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  1. filly

    Resti Hospitalero Castrojeriz - RIP

    As I hiked through Castrojeriz earlier this month I looked up at the ‘cerrado’ albergue and many memories flooded back of my two stays there. Always a great sense of camaraderie.
  2. filly

    RIP, Alison Raju

    I used Alison’s VdlP CSJ guide many years ago and so appreciated all the erudite information on architectural gems; last year she accompanied me on St Olav’s Way. A great loss... and I too thought she was a contemporary rather than an elder.
  3. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Lastly some shots of the interior of the cathedral. Ikea—esque new confessionals. St James on telly in a beleagured state! An Arab film festival in SdC - well, full marks! Heading to London where I have never seen ‘Lion of Porches’. And lastly, the lovely thirties Correos. Now I know why the...
  4. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    The 30’s house is part of an enclave in the new town on the way to the station. This is where it all happens! Including a chart topping 9 Euro meal inc. bottle of tinto with no foreigner in sight, bar me.
  5. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    I am not great on these phones... Anyway the yellow arrows show which side of the street you should walk on! Laundromat with a feature period washing machine! Christmas market being set up.
  6. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    So... soon to Lavacolla. Still, a highlight has been to meet our glorious leader, Ivar himself. Upright at his computer, surrounded by shelving, boxes and a fresh pile of Brierley’s Sanabres/Invierno guide. The queue at 10.30 opening time to apply for my Compostella was 5. Be warned: one is...
  7. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Breakfast service. Nothing is too much trouble. The Parador solution to Covid is individual portions in glass jars and little bamboo tongs. Perfection A wonderful late ‘50s tiled wall on the staircase to the restaurant I would urge all pilgrims to treat themselves to a drink and thus have...
  8. filly

    What does the 'spirit of the camino' mean to you?

    Could you clarify ‘William Palmer’, please. Somehow the words remind me of the magical paintings of Samuel Palmer...
  9. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Paradores - Desde 1928 - Calidad - Amabilidad - Leyenda = heavenly!! So when did you last have your rain-soaked mochilla carried by a uniformed bellboy to your room in a separate lift... Deep-pile carpets along endless wall-sconce lit corridors, all shaded, cossetted, gentle, deep cushioned...
  10. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Made it! Cold and grim weather. Parador made an offer price I could not refuse! Seemed the ultimate treat to stay in the original hospital. More tomorrrow...
  11. filly

    Ponferrada to O Barco de Valdeorras: A Few Updates

    OK.... point taken! I’ll check it out next time! As I am ‘jubilado’ museums are often free or nearly so. Quiet, sometimes surprising places.... with clean loos!
  12. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    In Arzua at Los Tres Abetos albergue right opposite as you hit the ‘high street’. Best value Euro 12 to date. Swiss ship-shape and great host to boot. Looks too snazzy and designery from the outside to consider... but stay HERE and go to the recommended hostelry to eat ‘parrillada’. Raining...
  13. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Mass, then visit to the Museu da Terra de Melide. Then Sunday lunch at the Pulperia one hits on the way in. Had a coffee and left my mochilla, having discarded my capa. Sunday market. Lady at museum clarified that the cute round construction seen this morning was a less usual (and less durable)...
  14. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    A pouring morning.... but did not manage to change my body clock! So underway early. Having a coffee in the pulperia at the entrance to Melide. A roundabout with scallop shell motif... for the birds?? Melide bridge
  15. filly

    Starting from Lisbon — good or bad idea?

    Hello Laurie... Me again with my regular spot!!! The Tile Museum 8 kms out of Lisbon is fabulous!!! Right on the Camino. Beautifully laid out, interesting building, the displays thoughtful and include other European countries tile-making input. The main downside for me was the air traffic...
  16. filly

    CP from Lisbon - Sep 2020

    Actually there is also a FABULOUS shoe museum within 150 metres. There is still some shoe manufacturing continuing. I bought two hats from the hat museum which were sent to me. They were ‘bespoke’ in that I could specify colour and size AND have a cord/chin strap added for those windy mountain...
  17. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Memorial at Alto del Perdón

    Thank you for this reminder. I was so moved by the memorial that I could not bring myself to take a photo. Every time I am in Salamanca I mean to go to the museum on the Civil War... has anyone been and can recommend it?
  18. filly

    Don't grow up: It's a trap.

    .... and I would so love to hike in the States.... the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) especially!
  19. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Did not make it to Palas de Rei... a lot of up and down hillsides. Anyway safely in Lestedo in the smart Rectoral but quite alone. The hugest bath (beats the one experienced in an ex 1950’s Max Factor ‘health farm’ in Palm Springs, Calif.) I generally have a sink/basin and bath plug with me to...
  20. filly

    LIVE from the Camino Doing the Camino Frances.

    Erratum - my meal was in Portomarin today at O Mirador. At Ponferrada I only ate in the ‘new’ town. (I meant to have dinner one night at La Fabrica restaurant in the Fabrica de Luz/Museo de energia - looked good and chilled!)