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I finished the Primitivo two weeks ago and I'd suggest maybe booking your first night or two to be sure, and then seeing how busy it feels. There aren't as many places to stop and stay on the Primitivo, so within a couple of days you'll see if places are squeezed full or have space and that'll...
I didn't for Berducedo, and rhe albergue here is less than half full. I'd also suggest looking at the new albergue at Colina de Arriba (ypu can reserve on their website) - it's a few km from Borres on the Pola route, but there's a route from there to the Hospitales (about a km of steep ascent)...
The ruins were fine, they weren't near to the fires but the info board and structure at the old mining site (I can't remember the name - something de Freita?) is pretty much destroyed.
I took two litres of water with me today on the Hospitales, both bottles with electrolyte/hydration tablets from Science in Sport added. That lasted me for a day (and I'm pretty sweaty, if that's not TMI!) but I did drink a bit more with breakfast and guzzler down a bottle on arrival at Berducedo...
In Berducedo right now, having walked the Hospitales today. Route is fully opened, there are a lot of burned areas and a smell of smoke in some places, but was still a fantastic walk. Attached a few photos - some areas more affected than others but green shoots are coming through the black and...
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