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1st pilgrimage, 65, female, solo, asking for advice

MARSKA

Veteran Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Sept/Oct 2023
I am a 65 yr old woman from the USA planning my first Camino. I will be solo. After researching routes, weather, lodging, food, communities, etc. for the past 2 weeks, I find that I am in need of advice from pilgrims who have some experience.

May I take a few minutes of your time to introduce myself? I will then outline areas where I am needing advice, which I know you will provide in good spirit, as called to do so.

I feel drawn to a pilgrimage where I can be in joyful community with others and also have ample opportunity for solitary walking meditation. I wish to truly enjoy and be enjoyed by people and places along the way. Walking through larger cities will likely deplete my spirit for a time, so I wish to, as much as possible, skirt, avoid, or minimize walking in larger cities.

I am fortunate to be able to experience my Camino any time of year. I am again fortunate to not need a set duration, but for the sake of planning I am using 4-5 weeks for the entire trip from the USA and return home. I estimate 2-3 days pre-Camino, 3 days post-Camino, and several rest days along the route.

*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.
*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.
*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.
*I am afraid of bedbugs.
*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.
*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
*A mix of lodging along the route is fine. I am ok with anything from an MA to a hotel.

The areas where guidance at this juncture is most needed relate to route, season, weather, and bedbugs.
These are my priorities, at least for now, in order:
1. Avoid routes / seasons that will be hot & sunny with little shelter from the sun.
2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.
3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
5. Recommendations for best date range to begin, based upon the above.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.

To the reader - I know it seems I am looking for a perfect just-for-me pilgrimage. I sincerely hope I'm not. I am a person who, for some odd reason, needs to assemble much information before taking a leap.

After rereading my post, I am aware that I am asking much of you. Please, if you are moved to do so, provide whatever advice you chose to share. If not, dear pilgrim, please do not be burdened by my request.

Until we meet!
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Also, bedbugs are relative. They can be in the nicest place or the most simple albergue. Learn what to look for before lying down at night and try to keep most of your body covered. I am a hospitalera and don't fear them, but also know there is almost nothing that will kill them quickly that doesn't also kill or harm humans.
 
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Thank you for your reply! I am concerned about the number of people traveling the CF, but perhaps in October the numbers are less? What do I need to look for before lying down at night - what are the signs of bedbug activity?
 
Welcome to the forum!
Check out all of the "Tag Topics.". There are multiple threads on bed bugs, route selection and just about anything that you have a question about.


Additionally, the forum is set up with many subforums covering gear and route selection, transportation to/from the Camino and more.

But always feel free to ask your own questions too.
 
Hello Marska. I am also a 65 year old woman from the US about to embark on my first Camino in May. Solo. A little scary, yes but I know I can do it. I am doing El Norte. A bit more demanding but one of the prettiest places in the world in my opinion and well worth the extra incline. There could be, will be, rain but I doubt it will be hot. As for bedbugs there is a spray you can get for your backpack, my daughter used it and no problems. Maybe just a coincidence, idk.
Good luck to us!! Enjoy!
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
As for bedbugs there is a spray you can get for your backpack, my daughter used it and no problems. Maybe just a coincidence, idk.
That spray is permethrin, which won't repel bedbugs nor kill them on contact. However prolonged contact with permethrin treated surfaces should kill them in a couple of hours. This should keep you from transporting hitchhiking bed bugs to the next albergue or to your home.
 
In which city of the US do you live? Mamy have local pilgrim groups which can assist you with planning, training, and all of these questions.

Am I correct that you are looking for about 20 days of short stages? That means you’ll start about 200-250km from Santiago. Get a guidebook (there are plenty like Brierly, DoDo, etc) or an app and see which city is in that range and easy to reach from the USA. That at least gives you a starting point to build off of for further decisions.

October is nice, but it can still be hot. I like April - everything is refreshed, villages are looking forward to pilgrims, and the bedbugs haven’t quite arrived 😎
 
Lihaseso - I hope you will tell us about your Camino. El Norte looks beautiful but as I know only too well the exertions of hiking through mountains I will pass. But I'd love to hear your report!

TYrecil - thank you for the links. I have been reading everything I can find. I will look at the link you sent.
 
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@Vacajoe - unfortunately there is no group in my city or state, or in the surrounding states. Which guidebooks and apps do you recommend? Yes I was thinking of April but wondering about the rain.
 
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If you don't want heat try to go later like October. The Camino Frances is good for a first Camino and gives you lots of options for places to stay in small communities. You will also still meet people and have time to yourself.
I went in October and think it was even November by the time I hit the Meseta and it was hot!!
 
I went in October and think it was even November by the time I hit the Meseta and it was hot!!
Yes, I have had 2 heat injuries myself. One last summer walking the French Way through Aragon. Some days can be too warm no matter what time of year, but thanks to weather apps, I can now better predict and get started early and stop early. Last summer we just got caught on an isolated route, ran out of water, and walked too late in the afternoon. I know better and it happened anyway.
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.
Since you have flexibility of time - I would simply avoid June/July/August/September in order to avoid the heat. Also - a solar hiking umbrella is great to have to help keep you cool. They make great lightweight ones that hold up a bit better than your ordinary umbrella. They also have hands-free connection straps. Also - on warmer days - start earlier in the morning and rest often. I rarely hiked during the heat of the day, even in June/July
*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.
To keep your km lower - stick to one of the more established routes with lots of infrastructure - Frances/Portuguese. Other routes may have longer distances between accommodations.
*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.
*I am afraid of bedbugs.
No need to be afraid of bedbugs - just check your bed before putting your bedding on it. Keep your backpack off the bed. They happen - but most of us complete our hike without encountering them personally.
*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.
*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
No worries here. Learn what you can, google translate can help with the rest.
2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.
Frances and Portuguese are great routes to start with.
3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
Well - if you pick the routes with better infrastructure to allow shorter distances - you are going to sacrifice some solitude. That said - walking in shoulder or off-seasons will help reduce crowds. I also found walking early morning allowed me to stay away from the crowds. Staying in albergues offers the best opportunity to meet people, but staying in private rooms will give you a break from the people and better nights sleep. I like to stay mostly in albergues then privates when I need some extra rest.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
Well - the longer routes like the Frances will have more varied landscapes. But a route like the Norte is gorgeous - but less infrastructure and much more ups/downs and physically challenging.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
My favorite resource is gronze.com which is a webpage in Spanish - but a chrome browser can translate it. Wise Pilgrim and Buen Camino are good apps.
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.
No. Bedbugs can happen at the cheapest/dirtiest accommodations or the cleanest/fanciest of hotels/private rooms. They can happen ANYWHERE. But the albergues for the most part work VERY hard to keep them out of their buildings. Again - check your bed anytime you stay in a bed that isn't yours - before putting your bedding on the bed, and keep your bag off the bed. If you see bedbugs - report them immediately so the host can get rid of them before more guests arrive. And they can give you guidance on how to get rid of them on your gear. Again - most of the time, most of us won't encounter them. But they do happen.
 
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Yes, I have had 2 heat injuries myself. One last summer walking the French Way through Aragon. Some days can be too warm no matter what time of year, but thanks to weather apps, I can now better predict and get started early and stop early. Last summer we just got caught on an isolated route, ran out of water, and walked too late in the afternoon. I know better and it happened anyway.
I am sorry this happened to you. Very unpleasant. I am concerned about the number of people traveling the CF, but perhaps in October the numbers are less? What do I need to look for before lying down at night - what are the signs of bedbug activity?
Yes, I have had 2 heat injuries myself. One last summer walking the French Way through Aragon. Some days can be too warm no matter what time of year, but thanks to weather apps, I can now better predict and get started early and stop early. Last summer we just got caught on an isolated route, ran out of water, and walked too late in the afternoon. I know better and it happened anyway.
 
Join our full-service guided tour of the Basque Country and let us pamper you!
My mom walked the camino at age 72 and she developed plantar fasciitis and that’s when she started getting her pack transported rather than carrying it. The only spot that was challenging for her was the descent from Alto De Perdon.

Walking through the cities is generally quick and easy. I think the only city I felt like it took awhile to get out of was maybe Burgos, but probably because I got lost.

I never encountered bed bugs and never met anyone on the Camino who encountered bed bugs.

You don’t really need maps. I had my guidebook on kindle. Physical maps are as hassle because you have to stop, take off your pack and retrieve them. Honestly the Camino Frances is so well marked I never really looked at my guidebook on my phone except to plan where I’d be likely to end ho each day.

I went in Oct-Nov and it was perfect. It was hot on the Meseta but mild temperature everywhere else except colder after Astorga.

Here is my packing list: https://marisahikes.wordpress.com/
 
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Since you have flexibility of time - I would simply avoid June/July/August/September in order to avoid the heat. Also - a solar hiking umbrella is great to have to help keep you cool. They make great lightweight ones that hold up a bit better than your ordinary umbrella. They also have hands-free connection straps.

To keep your km lower - stick to one of the more established routes with lots of infrastructure - Frances/Portuguese. Other routes may have longer distances between accommodations.

No need to be afraid of bedbugs - just check your bed before putting your bedding on it. Keep your backpack off the bed. They happen - but most of us complete our hike without encountering them personally.

No worries here. Learn what you can, google translate can help with the rest.

Frances and Portuguese are great routes to start with.

Well - if you pick the routes with better infrastructure to allow shorter distances - you are going to sacrifice some solitude. That said - walking in shoulder or off-seasons will help reduce crowds. I also found walking early morning allowed me to stay away from the crowds. Staying in albergues offers the best opportunity to meet people, but staying in private rooms will give you a break from the people and better nights sleep. I like to stay mostly in albergues then privates when I need some extra rest.

Well - the longer routes like the Frances will have more varied landscapes. But a route like the Norte is gorgeous - but less infrastructure and much more ups/downs and physically challenging.

My favorite resource is gronze.com which is a webpage in Spanish - but a chrome browser can translate it. Wise Pilgrim and Buen Camino are good apps.

No. Bedbugs can happen at the cheapest/dirtiest accommodations or the cleanest/fanciest of hotels/private rooms. They can happen ANYWHERE. But the albergues for the most part work VERY hard to keep them out of their buildings. Again - check your bed anytime you stay in a bed that isn't yours - before putting your bedding on the bed, and keep your bag off the bed. If you see bedbugs - report them immediately so the host can get rid of them before more guests arrive. And they can give you guidance on how to get rid of them on your gear. Again - most of the time, most of us won't encounter them. But they do happen.
I was unaware of solar umbrellas! And with hands-free straps! I will get one. Outside of June-Sept. from what I have been told Oct. can be hot as well. I'm traveling elsewhere this year in Nov. so maybe 2023 is out of the question. I am thinking perhaps March or April? When does traffic pick up on the 2 routes you mentioned?
 
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I was unaware of solar umbrellas! And with hands-free straps! I will get one. Outside of June-Sept. from what I have been told Oct. can be hot as well. I'm traveling elsewhere this year in Nov. so maybe 2023 is out of the question. I am thinking perhaps March or April? When does traffic pick up on the 2 routes you mentioned?
May through September are the busiest I think. But in March - you may have snow on some of the mountain passes. And if you start in St Jean Pied de Port on the Frances - you would have to do the Valcarlos route since the Napoleon route is closed until April 1 or later depending on weather forecast. But again - May/later October - if you hike in the early AM and stop early before the heat of the day - you will probably be fine. Check historical weather for those months to see what normal highs/lows are.

As for the umbrella - search "ultralight hiking umbrella" and you will see a few good options. They do a bit better in the wind than a regular umbrella.
 
My mom walked the camino at age 72 and she developed plantar fasciitis and that’s when she started getting her pack transported rather than carrying it. The only spot that was challenging for her was the descent from Alto De Perdon.

Walking through the cities is generally quick and easy. I think the only city I felt like it took awhile to get out of was maybe Burgos, but probably because I got lost.

I never encountered bed bugs and never met anyone on the Camino who encountered bed bugs.

You don’t really need maps. I had my guidebook on kindle. Physical maps are as hassle because you have to stop, take off your pack and retrieve them. Honestly the Camino Frances is so well marked I never really looked at my guidebook on my phone except to plan where I’d be likely to end ho each day.

I went in Oct-Nov and it was perfect. It was hot on the Meseta but mild temperature everywhere else except colder after Astorga.

Here is my packing list: https://marisahikes.wordpress.com/
What a wonderful packing list! I see you didnt take liner socks but I swear by them. I wouldnt take physicAl maps with me - I just like to use them for planning as I find I can better orient myself to new areas with paper. Did it feel crowded to you?
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hello Lovelyshell - that is good to know. Were you on the CF? Were there a lot of people? Crowds? Thank you - Kathy
I was on the CF and I went from Oct 12 to Nov 16. There were not a ton of people but there were other people walking. It was never too busy and there was always room
at the albergue. Really the only time I felt like I was alone was on the Meseta, which I kind of planned in a way because I knew I wanted to do some solo walking.
 
What a wonderful packing list! I see you didnt take liner socks but I swear by them. I wouldnt take physicAl maps with me - I just like to use them for planning as I find I can better orient myself to new areas with paper. Did it feel crowded to you?
I didn’t use liner socks because someone had told me before the Camino that I didn’t need them as long as long as I put Vaseline on my feet every day. Wouldn’t you know it the one day I didn’t use Vaseline I got blisters. I do have a pair of liner socks and I didn’t pack them for my Camino that I leave next Saturday for but maybe I will now!

When I went in Oct-Nov it was not crowded, I replied in a thread further down.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I didn’t use liner socks because someone had told me before the Camino that I didn’t need them as long as long as I put Vaseline on my feet every day. Wouldn’t you know it the one day I didn’t use Vaseline I got blisters. I do have a pair of liner socks and I didn’t pack them for my Camino that I leave next Saturday for but maybe I will now!

When I went in Oct-Nov it was not crowded, I replied in a thread further down.
On my 3 30-day backpack / mountain climbing trips in the Rockies I wore silk liner socks under wool socks every day. I never had a single blister while others with me on the trip had several painful ones. Just say'n.
 
On my 3 30-day backpack / mountain climbing trips in the Rockies I wore silk liner socks under wool socks every day. I never had a single blister while others with me on the trip had several painful ones. Just say'n.
Just packed them!! Thank you!
 
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So for the Camino Frances starting in Pamplona late September/ October. or April/May. Good. Timeframe for CF route decided.
What about the Portugese route? I was initially looking at starting my pilgrimage in Porto along the coastal route and continuing along the Spiritual Way. Any thoughts on this route?
I am starting the Portuguese from Porto on April 11 but I am doing the central route. I can only speak for myself, but I would do the CF if it’s your first camino and you have the time.
 
So for the Camino Frances starting in (Pamplona ?) late September/ October. or April/May. Good. Timeframe for CF decided.
What about the Portugese route?
Just packed them!! Thank you!
I am starting the Portuguese from Porto on April 11 but I am doing the central route. I can only speak for myself, but I would do the CF if it’s your first camino and you have the time.
I hope for you NO blisters! I'd be interested in hearing how you came to chose that particular route, if you would like to share.
 
So for the Camino Frances starting in (Pamplona ?) late September/ October. or April/May. Good. Timeframe for CF decided.
What about the Portugese route?


I hope for you NO blisters! I'd be interested in hearing how you came to chose that particular route, if you would like to share.
I am doing the Portuguese because I already did the Frances and this time
I have limited time. After this one I want to do the Primotivo or Norte.
 
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Thank you for your reply! I am concerned about the number of people traveling the CF, but perhaps in October the numbers are less? What do I need to look for before lying down at night - what are the signs of bedbug activity?
Yes… the numbers are substantially less.. in June, July and August—it’s hot and crowded… to the point where you see 20-30 Pilgrims in front of you and behind you… October will be a bit rainy.. you should get Ivar’s Camino Frances book if you haven’t ordered it already and John B’s book- Wise Pilgrim has a Camino Frances book.. best to do your research with.
 
I was unaware of solar umbrellas! And with hands-free straps! I will get one. Outside of June-Sept. from what I have been told Oct. can be hot as well. I'm traveling elsewhere this year in Nov. so maybe 2023 is out of the question. I am thinking perhaps March or April? When does traffic pick up on the 2 routes you mentioned?
I am starting from Leon now, and it gets warm in the afternoon but not until 3-4 PM - so just finish walking at lunch and you will be fine
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
I am starting from Leon now, and it gets warm in the afternoon but not until 3-4 PM - so just finish walking at lunch and you will be fine
And:
Easter can be crowded - but next year its in March so April should be great :)
 
Before anyone looks for it, Ivar sells guidebooks in the Forum Store, but has not written one himself.

Yes.. I expressed that poorly.. get the Book from Ivar’s store.. but… Ivar IS Amazing running this site-with so much useful knowledge 😉
 
I suggest you reconsider your time frame if you want a “leisurely“ Camino. If you have four weeks total for your trip in Spain, with 6 days total pre and post walking, that’s 28-6=22 days. Subtract a day each for coming and going of actually being on the airplane, and a couple of rest days while you walk, and that’s 22-2-2=18 days for actually being on the trail. If you walk the Francés and start in Pamplona, it’s approximately 450 miles, and you will need to walk an average of 25 miles/day (40 km). That is not leisurely.

As a point of reference, I am roughly your same age; my husband is a little older. We’re experienced hikers and in good shape. When we walked a leisurely CF last year, we were most comfortable keeping our distance at or a little under 15 miles/day (24 km). We had 6 weeks in Spain, started in Pamplona, took about 31 days for our walk, had time to get over the worst of jet lag before we began, and some time (5 or 6 days as I recall) for a little fun before we went home.

Of course, there’s a lot of individual variance, and when we were younger we had a lot more stamina. But I would suggest 6 weeks of total travel time would allow for a much more relaxed Camino. If you have extra time, there’s plenty of fun things to do in Spain and Portugal. Or choose a different starting point than Pamplona, like León or Astorga perhaps, or choose shorter Camino than the Frances.

ETA: Padding your schedule a little bit also allows time in case you get sick or injured and need a few unscheduled days off. This seems to happen to me more and more the older I get, and I don’t recover as quickly as when I was younger. It’s bad enough being laid up without having to cut out part of your camino to make up the time.
 
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I second the opinion that if you can find an extra week of time, the Frances might be a lot more enjoyable to you (regarding your wish for short-ish days). Myself being 37 and 40 on my two caminos from St.Jean to Santiago it took me 33 and 29 days for the distance. 3-4 less if starting from Pamplona. But I like walking and my stamina is pretty decent, so again, if you look for not-so-long days (say 20km on average) you should maybe see if you can find another week.
Nothing worse than having to stress your camino if you can help it.

Having only walked the Frances myself, take from it what you will:

- I love the difference of landscape you encounter. Mountains, Hills, Flats, Forests and yes, cities. Lots of culture. Lots of beauty.
- Due to it being one of the most walked caminos (besides the Portuguese) infrastructure is great. If you are in off-season, you can just start your day, walk as much as you want, and find a bed where you like. No real need for reservations. (even in May/June i didnt really book ahead and always got a bed)
- You may develop some kind of feeling of when there will be a wave of pilgrims walking. This may be days or times of the day. You can chose to walk on different times than that wave and may find the Camino surprisingly empty. Many of days i was starting late and walking long and had most of the way for myself with the occasional encounter (again, May/June which is a busier season). Or you can chose to start with the wave and be sure of the company. I love those options.
- Weather can be unpredictable. I had well above 30°C in mid May on my second, I had snow in early June on my first. But if you want to avoid the heat, April or Sept/Oct. might be better to start.
- I would advise for starting in spring. Everything is green. Everything is growing.
- This is a wild theory regarding bedbugs, it may NOT be true: Albergues may undergo some maintenance in Winter. During camino season, bedbugs may spread. The longer the season goes, there might be more bedbugs. So theoretically the risk might be lower early in the year than later on. But again, this is just my wild theory since on both my caminos i never encountered them and they did not seem to be a huge issue (again: both in May/June)

regarding packing lists, being a bit younger and male my needs might be different, but with some effort you can get a seriously light backpack. Here's what i took last time (3,6kg / 8lbs backpack):
Packliste 2022.JPG
 
I've walked the CF in the fall and in the spring during my 60s. I MUCH prefer the spring (though everybody here doesn't agree with me). In the spring the fields are green with riots of flowers, including lots of red poppies. Everything is sprouting and growing. The Storks are also on their big nests - on poles, roofs, church-tops. I didn't find either season to be more crowded than the other. I found that if I started walking in the mid-morning - after the start-at-dawn group - I often had the trail to myself. If a big group comes along, I let them pass (or I keep walking if they are stopped at a cafe). I generally don't like big cities, but the cities in Spain are lovely. Sometimes you have to get through an industrial area to get to the center, but then you find ancient cathedrals and lots of history. The plaza culture is worth experiencing, especially if you are an American (where the only walking "plazas" most of us have are malls). During siesta time and in the evening, everybody comes out, kids run and play while parents have a glass of wine and tapas with their friends. Elderly people (you know... older than us) come together to visit and watch the scene. Everyone's on foot instead of in cars. I really like that.

Oh, and the Portugues, north along the coast from Porto and then traversing into the trail inland, is shorter, beautiful and fairly easy.
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
To wear, all I take is:

mid weight long underwear (long sleeve top and pants)
2 tee shirts
1 pair shorts (all I ever wear, and over long underwear bottoms if it's cold)
1 lightweight dress (for walking around town while my walking clothes are on the line)
down jacket (packs down to practically nothing and more comfortable for a range of temps than synthetic is)
rain jacket
fleece vest
buff
baseball hat
2 pairs underwear
2 bras
Chaco sandals (to hike in)
Altra shoes (to trade off with occasionally)
2 prs. socks
lightweight gloves (outdoor research sun gloves) because my hands get sweaty with my Pacer Poles.

If you find you need any other clothes, check the lost and found/donated stuff box at the albergue. People leave all kinds of clothing they don't want, need, or forgot on the line.

I'm not adding the rest of my packing list here, but I highly recommend a rectangular bed sheet/liner and a down quilt, which I found more versatile than a mummy bag
 
I also MUCH prefer spring to fall on the Camino. I have always had mostly sunny, warm weather in May and there are cheerful wildflowers everywhere.
I walked once in September. Going over the Pyrenees was brutal, cold, wet, sleeting and windy, but that can happen anytime. Then it was nice for about a week, mid-seventies, sunny, ideal walking weather. Then in mid September it got cold and grey and rainy and very windy. The fields were mostly just plowed under dirt and the miles and miles of still standing sunflower fields were dead and brown and hanging their sad heads. It was not fun. In fact, it was all a bit depressing.

Be aware that especially in the shoulder seasons there can be a wide range of weather depending on the year. Just because someone had hot weather in November is no guarantee that you will. It’s much more likely to be cold and rainy, even possibly snowy. And just because I had crappy weather in September doesn’t mean that you will. From what I’ve seen and heard, April and October can both be really wet and cold, and it would be reasonable to expect that for at least part of your trip. May and September are much safer bets for pleasant walking weather, which is why they are so popular.

My priority is nice weather. Rain, wind, cold, and mud get me down. Crowds I can deal with. It’s the Camino, not a wilderness hike. I see weather versus crowds as a trade off. Chose what is important to you.
 
I am a 65 yr old woman from the USA planning my first Camino. I will be solo. After researching routes, weather, lodging, food, communities, etc. for the past 2 weeks, I find that I am in need of advice from pilgrims who have some experience.

May I take a few minutes of your time to introduce myself? I will then outline areas where I am needing advice, which I know you will provide in good spirit, as called to do so.

I feel drawn to a pilgrimage where I can be in joyful community with others and also have ample opportunity for solitary walking meditation. I wish to truly enjoy and be enjoyed by people and places along the way. Walking through larger cities will likely deplete my spirit for a time, so I wish to, as much as possible, skirt, avoid, or minimize walking in larger cities.

I am fortunate to be able to experience my Camino any time of year. I am again fortunate to not need a set duration, but for the sake of planning I am using 4-5 weeks for the entire trip from the USA and return home. I estimate 2-3 days pre-Camino, 3 days post-Camino, and several rest days along the route.

*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.
*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.
*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.
*I am afraid of bedbugs.
*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.
*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
*A mix of lodging along the route is fine. I am ok with anything from an MA to a hotel.

The areas where guidance at this juncture is most needed relate to route, season, weather, and bedbugs.
These are my priorities, at least for now, in order:
1. Avoid routes / seasons that will be hot & sunny with little shelter from the sun.
2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.
3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
5. Recommendations for best date range to begin, based upon the above.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.

To the reader - I know it seems I am looking for a perfect just-for-me pilgrimage. I sincerely hope I'm not. I am a person who, for some odd reason, needs to assemble much information before taking a leap.

After rereading my post, I am aware that I am asking much of you. Please, if you are moved to do so, provide whatever advice you chose to share. If not, dear pilgrim, please do not be burdened by my request.

Until we meet!
I have walked different Caminos for the last 15 years. I am 69. I will try to give you my best advice, based on my experiences.

1. Mid Sept. or mid April will be good starting times. Start in Pamplona: Best place to start.
2. CF is mostly a very easy walk, with lots of places to stay, and lots of hamlets/small towns for rest, coffee and accomodations.
3. Ditto for the CF.
4. The CF has various terrain, very beautiful. Most of it is easy walking. Take your time.
5. See pt. 1.
6. As for paper, I don't use it. I use the Wise Pilgrim CF app. It has all I need. Also good for planning.
7. I have never seen a bedbug in Spain in 15 years of walking Caminos. I mostly stay in albergues, bc of cooking together with others, community etc.

Take it slow. Even at 65, it may be a life-changing adventure for you. Based on your sensible writing, I believe it will be.

PS: Set off enough time. I recommend 6 weeks, so you can smell the roses and take some rest now and then.

Buen Camino!
 
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I am a 65 yr old woman from the USA planning my first Camino. I will be solo. After researching routes, weather, lodging, food, communities, etc. for the past 2 weeks, I find that I am in need of advice from pilgrims who have some experience.

May I take a few minutes of your time to introduce myself? I will then outline areas where I am needing advice, which I know you will provide in good spirit, as called to do so.

I feel drawn to a pilgrimage where I can be in joyful community with others and also have ample opportunity for solitary walking meditation. I wish to truly enjoy and be enjoyed by people and places along the way. Walking through larger cities will likely deplete my spirit for a time, so I wish to, as much as possible, skirt, avoid, or minimize walking in larger cities.

I am fortunate to be able to experience my Camino any time of year. I am again fortunate to not need a set duration, but for the sake of planning I am using 4-5 weeks for the entire trip from the USA and return home. I estimate 2-3 days pre-Camino, 3 days post-Camino, and several rest days along the route.

*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.
*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.
*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.
*I am afraid of bedbugs.
*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.
*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
*A mix of lodging along the route is fine. I am ok with anything from an MA to a hotel.

The areas where guidance at this juncture is most needed relate to route, season, weather, and bedbugs.
These are my priorities, at least for now, in order:
1. Avoid routes / seasons that will be hot & sunny with little shelter from the sun.
2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.
3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
5. Recommendations for best date range to begin, based upon the above.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.

To the reader - I know it seems I am looking for a perfect just-for-me pilgrimage. I sincerely hope I'm not. I am a person who, for some odd reason, needs to assemble much information before taking a leap.

After rereading my post, I am aware that I am asking much of you. Please, if you are moved to do so, provide whatever advice you chose to share. If not, dear pilgrim, please do not be burdened by my request.

Until we meet!
Hello Fellow Pilgrim. I was nearly 72 yrs female and experienced mountain hiker when I walked for the first time and did the Frances in Sept-Oct 2022. I started in SJPP and made some paid reservations where I wanted to stay, breaking my first few days until I built up the endurance, so basically from Pamplona onwards I managed between 18-26 km a day. I found that time of the year very pleasant until I reached the Meseta and there I faced some very hot days, but were manageable armed with plenty of water with electrolytes, orange, banana + walnuts for snacks on those middle of day to be enjoyed under the shade of a tree by the side of the road.

Starting in September it got cool reaching the top of the Pyrenees. Yes, a good hat it is highly recommended, you may also use UV shirts that cover your arms but by all means listen to your body regardless that you want to make it to the town 12 km away when spending the night at the next albergue will do yet by the time I reached Galicia the nights were getting cooler and at times cold. So guide yourself accordingly. Avoid the blankets on the municipal albergues as those are not washed regularly.

The best source of paper maps will be SJPP and when you get your credencial at the Pilgrim office, they will hand you sheets where they list the public and private albergues as well as sheet showing you the elevation gains & drops along the way, which together with the John Brierly guide which were invaluable to me as I was not using the various phone apps regularly used. I did get a SIM card for my phone which allowed me to call ahead to the town I was targetting for the next day.

I hope I have provided you some insights ... Buen Camino.
 
If you go early enough in the spring to avoid the April/Easter crush, the balance between company and solitude is not so hard to strike. And it doesn't get hot. I love walking in March.

As as someone said, a reflective umbrella is a Godsend if you are sensitive to heat and/or direct sun. Having that frees you up to wslk where the camino goes, sun or shade.
 
Am 67 and heading out to Camino #5 in 10 days. Have planned 7 weeks, but could have added on 1 more week. I like shorter days, and a mix of accomodations. Have walked the Portuguese in April and thought it was quite nice. Had allowed 2 weeks, but wish I had planned on 3. We walked the coastal route and then switched to the central. Next time, will only do the central route.
Have been on the Camino Francis 2 times in Sept.- Oct. and once in April-May. Found the spring to be a lot cooler than fall, and certainly more beautiful, though fall has a certain beauty to it too. There were only a couple of afternoons where a UHV umbrella would have been nice to have, so got one for my upcoming Camino.
Have never seen a bedbug or had a bite. I check EVERY mattress. Many albergues have bedbug proof mattresses and metal frames. Easy to see in their photos.
My pack is about 6kg and I usually always carry it. Last year, about 2 weeks into my Camino, after a bad cold and still recovering, sent a small bag ahead with a couple of kg in it. Found I really liked having a pack that only weighed 3-4kg. and simply continued sending a small bag ahead each day. May do this again, but it is something that doesn't need to be planned. You can decide each day.
Have never gotten a blister, cause I double sock, but use cheap nylon hose under my socks.
I like boots, and wear them all year round as my job is being a walking tour guide. Boots work well on asphalt, gravel, cobblestones, mud and puddles.
If cities are a problem, stay in the towns that are right outside of the city, and then simply walk through them early in the morning. I like seeing the crews cleaning the streets at 06:00 and the city waking up.

My packing list:
Deuter Back Pack ACT LITE 35+10L, 1580 gr.
Meindl Hiking Boots w/Gore-tex
Meru goa comfort Sleeping Bag, 830gr,
Babimax Z-fold trekking Poles,
Meru knee-length fleece jacket, 500gr.
Altus Poncho, 340 gr.
UHV hand free umbrella, 390gr.
1 pair hiking pants, 400gr.
1 pair Merino leggings
2 light long-sleeve cotton blouses
1 turtle neck long-sleeve t-shirt
Eagle Creek black silk money belt
Hip pouch, waterproof,
2 wide-mouth metal bottles
extra pair of eyeglasses
3 pair knee socks
2 pair knee-high nylon hose
mini solar light
mini whistle
carabiner clip
Guidebook Raimond Joos, (in German)
Light, knee-length sleeveless nightgown, 125gr.
Muslin towel - 190gr.
1 camisole bra, 1 sports bra
3 pair underwear
8 plastic clothespins
10 safety pins
2 bootlaces (used to tie up sleeping bag instead of stuff sack)
Baseball cap
Pillowcase
Crocs for shower and relaxing
Pilgrim Credential from Ivar
Camino Passport/Credential Cover, from Ivar
Travel toiletries (toothpaste, travel toothbrush, shampoo, tiny bottle of oil to use on hair, body wash, q-tips) in a zip-lock bag
Small de-tangler hairbrush
First aid kit (band-aid strip, Imodium, Benadryl, Medi Nait cold pills, migraine pills) in a zip-lock bag
Bandanna cut into 1/4ths, in a zip lock bag as emergency TP
P-Style FUD in a plastic bag
4 light mesh packing bags
1 pen
I-phone & cables, plug
Ear plugs
Notebook
The weight is 6+kg minus the clothing I am wearing
Used NO Bite permethrin spray on the exterior of sleeping bag and back pack
Will be wearing one shirt, one pair of pants, one pair of socks, 1 camisole bra, pair of panties, plus my hip pack and money belt. Money belt has my bank card, ins. card, big money. Hip belt has guidebook, passport, and pilgrim pass in a plastic holder, iPhone, mints, glasses, pen. At night, my money belt goes into my hip pack and sleeps next to me. Both go to the shower with me in a plastic bag with my clean clothes and towel.
Wise Pilgrim, Camino Places,& Buen Camino apps on iPhone
 
A guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino - enrich your pilgrim experience.
Am 67 and heading out to Camino #5 in 10 days. Have planned 7 weeks, but could have added on 1 more week. I like shorter days, and a mix of accomodations. Have walked the Portuguese in April and thought it was quite nice. Had allowed 2 weeks, but wish I had planned on 3. We walked the coastal route and then switched to the central. Next time, will only do the central route.
Have been on the Camino Francis 2 times in Sept.- Oct. and once in April-May. Found the spring to be a lot cooler than fall, and certainly more beautiful, though fall has a certain beauty to it too. There were only a couple of afternoons where a UHV umbrella would have been nice to have, so got one for my upcoming Camino.
Have never seen a bedbug or had a bite. I check EVERY mattress. Many albergues have bedbug proof mattresses and metal frames. Easy to see in their photos.
My pack is about 6kg and I usually always carry it. Last year, about 2 weeks into my Camino, after a bad cold and still recovering, sent a small bag ahead with a couple of kg in it. Found I really liked having a pack that only weighed 3-4kg. and simply continued sending a small bag ahead each day. May do this again, but it is something that doesn't need to be planned. You can decide each day.
Have never gotten a blister, cause I double sock, but use cheap nylon hose under my socks.
I like boots, and wear them all year round as my job is being a walking tour guide. Boots work well on asphalt, gravel, cobblestones, mud and puddles.
If cities are a problem, stay in the towns that are right outside of the city, and then simply walk through them early in the morning. I like seeing the crews cleaning the streets at 06:00 and the city waking up.

My packing list:
Deuter Back Pack ACT LITE 35+10L, 1580 gr.
Meindl Hiking Boots w/Gore-tex
Meru goa comfort Sleeping Bag, 830gr,
Babimax Z-fold trekking Poles,
Meru knee-length fleece jacket, 500gr.
Altus Poncho, 340 gr.
UHV hand free umbrella, 390gr.
1 pair hiking pants, 400gr.
1 pair Merino leggings
2 light long-sleeve cotton blouses
1 turtle neck long-sleeve t-shirt
Eagle Creek black silk money belt
Hip pouch, waterproof,
2 wide-mouth metal bottles
extra pair of eyeglasses
3 pair knee socks
2 pair knee-high nylon hose
mini solar light
mini whistle
carabiner clip
Guidebook Raimond Joos, (in German)
Light, knee-length sleeveless nightgown, 125gr.
Muslin towel - 190gr.
1 camisole bra, 1 sports bra
3 pair underwear
8 plastic clothespins
10 safety pins
2 bootlaces (used to tie up sleeping bag instead of stuff sack)
Baseball cap
Pillowcase
Crocs for shower and relaxing
Pilgrim Credential from Ivar
Camino Passport/Credential Cover, from Ivar
Travel toiletries (toothpaste, travel toothbrush, shampoo, tiny bottle of oil to use on hair, body wash, q-tips) in a zip-lock bag
Small de-tangler hairbrush
First aid kit (band-aid strip, Imodium, Benadryl, Medi Nait cold pills, migraine pills) in a zip-lock bag
Bandanna cut into 1/4ths, in a zip lock bag as emergency TP
P-Style FUD in a plastic bag
4 light mesh packing bags
1 pen
I-phone & cables, plug
Ear plugs
Notebook
The weight is 6+kg minus the clothing I am wearing
Used NO Bite permethrin spray on the exterior of sleeping bag and back pack
Will be wearing one shirt, one pair of pants, one pair of socks, 1 camisole bra, pair of panties, plus my hip pack and money belt. Money belt has my bank card, ins. card, big money. Hip belt has guidebook, passport, and pilgrim pass in a plastic holder, iPhone, mints, glasses, pen. At night, my money belt goes into my hip pack and sleeps next to me. Both go to the shower with me in a plastic bag with my clean clothes and towel.
Wise Pilgrim, Camino Places,& Buen Camino apps on iPhone
Great list- Thank YOU!
Can I clarify... when you said ... you stated the Portuguese/Coastal route - but changed to Central Route.. yo umean changed to the Sarri route?
I wa thinking about the Sarri route... I'm travelling in mid-October -- but then I thought about doing the Coastal/Portuguese route... is ti much colder I wonder, being along the coast so much? and are you saying that you would not ever do it...the coastal route because you did
not like it.. ie- no Albergues?-- Or was it just the "time factor" I'm thinking in the Fall... I WILL get rain.. maybe it will be too cold on the Portuguese route?- any ideas...?- thx again
 
Walking through larger cities will likely deplete my spirit for a time, so I wish to, as much as possible, skirt, avoid, or minimize walking in larger cities.

The largest and most significant cities on the Camino are Pamplona, Burgos, Leon, Astorga, and Santiago itself. I would posit that those cities that rather than depleting your spirit will lift and restore it. They are are full of history and culture, and fascinating architecture, and as such, they are not to be missed. Of course, I'm only talking about the Camino Frances inasmuch as I am of the sometimes controversial opinion that the Frances is the best intro to the Camino world, and likely the most inspiring and satisfying for a first time pilgrim. By the way, I have walked in May, June, July, August and September. With the notable exception of post-Sarria, the too crowded meme often cited on this Forum (which somehow has become conventional wisdom) is . . . well, simply not the reality when you're actually there . You can walk and be as solitary as you want on the Camino Frances. Or walk everyday in conversation and interaction with others. It's your choice and wholly within your control.
 
There are several Portuguese routes, and we switched to the central route that goes up through Valenca and the Tui.
It was not cold at all. We just did not like the route that much. There was little interaction with any pilgrims, the highrises all along the beach were rather off-putting and often the route just went through towns and it would be hours before you saw the coast again. It was nice enough, but we simply decided to switch.
For infrastructure, the Camino Frances is the best and I think for a 1st timer, it may also be the best. If you want a short route, the Sarria section will be busier than the Portugues section - Valenca/Tui to Santiago. I like staying in the towns that are not as popular and thus avoids much of the crowds.
It rained a lot in Portugal in April, but it was never cold.
 
St James' Way - Self-guided 4-7 day Walking Packages, Reading to Southampton, 110 kms
My mom walked the camino at age 72 and she developed plantar fasciitis and that’s when she started getting her pack transported rather than carrying it. The only spot that was challenging for her was the descent from Alto De Perdon.

Walking through the cities is generally quick and easy. I think the only city I felt like it took awhile to get out of was maybe Burgos, but probably because I got lost.

I never encountered bed bugs and never met anyone on the Camino who encountered bed bugs.

You don’t really need maps. I had my guidebook on kindle. Physical maps are as hassle because you have to stop, take off your pack and retrieve them. Honestly the Camino Frances is so well marked I never really looked at my guidebook on my phone except to plan where I’d be likely to end ho each day.

I went in Oct-Nov and it was perfect. It was hot on the Meseta but mild temperature everywhere else except colder after Astorga.

Here is my packing list: https://marisahikes.wordpress.com/
do you have a final weight for your packing list ?? it seems like a lot of stuff to carry
 
I would posit that those cities that rather than depleting your spirit will lift and restore it. They are are full of history and culture, and fascinating architecture, and as such, they are not to be missed
As someone who hates cities as a rule, I will happily agree witb Bob on this one. The cities on the Frances are not huge - and old, full of history.
 
Marska,

I trust that you have already read several forum topics to help with your plans.

In case you missed it check this earlier but still relevant thread for various suggestions on
how to train.

Remember this is NOT a walk in the park! Just because so many pilgrims have been successful does not guarantee that all will be. Anybody any moment can fall or pull or break anything. The most common injury is the result of trying to walk too far too quickly carrying too much! Start walking slowly and very easy for the first week. Daily distances cited in the guidebooks are not sacred. Easy does it. Be a snail; slow but, determined. Consider the topography and the weather plus your health and pack weight as well as personal strength and ability to endure.

Once you are walking for a few weeks you will gain a good idea of your ability and your personal satisfaction with the journey. Perhaps then would be an appropriate time to decide to continue straight on or to stop and possibly continue at some future time.

My
kit list and tips is from the viewpoint of an older woman who often walked in autumn/winter. Perhaps you might find it useful for your planning.

Happy planning and Buen Camino.
 
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The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
I am a 65 yr old woman from the USA planning my first Camino. I will be solo. After researching routes, weather, lodging, food, communities, etc. for the past 2 weeks, I find that I am in need of advice from pilgrims who have some experience.

May I take a few minutes of your time to introduce myself? I will then outline areas where I am needing advice, which I know you will provide in good spirit, as called to do so.

I feel drawn to a pilgrimage where I can be in joyful community with others and also have ample opportunity for solitary walking meditation. I wish to truly enjoy and be enjoyed by people and places along the way. Walking through larger cities will likely deplete my spirit for a time, so I wish to, as much as possible, skirt, avoid, or minimize walking in larger cities.

I am fortunate to be able to experience my Camino any time of year. I am again fortunate to not need a set duration, but for the sake of planning I am using 4-5 weeks for the entire trip from the USA and return home. I estimate 2-3 days pre-Camino, 3 days post-Camino, and several rest days along the route.

*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.
*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.
*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.
*I am afraid of bedbugs.
*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.
*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
*A mix of lodging along the route is fine. I am ok with anything from an MA to a hotel.

The areas where guidance at this juncture is most needed relate to route, season, weather, and bedbugs.
These are my priorities, at least for now, in order:
1. Avoid routes / seasons that will be hot & sunny with little shelter from the sun.
2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.
3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
5. Recommendations for best date range to begin, based upon the above.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.

To the reader - I know it seems I am looking for a perfect just-for-me pilgrimage. I sincerely hope I'm not. I am a person who, for some odd reason, needs to assemble much information before taking a leap.

After rereading my post, I am aware that I am asking much of you. Please, if you are moved to do so, provide whatever advice you chose to share. If not, dear pilgrim, please do not be burdened by my request.

Until we meet!
If you are planning on doing the Frances and you want shorter days walking then I would plan on at least six weeks and possibly seven weeks away from home.

You will struggle to fit the Frances and travel into five weeks unless you are a youngster who likes to gallop along. Most people walk between 20-25klms per day. At 20klms per day then 800/20=40 days walking or 800/25=32 days walking, then add on rest days, travel days and a couple of days in case something comes up.

If you have extra days at the end then there are plenty of other nice things to do in Spain that could use up those days.
 
There are several Portuguese routes, and we switched to the central route that goes up through Valenca and the Tui.
It was not cold at all. We just did not like the route that much. There was little interaction with any pilgrims, the highrises all along the beach were rather off-putting and often the route just went through towns and it would be hours before you saw the coast again. It was nice enough, but we simply decided to switch.
For infrastructure, the Camino Frances is the best and I think for a 1st timer, it may also be the best. If you want a short route, the Sarria section will be busier than the Portugues section - Valenca/Tui to Santiago. I like staying in the towns that are not as popular and thus avoids much of the crowds.
It rained a lot in Portugal in April, but it was never cold.
Thanks for the details.. I’ve got to get a big map and visualize these crossover connections.. I’ve got sone Camino books coming… I’ll see if have a good map listing both Caminos-thx!
 
Start walking slowly and very easy for the first week

Can’t stress this enough. In the beginning there is the pull and pressure to “keep up with everyone” but you’ll soon find that we all even out eventually.

The first 10 days of a Camino can be a wild ride, full of folks overdoing it, pulling ligaments, spraining ankles, and in my case, contracting bronchitis and laid up in a hotel for 7 days in Pamplona. When I started up again I took things very easy, full of 7-12km days…as I got stronger I increased my mileage.
 
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€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Can’t stress this enough. In the beginning there is the pull and pressure to “keep up with everyone” but you’ll soon find that we all even out eventually.

The first 10 days of a Camino can be a wild ride, full of folks overdoing it, pulling ligaments, spraining ankles, and in my case, contracting bronchitis and laid up in a hotel for 7 days in Pamplona. When I started up again I took things very easy, full of 7-12km days…as I got stronger I increased my mileage.
Good advice…since I’ll be going in October; keeping the daily mileage reasonable/anticipating rain.
 
Pilgrims all of you - I am so very thankful for your comments. There is a lot to chew on. I have decided to either fast-track and leave for Camino ASAP or do it next spring. From comments here I think spring will be better than fall. I've also decided on CF as a route. 2 people have specifically recommended starting in Pamplona and others in SJPP so I will plan my Camino accordingly. I will add days to plan on 6 weeks. If I am faster than planned I will go out to Finnestere and back or add on Fun days at the end. Determining the route and and time of year was my goal when I asked for your kind help and I have now decided upon both. That is amazing!

I also have 2 awesome packing lists, knowledge of solar umbrellas, an idea of what to expect for weather,
Marska,

I trust that you have already read several forum topics to help with your plans.

In case you missed it check this earlier but still relevant thread for various suggestions on
how to train.

Remember this is NOT a walk in the park! Just because so many pilgrims have been successful does not guarantee that all will be. Anybody any moment can fall or pull or break anything. The most common injury is the result of trying to walk too far too quickly carrying too much! Start walking slowly and very easy for the first week. Daily distances cited in the guidebooks are not sacred. Easy does it. Be a snail; slow but, determined. Consider the topography and the weather plus your health and pack weight as well as personal strength and ability to endure.

Once you are walking for a few weeks you will gain a good idea of your ability and your personal satisfaction with the journey. Perhaps then would be an appropriate time to decide to continue straight on or to stop and possibly continue at some future time.

My
kit list and tips is from the viewpoint of an older woman who often walked in autumn/winter. Perhaps you might find it useful for your planning.

Happy planning and Buen Camino.
Thank you MSpath. Your blog is magnificent and indeed quite useful. Excellent advice. You certainly have much experience with many Caminos walked. I will be a snail.
 
Can’t stress this enough. In the beginning there is the pull and pressure to “keep up with everyone” but you’ll soon find that we all even out eventually.

The first 10 days of a Camino can be a wild ride, full of folks overdoing it, pulling ligaments, spraining ankles, and in my case, contracting bronchitis and laid up in a hotel for 7 days in Pamplona. When I started up again I took things very easy, full of 7-12km days…as I got stronger I increased my mileage.
Truenorth - do you remember where you stayed to accomplish 7-12km days? I am having trouble identifying potential lodging that will make those shorter days possible. Buen Camino. Kath
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Truenorth - do you remember where you stayed to accomplish 7-12km days? I am having trouble identifying potential lodging that will make those shorter days possible. Buen Camino. Kath

I restarted from Zizur Mayor and stayed in albergues just before alto del perdon, then Uterga, then puente la reina etc etc. I’m on the road now and I can’t list out all my accommodations. I didn’t book ahead and always found something.
 
Yes… the numbers are substantially less.. in June, July and August—it’s hot and crowded… to the point where you see 20-30 Pilgrims in front of you and behind you… October will be a bit rainy.. you should get Ivar’s Camino Frances book if you haven’t ordered it already and John B’s book- Wise Pilgrim has a Camino Frances book.. best to do your research with.
I'm starting in pamplona this year 11th may will be my 19 th experience of Camino's say every year that's last but still get the urge At 71 years young will probably only get to Astorga this year no worries have done full way many times along with nearly every every other route as well so Buen Camino to all fellow pilgrims this year enjoy and soak up the experience nothing else like it in my humble opinion.
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
This was our slow start from last year. Not sure of the distances between them all, but I think they were mostly around 10 miles/16 km until a rest day in Logrono. (5* = excellent albergue)

May 2-3 MT Pamplona Hostal Bearan 5*

May 4 W Uterga Albergue Camino del Perdón 5*

May 5 R Cirauqui Albergue Cirauqui Casa Maralotx 5*

May 6 F Estella Ágora Hostal - sleeping pods with privacy curtains, nice but stinky air freshener everywhere

May 7 SA Los Arcos Albergue Casa de la Abuela 5*

May 8 SU Viana Albergue Izar -do not recommend. very rude, no Wi-Fi at all (and lied about it), pulled a fast one on non-Spanish speaking husband, gave us an overpriced private triple room when I had booked 2 dorm beds (in Spanish).

May 9-10 MT Logrono -stayed two nights in an Airbnb-type place.

Another way to get a break from people is to take the side routes when available. On our second day we went a few km out of the way to visit the church at Eunate, and didn’t see a soul going, coming or while there. Ditto for later in the trip when we went to the monastery at Samos. It’s a much longer detour, but we saw almost no one on the trail.
 
Thank you MSpath. Your blog is magnificent and indeed quite useful. Excellent advice.
Encouraging advice from @mspath gave me the confidence and knowlege I needed for a first Camino. I didn't overpack but had all I needed, and I had a good sense of what to expect. I even saw and greeted her in the halls of the Roncesvalles albergue. 😀
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
Am 67 and heading out to Camino #5 in 10 days. Have planned 7 weeks, but could have added on 1 more week. I like shorter days, and a mix of accomodations. Have walked the Portuguese in April and thought it was quite nice. Had allowed 2 weeks, but wish I had planned on 3. We walked the coastal route and then switched to the central. Next time, will only do the central route.
Have been on the Camino Francis 2 times in Sept.- Oct. and once in April-May. Found the spring to be a lot cooler than fall, and certainly more beautiful, though fall has a certain beauty to it too. There were only a couple of afternoons where a UHV umbrella would have been nice to have, so got one for my upcoming Camino.
Have never seen a bedbug or had a bite. I check EVERY mattress. Many albergues have bedbug proof mattresses and metal frames. Easy to see in their photos.
My pack is about 6kg and I usually always carry it. Last year, about 2 weeks into my Camino, after a bad cold and still recovering, sent a small bag ahead with a couple of kg in it. Found I really liked having a pack that only weighed 3-4kg. and simply continued sending a small bag ahead each day. May do this again, but it is something that doesn't need to be planned. You can decide each day.
Have never gotten a blister, cause I double sock, but use cheap nylon hose under my socks.
I like boots, and wear them all year round as my job is being a walking tour guide. Boots work well on asphalt, gravel, cobblestones, mud and puddles.
If cities are a problem, stay in the towns that are right outside of the city, and then simply walk through them early in the morning. I like seeing the crews cleaning the streets at 06:00 and the city waking up.

My packing list:
Deuter Back Pack ACT LITE 35+10L, 1580 gr.
Meindl Hiking Boots w/Gore-tex
Meru goa comfort Sleeping Bag, 830gr,
Babimax Z-fold trekking Poles,
Meru knee-length fleece jacket, 500gr.
Altus Poncho, 340 gr.
UHV hand free umbrella, 390gr.
1 pair hiking pants, 400gr.
1 pair Merino leggings
2 light long-sleeve cotton blouses
1 turtle neck long-sleeve t-shirt
Eagle Creek black silk money belt
Hip pouch, waterproof,
2 wide-mouth metal bottles
extra pair of eyeglasses
3 pair knee socks
2 pair knee-high nylon hose
mini solar light
mini whistle
carabiner clip
Guidebook Raimond Joos, (in German)
Light, knee-length sleeveless nightgown, 125gr.
Muslin towel - 190gr.
1 camisole bra, 1 sports bra
3 pair underwear
8 plastic clothespins
10 safety pins
2 bootlaces (used to tie up sleeping bag instead of stuff sack)
Baseball cap
Pillowcase
Crocs for shower and relaxing
Pilgrim Credential from Ivar
Camino Passport/Credential Cover, from Ivar
Travel toiletries (toothpaste, travel toothbrush, shampoo, tiny bottle of oil to use on hair, body wash, q-tips) in a zip-lock bag
Small de-tangler hairbrush
First aid kit (band-aid strip, Imodium, Benadryl, Medi Nait cold pills, migraine pills) in a zip-lock bag
Bandanna cut into 1/4ths, in a zip lock bag as emergency TP
P-Style FUD in a plastic bag
4 light mesh packing bags
1 pen
I-phone & cables, plug
Ear plugs
Notebook
The weight is 6+kg minus the clothing I am wearing
Used NO Bite permethrin spray on the exterior of sleeping bag and back pack
Will be wearing one shirt, one pair of pants, one pair of socks, 1 camisole bra, pair of panties, plus my hip pack and money belt. Money belt has my bank card, ins. card, big money. Hip belt has guidebook, passport, and pilgrim pass in a plastic holder, iPhone, mints, glasses, pen. At night, my money belt goes into my hip pack and sleeps next to me. Both go to the shower with me in a plastic bag with my clean clothes and towel.
Wise Pilgrim, Camino Places,& Buen Camino apps on iPhone
I have the Joos book translated into English. I really like it.
Can’t stress this enough. In the beginning there is the pull and pressure to “keep up with everyone” but you’ll soon find that we all even out eventually.

The first 10 days of a Camino can be a wild ride, full of folks overdoing it, pulling ligaments, spraining ankles, and in my case, contracting bronchitis and laid up in a hotel for 7 days in Pamplona. When I started up again I took things very easy, full of 7-12km days…as I got stronger I increased my mileage.
Great advice!
I often got asked where and when I started and I could see their minds calculating how "fast" I am. When they say, "Oh you're really taking your time" (meaning: You're slow or don't walk *far enough* every day), I respond, "Yes, I want to take as much time on the Camino as I can." Not to say everybody or even most pilgrims are competitive, but this is another reason why I really love walking alone. I don't have to slow down or catch up to anybody and I can sit and watch storks for an hour if I want, or only walk 6K if I find an interesting place to stay before my tentative destination that day. And you're right, lots of pilgrims - especially younger ones, it seems like, overdo it and get injured or sick toward the beginning. I do always tend to catch a cold somewhere along the way anyway and it's good to have a cushion so you can rest.
 
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Thank you Henrythedog! You would not be discouraged on this route due to the large number of people?
I wouldn't worry about the large number of people on the Frances, especially if you are walking before Sarria. Even after Sarria, there are strategies that can be adopted to reduce the number of people one walks with (stopping each day between the places most commonly recommended in guide books and/or starting walking earlier or later than the "crowds" and/or walking off-season). Or one could divert from the Camino Frances to the Camino Invierno and miss the busiest section of the Frances.

In general, my advice to first time pilgrims is to take the Frances or Portugues over less-walked routes. For a first time pilgrim it is easier to adopt strategies to give yourself the time for solitary walking you would like than to figure out strategies for dealing with the lack of infrastructure you may need. All that infrastructure = flexibility. Flexibility that enables you to find the other things you are looking for (including solitary walking).
 
A guide to speaking Spanish on the Camino - enrich your pilgrim experience.
I walked my first CFrances in 2018 at 64. 35 days of walking was a very comfortable pace for me. No blisters. No bedbugs. Apparently a lot of pilgrims but 90% of the time I saw no one in front of me or behind me for hours on end, each day. Always found a place to stay without booking ahead. Don’t let fear and preconceived notions get in your way. What I experienced was just a profound sense of gratitude every step of the way. Buen Camino!
 
I am a 65 yr old woman from the USA planning my first Camino. I will be solo. After researching routes, weather, lodging, food, communities, etc. for the past 2 weeks, I find that I am in need of advice from pilgrims who have some experience.

May I take a few minutes of your time to introduce myself? I will then outline areas where I am needing advice, which I know you will provide in good spirit, as called to do so.

I feel drawn to a pilgrimage where I can be in joyful community with others and also have ample opportunity for solitary walking meditation. I wish to truly enjoy and be enjoyed by people and places along the way. Walking through larger cities will likely deplete my spirit for a time, so I wish to, as much as possible, skirt, avoid, or minimize walking in larger cities.

I am fortunate to be able to experience my Camino any time of year. I am again fortunate to not need a set duration, but for the sake of planning I am using 4-5 weeks for the entire trip from the USA and return home. I estimate 2-3 days pre-Camino, 3 days post-Camino, and several rest days along the route.

*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.
*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.
*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.
*I am afraid of bedbugs.
*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.
*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
*A mix of lodging along the route is fine. I am ok with anything from an MA to a hotel.

The areas where guidance at this juncture is most needed relate to route, season, weather, and bedbugs.
These are my priorities, at least for now, in order:
1. Avoid routes / seasons that will be hot & sunny with little shelter from the sun.
2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.
3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
5. Recommendations for best date range to begin, based upon the above.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.

To the reader - I know it seems I am looking for a perfect just-for-me pilgrimage. I sincerely hope I'm not. I am a person who, for some odd reason, needs to assemble much information before taking a leap.

After rereading my post, I am aware that I am asking much of you. Please, if you are moved to do so, provide whatever advice you chose to share. If not, dear pilgrim, please do not be burdened by my request.

Until we meet!
Hola

*I am confident that with rest days I can complete a physically easy to moderate route. A major limitation is walking in the hot sun. Many years ago I was hospitalized with sunstroke and since then I have a low tolerance for exertion under hot, sunny conditions.

Plan to walk in Spring or Autumn.
Start walking in late April or early October.

*When possible, especially if the route is physically more demanding, I wish to keep the km/day on the low side. I'm in no hurry.

How long one can walk is an individual thing.
You could practice by putting on a backpack and fill it with things so it weight 10% of your body weight. Go for some walks and get a feel of what is comfortable for you.
Most people walk around 4-5 km/hour in normal landscape and when walking uphill it can be 2-3 km/hour.
In general people tend to walk around 18-25 km/day on the Caminos.

*I am an experienced multi-week backpacker but that was over 20yrs ago; i.e., I have a lot of the knowledge needed but I am sad to say that strength & endurance is less than it once was.

Start practicing to build up muscles.
The first weeks will be hard for the body but you will become stronger both in body as well as experience and spirit.

*I am afraid of bedbugs.
No one likes them but there is a chance that one will meet them on the Camino.
Some people use Permethrin, but part of avoid them is to examine the place you will sleep.
Is the place in general clean or not?
How does the beds look?
Use common sense and if in doubt, then find another place to sleep.

*I am a minimal packer and confident carrying my backpack. For the sake of planning I will carry my pack.

You can always change your mind along the way as there are backpack services that cost around 5 euro to transport your bag to the next sleeping place.


*My Spanish is not good. I plan to refresh and practice but I am not confident of progress beyond basic prior to Camino. Once immersed I will pick up fairly quickly.
You will meet a lot of other pilgrims that will help you if there are language problems.
Communicating with fingers and a smile will solve 50% (or more) of any situation.

*A mix of lodging along the route is fine. I am ok with anything from an MA to a hotel.
You got Albergues, hostals, hotels, BB and so on.

The areas where guidance at this juncture is most needed relate to route, season, weather, and bedbugs.
These are my priorities, at least for now, in order:

1. Avoid routes / seasons that will be hot & sunny with little shelter from the sun.

Do Camino Frances – it has most infrastructure and you will meet a lot of people.

2. Avoid the most physically demanding routes.

Do Camino Frances – start in either Roncesvalles or Pamplona.

3. A route(s) most likely to balance sharing time and solitude.
4. A route(s) where the landscape is beautiful/attractive/pleasing.
5. Recommendations for best date range to begin, based upon the above.
6. Where to find excellent, detailed paper maps (I will also use app's, gps, etc)
7. Are bedbugs just a fact of life in a municipal albergue? Talk to me about these critters and best way to avoid exposure.

Buen Camino
Lettinggo
 
I will be a snail
Very wise! And never mind what others think or say.

About accommodation, my own strong preference is to wing it. Occasionally I'll book, if there's a predictable bottleneck and I plan to walk a long day to get there (like Roncesvalles and Zubiri these days, for example). The one time I walked that stretch ofvthe Francés, in 2015, I didn't book either but probably would now.

Also, take advantage of parochial albergues. These have something special to offer that the more comercialized and secular camino just doesn't have.

I even saw and greeted her in the halls of the Roncesvalles albergue
Lucky you!
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Pilgrims all of you - I am so very thankful for your comments. There is a lot to chew on. I have decided to either fast-track and leave for Camino ASAP or do it next spring. From comments here I think spring will be better than fall. I've also decided on CF as a route. 2 people have specifically recommended starting in Pamplona and others in SJPP so I will plan my Camino accordingly. I will add days to plan on 6 weeks. If I am faster than planned I will go out to Finnestere and back or add on Fun days at the end. Determining the route and and time of year was my goal when I asked for your kind help and I have now decided upon both. That is amazing!

I also have 2 awesome packing lists, knowledge of solar umbrellas, an idea of what to expect for weather,
You have chosen wisely, IMHO.

Traveling to Pamplona is also much easier than stressing to find your way to SJPP. Unnecessary. SJPP is just a village in France without meaning, if you don't have to climb up and down the Pyrenees mountain range.

I would start in Pamplona: It is a nice peaceful first day walk to Alto del Perdon, albeit a step descent from there to Uterga, where you can stay for the night (17 kms). You can also try to book before, in Zariquegui, on the way up to Alto del Perdon. The reason for starting in Pamplona in stead of SJPP is the long steep climb over the Pyrenees (28 kms, unless you can book a bed in busy Orrison halfway): It is by far the hardest day(s) on the CF, and not fun the first day. Many have ruined their Caminos by overdoing that/those day(s).

Get yourself an app on your phone, so you know where you can stay, maps, distances, etc. I myself use the Wisepilgrim CF app, which I have found perfect for all this and other things. Bring with you a good power bank, so you can charge it in your albergues, and recharge your phone while you walk (not leaving your phone unattended).

Remember: There are no fixed starting points: Your Camino starts where you start. Period.

Edit: You are now already a pilgrim, since you have started the process. You will have a time of your life as you walk across Spain. The CF is a miracle waiting to be experienced. Take your time.

Week 1: All is new, but you learn as you go, also from other pilgrims. You make new friends, some for life.
Week 2: You understand how things work on the Camino. You are more confident, and you are stronger.
Week 3 and onwards: You are a Camino veteran. Your body has become much stronger: You can walk longer than ever, if you want to: But do not rush it: Live in the now and enjoy your life. Reflect.
 
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Well, I do not read Spanish well, but I like to look at the albergues (I like to see the photos to get a bit of the feel of the place) and then go to their websites or FB pages, or look at them on my Wise Pilgrim app or on booking dot com or in my guide books.
 
3rd Edition. More content, training & pack guides avoid common mistakes, bed bugs etc
So for the Camino Frances starting in (Pamplona ?) late September/ October. or April/May. Good. Timeframe for CF decided.
What about the Portugese route?


I hope for you NO blisters! I'd be interested in hearing how you came to chose that particular route, if you would like to share.
Starting in Pamplona in April has a couple of advantages...you skip the trek over the Pyrenees
and the treacherous rocky part into Zubiri, The climb from SJPP really wasn't all that bad if you have trained for elevation, and you have the opportunity to stop in Orrison the first day....I like early April as you will have lots of spring flowers and green pastures.in the fall its brown and there seem to be a lot more flies... The Meseta after Burgos will be a challenge if you want to avoid sun, almost no shade all the way to Leon...but my favorite part of the Frances...

As for the Portuguese Coastal I found it an easy hike, (I'm 67) and the Variente Espiritual addition was a great alternative...the route has many flat days as it's along the coast, but its expensive real estate so lots of development and not much time in forrests...I plan the Portuguese interior next, a bit harder but greener I hope..here a a couple of photos day 1 from SJPP...
 

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Starting in Pamplona in April has a couple of advantages...you skip the trek over the Pyrenees
and the treacherous rocky part into Zubiri, The climb from SJPP really wasn't View attachment 144500 all that bad if you have trained for elevation, and you have the opportunity to stop in Orrison the first day....I like early April as you will have lots of spring flowers and green pastures.in the fall its brown and there seem to be a lot more flies... The Meseta after Burgos will be a challenge if you want to avoid sun, almost no shade all the way to Leon...but my favorite part of the Frances...
As for the Portuguese Coastal I found it an easy hike, (I'm 67) and the Variente Espiritual addition was a great alternative...the route has many flat days as it's along the coast, but its expensive real estate so lots of development and not much time in forrests...I plan the Portuguese interior next, a bit harder but greener I hope..here a a couple of photos day 1 from SJPP...View attachment 144502View attachment 144503
Wonderful pics! Thank you!
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!

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