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You are correct. I walked in 1974, also with David Gitlitz, on his first Camino with students (he led 5 trips, the last 4 with Linda Davidson, who also walked in 1974). I'm happy to share stories from that experience.
I agree completely - it's a fascinating place. There are also wonderful views to Portugal (across the river), a cafe, and a small museum on top. You can also walk up - there's a path that starts in town.
I stopped in Escamplero and Cornellana on my first Primitivo and was glad that I did (and especially since you are leaving Oviedo later in the day). Escamplero has a fairly basic but adequate albergue; Cornellana was quite nice (setting and amenities in the albergue).
I would suggest trying the Cathedral. I was able to purchase a credential at the ticket booth at the entrance. The albergue also has credentials, but won't be open until the afternoon.
I rented a car from Hertz last year at the Santiago airport. The clerk there needed only my driver's license to rent the car, but he told me that if the Guardia Civil stops you and you don't have the International Driver's License, the fine is/can be 500 euros (I guess it depends on the mood of...
Send your suitcase to Santiago at the post office in Pamplona. Pick it up when you arrive:
https://www.elcaminoconcorreos.com/en/blog/paq-peregrino-your-luggage-awaits-you-at-the-end-of-the-camino-de-santiago
Or send your suitcase to Ivar in Santiago.
I would choose the Tui route for beauty. Walking from Lugo means that you join Francés in Melide - meaning you walk only 2 days on the Primitivo. Weather should be similar on both routes.
Misa del Peregrino y Bendición
DE LUNES A SÁBADO, A LAS 19,30 EN LA IGLESIA PARROQUIAL DE SANTA MARÍA LA REAL DE LA CORTE
http://www.caminosantiagoastur.com/misa-del-peregrino-y-bendicion/
The old bus station has been demolished. The airport bus goes to the Intermodal Station (train and bus), where you can catch a bus to many places, including Ferrol.
For a Spanish cookbook, I recommend Tastes of the Camino, by Yosmar Martinez and available from www.whiskandspatula.com (with measurements in American quantities).
I bought the metal St. James cross at Casa Sole, Caldereria, 46 in Santiago.
It was a small chapel on the left hand side as one walks toward the exit door of the Cathedral (the door that exits toward San Martín Pinario). Teodomiro's tombstone was in that space when I was there last August.
I started the Primitivo alone in August, but I got to know the other pilgrims walking the route. I did Hospitales, but there were always people ahead or behind, the route was well marked, and halfway through, clouds rolled in and I walked in dense fog and heavy rain until Puerto del Palo - there...
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