Cheers
Rich
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Hi, Ricokiwi, and welcome to the forum!

There is a little forum guide from Lisbon to Porto and we had heard rumblings about this new place in Porto Muge a while back. But it is great to have updates and recent information. Others were sad about the closing of Quinta Marchanta, so having a replacement there is very good news.
https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/porto-de-muge-update.42306/

I don't know if you've used our forum guide to the caminho between Lisboa and Porto https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/resources/camino-portugués-lisbon-porto-2017.517/

I haven't done an update in a while but might take it on if people think there is enough new information to warrant a new edition. I haven't walked this route in almost a decade, though, so I will be of absolutely no first hand help!

Any other info you have about the route from Lisbon to Porto would be great to have for the guide update. Bom caminho, Laurie

Thanks Laurie,

Yes it's not the most popular route from Lisbon is it. We didn't encounter many other Pilgrims until we hit Porto and there isn't much in the way of information except using the Brierley guide, which everybody had. So an updated forum would be very useful. I did a number of reviews on the way so could post those too if you let me know to which thread.

Cheers
Rich
 
Hello,

This was the last property in Ponte de Muge if you're heading out of town towards Santarem. It could be the same one although Paula did say it was pretty run down when she bought it so when did Quinta Marchanta close and what state was it in? Paula didn't actually know the name of this property when she purchased it and the locals told her it was called Quinta da Burra, which it wasn't so may have been the one you mention above.

Cheers
Rich

Obrigado Rich for your prompt response -
hm - might not be it after all - Quinta Marchanta was to the LEFT (the Tejo river to the right hand side, coming from Valada... more towards the beginning of PdM) . It was a former Horse 'farm' or riding school too.
I was the only guest there, in one of the guest houses (upstairs/downstairs, kitchen/bath/bedroom) for 20 Euros in May 2014.
Loved the place - plus it was sooo tranquil and peaceful. That's why I went back to de-pilgrim , to rest some more before venturing back to large cities etc.
The area is very rural and flat - yet i loved walking the caminho after Azambuja ... through fields and farm lands, listening to the wind through the reeds, and seeing much beauty. Did not meet pilgrims much at all during the day, but sometimes in the evenings in hostels, etc.
Such a blessed caminho!
glad to read that you enjoyed it as well -
saluti
claudia

PS - below all images from the Quinta Marchanta (believe it was sold end of 2014 or perhaps early 2015)IMG_0361.jpg IMG_0358.jpg
 

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Wow! We agree with everything that you've written. We stayed there on October 23rd of this year. It was the best stay of our Camino (so far - we are still walking). It was not Quinta Marchanta. Paula told us a wonderful story about how she got started. One day a few years ago when it was pouring rain a pilgrim knocked at her door begging for a place to stay, and she gladly took him in. A couple of months later it was 2 pilgrims, and she thought this might be a good thing to do. I too was "picked up" by Paula as she passed by on her way back from town, and my husband walked the rest of the way (her car is small and had groceries). By the time he got there - only a kilometer - I was sitting on the patio with refreshments.
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Obrigado Rich for your prompt response -
hm - might not be it after all - Quinta Marchanta was to the LEFT (the Tejo river to the right hand side, coming from Valada... more towards the beginning of PdM) . It was a former Horse 'farm' or riding school too.
I was the only guest there, in one of the guest houses (upstairs/downstairs, kitchen/bath/bedroom) for 20 Euros in May 2014.
Loved the place - plus it was sooo tranquil and peaceful. That's why I went back to de-pilgrim , to rest some more before venturing back to large cities etc.
The area is very rural and flat - yet i loved walking the caminho after Azambuja ... through fields and farm lands, listening to the wind through the reeds, and seeing much beauty. Did not meet pilgrims much at all during the day, but sometimes in the evenings in hostels, etc.
Such a blessed caminho!
glad to read that you enjoyed it as well -
saluti
claudia

PS - below all images from the Quinta Marchanta (believe it was sold end of 2014 or perhaps early 2015)View attachment 37402 View attachment 37401
Hi Claudia. The thread I linked to in my first post in this thread says Marchanta stopped taking pilgrims. This seems like a good substitute!!
 
Hi Claudia. The thread I linked to in my first post in this thread says Marchanta stopped taking pilgrims. This seems like a good substitute!!
yes indeed - was very happy to hear / read it - that there is a "substitute/replacement'. and hopefully that 'fake news' thingy about there not being any accommodations between Azambuja and Santarem can just evaporate :)
Quinta da Burra sounds like a great place with matching host as well!
 
We stayed at the Quinta da Burra last spring and found the home to be lovely and Paula to be one of the most gracious, generous hosts along the route. Because of the long walk between her place and the next centre, she had enough buns, cheese, meat and fruit from breakfast to make lunches on the day we left - which we appreciated when we realized how far we had to walk that day!

A funny story about Paula's place. The host where we stayed in Villafranca de Xira called Paula to book our rooms and told us a long story about how she ran a donkey ranch that was sponsored by the government. According to him, donkeys were near extinction in Portugal and they were really important animals in the country's heritage so the government wanted to encourage people to rescue and raise donkeys. He said that she made most of her money from the government sponsorship as she made little money hosting pilgrims. We arrived and were so excited to see the donkeys, only to find out that she inherited the name when she bought the place and she was the brunt of local jokes because people said she was a donkey for buying such a run down place. We had a good laugh with her.

One of our favourite places to stay on the two Caminos we've walked so far.
 
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Thanks Laurie,

Yes it's not the most popular route from Lisbon is it. We didn't encounter many other Pilgrims until we hit Porto and there isn't much in the way of information except using the Brierley guide, which everybody had. So an updated forum would be very useful. I did a number of reviews on the way so could post those too if you let me know to which thread.

Cheers
Rich
 
https://imgur.com/a/dDoCI
https://imgur.com/a/dDoCI
Above are 2 links to Google Earth screen shoots.
Would someone kindly confirm location of Quinta do Burra on those screen shoots?
Yes you are spot on. The second screen shot shows it perfectly. However, I believe that the name of the town is Porto de Muge and the house is definitely Quinta da Burra (as opposed to Quinta do Burra)

Cheers
Rich
 
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Yes you are spot on. The second screen shot shows it perfectly. However, I believe that the name of the town is Porto de Muge and the house is definitely Quinta da Burra (as opposed to Quinta do Burra)

Cheers
Rich
Thanks, will correct do for da, but will stay with just Muge a
Yes you are spot on. The second screen shot shows it perfectly. However, I believe that the name of the town is Porto de Muge and the house is definitely Quinta da Burra (as opposed to Quinta do Burra)

Cheers
Rich
I will correct for da but I think I will stay with Muge as it is easier. Thanks Rich.
 
A logical place to start any accommodation review is with the building and the amenities it provides but with Quinta da Burra I have to start with the owner Paula, who is the heart and soul of this establishment. For without her it would be a nice place to rest your head after a long day of walking but with Paula involved it becomes a home away from home, which is of great comfort to a weary traveller.

We had been recommended this Quinta by our fellow Camino walkers (our young Austrian friends) who were a day ahead of us & sang its praises. We turned up to a chorus of barking dogs behind a large wall and wooden door that wouldn't have looked out of place at the entrance to a small castle.

View attachment 37390

We rang the bell with a little trepidation given the commotion we were registering on the other side but that soon fell away when Paula led us inside and told us how she had taken in 18 stray dogs over the years (most of them in kennels) to save them from the streets. On that note you will also notice a large array of cats sunning themselves on the roof! But neither were a nuisance and they mainly kept to themselves anyway.

The main house is very big and as an interior designer by trade Paula has made some unique touches to furnishing it. Very rustic chic, which blends well with the rural setting. The Quinta is in a constant upgrade as various buildings and rooms are being renovated. We had a lovely big room upstairs with exposed beam work and a decent sized bathroom.

View attachment 37387

On arrival Paula offered us refreshments and loads of fresh watermelon on the terrace. We then wandered around the property, which was having one of the disused farm stables renovated to sleep 10-12 people. There's a cute little chapel and also a pool area that was part of the next project. She also has a separate one bedroom unit under way. The only downside is that the wifi only works in one area of the house but hey first world problems eh.

View attachment 37388

As there isn't much in the way of amenities in the area Paula offers to cook dinner for a donation. It started with soup as do all Portuguese meals and was followed by a lovely fish stew, with fresh bread and wine. This was followed by ice cream and some cherry liquor. All in all very filling and tasty but the best part was Paula's company and her interesting life stories. She set the table for only two (we were the only guests that night) as to not assume we wanted company but when we asked her and her husband to join us she kindly obliged.

View attachment 37389

The room was €40 for a double, which included a large breakfast and we paid €20 for the previous nights meal, which I think Paula was surprised to receive (in a good way) but we thought was definitely worth that much.

At this point it was a great overnight stay but what really makes this place so special is the extra mile Paula went to the next day and of which we will forever be grateful for. After two days of hard walking in the hot sun my wife's feet were plagued with severe blisters. On noting this Paula offered to drive Jude 15kms to the next stop while I walked it. After much deliberation the next morning this offer was gratefully accepted. Not only did Paula drive Jude there but also took her for a coffee in the local plaza until I arrived. She then took us to the hostel we were staying at and waited to ensure that we were checked in and settled. To top it off Paula then drove us to the city look out point so that Jude did not have to walk there!

And that is what makes Quinta de Burra such a special place to stay. We hope to return and spend more time here to soak up the tranquillity (albeit when the dogs aren't barking at the rare passer-by) but mainly to spend more time with a beautiful soul that is Paula.
Do you happen to know if this place is still open now? I'm hoping to be able to stay there but read somewhere that it might be closed or has been closed due to the death of a much loved hospitaliera? (Hope that it isn't your kind hostess Paula? :(
 
Does anyone on here know if Quinta de Burra has re-opened? I'm hoping to stay there in early April.
 
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I don’t have any recent news but I would seriously doubt that it has reopened or that it will ever reopen. Unfortunately it was indeed Paula who passed away and she ran the albergue by herself.
 

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