11 days on the Ebro

[alansykes]

In October 2015 I walked up the Ebro from the coast as far as Gallur. It was a pleasant start to my camino. I did the following stages:

Sant Carles de la Rápita to Tortosa:

A dull day, mostly on the Ebro's canal, having swum out of the sea in the morning. Amposta was roughly half way along the way, and was a decent place to stop for lunch or a snack. At Tortosa I stayed in the huge seminario (Residencia Adrià VI) not far from the railway station, in a room with two single beds and en suite. It cost 15.50€ including an ample breakfast. They like you to let them know in advance if you are coming: 977 440 200.

Tortosa to Benifallet:

The day is entirely on a vía verde former railway track, mostly parallel with the river. I stayed in the old station of Benifallet. It was very comfortable, with quite a decent restaurant attached (652 940703), it was about 30€ b&b, and breakfast was excellent, including a do-it-youself zumo machine. If it's closed or full, Benifallet is a bit of a way further back, and the hotel at La Fontcalda an hour or so further on.

Benifallet to Gandesa:

A fairly short day (c18km). This stage takes you through some quite long railway tunnels, which have movement-activated solar paneled lighting (designed for the convenience of bicyclists rather than walkers, so you may have to fumble to find a light switch in the gloom). You turn off the vía verde at La Fontcalda, which is worth a stop for the hot spring gushing out of the mountainside, and a coffee at the bar. There's then a quite brisk climb up to Gandesa. Gandesa is a friendly town with several decent bars and restaurants, an interesting museum about the Battle of the Ebro, and an albergue. I arrived on a Bank Holiday Monday so couldn't find out how to get in to the albergue, and stayed in a dump. The Hotel Piqué, which I saw after I'd checked into my dump, looked much better and was near the wine co-op, designed by Gaudí's pupil Cèsar Martinell.

Gandesa to Batea:

A very short day (about 12km) as I'd spent the morning in the Ebro battle museum. The municipal albergue is very well equipped (I think 10€), and the town has interesting arcades, and a delicious local DOC wine. The albergue is also used as a hostal for seasonal fruit pickers, so might be full in summer.

Batea to Caspe:

A long day (43km, according to wikiloc, 37 according to mundicamino). Very nice walk through garrigue and maquis-like country. Nearly half way is the village of Fabara, with a couple of bars. There is a place with rooms here that you can stay. There is an interesting 2nd century AD Roman mausoleum just over the river from the town. It has a water tap which is worth topping up with, as, other than a dew pond, there is nothing for the next 20-24km. I stayed in a nasty hotel by the station in Caspe, but the "Visit Hotel" nearby, where I had breakfast on the way out, looked much nicer.

More to follow

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Alan,
You know I'm going to bombard you with questions. Here are a few from these first few days.

Based on the terrain, does Tortosa to GAndesa (40 km, I think) seem reasonable to you? I know that's a very individual thing, and I would rather break it up with a stay in La Fontcalda, but if I do that I will arrive in Gandesa on Sunday. That means the museum will be closed in the pm and then again on Monday. So I'm thinking I'll just push it from Tortosa.

Did you stay in Fonda Serres in Gandesa? If that's the "dump," I'm wondering how much it is and whether it is tolerable. Might ease my conscience if I decide to splurge on the parador in Tortosa. (Hotel Pique in Gandesa looks a little pricey, but I haven't seen the prices).

I was thinking that I'd break the Gandesa to Caspe stretch with a break in Fabara rather than Batea. 43 is pushing my limit. What did you think of Fabara?

In Caspe, I saw Stephen in his blog gave a bad review to Hotel Magallon. I've also seen one called Hotel Mar de Aragon. Booking.com shows a Hostal Surtidor, around 23 euros. Was any of those your "nasty" place?

Thanks, Alan, this is so helpful. Can't wait to walk this route. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[alansykes]

Hi, Alan,
Based on the terrain, does Tortosa to GAndesa (40 km, I think) seem reasonable to you? I know that's a very individual thing, and I would rather break it up with a stay in La Fontcalda, but if I do that I will arrive in Gandesa on Sunday.

I think Tortosa to Gandesa may be a bit over 40km, and although the first 3/4s is on old railway lines, there's a pretty steep incline up from La Foncalda (taking you onto the highest place in the whole camino del Ebro, I was told). If I was doing it again I would do Tortosa to la Fontcalda. If you leave La Fontcalda at 8am you should be in Gandesa by 11-12, so in time for the Sunday morning opening of the museum (until 2pm, I think), and then either have a splurge Sunday lunch or head on to Batea, or both (the museum people have the keys and sello for Gandesa's albergue). The place I stayed in in Gandesa was above the Bazar China, I think it was only €22, so can't really complain. The parador in Tortosa is up there with Ronda - former moorish fortress, make sure you're there as the sun sets in the hills opposite.

What did you think of Fabara?

I didn't much like Fabara, and was glad I didn't have to stay there long - the bar at the top of the village was "men only" with a dirty loo and bull-fighting memorabilia all over the place (I don't especially dislike bull-fighting, but many of its fans are unlikely ever to become friends). The other bar, on the way out of the village, had a nice barmaid but was otherwise completely deserted.

In Caspe, I saw Stephen in his blog gave a bad review to Hotel Magallon

Hotel Magallón was the one. Should have remembered Stephen gave it the thumbs down and gone on to the Visit (or the Surtidor).

Happy planning.

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh so helpful. BTW, did you visit the Roman tomb in/near Fabara?

The Fabara website says it's on the river less than a km from town. Might be a nice detour if it's not on the camino.

http://www.spain.info/en_US/que-quieres/arte/monumentos/zaragoza/sepulcro_romano_de_fabara.html

Thanks for the suggestion about Gandesa, it's nice to know I"ll have options.

 

[alansykes]

Caspe to Escatrón:

A very dull flat day, mostly on the meseta. Escatrón was a pleasant village where I had a decent lunch before deciding to head (3-4km) on across the river to the Cistercian monastery of Rueda. This has a 13th century clositer and a reconstruction of the ancient waterwheel that the monks used to irrigate their lands and which gave the monastery its name. There is a posh hotel in part of the monastery complex, slowly being restored. It's €35 for a room, or €49 for dinner, bed & breakfast, which I took as I didn't fancy going back to the village for supper. The food was fine, as was the setting. The Camino del Maestrazgo-Bajo Aragón, from Castellón, joins the Ruta del Ebro at Eascatrón. Some other time, perhaps.


Escatrón to Quinto:

A sharp ascent past the monastery hermitage takes you up to some splendid miradors of the meandros of the Ebro (it takes 30km to travel 7km in a straight line near here). There is a viciously steep goat track down to the village of Sástago and the only coffee of the day, a couple of hours after the start. The villages without coffee all had fuentes, so dehydration was not a problem. No more meseta, but some wonderful green tunnels with the river on one side and the mountains on the other. I took the long route to Quinto, probably adding 3-4km to the day (?36 in total) by going via Gelsa rather than following the GR99 along the river (in general, the GR99 is longer than the camino). In Quinto I stayed in a perfectly acceptable hostal attached to a restaurant/bar on the main square. The well restored mudéjar church at the top of the town (closed) was worth a look, partly for the views (which is why it was so badly damaged, having been used as a look-out point in the civil war, and hence got heavily bombarded).

Quinto to Zaragoza:

A couple of not at all exciting flat hours took me to Fuentes de Ebro where I was finishing a cup of coffee when a bus to Zaragoza pulled up. So I hopped onto it and avoided the suburbs, and got a few extra hours in the city. Zaragoza was celebrating the fiesta or Our Lady of the Pilar, so was heaving with people, street performers, concerts, wine launches and all sorts. The youth hostel was full, and I made the mistake of booking into a pensión apparently run by a graduate of the Norman Bates School of Hospitality. I don't mind staying in a dump, but I resent paying 30€ for it when I know I could have got something perfectly decent for the same price or a fraction more if I'd gone to the very helpful turismo first. It had the advantage of being very central.

Zaragoza to Torres de Berrellén:

A short day, meaning I could enjoy most of the morning in Zaragoza. The exit is along the river, mostly avoiding unlovely suburbs. Half way is Monzalbarba, with a fine mudéjar tower. Torres de Berrellén has a very comfortable albergue above the medical centre in the central square (7.20€). You pick the keys up in the nearby Café Aroa, which does reasonable food. On clear days you can apparently already see the Moncayo massif from close to Zaragoza. Sadly, it was not clear for me until a couple of days later.

Torres de Berrellén to Gallur:

A slightly longer day (c33km). Mostly very unexciting, but there was a piece of Goya juvenilia at the top of a handsome 17th century staircase in Alagón, and, for Cervantes buffs, Alcalá de Ebro is identified with Barataria, the "island" Sancho Panza briefly (and rather effectively) "governed". Gallur has a really excellent albergue (10€) in the old railway station. The beds are upstairs, while downstairs is a bustling bar/café, which was actually rather better than anything I found in the slightly grim town itself (the station is about 500m across the tracks from the main town).

I left the Ebro at Gallur, choosing to continue westwards on the Camino Castellano-Aragonés.

I should perhaps mention that I didn't see a single other pilgrim from the sea onwards (or, indeed, until Burgos a couple of weeks later). From the visitors' book in Torrres de Berrellén, there had been somebody walking at the beginning of October, and quite a few in the spring and early autumn - many of them doing the Jesuit camino to or from Loyola.

 

[alansykes]

Oh so helpful. BTW, did you visit the Roman tomb in/near Fabara?

The Fabara website says it's on the river less than a km from town. Might be a nice detour if it's not on the camino.

The mausoleum was lovely, and I was rather jealous of the Lupus family, as there are far worse places to spend eternity. It's only a very short detour off the camino (?500m). It's also got a fuente with the last water in about 20-24km before Caspe (other than a dewpond which will probably be be a bit stagnant at your normal time of year).

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Alan - did you discover this strage amphitheatre between Xerta and Benifallet but only 2 kms from Xerta? Just before you get to the Assut [dam].
I can find no reference to it anywhere!

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Alan said "There is a viciously steep goat track down to the village of Sástago and the only coffee of the day, a couple of hours after the start." It was one of the steepest downward tracks I've walked: I actually wondered whether to take the road, but decided to brave it! The view looking down to Sastago was lovely. I clambered down, and crossed that beautiful bridge and stayed there in the only hotel in the small town....


Sorry ... no more pictures I promise!

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks again, Alan, here are some questions on post #2!

-- I have read somewhere that the Monastery de Rueda has (or is making) an albergue. The rooms I see listed on booking are more than the 35/49 euro options you had. I'm wondering if that's a special pilgrim price or just an off season November price, any idea? Would you stay in the monastery again, or do you think it's preferable to stay in town?

-- The gps tracks I've seen on line also went to Gelsa. So was it a choice of either following an arrow or the river walk? Where do you think those extra kms come in?

-- From Zaragoza to Gallur, would you recommend staying in Alagon instead of Torres de Berrelen in order to make the two days slightly more equal? I know I've seen somewhere that there's an albergue in Alagon but I don't see anything about it on the standard websites.

And Stephen, I love seeing the pictures in the context of specific posts. I've read your blog and seen them all but it gives me more of a concrete sense of where I'll be when I see them in regards to particular comments, if that makes any sense. So, IMO, keep those pictures coming! Thanks guys, Laurie

 

[C clearly]

no more pictures I promise!

Why not? That last one was spectacular!

 

[Castilian]

I know I've seen somewhere that there's an albergue in Alagon but I don't see anything about it on the standard websites.

Maybe because you didn't read about a pilgrim's albergue but about the municipal one quoted on the web of the town council: www.alagon.es/index.php/municipiol/noticias/ultimas-noticias/item/684-equipamientos-municipales.html

 

[KinkyOne]

Maybe because you didn't read about a pilgrim's albergue but about the municipal one quoted on the web of the town council: www.alagon.es/index.php/municipiol/noticias/ultimas-noticias/item/684-equipamientos-municipales.html

Hehe, and the name is Albergue "El Caracol"

 

[Castilian]

Hehe, and the name is Albergue "El Caracol"

The name couldn't be more appropiate. If I'm not wrong, it was already built in 2008 but in 2013 it was still closed because some permits weren't yet in order...

 

[Castilian]

BTW, joking aside, if someone is interested in knowing why it's called El Caracol, take a look at:

http://identidadaragonesa.wordpress...-el-canal-imperial-iii-las-murallas-de-grisen

P.S.: And be aware it's far away from downtown Alagón. In fact, it's closer to downtown Grisén than to downtown Alagón.

 

[peregrina2000]

BTW, joking aside, if someone is interested in knowing why it's called El Caracol, take a look at:

http://identidadaragonesa.wordpress...-el-canal-imperial-iii-las-murallas-de-grisen

P.S.: And be aware it's far away from downtown Alagón. In fact, it's closer to downtown Grisén than to downtown Alagón.

Castilian, once again you have all the best information, you never cease to amaze. This is SO helpful, especially knowing that it's far from the center.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

.... and as you will know, Laurie, there are at least two hotels in the centre of town. I stayed in the Angeles [? spelling] and was greeted by a little voice saying "Hello!" behind me. She must have seen the Union Jack on my backpack ....

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

The mausoleum was lovely, and I was rather jealous of the Lupus family, as there are far worse places to spend eternity.

Hi Alan! [Or Castilian maybe] Did you see my question re the strange amphitheatre?
Keep walking!

 

[alansykes]

Hi Alan! [Or Castilian maybe] Did you see my question re the strange amphitheatre?
Keep walking!

I didn't see that impressive pile of stones. I did a brief detour off the camino to visit Xerta and have a lunchtime caña, so perhaps missed it getting back onto the vía verde? Buen camino.

 

[Castilian]

[Or Castilian maybe] Did you see my question re the strange amphitheatre?

Yes, but I don't have info about it. All I know is that it's in a rest area before the assut. The rest area is next to a mirador over the rests of the former Pont de la Solitud and has a modern sundial. I have some info about the sundial (when it was posted there, who contributed to make it...) but not about the stones that are behind the sundial (i.e.: the stones on your picture).

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Alan! [Or Castilian maybe] Did you see my question re the strange amphitheatre?
Keep walking!

Yes, but I don't have info about it. All I know is that it's in a rest area before the assut. The rest area is next to a mirador over the rests of the former Pont de la Solitud and has a modern sundial. I have some info about the sundial (when it was posted there, who contributed to make it...) but not about the stones that are behind the sundial (i.e.: the stones on your picture).

Hi, Stephen, if I am correct, this is perhaps the first time anyone has ever been able to stump Castilian! So, Castilian, you are mortal after all!

 

[Castilian]

The rest area is next to a mirador over the rests of the former Pont de la Solitud

I'm not sure I worded it well enough. The mirador is over the stones of the former Pont de la Solitud but not over the former Pont de la Solitud. In other words, they took stones from the former Pont de la Solitud (that wasn't a pont -bridge- but a compuerta of the canal -(flood)gate of the canal- ) and put them all togheter to make the mirador.

Hi, Stephen, if I am correct, this is perhaps the first time anyone has ever been able to stump Castilian! So, Castilian, you are mortal after all!

Maybe I'm going to disappoint you but, yes, I'm an human being.

 

[Castilian]

P.S.: I think I've partly resolved the mistery. Comparing detailed aerial pictures (ortophotos) of the area at www.icc.cat/vissir3 , it doesn't seem the misterious rocks/stones were in the area in 2004 (but take a look yourself -the web has an English version that you should be able to browse without problems- just in case I didn't look well enough) but they were present in 2009. Therefore, I guess they were put there in 2008 (sadly, there aren't ortophotos of 2008 and 2007 to compare) when the rest area was made. Of course, it's just a(n educated) guess but it might explain the lack of info about it. So, if my guess is right, no (old) amphitheatre.

 

[peregrina2000]

Alan, I was just doing some reading about the Ebro and came across a pretty categorical statement that the marking is terrible. Was that your experience? I don't remember comments from you either way, and though I'll probably be carrying that heavy pesky GPS, it's always much nicer to just rely on the arrows.

Thanks, buen camino, Laurie

 

[alansykes]

-- I have read somewhere that the Monastery de Rueda has (or is making) an albergue. The rooms I see listed on booking are more than the 35/49 euro options you had. I'm wondering if that's a special pilgrim price or just an off season November price, any idea? Would you stay in the monastery again, or do you think it's preferable to stay in town?

There was no sign of an albergue when I stayed there. It was a decent enough hotel, in a lovely setting and I'd certainly stay there again rather than the town as it's a bit further on and makes the day to Quinto a bit shorter.

-- The gps tracks I've seen on line also went to Gelsa. So was it a choice of either following an arrow or the river walk? Where do you think those extra kms come in?

I lost the arrows at some point, and think the GR would be a better walk, but it didn't much matter really.

Alan, I was just doing some reading about the Ebro and came across a pretty categorical statement that the marking is terrible. Was that your experience? I don't remember comments from you either way, and though I'll probably be carrying that heavy pesky GPS, it's always much nicer to just rely on the arrows.

On the whole the arrows were pretty good, I thought. Better than most caminos I've walked, but perhaps that was partly because they weren't really that important, as if you know roughly which way you're going, and could see the river, it was pretty difficult to get lost. I think the arrows are possibly a bit better once you get into Aragón, but wouldn't swear to it. The last 10km of Rueda to Quinto was the only place I got "lost" - as in missed the arrows - but, as I say, it hardly matters as you can tell where you're heading.

This is one of the more prominent arrows, high up on a rock face on the stretch between Fabara and Caspe:

 

[peregrina2000]

There was no sign of an albergue when I stayed there. It was a decent enough hotel, in a lovely setting and I'd certainly stay there again rather than the town as it's a bit further on and makes the day to Quinto a bit shorter.



I lost the arrows at some point, and think the GR would be a better walk, but it didn't much matter really.



On the whole the arrows were pretty good, I thought. Better than most caminos I've walked, but perhaps that was partly because they weren't really that important, as if you know roughly which way you're going, and could see the river, it was pretty difficult to get lost. I think the arrows are possibly a bit better once you get into Aragón, but wouldn't swear to it. The last 10km of Rueda to Quinto was the only place I got "lost" - as in missed the arrows - but, as I say, it hardly matters as you can tell where you're heading.

This is one of the more prominent arrows, high up on a rock face on the stretch between Fabara and Caspe:

View attachment 22907

Thanks so much, Alan, I'm waiting for the switch over to the Castellano-Aragones.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

This is one of the more prominent arrows, high up on a rock face on the stretch between Fabara and Caspe:View attachment 22907

Alan - I think this may have been on the same climb. The arrow pointed vertically upwards!!!
I managed to find an easier path just round the outcrop! But at first sight it was scarey!!!
[Hope you can see the arrow dead centre of picture]

 

[Gypsea Moon]

Thank you all for sharing experiences and tips... I am glad I found this thread .. feeling like it will be a flowing journey : )

Going to start El Camino del Ebro mid-March this year - not being the best at planning... more like going with my instinct, luck... and the wind, (which worked fine when I walked el Camino del Norte last year (August September... no map, no guide.... many angels on the way : ) Also not worrying about the exact starting point (saw few posts about that) as I use to spend my holidays as a child in the area of Amposta, Ampolla, San Carles de la Rapita and Tortosa... intention of reconnecting with my roots as well as walking, so just thinking to spend few days in that area, touristing, then have an official start from Tortosa.

Not sure yet if I will continue after, and which Camino... but why not continue on Camino Frances once at Logrono if not too busy by beginning of April ?

or... does anyone have any suggestion for some less crowded Camino at this time of the year from there ?

Curious also if anyone reading this post walked el Camino del Ebro with intention of also connecting with past history, like I met several Spanish pilgrims last year who were honouring the memory of their family and ancestors, the ones fallen during the civil war... and if they had some specific way of doing it... just to share. Would really appreciate this.

Thank you

 

[peregrina2000]

Thank you all for sharing experiences and tips... I am glad I found this thread .. feeling like it will be a flowing journey : )

Going to start El Camino del Ebro mid-March this year - not being the best at planning... more like going with my instinct, luck... and the wind, (which worked fine when I walked el Camino del Norte last year (August September... no map, no guide.... many angels on the way : ) Also not worrying about the exact starting point (saw few posts about that) as I use to spend my holidays as a child in the area of Amposta, Ampolla, San Carles de la Rapita and Tortosa... intention of reconnecting with my roots as well as walking, so just thinking to spend few days in that area, touristing, then have an official start from Tortosa.

Not sure yet if I will continue after, and which Camino... but why not continue on Camino Frances once at Logrono if not too busy by beginning of April ?

or... does anyone have any suggestion for some less crowded Camino at this time of the year from there ?

Curious also if anyone reading this post walked el Camino del Ebro with intention of also connecting with past history, like I met several Spanish pilgrims last year who were honouring the memory of their family and ancestors, the ones fallen during the civil war... and if they had some specific way of doing it... just to share. Would really appreciate this.

Thank you

One way to avoid some of the crowds on the Francés (although I don't think there are crowds in April) would be to leave the Ebro after Zaragoza at Gallur and take the more southerly Camino Castellano-Aragonés. Then, a few days outside of Burgos you will connect with the Ruta de Lana. That means "avoiding" the Francés for the 125 kms between Logroño and Burgos. It also means that you get to visit the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos without taking a detour.

The two easiest ways to leave the Francés and still make it to Santiago are to take the Salvador/Primitivo from León or the Primitivo from Ponferrada. They are both knockout caminos, really lovely.

Wishing you a great trip, would love to hear how it goes for you, because @Anniesantiago and I are planning to start from Ríumar in late May. Can't wait! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Gypsea Moon]

One way to avoid some of the crowds on the Francés (although I don't think there are crowds in April) would be to leave the Ebro after Zaragoza at Gallur and take the more southerly Camino Castellano-Aragonés. Then, a few days outside of Burgos you will connect with the Ruta de Lana. That means "avoiding" the Francés for the 125 kms between Logroño and Burgos. It also means that you get to visit the monastery at Santo Domingo de Silos without taking a detour.

The two easiest ways to leave the Francés and still make it to Santiago are to take the Salvador/Primitivo from León or the Primitivo from Ponferrada. They are both knockout caminos, really lovely.

Wishing you a great trip, would love to hear how it goes for you, because @Anniesantiago and I are planning to start from Ríumar in late May. Can't wait! Buen camino, Laurie

thank you Laurie : )
which route would join the Primitivo from Ponferrada?
is there another way than joining the Primitivo to Melide junction from Ponferreda?

Salvador sounds interesting : ) is it mountainous like Primitivo? do you think there will be snow in April?

Wondering, in your opinion, what are the strectches on Camino Frances not to be missed- for beauty, landscape, or importance?

Bon Cami for late May from Riumar : ) )

 

[peregrina2000]

thank you Laurie : )
which route would join the Primitivo from Ponferrada?
is there another way than joining the Primitivo to Melide junction from Ponferreda?

Salvador sounds interesting : ) is it mountainous like Primitivo? do you think there will be snow in April?

Wondering, in your opinion, what are the strectches on Camino Frances not to be missed- for beauty, landscape, or importance?

Bon Cami for late May from Riumar : ) )

Hi, Gipsy Moon,

Good point about the snow, I think if you do a search on the forum you will find that there is typically a lot of snow in the mountains on the Salvador in April. Jpflavin had some pretty extreme experiences but he made it. I do not think he would recommend it, though. So I guess I would not leave the Frances at Leon.

And I mis-typed when I wrote "the Primitivo from Ponferrada." Actually it's the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. There is a lot of info on the forum about that Camino, it is beautiful, so you could check out that alternative.

I think that the Camino Frances is all pretty beautiful, even that much maligned meseta. I would only leave the Frances because of the crowds, not because of the landscape, so in April you may find you just want to stay on the Frances!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Curious also if anyone reading this post walked el Camino del Ebro with intention of also connecting with past history, like I met several Spanish pilgrims last year who were honouring the memory of their family and ancestors, the ones fallen during the civil war... and if they had some specific way of doing it... just to share. Would really appreciate this. Thank you

I really enjoyed the start of the Ruta del Ebro, as we used to live near there, and many memories were brought back. That area is full of history of the Civil War - and the Battle of the Ebro was fought where you will be walking. If you have time, visit Corbera del Ebro. The town was completely destroyed during the Battle of the Ebro (25 July–16 November 1938) and although the lower part of the town was rebuilt, the upper part, known as Poble Vell (Old Town), including the old church on the hill, has been left completely in ruins as a memorial.
When you get to Tortosa, there is a lovely monument for the fallen right in the middle of the Ebro ....


..... time for thought and a prayer for all those who suffered: and even now, 75 years later, there is still hatred and distrust in parts of Spain because of those events which took place so long ago.
Blessings and buen camino!

 

[Gypsea Moon]

Hi, Gipsy Moon,

Good point about the snow, I think if you do a search on the forum you will find that there is typically a lot of snow in the mountains on the Salvador in April. Jpflavin had some pretty extreme experiences but he made it. I do not think he would recommend it, though. So I guess I would not leave the Frances at Leon.

And I mis-typed when I wrote "the Primitivo from Ponferrada." Actually it's the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada. There is a lot of info on the forum about that Camino, it is beautiful, so you could check out that alternative.

I think that the Camino Frances is all pretty beautiful, even that much maligned meseta. I would only leave the Frances because of the crowds, not because of the landscape, so in April you may find you just want to stay on the Frances!

Buen camino, Laurie

Thank you Laurie
will have a look for infos on caminos Invierno,Salvador , keeping them as an option in case the Frances is too crowded... yes.

How do you search for a member on this website?
Wanted to read about @Jpflavin experience, but didn't succeed...

 

[alansykes]

I really enjoyed the start of the Ruta del Ebro, as we used to live near there, and many memories were brought back. That area is full of history of the Civil War - and the Battle of the Ebro was fought where you will be walking. If you have time, visit Corbera del Ebro. The town was completely destroyed during the Battle of the Ebro (25 July–16 November 1938) and although the lower part of the town was rebuilt, the upper part, known as Poble Vell (Old Town), including the old church on the hill, has been left completely in ruins as a memorial.

I liked the Ebro battle museum in Gandesa, a couple of days walk up the Ebro from Tortosa. I was touched, when I mentioned to the curator that one of my relations had died in the battle, immediately to be shown into the room dedicated to the International Brigade.

When you get to Tortosa, there is a lovely monument for the fallen right in the middle of the Ebro ....

Hmmmm, not everybody would agree with the word "lovely" attached to the nationalist war memorial in the Ebro.

When Franco inaugurated it in 1966, it included his personal "Victory" motif, and it stated that it was a memorial to "los combatientes que hallaron gloria en la batalla del Ebro" and "Al Caudillo del Cruzada". Most of the more blatantly franquiste symbols have been removed from the sculpture, although the imperial eagle remains, as do various attempts to have it demolished under the lei de la Memoria Histórica of 2007.

 

[peregrina2000]

I liked the Ebro battle museum in Gandesa, a couple of days walk up the Ebro from Tortosa. I was touched, when I mentioned to the curator that one of my relations had died in the battle, immediately to be shown into the room dedicated to the International Brigade.

Alan, when I was doing a bit of pre-Camino research on the museum, I learned there is another museum devoted to the Batalla del Ebro, in Fayon (province of Zaragoza). I decided it was too far off-route to make a visit, but I wonder if you know it. http://www.labatalladelebro.com

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Hmmmm, not everybody would agree with the word "lovely" attached to the nationalist war memorial in the Ebro.

For heaven's sake. Why are folk so picky on this forum?
OK.... it's not 'lovely' ..... maybe it's 'striking'.
I shall make no further comments on this topic for fear of upsetting someone .

 

[Gypsea Moon]

For heaven's sake. Why are folk so picky on this forum?
OK.... it's not 'lovely' ..... maybe it's 'striking'.
I shall make no further comments on this topic for fear of upsetting someone .

Please do Stephen, I am interested and welcome any differences. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Gypsea Moon]

I liked the Ebro battle museum in Gandesa, a couple of days walk up the Ebro from Tortosa. I was touched, when I mentioned to the curator that one of my relations had died in the battle, immediately to be shown into the room dedicated to the International Brigade.



Hmmmm, not everybody would agree with the word "lovely" attached to the nationalist war memorial in the Ebro.

When Franco inaugurated it in 1966, it included his personal "Victory" motif, and it stated that it was a memorial to "los combatientes que hallaron gloria en la batalla del Ebro" and "Al Caudillo del Cruzada". Most of the more blatantly franquiste symbols have been removed from the sculpture, although the imperial eagle remains, as do various attempts to have it demolished under the lei de la Memoria Histórica of 2007.

This monument has always been the symbol of Tortosa for me, never questioned anything as I was a child. Thank you for sharing info and insight Alan.