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Laurie, I didn't go to Ponferrada but deviated at the bridge from the Francés directly on to the Camino de Invierno. It was my first Camino Francés from Roncevalles. Last year I had joined it in Burgos and in 2010, on my first Camino, I joined it from the Via de La Plata in Astorga. So...
I wish I'd been able to read your own account which is so comprehenive - and very clearly written!! - before I set off - but maybe I'd have stayed on the Francés if I'd known the amount of upa and downs on the Invierno.
For me, Laurie, it is the Camino in which I felt most immersed in Galicia, almost literally, with the two great descents into its bowels where the Sil and the Minho take away the waters from the North. I spoke with more local people than I had on the Francés or the Portuguese. One afternoon...
I, too, would add that Asun is a wonder. For me, she is a priestess: which is what we should have rather than women priests. She heals with rituals, minerals and oils but most of all Love.
Not a single polideportivo on offer this month from what I could find out but, from A Pobra de Brollón onwards Pensiones with rooms at 15 euros, often of a high standard, were available in Pobra, Monforte, Chantada and Rodeiro. I expect you have them in the guide.
I finished walking it last week but took the road for several parts after finding the first half too much for my knees and arthritic ankle. I'd happily have a look at your guide to see what I missed. My decision to walk the Invierno was a bit last minute and unplanned - I did it with a few...
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