A donation to the forum removes ads for you, and supports Ivar in his work running it

Advertisement

Camino Forum Donation

12 days on the Camino Primitivo - Sept. 13 to 25th

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
I have been back almost a week since walking the Primitivo with my wife. We started in Oviedo on Sept. 13th and arrived in Santiago on Sept. 25th. We enjoyed perfect fall weather. Not a drop of rain and the trails while slightly wet in a few areas had dried out greatly as compared to what I had been hearing earlier this year. I am going to put a posting of a recap of each day over the next week. So the first is Day '0', or our travel day. We live just outside Edmonton, Alberta, so getting to Spain is a long haul for us. First we flew to Toronto, Ontario and then from Toronto to Madrid. From the airport to the ALSA down term terminal by taxi (tight connection for the bus to Oviedo) Madrid to Oviedo by bus. So instead of Planes, Trains and Automobiles like the classic John Candy movie, It was Planes, Taxis and Buses! So by the time we got to Oviedo we had been up just shy of 24 hours! Once we arrived we did a little sight seeing, but not a lot as we were dead tired. So below are our pictures of our arrival in Oviedo.IMG_0658.JPGIMG_0662.JPGIMG_0663.JPGIMG_0664.JPGIMG_0668.JPGIMG_0669.JPGIMG_0674.JPGIMG_0678.JPGIMG_0688.JPGIMG_0657.JPG
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day I - Oviedo to La Doriga - 35 Kilometers. We were feeling pretty spry (good training?), so when we hit Grado, we decide to keep going and ended up at a lone albergue in the vicinity of La Doriga. We definitely notice the arrows and trail markers while adequate, are not close to the level found on the Frances. Also the rest stops are often few and far between. But we wanted a more isolated experience than the Frances, so it looks like we got our wish. The albergue we stayed at was not great, no hot water...felt like summer camp. The accommodations were adequate...barely and our meal was expensive, but we were in good spirits and not feeling bad despite a pretty long day.47072470734707447075470764707747078470794708047081
 
Last edited:

TangoBravo

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances 2013, Norte 2016, Muxia/Finisterra 2016, Portuguese 2017
zrexer.... Thanks for the inspiration. Having done Frances, Norte, and Portugal....Primitivo is my ultimate challenge. Summer 2019, I'll be following in your footsteps, maybe not such distances though.
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
zrexer.... Thanks for the inspiration. Having done Frances, Norte, and Portugal....Primitivo is my ultimate challenge. Summer 2019, I'll be following in your footsteps, maybe not such distances though.[/QUOTE]

Tangobravo, I will be posting up once a day for each of our days on the Primitivo. A few of the days really tested our mettle. It certainly changed our definition of what 'hard' is. But 12 days is doable. 33 days of Primitivo like trails would take a better pilgrim than me to complete!
 

AndreaCT

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
Fall 2016 Camino Frances to Leon
Fall 2017 Camino Frances to Finisterre
May 2019 Portuguese
Hello Fellow Canadian Zrexer! I hear your Day zero exhaustion. It is a killer if you're from Western Canada because it takes us over seven hours just to fly across Canada! (I'm from Victoria). I'm looking forward to the postings of your trip because I'm debating between the Portuguese and the Primitivo next spring.
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 2. La Doriga to La Espina - 23.9 kilometers. Later start today. Not walking until 8:10 AM, but after our marathon 35 kilometer day yesterday we don't feel guilty! Interesting day overall. Certainly the Primitivo is living up to it's reputation of being hilly. Starting to reset our opinion of what a hard days walk is now. Our question of the day is how long is a Spanish kilometer? They seem longer than 1000 meters!
As we are approaching Salas, we meet a young Polish lady who is slowly mincing down the trail. It is obvious her feet our killing her. I talk to her for awhile and advise at the very first opportunity to ditch her boots and get runners or trail shoes.
We have lunch in Salas and chat with many familiar faces from today and yesterday. We had planned to stay in Bodenaya, but the albergue is down to one bed.
We stay at a great albergue called El Texu in La Espina. It is run by a young Polish lady that found her calling while on the Primitivo. Nice private room and meal which we share with an Australian Catholic priest. My wife asks him to say grace before our meal. He seems a little surprised at the request, but is more than happy to do so. We have a long chat with him and find him very interesting. He has done many of the Camino routes, but admits he is finding the Primitivo is his most challenging one yet.IMG_0757.JPGIMG_0758.JPGIMG_0759.JPGIMG_0760.JPGIMG_0770.JPGIMG_0772.JPGIMG_0773.JPGIMG_0782.JPGIMG_0786.JPGIMG_0791.JPG
 
Last edited:

astronwolf

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
planning Primitivo (April to May, 2019)
zrexer - I'll be reading your posts with great interest. Keep them coming!
 

jerby

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances-Finisterre 2013
Portugues 2017/18
Ingles 2018
zrexer.... Thanks for the inspiration. Having done Frances, Norte, and Portugal....Primitivo is my ultimate challenge. Summer 2019, I'll be following in your footsteps, maybe not such distances though.
 

jerby

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances-Finisterre 2013
Portugues 2017/18
Ingles 2018
Just wanted to say thanks for 2 great write ups SO far. The photos and your descriptions make me want to hop on a plane and start walking.
Heading over in 9 days time to finish the Portuguese and walk the Ingles route.
The problem with this Camino stuff is that it's addictive and I found 2 or 3 more lesser known Camino's that I would like to walk.
Buen Camino and safe walking. Looking forward to reading more blogs.
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 3 - La Espina to Campiello - 26.2 Kilometers.

We have some yogurt and a couple of grapefruits and croissants we had picked up the previous day in our room. We are hitting the trail before the albergue is even stirring. As with the last couple of mornings, the mornings start with heavy fog. Not cold, probably 12 to 14 C, but the fog is incredibly heavy. Our headlamps almost make it worse with the reflection off the water vapour. We manage to miss a critical arrow leaving La Espina, so we need back track a little. They are a little stingy with the yellow paint we are finding! Soon we are making forward progress, but our coffee/lunch stop is a 11.3 kilometers down the road at Tineo. The Primitivo is a Catch 22. You get a more isolated experience than the Frances, but you do miss the available of a coffee stop now and then...and my wife misses bathrooms!
We do see vending machines periodically, but shy away from them.
Tineo seems very quiet, with a lot of older people and not much in the way of services. The bar we stop at has few wrapped sandwiches which look questionable as to their freshness, but we are quickly learning on the Primitivo there may not be another option for hours, so we get a couple and they turn out to be fine. I can't help thinking how many other things this bar/coffee stop could sell to pilgrims if made available.
The scenery really is spectacular and even in early fall, everything looks green and lush and flowers are still everywhere.
The last five kilometers into Campiello is a bit of a grind, we are tired, Jeanette's feet are getting a little beat up. So what we call our 'pilgrimtude' is now at a low ebb. But we do finally reach Campiello and find a great newer albergue, with showers that had hot water! After getting cleaned up and sharing a bottle of wine, our 'pilgrimtude' is back to normal.
There is a good store next to the albergue so we buy a bunch of supplies for tomorrow's walk through the high Hospitales route which offers zero services for almost 33 kilometers. We are warned the heavy hill fog may not make this a wise choice. We will see in the morning.
I spend some time talking again to the Australian Catholic priest from the other night (no confessions from me!) he is a very well travelled interesting gentleman. I also talk to Fabian, a 30 year old German man that has decided to quit his life as a systems analyst (much to his parents dismay) and travel. He has sold everything he owns. He eventually wants to end up in New Zealand, work and figure out the rest of his life. He just knows he does not want a 'conventional' life. I admire his courage. The path less traveled.
We are sitting outside still at 10 PM, crystal blue skies and the stars are now out. I have drunk way too much wine and too many beers with Fabian. I totter off to bed. It's been a good day on the Camino.
47172471734717447175471764717747178471794718047181
 
Last edited:

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 4 - Campiello to Berducedo via the Ruta de los Hospitales - 32.5 Kilometres.

We didn't know it yet, but today would prove to be the most challenging walk ever in our five Camino's in Spain. It was a nice albergue, but unfortunately we had three world champion snorer's in our bunk room. In the kitchen area I commented to another sleepless pilgrim that I thought between the three of them, they had 'sawn enough wood to keep the village warm that winter!'
We had our yogurt, oranges and some muffins and poked our heads outside to see what the weather looked like. It had been a perfectly blue, star filled sky when I went to bed the previous night so I had hoped that the morning would be clear for a change. But as with every other morning so far, heavy hill fog had rolled in during the night. It seemed most of the other pilgrims were planning to walk the Hospitales route regardless, so decided it would be safe enough with a bunch of us on the path.
We got out of the albergue ahead of the pack and switched on our head lamps. Again the swirling mist made our headlamps not particularly useful, but still better than no light. We walked for a while and came to a junction and not being completely sure, waited a few minutes for others to come down the trail. After a quick huddle we made a decision that proved to be the right one.
We soon reached the junction where the trail split for either the lower (but longer) Pola de Allande or the higher Ruta de los Hospitales. Soon most of the group from our albergue and others had caught up to us as my wife was suffering somewhat from blisters so our pace was slower. Soon most of the walkers were ahead of us. I take a lot of pictures, where I have noticed many walkers seem intent on the shortest elapsed time to the days end point. To each their own.
As we gained altitude, the fog began to thin and we did have some brief glimpses of some pretty spectacular countryside. It is a grazing area, so a lot of cows were near many portions of the trail.
As I was walking I saw a plastic bag that had been dropped. As I picked it up, I noticed it was someone's lunch. My wife attached it to my pack in case we came across the owner latter that morning.
I won't lie, it was a tough walk, continual elevation gain and a lot of sharp rocks on the trails that were making it one day that my lighter soled trail shoes were not the best choice.
We finally ended up at a plateau where many of the other walkers had stopped for lunch. As luck would have it, we found the lady that had lost her lunch and she was grateful to have it as this was day of absolutely no services of any kind.
After our lunch we continued on the trail still gaining considerably more elevation. The hill fog is amazing as it swirls around, one minute you have a view and literally seconds later it can roll in obliterating the view. The trail was decently marked, but I could see how you could get lost pretty easily if you happened to venture very far off the marked trail.
Eventually we reached the summit and at first the decent was pretty gradual. Soon we reached the real descent, which was about as steep as a black diamond ski run. Thankfully with our poles and a little luck we were able to navigate down the steep section with neither of us falling. A fall would have certainly resulted in stitches, broken bones or worse due to the jagged rocks both on and off the trail.
Once we had the steepest decent out of the way, we realized we had used up 80% of the 3 liters of water we had between us. We estimated we had another 8 to 10 kilometres to go so we began to ration out sips between us.
At this point, the fun was rapidly disappearing, but we were feeling confident that while being thirsty we would be OK as it was not a super hot day. After a few more kilometres and not a single place to fill our bottles or even a farm we came around a corner and next to a house, a local lady sat in a lawn chair close to her house and the trail. We pulled out our water bottles and asked in our dismal Spanish if she would fill them up for us. She broke out in a smile and grabbed our bottles and went into her house. A minute later she was back with two filled bottles. We thanked her and both had a good long drink before pressing on.
By the time we reached Berducedo, we had been walking almost 9 1/2 hours. We were both pretty beat and decided if we could find a pension, we would stay there not caring about the cost. We could not risk being in the same albergue as the super snorer from the previous night.
We did find one on the far side of town and it was like being a guest in someone's house. A very nice room.
After we both showering, we reflected back on the day. It had been very tough, our toughest walking day ever. But there was also some pride of accomplishment as well.
A quiet dinner alone and a really good sleep that night followed.47282472834728447285472864728747288472894729047291
 
Last edited:

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day Four - More pictures from the Hospitales route.IMG_0877.JPGIMG_0880.JPGIMG_0885.JPGIMG_0889.JPGIMG_0892.JPGIMG_0893.JPGIMG_0894.JPGIMG_0897.JPG
 

Snoopy99

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Camino Frances, Via Pondiensis (till Chaor)
next Caminho Português
Thank you very much for the nice report. I will start next week and have already tuned in well with the pictures.
Sincerely
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 5 - Berducedo - Grandas de Salime - 21.4 Kilometres.

We get rolling just after 8:00 AM after a somewhat disappointing breakfast at our Pension. It is another perfect walking day. We hit our first coffee stop at La Mosa which is 4.6 kilometers down the road
and meet up again with Hendrick, the 27 year old South African. He has a acoustic guitar strapped to his back pack and is busking wherever possible to make a few extra Euro's. He has been walking the last couple of days with a young German lady.
It is a very scenic day and not nearly as hard as the previous day which is a relief.
We meet up again with Gerard, the Australian Catholic priest, but even though he is older, his pace is quicker than ours.
A lot of the day is walking along a reservoir and shortly before lunch we reach the dam sight itself. The dam was made in the 1950's and produces hydro electricity.
We stop at a hotel close to the dam sight and have a great lunch. I have a beer which after a long mornings walk tastes pretty great. During the morning I had noticed a lot of motorcycles on the roads. They are great twisty roads and it makes me wish I had my bike in Spain. At lunch a couple of bikers are talking and they sound like they are from England. I talk to them a few minutes and they had taken the ferry over from England and are enjoying a few days riding in Spain.
We reach Grandas de Salime around 2:30 PM and it is nice to have had a shorter day after our marathon day of yesterday. We check into a pension. It is kind of old and I see a lot of black mold everywhere, but I figure one night will not kill us.
We wander around town, but we are in the midst of siesta time so everything is closed. The grocery store is supposed to reopen at 4:00 PM, but at 4:15 it is till not open. We find another smaller shop and secure our bottle of Vinto Tinto, so all is well.
We have dinner at the restaurant attached to our Pension, another pilgrim meal that is OK, but not memorable. We are still tired from yesterday, so we make it an early night.
It has been another great day on the Camino.
IMG_0906.JPGIMG_0910.JPGIMG_0916.JPGIMG_0920.JPGIMG_0926.JPGIMG-20180917-00874.jpgIMG_0930.JPGIMG_0932.JPGIMG_0946.JPGIMG_0960.JPG
 

camino07

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances x5, Portuguese VdlP12, Sanabres, Aragones, Norte,Salvador,Primitivo, VdlP 17,Madrid18Norte
Lovely new Albergue Cantabrica in Fonsagrada for tomorrow if you are interested.
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Lovely new Albergue Cantabrica in Fonsagrada for tomorrow if you are interested.
Thanks, but as per my title, I completed the Primitivo on Sept.25th. Maybe for the next walk!
 

camino07

Veteran Member
Camino(s) past & future
Frances x5, Portuguese VdlP12, Sanabres, Aragones, Norte,Salvador,Primitivo, VdlP 17,Madrid18Norte
Silly me, didn't pay attention to the date.
 

El Cascayal

New Member
Camino(s) past & future
Primitivo (2019)
Loved your reflections and pictures. Would you still choose to take trekking shoes rather than boots? Doesn't seem right to take boots only to use through Hospitales? Your thoughts?
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Loved your reflections and pictures. Would you still choose to take trekking shoes rather than boots? Doesn't seem right to take boots only to use through Hospitales? Your thoughts?
While boots may be better on certain sections of any Camino, I would personally never take boots on a Camino ever again. Trail shoes work well for 90% of the terrain you encounter.
So I will always go with the 90% solution.
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 6 - Grandas de Salime to the Opineural Albergue (3 Kilometers past Padron) - 35 kilometers.

An early start at 6.55 AM with our headlamps blazing come undone temporarily by a wrong turn. Once the trail ended up in a Farmer's field, we were pretty sure we had missed a turn. We got it sorted out fairly quickly and were back on the trail after not too long a delay.
As with most days so far on the Primitivo stops are few and far between, but when we reached Acebo at noon, we have a marginal café con leche and keep pounding down the trail.
We arrive in Fonsagrada at about 3:00 PM and find the town not that appealing so we decide to keep going. We get to Padron and as our guide book indicated the only Albergue in town is closed. At this point we are unaware that another 3 kilometers up the road there is a new Albergue.
As we are deciding what to do, we meet Victoria who is walking with her dog Zula. She says there is a new Albergue called the Opineural just over three kilometers up the road. Our guide book makes no mention of it, but we decide to trust her and we follow along. Sure enough the Albergue is there and it is new and very nice.
We have a nice dinner and a lively conversation that covers a lot of different topics.
It has been a long, but rewarding day on the Camino again.
52163521645216552166521675216852169521705217152172
 
Last edited:

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 7 - Opineural Albergue to Castroverde - 28.8 KIlometers

After a full breakfast at the albergue that had a lot of selection (not just toast!) we hit the trail again at 7:50 AM. It was still dark and foggy again so we had our head lamps on. After about 20 minutes our young Camino friend Mia catches up with us. We walk with her until our first coffee stop. She plans to travel past our planned stop of Castroverde, so after the coffee stop she sets off and we don't see her for the rest of the day.
We are finding the trail markers are much better since mid-day yesterday with crossing into the Galacian region of Spain. Very clear directions for a change and the maintenance of the trails is also noticeably better.
We run into the Australian priest Gerard. We chat for a few moments and he is off. He sets an impressive pace.
Our original stopping point for today was to be O Cadavo. We stop there for a break and the hostess brings out a platter of 'pinchos' which are very tasty! We decide to press on to Castroverde which is another 8.6 kilometers. This will get us into Lugo early tomorrow and give us more time there.
We find a nice room at the Pension Cortez and find the hostess is very friendly and helpful so we end up having dinner there and it is very nice.
Another great day on the Camino!52196521975219852199522005220152202522035220452205
 
Last edited:

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 8 - Castroverde to Lugo - 21.9 Kilometers

After a good nights sleep, we are up at 6:00 AM. After a quick 'pre-breakfast' of a couple of oranges and yogurts we are blazing down the trail by 6:50 AM with our headlamps lighting the way. Our head lamps have really been useful this year, we have used them virtually every morning so far.
Today is proving to be our easiest walk so far. Not much elevation change. As with every morning so far, there is fairly heavy ground fog.
We have a good coffee stop that is well stocked with snacks. The Spanish gentleman that runs it advises he will have an albergue open on the spot for the next season.
The rest of the morning is largely uneventful. We meet a couple of feisty little dogs that seem pretty excited that we have come along.
We hit the outskirts of Lugo just before noon, so today with the relatively flat terrain we have averaged a little better than four kilometers per hour which is quicker than our previous days where we seemed to be in climbing mode virtually all day.
We check into a fairly basic, older pension, but it is very central and just outside of the walled part of Lugo, so a great location. The pension has a small fridge which is great as we can keep our oranges and yogurt cool for the next morning.
The afternoon weather is absolutely perfect, the fog has all burned off and it is short sleeve weather. Lugo is a fascinating place and quite pretty. We tour the main cathedral and spend most of the afternoon just strolling around. There is a pathway on the top of the old Roman walls, so we walk almost the entire circumference. Since it is raised up the equivalence of at least two stories it gives a good vantage point for viewing most of the city.
We go for a stroll in the evening and come across our young south African friend Hendrick and he is set up in the town square busking with his guitar. He needs the funds as he is traveling on limited funds.
Another awesome day on the Camino!52229522305223152232522335223552236522375223852239
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
A few more pictures of our time in Lugo52241522435224452245
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
Day 7 - Opineural Albergue to Castroverde - 28.8 KIlometers

After a full breakfast at the albergue that had a lot of selection (not just toast!) we hit the trail again at 7:50 AM. It was still dark and foggy again so we had our head lamps on. After about 20 minutes our young Camino friend Mia catches up with us. We walk with her until our first coffee stop. She plans to travel past our planned stop of Castroverde, so after the coffee stop she sets off and we don't see her for the rest of the day.
We are finding the trail markers are much better since mid-day yesterday with crossing into the Galacian region of Spain. Very clear directions for a change and the maintenance of the trails is also noticeably better.
We run into the Australian priest Gerard. We chat for a few moments and he is off. He sets an impressive pace.
Our original stopping point for today was to be O Cadavo. We stop there for a break and the hostess brings out a platter of 'pinchos' which are very tasty! We decide to press on to Castroverde which is another 8.6 kilometers. This will get us into Lugo early tomorrow and give us more time there.
We find a nice room at the Pension Cortez and find the hostess is very friendly and helpful so we end up having dinner there and it is very nice.
Another great day on the Camino!View attachment 52196View attachment 52197View attachment 52198View attachment 52199View attachment 52200View attachment 52201View attachment 52202View attachment 52203View attachment 52204View attachment 52205
Great pictures and narrative, thanks so much. I had not heard about the new albergue after Fonsagrada, so I had to do some hunting to find it. Gronze does have it listed: https://www.gronze.com/galicia/lugo/complejo-pineiral/albergue-pension-pineiral

The more "off stage" locations there are, the better people can adjust their stages to fit their walking abilities. Were there any other people in this albergue? Sure hope it makes it.

Looks like this was a pensión whose owners got creative! http://www.opineiral.com/
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 9 - Lugo to Ferreira - 26.9 Kilometers

We don't get a great nights sleep. About 10 PM there is a group of Spanish speaking pilgrims that check in late. As we have often found, many of the Spanish don't seem to have mastered the technique of 'inside voices.' They are loud past midnight, shower running full blast for what seems like hours, just very rude and inconsiderate.
In the morning we feel like returning the favor...but being Canadian, we are cursed with being polite and considerate to a fault!
We get rolling by 7:00 AM after our customary 'pre-breakfast' of yogurt and a few oranges. There is virtually nobody stirring as we leave the pension. It is only after we enter the walled city that we come across a large group of Spanish youth that have obviously been partying all night. There is a pretty disgusting mess they have left behind, a lot of broken glass and garbage everywhere.
We are always a little on edge when we come across late night drinkers. After drinking all night we worry that a couple of older pilgrims might look like a pretty soft target. It has never been a problem so far on any of our Camino's, but still a little unsettling.
We find a great coffee stop as we exit the old part of Lugo. It is always nice to have a good hit of caffeine before starting the days walk.
By our second rest stop our Dutch friends, Esther and Gerald have caught up with us. They are both bean pole thin, tall and once we finish chatting their pace is much faster than ours and they disappear over the hill rapidly.
At the second coffee stop we run into Mia again. She is such a sweet girl, always smiling and a very friendly disposition. As with the Dutch couple, she also has quite a rapid pace, but then she is more than twenty years younger than us. At least we use that as an excuse for our overall slowness.
Our last coffee stop of the day is run by a rather grumpy lady who seems upset we have stopped and interrupted her day. Really nothing is available other than drinks. We have seen this at so many stops. Pilgrims with money to spend and really nothing to buy. My capitalist side sees so many missed opportunities on this Camino by the locals.
By 2:30 PM we are starting to drag a little. Our pace on this Camino has been more rapid than any other Camino we have done and the accumulated wear and tear is starting to affect us. We see a nice looking Albergue just before Ferreira and decide to stop.
It turns out to be a good decision as it is run by a very nice gentleman that is obviously happy with what he is doing and is very accommodating. We end up having a four bed bunk room to ourselves. There are other guests, a middle aged mother traveling with three children, a couple of young teens and a boy who looks only ten or eleven.
We also meet a couple of German guys traveling together. Once is walking on crutches and appears to have some hip or leg deformity. This quickly puts the Camino into perspective, this guy has crutched over the entire way, so I guess no more whining from me about it being 'hard!'
The meal turns out to be very nice and over some more beer and wine, I have a good visit with two German guys.
Another great day on the Camino!
52249522505225152252522535225452255522575225852259
 
Last edited:

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Great pictures and narrative, thanks so much. I had not heard about the new albergue after Fonsagrada, so I had to do some hunting to find it. Gronze does have it listed: https://www.gronze.com/galicia/lugo/complejo-pineiral/albergue-pension-pineiral

The more "off stage" locations there are, the better people can adjust their stages to fit their walking abilities. Were there any other people in this albergue? Sure hope it makes it.

Looks like this was a pensión whose owners got creative! http://www.opineiral.com/
Laurie, the O'Pineiral is one of the nicest, newest albergues we have come across on any of our Camino walks. Some serious money has been spent there. It was not 100% completed. There was a large hot tub on the deck that had not been hooked up yet. Very nice meal in the evening and a fantastic spread for breakfast. It is located about 3 1/2 kilometers past Padron, so a bit of a hike out of Fonsagrada, but well worth it.
 

peregrina2000

Moderator
Staff member
And though it may be 3.5 kms from Padrón, Gronze says it is only 200 m off Camino. Not a bad trade-off, and the great thing is that it gives you an easier next day if you want to go on to Castroverde! That is always a good decision in my book, because then you have a short day into Lugo and can really see the sights without taking a rest day. Looks like you spent the afternoon like most of us -- walking -- but how often can you walk on top of Roman walls!
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 10 - Ferreira to Boente - 27.5 Kilometers.

We take advantage of the breakfast offered at the albergue. It started at 7:00 AM, so would still allow us to get the early start we prefer. It is a nice full breakfast with some protein, so something substantial to get our 'pilgrim motors' running at full power!
It turns out having breakfast at the albergue was a good idea. By time we hit Ferreira, nothing was open and it ended up being about 15 kilometers until our next coffee/lunch stop.
As with almost every other morning we walk for the first part of the morning in fairly heavy fog.
Most of the day ends up being primarily road walking, but it is not very hilly, so no complaints from us. At our lunch it is a combination of left overs from the previous night and a tortilla we share. We share some of the left over chicken with a very appreciative hungry cat at lunch.
Just as we are finishing we see our Dutch friends again Esther and Gerald. I think they are surprised to see us ahead of them as they have a much faster pace. What we lack in speed we make up by starting earlier each day.
Once we hit Melide we intersect with the Camino Frances. It is a bit of a shock as to how many pilgrims are around. Our time on the Primitivo has been a largely quiet and contemplative experience. We have now hit the pilgrim 'freeway' to Santiago. We pick up a few grocery items while in Melide.
Once we leave Melide, we are just astounded by the number of walkers and cyclists. Literally a cloud of dust on the trail due to the volume of walkers.
Still it is a beautiful, warm day, so we don't let any of it affect our pilgrim 'groove.'
When we get to Boente we decide we have walked enough for the day. We stay at a newer albergue that has a small pool for dangling your feet in. After I take care of the daily laundry, we share a bottle of wine and talk to a younger Italian couple who are professional dancers. They are both ultra fit. They have performed on cruise lines and different productions all over the world.
We have dinner at the albergue and it is one of the nicer meals so far on the Camino. The albergue is very new, but like so many in Spain, there are no screens on the windows so mosquito's harass me all night ruining what would have been a good sleep otherwise.
But again we are 10 days in, haven't had a single drop of rain and the weather has just been about as perfect as you could ever dream of
52262522635226452265522665226752268522695227052271
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
A few more pictures from Day 10.52272522735227452275
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 11 - Boente to just before Santa Irene - 23.5 Kilometers

After a somewhat restless night because of the unscreened windows and mosquitos, we are up at 6:00 AM. We had more or less packed the night before, so with our best Ninja moves we quietly creep out of the bunkroom at the albergue with out disturbing anyone and down to the kitchen/dining area.
We make our breakfast. With the groceries we had bought in Melide the previous afternoon we have a good breakfast including some ham and cheese buns.
Because we are on the trail so early today we largely have it to ourselves before the 'pilgrim hordes' hit the trails on-mass. We probably sound a little anti-social, but we are not. But the previous afternoon a group of Spanish walkers had one member in his group blasting out his music from a Bluetooth speaker he had attached to his back pack. I thought that was a little much. I like to party as much as anyone, but enjoy a more contemplative experience when I am walking.
We find a coffee stop not too long after starting out. I say to Jeannie we have passed more coffee stops since entering the Francis at Melide than the entire Primitivo previously! Still the coffee shops on the Francis to give them their due, really know how to cater to their pilgrim customers.
We do meet some interesting people. Rhonda and Wade are from Calgary, so just down the road from where we live. We also meet Roger from Las Vegas and his friend Debbie. Roger has known Debbie since childhood. Roger's wife had planned to go, but ran into hip issues that will involve a hip replacement. With everything booked she gave her blessing for Roger to still go with Debbie. Roger in particular is a very enthusiastic guy, says he is 67 but looks a least a decade younger.
The trail by mid morning is very busy, just literally packed with pilgrims. In our discussions, some are saying accommodations are filling up and we hadn't pre-booked anything. We decide to stop walking right around noon and stay at an albergue just outside of Santa Irene. Maybe not necessary, but we are just 24 kilometers from Santiago now, so not too challenging a day to get to Santiago the next day.
Nice to have a lazy afternoon and enjoy a couple of beers in the sun and later a bottle of wine with Jeannie.
Almost felt like I was on holidays!
Another great day on the Camino and the anticipation of our fourth arrival in Santiago tomorrow.
52278522795228052281522825228352284
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
Day 12 - St Irene - Santiago - 24 Kilometers.

We have a restless, largely sleepless night. The hostess at the albergue had been quite insistent we not open the window in our room since the mosquito's are bad. So I try to sleep in a very stuffy room. We have one room mate and he finally opens the window in the middle of the night which gets rid of the stuffiness, but lets in the mosquito's. Maybe I will set up a window screen company in Spain and become wealthy!
After a restless night, we decide to get up early and after a quick snack, we are walking by 5:50 AM. A few other pilgrims are already up as well, no doubt excited to get to Santiago. Just before we stop for coffee we run into Roger and Debbie that we had met the day before. We stop for coffee and decide large chocolate croissants are in order. We also have a café con leche. So now that our 'pilgrim motors' are firing on all cylinders we make fairly rapid progress to Santiago. It is now our third time approaching Santiago from this direction and we had previously taken a lot of pictures so we don't stop as often today.
We stop at the stone Santiago marker for pictures and can see that it has been moved from it's previous location due to road work. It now sits by itself with no trees close by. At least we now know that that Santiago is still a bit of a walk. The first time we walked we assumed we were in Santiago when we reached the marker only to find we still had a few hours walk ahead of us.
We stop briefly at Monte do Gozo and snap a few quick pictures, but we quickly press on towards Santiago.
We get to the main plaza by the Cathedral around 11:30 AM, so probably our quickest day for covering that distance. After the really tough climbing days on the Primitivo, the last few days have seemed pretty easy in comparison with the relatively flat terrain. We see a number of familiar faces. We see the Italian dance couple and he does an impressive lift of his girl friend in front of the Cathedral.
It is our fourth time in Santiago and the first time we have seen the cathedral completely scaffold free. The restoration of the outside is very impressive and well done. We linger for awhile and see a number of familiar faces from both our Primitivo and people we meet when we intersected the Francis route from a couple of days ago.
We find our hotel we booked and get showered up. We head back to the main square and see that Roger and Debbie are now there. After chatting for awhile we decide to have lunch at our favorite Kabob place in Santiago. We see Mia, our Polish friend lunching with a few of the others that walked the Primitivo with us. Everyone is good spirits and the weather in Santiago is absolutely glorious again today.
After lunch Jeannie wants some time to poke around the shops in Santiago. I go back to the Cathedral square to people watch as I love witnessing the arrival of fellow pilgrims in the square.
It is great to be back in Santiago again!
52310523115231252313523145231552316523185231952320
 

zrexer

Active Member
Camino(s) past & future
2014, 15,16 & 19 Camino Frances
2017 Camino Portuguese
2018 Camino Primitivo
A few more pictures of our arrival day in Santiago.52321523225232352324523255232652327
 

LesBrass

Likes Walking
Camino(s) past & future
yes...
Great photos and information thank you!

All being well I'll be leaving Oviedo on Sunday 13 October... following on from the Madrid and the San Salvador. I'll be leaving on my own after saying goodbye to my husband (who's flying home)... so I'm very much hoping to meet a few other pilgrims.
 

Book your lodging here

Booking.com


Advertisement

Booking.com

Most downloaded Resources

Forum Rules

Forum Rules

Camino Forum Store

Camino Forum Store

Casa Ivar Newsletter

Forum Donation

Forum Donation
For those with no forum account, it is possible to donate here as well. Thank you for your support! Ivar

Follow Casa Ivar on Instagram

When is the best time to walk?

  • January

    Votes: 12 1.3%
  • February

    Votes: 5 0.6%
  • March

    Votes: 40 4.4%
  • April

    Votes: 136 15.1%
  • May

    Votes: 223 24.8%
  • June

    Votes: 66 7.3%
  • July

    Votes: 19 2.1%
  • August

    Votes: 13 1.4%
  • September

    Votes: 261 29.0%
  • October

    Votes: 108 12.0%
  • November

    Votes: 12 1.3%
  • December

    Votes: 5 0.6%
Top