10-15 Days: Which Camino?

[edgaryxe]

I'm 42, and in relatively good physical shape. I'm planning to walk the Camino for 10-15 days between Sept. 20 - Oct. 20 of this year. I have never walked the Camino before, and since I'm only walking a short distance (approx. +/- 300KM), I would prefer not to walk on the Camino Frances (I would like to walk the Frances in its entirety in the future). I will be alone, and while I don't mind being alone, it would be nice to meet other pilgrims along the way. I also would like to stay at monasteries along the way. Receiving a Compostela at the end is preferred, but not a must, especially if I can return in the future to "complete" the route and get a Compostela then. Any advice on which routes might be suitable? Thank you in advance for sharing your insights.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Others will correct me if I am wrong but I think the only Monastery with pilgrim accommodation within your range is on the Via de la Plata at Oseira. The monastery there is beautiful and well worth visiting.

Ourense to Santiago via Oseira would take about 5 days and qualifies for a Compostela you would then have time to walk to Finisterre if you wished.

Or you could walk the Camino Ingles from Ferrol (no Monasteries I'm afraid) to Santiago which is a complete route and you would have time to walk to Finisterre.

Let us know what you decide please.

John

 

[Oceanroc7]

Hello Canada,

I believe there are few monasteries on any camino and have heard that the monastery at Oseira is less enthusiasistic about taking in pilgrims these days. I am passing there in about 10 days so will try to let you know the full story by posting something on the forum.

If I were you I would choose to either do a stage of the Via de la Plata (although the southern part will be hot in September) and return to complete it, or would do a shorter walk (one of the northern caminos or the one through Portugal) and then continue to the coast.

Curiously I have the same time scale as yourself, and am starting walking in Peublo do Sanabria on August 8th and then walking to Santiago and beyond to Muxia and Finisterre. I am very excited about getting to the coast, especially as I am due to arrive at Muxia on 22nd August and might be rather hot by then!

I also like to walk alone but look forward to meeting other pilgrims.
The Camino Frances is very busy in high summer, particularly close to Santiago de C, and I would avoid it....

Regards,
Rachel

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hello Canada,

I believe there are few monasteries on any camino and have heard that the monastery at Oseira is less enthusiasistic about taking in pilgrims these days. I am passing there in about 10 days so will try to let you know the full story by posting something on the forum. Rachel

Rachel - Most of the guide books are out of date. The Monastery at Oseira has a 50 bed albergue and welcomes pilgrims with open arms.No need to phone them in advance. You'll love it. Give the most friendly hospitalero my best regards.

John

 

[andy.d]

It's also possible to stay within the Monastery at Oseira for a few nights if they have room and you ring in advance as a Christian retreat. I did this a few years ago and it made a really good pause just before arriving in Santiago to pray through the pilgrimage. It is a good place and they are very welcoming to pilgrims and interested in how to connect as well as possible with pilgrims.

As John says, there is also the albergue,

buen camino,

Andy

 

[peregrina2000]

I think there are three other monasteries within a 10 day walk from Santiago -- Samos on the Frances (but you don't want to walk the frances, so strike that). Then there's Sobrado dos Monxes on the Norte (and some who walk the Primitivo find a way to cross over to the Norte at that point). I've stayed at the Sobrado monastery and it wasn't a particularly great experience, but maybe things have changed. I also know that they too have a "hospedaria" side that provides accommodations for several nights for those who are interested in the kind of retreat Andy describes. The Primitivo has the albergue in Cornellana, in what USED to be a monastery so that probably shouldn't count.

If I had 10-15 days and didn't want to walk the Frances, hands down I'd start in Oviedo and walk the "entire" Camino Primitivo. Though it's shorter than most of the caminos, you can have a very complete pilgrim experience on it. There are some fabulous albergues and it can be walked very comfortably in 14-15 days. If pressed you could compress it more, but I wouldn't want to.

 

[JohnnieWalker]

And of course I forgot the fabulous albergue at the Franciscan Monastery in Herbon on the Camino Portuguese. This is well worth a visit for anyone using that route. 20 beds, vespers, pilgrim dinner together and morning mass for those who wish to go.

 

[edgaryxe]

Thank you all for your kind suggestions. I'm leaning towards the Camino Portugues (in addition to the monastery at Herbon, there are a few at or near Pontevedra, if I've heard correctly elsewhere), but have not decided yet. I've heard that there may be a few monasteries between Irun and Santander on the Camino del Norte also, so will check that out before deciding. Again, thanks.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, cubscorner,
Why yes you are right. There is an albergue on the Camino del Norte in the monastery of Zenarruzua in Bolibar, between Marquina-Xemein and Gernika. I've stayed there, and at that time a monk brought dinner to all of us in the albergue, which was adjacent to their monastery. That was 4 or 5 years ago, and I don't know if that tradition endures. There was also an opportunity to attend services, but I don't know about the retreat-type longer stays.

And then further on, in Cobreces, (between Santillana and Comillas) there is a monastery which has an albergue on the premises of the monastery but in a separate building. Two bedrooms, a couple of bathrooms in the back, all cots and no bunks. I was there this past June, and the opportunities for interaction seemed to be limited to our check-in and attending services. We were instructed to stay off the grass and to keep to our area (this was said very nicely, but I raise it only to indicate that more extensive contact was not encouraged). There are food options nearby.

I have a friend who is a hospitalera at Herbon every summer, and it seems like a perfect Camino place. I hope to get there soon, if you go, let us know what you thought.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[edgaryxe]

Then there's Sobrado dos Monxes on the Norte (and some who walk the Primitivo find a way to cross over to the Norte at that point). I've stayed at the Sobrado monastery and it wasn't a particularly great experience, but maybe things have changed. I also know that they too have a "hospedaria" side that provides accommodations for several nights for those who are interested in the kind of retreat Andy describes.

The Primitivo has the albergue in Cornellana, in what USED to be a monastery so that probably shouldn't count.

If I had 10-15 days and didn't want to walk the Frances, hands down I'd start in Oviedo and walk the "entire" Camino Primitivo. Though it's shorter than most of the caminos, you can have a very complete pilgrim experience on it. There are some fabulous albergues and it can be walked very comfortably in 14-15 days. If pressed you could compress it more, but I wouldn't want to.

Thanks Laurie. I'm now considering a slightly longer trip: from Irun to Bilbao (including a stay at the monastery in Zenarruza), and then bus to Oviedo and do the "Primitivo" in its entirety. The Primitivo seems to be a historical walk (it's one of the oldest and most original), and that's meaningful to me. Plus, it's apparently a challenging walk (mountainous). I hope too that there are a some other pilgrims on it so as to add to the feeling of community and togetherness. I wonder whether you could provide more insight into your statements above. Specifically:
* Distance: what would be the approximate distance of the Primitivo (Oviedo - Santiago)? What would be a realistic (not too rushed) timeframe to complete it?
* Sobrado dox Monxes: any idea how to get from the Primitivo to the Norte? Perhaps I can make the cut across, stay a few nights at Sobrado, and then return to finish the Primitivo.
* Cornellana: where is this place on the Primitivo?

Finally, I emailed two monasteries on the Norte (Zenarruza near Bilbao, and Viaceli near Santanilla del Mar), both of which replied in the affirmative: they do take in peregrinos at a low cost, between E35 and E40 p/night, meals inclusive, for individuals who wish to do a spiritual retreat there for 2-3 days; they also have albergues for free, for those just traveling through. Just thought I'd let you know. Thanks for your kind help.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, cubscorner,

I think the Primitivo is a little more than 300 kms from Oviedo to Santiago. As far as a realistic timetable for walking, that will depend on your speed and daily distance of course, but I've got some posts that might be helpful to you.

In 2008, I walked it in 11 days, described here: camino-primitivo/topic4841.html

This June, I walked it in 12 days and described it here: camino-primitivo/topic14728.html

But lest you think the extra day this year means I'm just getting feeble, I should explain that the extra day this year was needed to be able to take the Hospitales alternative.

I think most people take between 11-14 days.

In Sept.-Oct. you will definitely have company but there will not be crowds. I walked in Oct 2008 and June 2012 and both times of year are perfect in terms of not being too crowded nor too solitary.

I know some people who "crossed over" to get to Sobrado dos Monxes. They went from Lugo, and I think it was just on the highway and it goes through Friol. There is some information on it here:
camino-primitivo/topic7380.html but I have no first hand info.

as you'll see from my posts, Cornellana was my first stop on my first Camino Primitivo. It's a long day if you walk it from Oviedo, but it is about halfway between Grado and Salas. You should check out the information on mundicamino.com if you haven't already because it gives tons of info on stages, places to stay, etc.

Buen camino, I think you have made a great choice! Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola,
In addition to what Laurie has already said we will add some info from our times on the Primitivo.
This year we found a good website at http://www.gronze.com/camino-de-santiago/camino-primitivo.htm with stages etc given.
We used the CSJ guide to the Primitivo - Los Caminos del Norte, F: Camino Primitivo http://www.csj.org.uk/acatalog/The_CSJ_Bookshop_Pilgrim_Guides_to_Spain_23.html and checked the online updates. This gives clear directions, distances and accomodation suggestions. Other booklets cover the Norte from Irun through to Villaviciosa and the 'F' booklet has the far end of the Norte into Santiago, I believe. (Sorry we cut it out of ours to save weight)

Remember you can make your own 'stages', although in some parts of the Primitivo these are dictated by accomodation.
If you are checking out the Primitivo threads already suggested you will find ours for this year at http://www.caminodesantiago.me/board/camino-primitivo/topic14228.html:- Tineo to Santiago, and more on the blog listed there.
There were several new private albergues etc this year, which Laurie and otheres have noted as well as ourselves. We, being slower walkers for my benefit, took much longer than Laurie and walked quite short stages where we could; left Tineo on 26th April and reached Santiago on 15th May with stops at Grandas and Lugo to see museums etc. Shortest day was 5.5kms and longest 23.5kms.
It is a lovely Camino and I think fairly easy to find the way through Friol (night stop) then to Sobrado. Others who have done it will hopefully add to this thread. You leave the Primitivo just outside Lugo, but I think that the distance means it is not worth coming back as the Primitivo joins the Francés at Melide anyway.

Buen Camino

 

[peregrina2000]

Tia makes the great point that accommodations on the Camino Primitivo are now extensive enough to allow short as well as long stages. I don't know if that's what is responsible for the surge in popularity, but something is going on, that's for sure. I am pretty sure that cubscorner won't have to worry about accommodation (going in Sept-Oct). My impression is that the crush is pretty well limited to August.

How's this for a bizarre happening on the Primitivo, which I forgot all about till I read Tia's post and came upon the word "Tineo."

The albergue in Tineo does not let pilgrims bring their shoes inside, so I remember lining them up outside about 4 years ago when I stayed there. It's a nice albergue, I think. But this year, about two days before we went through Tineo, some idiots picked up the 14 pairs of shoes that were outside and made off with them, leaving all the pilgrims stranded in the morning. I think everyone assumes it was a bunch of vandals, and the shoes may be reappearing one by one as people find them in the bushes, etc. But it was a bad day for those pilgrims. If it had been my shoes, my camino would have been over, because of my orthotics. I heard that the Guardia Civil took the pilgrims somewhere to buy replacement shoes. Just goes to show no matter how hard you try, you can't protect yourself against all the unexpected bizarre things that might go wrong, so probably we're better off not worrying too much about it. That was the lesson I took from it, anyway.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Josefine]

Hi, when I walked the Primitivo in 2010 we went from Lugo to Friol, stayed the night in an hostal and then to Sobrado dos Monxes and we continued to Santiago on the Norte.

The walk between Lugo and Friol was my longest day ever, together with a Spanish pilgrim we lost our way completely, but If you ask at the albergue in Lugo they will tell you how to walk, we didn't stay there and were told by someone else to follow some green arrows which was a big mistake. I still don't know how we should have walked and I don't know how we finally reached Friol but have heard from other people that they give you correct information at the albergue.
Josefine

 

[edgaryxe]

Hi again. Does anyone know about transportation connections from smaller towns (like Bolibar, Ziortza, Markina, or Gernika - all in the Basque Province, along the Camino del Norte?) to cities like Bilbao?

My plan at this point is as follows: Irun - Bolibar/Ziortza along the Camino del Norte in 5 days, then 2 days' rest at the monastery in Zenarruza.

Then, by transportation (bus? train?) to Bilbao and further on to Oviedo, to do the Camino Primitivo in 16 days, including two nights at the Maria de Sobrado monastery.

The transportation link (pardon the pun) is key for this plan to work, so I would appreciate any tips!

With gratitude and wishes of peace to you all.
Ed.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

May I please ask advice - and get back to the title of this section - 10 to 15 days Which Camino?
I'm thinking about next year,2015.
I like quiet, but well marked caminos. Quiet because I enjoy my own and God's company, take hundreds of photos and talk to the animals. Well marked because I tend to easily get lost. I walk alone, and my wife is convinced that, each year, I'll end up in Africa rather than Santiago.
You p[eregrinos have so much experience of the various routes - which do you think might suite me? You can see ones I've walked below my picture.
Many, many thanks, and buen camino a todos ...

 

[Jacqueline Forsythe]

I love the idea of staying at a monastery....I only have 10-14 days this time around; any more ideas on the best place to start for such a short time period? Would prefer a more crowded route since I'll be traveling alone.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Ten days -- start at Ponferrada. Fourteen days -- start at Leon. There will be plenty of people! I cannot think of a monastery on this section of the Camino Frances; Rabanal maybe. However, there are plenty of rustic and religious places.

 

[Dutch]

10-14 days?

For me, just based on knowing what i know, i would have 3 options:

1 Start in St Jean and just walk till times up. I LOVE the first day.
2 calculate how long it would take me to go from "xxx" to Santiago. (For instance, Leon) and start there.
3 Portugees camino. Porto to Santiago, which takes 10 days aprox. And maybe have time left to walk or bus to finisterre.


Looking at the above, it would probaly say to you, do the Porto to Santiago. Lots of pilgrims around. Fantastic scenery, great food, the Portugal part of the walk is cheap and the idea, if important to you, of walking a complete camino route is nice too.

 

[Kiwi-family]

10-15 days? How about the Primitivo?
Monasteries? There's a nice one on the Baztan route, but that would be way too short.

 

[Casa Banderas]

Leon to Santiago is a great 12 day walk. By late September October the crowds will be thinning out. Take a taxi out of Leon to Virgen del Camino as the first few miles are dirty factories. The Portuguese route from Porto is a 10 day walk either inland or coast wise and you may meet some fellow travellers. Take the bus out of Porto as thee are some mean freeways to cross as you leave the town.

The English route from Ferrol is a 5 day walk, and very deserted. The first couple of days are along the sea so very nice.

Remember October many albergues close for the winter so wandering off into unknown teritory may have it's pitfalls. We close Mid October as do a number of albergues around here. (French route after Sarria). Hope this helps.